On the evening of the 21st of January, the Vincennes,
with the tender in company, left the bay of Manilla. I then sent for
Mr. Knox, who commanded the latter, and gave him directions to keep
closely in company with the Vincennes, and at the same time pointed out
to him places of rendezvous where the vessels might again meet in case
any unavoidable circumstance caused their separation. I was more
particular in giving him instructions to avoid losing sight of the
Vincennes, as I was aware that my proposed surveys might be impeded or
frustrated altogether, were I deprived of the assistance of the vessel
under his command.
On the 22d, we passed the entrance of the Straits of San Bernadino.
It would have been my most direct route to follow these straits until I
had passed Mindoro, and it is I am satisfied the safest course, unless
the winds are fair, for the direct passage. My object, however, was to
examine the ground for the benefit of others, and the Apo Shoal, which
lies about mid-channel between Palawan and Mindoro, claimed my first
attention. The tender was despatched to survey it, while I proceeded in
the Vincennes to examine the more immediate entrance to the Sooloo Sea,
off the southwest end of Mindoro.
Calavite Peak is the north point of Mindoro, and [132]our
observations made it two thousand feet high. This peak is of the shape
of a dome, and appears remarkably regular when seen from its western
side. On approaching Mindoro, we, as usual, under high islands, lost
the steady breeze, and the wind became light for the rest of the day.
Mindoro is a beautiful island, and is evidently volcanic; it appears as
if thrown up in confused masses: it is not much settled, as the more
southern islands are preferred to it as a residence.
On the 23d, we ascertained the elevation of the highest peak of the
island by triangulation to be three thousand one hundred and twenty-six
feet. The easternmost island of the Palawan Group, Busvagan,17 was at the time just in sight from the deck, to
the southwest.
It had been my intention to anchor at Ambolou Island;18 but the wind died away before we reached it, and
I determined to stand off and on all night.
On the 24th, I began to experience the truth of what Captain Halcon
had asserted, namely, that the existing charts were entirely worthless,
and I also found that my native pilot was of no more value than they
were: he had evidently passed the place before; but whether the size of
the vessel, so much greater than any he had sailed in, confused him, or
whether it was from his inability to understand and to make himself
understood by us, he was of no use whatever, and we had the misfortune
of running into shoal water, barely escaping the bottom. These
[133]dangers were usually quickly passed, and we soon
found ourselves again floating in thirty or forty fathoms water.
We continued beating to windward, in hopes of being joined by the
Flying-Fish, and I resolved to finish the survey toward the island of
Semarrara.19 We found every thing in a different position from
that assigned it by any of the charts20 with which
we were furnished. On this subject, however, I shall not dwell, but
refer those who desire particular information to the charts and
Hydrographical Memoir.
Towards evening, I again ran down to the southwest point of the
island of Mindoro, and sent a letter on shore to the pueblo, with
directions to have it put on board the tender, when she should arrive.
We then began to beat round Semarara, in order to pass over towards
Panay.
The southern part of Mindoro is much higher than the northern, but
appears to be equally rough. It is, however, susceptible of
cultivation, and there are many villages along its shores.
Semarara is moderately high, and about fifteen miles in
circumference; it is inhabited, and like Mindoro much wooded. According
to the native pilot, its shores are free from shoals. It was not until
[134]the next day that we succeeded in reaching
Panay. I determined to pass the night off Point Potol, the north end of
Panay, as I believed the sea in its neighborhood to be free of shoals,
and wished to resume our running survey early in the morning.
At daylight on the 27th we continued the survey down the coast of
Panay, and succeeded in correcting many errors in the existing charts
(both English and Spanish). The channel along this side is from twelve
to twenty miles wide, and suitable for beating in; little current is
believed to exist; and the tides, as far as our observations went, seem
to be regular and of little strength.
The island of Panay is high and broken, particularly on the south
end; its shores are thickly settled and well cultivated. Indigo and
sugar-cane claim much of the attention of the inhabitants. The Indians
are the principal cultivators. They pay to the government a capitation
tax of seven rials. Its population is estimated at three hundred
thousand, which I think is rather short of the actual number.21
On all the hills there are telegraphs of rude construction, to give
information of the approach of piratical prahus from Sooloo, which
formerly were in the habit of making attacks upon the defenceless
inhabitants and carrying them off into slavery. Of late years they have
ceased these depredations, for the Spaniards have resorted to a new
mode of warfare. Instead of pursuing and punishing the offenders, they
now intercept all their supplies, both of necessaries and luxuries; and
the fear of this has had the effect to deter the pirates from their
usual attacks. [135]
We remained off San Pedro for the night, in hopes of falling in with
the Flying-Fish in the morning.
On the morning of the 28th, the Flying-Fish was discovered plainly
in sight. I immediately stood for her, fired a gun and made signal. At
seven o’clock another gun was fired, but the vessel still stood
off, and was seen to make sail to the westward without paying any
regard whatever to either, and being favoured by a breeze while the
Vincennes was becalmed, she stole off and was soon out of
sight.22
After breakfast we opened the bay of Antique, on which is situated
the town of San José.23 As this bay apparently offered
anchorage for vessels bound up this coast, I determined to survey it;
and for this purpose the boats were hoisted out and prepared for
surveying. Lieutenant Budd was despatched to visit the pueblo called
San José.
On reaching the bay, the boats were sent to different points of it,
and when they were in station, the ship fired guns to furnish bases by
the sound, and angles were simultaneously measured. The boats made
soundings on their return to the ship, and thus completed this duty, so
that in an hour or two afterwards the bay was correctly represented on
paper. It offers no more than a temporary anchorage for vessels, and
unless the shore is closely approached, the water is almost too deep
for the purpose.
At San José a Spanish governor resides, who presides over the
two pueblos of San Pedro and San [136]José, and does the
duty also of alcalde. Lieutenant Budd did not see him, as he was
absent, but his lady did the honours. Lieutenant Budd represented the
pueblo as cleanly and orderly. About fifteen soldiers were seen, who
compose the governor’s guard, and more were said to be stationed
at San Pedro. A small fort of eight guns commands the roadstead. The
beach was found to be of fine volcanic sand, composed chiefly of oxide
of iron, and comminuted shells; there is also a narrow shore-reef of
coral. The plain bordering the sea is covered with a dense growth of
cocoa-nut trees. In the fine season the bay is secure, but we were
informed that in westerly and southwesterly gales heavy seas set in,
and vessels are not able to lie at anchor. Several small vessels were
lying in a small river about one and a half miles to the southward of
the point on which the fort is situated. The entrance to this river is
very narrow and tortuous.
Panay is one of the largest islands of the group. We had an
opportunity of measuring the height of some of its western peaks or
highlands, none of which exceed three thousand feet.24 The
interior and eastern side have many lofty summits, which are said to
reach an altitude of seven thousand five hundred feet; but these, as we
passed, were enveloped in clouds, or shut out from view by the nearer
highlands. The general features of the island are like those of Luzon
and Mindoro. The few specimens [137]we obtained of its rocks
consisted of the different varieties of talcose formation, with quartz
and jasper. The specimens were of no great value, as they were much
worn by lying on the beach.
The higher land was bare of trees, and had it not been for the
numerous fertile valleys lying between the sharp and rugged spurs, it
would have had a sterile appearance.
The bay of Antique is in latitude 10° 40′ N., longitude
121° 59′ 30″ E.
It was my intention to remain for two or three days at a convenient
anchorage to enable us to make short excursions into the interior; but
the vexatious mismanagement of the tender now made it incumbent that I
should make every possible use of the time to complete the operations
connected with the hydrography of this sea; for I perceived that the
duties that I intended should be performed by her, would now devolve
upon the boats, and necessarily expose both officers and men to the
hazard of contracting disease. I regretted giving up this design, not
only on my own account and that of the Expedition, but because of the
gratification it would have afforded personally to the naturalists.
The town of San José has about thirty bamboo houses, some of
which are filled in with clay or mortar, and plastered over, both
inside and out. Few of them are more than a single story in height.
That of the governor is of the same material, and overtops the rest; it
is whitewashed, and has a neat and cleanly appearance. In the vicinity
of the town are several beautiful valleys, which run into the mountains
from the plain that borders the bay. The landing is on a bamboo bridge,
which has been [138]erected over an extensive mud-flat, that is
exposed at low water, and prevents any nearer approach of boats. This
bridge is about seven hundred feet in length; and a novel plan has been
adopted to preserve it from being carried away. The stems of bamboo not
being sufficiently large and heavy to maintain the superstructure in
the soft mud, a scaffold is constructed just under the top, which is
loaded with blocks of large stone, and the outer piles are secured to
anchors or rocks, with grass rope. The roadway or top is ten feet wide,
covered with split bamboo, woven together, and has rails on each side,
to assist the passenger. This is absolutely necessary for safety; and
even with this aid, one accustomed to it must be possessed of no little
bodily strength to pass over this smooth, slippery, and springy bridge
without accident.
Two pirogues were at anchor in the bay, and on the shore was the
frame of a vessel which had evidently been a long while on the stocks,
for the weeds and bushes near the keel were six or eight feet high, and
a portion of the timbers were decayed. Carts and sleds drawn by
buffaloes were in use, and every thing gave it the appearance of a
thriving village. Although I have mentioned the presence of soldiers,
it was observed on landing that no guard was stationed about or even at
the fort; but shortly afterwards a soldier was seen hurrying towards
the latter, in the act of dressing himself in his regimentals, and
another running by his side, with his cartridge-box and musket. In a
little while one was passing up and down on his post, as though he was
as permanent there as the fort itself.
