The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Guide to the Virginia Springs, by John Jennings Mormon

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851,
BY ROBERT COWAN,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the
Western District of Virginia.

So frequent has been the demand for some Guide to the Virginia Springs, of portable dimensions, and nothing of the kind having as yet appeared, we have been induced to compile the following little work, hoping to meet, in some measure, the wants of visiters to these Watering-Places. In giving the various routes, we have endeavoured to describe the Springs, and also the Natural Curiosities, as we proceed.

Other matter than that for which we are indebted to the proprietors of the Springs, has been gathered from various publications.

A number of books and pamphlets have been written about the Mineral Waters of Virginia, but in no single one, we believe, has an account been given of so many watering-places as in this.

There are many other Springs in the State whose waters, no doubt, contain valuable medicinal qualities, perhaps even exceeding several of which an account has been given in this work; but as we have not been able to get information with regard to them,—not knowing, in fact, even their localities,—we must, of course, much as we regret it, omit them.

There are, doubtless, also, many other great natural curiosities beside those of which we have given a description; but as we lay no claim to authorship,—merely being a compiler,—and having no information concerning them, we will have to leave them as we have done the Springs referred to in our last paragraph.

From Washington City to the Virginia Springs there are two main leading routes. One is down the Potomac River (passing in sight of Mount Vernon) to Acquia Creek, forty-five miles; thence by railroad to Fredericksburg, fourteen miles; to the Junction, thirty-seven miles; to Louisa Court-House, thirty-seven miles; to Gordonsville, thirteen miles; and to Charlottesville, twenty-one miles. One mile west of this place is the University of Virginia, one of the most flourishing institutions in the Union. The buildings are fine, and in full view from the road.

Three miles southeast of Charlottesville is Monticello, the seat of Thomas Jefferson. The railroad not having, as yet, been completed beyond Charlottesville, we proceed thence by stage via Cox, Brookesville, Rockfish Gap, Waynesboro, and Fishersville to Staunton, thirty-eight miles. In this place are the Western Insane Asylum, and the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, two noble state institutions. Staunton is much resorted to during the summer by persons from the tide-water region of the state.

Stopping here, we have an opportunity of visiting Weyer's Cave and the Chimneys, two natural curiosities of this county (Augusta). Weyer's Cave, the most celebrated of these curiosities, is 17 miles northeast of Staunton. "This is the most remarkable cavern at present known, surpassing the Grotto of Antiparos, Fingal's Cave in Staffa, and the far-famed Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, which are remarkable only for dimensions.

"Weyer's Cave, for its extent and variety, the singularity of its stalactitic concretions, the disposition of its festooning, the fantastic displays of its drapery, and the sublimity and grandeur of its scenery, is not surpassed by anything in nature.

"The Guide's House is situated about eight hundred yards from the entrance to the Cave. In going from the house to the cave, you pass near Madison's Cave, which is in the same ridge, and only three hundred yards from it. Madison's Cave was known and visited as a curiosity long before the discovery of Weyer's Cave, but is now passed by and neglected, as being unworthy of notice, compared with its more imposing rival, although it has had the pen of a Jefferson to describe its beauties.

"Weyer's Cave is about 2500 feet in length, yet its exploration does not in a direct line exceed 1800 feet. It is divided into several apartments of various sizes, some of which have received the names of 'Washington's Hall,' 'Congress Hall,' 'Jefferson's Hall,' 'The Senate Chamber,' 'Solomon's Temple,' &c. A distinguished Bostonian, in writing of this Cave, says,—'I have twice visited the Caverns of Matlock and Castleton, in Derbyshire, England, and have twice walked in the subterranean streets of Herculaneum, in the Catacombs of Rome, the tombs of the Scipios, and seen the subterranean wonders of the old world; but must confess Weyer's Cave in Virginia exceeds them all, in the beauty of its natural ornaments, and in its general effect. It is as dry, as well graded, and as easy of access, as European caverns. Washington's Hall, with its splendid hangings, its well-wrought fretwork, and the wonderful freak of Nature in placing a statue in the centre, is alone worth a pilgrimage to behold.'

"The temperature of the Cave is 54½° of Fahrenheit, and never changes. It is therefore apparently warm in winter, and cool in summer.

"Ladies should be provided with a light shawl, and thick shoes, in visiting this Cave."

The other curiosity mentioned—the Cyclopean Towers, for many years known by the name of "The Chimneys," is about 16 or 18 miles north of Staunton. These summits or towers, of which there are seven, appear like so many antique chimneys in the midst of a grove. They rise almost perpendicularly from the bed of a stream, to the height of about 60 or 70 feet, with projections like Gothic cornices.

There are several Mineral Springs in this county, none of which are much visited by persons from a distance. The most noted of these are the Augusta Springs, (formerly called Stribling's Springs,) about 13 miles northeast from Staunton. "The water is strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen, and is said to equal the celebrated Harrowgate, in England."

Crawford's Springs, 17 miles west of Staunton, on what is called the Free Turnpike, are also visited by persons from the neighbourhood, and said to contain valuable medicinal qualities.

Union Spring is on the west side of the Blue Ridge, 20 miles east of Staunton; and the Lebanon White Sulphur about 20 miles northwest of Staunton, on the road leading from Harrisonburg to the Warm Springs.

From Staunton to the Springs in western Virginia the route is, via Buffalo Gap 10 miles, Deerfield 12 miles, Cloverdale 8 miles, thence to Bath Alum Springs, 15 miles.

"This new and elegant establishment is situated at the eastern base of the Warm Spring Mountain, on the route through Virginia by way of the Valley of the great Kanawha to Point Pleasant and Guyandotte on the Ohio River. It is very pleasantly located both in point of climate and scenery; the atmosphere is pure, bracing, and exhilarating; the mountain scenery diversified and picturesque. To the west and northwest is the Big Piney Mountain; on the southwest is Little Piney Mountain. These ranges lie parallel with the Warm Spring Mountain, and nature seems to have separated them for a road to the Far West. Through the 'gap' in these mountains the visiter enjoys a fine view of the celebrated 'Flag Rock,' the gap in the Warm Spring Mountain, and of the turnpike road (for about three-fourths of a mile) as it winds its way along the sides and finally reaches the summit of the mountain.

"Eastward stretches McClung's Mountain, through which Thompson's Creek, sparkling and rapid, forces its way, giving view to Mill Mountain in the distance, whilst in the foreground rises Mayo's Hill, with its rich and beautiful laurel groves.

"The buildings are situated on ground slightly undulating, of which 10 acres are enclosed and ornamented with shade trees, shrubbery, &c.; and in the rear is an extensive forest reaching to the base of the mountain. The houses are disposed in the form of a crescent, of which the centre and principal is the Hotel. This is three stories high besides the basement, 90 feet front by 50 deep, and contains a suite of parlours, very handsomely furnished reception-room, reading-room, the ball-room, and a number of double and single chambers.

"The front is ornamented with a very elegant and airy double portico of 'fretwork,' furnishing an agreeable promenade to ladies and gentlemen above, and to the gentlemen below or on the first floor.

"This central edifice is flanked east and west by two buildings, one at either end, corresponding with it in general appearance—but smaller in size, being but two stories high exclusive of basement, and 63 feet front by 40 deep. Each of these also has a portico of 'fretwork,' proportioned to its size as compared with the main Hotel. These buildings again are flanked at either extremity by four blocks of cabins or cottages, one story high, having small lattice porches in front, and harmonizing in general appearance with their larger and more imposing neighbours. But that which is of the most importance to the comfort of the sojourner is, that these chambers, besides being new, airy, and well ventilated, are furnished with the best of hair mattrasses. In this respect Bath Alum is probably not surpassed anywhere in the mineral regions of Virginia. Running back from the centre of the Hotel, in the rear of it, is the spacious dining-room 25 feet wide by 115 feet long, adapted for a double row of tables if necessary. The tea and store-rooms, kitchen and baker's rooms are east of the dining-room, and connected with it at the centre.

"These buildings are all of brick, of superior workmanship, and handsomely furnished. Besides these, are provided in the background comfortable rooms for servants; and across the creek ample stabling and carriage room. Attached to the establishment are the plunge-baths, one 16 feet square, the other 12 feet square.

"Although these improvements are all new, and have been put up since this property, two years ago, passed into the hands of its present energetic and liberal proprietor (Mr. John W. Frazier), yet the Alum Springs themselves have long been known for their highly medicinal qualities, and resorted to by people of this region of country, and even from distant parts, in spite of the want of all accommodations for visiters in the immediate vicinity.

"The Springs are formed by water percolating through a high slate bank or bluff, and which thus becoming impregnated with its mineral properties, is collected into basins or springs at the base of the rock. These are six in number: three Alum Springs of different degrees of strength, one Magnesia Spring, one Chalybeate, and one Sulphur; sulphate of iron and alum, suiting themselves to most of the chronic diseases to which the human system is subject. For all derangements of the stomach, liver, and kidneys, chronic diarrhœa, chronic thrush, and for delicate females, these waters enjoy a wide and rapidly-growing reputation; while for diseases of the skin, or cutaneous affections of whatever sort, they are invaluable, and perhaps not surpassed by any mineral waters known.

"To beginners the Alum Water is unpalatable and even repulsive; but as with the Sulphur, Saratoga and other mineral waters, so here, a longer acquaintance makes better friends, insomuch that 'old stagers' long for it as the toper for his bottle, and meeting with it in the cities would not give it in exchange for the finest soda-water, or the best iced lemonade."

Five miles west of Bath Alum are the Warm Springs. This watering-place is delightfully situated in a fertile valley, immediately at the western base of the Warm Spring Mountain. The view from the top of the Mountain is very beautiful and extensive. The accommodations at these Springs are very good, and sufficient for about 100 persons.

The following analysis of the water is by Professor Rogers: "The bath is an octagon, 38 feet in diameter, and 16 feet 9 inches wide—its area is 1163.77 feet. The ordinary depth of water being 5 feet, the cubic capacity is 5818.86 feet, or 43533.32 gallons. Notwithstanding the leaks, this quantity of water will flow into the reservoir in one hour. The average temperature of the bath is 98° Fahrenheit. The gas which rises in the bath consists of nitrogen, with minute quantities of sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid.

"Besides this gas, each gallon of water contains 45 cubic inches of gas, consisting of nitrogen, 3.25 cubic inches: sulphuretted hydrogen, 0.25 cubic inches; carbonic acid 1.00 cubic inch. The saline contents of one gallon of the water are as follows: muriate of lime, 3.968; sulphate of magnesia, 9.984; carbonate of lime, 4.288; sulphate of lime, 5.466; a trace of soda, no doubt in the state of muriate.

"While the Warm Springs afford the most luxurious bath in the world, they contain neutral salts and various gases, which act as a gentle aperient, diuretic, and sudorific, and give tone and vigour to the human system. It is well ascertained in other countries, that waters of a high temperature tend more to strengthen the digestive organs than those of a low temperature; but it is found, by actual experiment, that the water at the Warm Springs retains a considerable portion of its useful qualities when bottled in the Spring, and then cooled by immersing the bottles in cold water, or even ice; and this plan is adopted by many of those who have a repugnance to the use of warm water."

The next watering-place is the justly celebrated Hot Springs, five miles southwest of the former, and situated in the same beautiful valley.

"There are six baths at this place, called Hot Spouts, each supplied with water from a separate spring; their highest temperature is about 106°. These waters contain sulphate of lime, carbonate of lime, sulphate of soda, magnesia, a minute portion of muriate of iron, carbonic acid gas, a trace of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, and nitrogen gas. Taken internally, they are anti-acid, mildly aperient, and freely diuretic and diaphoretic. But when used as a general bath, their effects are great. They equalize an unbalanced circulation, and thereby restore the different important parts of the system when torpid; they relax contracted tendons, excite the action of the absorbent system, promote glandular secretion, exert a marked and salutary influence over the whole biliary system, and often relieve in a short time, excruciating pain caused by palpable and long-standing disease of some vital organ.

"The beneficial effects of hot spouts, topically applied, are so miraculous, in many painful and obstinate complaints, that words cannot adequately describe them.

