*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75494 ***
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in the original text.
Equal signs “=” before and after a word or phrase indicate =bold=
in the original text.
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[Illustration: =FRONTISPIECE=]
_She stretcheth out her hand to the Poor.—
_She looketh well to the ways of her Household._
_Provˢ. 31 Ch._
Frontispiece to the Work Woman’s Guide.—Pubᵈ. by Stephen Marshall & Cᵒ.
THE
WORKWOMAN’S GUIDE,
CONTAINING
INSTRUCTIONS TO THE INEXPERIENCED IN CUTTING OUT AND COMPLETING
THOSE ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL, &c., WHICH ARE USUALLY
MADE AT HOME; ALSO, EXPLANATIONS ON UPHOLSTERY,
STRAW PLATTING, BONNET-MAKING, KNITTING, &c.
BY A LADY.
“_METHOD SHORTENS LABOUR._”
LONDON:
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT:
THOMAS EVANS, COLMORE ROW, BIRMINGHAM.
1838.
BIRMINGHAM:
PRINTED BY THOMAS EVANS, COLMORE ROW.
PREFACE.
“But to know
That which before us lies in daily life;
Is the prime wisdom.”
MILTON.
The Author of the following pages has been encouraged to hope, that,
in placing them, after much deliberation, in the hands of a printer,
she is tendering an important and acceptable, however humble, service
to persons of her own sex, who, in any condition of life, are engaged,
by duty, or inclination, in cutting out wearing apparel in a family,
or for their poorer neighbours. She trusts, in particular, that
Clergymen’s Wives, Young Married Women, School-mistresses, and Ladies’
Maids may find, in the “Workwoman’s Guide,” a fast and serviceable
friend.
The patterns, which comprise all the necessary parts of clothing in
great variety, to suit both rich and poor, have been some years in
collecting, and are given as the most generally approved shapes and
sizes in present use. Economy and neatness of appearance have been
equally consulted in choosing them, and all have been successfully
tried. In selecting and arranging the Infant’s wardrobe, the comfort of
the little wearers and ease of dressing, have been accurately studied.
Interested by the feelings of a Mother in this division of her book,
the Author has worked at it with especial zeal and assiduity, and
submits it with particular confidence.
To assist the unpractised in understanding the written descriptions,
almost every pattern is likewise drawn twice (see Plates), so as not
only to represent its appearance when cut out, but also when made up.
The difficulty of describing irregular and complicated shapes has
been obviated by enclosing each in a square, marked with a scale of
nails; by which means, even sleeves, collars, capes, and bonnets can
be cut out with unfailing precision. In a charity school, for which
the Author was much interested, and for the use of which, both her
collection of patterns was originally begun, and her drawings made,
girls from ten to sixteen years of age were in the constant habit of
cutting out correctly and easily, with no other guidance than the
drawings. To sketch the pattern on a slate, and to cut it out first in
paper, was all the facility afforded to, or needed by, beginners.
The Reader, as she advances, will see that this work is not confined to
the simply cutting out and making up articles of dress, but likewise
includes the important subjects of House Linen and Upholstery, and that
the minor branches of knitting and straw platting have their places.
Directions which, it is trusted, will be found useful, respecting
various other points of domestic industry, are not omitted.
On the general plan of the work, and the motives which have induced
the writer to venture it before the Public, she need not, perhaps, say
more. A few words are near her heart, which she does not resist the
temptation of adding.
A woman, who in the upper classes of society, has taken her place at
the head of a family, has undertaken a high and responsible situation;
but one, in which, by daily attention to certain humble details, she
can essentially serve the welfare of some who are dear to her, and of
many who are dependent on her.
The Author, as an Englishwoman, reflects with pride upon the number
of her country women, whom the gifts of nature, and a brilliant or
careful education enables to grace their place in society. She believes
that very many of them are further qualified, as far as good will
and natural intelligence can go, to discharge those humbler, but not
less honourable, parts of their calling, to which she has alluded,
but are deterred from applying to them (or much embarrassed if they
do), from finding that, whilst they are proficients in many beautiful
accomplishments, and not without cultivation in the more solid parts
of information, they are yet mere novices in other unostentatious
attainments, that have become indispensable to their domestic
efficiency. The complete remedy for this inconvenience can only be
found in making some further knowledge of domestic arts and economy a
prominent part of the education of our daughters; home and school must
both be called upon to contribute. Amongst the arts in question, the
homely one of cutting out is entitled to rank high, for subserviency
to comfort and elegance, as well as to economy, whenever this is an
object, and in what fortune can it wisely be neglected? It is one which
may seem peculiarly fitted to be taught in schools, by the conveniency
of the means for teaching, by its cleanliness, and, if the Author may
be allowed to say so, by its intellectual character, since to cut
out well, it is necessary to think, and indeed the art, continually
depending upon exact measurements, proportions and even correct
diagrams, or figures, must be considered as a sort of unassuming
household mathematics. Dress, it seems, has of late been admitted by
philosophical critics to the dignity of a fine art: it both requires
and cultivates taste, and the consideration of a pleasing effect and
air in dress is first applied in the cutting out.
No one who has not been a frequent visitor in the homes of the poor,
is aware of the extravagance and waste usual among women of a humble
class, arising from their total ignorance in matters of cutting out
and needle-work, nor how much instruction they want on those points,
even to the making of a petticoat and a pinafore. The same ignorance
and unskilfulness, and the same consequent waste of laborious and
scanty earnings is common among our female household servants; who, by
putting out their clothes to dress-makers, pay nearly half as much for
the making up as for the materials. The direct saving of expense upon
articles of dress, were they qualified to work for themselves, would,
with all persons in these conditions of life, be an important annual
item. But the indirect and further benefit would be of infinitely more
account. The thrifty disposition, the regularity and neatness, the
ideas of order and management, inspired by the conscious ability and
successful exertion, in one leading branch of good housewifery, cannot
be too highly prized or diligently cultivated; for the result is moral.
The orderly house but reflects the orderly mind; the humble wife and
mother, whose active indefatigable hand, silently executing her careful
ingenious thought, improves the comforts, the visible respectability,
and real condition of her husband and children, is mistress of a secret
for blending her best and tenderest affections with the employment of
every day: she contrives judiciously what she constantly and earnestly
meditates, and finds no weariness in the labour to which strength
continually flows from a deep fountain in her heart.
Personal investigation alone can satisfy those ladies who interest
themselves in the welfare of the poor, how useful a kindness they would
exercise in making efficient systematic instruction, in these arts, an
ordinary and important part of school business.
Could the Author hope that the little work, in which she has
endeavoured to arrange the elements of cutting out progressively,
would ever be admitted as a manual in the village school-room, a
cherished wish of her heart would be gratified; in the mean time, she
will be glad to think, that she may have saved some wives and mothers,
entering upon their arduous vocations, a part of the inconveniences
experienced by herself, although accounted a tolerable workwoman in the
general acceptation of the term, when, on assuming the former of these
characters, she was compelled to rely on her own resources.
The Author must here acknowledge her obligations to that valuable
little work “Cottage Comforts;” also to the “Teacher’s Assistant
in Needlework” and “Knitting,” and a few others, for some useful
suggestions.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON NEEDLEWORK.
Comprising Plain Stitches, Fancy Stitches, Marking,
Darning, Braiding, &c. General Rules for completing Work.
CHAPTER II. A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON PURCHASING GOODS.
CHAPTER III. GENERAL RULES FOR CUTTING OUT.
CHAPTER IV. THE WORK-BOX.
CHAPTER V. ON BABY LINEN, WITH SCALES FOR THE CLOTHES OF
OLDER CHILDREN. Caps; Cockades; Rosettes; Infants’
Open Shirts; first Flannel Gowns; Flannel Bands;
Night-gowns; Pinafores; Petticoats; Robes; Receiver;
Shawl; Flannel Cloak; Child’s Bib; Infants’ Pelisses and
Cloaks; Infant’s Hood; Cots; Cribs; Cradles; Basket;
Pincushion.
CHAPTER VI. LINEN FOR MEN, WOMEN, GIRLS, AND BOYS.
Women’s Shifts; Child’s Shifts; Child’s Trowsers;
Girl’s Trowsers; Trowsers for Girls or Boys; Leglets;
Women’s Drawers; Turkish Trowsers; Men’s Drawers;
Women’s Night Jackets; Night-gowns; Flannel Waistcoat
for a Lady; Boys’ Waistcoats; Man’s Under Waistcoat;
Boy’s Upper Waistcoat; Child’s Night Vest; Child’s
Day Vest; Bathing Gown; Women’s Night-caps; Caps for
poor Women; Caps for Servants; Caps for School girls;
Bathing Cap; Dressing-gowns for Men; Dressing-gowns for
Women; Cloak Dressing-gown; Dressing Jacket; Flannel
Petticoats; Pockets; Frills; Cuffs; Tidy Cuffs; Mourning
Cuffs; Aprons; Dress Aprons; Working Aprons; Apron
Pockets; Grocers’ Aprons; Cooking Apron; Pantry Apron;
Gentleman’s Working Apron; Neck-tie; Scarfs; Women’s
Stays; Nursing Stays; Men’s Stays or Belts; Children’s
Stays; Bustles; Veils; Long and short Sleeves for
Children; Long and short Sleeves for grown-up Persons;
Old Woman’s Sleeve; Boy’s Sleeve; Shoulder-pieces;
Capes; Collars; Riding Collar; Habit-shirt; Chemisette;
School-girl’s Tippet; Petticoats; Nursing Petticoat;
Gowns; General observations on Colours; On the making
up and choosing Dresses; General observations on
cutting out Dresses; Bodies of Gowns—high, low, full,
plain; On trimming Bodies of low Dresses; Nursing
Gowns; Children’s Frocks and Tunics; Boy’s Surtout;
Child’s Pelisses; Day-caps; Morning Caps; Bonnet Caps;
Cap for an Old Lady; Caps for the Society of Friends;
Lappets; Widow’s Cap; Velvet or Silk Cap; Care of the
Lady’s Wardrobe; To fold up Dresses and Frocks; General
observations on Packing; Care of the Gentleman’s
Wardrobe; Mourning and Dress at Funerals; Pinafores
and Saccarines for Children; Housemaid’s Pinafore;
School-girl’s Pinafore; Surgeon’s Pinafore; Waggoner’s
Smock-frock; Shirts for the Labouring Classes;
Gentlemen’s Shirts; Gentlemen’s Shirt Fronts; Boys’
Shirt Fronts; Gentlemen’s Stocks; Clergyman’s Dress; The
Cassock; The Gown; The Surplice; The Sash; Scarf; Bands;
The Clerk’s Gown; Children’s Bonnets; Hats and Caps for
Boys; Travelling Caps; Lady’s Riding Cap; Working Man’s
Cap; Women’s Bonnets; Old Women’s Bonnets; Bonnet for a
Member of the Society of Friends; School-girl’s Bonnet;
Oiled Silk Hood; Calèche; Women’s Cloaks; Mantelet or
short Cloak; Carriage Cloak; Old Woman’s Cloak and
Hood; School-girl’s Cape or Cloak; Boy’s Cloak; Shawls;
Shawl for a Member of the Society of Friends; Quilted
Shawl; Mourning Shawl; Spencers for Children; Tippet
and Sleeves; Neck Handkerchiefs; Pocket Handkerchiefs;
Bridal Favours; Men’s Slippers; Ladies’ Slippers;
Travelling or Over-shoes; Half-slippers; Carriage
Slippers; Babies’ Shoes; On covering Shoes; Gloves; On
Down and Fur; Muffs; Boas; Tippets; Operas or Ruffs; To
clean Fur and Down; To preserve Fur.
CHAPTER VII. HOUSE LINEN. Division into Bed-room, Table
and Pantry, Housemaid’s, Kitchen, and Stable Linen;
Number required, kinds to be chosen, size and price of
each; Sheets; Pillow-slips; Towels; Toilette or Dressing
Table Covers; Table Cloths; Dinner Napkins; Doyleys;
Knife-box Cloths; Pantry Knife Cloths; Pantry Dresser
Cloths; Plate-basket Cloth; Pantry China Cloths; Pantry
Glass Cloths; Pantry Lamp Cloths; Waiting Gloves;
Housemaid’s Dusters; Scouring Flannels; Paint Cloths;
Chamber Bottle Cloths; Chamber Bucket Cloths; Clothes
Bags; Kitchen Table Cloths; Dresser Cloths; Roller
Cloths; Dusters; Tea Cloths; Jelly Bags; Ham Bags;
Cheese Cloths; Stable Linen; General observations on
Linen; On marking House Linen; Linen Press; Washing
Books—Nursery Washing Book; Lady’s Washing Book;
Gentleman’s Washing Book; House Linen Washing Book.
