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Title: The Greatest Highway in the World

Author: New York Central Railroad Company

Release date: January 4, 2009 [eBook #27701]
                Most recently updated: January 4, 2021

Language: English

Credits: E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, David Cortesi, and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)


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Transcriber's note:

      The footnote to the first entry says that in the train
      schedules, times from noon to midnight are shown in
      "dark-face type." In this plain-text edition that cannot
      be done, so the letters "p" and "a" have been appended
      to each time to indicate AM and PM hours.

      Minor typographical errors have been corrected: employes
      to employees on p. 1, 129, and 130; nagivation to
      navigation on p. 48; conferation to confederation on
      p. 46. Inconsistent hyphenation in the original has been
      retained.

      Owing to the method used to scan this work, in a few
      cases the first or last letters of a line were lost and
      had to be found from other sources or inferred from
      context. Where an inference is not certain, the presumed
      missing letters are in parentheses with a question mark,
      for example "p(art?)". In each of the numbers in the
      table on page 130 ("Passengers carried annually," etc.)
      the final digit cannot be determined and has been
      replaced with 0.





THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE WORLD

Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information of the Towns,
Cities and Country passed through between New York and Chicago
via The New York Central Lines

Illustrated

Based on the
Encyclopaedia Britannica





                                FOREWORD


In furtherance of giving the utmost service to the public, the New York
Central Lines asked the editors of the Encyclopædia Britannica to
prepare this booklet descriptive of and vivifying the historical
development of what has been termed "The Greatest Highway in the World."

It is presented to you in the hope that it may prove a pleasant
companion on a journey over our Lines. The information will afford a new
appreciation of the historical significance and industrial importance of
the cities, towns and country which the New York Central Lines serve.

The New York Central Lines enter twelve states and serve territory
containing 51,530,784 inhabitants or 50.3 per cent of the nation's
population. This rich and busy territory produces 64 per cent of the
country's manufactured products and mines a similar proportion of its
coal.

This system does approximately 10 per cent of the railroad
transportation business of the United States, although its main-track
mileage is only 6 per cent. In other words the business it handles
exceeds that of the average railroad, mile for mile, by nearly 100 per
cent. The New York Central carries 52 per cent of all through passengers
between New York and Chicago, the remaining 48 per cent being divided
among five other lines. The freight traffic of the New York Central
Lines in 1920 was greater than that carried by all the railroads of
France and England combined.

The scenes that stretch before the eyes of passengers on these Lines are
rich with historic interest. Few persons know that the second settlement
in the United States was at Albany and that it antedated Plymouth by
several years. Probably fewer persons know that the first United States
flag was carried in battle at Fort Stanwix, now the city of Rome, N.Y.
We hope that the reader will discover in the following pages more than
one historic shrine which he will wish to visit.

It has been said that the history of a country's civilization is the
history of its highways. Certainly the development of a great system
such as the New York Central is an important element in the progress and
prosperity of the country which it serves. This railroad is, in fact, a
public institution, and it will prosper to the extent that it gives
_service_ to the public.

The New York Central Lines have the initial advantage that they follow
the great natural routes along which the first trails were blazed by the
red men, and are almost free from grades, sharp curves and other
hindrances to comfortable and efficient transportation. Thus the road
owes its superiority primarily to the fact that it lends itself to a
maximum degree of efficiency.

But _service_ as it is conceived by the New York Central, involves many
aspects. One is the careful provision for the comfort and convenience of
passengers; another is adequate and efficient facilities for serving the
interests of shippers. In other words, New York Central _service_ means
not only fast and luxurious passenger trains, but also the rapid
handling of freight. To give such service requires the highest class of
equipment--the best rails, the finest cars, the most powerful
locomotives, etc.--but it also requires an operating force of loyal,
highly trained employees. In both respects the New York Central Lines
excel.

The inspiring record of the system's growth through public approval and
patronage is fundamentally a tribute to the _service_ rendered,
constantly advanced and developed in pace with public requirements. The
accompanying booklet is in one sense an expression of past achievement,
but it is also an earnest of greater accomplishment to come.




                           NEW YORK TO ALBANY


NEW YORK, Pop. 5,261,151. Grand Central Terminal. (Train 51 leaves
8:31a; No. 3, 8:46a; No. 41, 1:01p; No. 25, 2:46p; No. 19, 5:31p.
Eastbound: train 6 arrives 9:22a; No. 26, 9:40a; No. 16, 4:00p; No. 22,
5:25p.)[1]

    [1. Throughout this handbook the time is given at which trains are
    scheduled to leave or pass through the cities or towns mentioned.
    From New York to Chicago, Train No. 51 is the Empire State
    Express; No. 3, the Chicago Express; No. 41, The Number
    Forty-one; No. 25, the Twentieth Century, and No. 19, the Lake
    Shore Limited. In the reverse route, from Chicago to New York,
    No. 6 is the Fifth Avenue Special; No. 26 is the Twentieth
    Century; No. 16, the New York and New England Special, and No.
    22, the Lake Shore Limited. The time given is Eastern Standard
    Time at all points east of Toledo, and Central Standard Time,
    which is one hour slower, at Toledo and all points west. (When
    Daylight Saving Time is adopted during the summer it is one hour
    faster than _Standard_ time, but all time given in this booklet
    is Standard time.) The time between 12.01 o'clock midnight and
    12.00 o'clock noon is indicated by light face type; between 12.01
    o'clock noon and 12.00 o'clock midnight by dark face type. The
    use of an asterisk (*) indicates places recommended as especially
    worth visiting. Population figures are those of the 1920 U.S.
    Census.]

Fifty years ago when Commodore Vanderbilt began the first Grand Central
Station--depot, they called it, in the language of the day--he made one
error of judgment. His choice of a site proved to be magnificently
right, though he selected a spot that was practically open country, then
technically known as 42nd St. The story goes--it is a typically American
story--that his friends laughed at him, remarking that a person might as
well walk to Boston or Albany as go away up to 42nd St. to take a train
for those cities. But the people did come, and they admired the
commodore's new station, which is perhaps not surprising, since the
commodore had set himself to build the greatest terminal in the world.
Many Americans considered the new "depot" as only second to the capitol
at Washington, and it served as an excellent show place when visitors
came to town. Europe might have its cathedrals, but it had no Grand
Central Station!

The commodore's one mistake lay in thinking that his fine new station
would last a century. Within ten years an addition had to be built; in
1898 it had to be entirely remodeled and enlarged, and fifteen years
later it was entirely demolished to make way for the present building
which would be adequate for handling the city's ever-increasing
millions.

    There seems to be little doubt that the city of N.Y. and its
    environs has become within the last decade larger even than London.
    The population of greater London (including all the separate
    administrative entities within the Metropolitan Police District) is
    estimated at 7,435,379. Jersey City, Hoboken, and the other N.J.
    cities on the west, as well as Yonkers, Mt. Vernon, New Rochelle,
    etc., on the north, although politically detached, are included in
    the "city" of N.Y. in the larger sense, their political detachment
    being in a certain sense accidental. Including these, the population
    of N.Y. area corresponding to the Metropolitan London area is
    7,583,607. The population of N.Y. City proper is 5,261,151. The
    London area comparable with this, viz., the part of London governed
    by the London County Council has a population of 5,028,974.
    Comparing the areas of the two--N.Y.C. with 327 sq. miles and London
    with 692 sq. miles, it is hard to understand how the respective
    populations should approximate each other so nearly until it is
    remembered that New York grows perpendicularly instead of
    horizontally, that it usurps more air rather than more land. In some
    of the downtown business streets, such as Wall or Rector, the
    buildings tower so high above the narrow thoroughfare that they form
    a kind of deep canyon along which the wind is drawn as through a
    tunnel.

    In the colonial period Philadelphia was the most important city,
    commercially, politically and socially, while just before the War of
    Independence, Boston, with a population of 20,000 was the most
    flourishing town in all the colonies. During the Revolutionary War,
    N.Y.C. had fallen to a population of 10,000 and in 1790 it had
    barely gained a position of leadership with 33,131, but by 1840
    N.Y.C. had grown to be a city of 313,000 while Philadelphia had
    95,000 and Boston 93,000.

    [Illustration: Commodore Vanderbilt

    Cornelius Vanderbilt (1794-1877) at the age of 16 bought a
    sailboat in which he carried farm produce and passengers between
    Staten Island, where he lived, and N.Y. He was soon doing so
    profitable a business that in 1817, realizing the superiority of
    steam over sailing vessels, he was able to sell his sloops and
    schooners, and became the captain of a steam ferry between N.Y.
    and New Brunswick. His projects grew enormously. He inaugurated
    steamship lines between N.Y. and San Francisco, N.Y. and Havre,
    and other places. In 1857-1862 he sold his steamships and turned
    his attention more and more to the development of railways, with
    the result that before his death he had built up and was a
    majority share owner in the N.Y. Central & Hudson River, the Lake
    Shore and Michigan Southern, the Harlem, and the Michigan Central
    & Canada Southern railways, and had holdings in many others. He
    died at N.Y. in 1877.]

Today one of the most remarkable features of New York is the Grand
Central Terminal. The exterior finish is granite and Indiana lime-stone;
the style somewhat Doric, modified by the French Renaissance. Over the
entrance to the main building is a great arch surmounted by a statuary
group wherein Mercury, symbolizing the glory of commerce, is supported
by Minerva and Hercules who represent mental and moral force.

Within, the main concourse of the station proper is an immense room with
a floor space of 37,625 sq. ft. where the New York City Hall might be
set and yet leave room to spare. It is covered with a vaulted ceiling
125 ft. high, painted a soft cloudy blue and starred over with the
constellations of heaven. Great dome-shaped windows, three each at the
east and west ends, furnish light.

    [Illustration: The Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal]

The entire site of the Grand Central Terminal comprises 30 blocks and 80
acres which above the surface are covered with a great variety of
buildings, making almost a city in itself. Moreover, there is direct
subway entrance to three large hotels, capable of housing as many as
10,000 persons, and to all these conveniences is added that of
comfortable temperature throughout the terminal, no matter how cold the
weather.

    [Illustration: Map of New York City, 1775

    This survey, made in the winter of 1775, shows the city proper as
    it existed during the Revolutionary War. Places indicated by the
    lettering are described under the original as follows: A, Fort
    George. B, Batteries [at the two points of the island]. C,
    Military Hospital [south of Pearl St.]. D, Secretary's Office
    [near Fort George]. E, [Not Shown]. F, Soldiers' Barracks [at
    extreme right]. G, Ship Yards [lower right hand corner]. H, City
    Hall [Broad and Wall streets, site of present Sub-Treasury
    building]. I, Exchange. J, K, Jail and Workhouse [both situated on
    the "intended square or common," now City Hall Square]. L, College
    [Church and Murray streets; this was King's College, now Columbia
    University]. M, Trinity Church [the present Trinity was built on
    1839-46, though it stands on the site of the old church built in
    1696]. N, St. George's Chapel. O, St. Paul's Chapel [built in
    1756, the oldest edifice still standing in N.Y.C.]. P to Z,
    various churches.]

    As distinctively "New York" as the sky-scrapers, are the hotels and
    apartment houses. Of the latter, there are more than in any other
    city in the world, and the number of persons who are giving up their
    houses and adopting this manner of life is steadily increasing. The
    first thing, in fact, that impresses a visitor on his arrival is the
    seemingly endless amount of buildings adopted for transients. A few
    of the largest hotels have space for several thousand persons at one
    time.

    [Illustration: New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671

    The point of land in the foreground is now known as the Battery.
    The large building inside the stockade is a church. In the middle
    foreground is a gallows. The hills in the background form the
    approach to the present Morningside Heights.]

The old station in 1903-'12 was torn down, brick by brick, while at the
same time the new building was being erected--and all without disturbing
the traffic or hindering the 75,000 to 125,000 people that passed
through the station each day. This was an extraordinary engineering
feat, for not only were 3,000,000 yards of earth and rock taken out to
provide for the underground development, but hundreds of tons of
dynamite were used for blasting. Among the improvements introduced in
the new station are ramps instead of stairways, the division of
out-going from in-going traffic and the elimination of the cold
trainshed. The substitution of electricity for steam as a motive power
in the metropolitan area made possible the reclamation of Park Avenue
and the cross streets from 45th St. to 46th St.--about 20 blocks in
all--by depressing and covering the tracks.

At 56th St. the tracks begin to rise from the long tunnel and pass
through the tenement district of the upper East Side. The side streets
seem filled with nothing but children and vegetable carts, while along
the pavements shrill women with shawls over their heads are bargaining
for food with street-vendors. As the railroad tracks rise higher still,
we run on the level with the upper-story windows out of which the
tenants lean and gossip with one another.

    [Illustration: The Jumel Mansion, New York City]


4 M. HARLEM STATION (125th St.). (Train 51 passes 8:41a; No 3, 8:57a;
No. 41, 1:12p; No. 25, 2:56p; No. 19, 5:41p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
9:11a; No. 26 9:29a; No. 16, 3:49p; No. 22, 5:25p.)

Old Harlem was "Nieuw Haerlem," a settlement established in 1658 by Gov.
Peter Stuyvesant in the northeastern part of Manhattan Island. It
existed for 200 years but is now lost under modern Harlem, which centers
about 125th St. In this neighborhood to the west occurred the battle of
Harlem Heights--a lively skirmish fought Sept. 16, 1776, opposite the
west front of the present Columbia University, and resulting in a
victory for the forces of Gen. Washington, who up to that time had
suffered a number of reverses on Long Island and elsewhere. The battle
was directed by Washington from the Jumel mansion*, 160th St. and
Amsterdam Ave., the most famous house, historically, on the island of
Manhattan. It is still standing.

    [Illustration: Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler

    Peter Stuyvesant, Dutch Governor of N.Y. from 1647 to 1664 and a
    valiant member of the Reformed Church, had an intense prejudice
    against all other sects. At Flushing a Baptist cobbler, William
    Wickendam, ventured to preach "and even went with the people into
    the river and dipped them." He was fined 12,500 guilders ($5,000)
    and ordered to be banished. As he was a poor man the debt was
    remitted, but he was obliged to leave the province.]

    The house was built in 1763 by Roger Morris for his bride, Mary
    Philipse of Yonkers, for whose hand, it is said, Washington had
    been an unsuccessful suitor. The house was subsequently owned by
    John Jacob Astor and then passed into the hands of Stephen Jumel,
    a French merchant, who, with his wife Eliza, added new fame to
    the old house. They entertained here Lafayette, Louis Napoleon,
    Joseph Bonaparte and Jerome Bonaparte. Aaron Burr (1756-1836) in
    his old age, appeared at the mansion with a clergyman, and
    married Mme. Jumel, then a widow. She divorced him shortly
    afterward, and he died in poverty on Staten Island, 1836.
    Alexander Hamilton whom Burr killed in the famous duel at
    Weehawken, N.J. (July 11, 1804) owned a country place in the
    neighborhood, "Hamilton Grange," which now stands at 140th St.
    and Convent Ave.

Leaving Manhattan, that extraordinary island which Peter Minuit,
director-general of New Netherlands, bought in 1626 from the Indians for
sixty guilders' worth of goods (about $24), we cross the Harlem River to
the Borough of the Bronx, named for Jonas Bronck, the first white
settler, who made his home in 1639 near the Bronx Kills (where the
Harlem River flows into Long Island Sound).

    The original price paid for the Bronx--or a large share of it--was
    "2 gunns, 2 kettles, 2 coats, 2 shirts, 2 adzes, 1 barrel of
    cider, and 6 bitts of money." The assessed value of Manhattan
    today is $5,116,000,000 and that of the Bronx $732,000,000
    (realty).

The Hudson River Division of the New York Central turns to the left and
follows the course of the Harlem River, 7 M. long, which separates
Manhattan Island from the mainland and connects the Hudson with the East
River. On the south bank of the Harlem are Washington Heights, with the
Speedway on the immediate bank, and Fort George (near 193d Street) named
from a Revolutionary redoubt. The Speedway was built at a cost of
$3,000,000 for the special use of drivers of fast horses. On the right,
after passing the High Bridge, which carries the old Croton aqueduct,
one of the feeders of the city water supply, and the Washington Bridge,
are University Heights and (farther to the west) the township of
Fordham, where the cottage in which Edgar Allen Poe lived from 1844 to
1849 and wrote _Ulalume_ and _Annabel Lee_, is still preserved.

    New York University, on University Heights, was founded in 1832;
    the principal buildings include Gould Hall, a dormitory; the
    library, designed by Stanford White, and the Hall of Fame,
    extending around the library in the form of an open colonnade,
    500 ft long, in which are preserved the names of great Americans.


11 M. SPUYTEN DUYVIL. (Train 51 passes 8:51a; No. 3, 9:09a; No. 41,
1:23p; No. 25, 3:06p; No. 19, 5:53p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:57a; No.
26, 9:17a; No. 16, 3:37p; No. 22, 5:02p.)

Spuyten Duyvil is situated on Spuyten Duyvil Creek, celebrated by
Washington Irving, which connects the Harlem and Hudson Rivers. In
recent years the creek has been enlarged into a ship canal.

    The town and stream receive their curious name from the following
    story, according to Irving. In 1664, when the Dutch were being
    threatened by the British, Anthony van Corlear, Dutch trumpeter
    to Gov. Stuyvesant, was despatched to sound the alarm. It was a
    stormy night and the creek was impassable. Anthony "swore most
    valourously that he would swim across it 'in spite of the devil'
    (en spuyt den duyvil) but unfortunately sank forever to the
    bottom." The "duyvil" had got him. "His ghost still haunts the
    neighborhood, and his trumpet has often been heard of a stormy
    night."

Across the Hudson, along which our route now lies for nearly 150 M., can
be seen the Palisades, an extraordinary ridge of basaltic rock rising
picturesquely to a height of between 300 and 500 ft. and extending along
the west bank of the Hudson about 12 M. from a point north of Ft. Lee,
N.J., to Palisades, N.Y.

    The peculiar hexagonal jointing of the rock, which has given rise
    to the name Palisades, is an unusual geological formation; the
    only other important places where it is found are at Fingal's
    Cave in Scotland and the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. The beauty
    of the Palisades was threatened by quarrying and blasting
    operations until N.Y. and N.J. agreed to the establishment of the
    Palisades Interstate Park which comprises 36,000 acres (1,000
    acres in New Jersey and 35,000 in New York State).

    "The spacious and stately characteristics of the Hudson from the
    Palisades to the Catskills are as epical as the loveliness of the
    Rhine is lyrical. The Hudson implies a continent beyond. No
    European river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such
    state to the sea. Of all the rivers that I know, the Hudson, with
    this grandeur, has the most exquisite episodes."--George William
    Curtis.

    [Illustration: The Half Moon at Yonkers

    In September, 1609, Henry Hudson started up the Hudson in the
    "Half Moon," which attracted frequent visits from the natives
    along the route.]

To the right, just north of Spuyten Duyvil, is a high promontory, upon
which stands a lofty monument to Henry Hudson, who had his first
skirmish here with the Indians after entering N.Y. Bay in Sept. 1609.
With an excellent harbour at its mouth, and navigable waters leading 150
M. into a fertile interior, the Hudson River began to attract explorers
and settlers soon after the discovery of America. Verrazano, the
Florentine navigator, sent out by the French king, Francis I, ventured a
short distance up the Hudson in 1524, almost 100 years before the
Pilgrim Fathers, and in 1609 Henry Hudson sailing in the "Half Moon"
nearly up to the site of Albany demonstrated the extent and importance
of the river that bears his name.

    [Illustration: New York Slave-Market--About 1730

    Slaves were introduced into N.Y. as early as 1626 when the West
    India Co. (a Dutch company), which had large establishments on the
    coast of Guinea, brought negroes to Manhattan, and practiced the
    slave trade here "without remorse." It is said that in proportion
    to population N.Y. imported as many Africans as Virginia. That New
    York did not become a slave-state like Carolina was, according to
    Bancroft, "due to climate and not to the superior humanity of its
    founders. [Gov.] Stuyvesant was instructed to use every exertion
    to promote the sale of negroes. They were imported sometimes by
    way of the West Indies, often directly from Guinea, and were sold
    at auction to the highest bidder. The average price was less than
    $140." With the extension of English rule to N.Y. in 1664 the
    slave trade in this colony passed into the hands of the British.
    It is estimated that the total import of slaves into all the
    British colonies of America and the West Indies from 1680 to 1786
    was 2,130,000. The traffic was then carried on principally from
    Liverpool, London and other English ports; the entire number of
    ships sailing from these ports then engaged in the slave traffic
    was 192, and in them space was provided for the transport of
    47,146 negroes. The native chiefs on the African coasts took up
    the hunt for human beings and engaged in forays, sometimes even on
    their own subjects, for the purpose of procuring slaves to be
    exchanged for western commodities. They often set fire to a
    village by night and captured the inhabitants when trying to
    escape. Out of every lot of 100 shipped from Africa, about 17 died
    either during the passage or before the sale at Jamaica, while not
    more than 50 lived through the "seasoning" process and became
    effective plantation laborers. Slavery in N.Y. was continued till
    1827. It was then abolished by terms of an act passed by the N.Y.
    Assembly ten years earlier.]

    Henry Hudson, English navigator, made four important voyages to
    find a passage to China by the northeast or northwest route; it
    was on the third venture undertaken at the instance of the Dutch
    East India Co., that he found the Hudson, probably a greater
    discovery than the one he undertook to make. With a mixed crew of
    18 or 20 men he started on his voyage in the "Half Moon," April
    6, 1609, and soon was among the ice towards the northern part of
    Barents Sea. His men mutinied and he was forced to seek the
    passage farther south. Thus eventually he entered the fine bay of
    what is now N.Y. harbour, Sept. 3, 1609. John Fiske says: "In all
    that he attempted he failed, and yet he achieved great results
    that were not contemplated in his schemes. He started two immense
    industries, the Spitzbergen whale fisheries and the Hudson Bay
    fur trade; and he brought the Dutch to Manhattan Island. No
    realization of his dreams could have approached the astonishing
    reality which would have greeted him could he have looked through
    the coming centuries and caught a glimpse of what the voyager now
    beholds in sailing up the bay of New York." The Dutch called the
    Hudson the North River (a name which is still used) in
    contra-distinction to the Delaware which they called the South
    River.

The lower Hudson is really a fiord--a river valley into which ocean
water has been admitted by the sinking of the land, transforming a large
part of the valley into an inlet, and thus opening it to commerce as far
as Troy (about 150 M.), up to which point the river is tidal and,
therefore, partly salt. The Hudson extends above Troy for 150 M.
farther, but navigation is interrupted by shallows and swift currents.
Below Troy the fall is only five feet in a distance of 145 M. This
lower, navigable portion of the Hudson was the only feasible route
through the Atlantic highlands, and in consequence it has been one of
the most significant factors in the development of the United States.
New York City likewise owes its phenomenal development largely to this
great highway of commerce.

The invention and successful operation of the steamboat, the first line
of which was established on the Hudson by Fulton in 1807, gave early
impetus to the importance of N.Y.C., and the building of the Hudson
River R.R., one of the first successful railways, now a part of the New
York Central Lines, and the opening of the Erie Canal (1825) connecting
the Hudson with the Great Lakes and the far interior, were among other
contributory factors in the city's growth.


15 M. YONKERS, Pop. 100,226. (Train 51 passes 8:56a; No. 3, 9:15a; No.
41, 1:29p; No. 25, 3:11p; No. 19, 5:59p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 8:52a;
No. 26, 9:12a; No. 16, 3:31p, No. 22, 4:56p.)

When the Dutch founded New Netherlands, the present site of Yonkers was
occupied by an Indian village, known as Nappeckamack, or "town of the
rapid water," and a great rock near the mouth of the Nepperhan creek (to
the north of the station) was long a place of Indian Worship.

    In the early days, the Hudson River Valley from Manhattan to
    Albany was occupied by Algonquin tribes, while the central part
    of the state along the Mohawk Valley had been conquered by the
    famous Iroquois Confederation, of which the Mohawks were the most
    warlike. The Mohawks soon drove out the Mohicans, who claimed as
    their territory the east bank of the Hudson. On the whole, the
    Dutch lived peaceably with their Indian neighbors, but an attempt
    of Gov. Kieft to collect tribute from them led to an Indian war
    (1641), which resulted in the destruction of most of the outlying
    settlements. Later a treaty of alliance was made with the
    Iroquois Confederation, which protected the early settlements in
    N.Y. from those attacks which occurred so frequently elsewhere in
    this period. The treaty was renewed when the British took
    possession of New Netherlands, and lasted until the Revolutionary
    War.

The land where Yonkers now stands was part of an estate granted in 1646
by the Dutch government to Adrian Van Der Donck, the first lawyer and
historian of New Netherlands. The settlement was called the "De
Jonkheer's land" or "De Yonkeer's"--meaning the estate of the young
lord--- and afterwards Yonkers. Subsequently the tract passed into the
hands of Frederick Philipse, the "Dutch millionaire," as the English
called him, some of whom alleged that he owed a large part of his
fortune to piratical and contraband ventures. The suspicion was strong
enough to force Philipse out of the governing council of the colony, and
he returned to his manor where he died (1702) at the age of 76.

    It was even charged that he was one of the backers of Capt.
    William Kidd (1645-1701), for whose buried treasure search has
    been made along the Hudson, as well as in countless places along
    the Atlantic Coast. Capt. Kidd began the career which made him
    notorious under a commission from the British Government to
    apprehend pirates. He sailed from Plymouth, England, in May 1696,
    filled up his crew in N.Y. in the following year, and then set
    out for Madagascar, the principal rendezvous of the buccaneers.
    Deserting his ship, he threw in his lot with theirs and captured
    several rich booties. Returning to N.Y., he was arrested, sent to
    London, found guilty and hanged. Of his "treasure" about £14,000
    was recovered from his ship and from Gardner's Island, off the
    east end of Long Island. The stories of large hoards still
    undiscovered are probably mythical.

The Philipse manor house*, one of the best examples of Dutch colonial
architecture in America, erected in 1682 and enlarged in 1745, was the
second residence built by the Philipses (the other is at Tarrytown) and
is now maintained as a museum for colonial and Revolutionary relics. It
was confiscated by the legislature in 1779 in reprisal for the
suspected "Toryism" of the third Frederick Philipse, the great grandson
of the first lord of the manor and his second successor. Before being
converted into a museum it served for many years as the City Hall of
Yonkers.

    [Illustration: Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682

    This famous old house, said to be one of the best examples of
    Dutch colonial architecture in America, was built by Frederick
    Philipse, first lord of the manor of Philipsburg. It was
    confiscated by the State of New York after the Revolutionary War
    and for many years served as the City Hall of Yonkers. It is now
    a museum.]

Yonkers has some important manufactures with an annual production of
$75,000,000 and 15,000 wage earners; its output includes passenger and
freight elevators, foundry and machine shop products, refined sugar,
carpets, rugs and hats. It has one of the largest carpet factories in
the world.

The country round Yonkers is dotted with fine estates. Conspicuous to
the right, 2 M. north of the station, is the battlemented tower of
"Greystone," once the home of Samuel J. Tilden and now owned by Samuel
Untermyer, the N.Y. lawyer.

    Samuel J. Tilden (1814-1886), a lawyer and reformer, served one
    term as governor of N.Y., and was later candidate for the
    presidency against Rutherford B. Hayes. He had become famous for
    his attacks on the notorious Tweed ring of N.Y.C., and later for
    his exposure of the "Canal ring," a set of plunderers who had
    been engaged in exploiting the N.Y. canal system. He was given
    the Democratic nomination for president in recognition of his
    services as a reformer. The Republicans nominated Hayes, and the
    result was the disputed election of 1876, when two sets of
    returns were sent to Washington from the States of Florida,
    Louisiana, South Carolina and Oregon. As the Federal Constitution
    contains no provision for settling a dispute of this kind, the
    two houses of Congress agreed to the appointment of an
    extra-Constitutional Body, the Electoral Commission, which
    decided all the contests in favor of the Republican candidates.
    Tilden's friends charged that they had been made a victim of a
    political "steam roller," but he advised them to make no
    protests. Tilden left more than $2,000,000 for a library in N.Y.
    (now consolidated with the N.Y. Public Library).

Across the Hudson River from Hastings (19 M.) can be seen Indian Head,
the highest point on the Palisades, near which (about ½ M. farther
north) is the boundary between N.J. and N.Y.; from this point northward
both shores belong to N.Y.


20 M. DOBBS FERRY, Pop. 4,401. (Train 51 passes 8:58a; No. 3, 9:23a; No.
41, 1:37p; No. 25, 3:18p; No. 19, 6:07p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:45a;
No. 26, 9:05a; No. 16, 3:23p; No. 22, 4:48p.)

About the time of the Revolutionary War, a Swede named Jeremiah Dobbs,
established a ferry here connecting with the northern end of the
Palisades (visible on the left across the river). Originally only a
dugout or skiff, it was the first ferry north of Manhattan, and was kept
up by the Dobbs family for a century. In times past the residents have
often tried to change the name of the town to something more
"distinguished," but the old name could not be displaced.

    The story goes that 50 years ago a mass meeting was held in the
    village at which it was proposed to name the town after one of
    the captors of Maj. André--either Paulding or Van Wart. The
    meeting came to nothing when an old resident suggested
    Wart-on-Hudson.

The strategic position of Dobbs Ferry gave it importance during the War
of Independence. It was the rendezvous of the British after the battle
of White Plains in Nov. 1775 and a continental division under Gen.
Lincoln was stationed here in Jan. 1777. The American army under
Washington encamped near Dobbs Ferry on the 4th of July, 1781, and
started in the following month for Yorktown, Va., where the final story
of the war took place. Two years later (May 6, 1783) Washington and Sir
Guy Carleton met at Dobbs Ferry to negotiate for the evacuation of all
British troops, and to make terms for the final settlement recognizing
American Independence. Their meeting place was the old Van Brugh
Livingston house.

    Peter Van Brugh Livingston (1710-1792), prominent merchant and
    Whig political leader in N.Y., was one of the founders of the
    College of N.J. (now Princeton), and was president of the first
    Provincial Congress of N.Y. (1775). His brother, William, was the
    first governor of N.J.

    [Illustration: Reception of President Washington at New
    York, April 23rd, 1789

    After the ratifying of the federal constitution, Washington, in
    1788, was unanimously elected president. On April 23, 1789, he
    arrived from Virginia at New York, where he was received with a
    frenzy of gratitude and praise, and was inaugurated at the Senate
    hall which stood on the site of the present U.S. Sub-Treasury
    building. The stone whereon Washington stood when he came out of
    the house is preserved in the south wall of this building. He is
    described as wearing suit of homespun so finely woven that "it was
    universally mistaken for a foreign manufactured superfine cloth."
    This, of course, was a high tribute to domestic industry.]


22 M. IRVINGTON, Pop. 2,701. (Train 51 passes 9:06a; No. 3, 9:25a; No.
41, 1:39p; No. 25, 3:21p; No. 19, 6:11p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:43a;
No. 26, 9:03a; No. 16, 3:21p; No. 22, 4:46p.)

"Sunnyside," a stone building "as full of angles and corners as a cocked
hat"* and situated behind a screen of trees a little north of the
station, was the home of Washington Irving, for whom the town was named.
First erected by Wolfert Acker in 1656, it was considerably enlarged
by Irving in 1835.

    [Illustration: War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days

    These are authentic pictures, showing actual details, of the ships
    used by the Americans and British at the time of the Revolutionary
    War. They were originally engraved for the First Edition of the
    Encyclopædia Britannica (1768). In the centre is a first rate ship
    of war, "the noblest machine that ever was invented," to quote the
    First Edition; and the illustration below shows the interior
    construction of the hull. It will be noticed that there are three
    gun decks, below which is the poop, or storage deck. "A common
    first rate man of war," says the First Edition, "Has its gun deck
    from 159 to 178 ft. in length, and from 44 to 51 broad. It
    contains from 1313 to 2000 tons; has from 706 to 1000 men, and
    carries from 96 to 100 guns. The expense of building a common
    first rate, with guns, tackling and rigging is computed at 60,000 £
    sterling."]

The east end is covered with ivy said to be grown from a slip given to
Irving when he visited Scott at Abbotsford. At Irvington we come to
Tappan Zee (to be seen on the left), where the Hudson widens into a
lake-like expanse, 10 M. long and 3 to 4 M. wide. It is a favorite
cruising place for ghosts and goblins, according to popular legend.

    [Illustration: "Sunnyside," Irving's Home After 1835

    After a long sojourn abroad, Washington Irving returned in 1835 to
    "Sunnyside" said to have been built originally in 1656. It was
    considerably enlarged by Irving, who spent the remainder of his
    life here. "Sunnyside" is now owned by Irving's descendants.]

    There is, for example, Rambout van Dam, the roystering youth from
    Spuyten Duyvil, who was doomed to journey on the river till
    Judgment Day--all because he started to row home after midnight
    from a Saturday night quilting frolic at Kakiat. "Often in the
    still twilight the low sound of his oars is heard, though neither
    he nor his boat is ever seen." Another phantom that haunts the
    Tappan Zee is the "Storm Ship," a marvellous boat that fled past
    the astonished burghers at New Amsterdam without stopping--a
    flagrant violation of the customs regulation, which caused those
    worthy officials to fire several ineffectual shots at her.

Across the river from Irvington is Piermont, and 2 M. to the southwest
of Piermont is the village of Tappan, where Maj. André was executed Oct.
2, 1780. Lyndehurst, with its lofty tower, the home of Helen Gould
Sheppard, the philanthropist, a daughter of Jay Gould, is passed on the
right just before reaching Tarrytown.


24½ M. TARRYTOWN, Pop. 5,807. (Train 51 passes 9:08a; No. 3, 9:27a; No.
41, 1:41p; No. 25, 3:23p; No. 19, 6:13p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:40a;
No. 26, 9:00a; No. 16, 3:18p; No. 22, 4:43p.)