After completing these duties, the light airs [139]detained us the remainder of the day under
Panay, in sight of the bay. On the 29th, at noon, we had been wafted by
it far enough in the offing to obtain the easterly breeze, which soon
became strong, with an overcast sky, and carried us rapidly on our
course; my time would not permit my heaving-to. We kept on our course
for Mindanao during the whole night, and were constantly engaged in
sounding, with our patent lead, with from thirty to forty fathoms cast,
to prevent our passing over this part of the sea entirely
unexamined.
At daybreak on the 31st, we had the island of Mindanao before us,
but did not reach its western peak until 5 P.
M. This island is high and broken, like those to the north of
it, but, unlike them, its mountains are covered with forests to their
very tops, and there were no distinct cones of minor dimensions, as we
had observed on the others. If they do exist, they were hidden by the
dense forest.
I had determined to anchor at Caldera, a small port on the southwest
side of Mindanao, about ten miles distant from Samboangan, where the
governor resides. The latter is a considerable place, but the anchorage
in its roadstead is said to be bad, and the currents that run through
the Straits of Basillan are represented to be strong. Caldera, on the
other hand, has a good, though small anchorage, which is free from the
currents of the straits. It is therefore an excellent stopping-place,
in case of the tide proving unfavourable. On one of its points stands a
small fort, which on our arrival hoisted Spanish colours.
At six o’clock we came to anchor at Caldera, in seven fathoms
water. There were few indications of inhabitants, except at and near
the fort. An officer [140]was despatched to the fort, to report the
ship. It was found to be occupied by a few soldiers under the command
of a lieutenant.
The fort is about seventy feet square, and is built of large blocks
of red coral, which evidently have not been taken from the vicinity of
the place, as was stated by the officers of the fort; for, although our
parties wandered along the alluvial beach for two or three miles in
each direction, no signs of coral were observed. Many fragments of red,
gray, and purple basalt and porphyry were met with along the beach;
talcose rock and slate, syenite, hornblend, quartz, both compact and
slaty, with chalcedony, were found in pieces and large pebbles. Those
who were engaged in dredging reported the bottom as being of coral, in
from four to six or eight fathoms; but this was of a different kind
from that of which the fort was constructed.
The fort was built in the year 1784,25 principally
for protection against the Sooloo pirates, who were in the habit of
visiting the settlements, and carrying off the inhabitants as slaves,
to obtain ransom for them. This, and others of the same description,
were therefore constructed as places of refuge for the inhabitants, as
well as to afford protection to vessels.
Depredations are still committed, which render it necessary to keep
up a small force. One or two huts which were seen in the neighbourhood
of the bay, are built on posts twenty feet from the ground, and into
them they ascend by ladders, which are hauled up after the occupants
have entered. [141]
These, it is said, are the sleeping-huts, and are so built for the
purpose of preventing surprise at night. Before our arrival we had
heard that the villages were all so constructed, but a visit to one
soon showed that this was untrue. The natives seen at the village were
thought to be of a decidedly lighter colour and a somewhat different
expression from the Malays. They were found to be very civil, and more
polished in manners than our gentlemen expected. On asking for a drink
of water, it was brought on a glass tumbler on a china plate. An old
woman to whom they had presented some trifles, took the trouble to meet
them in another path on their return, and insisted on their accepting a
basket of potatoes. Some of the houses contained several families, and
many of them had no other means of entrance than a notched stick stuck
on to the door.
The forests of Mindanao contain a great variety of trees, some of
which are of large size, rising to the height of one hundred and one
hundred and fifty feet. Some of their trunks are shaped like
buttresses, similar to those before spoken of at Manilla, from which
they obtain broad slabs for the tops of tables. The trunks were
observed to shoot up remarkably straight. Our botanical gentlemen,
though pleased with the excursion, were disappointed at not being able
to procure specimens from the lofty trees; and the day was less
productive in this respect than they had anticipated. Large woody vines
were common, which enveloped the trunks of trees in their folds, and
ascending to their tops, prevented the collection of the most desirable
specimens.
The paths leading to the interior were narrow and much obstructed;
one fine stream was crossed. [142]Many buffaloes were observed
wallowing in the mire, and the woods swarmed with monkeys and numbers
of birds, among them the horn-bills: these kept up a continued chatter,
and made a variety of loud noises. The forests here are entirely
different from any we had seen elsewhere; and the stories of their
being the abodes of large boas and poisonous snakes, make the effect
still greater on those who visit them for the first time. Our parties,
however, saw nothing of these reptiles, nor any thing to warrant a
belief that such exist. Yet the officer at the fort related to me many
snake stories that seemed to have some foundation; and by inquiries
made elsewhere, I learned that they were at least warranted by some
facts, though probably not to the extent that he represented.
Traces of deer and wild hogs were seen, and many birds were
obtained, as well as land and sea shells. Among the latter was the
Malleus vulgaris, which is used as food by the natives. The soil on
this part of the island is a stiff clay, and the plants it produces are
mostly woody; those of an herbaceous character were scarce, and only a
few orchideous epiphytes and ferns were seen. Around the dwellings in
the villages were a variety of vegetables and fruits, consisting of
sugar-cane, sweet-potato, gourds, pumpkins, peppers, rice, water and
musk melons, all fine and of large size.
The officer of the fort was a lieutenant of infantry: one of that
rank is stationed here for a month, after which he, with the garrison,
consisting of three soldiers, are relieved, from Samboángan,
where the Spaniards have three companies.
Samboangan is a convict settlement, to which the [143]native rogues, principally thieves, are sent.
The Spanish criminals, as I have before stated in speaking of Manilla,
are sent to Spain.
The inhabitants of the island of Mindanao who are under the
subjection of Spain, are about ten thousand in number, of whom five or
six thousand are at or in the neighbourhood of Samboangan. The original
inhabitants, who dwell in the mountains and on the east coast, are said
to be quite black, and are represented to be a very cruel and bad set;
they have hitherto bid defiance to all attempts to subjugate them. When
the Spaniards make excursions into the interior, which is seldom, they
always go in large parties on account of the wild beasts, serpents, and
hostile natives; nevertheless, the latter frequently attack and drive
them back.
The little fort is considered as a sufficient protection for the
fishermen and small vessels against the pirates, who inhabit the island
of Basillan, which is in sight from Mindanao, and forms the southern
side of the straits of the same name. It is said that about seven
hundred inhabit it. The name of Moor is given by the Spaniards to all
those who profess the Mohammedan religion, and by such all the islands
to the west of Mindanao, and known under the name of the Sooloo
Archipelago, are inhabited.
The day we spent at Caldera was employed in surveying the bay, and
in obtaining observations for its geographical position, and for
magnetism. The flood tide sets to the northward and westward, through
the straits, and the ebb to the eastward. In the bay we found it to run
two miles an hour by the log, but it must be much more rapid in the
straits.
At daylight on the 1st of February, we got under [144]way
to stand over for the Sangboys,26 a small island with two
sharp hills on it. One and a half miles from the bay we passed over a
bank, the least water on which was ten fathoms on a sandy bottom, and
on which a vessel might anchor. The wind shortly after failed us, and
we drifted with the tide for some hours, in full view of the island of
Mindanao, which is bold and picturesque. We had thus a good opportunity
of measuring some of its mountain ranges, which we made about three
thousand feet high.
In the afternoon, a light breeze came from the southwest, and before
sunset I found that we were again on soundings. As soon as we had a
cast of twenty fathoms, I anchored for the night, judging it much
better than to be drifting about without any knowledge of the locality
and currents to which we were subjected.
On the morning of the 2d, we got under way to proceed to the
westward. As the bottom was unequal, I determined to pass through the
broadest channel, although it had the appearance of being the shoalest,
and sent two boats ahead to sound. In this way we passed through,
continuing our surveying operations, and at the same time made an
attempt to dredge; but the ground was too uneven for the latter
purpose, and little of value was obtained.
Shortly after passing the Sangboys, we had the island of Sooloo in
sight, for which I now steered direct. At sunset we found ourselves
within five or six miles of Soung Harbour; but there was not sufficient
[145]light to risk the dangers that might be in our
course, nor wind enough to command the ship; and having no bottom where
we were, I determined again to run out to sea, and anchor on the first
bank I should meet. At half past eight o’clock, we struck
soundings in twenty-six fathoms, and anchored.
At daylight we continued our position by angles, and found it to
correspond with part of the route we had passed over the day before,
and that we were about fifteen miles from the large island of Sooloo.
Weighing anchor, we were shortly wafted by the westerly tide and a
light air toward that beautiful island, which lay in the midst of its
little archipelago; and as we were brought nearer and nearer, we came
to the conclusion that in our many wanderings we had seen nothing to be
compared to this enchanting spot. It appeared to be well cultivated,
with gentle slopes rising here and there into eminences from one to two
thousand feet high. One or two of these might be dignified with the
name of mountains, and were sufficiently high to arrest the passing
clouds; on the afternoon of our arrival we had a singular example in
the dissipation of a thunderstorm.
Although much of the island was under cultivation, yet it had all
the freshness of a forest region. The many smokes on the hills,
buildings of large size, cottages, and cultivated spots, together with
the moving crowds on the land, the prahus, canoes, and fishing-boats on
the water, gave the whole a civilized appearance. Our own vessel lay,
almost without a ripple at her side, on the glassy surface of the sea,
carried onwards to our destined anchorage by the flowing tide, and
scarce a sound was heard except [146]the splashing of the lead as
it sought the bottom. The effect of this was destroyed in part by the
knowledge that this beautiful archipelago was the abode of a cruel and
barbarous race of pirates. Towards sunset we had nearly reached the bay
of Soung, when we were met by the opposing tide, which frustrated all
our endeavors to reach it, and I was compelled to anchor, lest we
should again be swept to sea.
As soon as the night set in, fishermen’s lights were seen
moving along the beach in all directions, and gliding about in canoes,
while the sea was filled with myriads of phosphorescent
animalculæ. After watching this scene for two or three hours in
the calm and still night, a storm that had been gathering reached us;
but it lasted only for a short time, and cleared off after a shower,
which gave the air a freshness that was delightful after the sultry
heat we had experienced during the day.