CHAPTER VIII. UPHOLSTERY. General observations;
Bedsteads—all their parts and the different kinds;
Hints on putting up Beds; On furnishing Beds; General
observations on the choice and arrangement of Drapery
for Beds; On the Heads and Tops of Beds; Footboards;
The Half-tester; French Pole Bed; French Arrow Bed;
French Bed; French Block Bed; French Canopy Bed; Turn-up
Bed; Press Bed; Stump Bed; Trestle Bed; Hanging Bed or
Cot; Mattresses; Beds; Bolsters and Pillows; Blankets;
Counterpanes; Watch-Pockets; Carpets; List of different
kinds; General observations on making up Carpets; Window
Curtains—Various kinds of Drapery for Windows; Curtains
for a Passage or Church Window; Muslin Curtains; Half
Curtains; Full Curtains; Rod Curtain; Window Blinds;
Chair, Sofa, and other Covers; Divan; Footstools and
Hassocks; Church Basses; Church Seats; Table Covers;
Screens.
CHAPTER IX. COVERS, CASES, &C. Night-gown Bag;
Travelling Dressing-case or Tidy; Glove Cases; Pocket
Handkerchief Case; Shoe or Brush and Comb Bags; Shoe
Bags; Mat; Boot Bags; Nursery Bag; Book Covers; Trunk
Cover; Knife or Fork Case; Card Case; Candlestick Case;
Nosegay Case; Wool Case; Housewife; Yard Measure;
Pincushions; Bags; Needle Case; Work Basket; Travelling
Bag; School-girl’s Badge; Carriage Case or Portfolio;
Travelling Portfolio; Seaman’s or Traveller’s Case;
Gentleman’s Travelling Dressing-Case; Watch Pocket;
Invalid’s Chair.
CHAPTER X. RECEIPTS. Marking Ink; Red Marking Ink; To
remove Marking Ink; Salts of Lemon; To take out Ink
without Salts of Lemon; Bleaching Liquid; To remove
Stains; Scouring Drops; To remove Grease; To take out
Mildew; To take out Iron-moulds; To remove Paint Spots;
To clean Silks and Cottons; To restore scorched Linen;
To clean Calico Furniture; To clean Chintz; To scour
Carpets; To wash Silk Handkerchiefs; To wash coloured
Muslins, &c.; To restore the colour of Linen; To wash
China-crape Scarfs, &c.; To wash Blonde; To wash Lace;
To wash Kid Gloves; To clean white Satin Shoes; To keep
Blonde, &c.; To dye Gloves like York-Tan or Limerick; To
dye white Gloves purple; Wash for Leather Gloves; To dye
Cotton a Nankeen colour; To dye the Linings of Furniture
buff or salmon colour; To clean Gold and Silver Lace;
To preserve Linen from Moths; To preserve Woollens and
Blankets; To preserve Furs and Woollens from Moths; To
varnish old Straw or Chip Hats; To raise the surface of
Velvet; To make Starch; To make Court Plaister; Lavender
Water; Eau de Cologne; Powder for Infants’ Dust Bags;
Pot-Pourri; Scent Bags; To make Shoes Waterproof;
Remedy against Fleas; Remedy against Bugs; To destroy
Bugs; To destroy Flies; General observations on Washing
and Ironing; List of Articles required in a Laundry;
Washing; Hanging to dry; Mangling and Ironing; Clear
Starching; Gaufiering.
CHAPTER XI. KNITTING. Knitting Pins; Materials for
Knitting; Knit Stitches; Casting on Stitches; Common
Knitting Stitch; Dutch common Knitting; Turn or Seam
Stitch; Widening; Narrowing; Slipping a Stitch;
Finishing off; Welting; Binding; Fancy Stitches; Double
Knitting; Open Hem Stitch; Honey-comb Stitch; French
Stitch; Fantail Stitch; Network Stitch; Open Cross
Stitch; Berlin Wire Stitch; Plain open Stitch; Crowsfoot
Stitch; Chain Stitch; Embossed Hexagon Stitch; Common
Plat; Elastic Rib; Rough-cast or Huckaback Stitch;
Embossed Diamond Stitch; Ladder Stitch; Imitation Double
Knitting; Herring-bone Stitch; Purse Stitch; Lace wave
Stitch; Herring-bone Bag Stitch; Improved Open Stitch;
Shawl Pattern; Cross-stitch Pattern; Curb Stitch;
Ribbed Stitch; Diamond Stitch; Raised French Stitch;
Two coloured Chain Stitch; Rug Stitch; The Nondescript;
A New Stitch; Muffatee Stitch; Knit Fringes; Fringe and
Border; Stockings—General proportions for Stockings;
Scale for Stockings; Socks; Garters; Socks for Babies;
Babies’ Socks or Slippers; Child’s long Sock; Child’s
first Stocking; The Ribbed Boot; The Over shoe; The
Snow-heel; Little Night Boots; Socks for Invalids;
Knit Boots; Scale for Knit Boots; Night Socks; Knit
Sole; Knee Cap; Knit Gloves; Driving Mits; Mittens for
Babies; Mittens; Armlets; Muffatees; Frill or Ruff;
Scarf; Comforter; Handkerchief; Knit Habit-shirt;
Knit Half-handkerchief; Honey-comb Shawl; A Tippet; A
Purse; A Baby’s Knitted Cap; Baby’s Hood; Gentleman’s
Night-cap; Knitted Bags; Kettle Holders; Knit Open
Braid; Mats; Coverlet; Blankets; Knit Cotton Doyleys.
CHAPTER XII. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON STRAW PLATTING.
Apparatus required; Bleaching Box; Mill for the Plat;
Bonnet Stand; Box Iron; Dyeing Kettle; Straw Splitter;
On preparing Straw; On Bleaching Straw; Dyeing Straw
black; Directions for Platting; Plats; Plats of Three;
Plat of Four; Angular Plat of Four; Plat of Five; Plats
of Six; Plats of Seven; Plats of Eight; Plats of Nine;
Plats of Ten; Plats of Eleven; Plat of Twelve; Plats
of Thirteen; Plat of Fourteen; Plat of Fifteen; Plat
of Sixteen; Hollow Spiral Straw work; The Tuscan Hat;
English Leghorn Plat; Bonnets; Receipts for Stiffening;
On cleaning Bonnets; Turning Bonnets; Hats; Mats; To
make Bobbin Tape.
[Illustration: PLATE 1.
Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6
Fig 7 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 12
Fig 8 Fig 11 Fig 13]
PART FIRST.
CHAPTER I.
A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON NEEDLEWORK.
“But here the needle plies its busy task.”—COWPER.
See that the edges of the work are perfectly even before turning
down, which should be done to a thread, unless the work is not cut
straight-wise.
The needle and cotton should be adapted to the quality of the work,
and when the latter is very fine, rovings taken from it, and used as
thread, are very good for the purpose.
The cotton should be always worked the way it unwinds from the reel,
for this reason, the needle had better be threaded before cutting off
the cotton.
The thimble should be worn on the second finger of the right hand. The
needle, while being threaded, is held in the left hand, and the cotton
in the right.
The scissors, when used, should have the thumb placed in the upper
ring, and the third finger in the lower: they should also be held with
the sharper point uppermost.
When work is very strong, the thread used in making it up should be
strengthened by waxing.
Thread is much more durable than cotton, and it should therefore be
used in working all kinds of linen.
Cottons are better for calico, muslin, &c.
All kinds of threads and cottons, especially when coloured, should be
kept (when not in use) wrapped up in brown paper, as the air is apt to
decay them.
Sewing silks should be wrapped up in soft wash-leather.
Buttons, hooks and eyes, tapes, &c. are all better kept folded up, as
they are apt to tarnish and decay.
Needles, scissors, and all kinds of steel, injure materially when
exposed much to the air, especially at the sea coast.
HEMMING.
Turn down the raw edge twice very evenly, and flatten it with the thumb
and finger, taking care to arrange the corners nicely.
In _beginning_ to hem, point your needle from your chest towards the
right, and after drawing the thread nearly through, stroke the end
under the hem, so as to keep it fast without the assistance of a knot,
which is always untidy. When your needleful is used, cut off the end,
leaving just sufficient to stroke under the hem. In fastening off
effectually, sew several stitches close together, and cut off the
thread closely. Hem from right to left.
SEWING AND FELLING.
The work for sewing is thus prepared: the two selvages are placed
together, or if there are no selvages, the raw edge of one piece is
turned down once, and the edge of the other piece is turned down double
the width, and then half the width is turned back again for the fell.
The two pieces are pinned or basted together, with the parts turned
down face to face, and held firmly between the finger and thumb: the
thread is fastened on by pressing the end carefully into the seam with
the needle, and working over it. The stitches should be just deep
enough to keep the parts strongly together; they should also lie in a
slanting direction, at even distances from each other. When the seam
is sewn, the finger should be placed under it, while the thumb nail
flattens it down. Turn the work on the other side, and fell the seam
just the same as in hemming.
MANTUA-MAKERS’ HEMMING.
This is often used instead of sewing, for bags and sleeves that have
no linings, or skirts of petticoats, &c., and the work is prepared
as follows. Lay the raw edge of one piece a little below that of the
other, then turn the upper edge over the lower, twice, as in hemming,
and fell it securely down.
STITCHING.
Having observed that your work is quite even, turn down a piece to
stitch to, count twelve or fourteen threads from the edge, and draw a
thread to stitch upon. In stitching, take two threads back, and pass
the needle so as to come out from under two before. Join on a fresh
piece of thread by passing the needle between the edges, and bringing
it out where the last stitch left off.
GATHERING.
Observe that the part going to be gathered is cut evenly and straight.
Divide the piece into half, and then into quarters, putting pins at the
divisions as marks; do the same with the piece to which it is to be
gathered, by which means the fulness will be equal.
Begin about twelve or fourteen threads from the top, take up three
threads on your needle and miss four, more or less according to the
fulness required: when a quarter is done, draw the gatherings pretty
closely, and secure the thread by twisting it round a pin; then stroke
the gathers nicely down, one at a time, with a large needle, so as to
make them lie closely and evenly together. Afterwards, untwist the
thread from the pin, and loosen the gathers till you have made the
quarter gathered, correspond with the quarter to which it is to be
sewn. Fasten the thread again firmly to a pin, and sew the gathers
strongly on, one at a time, letting the stitches take a slanting
direction, so as to slip between the gathers.
RUNNING.
The work for running must be prepared by putting the two edges exactly
together, if they are both selvages; but if they are raw edges and
afterwards to be felled, one raw edge must be turned down once, and the
other laid upon it a few threads from the top. It should be run about
six threads below the turned down part. Take three threads and leave
three, and back-stitch occasionally, to keep the work firm.
DOUBLE GATHERING OR PUFFING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 3, 4.
Double gathering or puffing is sometimes used in setting on frills,
and gives a very neat finished appearance; it is done in the following
manner. Gather your frill at the top, in the usual way, and stroke
it strongly down; then gather it again below the first gathering,
according to the depth of the puffing you wish to make, about half an
inch, more or less according to fancy, and sew on the first gathering
to the dressing-gown, frock, or whatever you wish to trim, at a
distance that corresponds with the width of the puffing: the second
gathering is to be sewn to the edge of the dress, so that the part
between the two gatherings forms a full hem. Some people make three
gatherings, and proceed in the same way, forming the two full hems
or puffings. It is usually put on straight, but sometimes in sewing
on, the hem is drawn obliquely, or to one side, which makes a little
variety, and when there are three gatherings, one hem is drawn to
one side, and the other to the opposite one, but this requires much
exactness to do it equally.
GERMAN HEMMING.
German hemming or felling is a neat substitute for sewing, where it is
desirable that the seam should lie very flat; it is sometimes employed
with great advantage for sleeves, and even in the long seams of shifts.
It is quite as strong as the old method of a seam and fell, and looks
better, as it is all done on the wrong side.
Turn down the raw edges of both your pieces of cloth once, (having
them both turned down next you,) and lay one below the other, so that
the smooth top of the lower one does not touch the edge of the upper
one, but is just below it, then hem or fell the lower one to the cloth
against which it is laid, still holding it before you, as you had
prepared it, which is exactly like hemming upside down. When you have
got to the end of your seam, open your sleeve, or whatever you are
doing, and lay the upper fold over the lower edge, which you must then
fell neatly down, and it is completed.
WHIPPING.
The edge for whipping should be cut particularly smooth, and divided
into halves and quarters; the muslin is then rolled very tightly with
the left thumb upon the finger, about ten threads from the edge. The
cotton with which you whip should be very strong and even, and the
needle should be stuck in on the outside, and brought out on the
inside, the needle pointing towards your chest. Take the stitches very
evenly, and so as to draw easily. Draw the whipping up to the width
of the piece to which it is going to be sewn; pin it down, and sew it
firmly, holding the whipping towards you, and letting the stitches lie
athwart, so as to be hidden between the whips. If you stroke whipping
with a large pin or needle, in the same way as in gathering, it adds
much to its neat appearance in setting on, and makes it more easy to do.
BUTTON-HOLES.
PLATE 1. FIG. 5.
Cut the button-hole with a chisel (or the proper scissors made for that
purpose) by a thread, the same size as the width across the button.