"The effect of this bath on rheumatic and gouty affections, and on old, deep-seated, and chronic complaints, that medicine does not seem to reach, is very beneficial. It restores the surface to a good condition, and promotes the healthy action of the skin; and every person who drinks the water of the various sulphur springs, should afterwards stop here two or three weeks, and try the virtue of the boiler. There are, near the hotel, a hot and a cold spring issuing so near each other, that you can dip the thumb and fore-finger of the same hand into hot and cold water at the same time.

"These Springs are owned by Dr. Goode, who resides on the premises, and directs in the management. There are comfortable bathing houses for the accommodation both of male and female patients, in each of which suitable arrangements are made for taking the sweet or plunge bath; or for receiving douche when required."

The Hotel is well kept, which with a number of comfortable cabins affords accommodations for about 175 persons.

From the Hot Springs we proceed to Calahan's, 20 miles, from thence to the White Sulphur, in Greenbrier County, 15 miles. This is the most celebrated watering-place in Virginia. "It is situated on the western declivity of the Alleghany Mountain, some 6 or 8 miles from the summit, and 35 miles southwest of the Hot Springs, in an extensive and beautiful valley. Nature has made this one of the most enchanting spots in the mountains of Virginia. The lawn and walks cover perhaps 50 acres. A short distance from the Spring are the hotel, the dining-hall, and the ball-room: the rest of the ground is principally occupied with cabins and cottages. These are in rows, one story high, built of wood, brick, and hewed logs. These beautiful rows of buildings are designated South Carolina Row, Virginia Row, Alabama Row, Louisiana Row, Paradise Row, Baltimore Row, &c.

"The principal spring yields about 18 gallons per minute; and it is a remarkable fact that this quantity is not perceptibly increased or diminished during the longest spells of wet or dry weather; while other bold springs of the country have failed during the long droughts of the summer, this has invariably observed the even tenor of its way. There is no discoloration of the water during long wet spells, or other evidences that it becomes blended with common water percolating through the earth. The quantity and temperature of this spring being uniform under all circumstances, gives a confidence, which experience in its use has verified, of its uniform strength and efficiency.

"The present proprietor of this property came into possession of it in the year 1808, but did not personally undertake its improvement until the summer of 1818. Before this period, the buildings for the accommodation of visiters, although sufficient for the number of persons that then resorted to the place, were exceedingly rude, being altogether small wooden huts. The interest and enterprise of the proprietor, soon led him into a different and more appropriate system of improvement, and from small beginnings he has gone on, progressing in the rapid ratio of demand, until, from the 'tent' accommodations in 1779, and the 'log-cabin' in 1784, the place now, both in elegance and extent, exhibits the appearance of a neat and flourishing village, affording comfortable and convenient accommodations, (including the surrounding hotels,) for from twelve to fifteen hundred persons." For a full account of the White Sulphur Springs, we refer the reader to a work written by Dr. Moorman, from which we have taken the liberty of extracting one or two paragraphs. The White Sulphur Water has been analyzed by Professor Rogers, and the result of his examination is as follows:—

"Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches of White Sulphur Water, weighed, after being dried at 212°; 65.54 grains.

Quantity of each solid ingredient in 100 cubic inches, estimated as perfectly free from water.

"The White Sulphur Water is peculiarly adapted to chronic affections of the organic system.

"It is highly beneficial in diseases of the stomach, liver, spleen, kidneys, bladder,—some derangements of the nervous system,—female disorders,—and scrofula, neuralgia, and rheumatism."

Nine miles west of the White Sulphur Springs is Lewisburg, the next place on our route. This is the county seat of Greenbrier, a flourishing town, and the most important in this region of country. The Court of Appeals holds its summer session in this place.

Thirteen miles west of Lewisburg and in the same county are the Blue Sulphur Springs; this is also a popular watering-place. There are considerable improvements here, and the situation is one of great natural beauty. The water tastes somewhat like that of the White Sulphur. The analysis of this water, by Professor Rogers, is as follows:—

"The Spring is a bold one, furnishing fifteen gallons of water to the minute. There is a great deal of red; white, black, and other deposit from the water. In female diseases this water is superior to many others."

In the county of Monroe, in one of the most beautiful valleys by nature in Western Virginia, seventeen miles southeast of the White Sulphur, are the Sweet Springs. The improvements here are extensive and comfortable, but not so handsome as some of the other watering-places.

Dr. Bell, in his work on Baths and Mineral Waters, describes the medicinal properties of these waters as follows:

"The water of the spring rises into a large cylindrical reservoir, from opposite sides of which it flows out by small pipes; one conveying water to the bath for the men, the other to that for the ladies. The men's bath is of a quadrangular form, surrounded by a wall, and open at the top. It is of tolerable extent and clear—the bottom being of gravel, and the water constantly flowing in, and as constantly passing out, after it reaches a certain height.

"The temperature of the Sweet Spring is 73° Fahrenheit, the same as that which, in England, by a strange blunder, is called Bristol Hot Well. There is considerable resemblance between the two in other respects, as well in the evolution of carbonic acid, as in the earthy and saline matters held in solution. In the Virginia Spring, however, iron has been detected, whereas the Bristol Hot Well has none in its composition.

"The saline substances are; sulphate of magnesia, muriate of soda, and muriate of lime, with a little sulphate of lime. The earthy matters consist of sulphate of lime, a small portion of carbonate of magnesia and lime, with a small portion of silicious earth.

"This water is serviceable in dyspepsia, dysentery, diarrhœa, cough, and all calculous and nephritic complaints."

The following is from a writer who describes a morning's ride from the White Sulphur to the Sweet Springs: "We left the White Sulphur long before the inhabitants of Paradise Row were stirring, and in a little while our dapples were winding their way through some of the finest scenery romance or poetry had ever pictured. Over a smooth beaten road, which seemed to have been carved through the mountains, like the pass of Mount Athos, we went on, with woodland steeps on each side of us, and afar for many miles in front, we had a refreshing perspective in the high green hills. Occasionally, in coming to a turn in the road, some new wonder would open before us. At one time we were bordered on each hand by a rocky palisade of some hundred feet in height. And again, where the road was more narrow, we passed under natural arbours, formed by the meeting of the tops of the bending trees from each side of the way, and where the laurel was twining its own laurels on the branches.

"A ride of ten miles brought us to Crow's, with a relish for breakfast, or anything else that might be offered us.

"This is the place where so many excursions are made from the Springs, for dinner parties and picnics. The tavern stands on the corner of the road at the foot of a mountain, and the sign-board swings out in front, after the manner of Nicholas Vedder of old, and many a Rip Van Winkle can be found in the whereabouts, who knows the legends of the neighbourhood." Leaving Crow's, he continues:—"We left the picturesque behind us, and for the next six miles of our journey, we passed through a more cultivated country, with many large fields of waving wheat tops and corn blade. Within a mile or two of the Sweet, we came to what is called the Red Spring, an old dilapidated building, gray with age, and all its windows shattered.

"Before 12 o'clock we entered the smiling valley of the Sweet Springs. Whoever comes to the mountains, should make a visit to the Sweet Springs, if but for one day. Much of the scenery in the neighbourhood is of the most beautiful and refreshing kind, and the whole place is redolent of life and animation, particularly at a time when thronging with company."

One mile nearer the White Sulphur are the Red Springs, or Sweet Chalybeate. This place has of late years been acquiring considerable notoriety.

About 200 persons can be comfortably accommodated here. "The waters are said to be good in neuralgia, and in rheumatic complaints. There are two springs here, the one near the hotel, essentially the same with the Sweet Springs, the other containing a larger quantity of iron, which being deposited about the spring in the form of red precipitate, has given the name of Red Spring. Professor Rogers' analysis of this water gives:—

"1st. Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches, weighed, after being greatly dried at 112°, 40.76.

"2d. Quantity of each solid ingredient estimated as perfectly free from water:—

"3d. Volume of each of the gases contained in a free state, in 100 cubic inches of water:—

"4th. Composition of 100 inches of the mixed gases rising in bubbles in the Spring:—

In the County of Monroe, twenty-six miles southwest from the White Sulphur, are the Salt Sulphur Springs; they are two miles from Union, the county seat. From a pamphlet written by Dr. Mütter of Philadelphia, we copy the following account of these Springs:

"The Salt Sulphur Springs, three in number, are situated in the county of Monroe, in 37½° north latitude, 5° longitude west of Philadelphia, and at an elevation of about 1400 feet above tide water. All the springs are situated on 'Indian Creek,' a small limestone stream, which rises in a valley a few hundred yards above the Old or Sweet Spring, and after pursuing its 'devious way' for about 23 miles in a southwest direction, finally empties into New River, in Monroe County. It derives its name from the circumstance of the Indians, who, in former times were in the habit of entering the valley of Virginia from Kentucky and Ohio, almost invariably making it their 'Camping Stream.' Their graves, along with other traces of their frequent resort to this particular spot, are occasionally met with at the present day.

"The Salt Sulphur is hemmed in on every side by mountains. To the south and east, in full view, and about 10 miles distant, is Peters Mountain; due north, and about 14 miles distant, is a low spur of the Alleghany; and west, it is bounded by Swope's Mountain, at or near the base of which, are the two principal springs.

"It appears from the statement of some of the 'oldest inhabitants,' that the Old or Sweet Spring was discovered in 1802 or 1803 by Alexander Hutchinson, Esq., who was engaged in boring for salt along Indian Creek. For several years it enjoyed much celebrity, and was annually the resort of a large company.

"The house occupied as the hotel, and several of the old cabins, are still standing. The opening of the Salt Sulphur Spring, the medical properties of which are so much more strongly marked, and the erection of commodious buildings near it, soon destroyed the fame of the Sweet, the water of which at the present time is used almost exclusively for the baths, although there are some individuals who still prefer it to that of either the Salt or New Spring. To gratify such, and at the same time to test the value of the water, the enterprising proprietors, in the summer of 1839, caused the spring to be deepened and thoroughly repaired. At present it is enclosed in a white marble reservoir, two feet square by two feet four inches in depth, over which is erected a neat wooden edifice, of an order 'sui generis.' In taste, smell, colour, and constituents, it closely resembles the Salt Spring, but is much more feeble as a remedial agent, which is to be attributed to its containing a smaller quantity of the active principles common to both.

"The second spring, or the Salt Sulphur proper, was discovered in 1805, by Erwin Benson, Esq. He was induced to believe that either sulphur or salt might be found in considerable quantities at the spot now occupied by the spring, from the fact of its being the favourite 'lick,' of immense herds of buffalo and deer. Under this impression he began boring, and penetrated but a short distance below the surface, when he struck the vein of sulphur water, now constituting the spring. Like the old, this spring is enclosed in a marble reservoir, two feet square, and about two feet ten inches deep, but from the boldness of its sources, it is probable, that this spring will be enlarged. It is protected from the influence of the weather; by a neat and appropriate edifice, furnished with seats. The water possesses all the sensible properties of the sulphur waters in general; its odour, for instance, is very like that of a 'tolerable egg,' and may, in certain states of the atmosphere, be perceived at some distance from the spring, and in taste it is cousin-german to a strong solution of Epsom salts and magnesia. In a short time, however, strange to say, these disagreeable properties are either not observed, or become on the other hand, attractive; indeed, there is hardly an instance of an individual's retaining his original repugnance to them longer than three or four days, and some there are, who become so excessively fond of the water, as to give it the preference over any other liquid. Like most of the sulphurous, this water is perfectly transparent, and deposits a whitish sediment composed of its various saline ingredients mingled with sulphur. It is also for the most part placid; occasionally, however, it is disturbed by a bubble of gas which steals slowly to the surface, where it either explodes with a timid and dimpling smack, or is eagerly caught up by some careworn and almost world-weary invalid, as a gem from the treasury of Hygeia!"

"Temperature variable from 49° to 56°. Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches, weighed after being dried at 212°, 81.41 grains.

Quantity of each solid ingredient in 100 cubic inches, estimated as perfectly free from water.