Situated on a sloping hill that rises to a considerable height above the
Tappan Zee, historic Tarrytown stands on the site of an Indian village,
Alipoonk (place of elms), burned by the Dutch in 1644. Irving explains
that the housewives of the countryside gave the town its name because
their husbands were inclined to linger at the village tavern, but
literal minded historians think it was more likely that the name came
from Tarwen dorp or Tarwetown, "wheat town." There were perhaps a dozen
Dutch families here in 1680 when Frederick Philipse acquired title to
Philipse Manor, several thousand acres, in what is now Westchester
county. Just above Tarrytown is the valley of the Pocantico creek, the
mouth of which is marked by the projection of Kingsland Point.

    [Illustration: Washington Irving

    Washington Irving (1783-1859) was intended for a legal profession,
    but although called to the bar preferred to amuse himself with
    literary ventures. The first of these, with the exception of the
    satirical miscellany, "Salmagundi," was the delightful
    "Knickerbocker History of New York," wherein the pedantry of local
    antiquaries is laughed at, and the solid Dutch burgher established
    as a definite comedy type. When the commercial house established
    by his father and run by his brother began to go under in 1815,
    Irving went to England to look into the affairs of the Liverpool
    house, and as it was soon necessary to declare bankruptcy, his
    misfortune forced him to write for his living. Returning to
    America in 1832 after 17 years' absence, he found his name a
    household word. The only interruption to his literary career was
    the four years (1842-1846) he spent as ambassador to Spain. For
    the rest, he passed some little time travelling, but in the main
    kept retreat at "Sunnyside," where he died, Nov. 28, 1859.]

    This is the "Sleepy Hollow" of Irving's legend, where Ichabod
    Crane, the long, thin school-master, whose conspicuous bones
    clattered at any mention of ghosts, encountered the Headless
    Horseman pounding by night through the little Dutch village. It
    was after a quilting bee at Farmer Van Tassel's, where his
    daughter Katrina and what would come with her in the shape of fat
    farm-lands and well-stocked barns, aroused Ichabod's affections
    to the boiling point. He had a rival, however, "Brom Bones," a
    young black-headed sprig, who watched Ichabod's advances
    uneasily. After the party Ichabod mounted his old horse,
    Gunpowder, as bony as he, but no sooner was he well under way
    than he heard hoof beats on the road behind him and saw,
    glimmering in the dark, a white headless figure on horseback,
    carrying in its arms a round object like a head.... Never before
    or since was there such a chase in Sleepy Hollow. Perhaps the
    hapless school-teacher might have escaped, had not the Huntsman,
    just as they reached the Sleepy Hollow bridge, hurled his head
    square at his victim. The next morning no Ichabod, only a pumpkin
    lying on the road by the bridge, where the hoofmarks ceased. He
    had completely disappeared. Some weeks later Brom Bones led
    Katrina to the altar.

Through this valley, we get a glimpse of the site where Philipse
erected, partly of brick brought from Holland, a manor house,* a mill,*
and a church,* all of which are still standing.

    "There is probably no other locality in America, taking into
    account history, tradition, the old church, the manor house, and
    the mill, which so entirely conserves the form and spirit of
    Dutch civilization in the New World.... This group of buildings
    ranks in historic interest if not in historic importance with
    Faneuil Hall, Independence Hall, the ruined church tower at
    Jamestown, the old gateway at St. Augustine, and the Spanish
    cabildo on Jackson Square in New Orleans. And the time will come
    when pilgrimages will be made to this ancient beautiful home of
    some of those ideals and habits of life which have given form and
    structure to American civilization."--Hamilton Wright Mabie.

    [Illustration: Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at
    Tarrytown, N.Y.

    Irving says: "The sequestered situation of the church seems always
    to have made it a favorite haunt of troubled spirits. It stands on
    a knoll, surrounded by locust trees and lofty elms, from among
    which its white-washed walls shine modestly forth, like Christian
    purity beaming through the shades of retirement." The church is
    still standing.]

During the War of Independence, Tarrytown was the scene of numerous
conflicts between the "cowboys" and "skinners," bands of unorganized
partisans who carried on a kind of guerilla warfare, the former acting
in the interest of the colonists, and the latter in that of the king. On
the old post road on Sept. 24, 1780, Maj. André was captured by three
Continentals, John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac van Wart. The
spot where André was captured is now marked with a monument--a marble
shaft surmounted by a statue of a Continental soldier.

    Tarrytown lies principally along either side of a broad and
    winding highway, laid out in 1723, from N.Y.C. to Albany. It was
    called the King's Highway till the War of Independence, then
    called Albany Post Road, and the section of it in Tarrytown is
    known now as Broadway. The delights of traveling in the days
    when the road was first laid out are suggested in the following
    description: "The coach was without springs, and the seats were
    hard, and often backless. The horses were jaded and worn, the
    roads were rough with boulders and stumps of trees, or furrowed
    with ruts and quagmires. The journey was usually begun at 3
    o'clock in the morning, and after 18 hours of jogging over the
    rough roads the weary traveler was put down at a country inn
    whose bed and board were such as to win little praise. Long
    before daybreak the next morning a blast from the driver's horn
    summoned him to the renewal of his journey. If the coach stuck
    fast in a mire, as it often did, the passengers must alight and
    help lift it out."

    [Illustration: Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686

    The Manor House, the Old Church and the Mill were erected by
    Frederick Philipse, the lord of several thousand acres, in what is
    now Westchester County. The mill, much dilapidated, still exists.]

Many of the stirring incidents of Fenimore Cooper's novel, _The Spy_,
occurred in this neighborhood, and the town is particularly described in
_The Sketch Book_ of Washington Irving who was for many years the warden
of the old church and is buried in the old Sleepy Hollow burying ground.

    With Cooper and Washington Irving (1783-1859) American literature
    first began to exist for the world outside our own boundaries.
    The _Knickerbocker History of New York_, in which the Dutch
    founders were satirized, was practically the first American book
    to win appreciation abroad. This and later books "created the
    legend of the Hudson, and Irving alone has linked his memory
    locally with his country so that it hangs over the landscape and
    blends with it forever."

    Harvey Birch, the hero of _The Spy_, is a portrait from the life
    of a revolutionary patriot who appears in the book as a peddler
    with a keen eye to trade as well as to the movements of the
    enemy. One of the best known incidents in the book is that in
    which Harvey, by a clever stratagem, assists Capt. Wharton to
    escape. James Fenimore Cooper (1789-1851) was born at Burlington,
    N.J., but was reared in the wild country around Otsego Lake, in
    central N.Y., on the yet unsettled estates of his father. It was
    here he learned the backwoods lore, which in combination with his
    romantic genius, made him one of the most popular of authors.

Among the literary residents of Tarrytown have been Mrs. E. D. E. N.
Southworth, well known to a previous generation for her romantic novels,
John Kendrick Bangs, the humorist, and Hamilton Wright Mabie, editor and
essayist. Carl Schurz (1829-1906) is buried here in the Sleepy Hollow
churchyard. Tarrytown is the trading center of a prosperous agricultural
region; it also has about 100 manufacturing establishments with a large
output. Just north of Kingsland Point (seen at the left, on the east
bank of the river), the seat of William Rockefeller comes into view on
the right, and behind it, among the hills, is the estate of his brother,
John D. Rockefeller.

    John D. Rockefeller was born in 1839 at Richford, Tioga Co.,
    N.Y., but his family moved to Cleveland while he was still a boy,
    and his career was begun there. In 1858 he went into the produce
    commission business, and 4 years later his company invested in
    an oil refinery. Mr. Rockefeller kept constantly adding to his
    influence and possessions in this field until by 1872 the
    Standard Oil Co. was organized with him as president, and a
    practical control of oil production in America was secured. This
    was the first great American "trust." Mr. Rockefeller himself
    retired from active business in 1895. While his wealth is
    enormous, his benefactions have been on an equal scale,
    comprising gifts to the Baptist Church, the founding of
    educational institutions and the supporting of those already
    existent. Scientific research in medical fields has been a
    particular object of his generosity.

    Mr. Rockefeller's country estate is called "Kijkuit," meaning
    look-out--a name given by the early Dutch settlers to the
    beautiful hill on which it stands, and which, rising to a height
    of 500 ft., gives a lovely view up and down the Hudson, across to
    the distant mountain ridges of N.J., and inland over Westchester
    County. The house and gardens are famous not only for their
    splendour, but for the priceless works of art they contain. Among
    the treasures which have been worked in as details of the
    landscape gardening is a fountain which for years has been
    considered unrivalled by experts. The huge basin, 20 ft. 8 in. in
    diameter, was cut from a single block of granite weighing 50 tons
    and brought on the deck of a schooner from an island on the Maine
    coast to the dock at Tarrytown. The heroic figure at the top
    represents Neptune, and the figures below symbolize the Atlantic,
    Pacific and Indian Oceans.

    In the "morning garden" at the rear of the house is a bronze
    Victory (a facsimile of the Pompeiian Victory at Naples), which
    stands on a marble column with a Byzantine capital brought from
    Greece. The 13th century relief set in the wall of the pergola at
    the left came from a church in Venice.

    Descending a flight of steps to the westward, one comes upon the
    Aphrodite temple. The style of this is Graeco-Roman, with columns
    of marble supporting a dome decorated after the fashion of the
    portico niches in the Massimi palace in Rome, which was designed
    in the 16th century by Baldassare Peruzzi. Under a roof of copper
    and bronze, on a high pedestal, stands "Aphrodite," resembling
    the Venus de Medici, but so superior to her in line and
    proportion that many critics believe it to be a Praxitilean
    original from which the Venus de Medici was clumsily copied. This
    is the greatest art-treasure in the garden.


30 M. OSSINING, Pop. 10,739. (Train 51 passes 9:15a; No. 3, 9:34a; No.
41, 1:48p; No. 25, 3:30p; No. 19, 6:21p. Eastbound: No. 6, passes 8:34a;
No. 26, 8:54a; No. 16, 3:11p; No. 22, 4:36p.)

Ossining was first settled in 1700, when it was part of Philipse Manor.
It was originally called Sing Sing, taking its name from the Sin Sinck
Indians, but in 1901 the name was changed to Ossining, on account of its
association with the Sing Sing prison, which can be seen to the left
near the water's edge. The prison is a low white-marble building, built
in 1826. Ossining has a public library, several private schools, the
Roman Catholic Foreign Missionary Seminary of America, and a soldiers'
monument.

Passing the Croton aqueduct (on the right), which is carried over a
stone arch with an 80-foot span, the train crosses the mouth of the
Croton River and intersects Croton Point. It was at the extremity of
this peninsula that the British sloop-of-war "Vulture" anchored when she
brought André to visit Benedict Arnold at West Point. Six miles up the
Croton River is the Croton Reservoir, which supplies a large share of
N.Y. City's water. Across the river is Haverstraw Bay.

    At the north end of Haverstraw Bay, on the west bank, is Stony
    Point Lighthouse, the site of a fort which was the scene of one
    of the most daring exploits of the Revolutionary War. Gen.
    Anthony Wayne (1745-1796) had been forced, through political
    necessity, to relinquish his regular command, and on the
    recommendation of Washington, he organized a new Light Infantry
    Corps, with which on the night of July 15, 1779, he stormed the
    fort and recaptured it from the British at the point of the
    bayonet. This well-planned enterprise aroused the greatest
    enthusiasm through the country, and won for him the popular name
    of "Mad Anthony." Later, in war with the Indians on the frontier,
    Gen. Wayne further distinguished himself.

At this point is the greatest width (4 M.) in the river's course.
Shortly before reaching Peekskill we pass Verplanck's Point (on the
left), near which the "Half Moon" dropped anchor, Sept. 14, 1609.


40½ M. PEEKSKILL, Pop. 15,868. (Train 51 passes 9:36a; No. 3, 9:55a; No.
41, 2:09p; No. 25, 3:50p; No. 19, 6:43p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:13a;
No. 26, 8:33a; No. 16, 2:47p; No. 22, 4:14p.)

Peekskill means Peek's creek, and was named from the Dutch mariner, Jans
Peek, who established a trading post here in 1760. It will be noticed
that the Hudson turns abruptly to the left at this point, while the
creek branches off to the right. According to tradition, the adventurous
Jans, who had been voyaging up the Hudson, became confused and turned to
the right, following the creek with the idea that it was the main river,
until his boat ran aground. As a result of this accident he chose the
spot to set up a trading post. During the latter part of the
Revolutionary War Peekskill was an important post of the Continental
Army; and in Sept. 1777, the village was sacked and burned by the
British. To the north of Peekskill are Manito Mts., where the N.Y.
National Guard has its summer encampment on a high cliff overlooking the
river. The summer home of Henry Ward Beecher was in Peekskill, and
ex-Senator Chauncey M. Depew was born here.

Peekskill on the east side of the Hudson, and Dunderberg Mt. (865 ft.)
on the west, stand at the lower gate of the Highlands, so named from
the steeply rising hills which border both sides of the river for the
next 16 M. At the foot of Dunderberg Mt. is Kidd's Point, one of the
numerous places where the notorious pirate is supposed to have concealed
treasure.

Our train passes too close to the hills on the east bank to give a
perspective, but on the west, where the Highlands are visible across the
Hudson, the outlook is very beautiful. This part of the Hudson, often
compared to the Rhine, has always been a source of artistic and poetic
inspiration.

    [Illustration: Peekskill Landing--About 1815]

Close to Dunderberg Mt. the river takes a sharp turn to the left, and
just beyond the mountain can be seen Iona Island (near the west bank),
now occupied by the U.S. Government as a naval arsenal and supply depot.
Between the island and the eastern shore the river is so narrow that
this stretch is spoken of by boatmen as "The Race." A short distance
farther on the west bank is Bear Mt. Park, originally the gift of Mrs.
E. H. Harriman, which has been set aside by the Interstate Palisade Park
Commissioners as a vacation resort for the poor. Our train presently
passes by tunnel under the mountain known as "Anthony's Nose" (900 ft.),
so named, according to Diedrich Knickerbocker, from the "refulgent
nose" of Anthony van Corlear, Peter Stuyvesant's trumpeter. Across the
river is visible the mouth of Poplopen creek, on the north side, Ft.
Clinton.

    These two forts were involved in the important maneuvers of 1777,
    when the British, under Sir Henry Clinton, executed a brilliant
    enterprise northward up the Hudson; they broke through the chains
    which the Americans had stretched across the river in the hope of
    checking the advance of British warships, captured Ft. Clinton
    and Ft. Montgomery and destroyed the fleets which the Americans
    had been forming on the river.

Three M. farther (on the right) is Sugar Loaf Mt. (765 ft.), noteworthy
as the place from which Benedict Arnold, whose headquarters were in the
Beverley Robinson House, near the south base of the mountain, made his
escape to the British man-of-war "Vulture" (1780) after receiving news
of André's capture. On the west shore near Highland Falls stands the
residence of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, standing somewhat back from
the river and partly hidden by trees.

    John Pierpont Morgan (1837-1913) was born in Hartford, Conn., a
    son of Junius S. Morgan, who was a partner of George Peabody and
    the founder of the house of J. S. Morgan & Co. in London. After
    his university training at Göttingen, he began his career in the
    financial world, and by 1895, as the head of J. P. Morgan & Co.,
    was the greatest American financier. His banking house became one
    of the most powerful in the world, carrying through the formation
    of the U.S. Steel Corporation, harmonizing the coal and railway
    interests of Pennsylvania, purchasing the Leyland line of
    Atlantic steamships and other British lines in 1902, effecting an
    Atlantic shipping combine, reorganizing many large railways, and
    in 1895 supplying the U.S. government with $62,000,000 in gold to
    float a bond issue and restore the treasury surplus of
    $100,000,000. Mr. Pierpont Morgan was a prominent member of the
    Episcopal church, a keen yachtsman, a generous patron of
    charitable and educational institutions, and a notable art and
    book collector. As president of the Metropolitan Museum he gave
    or loaned to it many rare and beautiful pictures, statues, and
    art objects of all kinds. A memorial tablet was recently unveiled
    in his honour at the museum.

Buttermilk Falls (100 ft.) are visible on the west bank after a heavy
rain; the buildings on the bluff above belong to Lady Cliff, a school
for girls.


49 M. WEST POINT (Garrison). (Train 51 passes 9:46a; No. 3, 10:04a; No.
41, 2:19p; No. 25, 4:00p; No. 19, 6:55p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:01a;
No. 26, 8:20a; No. 16, 2:34p; No. 22, 4:00p.)

Across the river from Garrison, the imposing buildings of West Point,
the "Gibraltar of the Hudson," come into view. The name "West Point"
properly belongs to the village located here, but in ordinary usage it
refers to the U.S. Military Academy,* America's training school for
officers, which at the present time has about 1,000 cadets.

    [Illustration: West Point from an Aeroplane _Photo Brown Bros._

    The academy furnishes for those who wish to become army officers a
    splendid education of a standard equal to the best colleges and
    without cost to the student. Each cadet is paid $1,028.20 a year,
    an amount which, with proper economy, is sufficient for his
    support. West Point, therefore, offers an excellent opportunity
    for those who can meet the requirements and are capable of
    successfully undergoing the mental and physical discipline of the
    school. Each senator and congressman is entitled to nominate two
    candidates, who are appointed as cadets by the Secretary of War
    after passing the prescribed examination. There are also 82
    appointments at large, and the law of 1916 authorized the
    president to appoint cadets to the academy from among the enlisted
    of the Regular Army and National Guard, though not more than 180
    at any one time. This law was passed with the idea of introducing
    a greater degree of democracy into army life. Candidates for
    admission must be between 17 and 22 years, unmarried, free from
    physical infirmity and capable of passing a somewhat rigorous
    examination in high school or preparatory school subjects. The
    course of instruction, which requires three years, is largely
    mathematical and professional. From about the middle of June to
    the end of August the cadets live in camp, engaged only in
    military duties and receiving military instruction. In general the
    education and discipline are so excellent that the business world
    is always ready with its high pecuniary rewards to tempt men away
    from their military vocation. The result is that graduates
    frequently resign their commissions, and the army loses what is
    gained by the world of affairs.]

The academy occupies a commanding position on a plateau 150 ft. above
the river. As we approach, the power house is in the foreground, with
the riding school, a massive building just beyond, while the square
tower of the Administration Building dominates the scene on the level of
the parade ground above. West Point was first occupied as a military
post during the Revolutionary War. In Jan. 1778, a huge chain, part of
which is still preserved on the parade ground, was stretched across the
river in the hope of blocking the progress of the British men-of-war,
and a series of fortifications, planned by the great Polish soldier,
Kosciusko, were erected on the site of the present academy.

Thaddeus Kosciusko (1746-1817) had a romantic and picturesque career.

    An intended elopement with Ludwika, daughter of the Grand Hetman,
    Sosnowski of Sosnowica, was discovered by the Hetman's retainers.
    In the fight that followed, Kosciusko was badly wounded and flung
    from the house. Shortly afterwards he left for America, where, as
    he had been well grounded in military science, Washington soon
    promoted him to the rank of colonel of artillery and made him his
    adjutant. Kosciusko especially distinguished himself in the
    operations about N.Y.C. and at Yorktown, and Congress conferred
    upon him a number of substantial rewards. He returned to his
    native land to participate in the gallant but unsuccessful effort
    to free Poland (1794), and is now celebrated among the Poles as
    one of their greatest heroes.

At West Point were the fortifications that Benedict Arnold, their
commander in 1780, agreed to betray into British hands.

    Benedict Arnold (1741-1801) was, before his disgrace, perhaps the
    most brilliant officer and one of the most honored in the
    American army. It is true that shortly before he took command at
    West Point a court martial had directed Washington to reprimand
    him for two trivial offenses, but Washington couched the
    reprimand in words that were almost praise. The court martial had
    been ordered by Congress, against which Arnold had expressed his
    indignation for what he regarded as its mistaken policies in
    respect to the war. This conflict with Congress, together with
    certain vexatious circumstances, rising out of his command in
    Philadelphia--he had gone heavily into debt--led him into a
    secret correspondence with the British general, Sir Henry
    Clinton, and he asked for the assignment to West Point for the
    very purpose of betraying this strategic post into the hands of
    the British.

    In order to perfect the details of the plot, Clinton's
    adjutant-general, Maj. John André, met him near Stony Point on
    the night of the 21st of Sept. In the meantime, the man-of-war,
    "Vulture," upon which André had arrived, was forced to move
    farther downstream to avoid an impromptu bombardment by American
    patriots. As a result André had to start back to N.Y. by land. He
    bore a pass issued by Arnold, but he made the fatal mistake of
    changing to civilian clothes. Technically, therefore, he was a
    spy. At Tarrytown he was challenged by three Continentals; he
    offered them a purse of gold, a valuable watch, or anything they
    might name if they would permit him to proceed to N.Y.C. His
    offers were rejected and the incriminating papers were found in
    his boots. He was carried before the commanding officer of the
    lines, who, not suspecting his superior could be involved,
    notified Arnold. The latter was at breakfast with Washington's
    aides; pretending he had an immediate call from across the river,
    he jumped from the table, told his wife enough to cause her the
    greatest consternation, mounted a horse and rode to a barge which
    took him to the "Vulture." In spite of the protest and entreaties
    of Sir Henry Clinton and the threats of Arnold the unfortunate
    André, against whose character no suspicion was ever uttered, was
    hanged at Tappan, Oct. 2, 1780.

    Maj. André was 29 years old at the time, and his fate aroused
    universal sympathy. It is said that Washington himself, whom some
    historians censure because he did not save André, wept upon
    hearing the circumstances of his death, but under military law
    his execution was inevitable. Arnold, however, escaped the
    punishment he so richly merited. He was commissioned
    brigadier-general in the British army and received £6,315 for his
    property losses. He was employed in several operations during the
    remaining period of the war but later when he went to England he
    met with neglect and scorn that probably hastened his death. In
    1821 André's remains were taken to England and interred there; at
    the same time a memorial was erected in Westminster Abbey.

    [Illustration: Maj. André

    The picture was drawn by André without the aid of a looking-glass
    on the morning of the day fixed for his execution. A respite of
    twenty-four hours was, however, given. To Maj. Tomlinson, then
    acting as officer of the guard, André presented the sketch.]

Some time later Washington recommended West Point to Congress as a site
for a military school, but it was not until 1802 that the academy was
established. There are many notable memorials of early days and
distinguished soldiers here.

    By far the greater number of America's distinguished generals and
    soldiers since the War of Independence have been graduates of
    West Point. These include U. S. Grant, Philip Henry Sheridan,
    William Sherman, George P. McClellan, Thomas J. (Stonewall)
    Jackson (Confederate), Robert E. Lee (Confederate) and Richard
    Henry Anderson (Confederate). Grant was appointed to West Point
    in 1839; he was a good horseman and good in mathematics, but
    graduated in 21st place in a class of 39. Sherman, on the other
    hand, stood near the head of his class when he graduated in 1839.
    Lee was commissioned in the engineering corps upon his graduation
    in 1829. The most notable commanding officers in the American
    army during the World War, including, of course, Gen. Pershing,
    were West Point graduates; the most conspicuous exception,
    perhaps, was Maj.-Gen. Leonard Wood, who began his career as a
    surgeon.

    [Illustration: West Point and the Highlands, 1868

    This picture, published shortly after the Civil War, gives a good
    idea of the dress and uniform of the period, as well as a typical
    battery. Note the lady's hoop skirt and the bearded officer to
    whom she is speaking. The gun is one of the old muzzle-loaders,
    and there is a mortar in the foreground.]

Above the cliff and towards the north and east of the plain is Fort
Clinton; on its east front stands a monument erected in 1828 by the
Corps of Cadets to Kosciusko, while "Flirtation Walk," on the river side
of the academy, leads to Kosciusko Garden, so named because it was much
frequented by the Polish hero. On the parade ground is Victory Monument
(78 ft. high), erected in 1874 as a Civil War memorial. The library--one
of the finest military libraries in existence--contains interesting
memorials by Saint Gaudens to J. McNeil Whistler and Edgar Allan Poe,
both of whom were cadets at the academy and both of whom were virtually
expelled.

    Poe's neurotic temperament had led him into a number of
    escapades, but he gave evidence of improvement after he enlisted
    in the American Army at Boston in 1827. He served two years, and
    was promoted sergeant-major. He was then 20 years old, and on the
    basis of his army record, his uncle, John Allan, obtained for him
    an appointment to West Point. As a student he showed considerable
    facility for mathematics, but he incurred the displeasure of his
    superiors by neglect of duty, and was expelled in 1830, one year
    after he had been admitted. His temperament was of course
    unsuited to West Point discipline. The military discipline of the
    academy was equally odious to Whistler, the painter (1834-1903),
    who was dismissed and transferred to the United States coast
    survey. In his third year Whistler failed in chemistry. Col.
    Larned, one of his instructors, gives the incident
    thus--"Whistler was called up for examination in the subject of
    chemistry, which also covered the studies of mineralogy and
    geology, and given silicon to discuss. He began: 'I am required
    to discuss the subject of silicon. Silicon is a gas,' 'That will
    do, Mr. Whistler,' and he retired quickly to private life.
    Whistler later said: 'Had silicon been a gas, I would have been a
    major-general.'"

High above the academy on Mount Independence (490 ft.) still stands the
ruins of old Ft. Putnam, one of the original fortifications, from which
a magnificent view can be obtained of the academy, the river, and the
surrounding country.

Our route now lies across a peninsula called Constitution Island, which
is the site of a preparatory school for West Point.

    For many years the Island was the home of the Misses Anna and
    Susan Warner, authors of "The Wide, Wide World," and other
    stories popular with children. Through the generosity of Miss
    Susan Warner, who survived her sister, and Mrs. Russell Sage, the
    island was presented to the government a few years ago, and is
    now part of West Point.

We pass on the west bank Crow's Nest Mt. (1,396 ft.) associated with
Joseph Rodman Drake's fanciful poem, _The Culprit Fay_. Two M. farther
we leave the Highlands through the "Golden Gate," where Storm King Mt.
rises to a height of 1,340 ft. on the west side of the Hudson, and
Breakneck Mt. to a height of 1,365 ft. on the other. Near Storm King a
tunnel of the great new Catskill aqueduct, carrying water to N.Y.C.,
passes under the Hudson at a depth of 1,100 ft.--a depth made necessary
to reach solid rock at the bottom.

    N.Y. City's Catskill Mt. water supply system is the greatest of
    waterworks, modern or ancient. Three-quarters of the project has
    been completed. The waters of the Esopus Creek in the Catskills
    are stored in the Ashokan reservoir, an artificial lake twelve
    miles long, situated about 14 miles west of the Hudson River at
    Kings Mt. From this reservoir the aqueduct extends 92 M. to the
    city's northern boundary, and supplies about 375,000,000 gallons
    daily. From the Croton watershed New York receives a supply
    almost as large--336,000,000 gallons daily. Construction on the
    Catskill supply system was begun in 1907, and the total cost will
    be about $177,000,000.

The river now widens and turns to the west; on the further bank is
Cornwall, near which is the estate of E. P. Roe, the writer, and
"Idlewild," the former home of N. P. Willis, likewise a writer of
importance in his day. The home of Lyman Abbott, editor of the _Outlook_
is also here. The proprietor of Bannerman's Island, which we now pass,
is a dealer in obsolete war material; he has built on the island a
number of castle-like store-houses of old paving stones taken from the
streets of New York.


58 M. BEACON, Pop. 10,996 & NEWBURGH, Pop. 30,366. (Train 51 passes
9:56a; No. 3, 10:17a; No. 41, 2:29p; No. 25, 4:10p; No. 19, 7:06p.
Eastbound: No. 6 passes 7:50p; No. 26 8:09a; No. 16, 2:22p; No. 22,
3:48p.)

Beacon was incorporated in May, 1913, by merging the villages of
Matteawan and Fishkill Landing, the latter of which lay closer to the
west. The first settlement in the township was made in 1690. During the
Revolutionary War it was an important military base for the Northern
Continental Army. At Fishkill Landing on May 13, 1783, Gen. Knox
organized the Society of the Cincinnati.

    The Society of the Cincinnati was an organization of U.S.
    officers who had served in the Revolutionary War. Besides the
    general society of which Washington was president, another was
    organized for each state. (The name is in reference to
    Cincinnati, the Roman patriot who left the plough to serve his
    country.) Membership was limited to officers, native or foreign,
    of the Continental army who had either served with honour for
    three years or had been honorably discharged for disability, and
    to their descendants.

    Because it included several European nobles, such as Lafayette
    and Steuben, and because it was founded on the principle of
    heredity the new society was denounced as the beginning of an
    aristocracy and therefore a menace, by such Revolutionary leaders
    as Franklin, Adams, and Jefferson, who were ineligible for
    membership because they had not been in the army. There was
    perhaps a real fear that it might become a military hierarchy
    which would appropriate the important offices of the new
    republic. At any rate, several states adopted resolutions against
    it and so great was the antagonism at the first general meeting
    in 1784 Washington persuaded the members to abolish the
    hereditary feature. In spite of this condition, the excitement
    did not die, and in 1789 the Tammany Society was founded in
    N.Y.C. in opposition to the Cincinnati, and as a wherein "true
    equality" should govern. This was the origin of Tammany Hall,
    which became conspicuous in N.Y. politics.

    Alexander Hamilton succeeded Washington as president, but by 1824
    most of the state branches of the Cincinnati and the general
    society itself were dead or dying. For a long time little was
    left but a traditional dinner held each year in N.Y.C. In 1893
    the general society made an effort to revive the state
    organizations, with some little success. The hereditary feature
    has been restored and the living members number about 980. The
    motto is "Omnia relinquit servare rem publicam." (He abandons
    everything to serve the republic.)

    [Illustration: Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh

    An early picture showing American soldiers on guard at the
    headquarters of Gen. Washington at Newburgh. The house itself was
    built about 1760 and was occupied by Washington from the spring of
    1782 to August, 1783. It is now open to the public as a museum.]

Back of Matteawan are seen Beacon Mts., their name recalling
Revolutionary days when beacon fires were lighted as signals on their
summits. The summit of the highest of the group, Beacon Hill* (1,635
ft.) can now be reached by means of a cable railway, making possible a
very pleasant excursion. The Matteawan State Hospital for the Insane is
at Beacon on the north side of Fishkill Creek. Beacon's products include
hats, silks, woolens, rubber goods, engines, brick and tile; the total
annual value of manufactures is about $4,500,000. Four miles to the
northwest on Fishkill Creek is the village of Fishkill, notable for two
quaint old churches, both still standing, and interesting enough to
repay a visit: the First Dutch Reformed (1731), in which the New York
Provincial Congress met in Aug. and Sept., 1776, and Trinity (1769).

    After Congress moved elsewhere, Trinity was used as a hospital,
    and the Dutch church, being constructed of stone, was converted
    into a prison. Its most famous prisoner was Enoch Crosby (who
    served as the original for Cooper's hero in _The Spy_), a patriot
    who twice escaped with the help of the Committee of Safety, the
    only persons who knew his true character.

Across the river Newburgh is visible rising above the Hudson. From the
Spring of 1782 to Aug. 1783 Washington made his headquarters in the
Jonathan Hasbrouck house* (to the south of the city), built between 1750
and 1770. The house, a one story stone building with a timber roof, has
been purchased by the State of N.Y. and is open to visitors. It contains
many interesting Revolutionary weapons, documents and other relics. Here
in May, 1782, Washington wrote his famous letter of rebuke to Lewis
Nicola, who had written in behalf of a coterie of officers suggesting
that he assume the title of king.

    Washington's reply was peremptory and indignant. They could not
    have found, he said, "a person to whom their schemes were more
    disagreeable," and charged them, "if you have any regard for
    yourself or posterity, or respect for me, to banish these
    thoughts from your mind, and never communicate, as from yourself
    or any one else, a sentiment of like nature." Here also he made
    his reply to the so-called Newburgh addresses written by John
    Armstrong and calling for action on the part of the army to
    redress its grievances.

Newburgh was still his headquarters when Washington by the force of his
influence secured the quiet disbandment of the Continental Army at the
close of the war. Upon the occasion of the centennial celebration (1883)
of this event, a monument called the Tower of Victory, 53 ft. high with
a statue of Washington, was erected.

Newburgh is the center of a rich agricultural region, but it is a
manufacturing center as well; its output comprises machine shop
products, plaster, cotton, woolen and silk goods, felt hats, furniture,
flour, lumber and cigars. Above Newburgh can be seen the lighthouse (on
the west bank) called the Devil's Danskammer, or Devil's Dance Hall,
recalling the time when Henry Hudson and his crew landed here to witness
an Indian pow-wow. The Dutch, who were considerably startled by the
affair, thought that it could be nothing less than a diabolical dance;
hence the name.

    [Illustration: Robert Fulton's First Steamboat

    (_From Fulton's own Sketch_)

    On Sept. 1, 1807, the Albany "Gazette" announced that the "North
    River Steamboat [i.e., the "Clermont"] will leave Paulus's Hook
    [Jersey City] on Friday, the 4th of September, at 6 in the morning
    and arrive at Albany on Saturday at 6 in the afternoon." The New
    York Central train now takes only a few minutes more than three
    hours to make the trip. The same paper on Oct. 5, 1807, announced
    that "Mr. Fulton's new steamboat left New York against a strong
    tide, very rough water, and a violent gale from the north. She
    made headway against the most sanguine expectations, and without
    being rocked by the waves."]


73 M. POUGHKEEPSIE, Pop. 35,000. (Train 51 passes 10:14a; No. 3,
10:38a; No. 41, 2:48p; No. 25, 4:27p; No. 19, 7:24p. Eastbound: No. 6
passes 7:32a; No. 26, 7:51a; No. 16, 2:02p; No. 22, 3:29p.)