In holding the work, let the button-hole lie length-wise along the
forefinger. Begin at the side opposite the thumb farthest from the
point of the finger. Put the needle in through the wrong side of the
hole, and bring it out five threads down on the right. The stitch is
made by putting the needle through the loop of the thread before it is
drawn close. Observe that you keep your work evenly by the thread, and
do not turn the corners too soon; the needle should be put in between
every two threads, else the work will not be thick enough. It has a
neat effect to stitch all round the button-hole.
HERRING-BONING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 7, 8.
This is a stitch generally used for flannels and other woollens, also,
for carpets, druggets, window blinds, &c. when a hem would be thick and
clumsy from being turned down twice; whereas in herring-boning the edge
is turned down only once, and lies flat and more compact.
Turn the work down once evenly, first cutting off any woollen fuzz at
the raw edge which looks untidy, and then beginning to work from the
left of your piece of work towards the right, take a stitch of two or
three threads close under the raw turned-down edge, then put in your
needle half way up the turned-down part, and four or five threads
towards the right hand, and make another stitch of three threads;
bring down the needle, and make another stitch as before under the raw
edge, still working a few threads each time farther to the right hand,
and so on forming a stitch something like the backbone of a fish, and
therefore termed herring-bone. This same stitch done on muslin with
fine cord or braid is very ornamental, and is often used at the tops of
hems or bodies of infants’ robes.
DARNING.
“A stitch in time saves nine.”—POOR RICHARD.
The stocking or work should be held across the first and second
fingers of the left hand. In beginning to darn, the needle should be
held pointed from the chest. The work should be begun a few threads
before the hole, or even the thin place, to give a firmer hold to the
cotton. Take one thread and leave one, alternately till the row is
complete; afterwards, point the needle towards the chest, and take up
the intermediate threads which were left before. The cotton must not be
drawn tight, as it is apt to shrink in washing, therefore a loop should
be left at each end. Continue darning backwards and forwards till the
hole and thin parts are covered, afterwards begin to darn crosswise,
being particularly careful to avoid splitting the threads or pulling
the loops tight.
Some people make a point of running the feet of new stockings all
over, which is very advisable for men and boys who wear boots, as it
preserves them much longer.
There are a variety of stitches in darning, some of which have a very
neat appearance, among others the following:-
Take up 1 thread and leave 2
Take up 2 2
Take up 1 3
Take up 2 4
Take up 3 3
Table linen, when darned, looks neater if the work is done in some
pattern; thus, a diamond or circle looks more tidy than an irregular
patch of darning.
ON MENDING A CRACK.
In taking up a crack in a stocking, fasten the thread firmly on, and
then take the two half loops which are next each other on one side of
the crack, upon the needle, and having drawn the thread through them,
do the same on the other side, making the half loop, which was last
taken up on either side, the first of the next stitch.
ON TAKING UP A LADDER.
A ladder is caused by the fall or dropping of a stitch, which it
is necessary to pick up as soon as possible, by putting the needle
into the loop that has fallen, and drawing the bar immediately above
through the loop, thus the bar becomes a loop in its turn, and the
next bar above is in like manner draw through it, till all are taken
up, when the last loop is well secured and darned over.
ON MAKING BUTTONS.
PLATE 1. FIG. 6.
Cover your piece of wire with a square piece of calico, which you must
double over the corners, and sew firmly in the middle; afterwards
stitch the button round close to the wire, or else work over the wire
the button-hole stitch, and in the centre, work a little regular star
to set it off.
ON MAKING TUCKS.
Tucks should be very even; for this purpose, have a bit of card on
which is notched the depth of each tuck, and also the space between
them. Tucks should be run firmly in small regular stitches, constantly
taking a back-stitch as you go on.
MARKING.
In marking, two threads are generally taken each way. There are three
ways in which the needle is passed before the stitch is perfect. One
is aslant from you towards the right hand; the second is straight
downwards towards you; the third is across or aslant from you towards
the left hand, taking care to bring out the needle at that corner of
the stitch nearest the one you are going to make. The generality of
markers make the first stitch aslant twice over, to make it clearer
before proceeding onwards; thus, in Plate 1, Fig. 2, the thread, being
brought out at A, passes across to B, and out again at A; again, across
to B, and out at C; then, aslant to D, and out again at B, ready to
proceed to the next stitch. Where there are two or three letters to
be marked, the thread should be neatly fastened off at the end of
each letter and not carried on from one to the other. Two or four
threads are left between the letters, according to the quality of the
article to be marked. In linen, eight threads are generally left. In
gentlemen’s families, house linen is either marked with the gentleman’s
initials, or else with those of the lady’s christian name added to
the gentleman’s full initials, his christian name coming first: thus,
supposing Edward Montagu’s wife is named Louisa, the initials would be
E. L. M., afterwards the name of the cloth and the number are marked
thus:
E. L. M.
G. C.
8
..37.
signifying, Edward Louisa Montagu, Glass Cloth, Number 8, 1837.
There are many pretty marking patterns for samplers, flat canvass
pincushions, or needle-books. In noblemen’s families, the marks are
surmounted by coronets. There are also two other kinds of marking;
the one is the same stitch as that above described, but differing in
the form of the letters, which are in writing or Italian characters;
this may best be done by copying written letters accurately: the other
kind of marking is, by making the letters perfectly straight, as in
printing, and instead of the marking stitch, working them in small
oylet holes.
In Plate 1, Fig. 1, the sampler drawn gives an accurate idea of the
canvass, and the shape of all the letters in the different alphabets.
The first alphabet is that in most general use; the second contains the
small letters; the third is a correct representation of the Italian
characters, which are much used for marking pocket handkerchiefs and
other fine articles of dress; the fourth and last is quite a fancy
stitch, and rarely employed. The oylet-holes are formed by working
in small stitches round each square, about four stitches in the four
corners, and four intermediate stitches between, are necessary to form
each oylet hole.
PIPING
Is a neat mode of finishing capes, sleeves at the wrist, waistbands,
tops of bodies, &c., and is sewn on in the following way.
Cut crosswise strips of silk, (or whatever other material you are
piping with,) sufficiently wide to admit well the cord, run these
strips neatly together, to make them of a proper length for the piping
you want. Some people run the silk on the cord first, before sewing
it to the piece of work; others, however, merely lay the cord neatly
inside the silk, which is then placed on the edge of the work to which
it is piped, so that the two raw edges of the strip of silk enclosing
the cord should lie on the raw edge of the work; the three thicknesses
are then all firmly run together, the stitches being made just below
the cord. When it is sewn on, the raw edges are pressed inwards, so as
to make the cord set at the edge. The lining is then neatly put in,
which covers these edges and makes all look tidy.
PLAITING.
Care should be taken that the plaits lie evenly one against another,
and that they are of the same size, especially in frills, sleeves, &c.
In double plaiting, the plaits lie both ways, and look very handsome
and full in frills: it requires great care to do them evenly, without
which they will not look well.
ON LINING SLEEVES, BAGS, &c.
After cutting out the lining exactly the same size as the sleeve, fold
it very carefully, so as to make the raw edges lie exactly one on the
other; do the same with the sleeve, taking care to fold the wrong side
outwards. Place the lining on the sleeve and pin them evenly together;
after which, run all the four thicknesses strongly down the seam. Put
your hand in the sleeve, and turn it inside out, drawing the lining
inside; the seam is then quite neat, both inside and outside, as the
stitches lie between the lining and the outer silk. The same should be
done with bags, and any other thing that will admit of it.
ON BRAIDING.
This work can scarcely come under the head of plain work, still, as
children’s dresses are so much ornamented with it, a few observations
may be useful. The very fine flat braid should be used, as it looks
so much neater than that which is thick; it is sold in knots. Silk
braids look well on silk, merino, or muslin; but cotton is the best for
jean, prints, or stuffs. The pattern should be drawn on silver paper,
which is tacked on the piece of work, and the braid worked on it with
the same coloured sewing silk, as thread washes white. To sew on silk
braid, you should use the silk drawn out of the braid, as it is finer
and more even, and will match the colour better than any other you
can procure: cut off, therefore, a bit the length of a needleful, to
keep for the purpose of unroving. If you want to take the pattern of
a piece of work upon paper, place some letter paper on the work, and
while holding it firmly, rub the paper well with half a nutmeg, which
will mark the pattern correctly, and sufficiently distinct on the paper
to admit of its being inked afterwards. Two shades of braid sewn close
together have a pretty effect.
BIASSING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 9.
In biassing, the first part of the stitch resembles gathering, and
after stroking in down with a large needle or pin, you lay, upon the
right side of the gathers, a thread very much thicker than that you
are using in your needle; you then sew over this thread, taking hold,
at the same time, of the gathering thread, and pointing your needle to
your chest; you must be very careful to put your needle between every
gather: the thick thread, thus worked upon the gathering, has a very
neat effect, and adds much to its strength; two or three rows of it,
at short distances from each other, look very well: it is particularly
suitable for the shoulders and sleeves of dresses, and for children’s
saccarines, pelisses, &c. It is a good plan to bias with sewing and
netting silk, in preference to thread, as it is much stronger.
GAGING.
This is very suitable for the fronts of children’s dresses, and the
tops of the cuffs of sleeves; it is done as follows. Take up the
stitches at regular intervals of half an inch, for the first row. For
the second, continue doing the same; letting the needle, however, take
up the intermediate parts. The third row resembles the first, and
so on. For the purpose of securing the gathers firmly, work them as
follows, with very strong netting silk. Take on your needle the two
first gathers, and the thread on which they run, pulling your thread
firmly through. For the next stitch, again take two gathers and the
thread upon your needle, letting the first of them be the last gather
that was taken up at the former stitch, so that the work proceeds but
by one gather at a time. Observe to draw the netting silk as tightly as
possible, so as to make the stitches lie very closely together, in a
slanting position.
HONEY-COMBING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 10, 11.
This sort of work is much used for the inside of the tops of
work-boxes, and sometimes for the tops and heads of beds; it is usually
done with silk, satin, or velvet, for the former; and highly-glazed
chintz or calico, for the latter. Crease your material in even folds,
taking care to have them very regular, and of a proper depth to suit
the purpose for which it is intended; with a strong thread, tack the
folds together with long stitches, so as to make them lie compactly
one against another; then, with sewing silk of the proper colour,
stitch firmly together, at moderate equal distances, the first and
second folds: afterwards, stitch the second and third folds, at
equal distances, taking your stitches in the intermediate intervals
(see Plate 1, Fig. 10 and 11). The third and fourth folds are only
repetitions of the first and second, and by continuing your work in
this way, the stitches of the alternate rows will accord with each
other. When the piece is completed, and the tacking-thread drawn
out, pull your work open, and it will form puffings, in the shape of
diamonds, on the right side.
BINDING.
Flannel is generally bound with sarsenet ribbon, or a kind of thin tape
called flannel binding. This is generally put on so as merely to shew
a little way over the edge on the right side, and should be neatly and
firmly hemmed down. On the other side, run the binding down with small
neat stitches, so as to look very tidy on the right side. Some people,
in binding flannel, turn half on the other side of the edge, but this
is not nearly so neat in appearance.
QUILTING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 12, 13.
Is generally employed for coverlets, silk shoes, cushions, linings of
work-baskets and boxes; also, for babies’ bonnets, hoods, &c. &c.; and
is well adapted to those purposes for which warmth and softness are
essential.
It is done in the following manner. Lay a piece of flannel, demet, or
other soft substance, between the satin (or other material forming
the outside) and the lining of whatever you are going to make. Run it
firmly together, taking care that the stitches go through, not only the
satin, but the flannel and lining. The running is done in diamonds,
squares, octagons, or any other pattern with very small stitches, in
silk the same colour as the material. Coverlets are often quilted with
patterns of birds, fishes, stars, &c. &c.
Another kind of quilting, which looks very neat, is done as follows.
Baste the piece of work in diamonds, with very long stitches of
thread, and then, with your needle, work a little star at each of the
intersections or points of the diamonds, putting in your needle between
the material and the lining, when the thread is ready to be carried
from one star to another, to conceal the stitches.
MAKING ROULEAUS.
These are used for trimming dresses, capes, &c., and are made of satin,
silk, or velvet, in the following manner. Cut pieces of the material
crosswise, about one or more nails, and join a sufficient number of
them to form the length required; after which double the strip in two,
on the wrong side, and run along near the edge. When you have got to
the end, see that your needle is fastened firmly, with strong thread
to it, and turn your needle inside the roll, running it through as you
would a bodkin, and, on pulling it gently out, it will pull the rouleau
inside out, and make it look neat; after which, draw sufficient wool
through the rouleau to fill it.
CORONATION BRAID.
This kind of braid is bought in knots, and resembles Fig. 10, Plate 1.
In putting it on frocks, it may be sewn in various patterns of leaves,
&c.: it looks pretty, and both wears and washes well. (See Plate 5,
Fig. 28, 29.)
CORD SEWN ON.
This is often put on infants’ frock bodies, it looks neat and washes
remarkably well. It is sewn on in waves, diamonds, vandykes, or any
other pattern. The thread for sewing it on should be fine, and the
stitches very small.
CHAIN STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 21.