"I enclose you a list of the ingredients in the Salt Sulphur water, which applies to the New as well as the Old Spring; the former having rather a smaller amount of saline matter in general, though in some ingredients surpassing the other. It has been very minutely analyzed, and is the first of all the waters in which I was able to detect traces of iodine, which it contains in a larger amount than the Old Spring, and, indeed, most of the other waters in which I have been so fortunate as to discover this mineral.

The Red Sulphur Springs are situated in the County of Monroe, 43 miles southwest of the White Sulphur, and 17 miles west of the Salt Sulphur.

The improvements at this place are very handsome, and afford accommodation for three hundred and fifty persons. The following is from a pamphlet, written by Dr. Hunt of Washington City:

"The Red Sulphur Spring is situated in latitude 37° 37', about 20 miles southwest of Union, which is the seat of justice for the county. The approach to the village is beautifully romantic and picturesque. Wending his way around a high mountain, the weary traveller is for a moment charmed out of his fatigue by the sudden view of his resting-place, some hundreds of feet immediately beneath him. Continuing the circuitous descent, he at length reaches a ravine, which conducts him, after a few rugged steps, to the entrance of a verdant glen, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains. The south end of this enchanting vale, which is the widest portion of it, is about 200 feet in width. Its course is nearly north for about 150 yards, when it begins gradually to contract, and changes its direction to the northwest and west, until it terminates in a narrow point. This beautiful secluded Tempe is the chosen site of the village. The northwest portion is occupied by stables, carriage-houses, and shops of various sorts; the southern portion, just at the base of the east and west mountains, is that upon which stand the various edifices for the accommodation of visiters.

"These buildings are spacious and conveniently arranged, the servants are prompt and obedient, and the 'table d'hote' is abundantly supplied with every variety of viands that can tempt the appetite. The promenades, which are neatly enclosed by a white railing, are beautifully embellished, and shaded from the midday sun by indigenies of the forest,—the large, umbrageous sugar maple. The spring is situated at the southwest point of the valley, and the water is collected into two white marble fountains, over which is thrown a substantial cover.

"At the distance of a few hundred yards from the Red Sulphur Spring, up the south ravine, there is another spring, supposed to be a chalybeate, of a singular character.

"In a conversation with Mr. Harvey, a plain, honest, and sensible man, who was the former proprietor of the Red Sulphur Spring, I gathered the following facts, which I give in his own words. He stated, 'That he had lived at and about the place for upwards of forty-three years. The spring was first visited by the neighbours for itch, sore legs, and other inveterate diseases of the skin, which were always cured by drinking the water, and rubbing the parts affected with the muddy deposit. About thirty-six years ago, Dr. John Cabell, of Lynchburg, Va., was the first person who visited the spring for a cough and disease of the throat, attended with chills and fevers. He remained here several weeks, and returned home much better. The next season several other persons came, with cough and every appearance of consumption. Afterwards, the number of visiters afflicted with this disease increased every year. There are many persons now living, within my knowledge (said Mr. Harvey), and enjoying excellent health, who visited this spring many years ago, to all appearance in the last stage of consumption. The visiters who were most benefited by the water remained here five or six weeks, confined themselves to a diet of rye mush and milk, and were industrious in rising early, drinking the water, and taking exercise. Others, who indulged themselves in eating, sleeping late in the morning, and lounging about during the day, derived but little advantage from the use of the water; and generally returned home dissatisfied. The cold plunging or shock bath, was used in those days with decided advantage. I never knew a case injured by the use of the cold bath. Many cases of dropsy visited the spring, and I never knew an instance where they were not relieved by the use of the water. One of my neighbours was cured many years ago by the use of this water, and now enjoys excellent health. I have known many persons affected with complaints of the liver and bowels, completely relieved by the Red Sulphur water. From the first of May to the middle of November is the proper time for using the water to advantage, but I think it strongest, in its various virtues, during the months of September and October.'

"The following was presented to me by Dr. Saunders, the resident physician, as an analysis of the Red Sulphur water, made at the spring by Professor Rogers, the geologist of Virginia; but it certainly does not satisfactorily account for the wonderful effects of the water.

"Solid contents of 32 cubic inches of water, grains 1.25, consisting of sulphate of soda, lime and magnesia, carbonate of lime, and muriate of soda. Besides these ingredients the water contains, in considerable quantity, a peculiar organic substance which, mingled with sulphur, is deposited on the sides of the spring, and seems to increase by a species of organic growth.

"The Red Sulphur water is decidedly sedative in its effects. It subdues chronic inflammation, tranquillizes irritation, and reduces the frequency of the pulse in the most astonishing manner.

"It is not uncommon for persons to arrive at the spring, who have not been able to sleep during the night, even with the aid of opium, and who, after drinking the water for a few days, find their nervous irritation so soothed and allayed, that no other anodyne is required to procure them full repose for the night.

"This water has been considered peculiarly adapted to the cure of pulmonary diseases, and it is true that it has a most beneficial influence in most cases of this disease; but its good effects equally extend to all cases of subacute inflammation, whether seated in the stomach, liver, spleen, intestines, kidneys, or bladder, and most particularly in the mucous membrane. In fact, nature never yet gave to man a remedy capable of more extensive application, nor better calculated to relieve a larger class of diseases.

"The late venerable Dr. R. H. Bradford, of Virginia, who practised medicine for many years at the Red Sulphur, in a communication on the subject of the water, remarks—'The effect of this water in reducing the frequency of the pulse, is one of the numerous, singular, and powerful properties belonging to it. It lessens arterial action to such a degree, that it seldom fails to remove fever, difficulty of breathing, and pain in the chest. When the patient is restricted to a proper regimen, this water may be taken with greater advantage in all pulmonary cases, than any other remedy I have ever employed for that purpose. It is also an important remedy in enlarged liver and spleen, and in diseases of the mucous membrane generally.'

"The water of the Red Sulphur seems to act by soothing irritation, lessening the frequency of the pulse, and by subduing the inflammation of the tissues in contact with the tubercles, and thereby rendering the tubercles harmless; and also by suspending that tendency of the system to generate or deposit tuberculous matter.

"The Red Sulphur water may be used with the most decided benefit in obstinate cases of bowel complaint, gleet, leucorrhœa, catarrh of the bladder, and uterine derangement."

The other route from Washington City to the Virginia Springs is by railroad to Harper's Ferry, 104 miles. Stopping at this place, the traveller has an opportunity of viewing the "Passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge," which, says Mr. Jefferson, "is one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point of land; on your right up comes the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the mountain a hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also; in the moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opinion that this earth has been created in time; that the mountains were formed first; that the rivers began to flow afterwards; that in this place particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue Ridge Mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley; that, continuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, particularly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disrupture and avulsion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression. But the distant finishing which Nature has given to the picture is of a very different character; it is a true contrast to the foreground; it is as placid and delightful as that is wild and tremendous; for the mountain being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the clefts, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult warring around, to pass through the breach and participate of the calm below. There the eye ultimately composes itself, and that way, too, the road happens actually to lead. You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about twenty miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country round that. The scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic, yet here, as in the neighbourhood of the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed their lives within half a dozen miles, and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its centre.'

"From Harper's Ferry, we take the cars to Charlestown, 10 miles. Leaving the cars at this place, an opportunity is afforded of visiting

"They are in Jefferson County, five miles south from Charlestown, on an eminence of the Shenandoah; in a healthy and delightful region. The reputation of the water is so well established, that it is deemed scarcely necessary to mention its qualities. It is sent for and taken to New York, Charleston, and other distant places. The analysis of the late Dr. De Butts, in 1821, classed the principal fountain with the saline chalybeates,—a combination of the most valuable description in the whole range of mineral waters, and closely resembling those of the celebrated Bedford, in composition, operation, and efficacy. There is also a highly valuable sulphur spring in the vicinity. Apart from the merits of the waters, Shannondale is remarkable for the sublime and beautiful natural scenery, which is said to surpass Bath and Bristol in England, and that of Saratoga and Ballston in New York."

Returning to Charlestown, we again take the cars for Winchester, 22 miles. This is a very flourishing town, and the largest in the valley of Virginia. Here ends railroad travelling on this route. Twenty-two miles west from this place, in Hampshire County, are

The following account of these springs is copied from an advertisement of June, 1850.

"The high reputation of the waters of the 'Capon Spring' is not permanently established, but is yearly increasing, particularly in cases of dyspepsia, general debility, &c.

"Its convenience of access renders it an available point for invalids, or persons who are not disposed to undergo the fatigues of a long journey, over rough and dusty roads, in the heat of summer. Being near the route to the White Sulphur, in Greenbrier, it will be a delightful resting-place for persons visiting those celebrated springs. The well-attested, cool, dry mountain atmosphere of 'Capon;' the fine sulphur and chalybeate waters in its immediate vicinity; its neighbouring trout streams and river fishing; its shaded walks and drives, (now being constructed,) with the usual amusements of a mountain watering-place, impart to it some of its attractions and claims on the public, and fully establishes it as one of the most agreeable as well as accessible summer retreats in this country, either for the seekers of health or pleasure."

This watering-place not being on the main valley route, we return to Winchester. Six miles north of this place are

This watering-place has lately come into notice, and is growing in popular favour. The water is said to resemble the celebrated White Sulphur Spring of Greenbrier. Again returning to Winchester, we proceed on our way upon the macadamized road up the beautiful valley of Virginia to Newtown, 8 miles, Strasburg, 10 miles, Woodstock, 11½ miles. Eighteen miles from this, in Shenandoah County, are the

"These waters are composed of several lively springs, and are strongly chalybeate. Everything the water passes through, or over, is beautifully lined with a bright yellow fringe or moss. The use of this water is found beneficial for the cure of several complaints. A free use of this water acts as a most powerful cathartic, as does also a small quantity of the fringe, or moss mixed with common water."

Returning to Woodstock, we once more take the macadamized road, to Mount Jackson, 13 miles, Newmarket, 7 miles, Spartapolis, 6½ miles, Harrisonburg, 11 miles. Twelve miles from this place is

The following account of this watering-place is given by Dr. Moorman, in his work on the White Sulphur Springs.

"Rawley's Spring is situated on the southern slope of the North Mountain, in the county of Rockingham, 12 miles northwest from Harrisonburg, and about 120 miles northeast from the White Sulphur. The Rawley water is a strong and pure chalybeate, and well adapted to cases requiring such a tonic.

"The writer has had some experience in the use of this water, and for many years has been in the habit of occasionally directing its use in cases to which it is applicable. As a pure iron tonic, it deserves to stand at the very head of that class of remedies.

"In that class of female affections, dependent upon debility or want of tone in the uterine system, this water is an exceedingly valuable remedy. Its salutary effects in cases of this description are often as remarkable as they are gratifying, restoring the functions of the debilitated organ, and imparting vigour and health to the whole system."

From Harrisonburg we proceed to Mount Crawford, 8 miles, Mount Sidney, 7 miles, thence to Staunton, 10 miles.

Leaving the macadamized road at Harrisonburg, visiters to the springs frequently travel, via the Augusta Springs, to the Warm Springs, 60 miles, thereby shortening the distance about 14 miles.

Another route, via Staunton, to the springs, is to Lexington, 35 miles. This is the prettiest town in the valley of Virginia. Here are located Washington College and the "Virginia Military Institute," both flourishing institutions. The Natural Bridge is 15 miles southwest of Lexington; and 17 miles west of Lexington are the

On the stage road to the Bath Alum and the Warm Springs, in Bath County. The improvements here are new and comfortable, sufficient to accommodate about one hundred persons.

"This water contains a rare and valuable combination of materials; the principal are iodine, sulphates of iron and alum, magnesia, and sulphuric acid. The water is tonic, increasing the appetite and promoting digestion; it is alterative, exciting the secretions of the glandular system generally, and particularly of the liver and kidneys; it is cathartic, producing copious bilious evacuations; and it also effects a determination to the surface, increasing the perspiration.