Poughkeepsie was the Apokeepsing of the Indians--"the pleasant and safe
harbour" made by the rocky bluffs projecting into the river, where
canoes were sheltered from wind and wave. The city is built partly on
terraces rising 200 ft. above the river, and partly on the level plateau
above. Poughkeepsie was settled by the Dutch in 1698. The most momentous
event in Poughkeepsie's history and one of the most important in that of
the whole Union, was the convention held here in 1788 at which the state
of N.Y. decided to ratify the federal constitution. The decision was
carried by three votes.

    The credit for bringing N.Y. into the Union must go largely to
    Alexander Hamilton and his supporters, John Jay and Chancellor
    Robert R. Livingston. Of the three N.Y. delegates to the federal
    convention, Hamilton was the only one to sign its report, and
    when the state convention was called at Poughkeepsie, June 17,
    1788, two-thirds of its members voted against the proposed U.S.
    constitution. The opposition was led by Gov. George Clinton and
    his party, known as the "Clintonians." Clinton, though he here
    fought bitterly the proposed new constitution and government,
    lived to be a Vice President of the U.S. (He should not be
    confused with the DeWitt Clinton who later built the Erie Canal.)
    The eloquence of Hamilton, Jay and Livingston, however, coupled
    with the news that New Hampshire and Virginia had ratified,
    finally carried the day, and the N.Y. Convention gave its
    approval of the new Constitution by a vote of 30 to 27.

Vassar College, the oldest women's college in America, and one of the
most famous, occupies extensive grounds to the east of the city.

    Vassar was founded in 1861 by Matthew Vassar (1791-1868), an
    Englishman who had established in Poughkeepsie in 1801 a brewery
    from which he became rich. He got the idea of founding a woman's
    college from his niece, Lydia Booth, a school teacher. His total
    gifts to the institution amounted to about $800,000. His nephew,
    Matthew Vassar, Jr., became manager of the brewery after his
    uncle's death, and gave in all about $500,000 to the college.
    Vassar now has a campus and farm of about 800 acres, and
    possesses an endowment of $2,440,000. Its students number about
    1,100.

The Hudson near Poughkeepsie furnishes the course for the
intercollegiate races in which American college crews, with the
exception of Harvard and Yale (which row on the Thames at New London)
have rowed practically every year since 1895. The river is spanned at
this point by one of the largest cantilever bridges in the world. It is
2,260 ft. long and 200 ft. above the water, and is the only bridge over
the Hudson south of Albany.

    It required 4 years to build the bridge, which was finished in
    1889 at a cost of $3,500,000. It connects New England directly
    with the coal fields of Pennsylvania.

Poughkeepsie has more than 50 lines of manufacture, with products of a
total annual value of $15,000,000, including mill supplies, clothing,
cigars, candied fruit and preserves, cream separators, foundry products,
knit goods, ivory buttons, and piano and organ players.

Two miles beyond Poughkeepsie the red brick buildings of the Hudson
River State Hospital are passed on the right, and presently our route
skirts Hyde Park (79 M.) near which, to the north, can be seen the
estate of Frederick W. Vanderbilt. There are many beautiful
country-places in the district. A little beyond Hyde Park on the west
bank of the river is "Slabsides," the cabin home of John Burroughs, the
poet, philosopher, and widely known writer on natural history.

    John Burroughs was born in 1837 at Roxbury, N.Y., the fifth son
    of a farmer. His first books were bought with money he earned
    from tapping maple trees, boiling the sap and selling the sugar.
    One season, he tells us, he made twelve silver quarters, and has
    never been so proud since. Although he has lived much in the
    world and has travelled widely, the greater part of his time has
    been divided between Riverby, in the little town of West Park,
    N.Y., the famous "Slabsides," his cabin in the wooded hills back
    of the Hudson, and, since 1908, an old farm house which he has
    christened Woodchuck Lodge, ½ M. from the Burroughs homestead in
    Roxbury. In his retreat at "Slabsides" he wrote some of his most
    intimate and appealing studies of nature.

Esopus Island is now passed, on the high left bank of which, near the
water, stands the home of Alton B. Parker, Democratic candidate for the
presidency against Roosevelt in 1904. We now pass the estates of D.
Ogden Mills and W.B. Dinsmore, former president of the Adams Express
Company (on the right). Esopus Lighthouse is on the west bank where the
river curves sharply to the left. On the high ground on the east bank is
the country home of the late Levi P. Morton.

    Levi P. Morton (1824-1920), American banker and politician, was
    born at Shoreham, Vt. After some years in business at Hanover,
    N.H., Boston and N.Y.C., he established in 1862 the banking house
    of L. P. Morton & Co. (dissolved in 1899), with a London branch.
    The American firm assisted in funding the national debt at the
    time of the resumption of specie payments, and the London house
    were fiscal agents of the U.S. government in 1873-1884, and as
    such received the $15,500,000 awarded by the Geneva Arbitration
    court in settlement of the "Alabama Claims" against Great
    Britain. In 1899 Morton became president of the Morton Trust Co.
    of N.Y.C. He was a Republican representative in Congress from
    1879 to 1881, U.S. minister to France (1881-1885), vice-president
    of the U.S. during the administration of Benjamin Harrison
    (1889-1893) and governor of N.Y. state (1895-1896) signing in
    that capacity the "Greater New York" bill and the liquor-tax
    measure known as the "Raines law." In 1896 he was a candidate for
    the presidential nomination in the Republican national
    convention.


88 M. RHINECLIFF, Pop. 1,300. (Train 51 passes at 10:32a; No. 3, 10:56a;
No. 41, 3:07p; No. 25, 4:46p; No. 19, 9:39p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
7:13a; No. 26, 7:31a; No. 16, 1:37p; No. 22, 3:09p.)

Across the river from Rhinecliff is Kingston (Pop. 26,688), most of
which lies on a plateau 150 ft. above the river. Rondout, once a
separate town, is now a part of the city of Kingston, the center of
which lies 3 M. inland. To the northwest is the noble scenery of the
Catskills, to the southwest are the Shawangunk Mts. and Lake Mohonk, and
in the distance on our right (that is, on the Rhinecliff side) are the
Berkshire Hills.

Kingston is one of the oldest towns in the state. In 1658 a stockade was
built here by order of Gov. Peter Stuyvesant, and although the Dutch had
built a fort here as early as 1614, it is from this event that the
founding of the city is generally dated. The town suffered a number of
murderous Indian attacks before it was taken over by the British in
1664.

    [Illustration: The "Senate House" (1676), Kingston, N.Y.

    Erected in 1676 as a private residence, the "Senate House" was one
    of the few buildings left standing when the British sacked the
    town of Kingston in October, 1777. It had been the meeting place
    of the first State Senate in the earlier part of that year. The
    house is now maintained as a colonial museum.]

The early history of Kingston reached a climax during the Revolution,
when the British under Sir John Vaughan sacked the town and burned the
buildings Oct. 17, 1777. The "Senate House"* erected in 1676, was the
meeting-place of the first State Senate during the early months of 1777.
At the time of the British occupation the interior was burnt but the
walls were left standing. The building is now the property of the state
and is used as a colonial museum. The present Court House, built in
1818, stands on the site of the old Court House, where New York's first
governor, George Clinton, was inaugurated, and in which Chief Justice
John Jay held the first term of the N.Y. Supreme Court in Sept. 1777.

    John Jay (1745-1829), son of Peter Jay, a successful N.Y.
    merchant, had a notable career. He was Chairman of the Commission
    which drafted the N.Y. State Constitution in 1777. In the same
    year he was made Chief Justice of the State. In negotiating peace
    with Great Britain (1783) he acted with Benjamin Franklin, John
    Adams, Jefferson and Henry Laurens, and he is credited with
    having been influential in obtaining favorable terms for the
    former colonies. In 1789 Washington appointed him chief justice
    of the U.S. Supreme Court, in which capacity he served for six
    years. In the meantime, 1794, he negotiated the famous Jay Treaty
    with Great Britain, which averted a dangerous crisis in the
    relations between the two countries, and settled such questions
    as the withdrawal of British troops from the northwestern
    frontier, compensation for the seizure of American vessels
    during the Franco-British war of 1793, and the refusal of the
    British up to that time to enter into a commercial treaty with
    the U.S. From 1795 to 1798 he served as Governor of N.Y. Daniel
    Webster said: "When the spotless ermine of the judicial robe fell
    on John Jay, it touched nothing less spotless than itself."

Less than a mile beyond Rhinecliff we pass "Ferncliff," the beautiful
country-place of Vincent Astor, son of the late John Jacob Astor III,
who lost his life in the "Titanic" disaster. The large white building on
a hill nearby is the Astor squash court.

    John Jacob Astor III (1864-1912) was the son of William B. Astor
    II. The latter was the son of William B. Astor (1792-1875), known
    as "the landlord of New York," because of his extensive real
    estate holdings in New York City. He was the son of the founder
    of the Astor fortune, John Jacob Astor (1763-1828). The latter
    was born near Heidelberg, Germany, worked for a time in London,
    came to N.Y.C. and took up fur trading, in which he amassed an
    enormous fortune, the largest up to that time made by any
    American.

    [Illustration: Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat

    The top figure represents a boat of the 15th Century propelled by
    paddle wheels. Below is a steam tug, the design of Jonathan Hulls,
    who received a patent on his invention from the British government
    in 1736. It appears that some time later, in 1802, Robert Fulton,
    who was then in England, actually rode in a tug of similar design
    built by William Symington. Fulton, however, was the first to
    construct a steam-boat in the modern sense of the term. The
    illustrations used above were taken from the Supplement to the
    Sixth Edition of the Encyclopædia Britannica.]

Six miles above Rhinecliff we pass Anandale on the right, the former
home of Gen. Richard Montgomery (b. 1736), who was killed Dec. 31, 1775,
while conducting the American attack on Quebec.

    It is not always remembered that the Americans undertook an
    expedition against Quebec during the first year of the
    Revolutionary War. Gen. Montgomery was joined near Quebec by
    Benedict Arnold, then a colonel, and they pushed on towards their
    objective with barely 800 men. The assault met a complete defeat;
    almost at the first discharge, Montgomery was killed, and many of
    his men were taken prisoners. In 1818 Mrs. Montgomery, then a
    gray-haired widow, sat alone on the porch of the house while the
    remains of Gen. Montgomery were brought down the Hudson on the
    steamer "Richmond" with great funeral pomp. A monument has been
    erected in St. Paul's Chapel, N.Y.C., where his remains were
    finally interred. General and Mrs. Montgomery, who was a daughter
    of Robert R. Livingston, had been married only two years when he
    went away on his expedition.

Just north of Tivoli (98 M.) is the site of the Manor House of the
Livingston family, "Clermont," after which Robert Fulton named his first
steamboat.

    The Livingston Manor comprised the greater part of what are now
    Dutchess and Columbia Counties. The founder of the family was
    Robert Livingston (1654-1725) who was born at Ancrum, Scotland,
    emigrated to America about 1673 and received these manorial
    grants in 1686. He was a member of the N.Y. Assembly for several
    terms. The Livingston Manor was involved in anti-rent troubles
    which began in the Rensselaer Manor.


109 M. GREENDALE, Pop. 1,650. (Train 51 passes 10:54a; No. 3, 11:19a;
No. 41, 3:32p; No. 25, 5:08p; No. 19, 8:10p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
6:49a; No. 26, 7:09a; No. 16, 1:07p; No. 22, 2:44p.)

From Greendale a very fine view is obtained of the noble scenery of the
Catskill Mountains. The village of Catskill (Pop. 4,461) across the
river, was at one time the only point of entrance for visitors to the
mountains--now reached chiefly by railway from Kingston. Catskill
Station, however, is still a point of departure for this favorite summer
resort. In clear weather it is possible to get a glimpse of the deep
gorge of the Kaaterskill Cove (about one mile west of Catskill village)
where Rip Winkle strayed into the mountains, discovered Hendrick Hudson
playing at skittles, and, bewitched by the wine supplied by the ghostly
sportsmen, slept for 20 years. On the high crest back of the station
(about 10 M. from the river) the Mountain House (Alt. 2,225 ft.) and
Kaaterskill House, famous old hotels, can be seen in clear weather.

    The Catskill Mts.,* a group possessing much charm and beauty, run
    parallel with the Hudson for about 15 miles, at a distance of
    from 5 to 9 miles from the shore line, on the west bank; they
    cover an area of about 500 Sq. M. On the side visible from the
    train they rise steeply to a height of 2,000 to 3,000 feet though
    on the other sides the slopes are gradual. The highest summits
    are those of Slide Mt. (4,205 ft.) and Hunter Mt. (4,025 ft.).
    The summits of several of these mountains are reached by inclined
    railways that afford splendid views. A number of deep ravines
    known as "cloves," a word derived from the Dutch, have been cut
    into the mountains by streams. The name Catskill, formerly
    Kaatskill, is a word of Dutch origin, referring, it is said, to
    the catamounts, or wild cats, formerly found here. The Indians
    called the mountains "Onti Ora" or Mts. of the Sky. Washington
    Irving in his introduction to the story of _Rip Van Winkle_ says,
    "Whoever has made a voyage up the Hudson must remember the
    Kaatskill Mts. They are a dismembered branch of the great
    Appalachian family, and are seen away to the west of the river,
    swelling up to a noble height, and lording it over the
    surrounding country. Every change of season, every change of
    weather, indeed every hour of the day, produces some change in
    the magical hues and shapes of these mountains, and they are
    regarded by all the good housewives far and near as perfect
    barometers. When the weather is fair and settled, they are
    clothed in blue and purple, and print their bold outlines on the
    clear evening sky; but sometimes when the rest of the landscape
    is cloudless, they will gather a hood of gray vapors about their
    summits, which in the last rays of the setting sun, will glow and
    light up like a crown of glory."


114 M. HUDSON, Pop. 11,745. (Train 51 passes 11:00a; No. 3, 11:26a; No.
41, 3:37p; No. 25, 5:14p; No. 19, 8:16p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 6:44a;
No. 26, 7:04a; No. 16, 1:02p; No. 22, 2:39p.)

    [Illustration: Hudson, N.Y. (1835)

    Showing one of the early passenger trains on what is now the New
    York Central route.]

Hudson, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill and commanding a
fine view of the river and the Catskill Mts., was originally known as
Claverack Landing, and for many years it was nothing more than a landing
with two rude wharfs and two small storehouses, to which the farmers in
the neighborhood brought their produce for shipment on the river. Late
in 1783, the place was settled by an association of merchants and
fishermen, mostly Quakers, from Rhode Island, Nantucket, and Martha's
Vineyard. These enterprising people had been engaged in whaling and
other marine ventures, but when these industries were crippled by
British cruisers during the War of Independence, they came to Hudson to
find a more secluded haven. They were methodical and industrious; they
even brought their houses, framed and ready for immediate erection, on
their brig, the "Comet." The settlers opened clay pits, burned bricks
and built a first class wharf. In 1785 the port was the second in the
state in the extent of its shipping. Two shipyards were established and
a large ship, the "Hudson" was launched. Toward the end of the 18th
century it was the third city in the state, and had one of the three
banks then existing in N.Y. State.

The War of 1812 caused a decline, but modern industry has revived the
town, and its manufactures include Portland cement (one of the largest
manufactories of that product in the United States is here), knit goods,
foundry and machine shop products, ice machinery, brick and furniture.

    Huge ice houses are seen along this part of the Hudson River, and
    the question sometimes arises why the river, being partly salt,
    can yield ice fit for domestic or commercial use. The explanation
    is that the water, in freezing, rejects four-fifths or more of
    its content of salt.

Four miles above Hudson we pass the estuary of Stockport, on the north
bank of which, at Kinderhook, once lived Martin Van Buren, eighth
president of the U.S.

    The son of a farmer and tavern keeper, Van Buren (1782-1862) was
    born at Kinderhook, N.Y., of Dutch descent. He obtained a scanty
    education, and it is said that as late as 1829, when he became
    secretary of state, he wrote crudely and incorrectly. He was
    admitted to the bar in 1803 in N.Y., allied himself with the
    "Clintonians" in politics and later became a leading member of
    the powerful coterie of Democratic politicians known as the
    "Albany regency," which ruled N.Y. politics for more than a
    generation, and was largely responsible for the introduction of
    the "Spoils System" into state and national affairs. Van Buren's
    proficiency in this variety of politics earned him the nickname
    of "Little Magician." In 1821 he was elected to the U.S. Senate,
    and in 1828 governor of N.Y., and in the following year was made
    secretary of state by President Jackson, who used his influence
    to obtain the nomination of Van Buren for president in 1836.
    William Henry Harrison, the Whig candidate, was his principal
    opponent, and the popular vote showed a plurality of less than
    25,000 for Van Buren. Van Buren's administration was compelled
    to bear the weight of errors committed by Jackson, his
    predecessor, and though he showed unexpected ability and firmness
    in his administration, he was defeated for re-election by
    Harrison.


130 M. SCHODACK LANDING, Pop. 1,215. (Train 51 passes 11:17p; No. 3,
11:45p; No. 41, 3:55p; No. 25, 5:30p; No. 19, 8:37p. Eastbound: No. 6
passes 6:24p; No. 26, 6:45p; No. 16, 12:41p; No. 22, 2:20p.)

Schodack was the Dutch rendering of the Indian word "Esquatack," meaning
"the fireplace of the nation." The island opposite the station was the
site of the first council fire of the Mohican Indians, who were grouped
about their "fire place" in 40 villages. They inhabited the Hudson
Valley and their domain extended into Mass.

    In consequence of attacks by the Mohawks the Mohicans moved from
    their council fire to what is now Stockbridge, Mass., in 1664.
    Later many migrated to the Susquehanna Valley and became absorbed
    into the Delawares. The descendants of those who were left at
    Stockbridge are now assembled with some of the Munsees on a
    reservation at Green Bay, Wis. They are truly the "last of the
    Mohicans." Cooper's story of that name dealt with the earlier
    period of their dispersal.

In the early days Douw's Point on the right bank, a few miles below
Albany, was the head of steamboat navigation. Passengers for Albany used
to transfer at this point to the stage. It was here that the "Half Moon"
reached its farthest point on its northward trip up the Hudson.

    Theodore Roosevelt in his _History of New York_ says: "During the
    "Half Moon's" inland voyage her course had lain through scenery
    singularly wild, grand and lonely. She had passed the long line
    of frowning battlemented rock walls that we know by the name of
    the Palisades; she had threaded her way round the bends where the
    curving river sweeps in and out among cold peaks--Storm King,
    Crow's Nest, and their brethren; she had sailed in front of the
    Catskill Mts., perhaps thus early in the season crowned with
    shining snow. From her decks the lookouts scanned with their
    watchful eyes dim shadowy wastes, stretching for countless
    leagues on every hand; for all the land was shrouded in one vast
    forest, where red hunters who had never seen a white face
    followed wild beasts, upon whose kind no white man had ever
    gazed."

In modern days the channel has been enlarged, deepened and protected by
concrete dykes, which are seen at intervals along the upper river, so
that the Hudson is now utilized for navigation as far as Troy. On the
left bank just above Parr's Island is the estuary of the Normans Kill,
which flows through the valley of Tawasentha, where, according to Indian
tradition, once lived the "mighty Hiawatha."

    Hiawatha (the word means "he makes rivers") was a legendary
    chief, about 1450, of the Onondaga Tribe of Indians. The
    formation of the League of Five Nations, known as the Iroquois,
    is attributed to him by Indian tradition. He was regarded as a
    sort of divinity--the incarnation of human progress and
    civilization. Longfellow's poem "Hiawatha" embodies the more
    poetical ideas of Indian nature-worship. In this version of the
    story, Hiawatha was the Son of Mudjekeewis (the West Wind) and
    Wenonah, the daughter of Nakomis, who fell from the moon.


142 M. RENSSELAER, Pop, 10,823. (Train 51 passes 11:30a; No. 3, 12:02p;
No. 41, 4:12p; No. 25, 5:44p; No. 19, 8:53p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
6:00a; No. 26, 6:32a; No. 16, 12:27p; No. 22, 2:07p.)

Rensselaer, originally called Greenbush, lies directly across from
Albany. It was first settled in 1631 and the site formed part of a large
tract of land bought from the Indians by agents of Killiaen Van
Rensselaer. On the lower edge of the town Ft. Cralo,* built in 1642 for
protection against the Indians, still stands; the fort has a special
interest in being connected with the origin of Yankee Doodle.

    Some writers claim that Cralo is the oldest fort still preserved
    in the U.S. Its white oak beams are said to be 18 inches square;
    its walls are 2 to 3 ft. thick, and some of the old portholes
    still remain. According to tradition there were once secret
    passages connecting the fort with the river. About 1770, during
    the French and Indian Wars, Maj. James Abercrombie had his
    headquarters here.

    Yankee Doodle is said to have been composed at the fort by Dr.
    Schuckburgh, a British surgeon, as a satire on the provincial
    troops, who did not show to advantage among the smartly dressed
    British soldiers. The Yankees, however, adopted the words and the
    tune, and less than 20 years later the captured soldiers of
    Burgoyne marched behind the lines of the victorious Continentals
    to the same melody.

    [Illustration: Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831]




                           ALBANY TO SYRACUSE


142 M. ALBANY, Pop. 113,344. (Train 51 passes 11:32a; No, 3, 12:05p; No.
41, 4:15p; No. 25, 5:46p; No. 19, 8:55p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:58a;
No. 26,6:30a; No. 16, 12:25p; No. 22, 2:05p.)

Across the river from Rensselaer on sharply mounting hills is the city
of Albany. We cross the river by a suspension bridge, passing over
Rensselaer Island and seeing ahead of us the handsome new freight houses
of the D. & H.R.R., and to right and left the boats of the Hudson River
Steamship lines lying against the wharves. Once over the bridge the
tracks swerve to the right, and soon lead into the Union Station.

Almost under the shadow of the present Capitol, on a meadow to the
north, Ft. Orange was built in 1624, when 18 families of Dutch Walloons
selected this site for a permanent settlement in the New World. The
history of Albany, however is usually dated from ten years earlier when
Dutch traders built Ft. Nassau on Castle Island, the present Rensselaer
Island.

    According to some writers a temporary trading post was
    established here by the French as early as 1540--80 years before
    the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth. But it is on the date 1614 that
    Albany lays claim to being the second oldest settlement in the
    colonies, Jamestown, founded in 1607 by Capt. John Smith and
    Christopher Newport, being the first. It is interesting to note
    that the Pilgrim Fathers narrowly missed making a settlement
    somewhere along the Hudson River. William Bradford, second
    governor of the Plymouth colony, tells in his history, how, at
    one point in the _Mayflower's_ voyage, they determined "to find
    some place about Hudson's river for their habitation." But, after
    sailing half a day, "they fell amongst dangerous shoulds and
    roving breakers," and so decided to bear up again for Cape Cod.

During the early days Albany held high rank among American settlements.
As a center of trade and civilization it rivalled Jamestown, Manhattan
and Quebec. In 1618 the Dutch negotiated here the first treaty with the
Iroquois, which tended to preserve friendly relations with the Indians
for more than a century to come.

    The territory of the Iroquois, or Six Nations, the most
    celebrated of Indian confederations, extended from Albany to
    Buffalo, that is, over just the country through which the New
    York Central runs. The name is that given to them by the French
    and is said to be formed of two ceremonial words constantly used
    by the tribesmen meaning "real adders." The league was originally
    composed of five tribes or nations--the Mohawks, Oneidas,
    Onondagas, Senecas and Cayugas. The confederation probably took
    place about 1580. In 1722 the Tuscaroras were admitted, the
    league then being called that of the Six Nations. Without
    realizing the far-reaching effect of his action, Samuel D.
    Champlain (1567-1635), the French explorer, probably changed the
    entire course of history by joining the Algonquins and Hurons in
    an attack in 1608 on the Iroquois near the present town of
    Ticonderoga. The Iroquois never forgave the French for the part
    they played in this battle and naturally turned first to the
    Dutch and then to the English for allies. "Thus did New France,"
    says Parkman, "rush into collision with the redoubted warriors of
    the Five Nations. Here was the beginning, and in some measure
    doubtless the cause, of a long series of murderous conflicts,
    bearing havoc and flame to generations yet unborn." Parkman
    estimates that in the period after the Tuscaroras joined the
    Iroquois, the Six Nations had a population of about 12,000 with
    not more than 2,150 fighting men. It is a matter of some surprise
    that so small a fighting force could wield so great a power in
    the early days. But Theodore Roosevelt, in speaking of the
    Indians as warriors, says: "On their own ground they were far
    more formidable than the best European troops. It is to this day
    doubtful whether the superb British regulars at Braddock's battle
    or the Highlanders at Grant's defeat a few years later, were able
    to so much as kill one Indian for every hundred of their own men
    who fell." Although up to that time they had been loyal friends
    of the colonists, in the War of Independence the Iroquois fought
    on the English side, and by repeated battles their power was
    nearly destroyed. From very early times a silver "covenant chain"
    was used as a symbol of their treaties with the Whites, and each
    time a new treaty was signed the covenant chain was renewed or
    reburnished. There are perhaps 17,000 descendants of the Iroquois
    now living in reservations in New York State, Oklahoma, Wisconsin
    and Canada.

    [Illustration: Stephen Van Rensselaer

    Stephen Van Rensselaer was the eighth patroon and fifth in
    descent from Killiaen, the first lord of the Manor. He was
    lieutenant governor of N.Y., an ardent promoter of the Erie
    Canal, a major general in the War of 1812 (during which he was
    defeated in the Battle of Queenstown Heights), and represented
    N.Y. in Congress from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school
    in Troy, which was incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer
    Polytechnic institute.]

In 1629 the Dutch government granted to Killiaen van Rensselaer, an
Amsterdam diamond merchant, a tract of land, 24 Sq. M., centering at
Ft. Orange, over which he was given the feudal powers of a patroon.

    The patroons, under the Dutch régime, were members of the Dutch
    West India Co., who received large grants of land, called Manors,
    in New Netherlands. These grants carried with them semifeudal
    rights, and the patroon could exercise practically autocratic
    powers in his domain. The first of the patroons, Killiaen van
    Rensselaer (1580-1645), never came to this country, but he sent
    over numerous settlers as tenants. The Manor was called
    Rensselaerswyck, and comprised all of the present counties of
    Albany and Rensselaer, and part of Columbia.

This was the first manorial grant in New Netherlands and was destined to
endure the longest. The colonists sent to this country by van Rensselaer
were industrious and the town prospered, although in 1644, it was
described by Father Jogues, a Jesuit priest, as "a miserable little fort
called Fort Orange, built of logs, with four or five pieces of Breteuil
cannon and as many swivels; and some 25 or 30 houses built of boards,
and having thatched roofs." On account of its favorable commercial and
strategic position at the head of navigation on the Hudson and at the
gateway of the Iroquois country and the far west, it maintained its
importance among colonial settlements for a century and a half. Its
early name, Beverwyck, was changed to Albany--one of the titles of the
Duke of York, afterwards James II.--when New Netherlands was transferred
to the English (1644). Albany was granted a charter in 1686, and the
first mayor (appointed by Gov. Dongan) was Peter Schuyler, who was
likewise chairman of the Board of Indian Commissioners.

    Peter Schuyler (1657-1724) was a son of Philip Pieterse Schuyler
    (d. 1683), who migrated from Amsterdam in 1650. The family was
    one of the wealthiest and most influential in the colony, and it
    was closely related by marriage to the van Rensselaers, the van
    Cortlandts and other representatives of the old Dutch
    aristocracy.

Representatives of Mass., R.I., N.H., Conn., N.Y., Pa., and Md., met in
Albany in June, 1754, for the purpose of confirming and establishing a
close league of friendship with the Iroquois and of arranging for a
permanent union of the colonies. This was the first important effort to
bring about a Colonial confederation.

    The Indian affairs having been satisfactorily adjusted, the
    convention, after considerable debate, in which Benjamin
    Franklin, Stephen Hopkins and Thomas Hutchinson took a leading
    part, adopted a plan for a union of the colonies on the basis of
    a scheme submitted by Franklin. This plan provided for a
    representative governing body to be known as the Grand Council,
    to which each colony should elect delegates for a term of three
    years. Neither the British government nor the growing party in
    the Colonies which was clamoring for colonial rights received
    the plan with favor--the former holding that it gave the colonies
    too much independence and the latter that it gave them too
    little.

At about this time a Swedish naturalist, Peter Kalm, visiting Albany,
reported that "there is not a place in all the British colonies, the
Hudson Bay settlement excepted, where such quantities of furs and skins
are bought of the Indians as at Albany." Most of the houses at this time
were built of brick and stood with gable ends to the street; each house
had a garden and a _stoep_, where the family were accustomed to sit
summer evenings, the burgher with his pipe and his "vrouw" with her
knitting. Well-to-do families owned slaves, but according to Mrs. Anne
Grant, an English writer of the day who spent part of her childhood in
Albany, "it was slavery softened into a smile."

    [Illustration: North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780) Looking
    North from State St. to Maiden Lane

    (_From an old French print in the N.Y. Public Library_)

    In the left foreground is the south end of the Livingston house.
    Just beyond, with two high gables facing the street, is the
    Vanderheyden Palace, erected 1725. The square building at the
    rear, corner of Maiden Lane, is the residence of Dr. Hunloke
    Woodruff. In the right foreground (on the corner) is the Lydius
    House, erected in 1657.]

It was here that the English from all the colonies, before and during
the French and Indian wars met to consult with the Indians and make
treaties with them. It was the gathering place of armies where troops
from all the colonies assembled and the objective of hostile French
forces and their Indian allies on several occasions, yet was never taken
by an enemy and never saw an armed foe. Even during the Revolutionary
War, when its strategic importance was fully recognized by both armies,
it remained immune, though at one time the objective against which
Burgoyne's unsuccessful expedition was directed.

    In 1777 the English general, John Burgoyne (1722-1792), was
    placed at the head of British and Hessian forces gathered for the
    invasion of the Colonies from Canada and the cutting off of New
    England from the rest of the Colonies. He gained possession of
    Ticonderoga and Ft. Edward; but pushing on, was cut off from his
    communications with Canada and hemmed in by a superior force at
    Saratoga Springs, 30 M. north of Albany. On the 17th of Oct. his
    troops, about 3,500 in number, laid down their arms, surrendering
    to Gen. Horatio Gates. This success was the greatest the
    colonists had yet achieved and proved the turning-point in the war.

In 1797 Albany became the permanent state capital. The election of
Martin Van Buren as governor in 1828 marked the beginning of the long
ascendancy in the state of the "Albany Regency," a political coterie of
Democrats in which Van Buren, W.L. Marcy, Benjamin Franklin Butler and
Silas Wright were among the leaders.

    Thurlow Weed (1797-1882), the bitterest enemy of this coterie,
    and the man who gave them their name, declared of them that he
    "had never known a body of men who possessed so much power and
    used it so well." Until the election of William H. Seward (the
    Whig candidate) as governor in 1838, New York had usually been
    Democratic, largely through the predominating influence of Van
    Buren and the "Regency." Weed had an important share in bringing
    about their defeat. He owed his early political advancement to
    the introduction into state politics of the Anti-Masonic issue;
    for a time he edited the _Anti-Masonic Enquirer_. In 1830 he
    established and became editor of the Albany _Evening Journal_,
    which he controlled for thirty-five years.

The anti-rent war, precipitated by the death of Stephen van Rensselaer
(1764-1839), the "last of the patroons," centered about Albany. The
final settlement of this outbreak, which began with rioting and murder,
and ended with the election of a governor favorable to the tenants
(1846), disposed of feudal privilege in New York State which had
flourished here until well into the 19th century, though it had
disappeared elsewhere.

    The anti-rent agitation began in the Hudson River counties during
    the first administration of Gov. Seward (1839). The greater part
    of the land in this section was comprised in vast estates such as
    the Rensselaerswyck, Livingston, Scarsdale, Philipse, Pelham and
    Van Cortlandt manors, and on these the leasehold system, with
    perpetual leases, and leases for 99 years (or the equivalent),
    had become general. Besides rents, many of the tenants were
    required to render certain services to the proprietor, and in
    case a tenant sold his interest in a farm to some one else he was
    required to pay the proprietor one-tenth to one-third of the
    amount received, as an alienation fee.

    Stephen van Rensselaer had permitted his rents, especially those
    from poorer tenants, to fall much in arrears, and the effort of
    his heirs to collect them--they amounted to about $200,000--was
    met with armed opposition. In Rensselaer county a man was
    murdered, and Gov. Seward was forced to call out the militia. The
    tenants, however, formed anti-rent associations in all the
    affected counties, and in 1844 began a reign of terror, in which,
    disguised as Indians, they resorted to flogging, tarring and
    feathering, and boycotting, as weapons against all who dealt with
    the landlords. This culminated in the murder of a deputy sheriff
    in Delaware county. In 1846 the anti-rent associations secured
    the election of Gov. John Young as well as several legislators
    favorable to their cause, and promoted the adoption of a new
    constitution abolishing feudal tenures and limiting future
    agricultural leases to twelve years. Under the pressure of public
    opinion the great landlords rapidly sold their farms.

    Stephen van Rensselaer was the 8th patroon and 5th in descent
    from Killiaen, the first lord of the manor. He was
    lieutenant-governor of New York, an ardent promoter of the Erie
    canal, a major-general in the War of 1812 (during which he was
    defeated at the battle of Queenstown Heights) and represented New
    York in congress from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school
    in Troy which was incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer
    Polytechnic Institute.