The canoes of this archipelago were found to be different from any
that we had hitherto seen, not only in shape but in making use of a
double out-rigger, which consequently must give them additional
security. The paddle also is of a different shape, and has a blade at
each end, which are used alternately, thus enabling a single person to
manage them with ease. These canoes are built of a single log, though
some are built upon. They seldom carry more than two persons. The
annexed figure will give a correct figure of one of them.27
We saw the fishermen engaged in trolling and using the line; but the
manner of taking fish which has been hitherto described is chiefly
practised.28 [147]In fishing, as well as in all
their other employments, the kris and spear were invariably by their
side.
The next morning at eight o’clock we got under way, and were
towed by our boats into the bay of Soung,29 where we
anchored off the town in nine fathoms water. While in the act of doing
so, and after our intentions had become too evident to admit of a
doubt, the Sultan graciously sent off a message giving us permission to
enter his port.
Lieutenant Budd was immediately despatched with the interpreter to
call upon the Datu Mulu or governor, and to learn at what hour we could
see the Sultan. When that officer reached the town, all were found
asleep; and after remaining four hours waiting, the only answer he
could get out of the Datu Mulu was, that he supposed that the Sultan
would be awake at three o’clock, when he thought I could see
him.
During this time the boats had been preparing for surveying; and
after landing the naturalists, they began the work.
At the appointed time, Captain Hudson and myself went on shore to
wait upon the Sultan. On our approach to the town, we found that a
great portion of it was built over the water on piles, and only
connected with the shore by narrow bridges of bamboo. The style of
building in Sooloo does not differ materially from that of the Malays.
The houses are [148]rather larger, and they surpass the others in
filth.30
We passed for some distance between the bridges to the landing, and
on our way saw several piratical prahus apparently laid up. Twenty of
these were counted, of about thirty tons burden, evidently built for
sea-vessels, and capable of mounting one or two long guns. We landed at
a small streamlet, and walked a short distance to the Datu’s
house, which is of large dimensions and rudely built on piles, which
raise it about six feet above the ground, and into which we were
invited. The house of the Datu contains one room, part of which is
screened off to form the apartment of his wife. Nearly in the center is
a raised dais, eight or ten feet square, under which are stowed all his
valuables, packed in chests and Chinese trunks. Upon this dais are
placed mats for sleeping, with cushions, pillows, &c.; and over it
is a sort of canopy, hung round with fine chintz or muslin.
The dais was occupied by the Datu who is, next to the Sultan, the
greatest man of this island. He at once came from it to receive us, and
had chairs provided for us near his sanctum. After we were seated, he
again retired to his lounge. The Datu is small in person, and emaciated
in form, but has a quick eye and an intelligent countenance. He lives,
as he told me, with all his goods around him, and they formed a
collection such as I could scarcely imagine it possible to bring
together in such a place. The interior put me in mind of a barn
inhabited by a company of strolling players. On one side were hung up a
collection of various kinds of gay dresses, here drums [149]and
gongs, there swords, lanterns, spears, muskets, and small cannon; on
another side were shields, bucklers, masks, saws, and wheels, with
belts, bands, and long robes. The whole was a strange mixture of
tragedy and farce; and the group of natives were not far removed in
appearance from the supernumeraries that a Turkish tragedy might have
brought together in the green-room of a theatre.
A set of more cowardly-looking miscreants I never saw. They appeared
ready either to trade with us, pick our pockets, or cut our throats, as
an opportunity might offer.
The wife’s apartment was not remarkable for its comforts,
although the Datu spoke of it with much consideration, and evidently
held his better half in high estimation. He was also proud of his six
children, the youngest of whom he brought out in its nurse’s
arms, and exhibited with much pride and satisfaction. He particularly
drew my attention to its little highly-wrought and splendidly-mounted
kris, which was stuck through its girdle, as an emblem of his rank. It
was in reality a fine-looking child. The kitchen was behind the house,
and occupied but a small space, for they have little in the way of food
that requires much preparation. The house of the Datu might justly be
termed nasty.
We now learned the reason why the Sultan could not be seen: it was
Friday, the Mahomedan Sabbath, and he had been at the mosque from an
early hour.31 Lieutenant Budd had been detained, because it was
not known when he would finish his prayers; and the ceremonies of the
day were more important [150]than usual, on account of its
peculiar sanctity in their calendar.
Word had been sent off to the ship that the Sultan was ready to
receive me, but the messenger passed us while on our way to the shore.
After we had been seated for a while, the Datu asked if we were ready
to accompany him to see the Sultan; but intimated that no one but
Captain Hudson and myself could be permitted to lay eyes on him. Being
informed that we were, he at once, and in our presence, slipped on his
silken trousers, and a new jacket, covered with bell-buttons; put on
his slippers, strapped himself round with a long silken net sash, into
which he stuck his kris, and, with umbrella in hand, said he was ready.
He now led the way out of his house, leaving the motley group behind,
and we took the path to the interior of the town, towards the
Sultan’s. The Datu and I walked hand in hand, on a roadway about
ten feet wide, with a small stream running on each side. Captain Hudson
and the interpreter came next, and a guard of six trusty slaves brought
up the rear.
When we reached the outskirts of the town, about half a mile from
the Datu’s, we came to the Sultan’s residence, where he was
prepared to receive us in state. His house is constructed in the same
manner as that of the Datu, but is of larger dimensions, and the piles
are rather higher. Instead of steps, we found a ladder, rudely
constructed of bamboo, and very crazy. This was so steep that it was
necessary to use the hands in mounting it. I understood that the ladder
was always removed in the night, for the sake of security. We entered
at once into the presence-chamber, where the whole divan, if such it
may be called, sat in arm chairs, occupying the half of a [151]large round table, covered with a white cotton
cloth. On the opposite side of the table, seats were placed for us. On
our approach, the Sultan and all his council rose, and motioned us to
our seats. When we had taken them, the part of the room behind us was
literally crammed with well-armed men. A few minutes were passed in
silence, during which time we had an opportunity of looking at each
other, and around the hall in which we were seated. The latter was of
very common workmanship, and exhibited no signs of oriental
magnificence. Overhead hung a printed cotton cloth, forming a kind of
tester, which covered about half of the apartment. In other places the
roof and rafters were visible. A part of the house was roughly
partitioned off, to the height of nine or ten feet, enclosing, as I was
afterwards told, the Sultan’s sleeping apartment, and that
appropriated to his wife and her attendants.
The Sultan is of the middle height, spare and thin; he was dressed
in a white cotton shirt, loose trousers of the same material, and
slippers; he had no stockings; the bottom of his trousers was worked in
scollops with blue silk, and this was the only ornament I saw about
him. On his head he wore a small coloured cotton handkerchief, wound
into a turban, that just covered the top of his head. His eyes were
bloodshot, and had an uneasy wild look, showing that he was under the
effects of opium, of which they all smoke large quantities.32 His teeth were as black as ebony, which, with his
bright cherry-coloured lips, contrasted with his swarthy skin, gave him
anything but a pleasant look.
On the left hand of the Sultan sat his two sons, [152]while his right was occupied by his councillors;
just behind him, sat the carrier of his betel-nut casket. The casket
was of filigree silver, about the size of a small tea-caddy, of oblong
shape, and rounded at the top. It had three divisions, one for the
leaf, another for the nut, and a third for the lime.33 Next to
this official was the pipe-bearer, who did not appear to be held in
such estimation as the former.
I opened the conversation by desiring that the Datu would explain
the nature of our visit, and tell the Sultan that I had come to make
the treaty which he had some time before desired to form with the
United States.34
The Sultan replied, that such was still his desire; upon which I
told him, I would draw one up for him, that same day. While I was
explaining to him the terms, a brass candlestick was brought in with a
lighted tallow candle, of a very dark colour and rude shape, that
showed but little art in the manufacture. This was placed in the center
of the table, with a plate of Manilla cigars. None of them, however,
were offered to us, nor any kind of refreshment.
Our visit lasted nearly an hour. When we arose to take our leave,
the Sultan and his divan did the same, and we made our exit with low
bows on each side.
I looked upon it as a matter of daily occurrence for all those who
came to the island to visit the Sultan; [153]but the Datu Mulu
took great pains to make me believe that a great favour had been
granted in allowing us a sight of his ruler. On the other hand, I dwelt
upon the condescension it was on my part to visit him, and I refused to
admit that I was under any gratitude or obligation for the sight of His
Majesty the Sultan Mohammed Damaliel Kisand, but said that he might
feel grateful to me if he signed the treaty I would prepare for
him.
On our return from the Sultan’s to the Datu Mulu’s
house, we found even a greater crowd than before. The Datu, however,
contrived to get us seats. The attraction which drew it together was to
look at Mr. Agate, who was making a sketch of Mohammed Polalu, the
Sultan’s son, and next heir to the throne.35 I had hoped
to procure one of the Sultan, but this was declared to be impossible.
The son, however, has all the characteristics of the Sooloos, and the
likeness was thought an excellent one. Mohammed Polalu is about
twenty-three years of age, of a tall slender figure, with a long face,
heavy and dull eyes, as though he was constantly under the influence of
opium.36 So much, indeed, [154]was he addicted to
the use of this drug, even according to the Datu Mulu’s accounts,
that his strength and constitution were very much impaired. As he is
kept particularly under the guardianship of the Datu, the latter has a
strong interest in preserving this influence over him, and seems on
this account to afford him every opportunity of indulging in this
deplorable habit.
During our visit, the effect of a pipe of this drug was seen upon
him; for but a short time after he had reclined himself on the
Datu’s couch and cushion, and taken a few whiffs, he was entirely
overcome, stupid, and listless. I had never seen any one so young,
bearing such evident marks of the effects of this deleterious drug.