"From the efficacy of these waters in purifying the blood, they are invaluable in the cure of all diseases of the skin; and all indolent sores, not disposed to a healthy action. In the use of them for such diseases, if the disease of the skin appears to be irritated at first, or if the ulcers become more inflamed, and discharge more freely, let not this circumstance alarm any one, or deter him from persevering in their use. These are the evidences of the good effects of the waters, in expelling the vitiated humours from the blood to the surface, and, until the blood is purified, such diseases cannot be cured. In scrofulous ulcers, the use of these waters invariably causes them to discharge more freely, and in a short time of a more healthy appearance. They are a very useful remedy in cholera infantum, or the summer bowel complaint in children. They immediately give a good appetite, promote digestion, and will effectually correct and cure acidity of the stomach. In amenorrhœa, dysmenorrhœa, and leucorrhœa, the waters are peculiarly efficacious. Most obstinate cases of scrofula, erysipelas, and dyspepsia, have been cured by these waters, which preserve their medicinal qualities when sent away in barrels."

From Richmond the routes to the Springs are, railroad to the junction, 27 miles, and from thence to Charlottesville as already given; or by James River Canal to Scottsville, 79 miles, and from thence by stage to Brooksville, 25 miles; or continuing on the canal to Lynchburg, 67 miles, and thence by stage to the Natural Bridge, 38 miles.

This celebrated curiosity is in the county of Rockbridge. It crosses a small stream called "Cedar Creek." Howe, in his Sketches of Virginia, has the following eloquent description, which was published originally in Europe.

"This famous bridge is on the head of a fine limestone hill, which has the appearance of having been rent asunder by some terrible convulsion in nature. The fissure thus made is about 90 feet; and over it the bridge runs, so needful to the spot, and so unlikely to have survived the great fracture, as to seem the work of man; so simple, so grand, so great, as to assure you that it is only the work of God. The span of the arch runs from 45 to 60 feet wide; and its height, to the underline is about 200 feet, and to the head about 240! The form of the arch approaches to the elliptical, and it is carried over a diagonal line, the very line of all others so difficult to the architect to realize, and yet so calculated to enhance the picturesque beauty of the object.

"There are chiefly three points of sight. You naturally make your way to the head of the bridge first, and as it is a continuation of the common road, with its sides covered with fine shrubs and trees, you may be on it before you are aware; but the moment you approach through the foliage to the side you are filled with apprehension. It has, indeed, a natural parapet, but few persons can stand forward and look over. You instinctively seek to reduce your height, that you may gaze on what you admire with security. Even then it agitates you with dizzy sensations. You then make your way some fifty feet down the bosom of the hill, and are supplied with some admirable standings on the projecting rockwork, to see the bridge and all its rich accompaniments. There is, 200 feet below you, the Cedar Creek, apparently motionless, except where it flashes with light as it cuts its way through the broken rocks. Mark the trees of every variety, but especially the fir, how they diminish as they stand on the margin of its bed; and how they ascend, step by step, on the noble rockwork, till they overshadow you, still preserving such delicacy of form and growth, as if they would not do an injury while they lend a grace. Observe those hills, gathering all around you in their fairest forms and richest verdure, as if to do honour to a scene of surpassing excellence. Now look at the bridge itself, springing from this bed of verdant loveliness, distinct, one, complete! It is before you in its most picturesque form; you just see through the arch, and the internal face of the further pier is perfectly revealed. Did you ever see such a pier, such an arch? Is it not most illusive? Look at that masonry. Is it not most like the perfection of art, and yet what art could never reach? Look at that colouring. Does it not appear like the painter's highest skill, and yet unspeakably transcend it? This is exquisite; still, you have no just conception of this masterpiece until you get below. You go some little distance for this purpose, as in the vicinity of the bridge the rocks are far too precipitous. A hot and brilliant day is, of all others, the time to enjoy this object. To escape from a sun which scorches you, into these verdant and cool bottoms, is a luxury of itself, which disposes you to relish everything else. When down, I was careful of the first impression, and did not venture to look steadily on the objects about me till I had selected my station. At length I placed myself about 100 feet from the bridge, on some masses of rock, which were washed by the running waters, and ornamented by the slender trees which were springing from its fissures. At my feet was the soothing melody of the rippling, gushing waters; behind me, and in the distance, the creek and the hills were expanding themselves to the light and splendour of day; before me, and all around, everything was reposing in the most delightful shade, set off by the streaming rays of the sun, which shot across the head of the picture far above you, and sweetened the solitude below. On the right and left, the majestic rocks arose, with the decision of a wall, but without its uniformity, massive, broken, beautiful, and supplying a most admirable foreground; and, everywhere, the most delicate stems were planted in their crevices, and waving their heads in the soft breeze, which occasionally came over them. The eye now ran through the bridge, and was gratified with a lovely vista. The Blue Mountains stood out in the background; beneath them, the hills and woods gathered together, so as to enclose the dell below; while the creek, which was coursing away from them, seemed to have its well-head hidden in their recesses. Then there is the arch distinct from everything, and above everything. Massive as it is, it is light and beautiful by its height, and the fine trees on its summit seem now only like a garland of evergreens; and, elevated as it is, its apparent elevation is wonderfully increased by the narrowness of its piers, and by its outline being drawn on the blue sky, which appears beneath and above it! Oh, it is sublime—so strong, and yet so elegant—springing from the earth, and bathing its head in heaven! But it is the sublime not allied to the terrific, as at Niagara; it is the sublime associated with the pleasing. I sat and gazed in wonder and astonishment. That afternoon was the shortest I ever remember. I had quickly, too quickly, to leave the spot for ever; but the music of those waters, the luxury of those shades, the form and colour of those rocks, and that arch—that arch—rising over all, and seeming to offer a passage to the skies—O, they will never leave me!"

In Botetourt County, 19 miles. "This watering-place is 43 miles from the White Sulphur. The buildings here are very neat and comfortable, and sufficient for the accommodation of about 200 persons."

"Organic matter containing chloride of potassium, nitrogen, carbonate of lime, and carbonate of ammonia.

"The water of Dibrell's Spring partakes of all the general characteristics of the other sulphur waters, and may be used with good effects in all cases to which such waters are adapted. In certain dyspeptic depravities, especially, it deserves a high rank among our mineral waters."

From Dibrell's Spring the road leads by Clifton Forge, 10 miles,—the scenery at this place is very fine,—Covington, 13 miles, and to Calahan's, 5 miles.

Another route from Lynchburg is by stage to New London, 10 miles, to Liberty, 15 miles. Here we would advise the traveller to leave the stage, and make a visit to the Peaks of Otter. They are about 7 miles northwest from this place. The following description of them is from the Southern Literary Messenger:

"After riding about a mile and a quarter, we came to the point beyond which horses cannot be taken, and, dismounting our steeds, commenced ascending on foot. The way was very steep, and the day so warm, that we had to halt often to take breath. As we approached the summit, the trees were all of a dwarfish growth, and twisted and gnarled by the storms of that high region. There were, also, a few blackberry bushes, bearing their fruit long after the season had passed below. A few minutes longer brought us to where the trees ceased to grow; but a huge mass of rocks, piled wildly on the top of each other, finished the termination of the peak. Our path lay for some distance around the base of it, and under the overhanging battlements; and rather descending for a while, until it led to a part of the pile which could with some effort be scaled. There was no ladder, nor any artificial steps, and the only means of ascent was by climbing over the successive rocks. We soon stood upon the wild platform of one of nature's most magnificent observatories, isolated and apparently above all things else terrestrial, and looking down upon and over a beautiful, variegated, and at the same time grand, wild, wonderful, and almost boundless panorama. Indeed, it was literally boundless; for there was a considerable haze resting upon some parts of 'the world below;' so that, in the distant horizon, the earth and sky seemed insensibly to mingle with each other. I had been there before. I remember when a boy of little more than ten years old, to have been taken to that spot, and how my unpractised nerves forsook me at the sublimity of the scene. On this day it was as new as ever; as wild, wonderful, and sublime, as if I had never before looked from those isolated rocks, or stood on that awful summit. On one side, towards Eastern Virginia, lay a comparatively level country, in the distance bearing strong resemblance to the ocean; on the other hand were ranges of high mountains, interspersed with cultivated spots, and then terminating in piles of mountains, following in successive ranges, until they were lost also in the haze. Above and below, the Blue Ridge and Alleghanies ran off in long lines; sometimes relieved by knolls and peaks, and in one place above us making a graceful curve, and then again running off in a different line of direction. Very near us stood the rounded top of the other peak, looking like a sullen sentinel for its neighbour. We paused in silence for a time. We were there almost cut off from the world below, standing where it was fearful even to look down. It was more hazy than at the time of my last visit, but not too much so to destroy the interest of the scene.

"There was almost a sense of pain, at the stillness which seemed to reign. We could hear the flapping of the wings of the hawks and buzzards, as they seemed to be gathering a new impetus after sailing through one of their circles in the air below us. North of us, and on the other side of the Valley of Virginia, were the mountains near Lexington, just as seen from that beautiful village,—the Jump, North, and House Mountains succeeding each other; they were familiar with a thousand associations of our childhood, seeming mysteriously, when away from the spot, to bring my early home before me—not in imagination, such as had often haunted me when I first left to find another in the world, but in substantial reality.

"Further on down the valley, and at a great distance, was the top of a large mountain, which was thought to be the Great North Mountain, away down in Shenandoah County—I am afraid to say how far off. Intermediate between these mountains, and extending opposite and far above us, was the Valley of Virginia, with its numerous and highly cultivated farms. Across this valley, and in the distance, lay the remote ranges of the Alleghany and mountains about, and, I suppose, beyond the White Sulphur Springs. Nearer us, and separating Eastern and Western Virginia, was the Blue Ridge, more than ever showing the propriety of its cognomen of the 'backbone;' and on which we could distinctly see two zigzag turnpikes, the one leading to Fincastle, and the other to Buchanan; and over which latter we had travelled a few days before. With the spy-glass we could distinguish the houses in the village of Fincastle, some 25 or 30 miles off, and the road leading to the town.

"Turning towards the direction of our morning's ride, we had beneath us Bedford County, with its smaller mountains, farms, and farm-houses—the beautiful village of Liberty, the county roads, and occasionally a mill-pond, reflecting the sun like a sheet of polished silver. The houses on the hill at Lynchburg, 25 or 30 miles distant, are distinctly visible on a clear day, and also Willis' Mountain, away down in Buckingham County.

"I had often visited Bedford, and had been more or less familiar with it from childhood, but at our elevation, distances were so annihilated, and appearances so changed, that we could scarcely recognise the most familiar object. After some difficulty, we at length made out the residence of Dr. M., we had that morning left, and at that moment rendered more than usually interesting by containing, in addition to the other very dear relatives, two certain ladies, who sustained a very interesting connexion with the Doctor and myself, and one of whom had scarcely laid aside the blushes on her bridal hour.

"A little beyond this, I recognised the former residence of a beloved sister, now living in a far distant southern state. It was the same steep hill ascending to the gate, the same grove around the house, as when she lived there, and the same as when I played there in my boyhood. And it was the first time I had seen it since the change of owners. I then saw it from the Peaks of Otter: but it touched a thousand tender chords; and I almost wept when I thought that those I once there loved were far away, and that the scenes of my youthful days could not return.

"Myself and companions had, some time before, gotten on different rocks, that we might not interrupt each other in our contemplations. I could not refrain, however, from saying to one of them, 'What little things we are! how factitious our ideas of what is extensive in territory and distance!' A splendid estate was about the size I could step over; and I could stand and look at the very house whence I used to start in days gone by, and follow with my eye my day's journey to the spot where, wearied and worn, I dismounted with the setting sun. Yet I could look over what seemed so great a space, with a single glance. I could also look away down the Valley of Virginia, and trace the country, and, in imagination, the stage coach, as it slowly wound its way, day and night for successive days, to reach the termination of what I could throw my eye over in a moment. I was impressively reminded of the extreme littleness with which these things of earth would all appear, when the tie of life which binds us here is broken, and we shall all be able to look back and down upon them from another world. The scene and place are well calculated to excite such thoughts.