    [Illustration: Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714)

    (_From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library_)

    This church, built of bricks brought from Holland, stood for about
    92 years in the open area formed by the angle of State, Market and
    Court streets. It was erected in less than four weeks. The early
    Dutch felt that without the church they could not hope to prosper.
    The old church was of Gothic style, one story high, and the glass
    of its antique windows was richly ornamented with coats of arms.
    In 1806 the church was taken down and its brick employed in the
    erection of the South Dutch Church, between Hudson and Beaver
    streets, which in turn was later replaced by a newer structure.]

Comparatively few ancient landmarks remain in Albany, though there are
some fine specimens of the Dutch and later colonial architecture still
standing. Of these the best known is the Schuyler mansion,* built by
Gen. Philip Schuyler, in 1760, which, after serving for many years as an
orphan asylum, was recently purchased by the state and converted into a
museum.

    Having served in the French and Indian wars, Philip Schuyler
    (1733-1804) was chosen one of the four major-generals in the
    Continental service at the outbreak of the Revolutionary War and
    was placed in command of the northern department of New York with
    headquarters at Albany. The necessary withdrawal of the army from
    Crown Point in 1776 and the evacuation of Ticonderoga in 1777
    were magnified by his enemies into a disgraceful retreat, and he
    was tried by court martial but acquitted on every charge. He was
    a delegate from N.Y. to the Continental Congress in 1779, and
    later joined his son-in-law, Alexander Hamilton, John Jay and
    others in the movement for the ratification by New York of the
    Federal constitution. In 1790 he was elected to the U.S. senate.
    "For bravery and generosity" says John Fiske, "he was like the
    paladin of some mediæval romance."

The Van Rensselaer manor-house, built in 1765, was pulled down in 1893
and reconstructed on the campus of Williams College, Williamstown,
Mass., where it forms the Sigma Phi fraternity house. In the Albany
Academy, built in 1813 by Philip Hooker, architect of the old State
Capitol, Prof. Joseph Henry demonstrated (1831) the theory of the
magnetic telegraph by ringing an electric bell at the end of a mile of
wire strung around the room. Bret Harte, the writer, was born in 1839 in
Albany, where his father was teacher of Greek in the Albany College, a
small seminary.

    Bret Harte lived in Albany until his 17th year. In 1896, lured by
    the gold rush, he left for California with his mother, then a
    widow. Once there, the rough but fascinating chaos engulfed him,
    and from it, at first hand, he drew the stage
    properties--Spaniards, Greasers, gambling houses--the humor, sin
    and chivalry of the '49--which color all his stories. After some
    little journalism and clerking, he was made secretary to the
    Supt. of the Mint, a position which was not too exacting to allow
    a great deal of leisure for writing. Later he returned to the
    East with his family, made his home in N.Y.C. and gave all his
    time to authorship. Apparently his success somewhat turned his
    head. He lived beyond his means, passing his summers at Newport,
    Lenox and other expensive places, until his unbusinesslike habits
    and chronic indebtedness became notorious. In 1878 he accepted a
    consulate at Crefeld, Prussia. He spent the rest of his life
    abroad and died in England in 1902.

Modern buildings of interest include the City Hall,* a beautiful French
Gothic building; the State Educational Building, with its valuable
library; the Albany Institute, with its art galleries; the Cathedral of
the Immaculate Conception, built of brownstone, with spires 210 ft.
high; the Cathedral of All Saints, a fine specimen of Gothic
architecture, said to be the first regularly organized Protestant
Episcopal cathedral erected in the United States (1883), St. Peter's
Church, and, most important, the State Capitol.*

    [Illustration: The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State
    Leaving Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831

    On its first trip this train, now preserved on the right balcony
    of the Grand Central Terminal, attained a speed of nine miles an
    hour. The route between Albany and Schenectady was practically
    identical with that of the present New York Central lines.]

    The Capitol occupies a commanding position in Capitol Square. It
    is built of white Maine granite, and cost about $25,000,000.
    Millions were spent in alteration and reconstruction, due to the
    use of inferior materials and to mistakes in engineering design.
    The cornerstone was laid 1871, and the building was completed,
    with the exception of the central tower, in 1904. The legislature
    first met here in 1879. The original designs were by Thomas
    Fuller, who also designed the parliamentary building at Ottawa,
    but they were considerably altered. The beautiful Western
    staircase of red sandstone (from plans by Isaac Gale Perry) and
    the senate chamber (designed by H. H. Richardson) are the most
    striking features of the building. The present capitol suffered a
    heavy loss in the burning of its library in 1911, by which many
    unreplaceable books and original documents were destroyed.

The city has 11 parks, comprising 402 acres; the most notable is
Washington Park, which contains two well known statues--one of Robert
Burns, by Charles Caverley, and the bronze and rock fountain, "Moses at
the Rock of Horeb," by J. Massey Rhind. The city's filtration system is
of special interest to engineers; it occupies 20 acres, has eight filter
beds, and filters 15,000,000 gallons of water daily.

Albany's key position with respect to New York, Boston and Buffalo
ensured its commercial development. The first passenger railroad in
America was operated between Albany and Schenectady.

    The first train in the state, consisting of the locomotive "De
    Witt Clinton," named for the seventh governor, and three coaches
    (resembling early stage coaches), was built for the Mohawk and
    Hudson Railroad Co., the original unit of the present New York
    Central Lines, and was chartered in 1826 to run from Albany to
    Schenectady--a distance of 16 M. The locomotive was constructed
    at the West Point foundry and taken to Albany by boat. It had its
    first trial on rails, July 30, 1831, burning anthracite coal and
    attaining a speed of 7 M. an hour. After remodeling, it made the
    trip from Albany to Schenectady in one hour and 45 minutes, using
    pine wood for fuel. On Aug. 9, 1831, two trips were made, during
    which a speed of 30 M. an hour was reached. The train ran on iron
    "straps" nailed to wooden "stringers." As originally built the
    locomotive weighed 6,758 pounds, which, in remodeling, was
    increased to 9,420 pounds--less than the weight of one pair of
    wheels of a modern locomotive. At a banquet on the occasion of
    the formal opening of the line (Aug. 13, 1831), President
    Camberling of the railroad gave the following toast: "The Buffalo
    Railroad! May we soon breakfast at Utica, dine at Rochester, and
    sup with our friends on Lake Erie." The original train is still
    preserved and may be seen in the right balcony of the Grand
    Central Station, N.Y.C.

The first steamboat in the United States made its initial trips between
N.Y. and Albany, and the first canal connected Albany with Buffalo.

    The original Erie Canal was one of the greatest of early
    engineering projects in America, and its importance in the
    development of N.Y. State, and of the country to the west, can
    hardly be overestimated. Construction was begun in 1817, under a
    commission including Gouverneur Morris, De Witt Clinton, Robert
    Fulton, and Robert R. Livingston, and in 1825 the main channel,
    363 miles in length, was opened between Albany and Buffalo, the
    total cost being $7,143,790. Three branches were added later. At
    the close of 1882, when tolls were abolished, the total revenues
    derived from the canal had been $121,461,871, while expenditures
    had amounted to $78,862,154. Various factors, including the
    competition of the railroads, caused a considerable decline in
    canal traffic in the last quarter of a century. The old canal was
    a ditch following the line of the Mohawk and other rivers and
    creeks. The new barge canal system has four branches, the Erie,
    from Albany to Buffalo; the Champlain, from Albany to Lake
    Champlain the Oswego, which starts north midway on the line of
    the Erie Canal and reaches Lake Ontario, and the Cayuga and
    Seneca, which leaves the Erie canal a little to the west of the
    Oswego junction and extends south, first to Cayuga Lake and then
    to Seneca Lake. The new canal system was first intended for 1,000
    ton barges, but its capacity has been made much larger. Various
    sections of the improved canal were completed between 1916 and
    1918, and the total cost has been about $150,000,000.

Within 35 years Albany has increased fivefold in size, and is today the
intersecting point of the principal water routes of the Eastern States,
for besides being near the head of navigation for large steamers on the
Hudson, it is virtually the terminus of the N.Y. State barge canal. It
is also the key point in the transportation system of the state, for
here the B. & A. and the D. & H. railroads meet the New York Central, so
that one can take train for Buffalo and Chicago, the Thousand Islands,
the Adirondacks, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain, Montreal, Vermont
and the Green Mts., the Berkshires, and Boston. It is the second largest
express and third largest mail transfer point in the United States. The
forests of the Adirondacks and of Canada have made it a great lumber
post. Its manufactures have an annual value of $30,000,000 or more; they
include iron goods, stoves, wood and brass products, carriages and
wagons, brick and tile, shirts, collars and cuffs, clothing and knit
goods, shoes, flour, tobacco, cigars, billiard balls, dominoes and
checkers.

Leaving Albany, we follow closely the path of the old Iroquois Trail,
which was in early days, as now, the chief highway to the Great Lakes.

    The Indian trail began at Albany and led directly across the
    country to Schenectady; from this point to Rome there were two
    trails, one on either side of the Mohawk. That on the south side
    had the most travel as it led through three Mohawk "castles" or
    villages, one at the mouth of the Schoharie Creek, one at
    Canajoharie, and the third at the town of Danube, opposite the
    mouth of East Canada Creek. Farther on, the trail passed through
    the present towns of Fort Plain, Utica and Whitesboro. The trail
    on the north bank led through Tribes Hill, Johnstown, Fonda and
    Little Falls, where it united with the main traveled route.

    At West Albany are extensive shops of the New York Central Lines.
    When working full capacity about 1,400 men are employed here. The
    machines are all of modern design and electrically driven. There
    are large freight yards having a trackage of nearly 100 M. The
    passenger car shops include two great buildings which are used
    for making general repairs and one for construction of steel
    equipment. One of the repair buildings is 42 ft. by 200 ft. and
    has a track capacity of 100 cars, and the other, 400 ft. by 80
    ft., a capacity of 180 cars. There are two enormous paint shops,
    a blacksmith shop, where numerous forgings are made for other
    departments, a woodmill, a machine-shop with a floor space of
    13,000 sq. ft., and cabinet, upholstering, brass and plating
    shops. The truck shop covers 1,800 sq. ft., and is used for
    building and general repairs of trucks of wood, built-up steel,
    and cast-iron. From the tin and pipe shop is supplied all the
    light metal ware needed by the railroad.

    [Illustration: 1831-1921

    Showing the dimensions of the first equipment of the present New
    York Central Lines--the DeWitt Clinton and three coaches--in
    comparison with the modern locomotive used to draw the Twentieth
    Century and other fast trains.]


159 M. SCHENECTADY, Pop. 88,723. (Train 51 passes 11:57a; No. 3, 12:47p;
No. 41, 4:57p; No. 25, 6:12p; No. 19, 9:32p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
5:24a; No. 26, 5:56a; No. 16, 11:35a; No. 22, 1:24p.)

At this point we first enter the historic Mohawk Valley, and on this
site, according to tradition, once stood the chief village of the Mohawk
Indians.

    The Mohawk River rises in Lewis County (northwestern N.Y.), flows
    south to Rome, then east to the Hudson River which it enters at
    Cohoes. It is 160 miles long. There are rapids and falls at
    Little Falls and Oriskany which have been utilized to develop
    electric power. The Mohawk valley is noted for its beauty and the
    fertility of its soil. The name Mohawk is probably derived from
    an Indian word meaning "man-eaters"; but the Mohawks' own name
    for their tribe was Kaniengehaga, "people of the flint." They
    lived in the region bounded on the north by the Lake of Corlear,
    on the east by the Falls of Cohoes, on the south by the sources
    of the Susquehanna, and on the west by the country of the
    Oneidas. The dividing line between the Mohawk and Oneida tribes
    passed through the present town of Utica. The Mohawks had the
    reputation of being the bravest of the Iroquois; they furnished
    the war chief for the Six Nations and exercised the right to
    collect tribute in the form of wampum from the Long Island tribes
    and to extend their conquests along the sea coast. The tribes,
    along both banks of the Hudson River, it is said, shrank before
    their war cry. In the War of Independence they fought with the
    English, and finally took refuge in Canada, where most of them
    have remained.

The first settlement at Schenectady was made in 1642 by Arendt Van
Corlear and a band of immigrants who had become dissatisfied with
conditions on the Manor of Rennselaerwyck where Corlear was manager of
the estates of his cousin, Killiaen van Rennselaer.

    Van Corlear had emigrated to America about 1630 and while manager
    of Rennselaerwyck he earned the confidence of the Indians, among
    whom "Corlear" became a generic term for the English governors
    and especially the governors of N.Y. The name Kora, derived from
    the same source, is said to be used even today by surviving
    Iroquois in Canada to designate the English king.

To each of the 15 original proprietors, except Van Corlear who was to
receive a double portion, was assigned a village lot of 200 sq. ft., a
tract of bottom land for farming purposes, a strip of woodland, and
common pasture rights. Many of the early settlers were well-to-do and
brought their slaves with them, and for many years the settlement,
originally known as Dorp, was reputed the richest in the colony.

Schenectady was spelled in a great variety of ways in the early records.
Its Indian equivalent signified "Back Door" of the Long House--the
territory occupied by the Six Nations.

    In an early map (1655) the name appears as Scanacthade. As late
    as 1700 the spelling was still uncertain, as the following
    minutes from the record of the common council of September 3, of
    that year show: "The Church wardens of Shinnechtady doe make
    application that two persons be appointed to go around among the
    inhabitants of the City to see if they can obtain any
    Contributions to make up ye Sellary due their minister." Other
    ways of spelling the name were Schanechtade and Schoneghterdie.

In 1690 the young village received a setback which very nearly brought
its early history to an end; on Feb. 9 of that year, the French and
Indians surprised and burned the village, massacred 60 of the
inhabitants and carried 30 into captivity.

    An old tradition says that an Indian squaw had been sent to warn
    the inhabitants, under cover of selling brooms. In the afternoon
    of Feb. 8, 1690, Dominic Tassomacher was being entertained with
    chocolate at the home of a charming widow of his parish when the
    squaw entered to deliver her message. The widow became indignant
    at the sight of snow on her newly scrubbed floor, and rebuked her
    unexpected guest. The Indian woman replied angrily, "It shall be
    soiled enough before to-morrow," and left the house. The massacre
    occurred that night.

Schenectady was rebuilt in the following years, but an outlying
settlement was again the scene of a murderous French and Indian attack
in 1748. In the land along the river, the old part of the town, Indian
skulls and arrow heads are still found.

English settlers arrived in considerable numbers about 1700. About 1774
a number of Shaker settlements were made in the lower Mohawk valley.

    The Shakers, a celibate and communistic sect--officially the
    United Society of Believers in Christ's Second
    Appearance--received their common name from the fact that
    originally they writhed and trembled in seeking to free "the soul
    from the power of sin and a worldly life." They had trances and
    visions, and there was much jumping and dancing. The founder of
    the sect was Mother Ann Lee (1736-1784) of Manchester, England,
    who came to N.Y. with a number of relatives in 1774 and bought
    land in the lower Mohawk Valley. The first Shaker settlement was
    at Watervliet, not far from Troy. The settlers established a
    communistic organization with branches in Mass., and Conn. As a
    matter of practice they do not forbid marriage, but refuse to
    recognize it; they consider there are four virtues: virgin
    purity, Christian communism, confession of sin, and separation
    from the world. The women wear uniform costumes and the men have
    long hair. The sect is diminishing. There are now less than 1,000
    members in 17 societies in Mass., N.H., Maine, Conn., and Ohio,
    though at its most flourishing period it had nearly 5,000.

Schenectady was chartered as a borough in 1765 and as a city in 1798,
and from that period date many quaint examples of colonial architecture.
In Scotia, a suburb to the northwest of the city, still stands the
Glen-Sanders mansion (built 1713) described as "a veritable museum of
antiquity, furnished from cellar to garret with strongly built, elegant
furniture, two centuries old." Descendants of the original owners are
still living there. A fine specimen of Dutch architecture is the
so-called Abraham Yates house (1710) at No. 109 Union Street. The
Christopher Yates house at No. 26 Front Street was the birth place of
Joseph C. Yates, first mayor of Utica (1788) and governor of the state
in 1823. Governor Yates afterwards lived, until his death, in the large
colonial house at No. 17 Front Street. The old "depot" of the Mohawk &
Hudson Railroad, the first steam passenger railway in America now
incorporated with the New York Central, is still standing in Crane
Street.

Schenectady is the seat of Union College, which grew out of the
Schenectady Academy (established in 1784) and many of the buildings
dating back to the early 19th century are still in excellent
preservation. They were designed by a French architect, Jacques Ramé,
and the original plans are still in the Louvre, in Paris. At one of the
entrances to the college on Union Street is the Payne Gate, built as a
memorial to John Howard Payne (1791-1852), author of "Home, Sweet
Home," who was at one time a student at Union College The college
comprises the academic and engineering departments of Union University.
The other departments of the university--medicine, law, and pharmacy, as
well as the Dudley observatory--are at Albany.

Up to the time of the building of the Erie Canal, Schenectady had been
an important depot of the Mohawk River boat trade to the westward, but
after the completion of the canal it suffered a decline. The modern
manufacturing era, beginning about 1880, brought Schenectady growth and
prosperity. To-day the city can boast that its products "light and haul
the world." As we enter the town we pass on the left the main
establishment of the General Electric Co., the largest electrical
manufacturing plant in the world, with 200 buildings and 26,000
employees.

    In the years before 1886 Schenectady had been suffering from a
    long period of stagnation. In that year an official of the Edison
    Machine Works of N.Y.C. happened to pass through Schenectady and
    noticed two empty factories, the former Jones Car Works. The
    Edison Company had been established in N.Y.C. about 1882 by
    Thomas A. Edison, and it was now looking for an opportunity to
    remove elsewhere. Accordingly Schenectady was chosen, and in 1892
    the Edison Co.--which had been renamed the Edison General
    Electric Co.--and the Thompson Houston Electric Co. of Lynn,
    Mass., were consolidated and formed the General Electric Co. The
    main plant was at Schenectady, but other plants were retained at
    Lynn, Mass., and Harrison, N.J. The early electrical apparatus
    was crude and the output of the factory was small, but this
    consolidation marked the beginning of a world-wide business. In
    1893, the book value of the General Electric Co. factory was less
    than $4,000,000. Since then the company has spent more than
    $150,000,000 improving and enlarging its plant. Branch factories
    are now maintained at Lynn, Pittsville, and East Boston, Mass.;
    Harrison and Newark, N.J.; Erie, Pa.; Fort Wayne, Ind.; Toledo
    and Cleveland, Ohio. At Schenectady one may see the latest
    development in practically every variety of electrical apparatus.
    There are in the General Electric plant individual factories
    devoted to generators, motors, turbines, transformers,
    switchboards, rheostats, wire and cable, and searchlights, as
    well as pattern shops, machine shops, brass and iron foundries,
    and testing, shipping and power stations. The company pays
    considerable attention to welfare work among its employees and
    free instruction in electrical engineering is given on a large
    scale.

The American Locomotive Co., which likewise has a factory here, with
5,000 employees, turns out some of the largest and fastest locomotives
produced in America or abroad. During the last 35 years Schenectady has
become one of the greatest industrial centers in the United States; its
total annual output has a value of nearly $100,000,000, the output of
the General Electric Co, alone being about $75,000,000.

    [Illustration: "Dr. Watson's Electrical Machine"

    In 1768, when this picture, reproduced here from the First Edition
    of the Encyclopædia Britannica, was published, only the most
    elementary principles of electricity had been discovered. Benjamin
    Franklin's discovery, made with the aid of a kite, that lightning
    is an electrical phenomenon, was the greatest advance in
    electrical science up to that time. "Electrical machines," such as
    that shown, were, designed to produce frictional or "static"
    electricity, of which the quantity is usually small, and is
    therefore now produced chiefly for laboratory experiments. When
    the wheel at the left was turned sufficient electricity was
    generated to cause a spark to jump between the two hands at the
    right. This machine paved the way for the invention of the dynamo
    electric machines for which Schenectady is world famous.]

We now cross the Mohawk River, and Erie Canal, and our route ascends the
valley of the Mohawk as far as Rome. To the south the Catskill Mts. are
visible in the distance, and the outline of the Adirondack Mts. can be
faintly seen to the north.

    This beautiful group of mountains was once covered, all but the
    highest peaks, by the Laurentian glacier, whose erosion, while
    perhaps having little effect on the large features of the region,
    has greatly modified it in detail, producing lakes and ponds to
    the number of more than 1,300 and causing many falls and rapids
    in the streams. In the Adirondacks are some of the best hunting
    and fishing grounds in the United States, which are so carefully
    preserved that there are quantities of deer and small game in the
    woods, and black bass and trout in the lakes. Some 3,000,000
    acres are preserved. The scenery is wonderfully fine and the air
    so clear that many sanatoriums have been established for
    tuberculosis patients.


175 M. AMSTERDAM, Pop. 33,524. (Train 51 passes 12:15p; No. 3, 1:12p;
No. 41, 5:20p; No. 25, 6:30p; No. 19, 9:52p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
5:07a; No. 26, 5:39a; No. 16, 11:10a; No. 22, 1:03p.)

    [Illustration: Sir William Johnson (1715-1774)

    Sir William was a remarkable figure in early N.Y. history. He is
    said to have been the father of 100 children, chiefly by native
    mothers, either young squaws or wives of Indians who thought it an
    honor to surrender them to the king's agent. According to an early
    historian, the Indians of the Six Nations "carried their
    hospitality so far as to allow distinguished strangers the choice
    of a young squaw from among the prettiest of the neighborhood, as
    a companion during his sojourn with them."]

Amsterdam was settled about 1775 and was called Veedersburg until 1804
when its present name was adopted. It was for some time the home of
Elisha Arnold, father of Benedict Arnold, but the latter was born in
Norwich, Conn. (Jan. 14, 1741.) The so-called Guy Park Mansion built in
1763, by Guy Johnson, nephew of Sir William Johnson is still used as a
private residence. Today Amsterdam ranks as the first city in the United
States in the manufacture of carpets and second in the manufacturing of
hosiery and knit goods. It has one of the largest pearl button factories
in the country; other products are brushes, brooms, silk gloves, paper
boxes, electrical supplies, dyeing machines, cigars, wagon and
automobile springs; the total value of the output being about
$30,000,000 annually.


178 M. FORT JOHNSON, Pop. 680. (Train 51 passes 12:18p; No. 3, 1:15p;
No. 41, 5:23p; No. 25, 6:33p; No. 19, 9:56p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
5:03a; No. 26, 5:36a; No. 16, 11:03a; No. 22, 12:59p.)

This village is named for the house* and fort erected here in 1742, by
Sir William Johnson, one of the most remarkable of the early pioneers.

    Sir William Johnson (1715-1774) distinguished himself not only
    for the prosperous settlements which he built up along the valley
    of the Mohawk, but also for his military ability and his
    remarkable influence with the Iroquois Indians. Born in Ireland,
    he came to America in 1738 for the purpose of managing a tract of
    land in this valley belonging to his uncle, Admiral Sir Peter
    Warren. The fort which he built on the site of the present
    village bearing his name soon became the center of trade with the
    Indians, and likewise a strategic point for Johnson's military
    ventures. The Mohawks adopted him and elected him a sachem. He
    was at various times superintendent of the affairs of the Six
    Nations, commissary of the province for Indian affairs, and
    major-general in the British army. As a commanding officer he
    directed the expedition against Crown Point (1755) and in
    September of that year defeated the French and Indians, at the
    battle of Lake George. For his success he received the thanks of
    parliament and was created a baronet. He took part in a number of
    other expeditions against the French and Indians, and as a reward
    for his services the king granted him a tract of 100,000 acres of
    land north of the Mohawk River. It was in a great measure due to
    his influence that the Iroquois remained faithful to the cause of
    the colonies up to the time of the Revolutionary War. In 1739
    Johnson married Catherine Wisenberg, by whom he had three
    children. After her death he had various mistresses, including a
    niece of the Indian chief Hendrick, and Molly Brant, a sister of
    the famous chief, Joseph Brant. It is said that he was the father
    of 100 children in all. After the French and Indian War he
    retired to the present Johnstown.

    [Illustration: Joseph Brant, "Thayendanegea" (1742-1807)

    (_From original painting by Romney in collection of Earl of
    Warwick_)

    Chief Thayendanegea (Joseph Brant) of the Mohawk tribe was an
    unusual character, combining the savage traits of an Indian
    Warrior and the more civilized qualities of a politician and
    diplomat. Born on the banks of the Ohio River, he was sent to an
    Indian charity school (now Dartmouth College) at Lebanon, Conn.,
    by Sir William Johnson. He fought with the English in the French
    and Indian War and with the Iroquois against Pontiac in 1763.
    Subsequently he became a devout churchman and settled at
    Canajoharie or Upper Mohawk castle, where he devoted himself to
    missionary work and translated the Prayer Book and St. Mark's
    Gospel into the Mohawk tongue. In the Revolutionary War he led the
    Mohawks and other Indians friendly to the British against the
    settlements on the N.Y. frontier, even taking part, despite his
    religion, in the Cherry Valley Massacre. After the war he aided
    the U.S. in securing treaties of peace with the Miamis and other
    western tribes. Subsequently he went to Canada as a missionary,
    and in 1786 visited England, where he raised funds with which was
    erected the first Episcopal Church in Upper Canada. Brant sat for
    his picture several times in England, once in 1776, at the request
    of Boswell (the author of the "Life of Johnson"), and during the
    same visit for the Romney portrait, at Warwick's request. In 1786
    he was painted for the Duke of Northumberland and for a miniature
    to present to his daughter.]

After 1763 the fort was occupied by his son Sir John, who, during the
War of Independence organized a loyalist regiment known as the "Queen's
Royal Greens," which he led at the battle of Oriskany, and in raids on
Cherry Valley (1778-1780) and on the Mohawk Valley. The house, once used
as a fort, is described by an early writer thus: "Col. Johnson's mansion
is situated on the border of the north bank of the River Moack. It is
three stories high (two with an attic) built of stone, with port-holes
and a parapet, and flanked with four bastions on which are some small
guns. In the yard, on both sides of the mansion, are two small houses;
that on the right of the entrance is a store, and that on the left is
designed for workmen, negroes and other domestics. The yard gate is a
heavy swing-gate, well ironed; it is on the Moack River side; from this
gate to the river is about two hundred paces of level ground. The high
road passes there." The place, now somewhat remodeled, is owned by the
Montgomery County Historical Society and many curious historic relics
are on exhibition here. It is open to the public daily.


181 M. TRIBES HILL, Pop. 900. (Train 51 passes 12:21p; No. 3, 1:18p; No.
41, 5:27p; No. 25, 6:36p; No. 19, 10:00p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:00a;
No. 26, 5:33a; No. 16, 11:00a; No. 22, 12:56p.)

Tribes Hill received its name from the fact that it was an old meeting
place of the Indians. Across the river, in the estuary at the junction
of Schoharie Creek with the Mohawk, once stood Ft. Hunter, which was the
lower Mohawk castle, the upper castle being at Canajoharie.

    A contemporary description says: "Ft. Hunter, known by the
    Indians as Ticonderoga, is one of the same form as that of
    Canajoharie except that it is twice as large. It likewise has a
    house at each corner. The cannon at each bastion are seven and
    nine pounders. The pickets of this fort are higher than those at
    Canajoharie There is a church or temple in the middle of the
    fort, while in its inclosure are also some thirty cabins of
    Mohawk Indians, which is their most considerable village. This
    fort, like that of Canajoharie, has no ditch and has a large
    swing-gate at the entrance. There are some houses outside, though
    under the protection of the fort, in which the country people
    seek shelter when an Indian or French war party is looked for."

About two miles farther at the little village of Auriesville on the left
side of the Mohawk, where the river is joined by Auries Creek, there is
a shrine (visible on the left from the train) marking the spot where
Father Jogues, a Jesuit Priest, was killed in 1646.

    [Illustration: Father Isaac Jogues

    Isaac Jogues (1607-1646), a French missionary, came to this
    country to preach among the Hurons and Algonquins. In 1642 he was
    captured by the Mohawks, who tortured him and kept him as a slave
    until the following summer, when he escaped. Father Jogues
    returned in 1646 to establish a mission among his former
    tormentors. About this time a contagious disease broke out amongst
    the Indians, and to make matters worse their crops failed. For
    these misfortunes they blamed the French priest, tortured him as a
    sorcerer and finally put him to death.]


186 M. FONDA, Pop. 747. (Train 51 passes 12:27p; No. 3, 1:25p; No. 41,
5:39p; No. 25, 6:42p; No. 19, 10:05p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:55a; No.
26, 5.28; No. 16, 10:55a; No. 22, 12:51p.)

The town of Fonda was named for Jelles Fonda, said to have been the
first merchant west of Schenectady. Fonda established a prosperous store
here about 1760, and his old accounts (still preserved) disclose that he
had among his customers "Young Baron of the Hill," "Wide Mouth Jacob,"
"Young Moses," "Snuffers David," and the "Squinty Cayuga."

Following is a bill from Jelles Fonda's accounts:

                    Young Moses, Dr.

        Sept. 20, 1762                 £  s.  d.
        To one French blanket          0  16  0
         " one small blanket           0  12  0
         " 4 Ells White linnen         0   8  0
         " 1 pair Indian stockings     0   6  0
         " 1 hat                       0   8  0
         " 1 pt. of rum and one dram   0   1  4
         " 1 qt. rum                   0   2  0

        I leave in pledge two silver wrist-bands.

(In other words, the wrist-bands were put up as security for the debt.)

Six miles north of Fonda is Johnstown (Pop. 10,908) where Sir William
Johnson built his second residence (1762) now in the custody of the
Johnstown Historical Society. It is a fine old baronial mansion.

    Sir William called this residence Johnson Hall and lived here
    with all the state of an English country gentleman. He devoted
    himself to colonizing his extensive lands and is said to have
    been the first to introduce sheep and pedigreed horses into the
    province.

Sir William also built the Fulton County Court House with its jail
(1772), used during the Revolutionary War as a civil and military
prison. A free school, probably the first in N.Y. State, was established
at Johnstown by Sir William Johnson in 1764 in his residence. In 1766 he
organized a Masonic Lodge, one of the oldest in the U.S. In 1781, during
the War of Independence, Col. Marinus Willett defeated here a force of
British and Indians. The city is one of the principal glove making
centers in the U.S. The total products are valued at about $3,000,000
annually. The manufacture of gloves in commercial quantities was
introduced into the U.S. at Johnstown in 1809 by Talmadge Edwards, who
was buried here in the Colonial Cemetery.

    [Illustration: Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749)

    This building had originally been the home of Martin Janse Van
    Alstyn, and was so well built that it had withstood the attacks of
    the Indians under Brant in 1780. It was therefore appropriated in
    1781 by the American government, adopted as a fort, and placed
    under the control of Col. Marinus Willet, a competent officer
    chosen by Washington to handle the district in which Ft. Van
    Rensselaer and Ft. Plain were the military headquarters. (Still
    standing.)]


197 M. CANAJOHARIE (Palatine Bridge), Pop. 2,415. (Train 51 passes
12:40p; No. 3, 1:39p; No. 41, 5:55p; No. 25, 7:43p; No. 19, 10:20p.
Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:42a; No. 26, 5:45a; No. 16, 10:44a; No. 22
12:36p.)

Passing the villages of Yosts and Sprakers we arrive in the town of
Canajoharie, which in early days was the site of the upper Mohawk
castle.

    The upper Mohawk castle, sometimes called Ft. Canajoharie, was
    described by an early writer as consisting of "a square of 4
    bastions of upright pickets joined with lintels 15 ft. high and
    about 1 ft. square, with port-holes, and a stage all around to
    fire from. The fort was 100 paces on each side, had small cannon
    in its bastions, and houses to serve as a store and barracks.
    Five or 6 families of Mohawks reside outside the pickets. From
    Ft. Canajoharie to Ft. Hunter (the lower Mohawk castle) is about
    twelve league, with a good carriage road along the bank of the
    river."

In 1749 a fortified dwelling was built here known as Ft. Rensselaer,
which was utilized as a place of defence during the Revolutionary War.
Canajoharie was the home of the famous Indian leader, Joseph Brant.

On the left, a little beyond Palatine Bridge, can be seen the red brick
Herkimer mansion, near which a monument has been erected to Nicholas
Herkimer, who died in 1777 from wounds received at Oriskany. We pass the
village of Ft. Plain, St. Johnsville and East Creek.


216 M. LITTLE FALLS, Pop. 13,029. (Train 51 passes 12:58p; No. 6, 1:59p;
No. 41, 6:17p; No. 25, 7:14p; No. 19, 10:39p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
4:22a; No. 26, 4:55a; No. 16, 10:22a; No. 22, 12:16p.)

Our route here lies through a ravine cut by the Mohawk River through a
spur of the Adirondack Mts. The town is picturesquely situated on the
sides of the gorge overlooking the rapids and falls. The Mohawk here
descends 45 ft. in ½ M.

In the gorge, there are crystalline rocks which are of interest as
belonging to the Laurentian formation, the oldest rock formation on the
face of the globe.

    According to geological classification, these rocks belong to the
    Archæan system. They represent formations of the very earliest
    period of the earth's history--probably before there was any
    animal or vegetable life whatsoever. The Archæan rocks have
    sometimes been spoken of as the original crust of the earth, but
    this is disputed by many geologists.

Little Falls dates from about 1750. In 1782 there was an influx of
German settlers into the village, and almost immediately thereafter the
town was destroyed by Indians and "Tories.". It was resettled in 1790.
Two and a half miles east of the town was the boyhood home of Gen.
Nicholas Herkimer.

    Gen. Herkimer (1728-1777) was the son of John Jost Herkimer (d.
    1775), one of the original group of German settlers in this
    section of the Mohawk Valley. Gen. Herkimer was colonel of the
    Tyrone County Militia in 1775, and was made brigadier general of
    the state militia in 1776. He was mortally wounded at the battle
    of Oriskany.