It is a kind of ornamental work, which, as it is often used in frock
bodies for children, will be here explained; together with some other
fancy stitches, although they do not strictly come under the head of
plain work.
Chain stitch is done as follows. Thread your needle with fine round
union cord, braid, or bobbin; tie a knot at the end of it, and draw the
cord through to the right side of your work. Let your cord hang loosely
in front, while you stick in your needle, as in the Plate, and bring
it out below, inclining it a little to the left, passing your needle
over your thread as you draw it out, so as to form a loop. Draw out
the needle, taking care not to pull the stitch tightly, and repeat the
same, putting the needle in a little higher, and to the right hand of
the place where it was last drawn out: thus each new loop begins within
the lower part of the preceding one, and you produce the effect of a
chain.
FANCY CHAIN STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 22.
This is a very pretty stitch for ornamenting babies’ dresses, and
especially their hats, and should be worked in netting silk, silk
cord, or braid. The stitch resembles that of the common chain stitch
above mentioned, excepting that very little is taken up on the needle
at a time, and the stitches made far apart. The stitch may be varied
according to whether the needle slants little or much. If it is made to
lie quite horizontally before the work, it becomes button-hole stitch
at once.
CHAIN STITCH ON GATHERS.
This has a remarkably neat effect, and if done with coloured worsted
upon Holland dresses, when biassed or gaged, it will wash and wear
well. Take up two gathers at a time for each stitch, always taking one
old, and one new gather on the needle at a time.
FANCY BOBBIN EDGING.
PLATE 5. FIG. 18.
This is pretty for the edges of frocks and robings, and is a very
simple stitch, which wears well. After hemming the edge, tie a knot at
the end of your bobbin, and draw it through to the right side of the
work, just below the hem. Carry the bobbin over the hem, by sticking
in your needle at the wrong side, bringing it through; after which, on
drawing the loop to the proper size, pass your bobbin through it, and
begin the next stitch, and so on, forming a succession of loops.
FANCY HERRING-BONING.
PLATE 5. FIG. 23.
This stitch resembles that of the common herring-bone, except that it
is worked perpendicularly instead of from left to right, and the thread
is brought round behind the needle, as represented in Plate 5, which
gives a greater finish to the stitch.
DOUBLE HERRING-BONING.
PLATE 5. FIG. 27.
This pattern is too intricate to describe, farther than by saying it is
a kind of double herring-bone on each side. The Plate gives a tolerably
accurate idea of the stitch. As great care is requisite to keep the
pattern even, it is better to run a tacking-thread, as a guide, down
the middle of it.
THE ANGULAR STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 24.
This is a neat ornament for capes, cuffs, and the skirts of children’s
pelisses, and resembles the button-hole stitch, but is carried
angularly from right to left, to form the pattern. Care should be taken
to make the pattern of equal width and very even and straight, as much
of its merit depends upon its regularity.
THE SERPENTINE STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 25.
This is a peculiarly pretty work, and much employed for children’s
dresses. It is worked with the hand, and sewn on to the material when
made. Take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at one end, and pass
the other end through the loop towards the front, to form another loop
to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin first through the loop
on one side, and then through the loop on the other, directing the
cord so as to pass from the outer side of the work invariably towards
the inner, or that part next the work. The Plate will give a clearer
representation of this than can be easily done by words.
THE HORSE-SHOE STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 20.
This stitch is worked from left to right, as seen in the Plate, and is
pretty when worked near to the edge of robings, hems, &c. The Plate
gives so clear a representation of the way to hold the needle and
thread, that no explanation is necessary. It is done with thick loosely
twisted cotton or bobbin.
FANCY BUTTON-HOLE STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 19.
This is very pretty for the fronts of bodies, also for the bands
and shoulder-bits, and above the broad hems or tucks of frocks. It
resembles a very wide button-hole stitch. It washes and wears well.
CORAL PATTERN.
PLATE 5. FIG. 26.
This pattern is particularly suitable for the tops of broad hems, or
the waistbands of children’s frocks. It requires great accuracy in
the working; and if attempted by an inexperienced person, it would be
desirable to run lines, in long stitches, to determine the middle and
outer sides of the pattern. It can be best understood by reference to
the Plate, merely remarking that the stitch is begun on the left hand,
and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the
needle towards the centre.
GENERAL RULES FOR COMPLETING WORK.
“The threaded steel
Flies swiftly, and unfelt the task proceeds.”
—COWPER.
In making up dresses, all openings of pocket holes, of sleeves near
the wrist, &c. &c., should be very firmly fastened off, as they are
apt to tear. There are two or three modes of making them strong: one
is by working round the pail in button-hole stitch, and also by making
a bar from one side to the other, by passing the needle backwards and
forwards several times, working the button-hole stitch upon the bar; a
second is by sewing a piece of strong tape upon the hem, about an inch
on each side from the bottom; and a third way, which can only be done
when the pocket-hole is in a seam, is by making one side lap over the
other considerably, by which means the slit is not only strengthened,
but it does not gape open, which always has an untidy appearance. To
prevent dresses from opening at the slit below the band, it is a good
plan to extend the gathers, on one side, an inch beyond the band, by
joining a piece of strong tape to the end of it, and sewing the gathers
neatly upon it. This piece of tape must be contrived so as to hook or
button on to the band on the other side, so as to lap over the slit,
and thus prevent its opening.
In fastening on tapes, sew firmly in close small stitches round the
three outer sides, and back-stitch across the fourth.
In sewing on buttons, it is best to put the needle in and out, so as
to form a cross-stitch in the centre over and over again, till firmly
fastened.
In sewing on the long tapes to the bands of petticoats, gowns, &c., it
is an excellent plan to make a large button-hole near one end, through
which the tape of the other end is passed, before brought to tie in
front.
The gussets of sleeves, &c., are put in as follows. Take the piece
intended for the gusset and prove, by folding it crosswise, that it is
a perfect square; after which, it is the best and most durable plan
to hem it all round: next hem the two ends of the sleeve, and fix on
the gusset by sewing one end of the sleeve firmly to one side of the
gusset, and the other end of the sleeve to the next side of the gusset,
immediately round the corner. The easiest mode of ascertaining which
sides of the gusset are joined to the sleeve, is by folding the gusset
corner-wise, and the two sides that lie one above the other are sewn
to the two ends of the sleeve, and the other two sides, lying also one
above the other, form that part of the sleeve fastened to the body of
the dress. Sometimes the gusset is cut out much smaller than the ends
of the sleeve, especially for baby clothes, in which case the sides of
the gusset forming the part fastened to the skirt, ought to be still
placed so as to continue in a line with those sides of the sleeve sewn
on to the skirt. That part of the ends of the sleeve which is longer
than the gusset should be sewn together.
Some sleeves are cut with the gussets in one length, so that it is
only necessary to turn up the one corner of the piece, like a half
handkerchief, so as to make it lie upon the side of the strip which is
folded just in half, and when the second end is sewn to that part which
meets it, the sleeve is formed, and only requires hemming at the bottom
to complete it, before putting it in.
In setting a long sleeve, such as a shirt or night-gown sleeve, into a
wristband, let the slit be sufficiently long to admit of the wristband
being laid open and easily ironed. The gathers at the top of the sleeve
should be set into a space exactly the same as the wristband, to make
it lie flat also. These little attentions are a great assistance to the
washerwoman.
CHAPTER II.
A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON PURCHASING GOODS.
“Many have been ruined by buying good pennyworths.”
—POOR RICHARD.
It is very bad economy to purchase, for articles of clothing, cheap
bargains. They generally consist of damaged goods, or are otherwise
inferior in their quality, as it stands to reason that no mercer would
feel inclined to sell his stock at a lower rate than its worth.
The only parts of dress which it may be sometimes advisable to purchase
at a cheap rate, are gloves, ribbons, and such articles as are easily
soiled long before being worn out, and cannot well be cleaned: in large
towns and dirty neighbourhoods they are soon discoloured, and therefore
their durability is of little consequence.
Linens, calicoes, woollens, prints, &c., should be carefully chosen
from the best, as they are in constant wash and wear, and would soon
become worn and threadbare if not good and strong. Two sets of good
linen will wear out three or four sets of inferior, which, when the
expense of making up is considered, becomes, in its turn, far more
expensive, besides the extra trouble and time, both of which are well
worth saving.
Observe that the cloth is the proper width for the articles wanted,
so as to cut out to the best advantage. Much waste may arise from its
being one nail too wide or too narrow. Take notice that the selvages,
and also the threads, are even and good both ways.
CALICO.
Observe that it is free from dress, which is a preparation of lime
employed by the manufacturers to make it of a better colour, as, if
(as is often the case) the dressing is too high in proportion to
the strength of the threads, it becomes rotten, tears, and wears
badly, and after washing, is poor and thin, like canvass; choose your
calico, therefore, undressed, for then you can more exactly judge of
its quality and strength. It should be soft, without specks, and the
threads and selvages even. It is often cheaper to buy the whole piece,
if much is wanted, as a small allowance is made per yard. If a small
quantity is wanted for a baby’s caps, shirts, &c., it is often good
economy to purchase remnants, fencings, or felts, by which means you
sometimes get the best qualities for very low prices. Calico runs of
various widths and qualities: the unbleached, or grey, is the best
for shifts, boys’ shirts, &c., for the lower orders, being warmer and
stronger than the white.
The following are the useful widths, with the general prices at the
present time, though, of course, they are constantly varying.
Unbleached calico, from 13 nails wide to 2 yards 4 nails, price from
4_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._
Fine white calico for caps, aprons, &c., from 12 nails upwards to 1½
yard, price from 4_d._ upwards.
Stout calico, from 14 nails upwards to 3 yards wide, price from 8_d._
to 3_s._
LINEN.
The Suffolk hemp is considered the best. The threads should be
particularly even. The useful widths are from 13¼ nails to 16, for
shirting. The common linen is sometimes as low as 8_d._ or 9½_d._ per
yard, and the best at 2_s._ 9_d._ or 3_s._ Linen should be scalded
before it is cut out and made up, as it is too stiff to allow of its
being sewn with ease.
LAWN.
Lawn is merely a finer quality of linen, and is sometimes used for the
fronts of gentlemen’s shirts, also for babies’ night-caps, shirts,
frilling, &c. Its width varies from 13 nails upwards, and the price
from about 4_s._ to 8_s._
CAMBRIC.
Cambric is a finer sort of lawn. Its width is about three-quarters of a
yard, and the price from 4_s._ to 12_s._
MUSLIN CHECKS.
The small check which is used for caps generally wears the best.
Observe that the thin places between the checks are good, and the
threads even. They are generally 1¼ yard wide, and from 9_d._ to 20_d._
or 2_s._ per yard.
BLUE CHECKS.
This is very serviceable for aprons, and should be entirely linen, if
wanted to wear well. It runs from 1 yard wide to 1¼ yard, and is from
3_d._ to 16_d._ per yard.
The cotton check answers very well for children’s pinbefores, though
not nearly so durable as the other. It is of various widths, and from
6_d._ to 1_s._ per yard.
PRINTS, CHINTZES, AND GINGHAMS.
These often wash very badly: if, therefore, you are buying a doubtful
colour, it would be advisable to beg a piece as a pattern, and wash
half of it, which, when compared with the other half, will shew at once
whether the colours are fixed or not. They are better when the pattern
is the same on both sides.
Dark and light blue, lilac, buff, bright brown, red, and pink are good
wearing colours.
Green, chocolate, and violet are very fading colours. They vary in
price from 3_d._ to 10_d._, or even 1_s._ The usual width for gowns is
11 nails. The width sold for aprons is 14 nails.
FLANNELS.
The Welsh is far superior to the Lancashire, and both washes and wears
better; the latter is, however, cheaper. It is generally of a yellowish
colour, while the Welsh is more of a blue grey.
Purchasing large quantities at the fairs at Welsh-Pool, Newtown, and
other Welsh markets, is good economy, as several yards are often given
in to the hundred. The common flannels for petticoats are 9_d._ to
14_d._ per yard, and the finer upwards, to 2_s._ or 3_s._ 8_d._: they
vary in width from 9 nails to 16. New flannel should be plunged in
scalding water, and hung out to dry without wringing.
CLOTH.
Cloth should be smooth, with a good nap.
STUFFS.
Observe that they are evenly dyed, as they are often dashed. Hold them
up to the light, that you may better judge of their quality. The black
dye is apt to decay the stuff. Brown and dark green are particularly
good wearing colours. Width from ½ and ¾ yard, upwards. Price from
8_d._ to 2_s._
CRAPE.
Crape is often dashed and spotted, as it is a difficult article to take
dye evenly. Have it spread over white before buying it, when you can
more easily detect blemishes. The width is 1 yard, and the price 2_s._
to 4_s._ 6_d._
SATIN.
It should be soft and thick, unless for trimming caps, when a poorer
kind may be used. When wanted for trimmings, satin should be cut
crosswise.—(See the end of Chapter III.) It is from ½ yard to 10 nails
wide, and from 2_s._ 6_d._ to 7_s._ 6_d._
SILKS.