"It is said that John Randolph once spent the night on these elevated rocks, attended by no one but his servant; and that, when in the morning he had witnessed the sun rising over the majestic scene, he turned to his servant, having no other to whom he could express his thoughts, and charged him, 'Never from that time to believe any who told him there was no God.'

"I confess, also, that my mind was most forcibly carried to the judgment day; and I could but call the attention of my companions to what would, probably, then be the sublime terror of the scene we now beheld, when the mountains we saw and stood upon, should all be melted down like wax; when the flames should be driving over the immense expanse before us; when the heavens over us should be 'passing away with a great noise;' and when the air beneath and around us should be filled with the very inhabitants now dwelling, and busied in that world beneath us."

After the traveller has gratified his curiosity beholding the Peaks of Otter, he may resume the stage at Liberty, and proceed on his route to the springs, via Bufort's, 14 miles; Fincastle, 14 miles; Sweet Springs, 32 miles; Red Sweet, 1 mile; and White Sulphur, 16 miles.

Visiters to the Virginia Springs from the south or west by the Ohio River, generally leave the river at Guyandotte, taking the stage to Charleston, 48 miles. This beautiful town is in the rich valley of the Kanawha, immediately on the banks of the river. About five miles from this place are the Salines, where are to be seen the Gas-Wells. The following interesting account of these is from the Lexington Gazette of 1843:

"These wonderful wells have been so lately discovered, that as yet only a brief and imperfect notice of them has appeared in the newspapers. But they are a phenomenon so very curious and interesting, that a more complete description will doubtless be acceptable to the public.

"They are, in fact, a new thing under the sun; for in all the history of the world, it does not appear that a fountain of strong brine was ever before known to be mingled with a fountain of inflammable gas, sufficient to pump it out in a constant stream, and then by its combustion, to evaporate the whole into salt of the best quality.

"We shall introduce our account of these wells by some remarks on the geological structure of the country at the Kanawha Salt Works, and on the manner in which the salt water is obtained.

"The country is mountainous, and the low grounds along the river are altogether alluvial, the whole space of a mile in width, having been at some time the bed of the river. The rocks are chiefly sandstone of various qualities, lying in beds, or strata, from two inches to several feet in thickness. These strata are nearly horizontal, but dipping a little, as in other parts of the country, towards the northwest. At the Salt Works they have somehow been heaved up into a swell above the line of general direction, so as to raise the deep strata nigher to the surface, and thus to bring those in which the salt water is found within striking distance.

"Among the sand-rocks are found layers of slate and coal; this latter being also, by the same upheaving, made more conveniently accessible than in most other parts of the country.

"The salt water is obtained by sinking a tight curb, or gum, at the edge of the river, down about twenty feet, to the rock which underlies the river, and then boring into the rock. At first the borings did not exceed 200 feet in depth, but the upper strata of water being exhausted, the wells were gradually deepened, the water of the lower strata being generally stronger than the upper had ever been. Until 1842, none of the wells exceeded 6 or 700 feet in depth. Mr. Tompkins, an enterprising salt-maker, was the first to extend his borings to a thousand feet, or more. His experiment was attended with a most unexpected result. He had somewhat exceeded a thousand feet, when he struck a crevice in the rock, and forth gushed a powerful stream of mingled gas and salt water. Generally, the salt water in the wells was obtained in rock merely porous, and rose by hydrostatic pressure to the level of the river. To obtain the strong water of the lower strata, unmixed with the weak water above, it is the practice to insert a copper tube into the hole, making it fit tightly below by means of wrapping on the outside, and attaching the upper end to the pump, by which the water is drawn up to the furnaces on the river bank.

"When Mr. Tompkins inserted his tube, the water gushed out so forcibly, that instead of applying the pump, he only lengthened his tube above the well. The stream followed it with undiminished velocity to his water cistern, 60 feet above the level of the river.

"In the next place, he inserted the end of the spout from which the water and gas flowed, into a large hogshead, making a hole in the bottom to let out the water into the cistern. Thus the light gas was caught in the upper part of the hogshead, and thence conducted by pipes to the furnace, where it mingled with the blaze of the coal fire. It so increased the heat as to make very little coal necessary; and if the furnace were adapted to the economical use of this gaseous fuel, it would evaporate all the water of the well, though the quantity is sufficient to make five hundred bushels of salt per day. The same gentleman has since obtained a second gas-well near the former, and in all respects similar to it. Other proprietors of wells have also struck gas-fountains by deep boring. In one of these wells the gas forces the water up violently, but by fits, the gush continuing for some two or three hours, and then ceasing for about the same length of time. In another of these wells there has been very recently struck, a gas-fountain that acts with such prodigious violence as to make the tubing of the well in the usual way impossible; when the copper tube was forced down through the rushing stream of brine and gas, it was immediately flattened by the pressure; and the auger-hole must be enlarged to admit a tube sufficiently strong and capacious to give vent to the stream without being crushed. In another well, a mile and a half from any gas-well, a powerful stream of gas has been recently struck. It forces up the water with great power; but, unfortunately for the proprietor, the water is too weak to be profitably worked. It appears from this fact, that the gas is not inseparably connected with strong brine. When struck before good salt water is reached, it will operate injuriously, for no water obtained below it can rise at all, unless the pressure of the gas be taken off by means of a strong tube extending below it.

"Several wells have been bored to a depth equal to that of the gas-wells, without striking the gas; the source of which seems to lie below, perhaps far below, the depth of the wells. This light elastic substance, wheresoever and howsoever generated, naturally presses upwards for a vent, urging its way through every pore and crevice of the superincumbent rocks; and the well-borer's auger must find it in one of the narrow routes of its upward passage, or penetrate to its native coal-bed before it will burst forth by the artificial vent.

"The opinion just intimated, that the gas originates in deep coal beds, is founded on the fact that it is the same sort of gas that constitutes the dangerous fire-damp of coal-pits, and the same that is manufactured out of bituminous coal for illuminating our cities. It is a mixture of carburetted and sulphuretted hydrogen. Philosophers tell us that bituminous coal becomes anthracite by the conversion of its bitumen and sulphur into this gas, and that water acts a necessary part in the process. Whether the presence of salt water causes a more rapid evolution of the gas, the present writer will not undertake to say; but somehow, the quantity generated in the salt region of Kanawha is most extraordinary.

"It finds in this region innumerable small natural vents. It is seen in many places bubbling up through the sand at the bottom of the river, and probably brings up salt water with it, as in the gas-wells, but in small quantity. The celebrated burning spring is the only one of its natural vents apparent on dry land. This stream of gas, unaccompanied by water, has forced its way from the rocks below, through 70 or 80 feet of alluvial ground, and within 80 yards of the river bank. It is near this burning spring where the principal gas-wells have been found; but, twenty-five years ago, or more, a gas-fountain was struck in a well 200 feet deep, near Charleston, 7 miles below the burning spring. This blew up, by fits, a jet of weak salt water 20 or 30 feet high. On a torch being applied to it one night, brilliant flames played and flashed about the watery column in the most wonderful manner."

Leaving the Salines, we pass on to the Falls of Kanawha, 30 miles; to Gauley Bridge, 5 miles; and to the Hawk's Nest, 8 miles.

Marshall's Pillar, or the Hawk's Nest, as it is more generally called, is in Fayette County, on New River, within a few yards of the Kanawha Turnpike. This rocky precipice rises perpendicularly above the river, to the height of about 1000 feet. The following account of this great curiosity, given by a foreign traveller, is from Howe's Sketches of Virginia, to which work we are indebted for most of the matter respecting the curiosities of the state.

"You leave the road by a little by-path, and after pursuing it for a short distance, the whole scene suddenly breaks upon you. But how shall we describe it? The great charm of the whole is connected with the point of sight, which is the finest imaginable. You come suddenly to a spot which is called the Hawk's Nest. It projects on the scene, and is so small as to give standing to only some half dozen persons. It has on its head an old picturesque pine; and it breaks away at your feet, abruptly and in perpendicular lines, to a depth of more than 1000 feet. On this standing, which, by its elevated and detached character, affects you like the monument, the forest rises above and around you. Beneath, and before you, is spread a lovely valley. A peaceful river glides down it, reflecting, like a mirror, all the lights of heaven—washes the foot of the rocks on which you are standing—and then winds away into another valley at your right. The trees of the wood, in all their variety, stand out on the verdant bottoms, with their heads in the sun, and casting their shadows at their feet; but so diminished, as to look more like the pictures of the things than the things themselves. The green hills rise on either hand and all around, and give completeness and beauty to the scene; and beyond these appears the gray outline of the more distant mountains, bestowing grandeur to what was supremely beautiful. It is exquisite. It conveys to you the idea of perfect solitude. The hand of man, the foot of man, seem never to have touched that valley. To you, though placed in the midst of it, it seems altogether inaccessible. You long to stroll along the margin of those sweet waters, and repose under the shadows of those beautiful trees; but it looks impossible. It is solitude, but of a most soothing, not of an appalling character—where sorrow might learn to forget her griefs, and folly begin to be wise and happy."

From the Hawk's Nest, the route is via Locust Lane, 2 miles; Blue Sulphur, 40 miles; Lewisburg, 13 miles; and to the White Sulphur, 9 miles.

Having described all the springs, of which we have any information, immediately on the main routes from the city of Washington to the White Sulphur, we will now give an account of all other watering-places within our knowledge. The following account of the Berkeley Springs has been furnished us; and although it is longer than the description of any other watering-place given in this work, we have been induced in consequence of their antiquity to insert the whole.

"Berkeley Springs are situated in the town of Bath, Morgan County, Virginia, 2½ miles from Sir John's Depot, a point on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, 130 miles west of Baltimore, and 49 miles east of Cumberland, Maryland. A good mountain road connects with the railroad, and during the bathing season, which lasts from the 1st of June until the 1st of October, fine coaches are always in attendance at the depot. Three large springs, and a number of inferior ones, gush out from the foot of the Warm Spring Ridge, all within the distance of 70 or 80 yards, forming a bold and beautiful stream, which in its course down the valley supplies several mills and factories, and empties into the Potomac opposite Hancock, Maryland, 6 miles distant. The water of all these fountains is of the same character, light, sparkling, and tasteless, their temperatures ranging from 72° to 74° Fahrenheit, and their character and volume being in no way affected by variations of the weather or changes of the seasons. The gentlemen's bath-house, a substantial brick building, contains ten large bathing-rooms. The baths are of cement, 12 feet long, 5 feet wide, and 4½ deep, filled from a reservoir by a four inch pipe, and contain about 1600 gallons each. The luxury of these capacious plunges can only be appreciated by those who have tried them. The ladies' bath-house, on the opposite side of the grove, contains nine baths of similar dimensions, and adjoining this is an establishment for shower, spout, and artificial warm baths. The whole is enclosed by a beautiful grove several acres in extent, and handsomely improved.

"The ownership of these springs is vested in a body of trustees, appointed originally by the Legislature of Virginia, and the improvements are made and kept up by means of the revenue derived from the annual visiters. The charges for the use of the baths are as follows:—Single bath, 25 cents; season ticket, $2 50. Children and servants half the above rates. Life ticket, $15 00. A season ticket entitles the purchaser to the use of the bath during the whole bathing season. A life ticket entitles the purchaser and his immediate family to the use of the bath during the life of such purchaser, with the additional fee of 50 cents per annum from each individual to the bath-keeper. Arrangements are making for extending and improving the bathing accommodation, so as to give the public the full benefit of a restorative and luxury so copiously supplied by nature. It has been estimated that these springs furnish water at the rate of 800 or 1000 gallons per minute.

"Bath is the county town of Morgan, has a daily mail, and contains about 250 inhabitants. The scenery in the neighbourhood is wild and picturesque, and the view from Capon Mountain, showing the junction of the Capon and Potomac Rivers, is quite celebrated. There are also, in the immediate vicinity, a number of fine sulphur and chalybeate springs.

"Although these waters possess considerable medicinal virtue when taken internally, yet it is to their external use that they chiefly owe their celebrity; their delightful medium temperature, in connexion with other properties, adapting them to a wide range of diseases, and giving them a decided advantage over most other waters known in this country. They have never been accurately analyzed, but the presence of purgative and diuretic salts has been ascertained, though the impregnation is not strong, and the amount uncertain.