When but partially recovered from its effects he called for his
betel-nut, to revive him by its exciting effects. This was carefully
chewed by his attendant to a proper consistency, moulded in a ball
about the size of a walnut, and then slipped into the mouth of the heir
apparent.
One of the requests I had made of the Sultan was, that the officers
might have guides to pass over the [155]island. This was at once said
to be too dangerous to be attempted, as the datus of the interior and
southern towns would in all probability attack the parties. I
understood what this meant, and replied that I was quite willing to
take the responsibility, and that the party should be well armed. To
this the Sultan replied, that he would not risk his own men. This I saw
was a mere evasion, but it was difficult and would be dangerous for our
gentlemen to proceed alone, and I therefore said no more. On our return
to the Datu’s, I gave them permission to get as far from the
beach as they could, but I was afterwards informed by them that in
endeavoring to penetrate into the woods, they were always stopped by
armed men. This was also the case when they approached particular parts
of the town, but they were not molested as long as their rambles were
confined to the beach. At the Datu’s we were treated to chocolate
and negus in gilt-edge tumblers, with small stale cakes, which had been
brought from Manilla.
After we had sat some time I was informed that Mr. Dana missed his
bowie-knife pistol, which he had for a moment laid down on a chest. I
at once came to the conclusion that it had been stolen, and as the
theft had occurred in the Datu’s house, I determined to hold him
responsible for it, and gave him at once to understand that I should do
so, informing him that the pistol must be returned before the next
morning, or he must take the consequences. This threw him into some
consternation, and by my manner he felt that I was serious.
Captain Hudson and myself, previous to my return on board, visited
the principal parts of the town. The Chinese quarter is separated by a
body of water, [156]and has a gateway that leads to a bridge. The
bridge is covered by a roof, and on each side of it are small shops,
which are open in front, and thus expose the goods they contain. In the
rear of the shops were the dwellings of the dealers. This sort of
bazaar contained but a very scanty assortment, and the goods were of
inferior quality.
We visited some blacksmith-shops, where they were manufacturing
krises and spears. These shops were open sheds; the fire was made upon
the ground, and two wooden cylinders, whose valves were in the bottom,
served for bellows; when used, they had movable pistons which were
worked by a man on an elevated seat, and answered the purpose better
than could have been expected.
The kris is a weapon in which this people take great pride; it is of
various shapes and sizes, and is invariably worn from infancy to old
age; they are generally wavy in their blades, and are worn in wooden
scabbards, which are neatly made and highly polished. This weapon is
represented in the tailpiece to this chapter.
The market was well stocked with fruit and fish, Among the former
the durian seemed to predominate; this was the first time we had seen
it. It has a very disagreeable odour, as if decayed, and appears to
emit a sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which I observed blackened silver.
Some have described this fruit as delicious, but if the smell is not
enough, the taste in my opinion will convince any one of the
contrary.
Mr. Brackenridge made the following list of their fruits: Durian,
Artocarpus integrifolia, Melons, water and musk, Oranges, mandarin and
bitter, Pine-apples, [157]Carica papaya, Mangosteen, Breadfruit,
Cocoa and Betel-nut. The vegetables were capsicums, cucumbers, yams,
sweet-potatoes, garlic, onions, edible fern-roots, and radishes of the
salmon variety, but thicker and more acrid in flavour.
In walking about the streets of the town we were permitted to enter,
large slabs of cut granite were seen, which were presumed to be from
China, where the walls of canals or streamlets are lined with it. But
Dr. Pickering in his rambles discovered pieces that had been cut as if
to form a monument, and remarked a difference between it and the
Chinese kind. On one or two pieces he saw the mark No. 1, in black
paint; the material resembled the Chelmsford granite, and it occurred
to him that the stone had been cut in Boston.37 I did not
hear of this circumstance until after we had left Sooloo, and have
little doubt now that the interdiction against our gentlemen visiting
some parts of the town was owing to the fact of the discovery of this
plunder. This may have been the reason why they so readily complied
with my demands, in order to get rid of us as soon as possible, feeling
themselves guilty, and being unprepared for defence; for, of the
numerous guns mounted, few if any were serviceable.
The theft of the pistol was so barefaced an affair, that I made up
my mind to insist on its restoration. At the setting of the watch in
the evening, it had been our practice on board the Vincennes to fire a
small brass howitzer. This frequently, in the calm [158]evenings, produced a great reverberation, and
rolled along the water to the surrounding islands with considerable
noise. Instead of it, on this evening, I ordered one of the long guns
to be fired, believing that the sound and reverberation alone would
suffice to intimidate such robbers. One was accordingly fired in the
direction of the town, which fairly shook the island, as they said, and
it was not long before we saw that the rogues were fully aroused, for
the clatter of gongs and voices that came over the water, and the
motion of lights, convinced me that the pistol would be forthcoming in
the morning. In this I was not mistaken, for at early daylight I was
awakened by a special messenger from the Datu to tell me that the
pistol was found, and would be brought off without delay; that he had
been searching for it all night, and had succeeded at last in finding
it, as well as the thief, on whom he intended to inflict the bastinado.
Accordingly, in a short time the pistol was delivered on board, and
every expression of friendship and good-will given, with the strongest
assurances that nothing of the kind should happen again.
As our naturalists could have no opportunity of rambling over the
island of Sooloo, it was thought that one of the neighbouring islands
(although not so good a field) would afford them many of the same
results, and that they could examine it unmolested. Accordingly, at an
early hour, they were despatched in boats for that purpose, with a
sufficient guard to attend them in case of necessity. The island on
which they landed is called Marongas38 on the map
of the [159]group annexed to this chapter. On it are two
hills of volcanic conglomerate and vesicular lava, containing angular
fragments embedded. The bottom was covered with living coral, of every
variety, and of different colours; but there was nothing like a regular
coral shelf, and the beach was composed of bits of coral intermixed
with dead shells, both entire and comminuted. The centre of the island
was covered with mangrove-bushes; the hills were cones, but had no
craters on them. The mangroves had grown in clusters, giving the
appearance of a number of small islands. This, with the neighbouring
islets, were thought to be composed in a great part of coral, but it
was impossible for our gentlemen to determine the fact.
The day was exceedingly hot, and the island was suffering to such a
degree from drought that the leaves in many cases were curled and
appeared dry. On the face of the rocky cliff they saw many swallows
(hirundo esculenta) flying in and out of the caverns facing the sea;
but they were not fortunate enough to find any of the edible nests, so
much esteemed by Chinese epicures.
At another part of the island they heard the crowing of a cock, and
discovered a small village, almost hidden by the mangroves, and built
over the water. In the neighbourhood were several fish-baskets set out
to dry, as well as a quantity of fencing for weirs, all made of rattan.
Their shape was somewhat peculiar. After a little while the native
fishermen were seen approaching, who evidently had a knowledge of their
visit from the first. They came near with great caution in their
canoes; but after the first had spoken and reconnoitred, several others
landed, [160]exhibiting no signs of embarrassment, and soon
motioned our party off. To indicate that force would be resorted to, in
case of refusal, at the same time they pointed to their arms, and drew
their krises. Our gentlemen took this all in good part, and after
dispensing a few trifling presents among them, began their retreat with
a convenient speed, without, however, compromising their dignity.
The excursion had been profitable in the way of collections, having
yielded a number of specimens of shrubs and trees, both in flower and
fruit; but owing to the drought, the herbaceous plants were, for the
most part, dried up. Among the latter, however, they saw a large and
fine terrestrial species of Epidendrum, whose stem grew to the height
of several feet, and when surmounted by its flowers reached twelve or
fifteen feet high. Many of the salt-marsh plants seen in the Feejees,
were also observed here. Besides the plants, some shells and a
beautiful cream-coloured pigeon were obtained.
During the day we were busily engaged in the survey of the harbour,
and in making astronomical and magnetical observations on the beach,
while some of the officers were employed purchasing curiosities, on
shore, at the town, and alongside the ship. These consisted of krises,
spears, shields, and shells; and the Sooloos were not slow in
comprehending the kind of articles we were in search of.
Few if any of the Sooloos39 can write or read, though many
speak Spanish. Their accounts are all [161]kept by the slaves.
Those who can read and write are, in consequence, highly prized. All
the accounts of the Datu of Soung are kept in Dutch, by a young Malay
from Ternate, who writes a good hand, and speaks English, and whom we
found exceedingly useful to us. He is the slave of the Datu, who
employs him for this purpose only. He told us he was captured in a brig
by the pirates of Basillan, and sold here as a slave, where he is
likely to remain for life, although he says the Datu has promised to
give him his freedom after ten years.
Horses, cows and buffaloes are the beasts of burden, and a Sooloo
may usually be seen riding either one or the other, armed cap-a-pie,
with kris, spear, and target, or shield.
They use saddles cut out of solid wood, and many ride with their
stirrups so short that they bring the knees very high, and the riders
look more like well-grown monkeys than mounted men. The cows and
buffaloes are guided by a piece of thong, through the cartilage of the
nose. By law, no swine are allowed to be kept on the island, and if any
are brought, they are immediately killed. The Chinese are obliged to
raise and kill their pigs very secretly, when they desire that species
of food; for, notwithstanding the law and the prejudices of the
inhabitants, the former continue to keep swine.
The inhabitants of Sooloo are a tall, thin, and effeminate-looking
race: I do not recollect to have seen one corpulent person among them.
Their faces are peculiar for length, particularly in the lower jaw and
chin, with high cheek-bones, sunken, lack-lustre eyes, and narrow
foreheads. Their heads are thinly covered with hair, which appears to
be kept closely [162]cropped. I was told that they pluck out
their beards, and dye their teeth black with antimony.