It is planned to establish an Historical Museum at the old Herkimer
homestead. Near the city is the grave of Gen. Herkimer, to whom a
monument was erected in 1896.

The water power derived from the falls has stimulated manufacturing in
the city; its output includes cotton yarns, hosiery, knit goods,
leather, etc., valued at $15,000,000 annually. The city is one of the
largest cheese markets in the U.S.

    [Illustration: Fort Plain (1777)

    (_From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library_)

    This was built in place of another unsatisfactory fort by the
    American government early in the Revolution, and was designed by
    an experienced French engineer. "As a piece of architecture, it
    was well wrought and neatly finished and surpassed all the forts
    in that region."]


223 M. HERKIMER, Pop. 10,453. (Train 51 passes 1:07p; No. 3, 2:06p; No.
41, 6:25p; No. 25, 7:22p; No. 19, 10:47p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:15a;
No. 26, 4:49a; No. 16, 10:12a; No. 22, 12:08p.)

Herkimer was settled about 1725 by Palatine Germans, who bought from the
Mohawk Indians a large tract of land, including the present site of the
village. They established several settlements which became known
collectively as "German Flats."

    These settlers came from the Palatinate, a province of the
    kingdom of Bavaria, lying west of the Rhine. The district had
    been torn by a succession of wars, culminating in the carnage
    wrought by the French in 1707. In the following year, more than
    13,000 Palatines emigrated to America, settling first on the
    Livingston Manor, and later along the Mohawk and elsewhere.

In 1756 a stone house (built in 1740 by John Jost Herkimer), a stone
church, and other buildings, standing within what is now Herkimer
Village, were enclosed in a stockade by Sir William Johnson. This post,
at first known as Ft. Kouari (the Indian name), was subsequently called
Ft. Herkimer. Another fort (Ft. Dayton) was built within the limits of
the present village in 1776 by Col. Elias Dayton (1737-1807), who later
became a brigadier-general and served in Congress in 1787-1788. During
the French and Indian War the settlement was attacked (Nov. 12, 1757)
and practically destroyed, many of the settlers being killed or taken
prisoners; and it was again attacked on April 30, 1758. In the War of
Independence, Gen. Herkimer assembled here the force which on Aug. 6th,
1777, was ambushed near Oriskany on its march from Ft. Dayton to the
relief of Ft. Schuyler. The settlement was again attacked by Indians and
"Tories" in Sept. 1778, and still again in June, 1782. The township of
Herkimer was organized in 1788, and in 1807 the village was
incorporated. Herkimer is situated in a rich dairying region and has
manufactures with an output of $4,000,000 annually.


225 M. ILION, Pop. 10,169. (Train 51 passes 1:10p; No. 3, 2:10p; No. 41,
6:29p; No. 25, 7:25p; No. 19, 10:51p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:12a; No.
26, 4:46a; No. 16, 10:07a; No. 22, 12:05p.)

This village, the main part of which is situated on the south bank of
the Mohawk, owed its origin to a settlement made here in 1725 by
Palatine Germans, but the village as such really dates from the
completion of the Erie Canal in 1825. In 1828 Eliphalet Remington
(1793-1861) established here a small factory for the manufacture of
rifles. He invented, and with the assistance of his sons, Philo, Samuel
and Eliphalet, improved the famous Remington rifle.

In 1856 the company added to its business the manufacture of farming
tools, in 1870 of sewing machines and in 1874 of typewriters. The
last-named industry was sold to another company in 1886, and soon
afterwards, on the failure of the original Remington company, the fire
arms factory was bought by a N.Y.C. firm, though the Remington name was
retained. The spot where Eliphalet had his primitive forge on the Ilion
gorge road, just south of the town, is marked by a tablet placed there
by the Daughters of the American Revolution. The principal manufactures
today are typewriters, fire-arms, cartridges, and filing cabinets and
office furniture. The annual output is valued at about $10,000,000.


237 M. UTICA, Pop. 94,156. (Train 51 passes 1:22p; No. 3, 2:31p; No. 41,
6:42p; No. 25, 7:41p; No. 19, 11:08p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:57a; No.
26, 4:31a; No. 16, 9:53; No. 22, 11:50a.)

    [Illustration: Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835

    Washington Street, with the Presbyterian Church, is seen on the
    left; the bridge across the Erie Canal is seen on the right, down
    Genesee Street, and at its extremity the depot of the Utica and
    Schenectady (now the New York Central) Railroad then recently
    built.]

The territory on which Utica is built was originally part of the 22,000
acre tract granted in 1734 by George II. to William Cosby (1695-1736),
colonial governor of New York in 1732-36, and his associates. It was
then known as Cosby's Manor.

    Sir William Cosby served originally as colonel in the British
    army, then, after being governor of Minorca and later of the
    Leeward Islands, he was sent to New York. Before leaving England,
    he obtained a good deal of money for colonizing expenses, and his
    refusal to share this with Van Dam, his predecessor and
    colleague, gave rise to a law suit between the two which came to
    nothing but was the cause of much bitterness between Cosby and
    his friends on the one hand, and Van Dam and the people's party
    on the other. His administration was turbulent and unpopular. The
    grant made to Cosby was one of a number of colonizing ventures
    made by the British government during this period.

During the Seven Years' War a palisaded fort was erected on the south
bank of the Mohawk at the ford where Utica later sprang up. It was named
Ft. Schuyler in honor of Col. Peter Schuyler, an uncle of Gen. Philip
Schuyler of the Continental Army.

    This should not be confused with the fort of the same name at
    Rome which was built later. In order to distinguish the two, the
    fort at Utica is often referred to as Old Ft. Schuyler.

The main trail of the Iroquois which became later the most used route to
the western country, crossed the Mohawk here and continued to Ft.
Stanwix, now Rome. A branch trail turned slightly to the southwest, then
more directly west to Oneida Castle. Cosby's Manor was sold at a
sheriff's sale for arrears of rent in 1792 and was bid in by Gen. Philip
Schuyler, Gen. John Bradstreet, John Morin Scott and others for £1387
(about 15 cents an acre). The first bridge across the Mohawk at Utica
was built in 1792. Soon after the close of the War of Independence, a
large number of new settlers arrived, most of them Germans from the
lower Mohawk Valley. About 1788 there was an influx of New Englanders,
among whom was Peter Smith (1768-1837), later a partner of John Jacob
Astor, and father of Gerrit Smith, a political and religious radical,
who was born here in 1797.

    After graduating from Hamilton College in 1818, Gerrit Smith
    (1797-1874) assumed the management of the vast estate of his
    father, and greatly increased the family fortune, but he soon
    turned his attention to reform and philanthropy. He first became
    an active temperance worker, and then, after seeing an
    anti-slavery meeting at Utica broken up by a mob, took up the
    cause of abolition. He was one of the leading organizers of the
    Liberty party (1840), and later was nominated for president by
    various reform parties, notably the Free Soil Party (1848 &
    1852). He was likewise the candidate of the anti-slavery party
    for governor of New York in 1840 and 1858. In 1853 he was elected
    to Congress as an independent, whereupon he issued an address
    declaring that all men have an equal right to the soil; that wars
    are brutal and unnecessary; that slavery could not be sanctioned
    by any constitution, state or federal; that free trade is
    essential to human brotherhood; that women should have full
    political rights, and that alcoholic liquors should be prohibited
    by state and federal enactments. He resigned at the end of his
    first session and gave away numerous farms of 50 acres each to
    indigent families; attempted to colonize tracts in Northern N.Y.
    with free negroes; assisted fugitive slaves to escape--Peterboro,
    his home village, 22 miles southwest of Utica, became a station
    on the "Underground railroad"--and established a nonsectarian
    church, open to all Christians of whatever shade of belief, in
    Peterboro. He was an intimate friend of John Brown of Osawatomie,
    to whom he gave a farm in Essex County. His total benefactions
    probably exceeded $8,000,000.

Utica is situated on ground rising gradually from the river. There are
many fine business and public buildings, especially on Genesee St., the
principal thoroughfare, and the city is known for the number of its
institutions, public and private. It has some fine parks. In the Forest
Hill Cemetery are the graves of Horatio Seymour and Roscoe Conkling.

    Horatio Seymour (1810-1886) was a member of the N.Y. Assembly
    (1842-1845), Mayor of Utica (1843) and Governor of the State
    (1854-1855). In 1854 he vetoed a bill prohibiting intoxicating
    liquors in the state. In 1863-1865 he was again governor and
    opposed Lincoln's policy in respect to emancipation, military
    arrests and conscription. He was nominated as the Democratic
    presidential candidate against Grant in 1868, but carried only
    eight states. He died at Utica at the home of his sister, who was
    the wife of Roscoe Conkling.

    Roscoe Conkling (1829-1888) was a lawyer and political leader
    who attracted attention in public life because of his keenness
    and eloquence in debate, his aggressive leadership, and his
    striking personality. He was born in Albany and was admitted to
    the bar at Utica in 1850. Having joined the Republican party at
    the time of its formation, he served for several years as
    representative in Congress, and in 1867 was elected senator from
    N.Y. He labored for the impeachment of President Johnson and was
    one of the senatorial coterie that influenced Grant. He was
    disappointed in his ambition to be nominated for president in
    1876, and in 1880 he was one of the leaders of the unsuccessful
    movement to nominate Grant for a third presidential term.

Here also is the famous Oneida stone of the Oneida Indians on which the
warriors used to have their ears slit to prepare them for battle, and on
which, too, they used to place the scalps of their enemies. The stone
was brought here from Oneida Castle.

Utica has varied and extensive manufactures (17,000 employees), with a
total annual output of about $60,000,000. Among its products are hosiery
and knit goods, cotton goods, men's clothing, foundry products, plumbing
and heating apparatus lumber products, food preparation, boots and
shoes, and brick, tile and pottery, as well as a number of others. Utica
is the shipping point for a rich agricultural region, from which are
shipped dairy products (especially cheese), nursery products, flowers
(especially roses), small fruits and vegetables, honey and hops.

We pass on the right, a short distance north of the river, the
picturesque Deerfield Hills, a beginning of the scenic highlands which
stretch away towards the Adirondack Mts. Fifteen miles north of Utica on
West Canada Creek, are Trenton Falls,* which descend 312 feet in two
miles through a sandstone chasm, in a series of cataracts, some of them
having an 80-foot fall. The falls are reached on the branch line of the
New York Central leading from Utica to the Adirondacks.

    [Illustration: North America as It Was Known in 1768

    This map was first printed in the First Edition of the
    Encyclopædia Britannica in 1768. Note that all of Canada west of
    Hudson's Bay (including Alaska) and a section of the United
    States west of Lake Superior and as far south as the present
    states of South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon were then
    "Parts Undiscovered." The central part of the continent was New
    France, and the extreme southwest was New Spain. Considering the
    meagre geographical knowledge of the day, the map was remarkably
    accurate.]


244 M. ORISKANY, Pop. 1,101. (Train 51 passes 1:30p; No. 3, 2:39p; No.
41, 6:56p; No. 25, 7:49p; No. 25, 11:17p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 3:36a;
No. 26, 4:21a; No. 16, 9:36a; No. 22, 11:32a.)

The battle of Oriskany, an important minor engagement of the
Revolutionary War, was fought in a little ravine about 2 M. west of
Oriskany, Aug. 6, 1777. Two days before, Gen. Nicholas Herkimer had
gathered about 800 militiamen at Ft. Dayton (on the site of the present
city of Herkimer) for the relief of Ft. Schuyler which was being
besieged by British and Indians under Col. Barry St. Leger and Joseph
Brant. On the 6th, Herkimer's force, on its march to Ft. Schuyler, was
ambushed by a force of 650 British under Sir John Johnson and 800
Indians under Joseph Brant, in the ravine west of the village. The rear
portion of Herkimer's troops escaped from the trap, but were pursued by
the Indians, and many of them were overtaken and killed. Between the
remainder and the British and Indians there was a desperate hand-to-hand
conflict, interrupted by a violent thunderstorm, with no quarter shown
by either side. About this time a sortie was made from Ft. Schuyler and
the British withdrew, after about 200 Americans had been killed and as
many taken prisoner. The loss of the British was about the same. Gen.
Herkimer, though his leg had been broken by a shot at the beginning of
the action, continued to direct the fighting on the American side, but
died on Aug. 16 as a result of the clumsy amputation of his leg.

    Before the engagement, Gen. Herkimer, realizing that the British
    had a superior force, pleaded for delay, hoping for a signal that
    the American forces at Ft. Schuyler were ready to co-operate in
    the battle. His subordinate officers, however, retorted that they
    "came to fight, not to see others fight" and finally accused
    Herkimer of being a "Tory and a coward." Gen. Herkimer,
    thoroughly enraged, gave the order to march.

The battle, though indecisive, had an important influence in preventing
St. Leger from effecting a junction with Gen. Burgoyne, which would have
materially assisted the latter's intention to cut off New England from
the rest of the colonies. An obelisk on the hill to the left marks the
spot where the battle took place.


251 M. ROME. Pop. 26,341. (Train 51 passes 1:37p; No. 3, 2:47p; No. 41,
7:07p; No. 25, 7:57p; No. 19, 11:23p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:28a; No.
26, 4:15a; No. 16, 9:28a; No. 22, 11:24a.)

The portage at this place, between the Mohawk River and Wood Creek (to
the northwest), which are about a mile apart, gave the site its Indian
name, De-i-wain-sta, "place where canoes are carried from one stream to
another," and its earliest English name, "The Great (or Oneida) Carrying
Place." Its location made it of strategic value as a key between the
Mohawk Valley and Lake Ontario. Wood Creek flows into Oneida Lake, and
thus formed part of a nearly continuous waterway from the Hudson to the
Great Lakes. Two primitive forts were built in 1725 to protect the
carrying place, but these were superseded by Ft. Stanwix, erected about
1760 by Gen. John Stanwix, at an expense of £60,000. The first permanent
settlement dates from this time. In Oct. and Nov. of 1768, Sir William
Johnson and representatives of Virginia and Pennsylvania met 3,200
Indians of the Six Nations here and made a treaty with them, under
which, for £10,460 in money and provisions, they surrendered to the
crown their claims to what is now Kentucky, West Virginia and the
western part of Pennsylvania.

    This treaty, the last great act of Sir William Johnson, probably
    averted another Indian war. Great preparations were made for
    feasting the Indians who attended the council. It is said that 60
    barrels of flour, 50 barrels of port, 6 barrels of rice and 70
    barrels of other provisions were sent to the meeting place. There
    was a prolonged period of speech making, but the treaty was
    finally signed on Nov. 5, 1768. One of the features of this
    treaty was the sale to Thomas Penn (1702-1775) and Richard Penn
    (1706-1771), second and third sons of William Penn (founder of
    Pa.), of the remaining land in the province of Pa., to which they
    claimed title. This transaction involved £2,000 of the total
    payment made to the Indians.

The fort was immediately dismantled, but was repaired by the
Continentals after 1776 and renamed Ft. Schuyler, in honor of Gen.
Philip Schuyler and so is sometimes confused with Old Ft. Schuyler at
Utica. The 3rd Regiment of New York line troops under Col. Peter
Gansevoort, occupied the fort in 1777. The first U.S. flag made
according to the law of June 14, 1777, was raised over Ft. Schuyler on
Aug. 3rd of that same year, one month before the official announcement
by Congress of the design of the flag, and was almost immediately used
in action. The first fight under the colors was the battle of Oriskany
in which the soldiers of the fort became involved.

    The basic idea of the present flag was evolved by a committee
    composed of George Washington, Robert Morris, and Col. George
    Ross with the assistance of Betsy Ross. The flag made by Mrs.
    Ross, though it is sometimes referred to as the first U.S. flag,
    was actually prepared as a tentative design or pattern for
    submission to Congress. On the 14th of June, 1777, Congress
    resolved "that the flag of the U.S. be thirteen stripes,
    alternates red and white, that the Union be thirteen stars, white
    in a blue field, representing a new constellation." This was the
    original of the national flag. The flag at Ft. Stanwix was a
    hasty makeshift put together under direction of Col. Marinus
    Willet, who found it difficult to obtain materials because the
    fort was hemmed in by the British. In his diary Col. Willet
    relates that "white stripes were cut out of an ammunition shirt;
    the blue out of a camlet cloak taken from the enemy at Peekskill,
    while the red stripes were made of different pieces of stuff
    procured from one and another of the garrison."

After the War of Independence, three commissioners for the U.S. made a
new treaty with the chiefs of the Six Nations at Ft. Schuyler (1784). In
1796 a canal was built across the old portage between Wood Creek and the
Mohawk. In the same year the township of Rome was formed, receiving its
name, says Schoolcraft, "from the heroic defence of the republic made
here." The country surrounding Rome is devoted largely to farming,
especially vegetables, gardening and to dairying. Among the manufactures
are brass and copper products, wire for electrical uses, foundry and
machine-shop products, locomotives, knit goods, tin cans and canned
goods (especially vegetables).


264 M. ONEIDA, Pop. 10,541. (Train 51 passes 1:53p; No. 3, 3:05p; No.
41, 7:25p; No. 25, 8:12p; No. 19, 11:42p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:15a;
No. 26, 4:02a; No. 16, 9:11a; No. 22, 11:10a.)

The city of Oneida is comparatively modern, but the village of Oneida
Castle across the river to the south dates back to the time when this
was the chief settlement of the Oneida Indians, who moved here about
1600 from the site of what is now Stockbridge in the same county.

    The name Oneida is a corruption of the name Oneyotka-ono or
    "people of Stone," in allusion to the Oneida stone, a granite
    boulder near Oneida Castle which was held sacred by this tribe of
    the Iroquois. An early traveler who visited the castle in 1677
    wrote that the "Onyades have but one town, doubly stockaded, of
    about one hundred houses." The rest of the tribe lived around
    Oneida Lake, in the region southward to the Susquehanna. They
    were not loyal to the Iroquois League's policy of friendliness to
    the English, but inclined towards the French, and were
    practically the only Iroquois who fought for the Americans in the
    War of Independence. As a consequence they were attacked by
    others of the Iroquois under Joseph Brant and took refuge within
    the American settlements till the war ended, when the majority
    returned to their former home, while some migrated to the Thames
    River district, Ontario. Early in the 19th century they sold
    their lands, and most of them settled on a reservation at Green
    Bay, Wis., some few remaining in N.Y. State. The tribe now
    numbers more than 3,000, of whom about two-thirds are in
    Wisconsin, a few hundred in N.Y. State and about 800 in Ontario.
    They are civilized and prosperous.

    [Illustration: Samuel de Champlain

    Samuel de Champlain (1567-1635), born at the little port Brouage
    in the Bay of Biscay, made his first trip to Canada in 1603, and
    five years later established the first white settlement at Quebec.
    In the spring he joined a war party of Algonquins and Hurons,
    discovered the great lake that bears his name, and with his
    arquebus took an important part in the victory which his savage
    friends obtained over the Iroquois. In 1615, with another
    expedition of Indians, he crossed the eastern ends of Lakes Huron
    and Ontario and made a fierce but unsuccessful attack on an
    Onondaga town near Lake Oneida. Parkman says: "In Champlain alone
    was the life of New France. By instinct and temperament he was
    more impelled to the adventurous toils of exploration than to the
    duller task of building colonies. The profits of trade had value
    in his eyes only as a means to these ends, and settlements were
    important chiefly as a base of discovery. Two great objects
    eclipsed all others--to find a route to the Indies and to bring
    the heathen tribes into the embrace of the Church, since, while he
    cared little for their bodies, his solicitude for their souls knew
    no bounds."]

The history of the modern city of Oneida goes back to 1829, when the
present site was purchased by Sands Higinbotham, who is regarded as the
founder of the town and in honor of whom one of the municipal parks is
named. In the southeastern part of the city is the headquarters of the
Oneida Community, originally a communistic society but now a business
corporation, which controls important industries here, at Niagara Falls
and elsewhere.

    The Oneida Community was founded in 1847 by John Humphrey Noyes
    (1811-1866), and attracted wide interest because of its pecuniary
    success and its peculiar religious and social principles. Noyes
    was originally a clergyman, but broke away from orthodox religion
    to found a sect of his own in Putney, Vt., where he lived. This
    sect was known as the "Association of Perfectionists" and formed
    the nucleus of the community which Noyes later established at
    Oneida. The principles of the new community were based on the
    idea that true Christianity was incompatible with individual
    property, either in things or in persons. Consequently the new
    community held all its property in common. Marriage in the
    conventional sense of the word was abolished. The community was
    much interested in the question of race improvement by scientific
    means, and maintained that at least as much scientific attention
    should be given to the physical improvement of human beings as is
    given to the improvement of domestic animals. The members claimed
    to have solved among themselves the labor question by regarding
    all kinds of service as equally honorable, and respecting every
    person in accordance with the development of his character.

    The members had some peculiarities of dress, mostly confined,
    however, to the women, whose costumes included a short dress and
    pantalets, which were appreciated for their convenience if not
    for their beauty. The women also adopted the practice of wearing
    short hair, which it was claimed saved time and vanity. Tobacco,
    intoxicants, profanity, obscenity, found no place in the
    community. The diet consisted largely of vegetables and fruits,
    while meat, tea and coffee were served only occasionally.

    For good order and the improvement of the members, the community
    placed much reliance upon a very peculiar system of plain
    speaking they termed mutual criticism. Under Mr. Noyes'
    supervision it became in the Oneida Community a principal means
    of discipline and government.

    The community had its first financial success when it undertook
    the manufacture of a steel trap invented by one of its members.
    Later the community engaged in a number of other enterprises,
    both agricultural and manufacturing. In the meantime they were
    subjected to bitter attacks on account of the radical beliefs of
    its members, especially regarding marriage. Noyes, the founder,
    recognized that in deference to public opinion it would be
    necessary to recede from their social principles, and accordingly
    the community was transformed into a commercial corporation in
    1881.

Among the manufactures of Oneida are furniture, silver-plated ware,
engines and machinery, pulley, steel vaults and hosiery. About 6 M. to
the northwest is Oneida Lake, a small lake of considerable beauty, 18 M.
long and 5 M. wide.




                           SYRACUSE TO BUFFALO


290 M. SYRACUSE, Pop. 171,717. (Train 51 passes 2:31p; No. 3, 3:45p; No.
41, 8:10p; No. 25, 8:50p; No. 19, 12:25p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 2:40a;
No. 26, 3:28a; No. 16, 8:30a; No. 22, 10:35a.)

The Syracuse region first became known to Europeans through its salt
deposits along the shore of Onondaga Lake which had been discovered and
used by the Indians.

    Syracuse lies within the ancient tribal headquarters of the
    Onondaga Indians, one of the six tribes forming the League of the
    Iroquois. Their territory extended northward to Lake Ontario and
    southward to the Susquehanna River. They were the official
    guardians of the council fire of the Iroquois, and their chief
    town, near the site of the present Onondaga (a few miles south of
    Syracuse) consisted of some 140 houses. This was in the middle of
    the 17th century, when the tribe was estimated as numbering
    between 1,500 and 1,700. Later the tribe divided, some of them
    migrating to the Catholic Iroquois settlements in Canada. About
    500 Onondagas still live on a reservation south of Syracuse.

Although situated in a favorable trading location at the foot of the
valley of Onondaga Creek where the latter joins Onondaga Lake, no
settlement was made here until several years after the close of the War
of Independence. The first white settler was Ephraim Webster, who built
a trading post near the mouth of the creek in 1786. The village grew
slowly. Between 1800 and 1805 a dozen families settled here, and the
place received the name of Bogardus's Corners from the name of the
proprietor of a local inn. In order to obtain money for the construction
of a public road, the state government, which had assumed control of the
salt fields, sold in 1809 some 250 acres embracing the district now
occupied by Syracuse's business centre to Abraham Walton of Albany for
$6,550--about $26.50 an acre. The town went under various names--Milan,
South Saline, Cossitt's Corner, etc.--until 1824 when the present name
was adopted. In 1818 Joshua Forman bought an interest in the Walton
tract, had a village plotted and became the "founder" of the city.

    [Illustration: Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort

    (_From Champlain's "Nouvelle France," 1619_)

    Of this Indian fort which stood near Lake Oneida, Champlain says:
    "Their village was enclosed with strong quadruple palisades of
    large timber, 30 ft. high, interlocked the one with the other,
    with an interval of not more than half a foot between them; with
    galleries in the form of parapets, defended with double pieces of
    timber, proof against our Arquebuses, and on one side they had a
    pond with a never-failing supply of water, from which proceeded a
    number of gutters which they had laid along the intermediate
    space, throwing the water without and rendering it effectual
    inside for extinguishing fire."]

Several political events of national importance have occurred in
Syracuse. The Free Soil movement in N.Y. began at the Democratic State
convention held here in 1847, when the split occurred between the
"Barnburner" and "Hunker", factions of the Democratic party.

    These factions grew out of a dispute over questions involving the
    Erie Canal. The "Barnburners" were the radical element,
    determined to oust the "reactionaries" in office no matter at
    what cost to the party, and were given their name from the old
    instance of the Pennsylvania farmer who burned his barns to get
    rid of the rats. The "Barnburners" opposed the extension of the
    Erie Canal and, after 1846, the extension of slavery in the
    Territories. The "Hunkers," conservative and influential, were so
    called from the Dutch "honk," which signifies "station" or
    "home." Thus, "honker" or "hunker" meant one who "stayed put,"
    and was opposed to progress.

The famous "Jerry Rescue," manifesting the strong anti-slavery sentiment
in Syracuse, took place in 1851, following the enactment of the Fugitive
Slave Law in 1850.

    In the winter of 1849-50 an intelligent slave arrived in Syracuse
    traveling from Mississippi to Canada. He decided to remain, and
    after having for a while worked under Charles F. Williston, a
    cabinet maker, he opened a little shop of his own. On Oct. 1,
    1851, the slave-hunters pounced on him and shut him up in a
    building then standing on the site of what is now known as the
    Jerry Rescue Block. When, later in the day he was taken before
    William H. Sabine, the United States Commissioner, the room was
    so crowded that Jerry, taking advantage of the fact, succeeded in
    making a break for freedom. Running eastward, he was pursued,
    captured in a hole near the railway tunnel, and taken back to the
    police office. By the time evening came, the fever of the mob was
    high, and Democrats and Whigs joined in planning the slave's
    rescue. A crowd gathered and soon upon walls and doors fell the
    blows of stones, axes, and timbers until the unhappy captors in
    the police office were concerned not for Jerry's retention, but
    for their own safety. One of them jumped from a window on the
    north side of the building, and broke his arm in the fall.
    Finally the official who had immediate charge of Jerry, pushed
    him out into the arms of the rescuers, saying: "Get out of here,
    you damned nigger, if you are making all this muss." The slave
    was safely hidden in the city for ten days, and then driven on
    the first stage of his journey to Canada, where he found at
    length a haven. The act was in bold defiance of the law, and 18
    of the Jerry rescue party were indicted, though never convicted.
    For some years, Jerry's rescue was celebrated annually in
    Syracuse.

Present day Syracuse is built on high ground in an amphitheatre of hills
surrounding Onondaga Lake--a beautiful body of clear water 5 M. long and
1½ M, wide at its broadest point. James St. in the northeastern part of
the city is a fine residence street, and the principal business
thoroughfare is Saline St. The most noteworthy parks in Syracuse are
Barnet Park (100 acres) on high land in the western part of the city,
and Lincoln Park, occupying a heavily wooded ridge to the east.

Syracuse University, with a campus of 100 acres, is situated on the
highlands in the southeastern part of the city where it commands a fine
view of Onondaga Lake. The university was opened in 1871, when the
faculty and students of Genesee College (1850) removed from Lima, N.Y.,
to Syracuse; one year later the Geneva medical college likewise removed
to Syracuse and became part of the university. The university has a
number of excellent buildings and a fine athletic field. It is a
co-educational institution under control of the Methodist Episcopal
Church. There are about 4,000 students. The N.Y. State Fair, a civic
event of considerable importance, takes place yearly (in Sept.) in
grounds situated on the western border of the city. The "plant" covers
100 acres and there is an excellent race track where famous horses are
run.

Salt works were established in Syracuse as early as 1788 and the
production of salt and sodium derivatives still constitutes an important
industry.

    For many years Syracuse was the principal seat of the salt
    industry in the United States, but the development of salt
    deposits in other parts of N.Y. State and in Michigan caused a
    decline in the Onondaga product, though Syracuse still produced
    2,000,000 bushels of salt a year. The Onondaga deposits were
    mentioned in the journal of the French Jesuit Lemoyne in 1653,
    and before the Revolutionary War the Indians marketed salt at
    Albany and Quebec. In 1788 the state undertook, by treaty with
    the Onondaga Indians, to care for the salt springs and manage
    them for the benefit of both the whites and the Indians. By
    another treaty (1795) the state bought the salt lands, covering
    about 10 Sq. M., paying the Indians $1,000 outright, supplemented
    by an annual payment of $700 and 150 bushels of salt.
    Subsequently the state leased the lands, charging at various
    times a royalty of 4 to 12½ cents a bushel. It was stipulated in
    1797 that the lessees should not sell the product for more than
    60 cents a bushel. In 1898, after the royalty had been reduced to
    1 cent a bushel, the state ordered the sale of the salt lands
    because the revenue was less than the expense of keeping up the
    works. The actual sale, however, did not take place till 1908.
    Annual production reached its highest point in 1862, with
    9,000,000 bushels.

The salt deposits supplied the basis for the manufacture of soda-ash,
and at the village of Solvay, adjoining Syracuse on the west, is one of
the largest factories for this purpose in the world. Besides soda-ash it
produces bicarbonate of soda, caustic soda and crystals, the total
output being about 1,000 tons daily. Syracuse ranks among the leading
cities of the state in the number and variety of its manufactures. There
are 760 establishments employing 25,000 workers, with an annual output
of the value of about $75,000,000. The manufacture of typewriters is an
important industry (annual production $10,000,000). Other products
include automobiles and accessories, tool steel, candles, farm
implements, clothing, chinaware, cement, chemicals and mining machinery.


348 M. PALMYRA, Pop. 2,480. (Train 51 passes 3:38p; No. 3, 4:57p; No.
41, 9:30p; No. 25, 9:56p; No. 19, 1:42a. Eastbound No. 6 passes 1:25a;
No. 26, 2:17a; No. 16, 6:46a; No. 22, 9:14a.)

The town of Palmyra is intimately connected with the early history of
the Mormons or "Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints." Joseph
Smith (1805-1844), the founder, lived a few miles south of Palmyra at
the village of Manchester near which, in the "hill of Cumorah," he said
he found the plates of gold upon which was inscribed the book of Mormon.
Smith had the book printed in 1830 in Palmyra.

    [Illustration: Joseph Smith Preaching

    (_From an old Mormon print_)

    Joseph Smith (1805-1877) early began to gather his proselytes
    about him, and even succeeded in interesting a few bewildered
    Indians, but the new sect had great difficulties, aggravated, it
    is said, by the licentiousness of the founder. Persecuted in N.Y.
    State, Smith sought to found his New Jerusalem in Ohio, where,
    however, the natives objected with such definiteness to his way of
    salvation that he and one of his followers were tarred and
    feathered in Hiram, O. Missouri was chosen as the next place of
    refuge, but here, too, Smith's profligacy aroused the hostility of
    the Missourians, which was increased by propaganda among the
    Mormons for a "war of extermination against the Gentiles." In
    Illinois, whither many of the "Saints" now removed, Smith had a
    revelation approving polygamy, which pleased him very much, but
    which roused opposition among his followers as well as his
    persecutors. In 1844 he and his brother Hyrum were arrested on a
    charge of treason in the town of Nauvoo which they had founded and
    imprisoned at Carthage. On the night of June 27, a mob, with the
    collusion of the militia guard, broke into the jail and shot the
    two men dead. In the meantime there had arisen a leader of
    considerable genius, Brigham Young (1801-1877), who probably saved
    the sect from dissolution, and led them to Salt Lake City in 1844.]

    Joseph Smith was born at Sharon, Vt., Dec. 23, 1805, from which
    place in 1815 his parents removed to N.Y. State, settling first
    near Palmyra and later at Manchester. Both his parents and
    grandparents were superstitious, neurotic, seers of visions, and
    believers in miraculous cures, heavenly voices and direct
    revelation. The boy's father was a digger for hidden treasure,
    and used a divining rod to find the proper place to dig wells. He
    taught his son crystal gazing and the use of the "peepstone" to
    discover hidden treasure. Young Joseph was good-natured and lazy.
    Early in life he began to have visions which were accompanied by
    epileptic "seizures." One night in 1823, according to his story,
    the angel Moroni appeared to him three times, and told him that
    the Bible of the western continent, the supplement to the New
    Testament, was buried on a hill called Cumorah, now commonly
    known as Mormon Hill. It was not until 1827, however, that he
    discovered this new Bible. Smith's story was that on the 22nd of
    September of that year, he dug up on the hill near Manchester a
    stone box in which was a volume 6 inches thick made of thin gold
    plates, 8 inches by 8 inches, fastened together by three gold
    rings. The plates were covered with small writing in characters
    of the "reformed Egyptian tongue." With the golden book Smith
    claimed he found a breastplate of gold and a pair of supernatural
    spectacles, consisting of two crystals set in a silver bow, by
    the aid of which he could read the mystic characters. Being
    himself unable to read or write fluently, Smith dictated a
    translation of the book from behind a screen. Soon afterwards,
    according to Smith, the plates were taken away by the angel
    Moroni.


370 M. ROCHESTER, Pop. 295,750. (Train 51 passes 4:05p; No. 3, 5:25p;
No. 41, 9:56p; No. 25, 10:23p; No. 19, 2:11p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
12:59a; No. 26, 1:51a; No. 16, 6:18a; No. 22, 8:47a.)