"This water is tasteless, insipid from its warmth, and is so light in its character, that very large quantities may be taken into the stomach without producing oppression or uneasiness. Persons generally become fond of it after a time, and when cooled it is a delightful beverage. It is beneficial in a class of chronic and subacute disorders, such as derangements of the stomach, with impaired appetite and feeble digestion, and chronic diseases of the abdominal viscera not connected with a high degree of organic disease. Their salutary effects in these cases would seem to depend upon the exceedingly light character of the waters, aided by their gentle alkaline properties, neutralizing acidity, and then invigorating and soothing the viscera.

"In the early stages of calculous diseases, attended with irritable bladder, their free use internally and externally is frequently of great benefit.

"Externally used, these waters are beneficial in the whole class of nervous disorders, especially in those irregular anomalous diseases more frequently met with in females when not connected with a full habit or extreme debility. They are useful in all uterine diseases when active inflammation is not present. In cases of relaxed habit and debility, when sufficient power of reaction exists in the system, their tonic and bracing properties are very decided. Persons suffering from a residence in warm, low, and damp climates, and subject to nervous affections, will generally find them a complete restorative. They are very useful in chronic diseases of the mucous membrane, such as leucorrhœa, gonorrhœa, &c., and certain forms of bronchial disease arising from a relaxed condition of the membrane; also in local paralytic affections unconnected with congestion of the brain.

"In chronic rheumatism these baths have been pronounced a specific. Of their mode of action little is known with certainty, but the results are undeniable and admirable. The most obstinate, complicated, and troublesome cases invariably yield to a patient and judicious use of the remedy. The milder cases generally yield in ten days or two weeks, those of longer standing require a longer time for their eradication.

"It is to be regretted that the results of a careful analysis, and a more extended medical notice, cannot now be given to the public; but probably practical experience is after all the best test to which a mineral water can be subjected, and this test Berkeley has stood for more than eighty years with increasing reputation.

"Strother's is the principal hotel in the place. It adjoins the grove, and will accommodate comfortably about 400 persons. It is built of wood, on three sides of a quadrangle, 168 feet front by 197. The front building is four stories high, has a portico 130 feet long by 16 wide; a dining and ball-room 106 feet by 30, three large public parlours, and a bar-room. The wings are respectively two and three stories high. A basement of stone, fire proof, roomy, and well ventilated, contains the kitchen department and wine cellar. The court yard, about 100 feet square, is tastefully ornamented with trees, flowers, and shrubbery. Besides the ordinary single and double chambers, this house contains about thirty suites of apartments, of two, three, and four chambers, for the accommodation of families. The main building, with several out-houses, contains 200 lodging rooms, all neat, well ventilated, and conveniently arranged. In conducting this establishment essential comfort is generally preferred to external appearance, although the latter is by no means neglected. The furniture is neat, new, and simple, while the beds and bedding are costly and of the finest quality. The mattresses are of curled hair, and made by the best upholsterers of Baltimore, the table is admirably served, and the ice-houses capacious and unfailing.

"Attached to the hotel, are a fine band of music, billiard tables, pistol gallery, and ten-pin alleys. Riding horses, buggies, and carriages, are furnished for pleasure excursions.

"O'Ferrall's hotel is conveniently situated, well kept, and will accommodate about 100 persons. Other accommodation for 150 persons may be found in the place."

"These springs were resorted to by invalids at a very early period, and had great celebrity throughout the colonies. Hundreds annually flocked thither from all quarters, and traditional accounts of the accommodations and amusements of these primitive times are calculated to excite both the mirth and envy of the present age. Rude log huts, board and canvass tents, and even covered wagons, served as lodging-rooms, while every family brought its own substantial provision of flour, meal, and bacon, trusting for lighter articles of diet to the good will of the 'Hill Folk,' or the success of their own foragers.

"A large hollow scooped in the sand, surrounded by a screen of pine boards, was the only bathing-house, and this was used alternately by ladies and gentlemen. The time set apart for the ladies was announced by a blast on a long tin horn, at which signal all of the opposite sex retired to a prescribed distance from the rustic bath-house, and woe to any unlucky wight who might afterward be found within the magic circle. The whole scene is said to have resembled a camp-meeting in appearance, but only in appearance. Here day and night passed in a round of eating, drinking, bathing, fiddling, dancing, and revelling; gaming was carried to great excess, and horse-racing was a daily amusement.

"Dated October, 1776, in the first year of the commonwealth, we find the following in the statute-book of Virginia.

"'An Act for establishing a Town at the Warm Springs, in the County of Berkeley.

"'Whereas, it hath been represented to the General Assembly, that the laying off fifty acres of land in lots and streets, for a town at the Warm Springs, in the County of Berkeley, will be of great utility, by encouraging the purchasers thereof to build convenient houses for accommodating numbers of infirm, who frequent those springs yearly for the recovery of their health.

"'Be it therefore enacted by the General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Virginia, that fifty acres of land adjoining the said springs, being part of a larger tract of land the property of the Right Honourable Thomas, Lord Fairfax, or other person or persons holding the same by a grant or conveyance from him, be and the same is hereby invested in Bryan Fairfax, Thomas Bryan Martin, Warner Washington, Rev. Charles M. Thurston, Robert Rutherford, Thomas Rutherford, Alexander White, Philip Pendleton, Samuel Washington, William Elbzey, Van Swearengen, Thomas Hite, James Edmondson, James Nourse, gentlemen trustees, to be by them, or any seven of them, laid out into lots of quarter of an acre each, with convenient streets, which shall be, and the same is, hereby established a town by the name of Bath,' &c., &c., &c.—(See Herring's Statutes at Large.)

"The town was consequently laid off, and a sale of lots made in August, 1777. Among the purchasers were Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, Horatio Gates, Gen. George Washington, and many others of note and distinction.

"The sites of these houses are still pointed out. In the Memoirs of the Baroness de Reidesel (wife of the German General who was taken prisoner at the surrender of Burgoyne), she speaks of having passed part of the summer of 1779 at these springs with her invalid husband, and mentions having made the acquaintance of Gen. Washington's family there. She devotes a page or two of her most interesting work to the narration of quaint and pleasant incidents, illustrating their mode of life at the springs, and at the same time illustrating (though unintentionally) the excellent and amiable character of the authoress.

"After the revolutionary war, the accommodations at the springs were greatly improved and extended; but as the States progressed in population and prosperity a host of other bathing-places and mineral springs were discovered and improved. Saratoga at the north, and the great White Sulphur at the south, began to rival Berkeley in the race for public favour; and from the superior spirit and enterprise shown in their improvement soon left her far behind. Her register of thousands was reduced to some five or six hundred per annum, and her hotels and bath-houses seemed destined to decay. In 1844 a fire accomplished in one night what time was doing gradually. Fourteen buildings, including the court-house and half the hotel accommodations, were destroyed. Colonel John Strother, lessee of this property, made immediate preparation for the erection of a hotel on his own ground, and by the next season (1845) the west wing, two stories high, was ready for company. The year following the east wing, three stories high, and part of the front was erected, and in 1848 the whole building was completed. The erection of this hotel, and the completion of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad to Cumberland, have restored Berkeley almost to her former prosperity, and from twelve to fifteen hundred persons annually register their names there, and enjoy the unrivalled luxury of her baths.

"Prior to the year 1772 these springs were called the Frederick Springs, from Frederick County, and frequently the 'Warm Springs;' but after the creation of Berkeley County, in 1772, and the discovery of the Warm Springs in Bath County, they were called the Berkeley Springs. In 1820, Morgan County was created from Berkeley, including the springs, but the post-office still retains the old name, and letters should be directed to Berkeley Springs, Morgan County, Virginia."

This very celebrated watering-place is in Fauquier County, 6 miles southwest of Warrenton. The improvements are very extensive, and the grounds beautifully adorned. The accommodations are perhaps sufficient to entertain as many visiters as almost any other watering-place in the State. Had it been in our power, we should have given a fuller account of these springs, together with an analysis of the water.

Beside these springs, there are numerous others of less note scattered through the State, among which are

"They are located immediately on the west side of the Blue Ridge, on the bank of New River, about 20 miles south of Wytheville, in the midst of scenery of a remarkably wild and romantic character, similar to that of Harper's Ferry, in a region perhaps as healthy as any in our country; abounding with fish and a variety of game. The analysis of this water, by Professors Rogers and Aiken, is as follows:

"Carbonate of soda, 4½; carbonate of magnesia, 3; carbonate of lime, 8; sulphate of lime, 2; sulphate of magnesia, 3; chloride of sodium, 2; chloride of calcium, 3; chloride of magnesium, 1¾; sulphate of soda, 4½; sulphuretted hydrogen, carbonic acid gases.

Botetourt Springs, in Roanoke, 12 miles from Fincastle, were formerly quite popular.

Among some of the natural curiosities, not immediately on the route to the Springs, we find in Hampshire County, within reach of visiters to the Capon Springs, the "Ice Mountain."

"It rises from the eastern bank of the North River, a branch of the Capon, and is 26 miles southwest from Winchester, and 16 miles east of Romney. It is about 400 or 500 feet high.

"The west side of the mountain, for about a quarter of a mile, is covered with a mass of loose stone, of light colour, which reaches down to the bank of the river. By removing the loose stone, pure crystal ice can always be found in the warmest days of summer. It has been discovered even as late as the 15th of September; but never in October, although it may exist through the entire year, and be found, if the rocks were excavated to a sufficient depth. The body of rocks where ice is found is subject to the full rays of the sun from nine o'clock in the morning until sunset. The sun does not have the effect of melting the ice as much as continual rains. At the base of the mountain is a spring of water, colder by many degrees than spring water generally is." There are several other natural curiosities in this county.

"Caudy's Castle, the fragment of a mountain in the shape of a half cone, with a very narrow base, which rises from the banks of the Capon to the height of about 500 feet, presents a sublime and majestic appearance. The 'Tea Table' is about 10 miles below Caudy's Castle, in a deep ragged glen, 3 or 4 miles east of the Capon. This table is a solid rock, and presents the form of a man's hat standing on its crown. It is about 4 feet in height and the same in diameter. From the top issues a clear stream of water, which flows over the brim on all sides, and forms a fountain of exquisite beauty. The Hanging Rocks are about 4 miles north of Romney. There the Wappatomka River has cut its way through a mountain of about 500 feet in height. The boldness of the rocks, and the wildness of the scene, excite awe in the beholder."

This great curiosity is in Scott County, about 12 miles west of Estillville, the county seat. The following description of it is from the "American Journal of Geology."

"To form an adequate idea of this remarkable and truly sublime object, we have only to imagine the creek, to which it gives a passage, meandering through a deep narrow valley, here and there bounded on both sides by walls or revêtements, rising to the height of two or three hundred feet above the stream; and that a portion of one of these chasms, instead of presenting an open thorough cut from the summit to the base of the high grounds, is intercepted by a continuous, unbroken ridge, more than three hundred feet high, extending entirely across the valley, and perforated transversely at its base, after the manner of an artificial tunnel, and thus affording a spacious subterranean channel for the passage of the stream.

"The entrance to the Natural Tunnel, on the upper side of the ridge, is imposing and picturesque, in a high degree; but on the lower side, the grandeur of the scene is greatly heightened by the superior magnitude of the cliffs, which exceed in loftiness, and which rise perpendicularly—and in some instances in an impending manner—more than three hundred feet; and by which the entrance on this side is almost environed, as it were, by an amphitheatre of rude and frightful precipices.