Their eyebrows appear to be shaven, forming a very regular and high
arch, which they esteem a great beauty.
The dress of the common people is very much like that of the
Chinese, with loose and full sleeves, without buttons. The materials of
which it is made are grass-cloth, silks, satins, or white cotton, from
China. I should judge, from the appearance of their persons, that they
ought to be termed, so far as ablutions go, a cleanly people. There is
no outward respect or obeisance shown by the slave to his master, nor
is the presence of the Datu, or even of the Sultan himself, held in any
awe. All appear upon an equality, and there does not seem to be any
controlling power; yet it may be at once perceived that they are
suspicious and jealous of strangers.
The Sooloos, although they are ready to do any thing for the sake of
plunder, even to the taking of life, yet are not disposed to hoard
their ill-gotten wealth, and, with all their faults, cannot be termed
avaricious.
They have but few qualities to redeem their treachery, cruelty, and
revengeful dispositions; and one of the principal causes of their being
so predominant, or even of their existence, is their inordinate lust
for power. When they possess this, it is accompanied by a haughty,
consequential, and ostentatious bravery. No greater affront can be
offered to a Sooloo, than to underrate his dignity and official
consequence. Such an insult is seldom forgiven, and never forgotten.
From one who has made numerous voyages to these islands, I have
obtained many of the above facts, [163]and my own observation
assures me that this view of their character is a correct one. I would,
however, add another trait, which is common among them, and that is
cowardice, which is obvious, in spite of their boasted prowess and
daring. This trait of character is universally ascribed to them among
the Spaniards in the Philippines, who ought to be well acquainted with
them.
The dress of the women is not unlike that of the men in appearance.
They wear close jackets of various colours when they go abroad, and the
same loose breeches as the men, but over them they usually have a large
wrapper (sarong), not unlike the pareu of the Polynesian islanders,
which is put round them like a petticoat, or thrown over the shoulders.
Their hair is drawn to the back of the head, and around the forehead it
is shaven in the form of a regular arch to correspond with the
eyebrows. Those that I saw at the Sultan’s were like the Malays,
and had light complexions with very black teeth. The Datu thought them
very handsome, and on our return he asked me if I had seen the
Sultan’s beauties. The females of Sooloo have the reputation of
ruling their lords, and possess much weight in the government by the
influence they exert over their husbands.
It may be owing to this that there is little jealousy of their
wives, who are said to hold their virtues in no very great estimation.
In their houses they are but scantily clothed, though women of rank
have always a large number of rings on their fingers, some of which are
of great value, as well as earrings of fine gold. They wear no
stockings, but have on Chinese slippers, or Spanish shoes. They are as
capable of governing as their husbands, and in many cases more
[164]so, as they associate with the slaves, from whom
they obtain some knowledge of Christendom, and of the habits and
customs of other nations, which they study to imitate in every way.
The mode in which the Sooloos employ their time may be exemplified
by giving that of the Datu; for all, whether free or slave, endeavor to
imitate the higher rank as far as is in their power. The datus seldom
rise before eleven o’clock, unless they have some particular
business; and the Datu Mulu complained of being sleepy in consequence
of the early hour at which we had disturbed him.
On rising, they have chocolate served in gilt glass-ware, with some
light biscuit, and sweetmeats imported from China or Manilla, of which
they informed me they laid in large supplies. They then lounge about
their houses, transacting a little business, and playing at various
games, or, in the trading season, go to the meeting of the Ruma
Bechara.
At sunset they take their principal meal, consisting of stews of
fish, poultry, beef, eggs, and rice, prepared somewhat after the
Chinese and Spanish modes, mixed up with that of the Malay. Although
Moslems, they do not forego the use of wine, and some are said to
indulge in it to a great extent. After sunset, when the air has become
somewhat cooled by the refreshing breezes, they sally forth attended by
their retainers to take a walk, or proceed to the bazaars to purchase
goods, or to sell or to barter away their articles of produce. They
then pay visits to their friends, when they are in the habit of having
frequent convivial parties, talking over their bargains, smoking
cigars, drinking wine and liquors, tea, coffee, and chocolate, and
indulging in their [165]favorite pipe of opium. At times they are
entertained with music, both vocal and instrumental, by their
dependants. Of this art they appear to be very fond, and there are many
musical instruments among them. A datu, indeed, would be looked upon as
uneducated if he could not play on some instrument.
It is considered polite that when refreshments are handed they
should be partaken of. Those offered us by the Datu were such as are
usual, but every thing was stale. Of fruit they are said to be very
fond, and can afford to indulge themselves in some kinds. With all
these articles to cloy the appetite, only one set meal a day is taken;
though the poorer classes, fishermen and labourers, partake of two.
The government of the Sooloo Archipelago is a kind of oligarchy, and
the supreme authority is vested in the Sultan and the Ruma Bechara or
trading council. This consists of about twenty chiefs, either datus, or
their next in rank, called orangs,40 who are governors of towns
or detached provinces. The influence of the individual chiefs depends
chiefly upon the number of their retainers or slaves, and the force
they can bring into their service when they require it. These are
purchased from the pirates, who bring them to Sooloo and its
dependencies for sale. The slaves are employed in a variety of ways, as
in trading prahus, in the pearl and biche de mar41 fisheries,
and in the search after the edible birds’-nests.
A few are engaged in agriculture, and those who [166]are
at all educated are employed as clerks. These slaves are not denied the
right of holding property, which they enjoy during their lives, but at
their death it reverts to the master. Some of them are quite rich, and
what may appear strange, the slaves of Sooloo are invariably better off
than the untitled freemen, who are at all times the prey of the
hereditary datus, even of those who hold no official stations. By all
accounts these constitute a large proportion of the population, and it
being treason for any low-born freeman to injure or maltreat a datu,
the latter, who are of a haughty, overbearing, and tyrannical
disposition, seldom keep themselves within bounds in their treatment of
their inferiors. The consequence is, the lower class of freemen are
obliged to put themselves under the protection of some particular datu,
which guards them from the encroachment of others. The chief to whom
they thus attach themselves, is induced to treat them well, in order to
retain their services, and attach them to his person, that he may, in
case of need, be enabled to defend himself from depredations, and the
violence of his neighbours.
Such is the absence of legal restraint, that all find it necessary
to go abroad armed, and accompanied by a trusty set of followers, who
are also armed. This is the case both by day and night, and according
to the Datu’s account, frequent affrays take place in the open
streets, which not unfrequently end in bloodshed.
Caution is never laid aside, the only law that exists being that of
force; but the weak contrive to balance the power of the strong by
uniting. They have not only contentions and strife among themselves,
but [167]it was stated at Manilla that the mountaineers
of Sooloo, who are said to be Christians, occasionally make inroads
upon them. At Sooloo, however, it did not appear that they were much
under apprehension of these attacks. The only fear I heard expressed
was by the Sultan, in my interview with him; and the cause of this, as
I have already stated, was probably a desire to find an excuse for not
affording us facilities to go into the interior. Within twenty years,
however, the reigning Sultan has been obliged to retire within his
forts, in the town of Sooloo, which I have before adverted to.
These people are hostile to the Sooloos of the coasts and towns, who
take every opportunity to rob them of their cattle and property, for
which the mountaineers seek retaliation when they have an opportunity.
From the manner in which the Datu spoke of them, they are not much
regarded. Through another source I learned that the mountaineers were
Papuans, and the original inhabitants of the islands, who pay tribute
to the Sultan, and have acknowledged his authority ever since they were
converted to Islamism.42 Before that time they were
considered extremely ferocious, and whenever it was practicable they
were destroyed. Others speak of an original race of Dyacks in the
interior, but there is one circumstance to satisfy me that there is no
confidence to be placed in this account, namely, that the island is not
of sufficient extent to accommodate so numerous a population as some
ascribe to it.
The forts consist of a double row of piles, filled in [168]with
coral blocks. That situated on the east side of the small stream may be
said to mount a few guns, but these are altogether inefficient; and in
another, on the west side, which is rather a rude embankment than a
fort, there are some twelve or fifteen pieces of large calibre; but I
doubt very much if they had been fired off for years, and many of the
houses built upon the water would require to be pulled down before
these guns could be brought to bear upon any thing on the side of the
bay, supposing them to be in a good condition; a little farther to the
east of the town, I was informed they had a kind of stockade, but none
of us were permitted to see it.
According to our estimates, and the information we received while at
Sooloo, the island itself does not contain more than thirty thousand
inhabitants, of which the town of Soung may have six or seven thousand.
The whole group may number about one hundred and thirty thousand. I am
aware, however, that it is difficult to estimate the population of a
half-civilized people, who invariably exaggerate their own strength;
and visiters are likewise prone to do the same thing. The Chinese
comprise about an eighth of the population of the town, and are
generally of the lower class. They are constantly busy at their trades,
and intent upon making money.
At Soung, business seems active, and all, slaves as well as masters,
seem to engage in it. The absence of a strong government leaves all at
liberty to act for themselves, and the Ruma Bechara gives unlimited
freedom to trade. These circumstances promote the industry of the
community, and even that of the slave, for he too, as before observed,
has a life interest in what he earns.
Soung being the residence of the Sultan, as well [169]as
the grand depôt for all piratical goods, is probably more of a
mart than any of the surrounding towns. In the months of March and
April it is visited by several Chinese junks, who remain trading until
the beginning of the month of August. If delayed after that time, they
can scarcely return in safety, being unable to contend with the
boisterous weather and head winds that then prevail in the Chinese
seas. These junks are said to come chiefly from Amoy, where the
cottons, &c., best suited for the Sooloos are made. Their cargoes
consist of a variety of articles of Chinese manufacture and produce,
such as silk, satin goods, cottons, red and checked, grass-cloth
clothing, handkerchiefs, cutlery, guns, ammunition, opium, lumber,
china and glass-ware, rice, sugar, oil, lard, and butter. In return for
this merchandise they obtain camphor, birds’-nests, rattans,
biche de mar, pearls and pearl-shells, cocoa, tortoise-shell, and wax;
but there is no great quantity of these articles to be obtained,
perhaps not more than two or three cargoes during the season. The trade
requires great knowledge of the articles purchased, for the Chinese and
Sooloos are both such adepts in fraud, that great caution and
circumspection are necessary.