Rochester is built around the Falls of the Genesee River, about 7 M.
above the place where the river empties into Lake Ontario.

    [Illustration: Rochester in 1812

    Settlers from New England made a clearing at the site of Rochester
    about 1810, but growth was slow until the railroad--now the New
    York Central--was built connecting it with Albany and Buffalo.]

    The Genesee River rises in Pennsylvania and flows nearly 200
    miles in a northerly direction through western New York. Within a
    distance of 7 M. between Rochester and Lake Ontario the river has
    a fall of 263 ft. The principal falls consist of three cataracts,
    96, 26 and 83 ft., respectively. The banks of the first fall,
    which is in the heart of the city, rise to a height of 200 ft.
    above the river. The river, in fact, cuts through the center of
    the city in a deep gorge, the banks of which vary in height from
    50 to 200 ft. The Genesee Valley south of Rochester is a very
    fertile and beautiful stretch of country where the river flows
    between meadows that rise gradually to high hills. The appearance
    of the country here, with its immense pasture-land dotted with
    oak and elm, is distinctly English. Besides being exceedingly
    productive both for crops and pasturage, the Genesee Valley is
    famous as riding country, although the hunting interest has of
    late somewhat waned. But foxes are still found, and the flats
    along the river give wonderful opportunities for the chase.

The modern city, however, has spread north until it now embraces the
large village of Charlotte on the western side of the mouth of the
river. The region about Rochester was visited about 1650 by Jesuit
missionaries who worked among the Seneca Indians in the neighborhood,
and in 1687 the Marquis de Denonville fought a battle with the Iroquois
near the Falls.

    The Senecas were members of the League of the Iroquois and
    eventually became one of the most important tribes of that
    league. Their territory lay between the Seneca Lake and the
    Genesee River and they were the official guardians of the
    league's western frontier. At the height of their power they
    extended their range to the country west of Lake Erie and south
    along the Alleghany River to Pennsylvania They fought on the
    English side in the War of Independence. About 2,800 are now on
    reservations in New York State.

    Jacques René de Bresay, marquis of Denonville, succeeded La
    Barre, who succeeded Frontenac, as governor of Canada in 1689. La
    Barre, an inefficient leader against the insurgent Iroquois, held
    the administration for only one year. Denonville was of great
    courage and ability, but in his campaign against the Indians
    treated them so cruelly that they were angered, not intimidated.
    The terrible massacre of the French by the Iroquois at Lachine,
    Quebec, in 1689, must be regarded as one of the results of his
    expedition. In 1687 he built Fort Denonville, which was abandoned
    during the following year when an epidemic wiped out its
    garrison.

Although by 1710 the French had established a post on Irondequoit Bay
not far from the mouth of the Genesee, it was not until Ebenezer Allan
(called "Indian Allan") built a small saw and grist mill near the falls
that a settlement began to grow up. In 1802 three Maryland proprietors,
Charles Carroll, William Fitzhugh and Nathaniel Rochester acquired a
large tract of land which included the site of the present city.
Rochester, from whom the city took its name, established a settlement,
largely of New Englanders, at the falls in 1810-12, but growth was slow,
as it was not at that time on the direct road between Albany and
Buffalo, and the region was malarial.

    Nathaniel Rochester (1752-1831) was a native of Virginia. He had
    been a manufacturer of Hagerstown, Md., and after settling in
    Rochester in 1818 was elected to the N.Y. Assembly (1822).

The completion of the Rochester and Lockport section of the Erie Canal
gave Rochester the impetus which made it a city, and the building of the
railroad a few years later placed it on the direct route between the
Hudson and Lake Erie.

    The course of the old Erie Canal lay through the heart of the
    city. It crossed the Genesee River by means of an aqueduct of
    seven arches, 850 ft. long, with a channel 45 ft. wide. The
    aqueduct cost $600,000. The new barge canal passes through the
    city about three miles south of the old canal, and has a harbor
    in connection with the Genesee River, which is dammed for that
    purpose.

Rochester, between 1828 and 1830, was the centre of the anti-Masonic
movement and here Thurlow Weed published his _Anti-Masonic Enquirer_.

    The Anti-Masonic party arose after the disappearance in 1826 of
    William Morgan (1776-1826), a Freemason of Batavia, N.Y., who had
    become dissatisfied with the order and had planned to publish its
    secrets. When his purpose became known, Morgan was subjected to
    frequent annoyances, and finally in September, 1826, he was
    seized and conveyed by stealth to Ft. Niagara, where he
    disappeared. His ultimate fate was never known, though it was
    believed at the time that he had been murdered. The event created
    great excitement, and furnished the occasion for the formation of
    a new party in N.Y. This new party was in fact a rehabilitation
    of the Adams wing of the Democratic-Republican party, a feeble
    organization, into which shrewd political leaders breathed new
    life by utilizing the Anti-Masonic feeling. The party spread into
    other middle states and into New England; in 1827 the N.Y.
    leaders tried, unsuccessfully, to persuade Henry Clay, though a
    Mason, to renounce the order and become the party's candidate for
    president. In 1831 the Anti-Masons nominated William Wirt of
    Maryland, and in the election they secured the seven electoral
    votes of Vermont. In the following year the organization grew
    moribund, most of its members joining the Whigs. Its last act in
    national politics was to nominate William Henry Harrison for
    president in Nov. 1838.

Subsequently, Rochester became the centre of the Abolitionist movement
in New York State and for many years before the Civil War it was a busy
station on the "Underground railroad," by which fugitive slaves were
assisted in escaping to Canada. The fervor of the movement gave
prominence to Frederick Douglass (1817-1895), the mulatto orator and
editor, who established a newspaper in Rochester in 1847, and to whom a
monument has been erected near the approach of the New York Central
Station. The city was a gathering place for suffragists from the time
when Susan B. Anthony settled here in 1846.

    Susan Brownell Anthony (1820-1906), born at Adams, Mass., was the
    daughter of Quaker parents. Her family moved to N.Y. State where,
    from the time she was 17 until she was 32, she taught school. She
    took a prominent part in the Anti-slavery and Temperance
    movements in New York, and after 1854 devoted herself almost
    exclusively to the agitation for women's rights. She was
    vice-president-at-large of the National Women's Suffragist
    Association from 1869-1892, when she became president. She was
    arrested and fined $100 (which she never paid) for casting a vote
    at the presidential election in 1872. She contended that the 14th
    Amendment entitled her to vote, and when she told the court she
    would not pay her fine, the judge simply let her go. The case
    created much comment.

In Rochester also lived the famous Fox Sisters, Margaret (1836-1893)
and Katharine, whose spiritualistic "demonstrations" became known in
1850 as the "Rochester Rappings." The city has been a centre for
American spiritualists ever since.

    [Illustration: Kate Fox (_From a daguerreotype_)

    The demonstrations of the famous Fox sisters began in the
    following way: in 1847 the Fox family moved to a house near
    Rochester believed to be haunted, from which tenant after tenant
    had moved out, alarmed by mysterious rappings. The Foxes did not
    hear these sounds until 1848, and then Kate, hardly more than a
    child, began questioning the rappings, and having opened what
    seemed to be intelligent communication, suggested the use of the
    alphabet. That was the beginning of what spiritualists call the
    "science of materialization." The exhibitions consisted of the
    usual phenomena, table turning, spirit rapping and the moving of
    large bodies by invisible means. The two young women gave public
    séances throughout the country, arousing an interest that spread
    to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of imposture which
    she later retracted. Claiming to be the wife of Dr. Elisha Kent
    Kane, the Arctic explorer, she published a book of his letters
    under the "Love Life of Dr. Kane." He had met her between voyages
    of exploration, fallen in love with her, and in one of the
    published letters addressed her as "my wife," but even she admits
    that there never was a formal wedding. He died at Havana in 1857.]

    Modern spiritualism is generally dated from the "demonstrations"
    produced by the Fox Sisters. These exhibitions consisted of the
    usual spiritualistic phenomena: table turning, spirit rapping and
    the moving of large bodies by invisible means. The sisters gave
    public séances through the country, and interest in spiritualism
    spread to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of
    imposture, which she later retracted. She claimed to be the wife
    of Dr. Elisha Kent Kane, the Arctic explorer, and published a
    book of his letters under the title of the "Love Life of Dr.
    Kane." Kane had begun his career as an explorer when he was
    appointed surgeon and naturalist for the Grinnell expedition in
    1850, which set out to search for Sir John Franklin, who was lost
    somewhere in the North. After spending 16 fruitless months of
    search, they returned, but Kane fitted out a new expedition of
    which he was given command, and spent two winters in polar
    exploration and collection of scientific data. The voyage lasted
    years and brought him fame. It was between these voyages that he
    met Margaret Fox, and in one of the published letters he
    addressed her as "my wife," though there seems never to have been
    a formal wedding. He died in 1857 at Havana.

Rochester is an attractive city, with a park system comprising 1,649
acres. The largest parks are the Durand-Eastman, the Genesee Valley,
Seneca, Maplewood and Highland. The Durand-Eastman Park occupies a
beautiful tract of wooded ground on Lake Ontario.

The University of Rochester, founded 1851 as a Baptist institution, but
now non-sectarian, occupies a tract of 24 acres on University Ave. in
the eastern part of the city. Notable men who have been connected with
the university include Henry Augustus Ward, professor of natural history
from 1860 to 1875; Martin Brewer Anderson, president from 1854 to 1888,
and David Jayne Hill, president from 1888 to 1896.

    David Jayne Hill was born at Plainfield, N.J., June 16, 1850.
    After obtaining his first degree at the University of Bucknell,
    Pa., he studied for his A.M. in Berlin and Paris. He was
    president of the University of Rochester from 1888 to 1896, then
    spent 3 years in the study of the public law of Europe. As one
    peculiarly fitted by education and training for a diplomatic
    career, he was minister first to Switzerland (1903-1905), then to
    the Netherlands (1905) and from 1908 to 1911 ambassador to
    Germany. His numerous writings cover a wide field in biography,
    rhetoric, diplomacy, history and philosophy.

    [Illustration: Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850

    (_From a print in the N.Y. Public Library_)

    For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling
    centre in the country, owing to the valuable water power furnished
    by the falls and the fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee
    Valley.]

Rochester Theological Seminary prepares students for the ministry of
the Baptist Church, and has no organic connection with the university.
The Mechanics' Institute, founded in 1885 by Henry Lomb of the
Bausch-Lomb Optical Co., is an unusually successful school of trades and
handicrafts. It occupies a large building, the gift of George Eastman of
the Eastman Kodak Co.

For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling centre in
the country, owing to the valuable water furnished by the falls and the
fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee Valley. Flour milling is no
longer so important an industry here--Minneapolis having taken first
rank in this respect--but Rochester ranks high among the great
manufacturing cities of the country. Its total output is valued at more
than $250,000,000 annually. It leads the world in the manufacture of
cameras, lenses, and photographic materials, and it is one of the
principal cities of the country in the distribution of seeds, bulbs and
plants, and in the manufacture of clothing and shoes. Other important
products are machinery of various kinds, lubricating oil, candied
fruits, syrups and confectionery clothing, tobacco and cigars, enameled
tanks and filing devices.


403 M. BATAVIA, Pop. 13,541. (Train 51 passes 4:45p; No. 3, 6:18p; No.
41, 10:45p; No. 25, 11:04p; No. 19, 3:03a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
12:17a; No. 26, 1:12a; No. 16, 5:32a; No. 22, 8:04a.)

Batavia, situated on Tonawanda Creek, was laid out in 1801 by Joseph
Ellicott (1760-1826), the engineer who had been engaged in surveying the
land known as the "Holland Purchase" of which Batavia was a part.

    The so-called "Holland Purchase" comprised nearly all the land in
    Western N.Y. west of the Genesee River. Its history is associated
    with Robert Morris (1734-1806), the Revolutionary merchant and
    banker whose financial assistance had been invaluable to the
    Colonies during the War of Independence. Morris acquired the
    Holland Purchase from the Indians in 1791, after having obtained
    permission from the State of Mass. which then claimed sovereignty
    over this territory. The following year, however, he began to be
    involved in financial misfortunes and was compelled to sell this
    property to a group of Dutch capitalists, who undertook to
    dispose of the land to settlers. It thus became known as the
    Holland Purchase, and the Holland Land Office in Batavia was one
    of the centers from which the operations of the Dutch Land
    company were directed. The slow development of Morris's other
    property and the failure of a London bank in which he had funds
    invested, finally drove him into bankruptcy, and he was confined
    in a debtor's prison for more than three years (1798-1801). The
    old Holland Land Office was dedicated as a memorial to Robert
    Morris in 1894.

Here lived William Morgan whose supposed murder in 1826 by Freemasons
led to the organization of the Anti-Masonic party. Batavia was the home
of Dean Richmond (1804-1866), a capitalist, successful shipper and
wholesale dealer in farm produce, who became vice-president (1853-1864)
and later president (1864-1866) of the New York Central Lines. He was
likewise a prominent leader of the Democratic party in N.Y. State. In
1899 his widow, Mary E. Richmond, erected here in memory of a son a
library which contains about 15,000 volumes.

Among the education institutions here are the N.Y. State School for the
Blind and St. Joseph's Academy (Roman Catholic). The historical museum
in the old Holland Land Office* contains a good collection of early
state relics. The two old guns in front were cast in the N.Y. State
Arsenal, which manufactured arms for use in the War of 1812.

Among the manufactures are harvesters, ploughs, threshers and other
agricultural implements, firearms, rubber tires, shoes, shell goods,
paper-boxes, and inside woodwork.

We now approach Buffalo, beyond which our route closely parallels Lake
Erie. We thus get our first view of one of America's great inland seas
in this part of the route, although at certain points between Syracuse
and Buffalo (notably at Rochester) our train has passed only a few miles
south of Lake Ontario.

    The five Great Lakes--Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and
    Ontario--lie between the U.S. and Canada and form the headwaters
    of the St. Lawrence River system. They cover an area of 94,000
    Sq. M. The Great Lakes date back to Glacial period or before, but
    it is probable that a "warping" of the earth's crust and a
    consequent reversal of drainage areas have been among the most
    potent causes of the formation of these great inland seas. Some
    of the most salient facts about the Great Lakes are given in the
    following table:

                                         The Great Lakes

                              Superior  Michigan   Huron   Erie  Ontario
    Greatest Length (M.)           360       307     206    241      193
    Greatest Breadth (M.)          160       118     101     57       53
    Deepest Soundings (Ft.)      1,012       870     750    210      738
    Area (Sq. M.)               32,060    22,336  22,978  9,968    7,243
    Above sea level (Ft.)          602       581     581    572      246
    U.S. shore line (M.)           735     1,200     470    350      230

    The population of the states and provinces bordering on the Great
    Lakes is estimated to be 50,000,000 or more. In Pennsylvania and
    Ohio, south of Lake Erie, there are large coal fields.
    Surrounding Lake Michigan and west of Lake Superior are vast
    grain growing plains, and the prairies of the Canadian northwest
    are constantly increasing the area and quantity of wheat grown;
    while both north and south of Lake Superior are the most
    extensive iron mines in the world, from which approximately
    55,000,000 tons of ore are shipped annually. The Great Lakes
    provide a natural highway for the shipment of all these products.




                          BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND


439 M. BUFFALO, Pop. 506,775. (Train 51 arrives 5:30p; No. 3, passes
7:15p; No. 41, 11:45p; No. 25, 11:51p; No. 19, 3:55a. Eastbound: No. 6
passes 11:31p; No. 26, 12:27a; No. 16, 4:35a; No. 22, 7:15a.)

French trappers and Jesuit missionaries were the first white men to
visit the site of Buffalo, and near here, on the east bank of the
Niagara River at the mouth of Cayuga Creek, La Salle in 1679 built the
"Griffin," with which he sailed up the Great Lakes to Green Bay, Wis. He
also built Ft. Conti at the mouth of the river, but this was burned in
the following year. Seven years later the marquis of Denonville in
behalf of the French built here another fort, the predecessor of the
various fortifications in this locality which were subsequently called
Ft. Niagara.

    [Illustration: Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815]

Although the neighborhood was the scene of various operations during the
War of Independence, not a single white settler was living on the site
of the present city when the federal constitution was adopted in 1787,
and the town was not laid out till after the second presidency of
Washington. In 1801 Joseph Ellicott, sometimes called the "Father of
Buffalo," plotted the site for a town, calling it New Amsterdam but the
name of Buffalo Creek or Buffalo proved more popular. Ellicott was the
agent of a group of Dutch capitalists called the Holland Land Co., who
purchased a large tract of land for speculative purposes in the
neighborhood of Buffalo (1792).

    At an early period (1784) the present site of the city of Buffalo
    had come to be known as the "Buffalo Creek region," either from
    the herds of buffalo or bison, which, according to Indian
    tradition, had frequented the salt licks of the creek, or more
    probably for some Indian chief.

During the War of 1812 Buffalo was a frontier town, and, owing to its
position on Lake Erie, very close to an important theater of operations.
The first gun of the war is said to have been fired on Aug. 13, by a
battery at Black Rock, then a rival, now a suburb of Buffalo, and
shortly afterwards British soldiers from the Canadian garrison at Ft.
Erie (directly across the Niagara River from Buffalo) made a raid into
Buffalo harbour and captured the schooner "Connecticut." The Americans
replied with a brilliant exploit in which Lieut. Jesse D. Elliott
(1782-1845) crossed the river and captured the "Detroit" and the
"Caledonia" under the guns of Ft. Erie.

    The ruins of Ft. Erie are among the most picturesque features of
    the region about Buffalo. The fort was captured in 1814 by an
    American force under Gen. Winfield Scott, and was held by the
    Americans till the end of the war, despite the efforts of a
    British besieging force to dislodge them. At the close of
    hostilities the Americans blew up the fort.

In the following spring (1812) five of the gunboats used by Capt. Perry
at the Battle of Lake Erie were fitted out in the harbour at Buffalo.
Perry's victory, however, did not save the little settlement from an
attack in Dec. of that year in which Gen. Sir Phineas Riall and a force
of 1,200 British and Indians captured the town and almost completely
destroyed it. After the war the town was rebuilt, and grew rapidly.
In 1818, near where La Salle in 1679 built his little sailing
vessel, the "Griffin," a group of N.Y. capitalists completed the
"Walk-in-the-Water," the first steamboat on the Great Lakes. The
completion of the Erie Canal, seven years later, with Buffalo as its
western terminus, greatly increased the city's importance. At Buffalo in
1848 met the Free Soil convention that nominated Martin Van Buren for
the presidency and Charles Francis Adams for the vice-presidency.
Grover Cleveland lived in Buffalo from 1855 until 1884, when he was
elected president.

    Stephen Grover Cleveland (1837-1908) was born, fifth in a family
    of nine children, in the town of Caldwell, Essex County, N.J. He
    came of good colonial stock, but the death of his father
    prevented his receiving a college education. About 1855 he
    drifted westward with $25 in his pocket, and not long afterward
    began to read law in a law office in Buffalo, where he was
    admitted to the bar in 1859. He was assistant district attorney
    of Erie County, of which Buffalo is the chief city, in 1863, was
    elected sheriff on the Democratic ticket in 1869, and mayor of
    Buffalo in 1881, although the city was normally Republican. As
    mayor he attracted wide attention by his independence and
    business-like methods--qualities which distinguished his entire
    career. After his election as governor in the following year, the
    Democratic party chose him as their candidate against James G.
    Blaine. He was the first Democrat to be elected president for 24
    years. His administration was marked by firmness and justice; he
    stood staunchly by the new civil service law, and during his
    first term vetoed 413 bills, more than two-thirds of which were
    private pension bills. He vigorously attacked the high tariff
    laws then in effect, but the administration tariff bill was
    blocked by his Republican opponents. In 1888 Cleveland was
    defeated for re-election by Benjamin Harrison, but in 1892 he was
    again nominated and defeated President Harrison by a large
    majority. The most important event of his second administration
    was the repeal of the silver legislation which had been a growing
    menace for 15 years. The panic of 1893 was accompanied by an
    outbreak of labor troubles, the most serious of which was the
    Pullman strike at Chicago (1894). When Gov. Altgeld of Illinois
    failed to act, President Cleveland sent troops to Chicago to
    clear the way for mail trains, and the strike was settled within
    a week. He also acted decisively in the Venezuela affair, with
    the result that Great Britain agreed to arbitrate on terms which
    safeguarded the national dignity on both sides. At the end of his
    term, Cleveland retired to Princeton, N.J.

The Pan-American Exposition in celebration of the progress of the
Western Hemisphere in the 19th century, was held here May 1-Nov. 2,
1901. It was during a reception in the Temple of Music on the Exposition
grounds that President McKinley was assassinated on Sept. 6. He died at
the home of John A. Milburn, the president of the exposition.

    President McKinley's assassin was Leon Czolgosz, a young man of
    Polish parentage, who shot the president with a revolver at close
    range. For a while it was thought that the president would
    recover, but he collapsed and died on Sept. 14, 1901. Czolgosz
    professed to belong to the school of anarchists who believe in
    violence. He was executed in October, 1901.

Buffalo today has broad and spacious streets and a park system (1,229
acres) of unusual beauty. The largest park is Delaware Park (362 acres),
on the north side of the city. This park is adjoined on the south by the
Forest Lawn Cemetery which contains monuments to Millard Fillmore and
the Indian chief "Red Jacket."

    Millard Fillmore (1800-1874), 13th president of the U.S., was
    born in East Aurora, a little village 14 M. from Buffalo, and
    practiced law in Buffalo. He served several terms as member of
    Congress and in 1848 was elected vice-president on the Whig
    ticket, with Zachery Taylor as president. President Taylor died
    July 9, 1850, and on the next day Fillmore took the oath of
    office as his successor. He favored the "Compromise Measures,"
    designed to pacify the South, and signed the Fugitive Slave Law.
    In 1852 he was an unsuccessful candidate for nomination for the
    presidency at the Whig National Convention.

    Red Jacket (1751-1830) was a famous Seneca chief and friend of
    the whites. He was faithful to the whites when approached by
    Tecumseh and the "Prophet" in their scheme to combine all of the
    Indians from Canada to Florida in a great Confederacy. In the War
    of 1812, he assisted the Americans. By many he was considered the
    greatest orator of his race.

To the west of the park are the grounds of the Buffalo State Hospital
for the Insane. Overlooking the lake on a cliff 60 ft. high, is the park
known as "The Front," the site of Ft. Porter, which has a garrison of
U.S. Soldiers.

The University of Buffalo, organized in 1845, has about 1,000 students
and comprises schools of medicine, law, dentistry and pharmacy. Other
educational institutions of Buffalo are the Canisius College, a Roman
Catholic (Jesuit) institution for men, and the Martin Luther Seminary, a
Theological seminary of the Evangelical Lutheran Church. Buffalo has
several fine public buildings, including the Albright Art Gallery (white
marble), the Buffalo Historical Society Building (in Delaware Park), the
Public Library (valued at $1,000,000), and the City Hall and County
Building ($1,500,000). Since 1914 Buffalo has been under the commission
form of government.

Almost equidistant from Chicago and N.Y.C., the city of Buffalo, by
reason of its favorable location in respect to lake transportation and
its position on the principal northern trade route between the East and
the West, has become one of the important commercial and industrial
centres in the Union. Originally, the harbour was only the shallow mouth
of the Buffalo River, but it has been greatly enlarged and improved by
extensive federal work. The Welland Canal, about 25 M. west of Buffalo,
connects Lake Erie with the St. Lawrence River. The annual tonnage of
the port of Buffalo is upwards of 20,000,000 tons. The total export
trade is close to $100,000,000. Besides being the first port in the
country in handling horses, sheep, cattle and hogs, it receives immense
quantities of lumber, pig iron and ore and has more than a score of huge
grain elevators with a capacity of about 30,000,000 bushels.

In the manufacturing field it has two great advantages: a supply of
natural gas and almost unlimited electric power from Niagara Falls. Its
total annual output is valued at approximately $400,000,000, and its
manufactures include meat packing, foundry and machine shop products,
flour, steel, linseed oil, railroad cars, clothing, chemicals,
furniture, automobiles, jewelry, confectionery and tobacco.

Buffalo is connected with the Canadian shore by ferry and by the
International Bridge, completed in 1873 at a cost of $1,500,000.

Niagara Falls, while it is not on the main route to Chicago is best
reached from Buffalo, from which it is only 32 miles distant, and
travellers so easily can stop over to make the little side trip that it
is virtually a part of the journey westward.

    [Illustration: The fall of Niagara in the Province of New York.
    A Colonial Print (1762) in the N.Y. Public Library]


Niagara Falls.

Of the seven natural wonders of the American world, which are given as
Yellowstone Park, Garden of the Gods, Mammoth Cave, Niagara Falls, the
Natural Bridge, Yosemite Valley, and the Giant Trees of California, by
far the greatest spectacle is Niagara. The name means "thunder of the
waters," and was given by the early Indians who regarded the falls with
a quite comprehensible religious awe. Today there are more than a
million and a half visitors annually.

Probably the first white man to discover the Falls was Etienne Brulé, an
associate and trusted comrade of Champlain; but the first chronicler and
the man to whom honour of discovery is usually given, is Father
Hennepin, founder of the monastery at Ft. Frontenac in Quebec, who in
1678 joined La Salle's Mississippi expedition, and pushing on a few days
journey ahead of his commander, came upon the wonderful waters described
in his _Louisiane Nouvelle_ (1698). The French built some trading posts
here and their influence prevailed until 1759, when the British, driving
the French northward overthrew their fortifications and took possession
of the land. When the Revolution broke out some years later, the
Indians, terrible and unscrupulous wagers of guerilla warfare, fought on
the British side.

The Niagara River, upon which the Falls are situated, 22 M. from its
head in Lake Erie, and 14 M. from its mouth in Lake Ontario, forms the
outlet of four of the five Great Lakes (Erie, Huron, Michigan and
Superior). It descends about 330 ft. in its course of 36 M. About 15 M.
from Lake Erie the river narrows and the rapids begin. In the last three
quarters of a mile above the falls, the water descends 55 ft. and the
velocity is enormous. The basin of the Falls has a depth of from 100 to
192 ft. During cold winters the spray covers the grass and trees in the
park along the cliff with a delicate veneer of ice, while below the
Falls it is tossed up and frozen into a solid arch. Adjoining the left
(Canadian) bank is the greater division, Horseshoe Fall, 155 ft. high
and curving to a breadth of 2,600 ft. The American Fall, adjoining the
right bank, is 162 ft. high and about 1,400 ft. broad. In recognition of
their æsthetic value the province of Ontario and the State of New York
have reserved the adjacent land as public parks. In the midst of the
Rapids lies a little group of islands, among them the famous Goat
Island. Besides the wonderful view it affords, its western end gives a
unique example of absolutely virgin forest.

    The Indians used to fish and hunt, crossing the Rapids on foot
    and supporting their steps with tall wooden poles spiked with
    iron. The necessity, on one occasion, of saving two marooned
    comrades on the island, taught them this means of crossing, which
    they had never before attempted.

The Niagara River runs half its length on an upper plain, then drops at
the falls into a narrow gorge through which it courses seven miles to
the escarpment, the crest of which is a bed of limestone--60 ft. thick
at the falls. The water plunges into a deep basin hollowed out of soft
shale, which, as well as the escarpment, is being constantly worn away.
The site of the cataract retreats upstream and the gorge is lengthened
at a rate of about five ft. a year. It is evident that the whole gorge
has been dug out by the river, and many attempts have been made to
determine the time consumed in the work. The solution of the problem
would aid in establishing a relation between the periods and ages of
geologic time and the centuries of human chronology. The Horseshoe Fall
wore its cliff back 335 ft. in about 63 years. Geologists have computed
25,000 years as a lower limit for plausible estimates of the river, but
have been able to set no upper limit.

The Canadian and American shores are connected by three bridges, one of
which a suspension carrying all classes of traffic, is 1,240 ft. long.
The flow of water in the river averages 222,000 cubic ft. per second,
though it sometimes falls as low as 176,000 cubic ft.

    On March 29, 1848, Niagara ran dry, and persons walked in the
    rocky channel bed of the American Rapids between Goat Island and
    the mainland. This phenomenon, never known before or since, was
    due to these facts. Lake Erie was full of floating ice flowing to
    its outlet, the source of Niagara River. During the previous
    afternoon a heavy northeast wind had driven the ice back into the
    lake, and during the night the wind, suddenly veering, blew a
    gale from the west which forced the ice floe sharply into a mass
    in the narrow channel of the river, where it froze. Thus, when
    the water on the lower side of the barrier drained off, the
    Niagara River and the American Fall were dry, and the Canadian
    Fall a mere trickle. This extraordinary condition lasted for a
    whole day.

Thus the descent of this stream at the Falls and in the Rapids just
above them gives in theory a water-power of nearly 4,000,000 lip.,
three-fourths of which is estimated as available.

    This maximum could be obtained only by sacrificing the beauty of
    the Falls--in fact diverting the river from its channel so that
    the cataract as a scenic feature would be destroyed. To combat
    this commercial vandalism an association for the protection of
    the Falls has been formed.

There were before 1918 several companies with power-producing plants,
the largest of which was the Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power and
Manufacturing Company.

    This company had made an extensive beginning in utilization of
    the water fall by a tunnel 29 ft. deep and 18 ft. wide, passing
    about 200 ft.. below the surface of the city from a point 1¼ M.
    above the Falls to the upper steel arch bridge.

In 1918, when added power was needed for the more rapid production of
war materials, the various companies consolidated with the Niagara Falls
Power Company. In May of that year the intake from the Niagara River and
the hydraulic canal were deepened, and three hydro-electric units--the
largest in the world today--were installed, with the result that an
extension of 100,000 hp. was developed, making the total of the station
250,000 hp.


510 M. DUNKIRK, Pop. 19,366. (Train 3 passes 8:23p; No. 41, 1:00a; No.
25, 12:45a; No. 19, 4:57a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 10:24p; No. 26,
11:26p; No. 16, 3:10a; No. 22, 6:08a.)

Dunkirk, settled about 1805, has a fine harbour and extensive lake
trade, and lies, moreover, in fertile agricultural and grape-growing
country. The property of the town, assessed at $10,000,000 is chiefly in
factories producing locomotives, radiators and other steel and iron
products, wagons, silk gloves, and concrete blocks. There are several
pleasant parks, of which Gratiot and Washington are the largest. Brocton
(519 M.) and Westfield (526 M.) are junctions for travellers bound for
Chautauqua (about 20 M. south of Brocton on Chautauqua Lake), the
principal seat of the Chautauqua educational movement.

    The Chautauqua movement, instituted more than 46 years ago in the
    west, has here its largest station. Each summer 15,000 or 20,000
    people from all over the country assemble here to take courses in
    a great variety of subjects, from Italian Primitivism to Camp
    Cookery. Chautauqua makes its chief appeal, perhaps, to the
    middle-aged and elderly who in their youth were working too hard
    to have had any opportunities for study.

Just beyond Ripley (534 M.) we cross the state line into Pennsylvania.


557 M. ERIE, Pop. 93,372. (Train 3 passes 9:30p; No. 41, 2:06a; No. 25,
1:36a; No. 19, 5:59a. Eastbound No. 6 passes 9:25p; No. 26, 10:30p; No.
16, 2:03a; No. 22, 5:08a.)

Erie stands on the site of the old French fort Presque Isle, built in
1753 and surrounded by a village of a few hundred inhabitants. Although
Washington protested on behalf of the Governor of Va. against the French
occupation of this territory, it remained in French hands until 1758
when an epidemic of small-pox broke out, making the fort untenable. Two
years later the British seized it, and three years after the Indians,
rising against their white rulers in the Conspiracy of Pontiac, took
possession. In 1765 the British recaptured the fort and kept it until
1785, when it passed into the possession of the U.S. Gen. Anthony Wayne,
who was given the task of occupying the lake posts delivered up by the
English, came here soon after to negotiate the famous treaty of
Greenville with the Indians in 1795. He died in 1796 at Erie.

    [Illustration: Old Block House At Erie

    (From a Painting by Dr. Thomas B. Stuart)

    Certain hostile tribes in northwest of Ohio who had defeated Gen.
    St. Clair in 1791, sent away in scorn a mission asking permission
    for white men to settle beyond the Ohio (1793). Wayne, angry at
    this insolence, gathered together some troops of the recently
    organized American army and after having given the Indians one
    more chance of a peaceable settlement, defeated them thoroughly
    in the battle of Fallen Timbers, 80 miles north of Cincinnati. By
    the resulting treaty of Greenville, he opened up the northwest to
    civilization.]

In spite of the necessary severity of the punishment meted out to the
Indians by the new government through the agency of Wayne, no part of
Washington's administration, domestic or foreign, was more original or
more benign than the policy he constantly urged toward them. To save
them from the frauds of traders a national system of trade was adopted,
and a number of laws were passed to protect them from the aggressions of
borderers, as well as to secure them in the rights allowed them in their
treaties.

The battle of Lake Erie (1813) was closely associated with the city.
Here were Perry's headquarters during the War of 1812, and here he built
in less than six months many of the vessels with which he won his naval
victory over the British.

Erie is now an important manufacturing centre, the products of which are
valued at between $40,000,000 and $50,000,000. A large branch of the
General Electric Co. is here, besides important factories for flour and
grist mill products, paper and wood pulp, organs, petroleum, etc. The
leading articles of shipment are lumber, coal, grain and iron ore. Over
1,400 ships a year enter and clear the broad, landlocked harbour. On a
bluff overlooking lake and city, is the State Soldiers' and Sailors'
Home, and nearby, a monument to Gen. Wayne. Between Springfield (577 M.)
and Conneaut we cross the state line into Ohio.