"The observer, standing on the brink of the stream, at the distance of about one hundred yards below the debouchure of the Natural Tunnel, has, in front, a view of its arched entrance, rising seventy or eighty feet above the water, and surmounted by horizontal stratifications of yellowish, white, and gray rocks, in depth nearly twice the height of the arch. On his left, a view of the same mural precipice, deflected from the springing of the arch in a manner to pass in a continuous curve quite to his rear, and towering in a very impressive manner above his head. On his right, a sapling growth of buckeye, poplar, lindens, &c., skirting the margin of the creek, and extending obliquely to the right, and upwards through a narrow, abrupt ravine, to the summit of the ridge, which is here, and elsewhere, crowned with a timber-growth of pines, cedar, oaks, and shrubbery of various kinds. On his extreme right is a gigantic cliff, lifting itself up perpendicularly from the water's edge, to the height of about three hundred feet, and accompanied by an insulated cliff, called The Chimney, of about the same altitude, rising in the form of a turret, at least sixty feet above its basement, which is a portion of the imposing cliff just before mentioned."

"This is a very lofty eminence, in Floyd County, from the top of which the view is sublime. On the north, east, and west, the beholder is amazed at the boundless succession of mountains rising beyond mountains—while far away to the south, the plain seems to stretch to an interminable length. On the east, The Knob is accessible on horseback, being two miles in height from the beginning of the ascent to the highest point; on the west it breaks off precipitately, and presents the shape of the animal whose name it bears. This mountain is seen sixty or eighty miles, towering above all others. On the highest point is a space of about thirty acres, which is so elevated that not any trees grow there; and in the warmest days of summer, the visitor requires thick clothing to protect him from the cold. The spot is covered with fine grass, strawberry-vines, and gooseberry and currant-bushes. The fruit upon them is of superior flavour, but it does not ripen until two or three months later than upon the low-lands."

This curiosity is in Marshall County, about a quarter of a mile from the Ohio; it is 69 feet high, and 900 feet in circumference at the base, and has a flat top about 50 feet in diameter.

"A few years since a white oak, of about 70 feet in height, stood on the summit of the mound, which appeared to die of age. On carefully cutting the trunk transversely, the number of concentric circles showed that it was about 500 years old."

Besides Weyer's, there are other caves in the State, which are great curiosities, two of which are said to be nearly equal to Weyer's. One of them is in Page County, about a mile west of Luray, and the other in Warren County, about three miles south of Front Royal.

This curiosity is in Page County; and Kercheval gives the following account of it:

"The grandeur and sublimity of this extraordinary work of nature, consists in its tremendous height and singular formation. On entering the mouth of the fort, we are struck with the awful height of the mountains on each side, probably not less than a thousand feet. Through a very narrow passage, a bold and beautiful stream of water rushes, called Passage Creek, which a short distance below works several fine merchant mills. After travelling two or three miles, the valley gradually widens, and for upwards of twenty miles furnishes arable land, and affords settlement for eighty or ninety families, several of whom own very valuable farms. The two mountains run parallel 24 or 25 miles, and are called East and West Fort Mountains, and then are merged into one, anciently Mesinetto, now Masinutton Mountain. The Masinutton Mountain continues its course about 35 or 36 miles southerly, and abruptly terminates opposite Keisletown, in the County of Rockingham. This range of mountains divides the two branches of the Shenandoah River, called the South and North Forks. This mountain, upon the whole, presents to the eye something of the shape of the letter Y, or perhaps more the shape of the hounds and tongue of a wagon.

"A few miles above Luray, on the west side of the river, there are three large Indian Graves, ranged nearly side by side, 30 or 40 feet in length, 12 or 14 feet wide, and 5 or 6 feet high. Around them, in a circular form, are a number of single graves. The whole covers an area of little less than a quarter of an acre. They present to the eye a very ancient appearance, and are covered over with pine and other forest growth. The excavation of the ground around them is plainly to be seen. The three first-mentioned graves are in oblong form; probably contain many hundreds of human bodies, and were doubtless the work of ages.

"Peak Knob, 4 miles south of Newbern, is a prominent projection in Draper's Mountain, rising about 1,000 feet, and presenting from its summit a delightful and extensive landscape. Iron ore exists in abundance in this mountain, and also coal of a good quality. In its vicinity are mineral springs, supposed to possess valuable medicinal qualities.

"On the north bank of New River, near Newbern, there is a bluff called The Glass Windows, consisting of vertical rocks nearly 500 feet high, and forming the immediate bank of the stream for a distance of four miles. They are considered a great curiosity. The face of these rocks is perforated by a vast number of cavities, which no doubt lead to caves or cells within the mountain. Some of the cells have been explored, and found to contain saltpetre, stalactites, and other concretions."

Howe tells us, that in Washington County, "westerly from Abingdon, between Three Springs and the North Fork of Holston, on Abram's Creek, in a narrow, gloomy ravine, bounded by a high perpendicular ledge, is a large waterfall, which in one single leap descends perpendicularly 60 feet, and then falls about 40 feet more ere it reaches the bottom. The stream is about 20 feet wide."

FROM RICHMOND, VIA JAMES RIVER CANAL, TO LYNCHBURG, THENCE BY STAGE VIA THE NATURAL BRIDGE, DIBBREL'S SPRINGS, AND COVINGTON, TO THE WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS.

During the latter part of the session of the Legislature of 1851, three new counties were formed, one of which to be called Craig, out of parts of the counties of Botetourt, Giles, Monroe, and Roanoke; one to be called Upshur, out of parts of the counties of Randolph, Barbour, and Lewis; and the other to be called Pleasants, out of parts of the counties of Wood, Tyler, and Ritchie.

This school is under the patronage and control of the Baltimore Conference of the M. E. Church. It is designed to furnish, at a cheap rate, facilities for a thorough education, equal to those of the best schools. The several departments are in the charge of competent teachers. Diplomas are given to those who complete the prescribed course of study. The building is commodious, and is in all respects arranged for the convenience and comfort of pupils.

Assistants.—Rev. T. T. Castleman, Prof. C. Roux, Prof. Engelbrecht, Miss Hilleary, Miss Coleman.

William Kinney, Esq., T. J. Michie, Esq., Doct. T. T. Stribling, Doct. E. Berkeley, B. Crawford, Esq., Robt. S. Brooke, Esq., James Points, Esq.

William P. Farish & Co.'s Stage Lines offer great inducements to the travelling public. There is, perhaps, no Stage Company in the United States prepared to accommodate with so much comfort, safety, and convenience to the traveller, as Farish & Co.'s. Their coaches are new, handsome, and elegantly fitted up; their horses are well broken, and for appearance and speed unsurpassed; their agents are polite and accommodating, and their drivers are experienced, capable, and cautious. They have the means to accommodate the public, and will on no occasion spare them. The following is a schedule of their respective routes:

Leaves Charlottesville daily at 2 P.M., arrives at Staunton (the night stand) at 9 P.M.

Mail Line.—Leaves Winchester daily—except Sundays—at 4 P.M., arrives at Staunton next day at 8 A.M.

Daylight Line of Omnibusses.—Leaves Winchester Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 4 A.M., and arrives at Staunton same days at 6 P.M.

Leaves Staunton Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays (daily from June to Oct.,) at 9½ A.M., arrives at Cloverdale same days at 6 P.M. Leaves Cloverdale Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 4 A.M., and arrives at White Sulphur at 7 P.M. same days.

Leaves Lynchburg Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 4 A.M., arrives at Fincastle same days at 7 P.M. Leaves Fincastle Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 4 A.M., and arrives at White Sulphur at 7 P.M. same days.

Leaves Lynchburg Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 4 A.M., and arrives at Salem at 7 P.M. same days; connecting with the Staunton and Wytheville line at that point.

Leaves Staunton Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 9½ A.M., and arrives at Lexington same days at 6 P.M. (daily in summer), and leaves Lexington Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays, at 3½ A.M., breakfasts at the Natural Bridge, and arrives at Salem at 7 P.M. same days. Leaves Salem Thursdays, Saturdays, and Mondays, at 4 A.M., and arrives at Wytheville same days at 6 P.M. Leaves Wytheville Fridays, Sundays, and Tuesdays, at 2 A.M., and arrives at Bluntsville, Tenn., same days at 10 P.M. Leaves Bluntsville Saturdays, Mondays, and Wednesdays, at 4 A.M., and arrives at Knoxville, Tenn., same days at 10 P.M.

Leaves Staunton Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 4 A.M., via Scottsville to Richmond by packet-boats, and arrives next day at 7 A.M. in Richmond.

Leaves Staunton daily, at 10 A.M., arrives at Charlottesville at 6 P.M., and next morning to Richmond by railroad, to early dinner.

Leaves White Sulphur Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, arrives at Charleston next days at 6 P.M., and the following days to Guyandotte to dinner.

Extra coaches furnished at all points, and a liberal amount of baggage allowed each passenger.

Has for sale a large assortment of Miscellaneous, Medical, Law, Theological, School and Blank Books, and a general variety of English, French, and American Stationery of the best quality, including Letter, Cap, Note, and other papers, at wholesale and retail.

He has on hand, or can supply at short notice, all or any of the books and maps named in the following pages.

Mitchell's School Series has been wholly or partly introduced into the Public and Private Schools of the principal Cities and Towns of the United States.

An easy Introduction to the Study of Geography; designed for the Instruction of Children in Schools and Families; Illustrated by 120 Engravings and 14 coloured Maps. By S. Augustus Mitchell. Price, 38 cents.

This work has been introduced into the Public Schools of Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, New Orleans, St. Louis, Louisville, Cincinnati, Pittsburg, and many other cities and towns in the United States, and is in general use in the Private Schools throughout the whole country.

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The whole is so arranged, that the maps, the description of each country, and the questions dependent on them, are placed generally on the same page, or on pages directly opposite, enabling pupils to refer readily from one to the other, rendering the use of two separate books unnecessary, and affording the required amount of instruction in a more portable and convenient form.

This publication corresponds, in style of embellishment, colouring, arrangement of lessons, and general scope of composition, to the other Geographical Works of Mr. Mitchell, so as to form a connecting link in the Series in progress, of which the Primary Geography, the School Geography and Atlas, and the Ancient Geography and Atlas, already published, form a part. Price, 75 cents.

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We have examined "Mitchell's School Geography," and the Atlas that accompanies it, with considerable care, and must give it the preference to any work of the kind with which we are acquainted. Its merits are numerous,—the definitions are remarkably plain and concise,—the exercises are copious and important, and the descriptive department is luminous and correct. The divisions of the American Continent are represented and described as they really exist at the present time, and the gross mis-statements generally found in school Geographies are corrected. The typographical execution is uncommonly neat and distinct. Indeed the Atlas is a model of the kind, and actually teems with information. The Geography is embellished with some hundreds of neat and well-executed engravings, which illustrate and greatly enhance the value of the work.

At a meeting of the Board, the Committee of Supplies offered the following resolution:

Resolved, That "Mitchell's School Geography and Atlas,"—last edition—be introduced as a class-book into the Public Schools of the First School District.

The following Teachers have recommended the Geographical Works in strong terms.

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Sulphate of lime,	31.680	grains.
Sulphate of magnesia,	8.241	"
Sulphate of soda,	4.050	"
Carbonate of lime,	1.530	"
Carbonate of magnesia,	0.506	"
Chloride of magnesium,	0.071	"
Chloride of calcium,	0.010	"
Chloride of sodium,	0.226	"
Protosulphate of iron,	0.069	"
Sulphate of alumine,	0.012	"
Earthy phosphates, a trace.
Azotized organic matter blended with a large proportion of sulphur,	about 5 grains.
Iodine combined with sodium or magnesium.

Sulphuretted hydrogen,	0.66 to 1.30	cubic	inches.
Nitrogen,	1.88	"	"
Oxygen,	0.19	"	"
Carbonic acid,	3.67	"	"

	In 100 cubic inches.
Sulphate of lime,	14.233
Sulphate of magnesia,	3.107
Sulphate of soda,	1.400
Carbonate of lime,	1.166
Chloride of sodium,	0.037
Chloride of magnesium,	0.680
Chloride of calcium,	0.010
Sesquioxide of iron,	0.320
Organic matter in small quantities.
Iodine, a mere trace.

Carbonic acid,	46.10	cubic	inches.
Nitrogen,	2.57	"	"
Oxygen,	.20	"	"
Sulphuretted hydrogen, a trace, too small to be mentioned.