The duties on importation are not fixed, but are changed and altered
from time to time by the Ruma Bechara. The following was stated to me
as the necessary payments before trade could be carried on.
| A large ship, with Chinese on board, pays |
$2,000 |
| A large ship, without Chinese on board, pays |
1,800 |
| Small ships, |
1,500 |
| Large brig, |
1,000 |
| Small brig, |
500 |
| Schooners, |
from 150 to 400 |
This supposes them all to have full cargoes. That [170]a
difference should be made in a vessel with or without Chinamen, seems
singular; but this, I was told, arose from the circumstance that
English vessels take them on board, in order to detect and prevent the
impositions of the Sooloos.
Vessels intending to trade at Soung should arrive before the Chinese
junks, and remain as long as they stay, or even a few days later. In
trading with the natives, all operations ought to be carried on for
cash, or if by barter, no delivery should be made until the articles to
be taken in exchange are received. In short, it is necessary to deal
with them as though they were undoubted rogues, and this pleases them
much more than to appear unsuspicious. Vessels that trade engage a
bazaar, which they hire of the Ruma Bechara, and it is advisable to
secure the good-will of the leading datus in that council by presents,
and paying them more for their goods than others.
There are various other precautions necessary in dealing with this
people; for they will, if possible, so act as to give rise to disputes,
in which case an appeal is made to their fellows, who are sure to
decide against the strangers. Those who have been engaged in this
trade, advise that the prices of the goods should be fixed upon before
the Sultan, and the scales of the Datu of Soung employed; for although
these are quite faulty, the error is compensated by the articles
received being weighed in the same. This also secures the Datu’s
good-will, by the fee (some fifty dollars) which he receives for the
use of them. Thus it will be perceived that those who desire to trade
with Sooloo, must make up their minds to encounter many impositions,
and to be continually watchful of their own interests. [171]
Every possible precaution ought to be taken; and it will be found,
the treatment will depend upon, or be according to the force or
resolution that is displayed. In justice to this people it must be
stated, there have been times when traders received every kindness and
attention at the island of Sooloo, and I heard it even said, that many
vessels had gone there to refit; but during the last thirty or forty
years, the reigning sultans and their subjects have become hostile to
Europeans, of whom they plunder and destroy as many as they can, and
this they have hitherto been allowed to do with impunity.
Although I have described the trade with Sooloo as limited, yet it
is capable of greater extension; and had it not been for the piratical
habits of the people, the evil report of which has been so widely
spread, Sooloo would now have been one of the principal marts of the
East. The most fertile parts of Borneo are subject to its authority.
There all the richest productions of these Eastern seas grow in immense
quantities, but are now left ungarnered in consequence of there being
no buyers. The cost of their cultivation would be exceedingly low, and I
am disposed to believe that these articles could be produced here at a
lower cost than any where else.
Besides the trade with China, there is a very considerable one with
Manilla in small articles, and I found one of our countrymen engaged in
this traffic, under the Spanish flag. To him I am indebted for much
information that his opportunities for observation had given him.
The materials for the history of Sooloo are meagre, and great doubts
seem to exist in some periods of it. That which I have been able to
gather is as follows. [172]
The island of Sooloo is generally believed to have been originally
inhabited by Papuans, some of whom, as I have already stated, are still
supposed to inhabit the mountainous part. The first intercourse had
with them was by the Chinese, who went there in search of pearls. The
Orang Dampuwans were the first of the Malays to form settlements on the
islands; but after building towns, and making other improvements, they
abandoned the islands, in consequence, it is said, of the inhabitants
being a perfidious race, having previously to their departure destroyed
as many of the natives as they could.
The fame of the submarine riches of this archipelago reached Banjur,
or Borneo, the people of which were induced to resort there, and
finding it to equal their expectation, they sent a large colony, and
made endeavours to win over the inhabitants, and obtain thereby the
possession of their rich isle. In order to confirm the alliance, a
female of Banjarmassing,43 of great beauty, was sent, and
married to the principal chief; and from this alliance the sovereigns
of Sooloo claim their descent. The treaty of marriage made Sooloo
tributary to the Banjarmassing empire.
After the Banjars had thus obtained possession of the archipelago,
the trade in its products attracted settlers from the surrounding
islands, who soon contrived to displace the aborigines, and drive them
to the inaccessible mountains for protection. [173]
When the Chinese took possession of the northern parts of Borneo,
under the Emperor Songtiping, about the year 1375,44 the
daughter of that prince was married to a celebrated Arabian chief named
Sherif Alli, who visited the shores of Borneo in quest of commerce. The
descendants of this marriage extended their conquests not only over the
Sooloo Archipelago, but over the whole of the Philippines, and rendered
the former tributary to Borneo. In three reigns after this event, the
Sultan of Borneo proper married the daughter of a Sooloo chief, and
from this union came Mirhome Bongsu, who succeeding to the throne while
yet a minor, his uncle acted as regent. Sooloo now wished to throw off
the yoke of Borneo, and through the intrigues of the regent succeeded
in doing so, as well as in retaining possession of the eastern side of
Borneo, from Maludu Bay on the north to Tulusyan on the south, which
has ever since been a part of the Sooloo territory.
This event took place before Islamism became the prevailing
religion; but which form of idolatry, the Sooloos pretend, is not now
known. It is, however, believed the people on the coast were
Bud[d]hists, while those of the interior were Pagans.
The first Sultan of Sooloo was Kamaludin, and during his reign one
Sayed Alli, a merchant, arrived at Sooloo from Mecca. He was a sherif,
and soon converted one-half the islanders to his own faith. He was
elected sultan on the death of Kamaludin, and [174]reigned seven years, in the course of which he
became celebrated throughout the archipelago. Dying at Sooloo, a tomb
was erected to him there, and the island came to be looked upon by the
faithful as the Mecca of the East, and continued to be resorted to as a
pilgrimage until the arrival of the Spaniards.
Sayed Alli left a son called Batua, who succeeded him. The latter
had two sons, named Sabudin and Nasarudin, who, on the death of their
father, made war upon each other. Nasarudin, the youngest, being
defeated, sought refuge on Tawi Tawi, where he established himself, and
built a fort for his protection. The difficulties were finally
compromised, and they agreed to reign together over Sooloo. Nasarudin
had two sons, called Amir and Bantilan, of whom the former was named as
successor to the two brothers, and on their deaths ascended the throne.
During his reign another sherif arrived from Mecca, who succeeded in
converting the remainder of the population to Islamism. Bantilan and
his brother Amir finally quarrelled, and the latter was driven from
Sooloo to seek refuge in the island of Basillan, where he became
sultan.45
On the arrival of the Spaniards in 1566, a kind of desultory war was
waged by them upon the various islands, in the hope of conquering them
and extending their religion. In these wars they succeeded in gaining
temporary possession of a part of Sooloo, and destroyed the tomb of
Sayed Alli. The Spaniards always looked upon the conversion of the
Moslems to the true Catholic faith with great interest; [175]but
in the year 1646, the sultan of Magindanao succeeded in making peace,
by the terms of which the Spaniards withdrew from Sooloo, and were to
receive from the sultan three cargoes of rice annually as a
tribute.
In 1608, the small-pox made fearful ravages, and most of the
inhabitants fled from the scourge. Among these was the heir apparent,
during whose absence the throne became vacant, and another was elected
in his stead. This produced contention for a short time, which ended in
the elected maintaining his place.
This tribute continued to be paid until the flight of Amir to
Basillan, about the year 1752, where he entered into a secret
correspondence with the authorities at Samboangan, and after two years
a vessel was sent from Manilla, which carried him to that capital,
where he was treated as a prisoner of state.
In June, 1759, an English ship, on board of which was Dalrymple,
then in the service of the East India Company, arrived at Sooloo on a
trading voyage. Dalrymple remained at Sooloo for three months, engaged
in making sales and purchases. The Sultan Bantilan treated him with
great kindness, and sought the interest of Dalrymple to obtain the
liberation of his brother, who was now held prisoner by the Spaniards
at Manilla, by telling him of his brother’s wife, who had been
left behind when Amir quitted the island, and had been delivered of
twins, after he had been kidnapped by the Spaniards. Dalrymple entered
into a pledge to restore Amir, and at the same time effected a
commercial treaty between the East India Company and the Sooloo
[176]chiefs. By this it was stipulated that an annual
cargo should be sent to Sooloo, and sold at one hundred per cent.
profit, for which a return cargo should be provided for the China
market, which should realize an equal profit there, after deducting all
expenses. The overplus, if any, was to be carried to the credit of the
Sooloos. This appears to have been the first attempt made by the
English to secure a regular commercial intercourse with this
archipelago.
In the year 1760, a large fleet of Spanish vessels sailed from
Manilla, with about two thousand men, having the Sultan Amir on board,
to carry on a war against Sooloo.