584 M. CONNEAUT, Pop. 9,000. (Train 3 passes 10:08p; No. 41, 2:39a; No.
25, 2:04a; No. 19, 6:34a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:50p; No. 26, 9:59p;
No. 16, 1:20a; No. 22, 4:32a.)

The first permanent settlement was made here in 1799 though a
preliminary surveying party composed of Moses Cleaveland, the founder of
the city of Cleveland, and 50 associates, two of whom were women, had
arrived in 1796 and found 20 or 30 cabins of the Massauga tribe.

    In his journal Cleaveland gives a description of the arrival
    here, "on the creek Conneaugh, in New Connecticut Land," July 4,
    1796. "We gave three cheers," he continues, "and christened the
    place Ft. Independence, and, after many difficulties,
    perplexities and hardships were surmounted and we were on the
    good and promised land, felt that a just tribute of respect to
    the day ought to be paid. There were in all, including women and
    children, 50 in number. The men under Capt. Tinker, ranged
    themselves on the beach and fired a Federal Salute of 15 rounds,
    and then the 16th in honor of New Conn. Drank several toasts.
    Closed with three cheers. Drank several pints of grog. Supped and
    returned in good order."

After the whites had established themselves, the Indians were driven out
for having murdered a settler. The country of Ashtabula in which
Conneaut stands was not only the first settled on the Western Reserve,
but the first in Northern Ohio, and the town is sometimes called the
"Plymouth" of the Western Reserve.

Conneaut, which means in the Seneca language "many fish," is built at
the mouth of Conneaut Creek in what is now a thriving agricultural and
dairying region on Lake Erie. Besides being an excellent harbour to
which coal and ore are shipped, the city has flour and planing mills,
tanneries, canneries, and other factories.


595 M. ASHTABULA, Pop. 22,082. (Train 3 passes 10:29p; No. 41, 3:06a;
No. 25, 2:19a; No. 19, 6:50a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:34p; No. 26,
9:44p; No. 16, 1:00a; No. 22, 4:16a.)

Settlers were attracted to the site of the present town of Ashtabula (an
Indian word said to mean "fish river") in 1801 by the excellent harbour
here, formed by the mouth of the Ashtabula River. The city is built on
the high bank of the river about 75 ft. above the lake and commands some
fine views. There are large green-houses under glass from which forced
fruit and vegetables are shipped to Pittsburgh and other large cities.
It is the centre of a prosperous agricultural and dairying region which
has been largely settled by Finns.

Ashtabula is one of the most important ports in America for the shipment
of iron ore and coal. Iron ore especially, is brought here in enormous
quantities by boat and trans-shipped to Pittsburgh. The shipyards and
drydocks in the harbour, and the huge machines for loading coal and
unloading ore are of great interest. The city has large manufactories
of leather, worsted goods, agricultural implements, foundry and machine
shop products; and the total value of its output is close to $10,000,000
annually.


602 M. GENEVA, Pop. 3,081. (Train 3 passes, 10:42p; No. 41, 3:18a; No.
25, 2:29a; No. 19, 7:03a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:22p; No. 26, 9:32p;
No. 16, 12:39a; No. 22, 4:02a.)

Geneva is built close to the site of the early Indian village
Kanadasaga, burnt in 1779.

    In that year Gen. Sullivan was despatched at the head of an
    expedition against the Indians of Western N.Y., who had taken up
    arms for the British and had been guilty of the terrible Wyoming
    and Cherry Valley massacres. Kanadasaga was one of the Indian
    "council hearths" destroyed, and tribes in this region were
    driven westward, never to recover their old power.

In addition to the lake, there are good mineral springs. According to
Duncan Ingraham, a Massachusetts traveller who wrote an account of a
journey in 1792, the town then consisted "of about 20 log houses, three
or four frame buildings, and as many idle persons as can live in them."
Some of these old houses along the main street are of pure Colonial
type, and really beautiful. Hobart College, founded 1822, is situated
here. Malt, tinware, flour, stoves, wall-paper, etc., are manufactured,
and there are also extensive nurseries.


622 M. PAINESVILLE, Pop. 7,272. (Train 3 passes, 11:06p; No. 41, 3:40a;
No. 25, 2:46a; No. 19, 7:27a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:05p; No. 26,
9:16p; No. 16, 12:18a; No. 22, 3:43a.)

Painesville was founded in 1800 by settlers from Conn. and N.Y., the
chief among whom was Gen. Edward Paine (1745-1841), an ex-officer of the
Continental Army. It contains one of the early women's colleges of the
country--Lake Erie College, founded in 1859 as the successor to
Willoughby Seminary at Willoughby, Ohio, the buildings of which were
burned in 1846.

The history of this part of the State includes early episodes of
Mormonism. In Painesville was published a book by E.D. Howe purporting
to show that "the historical p(art?) of the book of Mormon" was
plagiarized from a romance called _The Manuscript Found_ written by
Solomon Spalding of Conneaut (about 1809). This claim has not been fully
verified by later research.

Nine miles southwest of Painesville at Kirtland was (one?) of the early
settlements made by Joseph Smith and his Mormon followers. They built
here a $40,000 temple (still standing), a teacher's seminary and a bank.
The bank failed and Smith had to leave the state to avoid the sheriff.
Most of his disciples followed him to Missouri. At Mentor (which we now
pass 4 M. west of Painesville) lived Sidney Rigdon, who later became one
of the Mormon leaders.

    Rigdon (1793-1876) began his preaching career as a Baptist, then
    helped in establishing a society called the "reformers," and
    before being converted to Mormonism was pastor of a church in
    Mentor. He became a Mormon leader, and published a new
    translation of the Bible, with inserted prophecies of the coming
    of Joseph Smith. With Hyrum and Joseph Smith and Brigham Young,
    he moved westward in 1831 preaching, being "persecuted" and
    establishing an occasional temple. At Far West, a town in
    Missouri where the Mormons established themselves in 1838, Rigdon
    preached his "salt sermon," from the Matt. V. 13, urging his
    hearer to wage a "war of extermination" against all who disturbed
    them. Following his advice, the Mormons involved themselves in
    such broils with the "gentiles" that the state militia was called
    out against them. Smith and Rigdon were arrested, but the former
    escaped custody and with 15,000 followers, fled to Illinois. When
    the latter was freed, he joined the "Saints" in the city of
    Nauvoo which they had founded and was made a professor at their
    university. After Smith's arrest and murder by a mob in 1849 and
    the breaking up of Nauvoo, Rigdon disputed with Young for Smith's
    place. Not only failing to secure it, but being in addition tried
    for treason in wanting it, the disciple of Mormon returned to the
    East and spent his last days at Friendship, N.Y. Howe, in the
    book mentioned above, asserted that Sidney Rigdon was the
    original "author and proprietor of the Mormon conspiracy."

Near Mentor, also is Lawnfield, the former home of James A. Garfield.

    James Abram Garfield (1831-1881), 20th president of the U.S., was
    born in a log cabin at Orange, Ohio, and began life as a farm
    hand. He attended for a time the Western Reserve Eclectic
    Institute, afterwards Hiram College, finally entering Williams
    College from which he graduated, becoming a teacher of ancient
    languages and literature. Entering politics as a Republican, he
    was elected to the Ohio Senate in 1859. His Civil War record was
    striking, and he was made major-general for gallantry at the
    battle of Chickamauga. He was elected to Congress in 1863, where
    he attracted attention as a hard worker and ready speaker, and
    where later he became leader of the Republican party in the
    House. He was an advocate of drastic measures against the South
    and considered Lincoln's policies too lenient. At the
    presidential convention of the Republican Party in 1880, he was
    nominated on the 36th ballot as a compromise candidate, and in
    the same year was elected president. On the 2d of July, 1881,
    while on his way to attend commencement exercises at Williams
    College, he was shot by Charles G. Giteau, a disappointed office
    seeker who waylaid him in the Washington Railroad Station. He
    died Sept. 19, 1881, at Elberon, N.J.




                          CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO


623 M. CLEVELAND, Pop. 796,836. (Train 3 passes 11:55p; No. 41, 4:35a;
No. 25,3:30a; No. 19, 8:20a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 7:20p; No. 26,
8:35p; No. 16, 11:30p; No. 22, 2:56a.)

    [Illustration: City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)]

A trading post was established on the present site of Cleveland as early
as 1785 and ten years later Capt. Moses Cleaveland, leader of a small
band of pioneers and agent of the Connecticut Land Co., surveyed the
ground and planted the nucleus of the present thriving city--now fifth
in size in the country. Capt. Cleaveland, in travelling from Connecticut
into the Northwest, followed closely the present route of the New York
Central Lines, crossing N.Y. State to Buffalo and then from Buffalo
along the shore of Lake Erie.

At that time the southern shore of Lake Erie was part of the famous
Western Reserve territory, consisting of 3,250,000 acres of land,
certain parts of which Connecticut ceded to her citizens as compensation
for their losses from "fire and damage" at the hands of the British
during the Revolutionary War. These lands were sometimes known as "Fire
Lands."

    The Western Reserve was a part of the territory immediately west
    of the Pennsylvania line, and extending westward therefrom 120 M.
    Connecticut held and "reserved" this territory to herself in
    1780, when she ceded to the general government all her rights and
    claims to the other lands in the West. Later Conn. ceded the
    Reserve itself, but not before she had sold much of it to the
    Conn. Land Co., and the latter had begun the sale and disposition
    of all the lands so acquired, east of the Cuyahoga River. Until
    after 1815 no lands west of that river were open to entrance or
    survey, and settlers ventured there at their own risk. This was
    the Indian Boundary Line, established in 1795, and beyond it the
    aborigines had exclusive right of occupancy.

It was for the purpose of surveying and developing these lands that
Capt. Cleaveland undertook his expeditions into the Western Reserve. The
first of these expeditions (1795) was composed of 50 men, women and
children who arrived at Ft. Independence (now Conneaut) on Lake Erie,
July 4, 1796. Pushing on further, they arrived at the present site of
Cleveland, and in a few days the first log cabin was erected at the
mouth of the Cuyahoga River.

    To keep the commissary supplied was no easy problem in the new
    settlement. Sometimes they ate boiled rattlesnake in default of
    anything better. On one occasion, while the little band of
    settlers was assembled in prayer in one of the log cabins,
    someone espied a bear swimming across the Cuyahoga River. The
    coming of the bear was looked upon as providential, and the
    congregation suspended the prayer-meeting, killed the bear, and
    then returned to their devotions.

Capt. Cleaveland's plans for his new settlement were ambitious, and he
built a number of substantial roads through the forests, usually
following the old Indian trails, now the right of way of the New York
Central and other lines. With the opening of the Ohio Canal to the Ohio
River (1832), Cleveland became the natural outlet on Lake Erie for
Ohio's extensive agricultural and mineral products. The discovery and
commercial exploitation (beginning about 1840) of large deposits of iron
ore in the Lake Superior region placed Cleveland in a strategic position
between these vast ore fields and the coal and oil resources of Ohio,
Pa., and W. Va., and it is from this time that the city's great
commercial importance really dates.

    [Illustration: Moses Cleaveland

    Moses Cleaveland (1754-1806) was born at Canterbury, Conn., and
    graduated from Yale. After serving in the U.S. Army, where he
    attained the rank of captain, he practiced law and entered the
    Connecticut legislature. Later, he organized the Connecticut Land
    Co., which in 1795 purchased a large portion of the Western
    Reserve.]

In 1836 Cleveland had been chartered as a city. The name, though chosen
in honour of Capt. Cleaveland, had been abbreviated to its present form
some years before. Tradition credits the changed form to a newspaper
which left out the letter "a" in order to make the word fit a headline.

The building of the railways during the decade 1850-1860, and the
stimulus to industry during the Civil War, when Cleveland supplied large
quantities of iron products and clothing to the government, gave impetus
to the city's growth. With a population of only 1,076 in 1830 and 6,071
in 1840, Cleveland had become in 1870 a city of 92,829 (more than double
its population in 1860). Thirty years later (1900) the population had
grown to 381,768 and in 1920 it was 796,836, an increase of 42 per cent
over 1910.

The later history of Cleveland has been distinguished for some notable
experiments in city planning, popular education and municipal ownership
(particularly with respect to street railways). The street railway
situation had been a source of trouble ever since 1899, when a strike of
serious proportions occurred. Mobs attacked the cars, some of which were
blown up with dynamite. In 1901 Tom Johnson was first elected mayor,
and, largely as a result of his advocacy, municipal ownership became a
greater issue in Cleveland than in any other great city in the country.

    Tom Johnson (1854-1911) was a successful business man who entered
    politics on a reform platform. He was an ardent single-taxer, and
    in spite of the fact that he was financially interested in street
    railways, steel plants and other industries, a staunch advocate
    of municipal ownership. He served as mayor of Cleveland for 4
    successive terms (from 1901 to 1909) and was later elected to
    Congress. Single Taxers were much pleased by his strategy in
    getting an entire book--Henry George's _Progress and
    Poverty_--printed in the Congressional Record.

Johnson and his followers demanded a 3-cent fare on the street railways
and in 1906 it was actually put into effect. The private owners were
compelled in 1908 to lease their property to a municipal holding
company, but in 1910 (after Johnson's defeat for re-election in the
preceding year), the street railway system was leased to a new
corporation, the rate of fare under the new arrangement to be based on
an adequate return to the investors.

Cleveland was the home of Mark Hanna who became famous in national
Republican politics.

    Marcus A. Hanna was born in Lisbon, Ohio, in 1837, removed with
    his father in 1852 to Cleveland, where he graduated from Western
    Reserve University, and in 1867 entered into partnership with his
    father-in-law (Daniel P. Rhodes) in the coal and iron business.
    Under Hanna's guidance the business prospered enormously, but it
    was not till somewhat late in life that he became prominent in
    Republican affairs in Cleveland. As chairman of the National
    Republican Committee in 1896 he managed with great skill the
    campaign against Bryan and free silver, and came to be
    acknowledged as a leader of great adroitness, tact, and resource.
    He entered the U.S. Senate from Ohio in 1898, and was one of the
    principal advisers of the McKinley administration. He took a
    vital interest in problems affecting labor and capital and was
    one of the organizers in 1901 and first president of the National
    Civic Federation. He died in 1904 at Washington.

The Cleveland Chamber of Commerce has done much in the betterment of
local politics. It was also instrumental in 1902 in securing the
adoption of the "Group Plan" by which some of the principal public
buildings are arranged in a quadrangle on the bluff overlooking Lake
Erie. Cleveland appropriated $25,000,000 to promote the plan. On one
side of the quadrangle (nearest the lake) are the courthouse and city
hall; on the opposite side and 2,000 ft. south are the post office and
library ($2,500,000). There is to be a Mall 600 ft. wide, with public
buildings on either side, connecting the court-house and city hall with
the post office and library. The granite buildings forming this
quadrangle were designed under the supervision of Arnold Brunner, John
M. Carrere and D.H. Burnham.

In education the city has made an innovation known as the "Cleveland
plan" which seeks to minimize school routine, red tape and frequent
examinations. Great stress is put on domestic and manual training
courses, and promotion in the grammar schools is made dependent on the
general knowledge and development of the pupil as estimated by a teacher
who is supposed to make a careful study of the individual. There are in
Cleveland 120 public schools and 44 public libraries. The principal
institutions of higher education are the Western Reserve University with
2,800 students, St. Ignatius College (Roman Catholic), and the Case
School of Applied Science.

With its 12 M. of shore line on Lake Erie, a fine park system (1,500
acres), and wide residential streets, well shaded by maples and elms,
Cleveland possesses many aspects of unusual beauty. The city is situated
on bluffs rising from 74 to 200 ft. above the water and commands
pleasant views of Lake Erie, while the surface of the plateau upon which
the town is built is deeply cut by the Cuyahoga River, which here
pursues a meandering course through a valley half a mile wide. Other
streams, notably Dean Brook on the east border, add to the picturesque
character of the municipal setting. A chain of parks* connected by
driveways follows the valley of the Dean Brook, at the mouth of which,
on the lake front, is the beautiful Gordon Park, formerly the private
estate of William J. Gordon, but given by him to the city in 1893; from
this extends up the Dean Valley the large Rockefeller Park, given to the
city in 1896 by John D. Rockefeller and others. It adjoins Wade Park,
where are a zoological garden and a lake.

    [Illustration: The First Automobile (1798)

    "By means of wheels," says the Third Edition of the Encyclopædia
    Britannica (1798), from which this illustration was taken, "some
    people have contrived carriages to go without horses. One of these
    [the vehicle to the left] is moved by the footman behind it; and
    the forewheels, which act as a rudder, are guided by the person
    who sits in the carriage. Between the hind-wheels is placed a box,
    in which is concealed the machinery that moves the carriage. A
    machine of this kind will afford a salutary recreation in a garden
    or park, or on any plain ground; but in a rough or deep road must
    be attended with more pain than pleasure.... Another contrivance
    for being carried without draught, is by means of a sailing
    chariot or boat fixed on four wheels, as A/B [the figure to the
    right], which is driven before the wind by the sails C/D and
    guided by the rudder E. Its velocity with a strong wind is said to
    be so great that it would carry eight or ten persons from
    Scheveling to Putten, which is 42 English miles distant, in two
    hours." The figure in the centre represents a modified sailing
    vehicle designed to sail against the wind as well as with it.]

Of the several cemeteries in Cleveland, Lake View (300 acres), on an
elevated site on the east border of the city is the most noteworthy;
here are buried President Garfield (the Garfield memorial is a sandstone
tower 165 ft. high with a chapel and crypt at its base), Mark Hanna and
John Hay.

    John Hay (1838-1905) was a native of Salem, Ind., and a graduate
    of Brown University. He studied law in the office of Abraham
    Lincoln, and, after being admitted to the bar at Springfield,
    Ill., became one of Lincoln's private secretaries, serving until
    the president's death. He then acted as secretary to various U.S.
    Legations abroad--Paris, Vienna, Madrid--and on returning to
    America became assistant secretary of State under W. M. Evarts.
    President McKinley appointed him ambassador to Great Britain in
    1897, and the following year Secretary of State. Hay was
    prominent in many important international negotiations, such as
    the treaty with Spain (1898), the "open door" in China, and the
    Russo-Japanese peace settlement. He negotiated the Hay-Pauncefote
    treaty concerning the Panama Canal; also settled difficulties
    with Germany over the Samoan question and with Great Britain over
    the Alaskan boundary. As an author, Hay is best known for his
    _Pike County Ballads_, in which _Little Breeches_ first appeared,
    and for the monumental life of Lincoln written by Nicolay and himself.

Other notable monuments in Cleveland are a statue of Senator Hanna by
Saint Gaudens (in University Circle), a marble statue of Commodore Perry
in commemoration of the battle of Lake Erie (in Wade Park), a soldiers'
and sailors' monument--a granite shaft rising from a memorial room to a
height of 125 ft. (in the Public Square), and a bronze statue of Moses
Cleaveland, the founder of the city (likewise in the Public Square).
This latter monument is said to stand on the very spot selected by
Cleaveland for the centre of his new settlement.

The Public Square, or Monumental Park, is in the business centre of the
city, about ½ M. from the lake and the same distance east of the
Cuyahoga River. From this park the principal thoroughfares radiate.
Euclid Ave., once famous for its private residences, but now the chief
retail street of the city, begins at the southeast corner of the square.
Cleveland's newest residence district is on the heights in the eastern
part of the city.

Cleveland sometimes has been called the "Sheffield of America." Its
prosperity is founded chiefly on its accessibility to oil, coal and
iron. It is the largest ore market in the world. Forty million tons of
iron ore valued at $125,000,000 are received annually in the Cleveland
district, and the ore docks where much of this ore is handled, are of
great interest. Cleveland also has extensive docking facilities,* said
to be the finest in the country, for handling its immense trade in coal
and grain. Cleveland's oil refineries, among the largest in the world,
receive enormous quantities of crude oil by pipe line, rail and water.

The city has 2,500 manufacturing plants with 125,000 workers, producing
annually goods worth about $375,000,000, of which $100,000,000
represents the products of its foundries and machine shops. Cleveland is
the first city in America in the making of wire products and automobile
parts, second in the manufacture of clothing and sewing machines and one
of the leading cities in the production of complete automobiles.
Shipbuilding (there are five large shipyards* here) is likewise an
important industry, and Cleveland controls the larger share of the
tonnage on the Great Lakes.

    [Illustration: "Slab Hall," Oberlin College (1832)

    Oberlin College was founded in 1832 "to give equal advantages to
    whites and blacks, and to give education to women as well as to
    men." Other objects were "to establish universal liberty by the
    abolition of every form of sin" and "to avoid the debasing
    association of the heathen classics and make the Bible a text
    book in all departments of education." The traditions of Oberlin
    are strongly religious, and from Charles Grandison Finney,
    revivalist and president of the college from 1851 to 1866, sprang
    what is called the "Oberlin Theology," a compound of free-will
    and Calvinism. Before the Civil War the village was a station on
    the "underground railway," and the influence of the college made
    it a centre of extreme abolitionist sentiment.]


673 M. ELYRIA, Pop. 20,474. (Train 3 passes 12:52a; No. 41, 5:27a; No.
25, 4:07a; No. 19, 9:12a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 6:22p; No. 26, 7:57p;
No. 16, 10:34p; No. 22, 2:04a.)

Elyria was founded about 1819 by Herman Ely in whose honour it was
named. Ely came from West Springfield, Mass., built a cabin on the site
of the present town, and later erected the first frame house in the
township. The city lies at the junction of the two forks of the Black
River, each of which falls about 50 feet here, furnishing considerable
water-power. There are sandstone quarries about the town. The chief
manufactures of the city are automobile supplies, telephones, electric
apparatus, flour, feed, canned goods, machine parts and iron pipe; the
annual output is valued at about $10,000,000. Eight miles to the
southwest is Oberlin (Pop. 5,000), the seat of Oberlin College.


704 M. SANDUSKY, Pop. 22,897. (Train 3 passes 1:35a; No. 41, 6:12a; No.
25, 4:44a; No. 19, 9:55a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:38p; No. 26, 7:13p;
No. 16, 9:45p; No. 22, 1:16a.)

English traders visited Sandusky Bay, upon which the city of Sandusky is
situated, as early as 1748, and by 1763 a fort had been erected for
protection against the French and Indians. On May 16th of that year,
during the Pontiac rising, the Wyandot Indians burned the fort. A
permanent settlement was established in 1817.

At the entrance to Sandusky Bay is Cedar Point, with a beach for
bathing. This is an attractive summer resort. Outside Sandusky Bay are a
number of islands, most of which belong to Ohio, but the largest, Point
Pelee, is British. At the mouth of the harbour is Johnson's Island,
where many Confederate prisoners were confined during the Civil War.
There is a soldiers' and sailors' home here with accommodations for
1,600 persons. A few miles farther north are several fishing resorts,
among them Lakeside and Put-in-Bay (South Bass Island), where the
government maintains a fish hatchery. Out of this bay Oliver Hazard
Perry and his fleet sailed on the morning of Sept. 10, 1813, for the
battle of Lake Erie.

    Having worked up in the U.S. Navy from midshipman to captain
    during which time he saw service against the Barbary pirates,
    Capt. Oliver Hazard Perry (1785-1819) was at the beginning of the
    War of 1812 placed in command of a flotilla at Newport, but soon
    transferred to the lakes. There, with the help of a strong
    detachment of officers and men from the Atlantic coast, he
    equipped a squadron of a brig, six schooners, and a sloop. In
    July 1813 he concentrated the Lake Erie fleet at Presque Isle
    (now Erie). In Aug. he took his squadron to Put-in-Bay, in South
    Bass Island.

    On Sept. 10, Perry met the British squadron, under Capt. Barclay
    off Amherstburg, Ont., in the Battle of Lake Erie. Capt. Barclay,
    after a hot engagement in which Perry's flagship, the "Lawrence,"
    was so severely shattered that he had to leave her, was
    completely defeated. "The important fact," says Theodore
    Roosevelt "was that though we had nine guns less [than the enemy]
    yet at a broadside, they threw half as much metal again as our
    antagonist. With such odds in our favor, it would have been a
    disgrace to have been beaten. The chief merit of the American
    Commander and his followers were indomitable courage and
    determination not to be beaten. This is no slight merit; but it
    may well be doubted if it would have insured victory had
    Barclay's force been as strong as Perry's.... It must always be
    remembered that when Perry fought this battle he was but 27 years
    old; and the commanders of his other vessels were younger still."
    Another distinction which Perry won on this occasion is that he
    enriched our diction when in writing to Gen. Harrison to announce
    his victory, he said, "We have met the enemy, and they are ours."

    Perry commanded the "Java" in the Mediterranean expedition of
    1815-16 and died of yellow fever at Trinidad in 1819.

Sandusky had a spacious landlocked harbour, much improved by government
works and its trade in coal, lumber, stone, cement, fish, ice, fruit and
grape juice is extensive. Its manufactures include tools, iron and steel
products, chemicals, paper, agricultural implements, lumber products,
gasoline engines, dynamos, glass and cement, with a total value annually
of some $20,000,000.

    [Illustration: An American Cartoon (1813)

    Queen Charlotte is represented as saying, "Johnny, won't you take
    some more Perry?" while "Johnny Bull" replies: "Oh! Perry!!! Curse
    that Perry! One disaster after another. I have not half recovered
    of the Bloody Nose I got at the Boxing Match." In a ballad of the
    day the verse occurs:

    "On Erie's wave, while Barclay brave,
       With Charlotte making merry,
     He chanced to take the belly-ache,
       We drenched him so with Perry."

    "Perry" was a kind of indigestible drink made from pear-juice. The
    "boxing-match" refers to the capture of the "Boxer" by the
    American schooner "Enterprise."]


757 M. TOLEDO, Pop. 243,109. (Train 3 passes 2:45a; No. 41, 7:25a; No.
25, 5:45a; No. 19, 11:05a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:35p; No. 26, 5:15p;
No. 16, 7:30p; No. 22, 11:08p.)[2]

[2. Note that westbound trains here change to Central time; while
eastbound trains change to Eastern time at next station (Sandusky).]

Toledo was built on the site of Ft. Industry, erected in 1800. It lies
within an immense tract of land, constituting several reservations
bought by the U.S. government from several Indian tribes in 1795. Upon
that part of the tract farthest upstream the town of Port Lawrence was
laid out in 1807. In 1832 a rival company laid out the town of Vistula
immediately below and a year later the two united and were named Toledo.

This district was the storm-centre for the more or less ridiculous
episodes of the "Toledo War" in 1835, a dispute over the boundary line
between Ohio and Michigan. This boundary, named the "Harris Line" (1817)
after its surveyor, left in dispute a strip of land from 5 to 8 M. wide,
a rich agricultural region within which lay Toledo. Gov. Lucas of Ohio,
by authority of the State Legislature (1835), sent three commissioners
out to re-mark the Harris line so as to include the bone of contention.
When Gov. Mason, appointed by President Jackson as administrator of the
territory of Michigan heard about this, he dispatched a division of
militia to occupy Toledo.

    Gov. Mason over-ran all the watermelon patches, stole the
    chickens, burst in the front door of a certain Maj. Stickney's
    house, and proudly carried him off as a prisoner of war, after
    demolishing his ice house.

Lucas responded by sending out the Ohio militia who occupied a post at
Perrysburg, 10 M. to the south. No fighting took place in this most
genteel of wars, although there were several arrests and much confusion.

    A Dr. Russ, who was with Mason's forces on their march to Toledo
    gives a description of the soldiers' jumpy nerves. Various jokers
    had circulated dark stories of the number of sharp-shooting
    Buckeyes waiting for them at Toledo, which so alarmed this
    amateur legion that nearly one half of those who had marched
    boldly from Monroe availed themselves of the road-side bushes to
    withdraw from such a dangerous enterprise.

President Jackson put an end to the dispute by requesting Michigan to
stop interfering with the re-marking of the boundary line, but slight
outbreaks continued until he presently removed Gov. Mason from
office, and until Congress in 1836 decided in favor of Ohio.

The city administration became famous for its efficient honesty after
1897, when Samuel Milton Jones (1846-1904) a manufacturer of oil
machinery, was elected mayor by the Republican party. The Independent
movement which he began was carried on by Brand Whitlock.

    Mayor Jones was re-elected on the non-partisan ticket in 1(899?),
    1901 and 1903, and introduced business methods into the city
    government. His integrity in business and politics gained him the
    nickname "Golden Rule Jones."

    Brand Whitlock was born in Urbana, Ohio, in 1869. He began his
    career as a journalist, but decided to practice law instead.
    After four years of study in Springfield, Ohio, he was admitted
    (to?) the bar in 1897, when he removed to Toledo. In 1905 he was
    elected mayor of that city as an Independent, running against
    four other candidates, and was re-elected in 1907-1909 and 1911
    under similar conditions. President Wilson in 1913 sent him as
    minister to Belgium where he made a distinguished record during
    the War. In 1919 he was appointed ambassador to that country. His
    _Memoires of Belgium under the German Occupation_, published in
    1918, gives an excellent description of "frightfulness" in actual
    operation.

The park system includes about 1,000 acres, connected by a boulevard 18
M. long. Toledo University (2,100 students), which include Toledo
Medical College, was founded in 1880.

The advantages of Toledo as a lake port have always been recognized, and
its growth has been rapid. It is situated about 4 M. from Lake Erie, and
is connected with it by a channel 400 ft. wide and 21 ft.
deep--sufficient to admit the largest vessels from the lake to the 25 M.
of docks. Toledo is a shipping point for the iron and copper ores and
lumber of the Lake Superior and Michigan regions, and for petroleum,
coal, fruit, grain and clover seed. There are factories for motor-cars,
plate and cut-glass, tobacco, spices, and beverages, also lumber and
planing-mills, flour and grist mills, etc., with products of an annual
value of $200,000,000 or more. At Butler (367 M.) we enter Indiana.


880 M. GOSHEN, Pop. 9,525. (Train 3 passes 4:4(9?); No. 41, 9:45a; No.
25, 2:07a; No. 19, 12:52p. Eastbound; No. 6 passes 1:06p; No. 26, 2:59p;
No. 16, 4:28p; No. 22, 8:32p.)

Situated on the Elkhart River, Goshen was first settled about 1828 by
pioneers from New England. It is the seat of Goshen College, the only
Mennonite institution of higher education in the U.S. The college was
founded as Elkhart Institute in Elkhart in 1895, and was removed to
Goshen in 1903.

    The Mennonites are a religious body who nominally follow the
    teaching of Menno Simons (born in Friesland, a province of
    Holland, 1492; died 1559), a religious leader, who insisted that
    true Christianity can recognize no authority outside of the Bible
    and an enlightened conscience. There are Mennonite colonies in
    Holland, France, Russia and Germany, as well as in the U.S. The
    American Mennonites have been largely emigrants from Holland and
    Prussia. The principal American colony is at Germantown, Pa.
    (first settled 1683).

There is a Carnegie library, a city hospital and a fine high school
building in the town. Goshen is an important agricultural and lumber
market. Its manufactures include flour, lumber goods, ladders, iron,
wagons, steel tanks, underwear, machinery, furniture and farm
implements.


900 M. ELKHART, Pop. 24,277. (Train 3 passes 5:00a; No. 41, 10:05a; No.
25, 7:21a; No. 19, 1:10p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes at 12:50p; No. 26,
2:45p; No. 16, 4:10p; No. 22, 8:15p.)

Elkhart, originally "Elkheart" (the translation of an Indian word), is
so named by the Indians from the shape of an island, near the centre of
the city, formed by the junction of the two rivers, the St. Joe and the
Elkhart, which make many turns and windings here. There are several
parks, in one of which, McNaughton Park, a Chautauqua assembly is held
annually.

    [Illustration: La Salle (1643-1687)

    René Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, was born at Rouen,
    France, and began his explorations from Montreal in 1669.
    Discovering the Ohio River, he travelled down possibly as far as
    (its?) junction with the Mississippi and then returned. The winter
    of 1679 La Salle passed at a post above Niagra Falls, where he
    built his famous (ship?), the "Griffin," in which he sailed the
    Great Lakes to Lake Michigan, (and?) which he sent back laden with
    (furs?) in the hope of satisfying the loans of his creditors,
    while he himself proceeded westward. In 1682, (after?) many
    adventures, he floated down (to?) the mouth of the Mississippi,
    where he erected a monument and cross, took possession of the
    region in the name of Louis XIV and named it Louisiana. When he
    returned there two years (later?) with four vessels he mistook the
    waters of Matagorda Bay, in the present state of Texas, for the
    mouth of a branch of the Mississippi and landed there. Fruitlessly
    wandering through the wilderness in search of the Mississippi
    River, the Illinois country and Canada, he was killed by his
    followers in March, 1687.]

Elkhart is a city of factories. Band instruments, furniture, telephone
supplies, drugs, carriages, and many other products are included among
its manufactures, which have an annual value of more than $15,000,000.
Two Mennonite papers are published here.


915 M. SOUTH BEND, Pop. 70,983. (Train 3 passes 5:30a; No. 41, 10:38a;
No. 25, 7:45a; No. 19, 1:43p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 12:20p; No. 26,
2:22p; No. 16, 3:32p; No. 22, 7:45p.)

South Bend is situated on the St. Joseph River. Just north of the city
is the portage between the St. Joseph and the Kankakee Rivers, by means
of which Père Marquette in 1675 and La Salle in 1679 made their way into
what is now the state of Illinois.

    This portage was part of the long land and water highway by which
    the mound-builders in pre-historic times conveyed copper from the
    Lake Superior to points as distant as Mexico and South America.