Should not be too stiff, thin, or papery, as they are apt to tear or
slit in the plaits and folds. See that they are soft, without specks
or stains; and, as silk dresses turn well, and even dye afterwards, it
would be advisable to have no wrong side—that is, the pattern equally
good on both sides. They are generally ½ yard wide, though black silk
of 1 yard in width can be bought for aprons.
In cheap silks, a kind of camel’s hair is frequently woven to make them
appear richer and thicker to the touch, but this is highly injurious to
the silk, as it causes it to wear very ill, and cut in all the folds
and creases. The way to detect the existence of camel hair in silks,
is to take a little bit in the hand and pull it gently cross-way, and
if there be any camel hair interwoven with the silk it will spring back
as if elastic, making a soft kind of whistling sound.
CHAPTER III.
GENERAL RULES FOR CUTTING OUT.
“Waste not, want not.”
“Cut your coat according to your cloth.”
Articles of clothing are measured by cloth measure.
2¼ inches make 1 nail.
4 nails — 1 quarter.
4 quarters — 1 yard.
5 — — 1 English ell.
6 — — 1 French ell.
All linens, calicoes, &c., to be washed before cut out.
All linens, including lawn, cambric, and Holland, should be cut by the
thread.
All calicoes, muslins, and flannels will tear, though the former,
unless very stout, pull a good deal awry.
All small articles, as gussets, should be cut, in preference to being
torn.
Cutting out whole sets of things together often prevents much waste;
hence it is better to cut out six or twelve shirts at once, than only
one at a time.
Skirts, sleeves, wristbands, shoulder-straps, collars, waistbands, and
every thing liable to be stretched in wearing, to be cut selvage-wise.
Frills, flounces, and pieces fulled between bands, are usually cut the
width way.
Frills for caps are generally twice as long as the article they are to
be frilled upon; three times is very full, and is sometimes used for
neck frills.
Linings of hats, bonnets, fronts, and backs of gowns, tippets, most
women’s collars, and every thing intended to set well and closely, of
an irregular shape or surface, to be cut crosswise.
Pipings and linings to broad hems always to be cut crosswise.
In cutting crosswise, first fold the end of the piece like a
half-handkerchief, so as to lay the raw edge evenly against the selvage
side, and cut off the half square, from which cut the strips for
piping, &c.
To cut off a yard crosswise, measure a yard along each of the selvage
sides, (after the half square has been cut off) crease it slantingly
across, and cut it.
Satins, velvets, and some silks, may be purchased cut the cross way, as
well as the straight.
CHAPTER IV.
THE WORK-BOX.
“Your thimble gone? Your scissors, where are they?
Your needles, pins, your thread, and tapes all lost.
Your housewife here, and there your work-bag tost.”
—POEMS.
The next thing which will come under our observation is the work-box,
or basket, and of this it may be useful to say a few words, as much of
the comfort of a good workwoman depends on the choice and arrangement
of her tools (if they may be so termed) and materials.
A work-box, or basket, should be large enough to hold a moderate supply
of work and all its requisites, without being of such a size as to be
inconvenient to carry about, or lift with ease. There should be in it
divisions or partitions, as they assist in keeping it in order; but
some persons are apt to run into the extreme of over-partitioning their
boxes, which defeats its own purpose and becomes troublesome: this
should be carefully avoided.
A work-box should contain six or eight of the useful sized white reel
sewing cottons, black cotton, and silks, white, black, and coloured,
both round and for darning; a few useful tapes, bobbin, galloon,
buttons of all kinds, including thread, pearl, metal, and black; also,
hooks and eyes. An ample needle-book, containing a page of kerseymere
for each sized needle, not omitting the darning, glove, stay, and
worsted or carpet needles.
There are various kinds of scissors; the most useful are,
A large pair, for cutting out linen;
A medium size, for common use;
A small pair with rounded points;
A smaller pair with sharper points, for cutting out muslin work, &c.;
Lace scissors with a flat knob at one of the points;
Button-hole scissors.
A pincushion, an emery cushion, a waxen reel for strengthening thread,
a stiletto, bodkins, a thimble, a small knife, and a yard measure, made
like a carpenter’s foot rule, only with nails instead of inches marked
upon it: for a further description of it, see explanation to Plate 24.
These complete the list of things necessary for a good workwoman; other
things, as shield, tweezers, which are often added, may be considered
as superfluities.
It is a good plan to fit up a square basket for the use of each working
servant in the house, as for instance, the lady’s-maid, the nurse, the
housemaid, the laundry-maid. These baskets should vary sufficiently in
form and size to be easily distinguished one from the other; the kind
usually sold for babies’ baskets is the most convenient, being large
enough to hold plenty of work, and yet shallow, so as easily to search
for things at the bottom.
To these baskets should belong, a small tin box for buttons, hooks and
eyes, bodkins, &c.; a large pair of scissors and sheath tied to each
other, and fastened by a long string to the handle of the basket. A
heavy pincushion, formed of a brick or piece of iron or lead, placed in
a bag full of bran, padded with flannel, and covered over with print
or calico. A large needle-book. A bag to contain tapes, silks, darning
cottons, &c. It is advisable to mark the scissors sheath, needle-book,
pincushion, bag, and even basket, with the initial of the maid by whom
it is used, as H. B. for housemaid’s basket.
A rag bag is a desirable thing to have hung up in some conspicuous part
of the house, into which all odd bits, and even shreds, of calico,
print, linen, muslin, &c. should be put; as they are useful to come in
when a gusset or chin-stay, or other small article is wanting. Those
bits too small for this purpose may still be used by school children,
for practising stitches of needle-work upon; or, at all events, may be
disposed of to the rag merchants, and thus prove of some value at last.
Another family bag, for the purpose of containing stray tapes, or shoe
strings, hooks, eyes, odd buttons, pieces of silk, or bits of ribbon,
may be kept with advantage; especially where there is a large family of
children, whose demands for these small articles are daily and constant.
CHAPTER V.
ON BABY-LINEN, WITH SCALES FOR CLOTHES OF OLDER CHILDREN.
“The mother, wi’ her needle and her shears,
Gars auld claes look amaist as weel’s the new.”
—BURNS.
The following articles are necessary to be prepared for an infant’s
first dress, and are equally applicable (with some exceptions) to
the poor as well as the rich, though the quality of the materials,
of course, must differ. The average number of each article usually
provided by ladies for an infant’s wardrobe, may here be introduced
with propriety, though they must vary according to circumstances.
Persons to whom economy is a great object may find a much smaller stock
answer as well, if they are able to send the linen often to the wash.
Shirts 12 to 18 Plate 2 Fig. 23
Flannel bands 2-4 — 3 — 12
Flannel caps 2-3 — 2 — 8
Night-caps 6-12 — 2 — 4
Day-caps 3-6 — 2
Napkins (dozens of) 4-6 — 3 — 11
Pilchers 4-6 — 3 — 10
Pinafores 6-12 — 3 — 18
Bedgowns 4-6 — 3 — 16
First day-gowns 3-4 — 3 — 14
Night-flannels 3-4 — 3 — 1, 2
Day-flannels 3-4 — 3 — 3
Flannel cloak 1-2 — 4 — 19, 24
Flannel shawl 2-3
Robes 4-6 — 4 — 2 to 8
Petticoats 4-6 — 4 — 1
Socks 4-8
Hood 1 — 4 — 29
Cloak or pelisse 1 — 4 — 20, 21, 23
Also, the following et ceteras:—
One receiver; 1 basket-cover; 1 flannel, and 1 India rubber apron; 6
nursery soft towels; 1 cradle, bassinette, or crib-cover, and bedding;
1 pincushion.
LENDING LINEN FOR THE POOR.
Linen is often lent by ladies to the poor, at their confinements, in
bags, boxes, or baskets, containing the following articles:—
+-------------------------------------+---------------+
| WOMAN. | |
+-------------------------------------+---------------+
| | Pl. Fig. |
| 2 shifts | 6 2 |
| 2 night jackets | 8 2 |
| 2 caps | 9 2 or 20 |
| 1 flannel petticoat | 8 9 |
| 1 flannel gown (or shawl) | 10 4 |
| 1 pair of sheets | |
| 1 roll of flannel, 4 breadths long,| |
| and ½ yard deep | |
+-------------------------------------+---------------+
| BABY. | |
+-------------------------------------+---------------+
| | Pl. Fig. |
| 3 shirts | 2 27 |
| 3 caps | 2 4 |
| 1 flannel cap | 2 8 |
| 1 flannel band | 3 12 |
| 3 night-gowns | 3 12 |
| 2 flannel gowns | 3 6 |
| 12 napkins | 3 4 |
| 2 soft towels | 3 11 |
+-------------------------------------+---------------+
Also, may be added, a baby’s crockery bottle, bed-pan, dust-bag, pair
of blankets, bottle of castor oil, sal volatile, with proper directions
pasted on, some large pins, strong thread, and a few books.
The most convenient kind of basket for containing these articles of
clothing, is a light wicker-work one, about 20 inches long, 12 inches
wide, and 20 inches high. This size holds two folded sheets, side
by side, at the bottom, and all the rest above. It should have two
handles, sufficiently high to allow of the lid opening easily. (See
Plate 5, Fig. 14.)
A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
Baby-linen should be cut out with great exactness and precision, and
made up with the most scrupulous neatness. In all the patterns, an
eye should be had to their being contrived so as to put on with the
greatest comfort and ease to the infant, and made to button or tie
readily. No hard seams, buttons, or runners should come in contact with
their tender skin, therefore all strings should be made to tie on the
outside.
To each head a scale is affixed, by which the same patterns may be
cut out of various sizes, in proper proportions, to suit children of
different ages.
There are three lengths for the skirts of baby-linen; the first and
longest, for the rich, is generally 18 nails, and for the poor, 16; the
second size, commonly called three-quarters, is about 15 nails for the
rich, and 13 for the poor; the third size, or short coats, is about
half a yard.
To prevent mistakes, observe, that on all occasions, the number of
nails marked on the Plate, refers to the size of the article when cut
out, and not when made up.
CAPS
Are generally made of soft calico, or checked muslin, with muslin
frills, for the poor, and of fine lawn or cambric, with cambric frills
or lace borders for the higher classes. Babies’ caps, of whatever size
they may be, are generally cut so as to form a square when they are
doubled, after allowing for runners, &c.
FOUNDLING CAP.
PLATE 2. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+
| ———————— | Baby’s 1st size. |
+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+
| | Yds. nls. in. |
| Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 16 .. 0 |
| Quantity required for twelve caps | 1 .. 2 .. 0 |
| Width of cap | 4 .. 0 |
| Length of cap down to the selvage | 6 .. 0 |
| Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1 .. 0 |
| Depth of slit into the cap | 1 .. 0 |
| Depth in front to be turned back | 1 .. 0 |
| Depth of frill | 1 |
| Length of frill | 1 .. 10 .. 0 |
+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+
| ———————— | Child of 2 years.|
+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+
| | |
| Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 13½ or 18 nls. |
+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+
| Quantity required for twelve caps | 1 yd. 12 nls. |
| | 1 yd. 5 nls. |
+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+
| Width of cap | 4½ nails |
| Length of cap down to the selvage | 7 do. |
| Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1¼ do. |
| Depth of slit into the cap | 1 do. |
| Depth in front to be turned back | 1 do. |
| Depth of frill | ½ do. |
| Length of frill | 2 yards |
+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+
| ———————— | Child of 4 years.|
+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+
| | Yds. nls. in. |
| Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 15 .. 0 |
| Quantity required for twelve caps | 2 .. 0 .. 0 |
| Width of cap | 5 .. 0 |
| Length of cap down to the selvage | 8 0 |
| Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1½ 0 |
| Depth of slit into the cap | 1 0 |
| Depth in front to be turned back | 1 0 |
| Depth of frill | ¾ 0 |
| Length of frill | 2 0 0 |
+-----------------------------------------------+------------------+
BABY’S FIRST SIZE.
Choose your calico soft and fine, of 12 or 16 nails wide, so as to
enable you to cut exactly three or four caps in the width, the depth of
the cap, from front to back, being 4 nails; the whole length, from ear
to ear, is 6 nails, which you must measure down the selvage-way of the
cloth (see Fig. 2). One yard and 2 nails will cut into twelve caps, if
the calico is 16 nails wide.
When you have divided your calico into pieces for caps, cut them out as
follows:—
Take one piece, and fold the edge backwards one nail down the long
side, and then, by doubling the cap in half the other way, it should
form a square (Fig. 1): the nail thus doubled back, (see Fig. 3, A
upon B), is to be hemmed down neatly, and a runner formed for a bobbin
(see Fig. 4, T). The corners, by the ears, are rounded off (see Fig.
4, S), and another runner formed all round the edge. (Observe, in all
the Plates the letter D denotes the folded, or doubled part of the
material.) The back is shaped by first measuring one nail from the
bottom (see Fig. 3, D D), and cutting into the cap one nail (Fig. 3, D
E), taking care to cut it very evenly by a thread: afterwards slope off
the crown, above the slit, in a semi-circular form (Fig. 3, E).