On their arrival, they began active operations. They were repelled
on all sides, and after seven days’ ineffectual attempts, they
gave up their design. They returned to Manilla, it is said, with a loss
of half their number, and without having done any injury to the
Sooloos. Not discouraged with this failure, the Spaniards, about two
years after, organized a still larger force, which is estimated by some
accounts as high as ten thousand men. Although this failed in its
attempts on the fort at Soung, the Spaniards obtained possession of
Tanjong Matonda, one of the small ports on the island, where they
erected a church and fort. Here they established a colony, and
appointed a governor. The inhabitants upon this deserted their
habitations in the neighbourhood, and fled to the mountains, which, it
is said, excited the mountaineers, a host of whom, with their chief,
whose name was Sri Kala, determined to rush upon the Spaniards, and
annihilate them. Having to contend against disciplined troops, it was
not an easy [177]task to succeed. But Sri Kala had a follower,
named Sigalo, who offered to lead the host to battle against the
Spaniards, and to exterminate them, or to die in the attempt. The chief
accepted his offer, and Sigalo, with a chosen few, marched towards the
fort, leaving the rest of the mountaineers in readiness to join them at
an appointed signal, and rush into the fort en masse.
Sri Kala and Sigalo, in order to lull the watchfulness of the
Spaniards, took with them a young woman, of exquisite beauty, named
Purmassuri. The lustful Spaniards were thus thrown off their guard, the
signal was given, and the host, rushing forward, entered the fort,
every Spaniard within which was slain. A few only, who were on the
outside, escaped to the vessels, which set sail, and after encountering
various mishaps, returned to Manilla
Some time after this the Sultan Bantilan died, and his son
Alimud-deen was proclaimed sultan. Dalrymple did not return until 1762,
with a part of the appointed cargo; but the vessel in which the larger
part had been shipped, failed to arrive, from not being able to find
Sooloo, and went to China. Thence she proceeded to Manilla, and
afterwards to Sooloo. The captain of the latter vessel gave a new
credit to the Sooloos, before they had paid for their first cargo; and
on the arrival of Dalrymple the next time, he found that the small-pox
had carried off a large number of the inhabitants, from which
circumstance all his hopes of profit were frustrated. He then obtained
for the use of the East India Company, a grant of the island of
Balambangan, which lies off the north end of Borneo, forming one side
of the Straits of Balabac, the western entrance to the [178]Sooloo Sea. Here he proposed to establish a
trading port, and after having visited Madras, he took possession of
this island in 1763.
In October, 1763, the English took Manilla,46 where the
Sultan Amir was found by Dalrymple, who engaged to reinstate him on his
throne, if he would cede to the English the north end of Borneo, as
well as the south end of Palawan. This he readily promised, and he was,
in consequence, carried back to Sooloo, and reinstated; his nephew,
Alim-ud-deen, readily giving place to him, and confirming the grant to
the East India Company, in which the Ruma Bechara joined.
After various arrangements, the East India Company took possession
of Balambangan, in the year 1773, and formed a settlement there with a
view of making it an emporium of trade for Eastern commodities. Troops
and stores were sent from India, and the population began to increase
by settlers, both Chinese and Malays, who arrived in numbers. In the
year 1775, the fort, notwithstanding all the treaties and engagements
between Dalrymple and the Sultan, was surprised by the Sultan, and many
of the garrison put to death. This virtually put an end to the plans of
the English, although another attempt was made to re-establish the
settlement by Colonel Farquhar, in 1803; but it was thought to be too
expensive a post, and was accordingly abandoned in the next year. This
act of the Sooloos fairly established their character for perfidy, and
ever since that transaction they have been looked upon as treacherous
in the highest degree, and, what is singular, [179]have
been allowed to carry on their piracies quite unmolested. The taking of
Balambangan has been generally imputed to the treacherous disposition
and innate love of plunder among the Sooloos, as well as to their fear
that it would destroy the trade of Sooloo by injuring all that of the
archipelago. But there are strong reasons for believing that this dark
deed owed its origin in part to the influence of the Spaniards and
Dutch, who looked with much distrust upon the growth of the rival
establishment. Such was the jealousy of the Spaniards, that the
governor of the Philippines peremptorily required that Balambangan
should be evacuated. The Sooloos boast of the deed, and admit that they
received assistance from both Samboangan and Ternate, the two nearest
Spanish and Dutch ports. These nations had great reasons to fear, the
establishment of a power like that of the East India Company, in a spot
so favorably situated to secure the trade of the surrounding islands,
possessing fine harbours, and in every way adapted to become a great
commercial depôt. Had it been held by the East India Company but
for a few years, it must have become what Singapore is now.
The original planner of this settlement is said to have been Lord
Pigot; but the merit of carrying it forward was undoubtedly due to
Dalrymple, whose enterprising mind saw the advantage of the situation,
and whose energy was capable of carrying the project successfully
forward.
Since the capture of Balambangan, there has been no event in the
history of Sooloo that has made any of the reigns of the Sultans
memorable, although fifteen have since ascended the throne.
Sooloo has from all the accounts very much [180]changed in its character as well as population
since the arrival of the Spaniards, and the establishment of their
authority in the Philippines. Before that event, some accounts state
that the trade with the Chinese was of great extent, and that from four
to five hundred junks arrived annually from Cambojia, with which Sooloo
principally traded. At that time the population is said to have
equalled in density that of the thickly-settled parts of China.
The government has also undergone a change; for the sultan, who
among other Malay races is usually despotic, is here a mere cipher, and
the government has become an oligarchy. This change has probably been
brought about by the increase of the privileged class of datus, all of
whom are entitled to a seat in the Ruma Bechara until about the year
1810, when the great inconvenience of so large a council was felt, and
it became impossible to control it without great difficulty and trouble
on the part of the sultan. The Ruma Bechara was then reduced until it
contained but six of the principal datus, who assumed the power of
controlling the state. The Ruma Bechara, however, in consequence of the
complaints of many powerful datus, was enlarged; but the more powerful,
and those who have the largest numerical force of slaves, still rule
over its deliberations. The whole power, within the last thirty years,
has been usurped by one or two datus, who now have monopolized the
little foreign trade that comes to these islands. The sultan has the
right to appoint his successor, and generally names him while living.
In default of this, the choice devolves upon the Ruma Bechara, who
elect by a majority.
From a more frequent intercourse with Europeans [181]and
the discovery of new routes through these seas, the opportunities of
committing depredations have become less frequent, and the fear of
detection greater. By this latter motive they are more swayed than by
any thing else, and if the Sooloos have ever been bold and daring
robbers on the high seas, they have very much changed.
Many statements have been made and published relative to the
piracies committed in these seas, which in some cases exceed, and in
others fall short, of the reality. Most of the piratical establishments
are under the rule, or sail under the auspices of the Sultan or Ruma
Bechara of Sooloo, who are more or less intimately connected with them.
The share of the booty that belongs to the Sultan and Ruma Bechara, is
twenty-five per cent. on all captures, whilst the datus receive a high
price for the advance they make of guns and powder, and for the
services of their slaves.
The following are the piratical establishments of Sooloo, obtained
from the most authentic sources, published as well as verbal. The first
among these is the port of Soung, at which we anchored, in the island
of Sooloo; not so much from the number of men available here for this
pursuit, as the facility of disposing of the goods. By the Spaniards
they are denominated Illanun or Lanuns pirates.47 There
[182]are other rendezvous on Pulo Toolyan, at Bohol,
Tonho, Pilas, Tawi Tawi, Sumlout, Pantutaran, Parodasan, Palawan, and
Basillan, and Tantoli on Celebes.48 These are the most noted,
but there are many minor places, where half a dozen prahus are fitted
out. Those of Sooloo, and those who go under the name of the Lanuns,
have prahus of larger size, and better fitted. They are from twenty to
thirty tons burden and are propelled by both sails and oars. They draw
but little water, are fast sailers, and well adapted for navigating
through these dangerous seas. These pirates are supposed to possess in
the whole about two hundred prahus, which usually are manned with from
forty to fifty pirates; the number therefore engaged in this business,
may be estimated at ten thousand. They are armed with muskets,
blunderbusses, krises, hatchets, and spears, and at times the vessels
have one or two large guns mounted. They infest the Straits of
Macassar, the Sea of Celebes, and the Sooloo Sea. Soung is the only
place where they can dispose of their plunder to advantage, and obtain
the necessary outfits. It may be called the principal resort of these
pirates, where well directed measures would result in effectually
suppressing the crime.
Besides the pirates of Sooloo, the commerce of the [183]Eastern islands is vexed with other piratical
establishments. In the neighbouring seas, there are the Malay pirates,
who have of late years become exceedingly troublesome. Their prahus are
of much smaller size than those of Sooloo, being from ten to twelve
tons burden, but in proportion they are much better manned, and thus
are enabled to ply with more efficiency their oars or paddles. These
prahus frequent the shores of the Straits of Malacca, Cape Romania, the
Carimon Isles, and the neighbouring straits, and at times they visit
the Straits of Rhio. Some of the most noted, I was informed, were
fitted out from Johore, in the very neighbourhood of the English
authorities at Singapore; they generally have their haunts on the small
islands on the coast, from which they make short cruises.
They are noted for their arrangements for preventing themselves from
receiving injury, in the desperate defences that are sometimes made
against them. These small prahus have usually swivels mounted, which,
although not of great calibre, are capable of throwing a shot beyond
the range of small-arms. It is said that they seldom attempt an attack
unless the sea is calm, which enables them to approach their victims
with more assurance of success, on account of the facility with which
they are enabled to manage their boats. The frequent calms which occur
in these seas between the land and sea breezes, afford them many
opportunities of putting their villa[i]nous plans in operation; and the
many inlets and islets, with which they are well acquainted, afford
places of refuge and ambush, and for concealing their booty. They are
generally found in small flotillas of from six to twenty prahus, and
when they [184]have succeeded in disabling a vessel at long
shot, the sound of the gong is the signal for boarding, which if
successful, results in a massacre more or less bloody, according to the
obstinacy of the resistance they have met with.
In the winter months, the Straits of Malacca are most infected with
them; and during the summer, the neighbourhood of Singapore, Point
Romania, and the channels in the vicinity. In the spring, from February
to May, they are engaged in procuring their supplies, in fishing, and
refitting their prahus for the coming year.