    As there is no place in the U.S. but the south shore of Lake
    Superior where native copper can be mined, its presence in the
    mounds, at remote points is an infallible guide in tracing the
    commercial intercourse of the Mound-builders. Copper boulders are
    also found on the shore, and even as far south as Indiana and
    Illinois. That the whole extent of the copper-bearing region was
    mined in remote times by a race of whom the Indians preserve no
    tradition there is abundant evidence, such as numerous
    excavations in the solid rock, heaps of rubble and dirt along the
    courses of the veins, copper utensils such as knives, chisels,
    spears, arrowheads, stone hammers creased for the attachment of
    withes, wooden bowls for boiling water from the mines, wooden
    shovels, ladders, and levers for raising and supporting masses of
    copper. The high antiquity of this mining is inferred from these
    facts: that the trenches and pits were filled level with the
    surrounding surface so that their existence was not suspected;
    that on the piles of rubbish were found growing trees of great
    age, such as hemlock trees having annual rings showing that they
    began before the coming of Columbus. Copper wrought into utensils
    is found in the mounds all the way from Wisconsin to the Gulf
    Coast, and the supply is too abundant to authorize the
    supposition that it was derived from boulder drift. So expert
    were these miners that on the site of the Minnesota mine they
    lifted a copper mass weighing 6 tons, supporting on a frame of
    wood 5 ft. high.

    [Illustration: Jacques Marquette

    Jacques Marquette was born at Laon, France, and as a Jesuit priest
    went to Canada in 1666, where he was chosen to explore the
    Mississippi River with Joliet, a young Canadian explorer, in 1673,
    the French having begun to gain knowledge of the prairies from the
    Indians. Following a route through Green Bay and up the Fox River
    to a point where they made a portage to the Wisconsin, Marquette
    and Joliet finally reached the Mississippi. On their return to
    Michigan, Marquette fell ill, and his attempt in the following
    year to found a mission among the Indians of the Illinois River
    proved too much for his broken strength. On the way home he died
    beside a little stream which enters Marquette Bay on Lake
    Michigan.]

The earliest white settler was Pierre Navarre, one of the fraternity of
the _coureurs de bois_--a wild, rascally, fearless crew of half-breeds
and renegade whites, who were the first to invade this famous hunting
country. The succession of sheltered prairies, rounded sand-hills, and
reedy marches cut by sluggish streams widening into lakes, made a good
haunt for all game, especially beaver. Now the water is mostly drained
away and the land reclaimed, but at one time much of the region could be
passed over in canoes.

    Pierre Navarre (1785-1874) was the son of a French army officer.
    Besides Canadian French, he could speak the Pottowattomie Indian
    dialect, and had some knowledge of woodcraft and nature signs. In
    his calling of fur trader he made friends with the Miamis and
    their chief, Little Turtle, and when the War of 1812 broke out,
    offered the services of the tribe to Gen. Hull, as well as his
    own. The offers were declined, so the flouted Miamis transferred
    their allegiance to the British under Gen. Proctor. So good a
    scout was Navarre that a reward of $1,000 for his head or scalp
    was promised by Proctor. "He used to say," writes an old
    chronicler who knew him, "that the worst night he ever spent was
    as bearer of a despatch from Gen. Harrison, then at Ft. Meigs, to
    Ft. Stephenson (now Fremont). Amid a thunderstorm of great fury
    and fall of water, he made the trip of thirty miles through the
    unbroken wilderness and the morning following delivered to Gen.
    Harrison a reply." He died in his 89th year at East Toledo.

The University of Notre Dame, in South Bend, with 1,200 students, is the
largest Catholic school for boys and young men in the country, and the
American headquarters of the worldwide Order of the Holy Cross. Notre
Dame was founded in 1842 by Father Sorin, a Frenchman, who accomplished
his object under great difficulties.

    When Father Sorin arrived in Indiana in 1841, leaving behind a
    comfortable life in France for missionary work among the Indians,
    he found on the present site of Notre Dame only waste land
    covered with snow, and only one building, a tumble down log hut.
    With $5 to begin work of erecting a school, he started in
    courageously, and spent five days repairing the hut and fitting
    it up so that one half served as a chapel and the other as a
    dwelling for himself and 6 lay-brothers. In 1844 his little
    college was chartered as a university by the legislature of
    Indiana. Father Sorin was elected superior-general of the Order
    of the Holy Cross for life. Besides Notre Dame, he founded many
    other schools and colleges in the United States and Canada. He
    died at South Bend in 1893. His co-worker, Father Badin, was the
    first priest consecrated in the United States.

The mural frescoes of the main university building are by Luigi Gregori,
who was sent from the Vatican for this purpose, and who spent twenty
years on this work and on the adjacent Church of the Sacred Heart. The
latter is famous for its decoration, especially the beautiful altar. St.
Mary's, a large girls' school conducted by the Sisters of the Holy
Cross, has also fine buildings of more modern type than Notre Dame.

Schuyler Colfax at one time vice-president of the U.S. and for years an
intimate and trusted friend of Lincoln's, lived here in his youth, as
did the late James Whitcomb Riley. The soldier who, during the Great
War, fired the first gun of the American army in France against the
Germans was Alex Arch, a native of this city.

    Though born in N.Y., Schuyler Colfax (1823-1885) passed his early
    years first in New Carlisle, Ind., then in South Bend, where his
    step-father was county auditor. After doing some journalistic
    work, he began his public career by making campaign speeches for
    Henry Clay in 1844. In 1852 he joined the newly formed Republican
    party, and served in Congress from 1854 to 1869. His name was
    widely mentioned for the office of postmaster-general in
    Lincoln's cabinet, but the president selected another man on the
    ground that Colfax "was a young man, running a brilliant career,
    and sure of a bright future in any event." In 1863 Colfax was
    elected Speaker of the House, and in 1868 vice-president. Four
    years later Colfax was implicated in a corruption charge, which
    though found groundless by the Senate Judiciary Committee, cast a
    shadow over the latter part of his life.

    James Whitcomb Riley was born in 1853 in Greenfield, Ind. He
    spent several years as a strolling sign-painter, actor, and
    musician, during which time he revised plays and composed songs,
    and grew closely in touch with the life of the Indiana farmer.
    About 1873 he first contributed verses, especially in the Hoosier
    dialect, to the papers, and before long had attained a recognized
    position as poet-laureate of the Western country folk. His
    materials are the incidents and aspects of village life,
    especially of the Indiana villages. These he interprets in a
    manner as acceptable to the naïve as to the sophisticated, which
    is saying a good deal for this type of verse. Some of his best
    known books are _The Rubaiyat of Doc Sifers_, _Home Folks_, _A
    Defective Santa Claus_, _The Old Swimmin' Hole_, _An Old
    Sweetheart of Mine_, and _Out to Old Aunt Mary's_.

Among the important manufactories of South Bend are plows,
sewing-machines, underwear, and motor-cars. The annual value of the
combined output is around $60,000,000.


942 M. LA PORTE, Pop. 15,158. (Train 3 passes 6:06a; No. 41, 11:22a; No.
25, 8:17a; No. 19, 2:22p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 11:46a; No. 26, 1:53p;
No. 16, 2:57p; No. 22, 7:07p.)

The name La Porte, which in French means "door" or "gate," took its
origin from a natural opening through the timber that here interrupted
the wide stretch of prairie. The main street of the town is built on an
old Indian trail between Detroit and points in Illinois. La Porte was
first settled in 1830. It is situated in the heart of a region of
beautiful lakes--Clear, Pine, Stone and others--which have given it a
wide reputation as a summer resort. The lakes furnish a large supply of
natural ice which is shipped to Chicago. The soil about La Porte
consists of sandy "timber" loam and vegetable mold, especially adapted
to growing potatoes, wheat and corn. Farm and orchard products were
early sources of the town's prosperity. There are now numerous
manufactures--woolen goods, agricultural engines and implements, lumber
and furniture, foundry products, musical instruments, radiators, pianos,
blankets, bicycles and flour.


975 M. GARY, Pop. 55,378. (Train 3 passes 6:47a; No. 41, 12:06p; No. 25,
8:55a; No. 19, 3:08p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 11:06a; No. 26, 1:17p; No.
16, 2:12p; No. 22, 6:23p.)

The city of Gary was built to order. Fifteen years ago the site of the
present town was nothing but a waste of sand-dunes and swamps
intersected from east to west by the Grand Calumet and Little Calumet
Rivers. In 1906 the United States Steel Corporation broke ground here
for a series of enormous foundries and factories, first laying sewers,
water mains, gas pipes and conduits for electric wires, as well as
providing other improvements necessary for life of the city. The Steel
Corporation had chosen this site partly because of its direct connection
by water with the Lake Superior ore region, partly because of its
proximity to Chicago, and partly because it was accessible to Virginia
coal and Michigan limestone. The town was named Gary in honour of Elbert
H. Gary (b. 1846), chairman of the Board of Directors of the Steel
Corporation, and in succeeding years there came an influx of inhabitants
which has made Gary the largest city in Northern Indiana. In 1906 the
city was non-existent; in 1910 it had a population of 16,802; in 1916,
40,000; and the Federal census of 1920 showed that Gary now has more
than 55,000 inhabitants.

Gary lies 30 ft. above Lake Michigan on a deep layer of sand, once the
bed of the lake, which in prehistoric time extended several miles
farther inland. The city has a splendid harbour which has been extended
by the use of the two rivers--the Grand and the Little Calumet--both of
which have been dredged and enlarged. The heart of the town is at the
intersection of Broadway and Fifth Ave., which are lined with handsome
buildings, and it is said that within radius of 10 M. of this point,
there is a population of 125,000 people, most of whom are engaged in the
industries of the Calumet region surrounding Gary.

The early growth of the town was so rapid that facilities for taking
care of the new population were inadequate. The congestion was extreme,
and real estate speculators did thriving business. Today it is said that
Gary has constructed public utilities and other improvements adequate
for a city of a quarter of a million people, and there is little doubt
that the population will reach that figure before many years have
passed. The city has fine public schools (the Gary system has become
famous throughout the United States), a Y.M.C.A. (costing $250,000), and
an excellent library. The City Hall and the Union station are likewise
notable for the scale on which they are built.

    Although Gary was built to order by the Steel Corporation, its
    officials did not undertake to control or direct the civic
    affairs of the town. Thus, the development of the Gary system of
    education was a natural, rather than an artificial one. There was
    every opportunity for an altogether new departure, in view of the
    inadequacy of school facilities for the fast growing population.
    The new system was introduced into the Gary schools by William
    Wirt, who had already made some experiments in this direction
    before 1907 (when he was called to Gary) at Bluffton, Ind., where
    he had been in charge of the public schools. Some of the
    fundamental principles of Mr. Wirt's plan are that "students
    learn best by doing" and that "all knowledge can be applied."
    Latin, for example, is not studied for mental discipline, but for
    actual use. The system also involves keeping the school buildings
    in use for entertainment or instruction throughout the entire day
    and evening, and numerous courses are provided for adults. It has
    been said that in Gary "every third person goes to school." The
    overcrowded condition in the N.Y.C. Schools led to an invitation
    to Mr. Wirt to introduce the Gary plan into several school
    districts in the boroughs of Bronx and Brooklyn in 1914-15. The
    experiment aroused bitter opposition on the part of those who
    suspected it was a sort of "conspiracy" to educate the poorer
    children for mechanical rather than clerical occupations in the
    interest of "capitalistic industry," and a year or two later N.Y.
    returned to the old methods of education.

The plant of the United States Steel Corporation, located between the
Grand Calumet River and the Lake, have the most complete system of
steel mills west of Pittsburgh. Within the first ten years after the
founding of Gary the Steel Corporation had spent $85,000,000 in building
furnaces, ovens, various foundries and shops, pumping stations, electric
power plants, benzol plants, Portland cement works, and ore docks. Since
that time the Steel Corporation's investment here has practically been
doubled, and a number of subsidiary companies have built up great
industries in Gary. The Universal Portland Cement here, for example, is
said to be the largest plant of its kind in the world (daily capacity
30,000 barrels).

    The United States Steel Corporation, organized in 1901 with a
    capitalization of about $1,400,000, was an amalgamation of ten
    independent companies, of which the Carnegie Steel Co. and the
    Federal Steel Co. (of which Elbert H. Gary was president) were
    perhaps the most important. The consolidation was effected under
    the auspices of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, who negotiated the
    purchase of Andrew Carnegie's properties for $303,450,000 in 5
    per cent steel corporation bonds and $188,556,160 in common and
    preferred stock. "The Value of the Carnegie Steel Co.," says A.
    Cotter in _The Authentic History of the U.S. Steel Corporation_,
    "was $75,000,000, though as a going concern it was worth
    $250,000,000. Its earnings in a single year had been as much as
    $40,000,000." Mr. Carnegie thereupon retired from business.

    On Jan. 1, 1920, the corporation had a surplus of $493,048,000,
    and the book value of the tangible assets was $1,917,730,000.
    There were then outstanding $568,728,000 in bonds and
    $868,583,000 in common and preferred stock. In 1919 strikes and
    other causes reduced the production of finished steel to about 75
    per cent of capacity, and at the beginning of 1920 the
    corporation had unfilled orders amounting to more than 8,000,000
    tons. The gross business of the corporation amounted to
    $1,448,557,835 in 1919 as against $1,744,312,163 the year before.
    The corporation's income for 1919, less operating expenses and
    taxes, was in the neighborhood of $150,000,000.

    Statistics of production for 1918 and 1919 are given below:

                                  Production in Tons
                                   1919          1918
        Iron ore mined          25,423,000    28,332,000
        Coal                    28,893,000    31,748,000
        Pig iron                13,481,738    15,700,561
        Steel ingots            17,200,000    19,583,000
        Finished steel          11,997,000    13,849,483
        Cement                   9,112,000     7,287,000

        No. of employees           252,106       268,710
        Total wages           $479,548,040  $452,663,524

    The average wage per day (excluding general administration and
    selling force) was $6.12 in 1919 and $5.33 the year before. In
    1919 the corporation spent $1,131,446 for safety work and the
    like, and (1?)5 hospitals, with a staff of 162 physicians and
    surgeons, were maintained.

    The various works controlled by the Steel Corporation include the
    Carnegie Steel Co, the Illinois Steel Co., the Universal Portland
    Cement Co., the Indiana Steel Co., the Minnesota Steel Co., the
    Lorain Steel Co., the National Tube Co., the American Steel and
    Wire Co., the American Sheet and Tin Plate Co., the Sharon Tin
    Plate Co., the American Bridge Co., the Union Steel Co., the
    Clairton Steel Co., the Clairton By-Product Co., the Canadian
    Steel Corporation, the Tennessee Coal, Iron & Railroad Co., the
    Fairfield Steel Co. and the Chickasaw Shipbuilding & Car Co.


1001 M. CHICAGO, Pop. 2,701,705. (Train 3 arrives 7:40a; No. 41, 1:00p;
No. 25, 9:45a; No. 19, 4:00p. Eastbound: No. 6 leaves 10:25a; No. 26,
12:40p; No. 16, 1:30p; No. 22, 5:30p.)

    [Illustration: Chicago in 1820]

The old Chicago portage was used by the Indians in travelling by canoe
from the Great Lakes to the Mississippi and then to the Gulf of Mexico,
long before any white man had visited the site of the present city on
the shore of Lake Michigan. The portage connected the Chicago River,
then flowing into Lake Michigan, with the Des Plaines River, flowing
into the Illinois River, which in turn discharges into the Mississippi
opposite a point not far from St. Louis. It is probable that the first
white men to visit the city of Chicago were Father Marquette (1637-1675)
and Louis Joliet, though La Salle may have used the portage at an
earlier date in the course of one of his journeys of exploration. It is
certain, however, that La Salle established a fort at Starved Rock, some
miles south of the present city of Chicago, in 1682; and it is in the
journal of one of La Salle's followers, Joutel, that we find the first
explanation of the name "Chicago." Joutel says that Chicago took its
name from the profusion of garlic growing in the surrounding woods.

    Joutel and his party were in Chicago in March, 1688, when lack of
    provision forced them to rely on whatever they could find in the
    woods. It appears that Providence furnished them with a "kind of
    manna" to eat with their meal. This seems to have been maple sap.
    They also procured in the woods garlic and other plants. The name
    Chicago may have come from the Indian word _ske-kog-ong_, wild
    onion place.

After the departure of Father Marquette several other mission
settlements were attempted at Chicago, but these were all abandoned in
1700 and for almost a century Chicago ceased to be a place of residence
for white men.

The strategic value of Chicago as a centre of control for the regions of
the Great Lakes and the Mississippi River had long been recognized, but
it was not until after the Battle of Fallen Timbers (1794), that the
government took active steps to establish a fort here. The treaty made
by Gen. Wayne with the Indians after that battle provided for the
cession to the American government of a tract of land at the southern
end of Lake Michigan including the site of the present city. In 1803 Ft.
Dearborn, a block-house and stockade, was constructed by the government
on the southern bank of the Chicago River near the present site of the
Michigan bridge.

In 1812, during the Indian War of Tecumseh, the Ft. Dearborn massacre
occurred. The garrison, 93 persons in all, including several women and
children, were attempting to escape to Ft. Wayne, when they were set
upon by some 500 Indians about a mile and a half south of the fort
(southern part of the present Grant Park). The Americans killed included
39 soldiers, 2 women and 12 children. The survivors were captured by the
Indians and though some were tortured and put to death, the majority
finally escaped to civilization A tablet now marks the site of the old
fort and a monument has been erected near Grant Park commemorating the
massacre. In 1816 the fort was rebuilt and a settlement rapidly grew up
around it. By 1837 the Federal government had begun the improvement of
the harbor and had started the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The lake
trade grew to enormous proportions, and the building of the railways,
especially the New York Central Lines connecting Chicago with the East,
as well as other lines connecting it with the Northwest, and the South,
gave the city an extraordinary impetus.

At the Republican convention held at Chicago in 1860, Abraham Lincoln
was nominated for the presidency and during the Civil War, Camp Douglas,
a large prison camp for Confederate prisoners, was maintained here.

    The Republican national convention, which made "extension of
    slavery" the essential plank of the party platform, met at
    Chicago on the 26th of May, 1860. At this time William H. Seward
    was the most conspicuous Republican in national politics; Salmon
    P. Chase also had long been in the forefront of the political
    contest against slavery. Both had won greater fame than Lincoln,
    and each hoped to be nominated for president. Chase, however, had
    little chance, and the contest was virtually between Seward and
    Lincoln, who by many was considered more "available" because he
    could, and Seward could not, carry the votes of certain doubtful
    states. Lincoln's name was presented by Illinois and seconded by
    Indiana. At first Seward had the stronger support, but on the
    fourth ballot Lincoln was given 334 (233 being necessary) and the
    nomination was then made unanimous. The convention was singularly
    tumultuous and noisy: large claques were hired by both Lincoln's
    and Seward's managers.

    [Illustration: Block House at Chicago in 1856]

The great fire in 1871 was the most serious check to the city's
constantly increasing prosperity, but recovery from this disaster was
rapid. The solidity of this prosperity was demonstrated during the
financial panic of 1873, when Chicago banks alone among those of the
large cities of the country continued steadily to pay out current funds.

    The precise cause of the great fire is not known, but it is
    popularly attributed to Mrs. O'Leary's cow, which according to
    tradition "kicked over the lamp" and started the flames. The fire
    spread over an area of 3-1/3 Sq. M., and destroyed 1,700
    buildings and property valued at $196,000,000. Almost 100,000
    people were made homeless, and 250 lost their lives. The relief
    contributions from the United States and abroad amounted to
    nearly $5,000,000, of which about $500,000 was contributed in
    England. The fire at least gave an opportunity to rebuild the old
    wooden city with brick and stone.

The later history has been marked on the one hand by serious labor
troubles and on the other by the remarkable achievement of the World's
Columbian Exposition (1893). The labor outbreaks included several
strikes in the packing industry, the Haymarket Riot in 1886, and the
Pullman Strike in 1894.

    The Haymarket Riot grew out of a strike in the McCormick
    harvester works. Hostility against the employers had been
    fomented by a group of so-called International Anarchists and the
    struggle culminated at the Anarchist meeting at the Haymarket
    Square. When the authorities said that the speeches were too
    revolutionary to be allowed to continue and the police undertook
    to disperse the meeting, a bomb was thrown and seven policemen
    were killed. Seven anarchists were ultimately convicted as being
    conspirators and accomplices and were condemned to death. Four
    were hanged, one committed suicide, two had their death sentences
    commuted to life imprisonment, and eight anarchists were
    sentenced to imprisonment for 15 years. In 1893 Gov. Altgeld
    pardoned those still in prison.

    The leader of the Pullman strike, which began in the Pullman car
    works, was Eugene Debs (1855), who was the Socialist candidate
    for President in the election of 1920, although he was then in
    the penitentiary at Atlanta for violating the Espionage Act
    during the World War. The strike spread to the railways, and
    caused great disorder until President Cleveland dispatched
    federal troops to Chicago.

The exposition was an artistic and educational triumph, and its
influence on the progress of the city cannot be overestimated The
exposition gave Chicago an artistic conscience one of the direct results
of which was the organization of the City Plan Commission, a body which
is at work reshaping the city in the interests of greater beauty and
utility.

    The exposition commemorated the 400th anniversary of the
    discovery of America by Columbus. It was held in Jackson Park, on
    the south side of the city, and covered an area of 686 acres. The
    buildings (planned by a commission of architects of which D.H.
    Burnham was the chief) formed a collection of remarkable beauty,
    to which the grounds (planned by F.L. Olmsted), intersected by
    lagoons and bordered by a lake, lent an appropriate setting. The
    fair was opened to the public May 1, 1893, and the total number
    of admissions was 27,500,000. The total cost was more than
    $33,000,000.

Owing largely to its central position and to its excellent railroad
facilities, Chicago has been a favorite city for national political
conventions ever since the nomination of Lincoln Others nominated here
have been Grant (1866 and 1872), Garfield (1880), Cleveland (1884 and
1892). Harrison (1888), Roosevelt (1904), Taft (1908) and Harding
(1920); and in addition a number of candidates who were unsuccessful
including Blaine (1884), Harrison (1892), Bryan (1896), Taft (1912),
Roosevelt (1912), and Hughes (1916).

To most foreign visitors and even to many Americans the growth of
Chicago is its most impressive feature. Within a little more than 100
years Chicago has grown from a settlement of 14 houses, a frontier
military post among the Indians to a great metropolis, the second city
in America and fourth in size among the cities of the world. In 1829
what is now the business centre was fenced in as a pasture; in 1831 the
Chicago mail was deposited in a dry goods box; the tax levy of 1834 was
$48.90, and a well that constituted the city's water-system was sunk at
a cost of $95.50. In 1843 hogs were by ordinance barred from the
streets.

    There are residents of Chicago still living who can remember the
    early days when the first village school stood on the ground now
    occupied by the Boston Store at Dearborn and Madison Sts. Some
    even insist they remember when wolves were trapped on the site of
    the present Tribune building. In the early period the streets of
    the little town were thick with mire in the rainy season, and it
    is said that signs were placed at appropriate points with
    inscriptions such as "No Bottom Here," "Stage Dropped Here," etc.
    The first improvement of note in Chicago was an inclined plank
    road in Lake St., arranged with a gutter in the center for
    drainage. It was the only safe route over which stage coaches
    from the west could enter the town.

In 1830 with a population of less than 100, in 1840 with 4,479, the
increase by percentages in succeeding decades was as follows: 507, 265,
174, 68, 119, 54, 29, and (1910 to 1920) 23. Approximately 75 per cent
of Chicago's population is of foreign birth or parentage. This foreign
population is made up principally of Germans, about 50 per cent, Irish
12, Austrian 13, Russian 10, Swedish 6, Italian 4, Canadian, including
French Canadians, 4, and English 4.

It has been said that Chicago is "the second largest Bohemian city in
the world, the third Swedish, the fourth Norwegian, the fifth Polish and
the fifth German (New York being the fourth)." This ought not to be
construed, however, as a reflection on the fundamental Americanism of
Chicago's citizens.

The growth in area has kept pace with the growth in population. As
originally plotted in 1830, the town had an area of a little less than
half a square mile; today it covers an area of practically 200 Sq.M. Its
greatest length (north and south) is 26 M., and the greatest width (east
and west) is 9 M.

The Chicago River with its three, branches divides the city into three
sections--the North, South and West sides. Technically the downtown or
"loop" district (so-called because of the elevated railway which
encircles the central business section) belongs to the south side,
though usually it is classified separately.

    The Chicago River formerly flowed into Lake Michigan. It was then
    an exceedingly dirty stream and a menace to health. In order to
    improve the character of the river and also to give the Chicago
    adequate sanitary drainage, dredging operations to reverse the
    direction of flow of the river were undertaken, and canals were
    constructed connecting it with the Illinois River. This great
    engineering feat was begun in 1892 and completed in 1900. The
    total expenditure on the drainage canals since 1892 has been more
    than $100,000,000.

In no other great city is the business district so concentrated as is
the case in Chicago. Within an area of a little more than 1 Sq. M. are
located the principal office buildings, department stores, shops, hotels
and theatres. Not far from the centre of this district is the new City
Hall and County Building, an 11-story structure costing $5,000,000.

Chicago is generally credited with being the original home of the steel
frame sky-scraper, though there are now many higher buildings in New
York and elsewhere. The height of buildings in Chicago is limited by
city ordinance to about 22 stories.

At La Salle St., where it is crossed by the southern arm of the elevated
"loop" is the New York Central Station, an impressive building which
stands closer to heart of Chicago's financial and business section than
any other railway station in the city.

Michigan Ave., just to the east of the business centre, possesses a
truly noble aspect, and the visitor could not select a better place to
begin his tour of the city. Due to the monotonous regularity of the
streets and the all-pervading soft coal smoke, Chicago presents on the
whole a somewhat drab appearance, but the view from Grant Park or from
the lake front (with Michigan Ave. in the foreground) is nearly, if not
quite, as fine as anything N.Y. has to offer. In Michigan Ave. are the
Public Library (with a beautiful interior), the Art Institute (with fine
collections of pictures and one of the largest art schools in the
country), Orchestra Hall (the home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra),
the "Blackstone" Hotel and a number of fine shops.

Michigan Ave., by way of Lake Shore Drive on the north, and by way of
Midway Plaisance on the south, connects with Chicago's fine park
system. The principal parks are joined by beautiful boulevards
encircling the entire city, and a delightful two hours' motor trip (45
M.) will enable the tourist to visit Lincoln Park on the north,
Humboldt, Garfield and Douglas parks on the west, and Washington and
Jackson parks on the south.

    [Illustration: Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge]

For reference a general summary of Chicago's "points of interest"
exclusive of those already mentioned is here given.


North Side

Lincoln Park: Academy of Sciences Museum; botanical conservatories and a
zoological garden with a splendid Lion House. Also the fine Saint
Gaudens Statue of Lincoln at the entrance and other monuments in the
park.

Chicago Historical Society Library and Collection, Dearborn Ave. and
Ontario St.; an interesting collection of historic relics and documents.

The Municipal pier, at the foot of Grand Ave., built by the city at a
cost of $4,000,000; devoted to recreational activities as well as to
commercial purposes. Excursion steamers may be taken here to various
points on the lake.

The Newberry Library, a free reference library, Clark St. and Walton
Place.

Northwestern University, in Evanston (at the extreme North of the
city--actually outside the city limits). Northwestern University is a
Methodist-Episcopal institution of about 5,000 students.

Ft. Sheridan. A U.S. military post north of Evanston.

Lake Forest, a fashionable suburb north of Ft. Sheridan.


South Side

Life Saving Station at the mouth of the Chicago River.

Tablet marking site of Ft. Dearborn, River St., opposite the old Rush
St. Bridge.

Crerar Library, East Randolph St., a reference library devoted chiefly
to scientific subjects; open to the public.

Board of Trade, La Salle and Jackson Sts.; visitors may obtain admission
to gallery overlooking the famous wheat pit.

Auditorium hotel and theatre building, Michigan Ave. at Congress St.;
view of city from tower.

The Coliseum building, 16th St. and Wabash Ave.; all the national
Republican conventions of recent years have been held here.

Field Museum of Natural History (founded by Marshall Field), in Grant
Park; a fine anthropological and historical collection. The Museum,
originally housed in a temporary building in Jackson Park, was made
possible by the gift of $1,000,000 by Marshall Field, who on his death
(1906) bequeathed a further $8,000,000 of which $4,000,000 has been used
for the new building.

Ft. Dearborn Massacre Monument, 18th St., near the lake.

Armour Institute of Technology, founded by the Armour family, 3300
Federal St.

Douglas Monument, 35th St. near Lake Michigan; Stephen A. Douglas is
buried here.

    Stephen A. Douglas (1813-1861) was born in Vermont, but in 1833
    he went west and settled in Jacksonville, Ill., where he was
    admitted to the bar in 1834. He identified himself with the
    Jackson Democrats and his political rise was rapid even for the
    west. Among other offices, he held those of Judge of the Supreme
    Court of Illinois, representative in Congress and senator from
    Illinois. Although he did more perhaps than other men, except
    Henry Clay, to secure the adoption of the Compromise Measures of
    1850, he seems never to have had any moral antipathy against
    slavery. His wife and children were by inheritance owners of
    slaves. In 1858 he engaged in a close and exciting contest for
    the senatorship with Abraham Lincoln, the Republican Candidate,
    whom he met in a series of debates over slavery that soon became
    famous and brought Lincoln prominently into public favor, though
    he was defeated in this particular contest.

The Stockyards, Halsted and Root St. In area the yards exceed 400 acres;
they have facilities for taking care of 50,000 cattle, 20,000 hogs,
30,000 sheep and 5,000 horses. The great packing plants are clustered
around the stockyards.

The University of Chicago, Ellis Ave., south of 51st St. This university
was established under Baptist auspices and opened in 1892. The words
"founded by John D. Rockefeller" (whose donations to the institution
form the largest part of its endowment) follow the title of the
university on all its letter heads and official documents. Mr.
Rockefeller's benefactions to the university have been very large. The
grounds, however, were given in part by Marshall Field. The buildings
are mostly of grey limestone, in Gothic style and grouped in
quadrangles. With the exception of the divinity school, the institution
is non-sectarian and has about 8,700 students of both sexes.


West Side

The "Ghetto" District on South Canal, Jefferson, and Maxwell Sts.; Fish
Market on Jefferson St. from 12th St. to Maxwell.

Hull House, 800 South Halsted St. This famous settlement house was
established in 1899 by Miss Jane Addams; who became head resident, and
Miss Ellen Gates Starr. It includes a gymnasium, a crêche and a diet
kitchen, and supports classes, lectures and concerts.

Haymarket Square, Randolph and Des Plaines Sts.; scene of the anarchist
riots.

Sears, Roebuck & Co., a great mail order house which does a business of
over $250,000,000 a year retail. Guides are provided to show visitors
around the establishment, which is easily reached on the elevated
railway.

Western Electric Co., 22nd St. and Forty-eighth Ave. This company
supplies the chief part of the equipment of the Bell telephone companies
of the U.S. and has about 17,000 employees.

McCormick Harvester Works of the International Harvester Co. This is one
of the 23 plants of the greatest manufacturers of agricultural machinery
in the world.

Chicago's position at the head of the most southwestern of the Great
Lakes was the primary factor in determining its remarkable growth and
prosperity. But with the decline of water transportation the city has
not suffered, for it stands at one of the natural cross roads of trade
and travel. Today it is the chief railroad centre not only in the U.S.
but in the world. Not counting subsidiary divisions there are 27
railroads entering Chicago, which is the western terminus of the great
New York Central System.

Chicago is thus the focus of the activities of half a continent. It is
the financial centre of the west and the metropolis of the richest
agricultural section in the country. These circumstances have
contributed to make it the greatest grain and live stock market in the
world. But its accessibility to the raw materials of industrial
development has also made it a great manufacturing city. Chicago has
more than 10,000 factories and the output of its manufacturing zone is
probably more than $3,000,000,000 annually. The principal industries and
manufactures are meat packing, foundry and machine shop products,
clothing, cars and railway construction, agricultural implements,
furniture, and (formerly) malt liquors.




             FACTS ABOUT THE NEW YORK CENTRAL RAILROAD COMPANY

The New York Central Lines comprise 14,242 miles of track. As part of
the track equipment, there are 40,000,000 wooden ties, worth about $1
each. On these ties are 1,727,000 tons of steel rail, worth $96,000,000.
There are 32 tunnels, costing $10,000,000, and 19,000 bridges and
culverts, costing $60,000,000. In the principal cities the New York
Central's terminals cover about 4,800 acres, assessed at more than
$100,000,000. The deeds for right-of-way for the section east of Buffalo
alone number more than 30,000.

    Passengers carried annually                        66,063,480
    Freight carried annually (tons)                   113,534,840
    No. of employees (1919)                                95,340
    No. of locomotives                                      3,840
    No. of passenger cars                                   3,500
    No. of dining cars                                         70
    No. of freight cars                                   144,840
    Operating Revenues, 1910                        $ 153,383,590
    Amount paid employees (1919)                      148,244,390
    Taxes paid                                         17,376,120
    Funded debt (bonds)                               748,354,470
    Stock issued                                      249,849,360
    Actual investment                               1,134,500,940
    Excess of investment over outstanding securities  136,297,110
    Operating Revenues, 1880                           51,925,370
    Operating Revenues, 1890                           59,484,870
    Operating Revenues, 1900                           81,029,460
    Operating Revenues, 1910                          153,383,590
    Operating Revenues, 1920                          338,624,450

This booklet is based on The Encyclopædia Britannica. If you have found
it interesting and entertaining, you will find the Britannica a source
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With the Britannica you may make your tours as extensive as you like,
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out-of-the-way places as Kamchatka and Tahiti. But you will also wish to
use the Encyclopædia Britannica as a guide in your business, your
profession or your hobby. In every activity of life, whether it pertains
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Encyclopædia Britannica will furnish you on demand, at the very moment
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"The Encyclopædia Britannica is as necessary in your home as electric
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