The cap is made up by neatly felling and back-stitching the seam from
D to D, Fig. 3, and gathering the semi-circular part into the straight
piece, E D, and felling it over. A strip of calico is often neatly
sewn on the inside, over the gathers, to make them set softer to the
child’s head, and is called a back-stay. These strips, together with
the chin-stays, should be cut selvage-wise of the cloth.
A chin-stay is three nails long, and half a nail wide, therefore cut
off three nails from down the selvage, and then divide from this piece
as many chin-stays as are wanted; afterwards cut the back-stays, which
are only two and a half nails long, and a quarter of a nail wide. The
chin-stay should be neatly sewn up the whole length, with a small
button-hole at one end; they are generally sewn on at the left corner
of the cap, and the button on the right.
Some persons prefer having two buttons sewn on the cap, one at each
ear, and the stay made with two button-holes, so as easily to be
changed and washed, without changing the cap also, as babies are apt
to wet them, which makes them hard and rough to the chin. The frills
should be cut width-wise of the muslin; the strips should be one inch
wide. The length is generally determined by the width of the muslin,
and is from a breadth and a half to two breadths, so as to prevent
waste as much as possible. For a cap this size, about a yard and ten
nails length of frilling is sufficient.
[Illustration: PLATE 2.
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19
Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 20 Fig 21
Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 22 Fig 23
Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 28
Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 29
Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 30
Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16]
ANOTHER CHILD’S CAP.
PLATE 2. FIG. 5, 6.
SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES.
+-------------------------------------------------+---------------+
| | |
| ———————— | First size. |
| | |
+-------------------------------------------------+---------------+
| | Yds. nls. |
| Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 15 |
| Quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps | 1 2 |
| Width of cap | 3¾ |
| Length along the selvage | 6 |
| Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1 |
| Depth of the slit into the cap | 1 |
| Depth of frill | 1 |
+-------------------------------------------------+---------------+
| | |
| ———————— |Child of 2 yrs.|
| | |
+-------------------------------------------------+---------------+
| | Yds. nls. |
| Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 17 |
| Quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps | 1 5 |
| Width of cap | 4¾ |
| Length along the selvage | 7 |
| Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1¾ |
| Depth of the slit into the cap | 1 |
| Depth of frill | ½ |
+-------------------------------------------------+---------------+
| | |
| ———————— |Child of 7 yrs.|
| | and upwards. |
+-------------------------------------------------+---------------+
| | Yds. nls. |
| Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 14¼ |
| Quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps | 2 0 |
| Width of cap | 4¾ |
| Length along the selvage | 8 |
| Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1½ |
| Depth of the slit into the cap | 1 |
| Depth of frill | ¾ |
+-------------------------------------------------+---------------+
INFANT’S FIRST SIZE.
This sort will answer for either day or night-cap, and, when nicely
made, looks neat and pretty. The calico should, if possible, be 15
nails wide, to allow of exactly four caps being cut in the width, to
prevent waste, as these caps are to be 3¾ nails wide: should any waste
arise, it will, however, come in for chin-stays, &c. The cap is 6 nails
long. Double the piece in half, and it will form a square, by allowing
the ¾ of a nail for the runners in front. Measure one nail behind from
the bottom, S S, and slit into the cap one nail, S P. Slope off the
crown in a semi-circular form, P Q.
In making up the cap, make three or four runners at regular intervals,
Z Z, and a neat hem all round, to admit of bobbins. The semi-circular
part, P Q, is gathered into the straight part, P S, and neatly felled
over, the seam, S S, being previously sewn up. Hem the back-stay inside
the gathers, and put on the chin-stay and frill.
CHILD’S FLANNEL CAP.
PLATE 2. FIG. 7, 8.
SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES.
+------------------------------------------+------+------+------+
| | |Child |Child |
| ———————— |First | of | of |
| |size. |3 yrs.|6 yrs.|
+------------------------------------------+------+------+------+
| |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|
|Width of cap, cut in width of cloth | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Length cut down the selvage | 7 | 8 | 9 |
|Distance at the bottom to the slit behind | 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ |
|Length of slit | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ |
+------------------------------------------+------+------+------+
INFANT’S FIRST SIZE.
These caps are of use after washing an infant’s head, to prevent its
taking cold, till its hair is sufficiently dry to put on its usual cap.
Choose very soft fine Welsh flannel, of 15 nails wide, so as to cut
five caps in the width, of 3 nails each. Let them be 7 nails long, so
as to come well over the ears, and admit of shrinking in washing. Fold
the pieces in half, measure at the back 1¼ nails from the bottom, S T,
and slit into the cap, T A. Slope off the crown from C to D. In making
them up, they should be neatly hemmed, and the hem run at the edge
with very fine thread, to make it lie flat, or else herring-boned with
very small stitches. Ladies generally have these caps bound with white
sarsenet ribbon (see explanation of binding, page 7). The back ought
to be herring-boned with very small regular stitches, and the circular
part, C D, plaited and herring-boned into the straight part, A T, and a
piece of fine calico or sarsenet ribbon hemmed inside, over the plaits.
Two runners, or string cases (Fig. 8, F G), are then made by hemming
neatly two bits of soft tape or sarsenet inside, at proper distances.
The one marked G not to be carried lower down on each side than H,
which is nearly opposite the slit at the back. All the tapes are tied
outside, and the tape-holes neatly worked round in button-hole stitch.
Two tapes for strings.
INFANT’S DAY-CAP.
PLATE 2. FIG. 9, 10, 11.
No scale necessary, as this shape is generally worn only by infants.
INFANT’S FIRST SIZE.
This shape is the most suitable for a day-cap for the higher classes,
and is generally made of worked cambric or spotted lace. The cap is
8 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails wide; your
material would, therefore, cut to the best advantage if 15 nails wide,
to admit of six caps being cut in the width. The crown or circular
piece is 1 nail across when hemmed, therefore, cut it as much larger as
will allow for the turning down.
It is finished as follows: make the runners and hem in front very small
and firm, either at regular distances from each other, or otherwise,
according to fancy. Sew up the back, H, and make a small neat hem
at the bottom, J K, to admit another bobbin; afterwards, whip the
top, L M, having previously with pins divided it into quarters. Hem
the circular piece and crease it into four also, and gather the cap
into the crown, drawing the whipping evenly, and making each quarter
correspond.
Fig. 11 is the same shape, but more ornamented, having a worked crown,
and made of spotted cambric. These caps look very pretty with a white
or delicate blue or pink satin or silk inner cap, to set off the work.
A piece of insertion-work is also put between the runners in front,
which adds to the lightness of their appearance.
PLATE 2. FIG. 12, 13.
This is much used by the poor, and is easily made and as easily washed.
Take of the material a piece 6 nails down the selvage, and 3½ nails
wide. Double it, letting D be the doubled part. Sew up the back from A
to C, leaving a small hole or button-hole at the top, C; make a runner
all round the front and behind, at half a nail’s distance from the
edge, which is hemmed with a very narrow hem to form a frill: also, lay
in a runner from E to F; next, sew a bobbin at B, letting one end of
the string hang outside, and the other, being pulled through the seam,
remains inside the cap. This end is carried up and brought out through
the hole at C (see the dotted line in the Plate which represents the
top inside); when worn, the tapes, on being tied together at B, draw
up the cap into shape, and if neatly arranged and pulled out with the
fingers, it looks very neat and pretty. (See Fig. 13.) Some put a loop
of bobbin inside at B, which, on being brought out through C, fastens
to a button at B, on the outside.
THE FULL FRENCH CAP.
PLATE 2. FIG. 14, 15, 16.
This is exceedingly pretty, but is rather troublesome to get up at the
wash, and sometimes requires unpicking to be neatly done.
Take a piece of cambric 10 nails wide width-way, and 1¼ deep
selvage-wise (see Fig. 15). Take another piece, 6 nails long
selvage-wise and 1¼ wide (see Fig. 16). The latter piece is that part
in which runners are made to admit of bobbins.
A crown of 1 nail across is then cut, to which the long strip (Fig. 15)
is evenly fulled all round with a piece of lace or edging let in all
round. The other side is fulled to the front of the cap, and the border
being put on, the whole is completed.
CHILD’S HORSE-SHOE CAP.
PLATE 2. FIG. 17, 18, 19.
SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES.
+------------------------------------------+--------+------------+
| | First | Second |
| ———————— | size. | size. |
+------------------------------------------+--------+------------+
| | Nails. | Yds. nls. |
|Proper width of material to cut | | |
| to best advantage | 15 | 12 |
|How much wanted for twelve caps | 14 | 1 12½ |
|Length of cap down the selvage | 6 | 8 |
|Depth of cap cut in the width of material | 2½ | 3 |
|Quantity sloped off at M | ½ | ½ |
|Length of horse-shoe crown | 2 | 2¼ |
|Width of ditto | 1¼ | 1½ |
|At what distance from the top begin | ½ | ¾ |
| to slope off | ½ | ¾ |
|To how much at the bottom, when doubled | | |
| it is to be sloped off | ¼ | ½ |
+------------------------------------------+--------+------------+
EXPLANATION OF THE FIRST SIZE.
This is commonly called the horse-shoe cap, from the resemblance of the
crown in shape to a horse-shoe. The length of the cap down the selvage
is 6 nails, and the width 2½ nails. Double it, (see Fig. 18, D being
the double part,) and slope at the top of the front, L, to the back,
M. The distance from M to O is 2 nails, therefore, half a nail is thus
sloped off. For the horse-shoe or crown (Fig. 17), cut a piece 2 nails
long and 1¼ wide; fold it length-wise in half, and half a nail from the
top, begin to round off the corner towards C, to form the horse-shoe;
then measure off at the bottom of the piece, while still doubled, a
quarter of a nail, which cut off from A to B, curving it a little to
give it a prettier shape. The cap is made up with two or three runners
in front: the head-piece is put into the crown, the gathers to be
rather fulled at B (Fig. 19), and nearly, if not quite, plain from D to
D. The frilling is one inch deep.
INFANT’S FRENCH CAP.
PLATE 2. FIG. 20, 21.
FIRST SIZE.
This shape is only used for infants, therefore, a scale is unnecessary.
It is very pretty, though but little worn, and never used for the poor.
The cap is 8 nails long down the selvage, and 2¾ wide. After doubling
it in half, fold it again from A to A, and then from A to B; shape a
quarter of a nail off the corners, in a semi-circular form. In the
front, D, measure 3 nails, and cut off the 1 nail, taking care to cut
by the thread, in an upright direction, for the distance of 1 nail, (P
G,) and then slope it off in a corner, to half a nail below the top.
In making it up, sew up the back neatly, and full the cap very equally
into the crown, which must be one nail across, when hemmed. Three or
more runners in front, and double frills, complete the cap.
Ribbon chin-strings to draw through loops on each side, on account of
washing.
COCKADES, ROSETTES, &c.
A few words on the rosettes and bows usually put on children’s caps,
hats, and bonnets, may not be unacceptable.
There are several kinds of these bows, of which the following are the
principal.
A cockade for an infant boy’s cap or hat. This is made of narrow white
satin ribbon, sewn on a small circle of buckram, which should be about
the size of half-a-crown. Begin at the outer edge of the buckram, and
sew the ribbon on in small loops or bows, round and round, until you
fill it quite up to the centre.
Lace cockade for a boy. This is often made of some costly kind of
lace, generally Valenciennes, and requires four yards. It should be
whipped at the edge, and sewn on to a piece of buckram or stiff muslin,
beginning at the outer edge of it.
When intended for a girl, it is called a rosette, and instead of being
round, it is an oval or long shape, and looks like several frillings of
lace sewn together, perhaps 1½ nail long. It is made in the same way as
the cockade.
A pretty and less expensive lace cockade or rosette, may be made by
sewing edging on each side of a broad piece of net, gathering the net
in the middle and running it upon a buckram circle or oval beginning in
the centre of it and working to the edge, making the lace stand as full
and close as possible.
Infants’ hats and bonnets have pretty trimmings of satin cut the cross
way, and about 1½ or 2 nails broad, on a buckram foundation, either
round for a cockade, or oval for a rosette; they are merely gathered
at one edge, and sewn on the buckram, as described above, beginning in
the centre. Being cut the cross way prevents the outer edge roving out
easily.
A simple little bow for a bonnet, or to fasten the neck of a dress
or pelisse, may be made as follows. Cut off a piece of ribbon 2½
nails long, and plait or gather it up in the middle; this is for the
ends: take another piece 3½ or nearly 4 nails long, gather it up in
the centre, and turn the two ends of it underneath, to the middle,
gathering them up also, thus forming two bows; lay these bows upon
the first piece, and sew them together in the centre, with strong
thread: to conceal the gathering, fold a small piece of the ribbon very
narrow, and tie or sew it round the middle of the bow, as if to hold it
together; this finishes it neatly.
INFANTS’ OPEN SHIRTS.
PLATE 2. FIG. 22, 23, 24, 25, 26.