Nitrogen,		62.5
Carbonic acid,		37.5

The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Guide to the Virginia Springs

A GUIDE
TO
THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS:

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE

Saline substances in general,	12	to	15	grains,
Earthy substances,	18	"	24	"
Iron,	½	"	1	grain.

1.	Sulphate of lime,	36.755	grains.
2.	Sulphate of magnesia,	7.883	"
3.	Sulphate of soda,	9.682	"
4.	Carbonate of lime,	4.445	"
5.	Carbonate of magnesia,	1.434	"
6.	Chloride of magnesium,	0.116	"
7.	Chloride of sodium,	0.683	"
8.	Chloride of calcium,	0.025	"
9.	Peroxide of iron derived from protosulphate,	0.042	"
10.	An azotized organic matter blended with sulphur, about,	.004	"
11.	Earthy phosphates, a trace.
12.	Iodine, a trace.

Sulphuretted Hydrogen,	1.10 to 1.50	cubic	inches.
Nitrogen,	2.05	"	"
Oxygen,	0.27	"	"
Carbonic acid,	5.75	"	"

Sulphuretted hydrogen,	4.54	cubic	inches.
Carbonic acid,	8.75	"	"
Nitrogen,	4.25	"	"

		Miles.		Miles from Washington.
From	Washington to Acquia Creek Landing,	45
To	Fredericksburg,	14		59
"	Junction,	37		96
"	Louisa, C. H.,	37		133
"	Gordonsville,	13		146
"	Charlottesville,	21		167
"	M'Ghee's,	7	½	174	½
"	Cox's,	7		181	½
"	Brooksville,	4	½	186
"	Mountain Top,	4		190
"	Waynesboro,	4		194
"	Staunton,	11		205
"	Buffalo Gap,	10		215
"	Oakland House,	10		225
"	Deerfield,	2		227
"	Lange's,	2		229
"	Cloverdale Hotel,	6		235
"	Bath Alum Springs,	15		250
"	Warm Springs,	5		255
"	Hot Springs,	5		260
"	Callahan's,	20		280
"	White Sulphur Springs,	15		295
"	Lewisburg,	9		304
"	Blue Sulphur Springs,	13		317

		Miles.		Miles from Washington.
Baltimore to Harper's Ferry,		82
Washington to Harper's Ferry,		104
To	Charlestown,	10		114
"	Winchester,	22		136
"	Newtown,	8		144
"	Strasburg,	10		154
"	Woodstock,	11	½	165	½
"	Mt. Jackson,	13		178	½
"	New Market,	7		185	½
"	Spartapolis,	6	½	192
"	Harrisonburg,	11		203
"	Mt. Crawford,	8		211
"	Mt. Sidney,	7		218
"	Staunton,	10		228
Thence as in No. 1, to the White Sulphur, &c.
Or from Harrisonburg, via Augusta Springs, to the Warm Springs,		60

		Miles.	Miles from Richmond.
To	Atley's,	9
"	Peak's,	6	15
"	Hanover Court-House,	3	18
"	Wickham's,	2	20
"	Junction,	7	27
"	Noel's,	5	32
"	Hewlett's,	4	36
"	Beaver-dam,	4	40
"	Bumpass's,	6	46
"	Frederick Hall,	5	51
"	Tolersville,	6	57
"	Louisa Court-House,	6	63
"	Trevilian's,	5	68
"	Gordonsville,	9	77
"	Lindsay's,	5	82
"	Cobham,	2	84
"	Campbell's,	3	87
"	Keswick,	4	91
"	Shadwell,	3	94
"	Charlottesville,	4	98
Thence as in No. 1 by stage to White Sulphur.

		Miles.	Miles from Richmond.
To	Manakintown,	17
"	Jude's Ferry,	5	22
"	Michaux's,	9	31
"	Cedar Point,	2	33
"	Jefferson,	6	39
"	Cartersville,	8	47
"	Columbia,	10	57
"	New Canton,	9	66
"	Scottsville,	13	79
"	Rockfish,	12	91
"	Warminster,	8	99
"	Hardwicksville,	4	103
"	Tye River,	5	108
"	Bent Creek,	9	117
"	Staple's Mills,	12	129
"	Lynchburg,	17	146
"	Natural Bridge,	38	184
"	Dibbrel's Springs,	18	202
"	Clifton Forge,	10	212
"	Covington,	13	225
"	Callahan's,	5	230
"	White Sulphur,	15	245

		Miles.	Miles from Lynchburg.
To	New London,	10
"	Liberty,	15	25
"	Buford's,	14	39
"	Fincastle,	14	53
"	Scott's,	18	71
"	Mountain House,	7	78
"	Sweet Springs,	9	87
"	Red Sweet,	1	88
"	White Sulphur,	16	104

		Miles.	Miles from Staunton.
There are two routes, one of which is to Greenville,		12
To	Fairfield,	11
"	Lexington,	12	35
The other is to Middlebrook,		11
To	Brownsburg,	12
"	Lexington,	12	35
"	Rockbridge Alum,	17	52
From	Rockbridge Alum to Bath Alum Springs,	17

Counties.	Whites.	Free Negroes.	Slaves.	Total.
Barbour,	8671	221	113	9005
Braxton,	4123		89	4212
Boone,	3054		183	3237
Brooke,	4923	100	31	5054
Cabell,	5904	6	389	6299
Carroll,	5726	29	154	5909
Doddridge,	2639	80	31	2750
Fayette,	3782	17	156	3955
Floyd,	6000	15	443	6458
Grayson,	6142	36	499	6677
Greenbrier,	8549	156	1317	10022
Giles,	5859	54	657	6570
Gilmer,	3403		72	3475
Hancock,	4040	7	3	4050
Harrison,	11214	26	488	11728
Jackson,	6480	11	53	6544
Kanawha,	12002	211	3140	15353
Lee,	9440	40	787	10267
Lewis,	9621	42	368	10031
Logan,	3533		87	3620
Marion,	10438	20	94	10552
Marshall,	10050	39	49	10138
Mason,	6843	49	647	7539
Mercer,	4018	27	177	4222
Monongalia,	12092	119	176	12387
Monroe,	9062	81	1061	10204
Montgomery,	6822	66	1471	8359
Nicholas,	3889	1	73	3963
Ohio,	17609	235	164	18008
Preston,	11574	47	87	11708
Pocahontas,	3308	23	267	3598
Pulaski,	3613	34	1471	5118
Putnam,	4693	10	632	5335
Raleigh,	1735	7	23	1765
Randolph,	5003	39	201	5243
Ritchie,	3886		16	3902
Russell,	10867	70	982	11919
Scott,	9325	31	473	9829
Smyth,	6901	197	1064	8162

Counties.	Whites.	Free Negroes.	Slaves.	Total.
Alleghany,	2763	58	694	3515
Augusta,	19024	533	5053	24610
Bath,	2436	43	947	3426
Berkeley,	9566	249	1956	11771
Botetourt,	10749	423	3736	14908
Clarke,	3615	123	3614	7352
Frederick,	12769	912	2294	15975
Hampshire,	12389	214	1433	14036
Hardy,	7930	353	1260	9543
Highland,	2853	10	364	3227
Jefferson,	10476	540	4341	15357
Morgan,	3431	3	123	3557
Page,	6332	311	957	7600
Pendleton,	5443	30	322	5795
Roanoke,	5813	154	2510	8477
Rockbridge,	11484	364	4197	16045
Rockingham,	17498	465	2331	20294
Shenandoah,	12595	262	911	13768
Warren,	4492	367	1748	6607
	161,658	5414	38,791	205,863

Counties.	Whites.	Free Negroes.	Slaves.	Total.
Albemarle,	11876	586	13338	25800
Amelia,	2794	157	6819	9770
Amherst,	6353	393	5953	12699
Appomattox,	4210	184	4799	9193
Bedford,	13556	463	10061	24080
Brunswick,	4895	543	8456	13894
Buckingham,	5426	250	8161	13837
Campbell,	11538	841	10866	23245
Charlotte,	4605	362	8988	13955
Culpeper,	5111	488	6683	12282
Cumberland,	3083	339	6329	9751
Dinwiddie,	10985	3253	11468	25706
Faquier,	9875	643	10350	20868
Franklin,	11638	66	5726	17430
Fluvanna,	4533	217	4737	9487
Greene,	2667	34	1699	4400
Goochland,	3854	653	5845	10352
Halifax,	11006	504	14462	25972
Henry,	5324	208	3340	8872
Loudon,	15081	1354	5641	22076
Louisa,	6423	404	9864	16691
Lunenburg,	4310	195	7187	11692
Madison,	4458	149	4724	9331
Mecklenburg,	7256	912	12429	20597
Nelson,	6478	138	6142	12758
Nottoway,	2251	136	6050	8437
Orange,	3962	184	5921	10067
Patrick,	7197	88	2324	9609
Pittsylvania,	15263	735	12798	28796
Prince Edward,	4177	488	7192	11857
Powhatan,	2532	364	5282	8178
Rappahannock,	5642	296	3844	9782
	218,359	15,627	237,478	471,464

Counties.	Whites.	Free Negroes.	Slaves.	Total.
Alexandria,	7218	1408	1382	10008
Accomack,	9742	3161	4987	17890
Charles City,	1664	772	2764	5200
Caroline,	6892	903	10661	18456
Chesterfield,	8402	468	8616	17486
Essex,	3025	419	6762	10206
Elizabeth City,	2341	97	2148	4586
Fairfax,	6835	597	3250	10682
Greensville,	1731	123	3785	5639
Gloucester,	4290	680	5557	10527
Hanover,	6541	219	8393	15153
Henrico,	23732	3663	16042	43437
Isle of Wight,	4724	1234	3395	9353
James City,	1489	663	1868	4020
King George,	2303	265	3403	5971
King & Queen,	4094	461	5764	10319
King William,	2702	346	5731	8779
Lancaster,	1805	263	2640	4708
Mathews,	3644	147	2923	6714
Middlesex,	1903	149	2342	4394
Nansemond,	5425	2143	4715	12283
New Kent,	2221	433	3410	6064
Norfolk,	4907	823	4354	10084
Northumberland,	3072	519	3755	7346
Northampton,	3105	745	3648	7498
Princess Anne,	4280	259	3130	7669
Prince George,	2670	518	4408	7596
Prince William,	5081	550	2498	8129
Richmond,	3462	709	2277	6448
Stafford,	4415	318	3311	8044
Southampton,	5971	1795	5755	13521
Spottsylvania,	6903	527	7481	14911
Surry,	2215	985	2479	5679
Sussex,	3086	742	5992	9820
Warwick,	598	43	905	1546
Westmoreland,	3410	1113	3557	8080
York,	1825	454	2181	4460
Norfolk City,	9113	912	4295	14320
Petersburg City,	"	"	"	"

		Miles.	Miles from Guyandotte.
To	Charleston,	48
"	Salines,	5	53
"	Falls of Kanawha,	30	83
"	Gauley Bridge,	5	88
"	Hawk's Nest,	8	96
"	Locust Lane,	2	98
"	Blue Sulphur,	40	138
"	Lewisburg,	13	151
"	White Sulphur,	9	160

From	White Sulphur to Salt Sulphur,	26
From	White Sulphur to Red Sulphur,	43
From	Red Sulphur to Blue Sulphur,	33
From	Scottsville to Brooksville,	25
To	Staunton,	19	44
From	Waynesboro to Greenville,	17
From	Winchester to Jordan's White Sulphur Springs,	6
From	Winchester to Capon Springs,	22
From	Lexington to Covington,	41
From	Winchester to Romney,	43
To	Clarksburg,	111	154
"	Parkersburg,	83	237
From	Fredericksburg to Richmond,	62
From	Richmond to Petersburg	22
From	Staunton to Parkersburg,	234

DISTRICTS.	Whites.	Free Negroes.	Slaves.	Total.
Total of Tide-water Dist.,	183181	30156	172315	385652
Total of Piedmont Dist.,	218359	15627	237478	471464
Total of Valley Dist.,	161658	5414	38791	205863
Total of Trans-Alleg. Dist.,	330951	2709	24442	358102
Grand Total,	894,149	53,906	473,026	1,421,081

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