I have frequently heard plans for the suppression of these pirates,
particularly of those in the neighbourhood of the settlements under
British rule. The European authorities are much to blame for the
quiescent manner in which they have so long borne these depredations,
and many complaints are made that Englishmen, on being transplanted to
India, lose that feeling of horror for deeds of blood, such as are
constantly occurring at their very doors, which they would experience
in England. There are, however, many difficulties to overcome before
operations against the pirates can be effective. The greatest of these
is the desire of the English to secure the goodwill of the chiefs of
the tribes by whom they are surrounded. They thus wink at their
piracies on the vessels of other nations, or take no steps to alleviate
the evils of slavery. Indeed the language that one hears from many
intelligent men who have long resided in that part of the world is,
that in no country where civilization exists does slavery exhibit so
debasing a form as in her Indian possessions. Another difficulty
consists in the want of minute [185]knowledge of the coasts,
inlets, and hiding-places of the pirates, and this must continue to
exist until proper surveys are made. This done, it would be necessary
to employ vessels that could pursue the pirates every where, for which
steamers naturally suggest themselves.49
What will appear most extraordinary is, that the very princes who
are enjoying the stipend for the purchase of the site whereon the
English authority is established, are believed to be the most active in
equipping the prahus for these piratical expeditions; yet no notice is
taken of them, although it would be so easy to control them by
withholding payment until they had cleared themselves from suspicion,
or by establishing residents in their chief towns.
Another, and a very different race of natives who frequent the
Sooloo Archipelago, must not be passed by without notice. These are the
Bajow50 divers or fishermen, to whom Sooloo is indebted
for procuring the submarine treasures with which her seas are stored.
They are also very frequently employed in the biche de mar or tripang
fisheries among the islands to the south. The Bajows generally look
upon Macassar as their principal place of resort. They were at one time
believed to be derived from Johore, on the Malayan peninsula; at
another to be Buguese; but they speak the Sooloo dialect, and are
certainly derived from some of the neighbouring [186]islands. The name of Bajows, in their tongue,
means fishermen. From all accounts, they are allowed to pursue their
avocations in peace, and are not unfrequently employed by the piratical
datus, and made to labour for them. They resort to their
fishing-grounds in fleets of between one and two hundred sail, having
their wives and children with them, and in consequence of the tyranny
of the Sooloos, endeavour to place themselves under the protection of
the flag of Holland, by which nation this useful class of people is
encouraged. The Sooloo seas are comparatively little frequented by
them, as they are unable to dispose of the produce of their fisheries
for want of a market, and fear the exactions of the datus. Their prahus
are about five tons each. The Bajows at some islands are stationary,
but are for the most part constantly changing their ground. The Spanish
authorities in the Philippines encourage them, it is said, to frequent
their islands, as without them they would derive little benefit from
the banks in the neighbouring seas, where quantities of pearl-oysters
are known to exist, which produce pearls of the finest kind. The Bajows
are inoffensive and very industrious, and in faith Mahomedans.
The climate of Sooloo during our short stay, though warm, was
agreeable. The time of our visit was in the dry season, which lasts
from October to April, and alternates with the wet one from May till
September. June and July are the windy months, when strong breezes blow
from the westward. In the latter part of August and September, strong
gales are felt from the south, while in December and January the winds
are found to come from the northward; but light winds usually prevail
from the southwest during the wet season, and from the opposite
[187]quarter, the dry, following closely the order of
the monsoons in the China seas. As to the temperature, the climate is
very equable, the thermometer seldom rising above 90° or falling
below 70°.
Diseases are few, and those that prevail arise from the manner in
which the natives live. They are from that cause an unhealthy-looking
race. The smallpox has at various times raged with great violence
throughout the group, and they speak of it with great dread. Few of the
natives appear to be marked with it, which may have been owing,
perhaps, to their escaping this disorder for some years. Vaccination
has not yet been introduced among them, nor have they practised
inoculation.
Notwithstanding Soung was once the Mecca of the East, its people
have but little zeal for the Mahomedan faith. It was thought at one
time that they had almost forgotten its tenets, in consequence of the
neglect of all their religious observances. The precepts which they
seem to regard most are that of abstaining from swine’s flesh,
and that of being circumcised. Although polygamy is not interdicted,
few even of the datus have more than one wife.
Soung Road offers good anchorage; and supplies of all kinds may be
had in abundance. Beef is cheap, and vegetables and fruit at all
seasons plenty.
Our observations placed the town in latitude 6° 10′ N.,
longitude 120° 55′ 51″ E.
On the 6th, having concluded the treaty (a copy of which will be
found in Appendix XIII)51 and the [188]other business that had taken me to Sooloo, we
took our departure for the Straits of Balabac, the western entrance
into this sea, with a fine breeze to the eastward. By noon we had
reached the group of Pangootaaraang,52 consisting
of five small islands. All of these are low, covered with trees, and
without lagoons. They presented a great contrast to Sooloo, which was
seen behind us in the distance. The absence of the swell of the ocean
in sailing through this sea is striking, and gives the idea of
navigating an extensive bay, on whose luxuriant islands no surf breaks.
There are, however, sources of danger that incite the navigator to
watchfulness and constant anxiety; the hidden shoals and reefs, and the
sweep [189]of the tide, which leave him no control over his
vessel.
Through the night, which was exceedingly dark, we sounded every
twenty minutes, but found no bottom; and at daylight on the 7th, we
made the islands of Cagayan Sooloo,53 in latitude 7°
03′ 30″ N., longitude 118° 37′ E. The tide or
current was passing the islands to the west-southwest, three-quarters
of a mile per hour; we had soundings of seventy-five fathoms. Cagayan
Sooloo has a pleasant appearance from the sea, and may be termed a high
island. It is less covered with undergrowth and mangrove-bushes than
the neighbouring islands, and the reefs are comparatively small. It has
fallen off in importance, and by comparing former accounts with those I
received, and from its present aspect, it would seem that it has
decreased both in population and products. Its caves formerly supplied
a large quantity of edible birds’-nests; large numbers of cattle
were to be found upon it; and its cultivation was carried on to some
extent. These articles of commerce are not so much attended to at the
present time, and the biche de mar and tortoise-shell, formerly brought
hither, are now carried to other places. There is a small anchorage on
the west side, but we did not visit it. There are no dangers near these
small islands that may not be guarded against. Our survey extended only
to their size and situation, as I deemed it my duty to devote all the
remainder of the time I had to spare to the Straits of Balabac.
[Proceeding, our author relates the stay of the vessel in, and
describes, the Mangsee Islands, Balabac, [190]and Balambangan,
about which various scientific observations were carried on.
“Lieutenant Perry, ... near a small beach on the island of
Balambangan, encountered some Sooloos, who were disposed to attack him.
The natives, no doubt, were under the impression that the boats were
from some shipwrecked vessel. They were all well-armed, and apparently
prepared to take advantage of the party if possible; but, by the
prudence and forbearance of this officer, collision was avoided, and
his party saved from an attack.” The British colony established
on this island in 1773, dwindled steadily until 1775 when the pirates
rushed the garrison and massacred almost every man. The work of Rajah
Brooke in Sarawak is mentioned, and the Dyaks described. Continuing Mr.
Wilkes says:]
As the principal objects of my visit were to ascertain the
disposition and resources of the Sooloos for trade, and to examine the
straits leading into the Sooloo seas, in order to facilitate the
communication with China, by avoiding on the one hand the eastern
route, and on the other the dangers of the Palawan Passage, it may be
as well to give the result of the latter inquiry, referring those who
may be more particularly interested to the Hydrographical Atlas and
Memoir.
The difficulties in the Palawan Passage arising from heavy seas and
fresh gales do not exist in the Sooloo Sea, nor are the shoals so
numerous or so dangerous. In the place of storms and rough water,
smooth seas are found, and for most of the time moderate breezes, which
do not subject a vessel to the wear and tear experienced in beating up
against a monsoon. [191]
The Straits of Balabac may be easily reached, either from Singapore,
or by beating up along the western shore to Borneo. When the straits
are reached, a vessel by choosing her time, may easily pass through
them by daylight, even by beating when the wind is ahead. Once through,
the way is clear, with the exception of a few coral lumps; the
occasional occurrence of the north wind will enable a vessel to pass
directly to the shores of the island of Panay. A fair wind will
ordinarily prevail along that island, and, as I have already mentioned,
it may be approached closely. The passage through to the eastward of
Mindoro Island may be taken in preference to that on the west side
through the Mindoro Strait, and thus all the reefs and shoals will be
avoided. Thence, the western coast of Luzon will be followed to the
north, as in the old route.
I do not think it necessary to point out any particular route
through the Sooloo Sea, as vessels must be guided chiefly as the winds
blow, but I would generally avoid approaching the Sooloo Islands, as
the currents are more rapid, and set rather to the southward. Wherever
there is anchorage, it would be advisable to anchor at night, as much
time might thus be saved, and a knowledge of the currents, or sets of
the tides obtained. Perhaps it would be as well to caution those who
are venturesome, that it is necessary to keep a good look-out, and
those who are timid, that there does not appear to be much danger from
the piratical prahus, unless a vessel gets on shore: in that case it
will not be long before they will be seen collecting in the horizon in
large numbers.
The treaty that I made with the Sultan, if strictly [192]enforced on the first infraction, will soon put
an end to all the dangers to be apprehended from them. To conclude, I
am satisfied that under ordinary circumstances, to pass through the
Sooloo Sea will shorten by several days the passage to Manilla or
Canton, and be a great saving of expense in the wear and tear of a ship
and her canvass.
[On the eighteenth of February, the ship reaches the Straits of
Singapore, where they find the other three vessels of the fleet,
namely, the “Porpoise,” the “Oregon,” and
“Flying-Fish.”] [193]