Infants’ shirts are generally made of soft calico for the poor, and
very fine lawn or cambric, for the higher classes.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+
| ———————— |Small size.|Large size.|
+-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+
| | Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |
|Width of material, to cut out | | |
| to best advantage | 15 | 16½ |
|Quantity requisite for twenty-four shirts | 5 13 | 6 10 |
|Depth of shirt to be cut in the width | 5 | 5½ |
|Length of shirt to be cut down the selvage | 10 | 11 |
|Length of sleeve to be cut down the selvage| 1¼ | 1½ |
|Width of sleeve | 2½ | 3 |
|Gusset | bare nail.| full nail.|
|Slit down for the arm-hole | 1½ | 1⅔ |
|Space for shoulder | ¾ | ¾ |
|Slit for flaps | full nail.| full nail.|
+-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+
Either of the above sizes is very good for babies’ first shirts. The
small size fits the best for the first five or six weeks after the
infant’s birth, but with a large baby would soon be too small; the
second size, therefore, though rather too large to begin with, is
eventually the most useful. As it is advisable to avoid waste as much
as possible, the width of the material would best determine the size,
taking care, however, that it does not exceed the one, or be smaller
than the other of the above scales.
In cutting out 24 shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 22), cut eight lengths of
10 nails for the skirts (see A), eight lengths of 1¼ nails for sleeves
(see B), and three lengths of 1 nail (see C) for gussets.
In cutting out the first size, choose your calico of exactly 15 nails,
to admit of three shirts being cut in the width, of 5 nails long each.
The width of the shirt down the selvage is 10 nails. Fold the shirt in
half, and then double it again, so as to fold it in quarters (Fig. 27),
cut a slit down the two doubled parts in front for the arm-holes (see
O Q); take care that you do not cut your arm-holes at the wrong end of
the doubled part, they should be slit at the end where there are two
folded parts to slit down: make them 1½ nails deep, then leave a full
three-quarters of a nail for the shoulder (see O B), and slit down a
full nail to form the bosom and back flaps (see B D). The sleeves are
1¼ nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails wide, so that
three pairs will cut exactly in the width of the calico, if 15 nails
wide.
The gussets are a bare nail square; about eight pairs will cut in the
width. Fig. 26 is the appearance of the skirt after being cut out, when
half opened, so as to be doubled once. In making a shirt, hem it neatly
with a very narrow hem, unless there is a selvage at the bottom: hem,
also, the two sides and the flaps, taking care to do the last properly,
so as when falling over, to lie the right side outwards. Two narrow
tape strings are sewn to the corners of the middle flap, 7 nails long.
The shoulders are sewn and felled with very narrow seams; the gussets
are then sewn on the sleeves, which are very neatly hemmed. The sleeve
is set into the shirt, and fulled at the top in neat and very small
gathers. All the seams should lie particularly flat, and be as narrow
as you can make them.
INFANT’S SECOND OR CLOSE SHIRT.
PLATE 2. FIG. 27, 28, 29, 30.
When infants are about nine months old, they generally leave off using
the open or first shirt, and begin to wear the close shirt (Fig. 30)
until they reach the age of seven or eight years, when the usual shaped
shirt or shift is worn.
SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES.
+----------------------------------------------+---------+--------+
| |Child of |Child of|
| ———————— |8 months.| 2 yrs. |
+----------------------------------------------+---------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Width of material | 14 | 15 |
|Full breadth of shirt to be cut in width | 14 | 15 |
|Length of shirt to be cut down the selvage | 4 | 5½ |
|Length or depth of sleeve cut down the selvage| 1 | 1 |
|Width of sleeve | 3 | 3 |
|Gusset | 1 | 1 |
|Slit down the arm-hole | 1¾ | 2 |
|Space for shoulder | 1½ | 1½ |
|Slit for flaps | 1½ | 1½ |
|Slit for tail | 1 | 1¼ |
+----------------------------------------------+---------+--------+
+----------------------------------------------+--------+----------+
| |Child of|Child of |
| ———————— | 5 yrs. |7 or 9 yrs|
+----------------------------------------------+--------+----------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Width of material | 16 | 18 |
|Full breadth of shirt to be cut in width | 16 | 18 |
|Length of shirt to be cut down the selvage | 7 | 9 or 10 |
|Length or depth of sleeve cut down the selvage| 1½ | 2 |
|Width of sleeve | 3 | 3½ |
|Gusset | 1¼ | 2 |
|Slit down the arm-hole | 2¼ | 3 |
|Space for shoulder | 1¾ | 2 |
|Slit for flaps | 1½ | 2 |
|Slit for tail | 1½ | 2 |
+----------------------------------------------+--------+----------+
EXPLANATION OF THE FIRST SIZE.
Choose your lawn or calico 14 nails wide, if possible, to admit exactly
of one shirt in the width. Cut 4 nails down the selvage-way for the
length of the shirt.
Fold the piece in half, which will make it 7 nails wide when thus
doubled, make a slit down the doubled part of 1¾ nails deep for the
arm-hole, and put a pin in the two selvages to mark the depth of
the other arm-hole. Fold the shirt once more, so as to lay the two
arm-holes one upon the other, (see Fig. 27), and, at the top, from O
to Q, measure 1½ nails for the shoulder, and slit 1½ nails, making the
slit B D slope outwards towards the sleeve, about half a nail out of
the straight line, as bosom flaps shaped thus, set much better to the
figure, and also that part of the shoulder (Fig. 30, P) can be turned
over, and confines all straps, tapes, &c. neatly, so as to prevent
their being seen from under the frock sleeve.
The sleeve usually put in is 1 nail deep, to be cut down the selvage,
and 3 nails wide. The sleeve-gusset a full nail square, and the skirt
gusset half a nail square. (See Fig. 24.)
The shirt is made up as follows (see Fig. 30). Sew the two selvages
together (see R) with fine strong thread, leaving 1¾ nails above for
the arm-hole, S, and 1 nail below for the opening, or tail of the
shirt, U. The corresponding side, H, is double, so that the slit for
the arm-hole and for the tail have to be cut. Hem the bottom of the
skirt and up the tails, after putting in the gussets (or tail bits
as they are generally called). Some people think these tail gussets
unnecessary for young children; but they add so much to the strength of
the shirt, and give so little extra trouble, that they are well worth
the pains. Sew and fell the shoulders with flat narrow seams, hem the
bosom flaps, taking care to turn down your hems so as to be the right
side outwards, where the flap falls over. Set in your sleeves quite
plain, till nearly the top of the shoulder, and full in the remainder,
in very small neat gathers. Two tape strings are sewn at the corners of
the front bosom flaps.
Fig. 25 is another pattern of a sleeve which is very neat when worn,
as it is never seen below the frock sleeve; but it has a less finished
appearance than the other. This last shape, however, is preferable
for children from four to six years of age, from its strength and
simplicity, and is made as follows:—Cut a piece of calico two nails
square, which fold and cut in half, corner-wise (see Fig. 29); fold
this half square again, and the double part, D, falls under the arm,
E is set into the shirt, and H is hemmed neatly for the arm to go
through. The great advantage of this shape is, that the shift sleeve is
never seen from beneath the child’s frock, and therefore always sets
neatly (see Fig. 30, the sleeve to the right).
[Illustration: Plate 3.
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4
Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7
Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11
Fig 12 Fig 13
Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17
Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22]
INFANTS’ FIRST FLANNEL GOWNS.
PLATE 3. FIG. 1, 2.
This is an excellent pattern for an infant’s first gown, either day or
night, from the ease with which it is put on, and also for the warmth
and support it gives to the child. The body is made of flannel, lined
with very fine soft calico or lawn.
In cutting out the skirt, tear off two breadths of the proper length.
The long clothes of babies of the higher classes are longer than those
of the poor, as the latter would soon be tumbled and dirty, they should
be 13 or 14 nails, and for the former, about one yard is ample. Some
ladies dress their children in very long flannels and robes, but this
is as unnecessary as it is ill-judged; for the weight of the long
petticoats must be painful, besides the perfect inability of the poor
infant to stretch and kick about its little limbs, is obvious.
Divide one of these breadths in two, and pin a half-breadth to
each side of the whole breadth. Run firmly down the two seams, and
herring-bone them back again, and then bind with the flannel binding
neatly down the two sides of the front, and at the bottom of the skirt.
The body is 12 nails long to be cut down the selvage, and 2 nails wide.
About seven bodies can be cut in the width, flannel being generally 14
nails wide. Double the piece for the body length-wise, and stick in a
pin 1½ nail from the front or doubled part (see A B) to mark where the
beginning of the arm-hole lies. The arm-hole is 1¼ nail across, and ¾
nail deep; after cutting it out, slope the remainder of the body from
H to K in a straight line, to within a ¼ nail from the bottom at the
end, so as not to finish off in a point. A large opening, or sort of
button-hole is next made under the left arm-hole, to be ¾ nail long,
leaving about ¼ nail above and below it. It is thus made up: place
the soft lining upon the flannel, taking care that the wrong side is
outwards, and run them firmly together, pretty near the edge, along
the two sides, the top of the body, and round the arm-holes; after
which, finish your thread firmly off, turn the body inside out, and
stroke the lining and flannel smoothly together, by putting your hand
inside and pressing it gently all round. Next put the skirt into the
body; measure the middle of each and pin them together; afterwards, pin
the front or opening of the skirt at M, exactly half way between the
arm-hole and the end of the body (see O P). The skirt from M to O to be
set in plain, and then the remainder plaited up in about twelve small
equal plaits to the middle, taking care to turn the plaits so as to lie
outwards from the centre towards the point; the other half is then to
be fixed in, and with a strong thread, stitch the plaits to the flannel
body, laying the two rough edges together. When done, smooth down the
stitched part, and hem the calico lining to it.
The body should next be run neatly and firmly with very small stitches
all round, about ¼ inch from the edge. In the part from P to M, the
lining should be made so as to be a little seen on the outside, and
be hemmed down to represent flannel binding. The lawn or calico
shoulder-straps should be cut 1¾ nail long, and a button-hole worked at
one end, while the other is sewn on that end of the arm-hole towards
the middle. The slit or button-hole should be turned over neatly by the
lining, to appear as if bound all round. Two narrow tapes of 4 nails
long, sewn to the points, complete the whole. In dressing the infant,
the one end is drawn round through the slit, which makes it fit closely
and compactly to the figure, and yet be soft and elastic. Fig. 2 is the
representation of one folded as if on.
ANOTHER SHAPE FOR AN INFANT’S FIRST FLANNEL NIGHT-GOWN.
PLATE 3. FIG. 5, 6, 7.
This is a very good kind also, and the one in most general use, though
not equal to the one just described. It takes a breadth and a half to
make this petticoat, therefore it prevents waste if you cut out two at
once.
Cut your two breadths 14 nails long, or a yard, according to pleasure,
and measure along the width of one breadth (Fig. 5) 3½ nails from the
selvage (see A B), and put in a pin as a mark. Measure the same at the
other end of the width of the flannel, making your measurement from the
opposite selvage (see C D); then double your flannel smoothly across
from B to D, and cut it evenly along the sloping line.
The other breadth of flannel is torn exactly down the middle. Take one
of these halves, and let one of the above mentioned sloped pieces be
pinned on each side of it, taking care to place them with the sloped
part outwards (see Fig. 6, E E), and the smaller part of each sloped
piece be at the top. After running and herring-boning the two seams, P
P, you must cut out the top part of the skirt to form the body. First,
therefore, double the skirt very evenly in half, and beginning at the
end which is open, leave 3½ nails for the back, L L, and place a pin as
a mark; and also in order that the flannel, when once laid correctly,
may not slip out of its place. Measure 1½ nail for the arm-hole,
which you must also pin; then cut it out to the depth of ½ nail, L
O N, measure 1½ nail beyond for the bosom, N X, and then cut down 1
nail deep, in a straight line, X Y; after which, cut off the flannel
in a straight line, Y W, to the end. The gown, when opened, has the
appearance of Fig. 6, with a large piece cut out of the bosom in the
middle. The two sides of this gap in the bosom should be very firmly
run together about one inch from the edges; these edges then should be
laid open, so as to turn back, one on the one side, and the other on
the other, and very neatly herring-boned down; it will thus have the
appearance of two hems (see Z Z, Fig. 7). The skirt, which of course is
very full, must be set into two equal double plaits, and herring-boned
upon the body in the inside. The skirt at the sides must next be
set in two or three plaits (see F G, Fig. 7), so that, when plaited
up, the space from the arm-hole to the back be but 1½ nail. Bind or
herring-bone the top of the bosom, and make a string-case of soft tape
at the top of the back. Put in the tapes, sew on shoulder straps of
soft calico or tape, with button-holes, and put on the buttons at the
end of the arm-hole, towards the back.
ANOTHER INFANT’S FLANNEL GOWN.
PLATE 3. FIG. 4.
This shape is the one generally used by the lower classes, not only
for flannels, but for print gowns and petticoats; and is preferred
to others on account of the ease with which it is cut out, and also
because there is much less needle-work in the making up: there is,
however, some waste, which is an objection. The gown is 13 nails long,
but as there should be no seam on the shoulder, the two breadths must
be cut in one length of 26 nails, which is 1 yard 10 nails. Double it
in two, so as to be 13 nails long, and then fold it in half very evenly
down the middle, so as to make the four selvages lie exactly one upon
the other, and pin them firmly down to keep the folds in place; then,
after measuring 3 nails from the selvages at the top (see A S), to
determine the length of the sleeves, cut out the part S C D, to form
the neck of the gown. Observe that the part from S to C is a nail deep,
which should be nicely rounded off, and from C to D, the bosom is cut
straight along.
The gown is next shaped at the side; and to do so properly, put in a
pin at S, and fold it in a regular slope down to the bottom of the
gown. Measure down the slope from the top, S, the distance of 2 nails,
and put in a pin as a guide; cut off from the bottom upwards to T,
and rounding it off at the corner, slope along T K for the sleeve,
allowing 1½ nail width for the wrist. In making it up, the seams should
be joined with a mantua-maker’s hem, and a band should be sewn on
the inside of the front, to be 6 nails in length, and about 1½ nail
below the neck. Cut a button-hole in the gown at each end of the band,
draw with a bodkin a piece of tape through one hole, and fasten it
down at the other extremity of the band; do the same with the other
button-hole, so that on pulling the tapes, the gown will be drawn up,
and neatly fulled in front.
INFANT’S SECOND SIZE NIGHT-FLANNEL.
PLATE 3. FIG. 3.
This shape is used when infants are six or eight months old, and is
merely a double flannel body sewn upon the skirt, which is two breadths
of 12 nails in length.
The body is 11 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails
deep when doubled; therefore cut it 5 nails wide, and double it down
all the length very carefully. You must pin or tack it together evenly,
to enable you to cut out the arm-holes correctly. Then fold the body
in two, measure from the end two nails for the back, A, and cut out
the arm-hole 1 nail deep, and 1½ nail across. Open the body again,
unpick the tacking-threads, and run round the arm-holes with small
firm stitches on the wrong side of the flannel, also up the sides;
after which, turn the body inside out, and then make a large plait
in front as a support to the child; this plait ought to be so large,
that when made, only 2¾ nails will remain between the arm-holes,
instead of 4 nails. After herring-boning this plait neatly down, run
in small stitches all round the body (see the dotted line) at about a
¼ of an inch from the edge, to make the flannel lie flat, and give it
a finished appearance. Some people back-stitch it, and others prefer
making a line of very small herring-bone, or else chain-stitch it all
round. These last two modes are certainly more ornamental, but the
simple running is quite as neat, and saves much time; three tapes must
be sewn on one end of the body, at equal distances from each other, and
at scarcely a nail from the edge; the three tapes at the other end to
be sewn on close to the edge, and to correspond with the others, so as
to tie neatly with each other, and to allow of the body lapping over
nearly a nail. The shoulder straps of tape are sewn on, and are 2 nails
long, after allowing an extra half nail for turning in.
The skirt is sewn up, and not open as the others; the bottom is neatly
bound, the pocket-hole is torn down the middle of one of the breadths,
and is two nails long; it must also be bound all round. The skirt is
set into the body in small plaits.
INFANT’S FIRST SIZE DAY FLANNEL.
PLATE 3. FIG. 8.
SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES.
+-------------------------------+-------+-------+--------+--------+
| |Infant.| Child |Child of|Child of|
| ———————— | | of 6 | 2 or 3 | 4 or 6 |
| | |months.| yrs. | yrs. |
+-------------------------------+-------+-------+--------+--------+
| | Nails.| Nails.| Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of skirt | 16 | 12 | 5 | 6 |
|Length of body down the selvage| 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 |
|Depth of body | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | 3 |
|Space across the arm-hole | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 |
|Depth of arm-hole | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ |
+-------------------------------+-------+-------+--------+--------+
| ⁂ The space for the bosom and back is ascertained by dividing |
| the body in four, and cutting out the arm-holes according to |
| the Scale. |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
The body is made of fine jean or twill, lined with lawn; or, if for the
lower classes, of soft coarse calico, with plenty of nap upon it. The
body is 8 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 1¼ deep, so that
twelve bodies could be exactly cut in the width, if your stuff were 15
nails wide.
Fold the body in two, and, after measuring 1½ nail from the edge, cut
out the arm-holes, which are 1 nail across, and ¾ nail deep. Slope off,
both at the top of the back and at the bosom, about a ¾ of an inch,
to make it set better. The lining is next cut out, and both are run
neatly together, the wrong side outwards, near the edges, along the
sides and top, and round the arm-holes: when done, turn the body inside
outwards, and flatten it between your finger and thumb, so as to make
it lie flat. Afterwards back-stitch it, in beautifully even stitches,
all round the top and sides, at a little distance from the edge. Sew
on the shoulder-straps and tapes, putting three on each side; those on
one side to be set close to the edge, and the other three at about half
a nail’s distance from it. The skirt is about 14 nails or a yard long:
the two breadths are sewn together, and the pocket-hole torn in the
middle of the back breadth about 2 nails. The bottom is bound, as also
the pocket-hole, and the skirt set in the body in regular small plaits
at the sides, leaving it plain in the middle for about 2 nails.
ANOTHER CHILD’S DAY FLANNEL.
PLATE 3. FIG. 13.
This pattern is intended for children of six to ten years, previous
to their wearing stays. The body is made of fine jean, and lined with
calico; pieces of cord or bobbin are placed between the two in rows,
and fastened in by the needle, running the body and lining together
between each two rows. Rows of cord may be thus run in various
patterns, and, if neatly done, look very pretty.
The Plate is a sufficient guide for cutting out the body, without
further description. The skirt should be set in plaits in the middle,
and towards the ends. The shoulder-straps should also be of jean.
INFANT’S FLANNEL BAND.
PLATE 3. FIG. 12.
Infants require great warmth and support round the stomach and hips,
and for that purpose, wear flannel bands for the first ten or twelve
months.
Cut the flannel down the selvage 14 nails long, and 2½ nails wide.
It should be exactly 15 nails in width, to enable you to cut out six
without waste.
Herring-bone very neatly the top and bottom, and herring-bone a deep
hem of ½ a nail (see A) at one end, and a narrow one (see D) at the
other; then make two large plaits in the middle, to reduce the length
to 11 nails (see B C). These plaits will be about half a nail deep, and
should fall one on each side of the middle, and be herring-boned down.
The three strings on each side to be sewn as seen in the Plate; those
of the one side to be put at 3 nails from the end.
INFANTS’ FLANNEL PILCHERS OR SAVERS.
PLATE 3. FIG. 9, 10.
Infants often wear pilchers or savers, put over their napkins, to
prevent their clothes from being wetted. They are made as follows:—
Cut a piece of flannel 11 nails square, fold it in half, and cut it
crosswise, A B: it will make two pilchers. It must next be rounded
off a little at the two corners, A B, and at the third corner, E,
(which, observe, is opposite the cross-way of the flannel,) sew on a
piece of calico, in which cut a button-hole. The crossed part, A B,
is then neatly plaited into a calico band, 1 nail deep, when doubled,
and 8 nails long, and a button and button-hole sewn on at the ends. In
putting it on, first button the band round the waist in front, bring
the corner between the legs, and button it to the same button.
INFANTS’ NAPKINS.
PLATE 3. FIG 11.
Babies napkins should be made of soft diaper, or, if for the poor, old
sheeting, table linen, or strong fine linen answers well. Choose your
material exactly 10 or 20 nails wide. Napkins are generally made by
cutting the diaper in lengths of 20 nails, and doubling each length
in two. Sew nearly all round the doubled piece, taking care to turn
the raw edges outwards instead of inwards, as usually done, because
the napkin is turned inside out, when it is sewn all round, with the
exception of a space large enough to admit the hand, to enable it to be
turned. This opening is afterwards neatly sewn up with small stitches.
It is essential that the seam or outer edge of napkins should be as
smooth and soft as possible, on account of the tender skin of infants:
it is very desirable to soak and scald the material often before it is
used. Two strings and a tape loop may be added, to be used instead of a
pin, to fasten it on.
ANOTHER MODE OF MAKING NAPKINS.
The pieces, when cut off, should be merely hemmed like towels, and,
when used, are doubled and put on as the others. The grand advantage
of this simple sort is, that when there is but one baby, they come in,
after nursery use, for towels and other purposes, whereas the others
are comparatively useless.
INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN.
PLATE 3. FIG. 14, 15.
Night-gowns are generally made of calico or dimity, and sometimes of
fine twilled muslin. The calico are most frequently used, but the
dimity look the prettiest; they, however, often split, and are not so
durable as the former.
This pattern is the one usually adopted by ladies for infants: it
requires great neatness in the making up, to look well.
Let your material be about a yard wide, and cut two breadths of 18
nails long each. Fold each breadth very evenly down the middle, and
at one end stick a pin, exactly 2 nails from the selvages. Crease the
stuff from this point to about a nail from the bottom, and cut off the
gore. These gores come in for the two bands and wristbands. The former
are each 10 nails long, and 1 nail deep; the wristbands are 2½ nails
wide, and, when double, are ¾ nail deep: they should be nicely rounded
at one end. The sleeves are cut in the shape and to the size of Plate
4, Fig. 15.
After sewing up the seams, the neck and arm-holes are formed. The
shoulder is a little sloped, and is 1¼ nail long. The arm-holes are a
little curved, and 1¾ nail deep. The bosom and back are hollowed, and
the slit behind is 3 nails deep.
Procure a piece of strong insertion-work, 2½ nails long, and ⅔ of a
nail deep.
In making it up, first hem the neck of the gown, and, at ¾ of a nail
below the bosom, run the finest gathers possible, leaving a space of 1½
nail on each side, between the end of the gathers and the sleeve. The
gown is again gathered across, about a nail below the first gathering,
and then the insertion muslin is very neatly sewn on the gathers, with
very small even stitches; the two bands are next stitched, one at each
end of the insertion-work, and are rounded off at the ends. A narrow
frill of lawn is put round the bosom. The sleeves are fulled at the
top, and set in; they are either merely hemmed to admit a tape, and
a lawn frill sewn on them, or are put into wristbands, which should
button over. Instead of putting in insertion-work, some bias it at the
waist, which is thought to make it wear better.
Fig. 14 represents the front, and Fig. 15 the back of the gown.
ANOTHER INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN.
PLATE 3. FIG. 16, 17.
The skirt of this pattern is cut out exactly like the one before
mentioned, but is made up in a more simple manner. The gown, instead
of being gathered in front, is left loose, and a strip of calico, ½ a
nail deep, is sewn on in the inside, about ¾ of a nail deep from the
bosom, and of such a length as to leave, on each side, but two nails
space between it and the arm-holes. This piece of calico is to be used
as a string-case, and two small slits for tape-holes must be cut in the
gown, at about a ¼ of a nail distance, within each end of the strip.
The tapes should be rather broad, and each, on being drawn by a bodkin
through its slit, should be carried along the string-case and firmly
fastened down to the opposite end, so that, on pulling the two strings,
the gown is drawn up in neat gathers, forming a body. The sleeves are
cut down the selvage instead of crosswise, and are nearly straight,
the top being 4 nails wide, and the bottom or wrist, 2½ nails. A small
frill may be put on the bosom and wrists; or, if it is a coloured gown
for a poor child, a small runner to admit a bobbin, at the distance of
the width of a narrow frill from the edge, will, on being drawn up,
form a very neat frill both for the bosom and sleeves.
ANOTHER INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN.
This sort is only used by the poorer classes. It is made of coloured
print or soft calico, and is cut out exactly after the pattern of the
flannel bed-gown (see Plate 3, Fig. 4). The frills are formed by making
runners near the edge of the neck and wrists.
INFANTS’ PINAFORES.
PLATE 3. FIG. 18.
Pinafores are made of diaper, Holland, linen, or print. The former
are for ladies’ infants—the latter for the poor. The patterns vary
according to sex and age. The one generally used at first is as
follows:—
SCALE.
+---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+
| ———————— |First size.|Child of |Child of |
| | | 2 yrs. | 6 yrs. |
+---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length down selvage | 8 | 10 | 12 |
|Width of material | 11 | 14 | 15 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 2 | 2¾ | 2¾ |
|Piece left for shoulder | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ |
|Quantity hollowed out of neck | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ |
|Length of frill to each arm-hole | 10 or 11 | — | — |
|Depth of frill | ⅓ | ½ | ¾ |
|Distance from top for the second | | | |
| tape to be sewn on | 2 | 2¼ | 2½ |
|Size of gussets | ½ | ½ | ¾ |
+---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+
Procure your material exactly the proper width for the pinafore, to
prevent waste. Alter cutting off the pieces of the proper length and
width for the pinafores, take one piece and fold it down the middle,
length-wise, in two; then again fold it, and cut the slits for the
arm-holes by a thread. Pin it carefully together, still folded in
four, whilst you hollow out the neck, leaving the proper space for
the shoulders. Hem it at the top as you would a shift, by turning
down the hem, and then turning it backwards, the more readily to hold
it while you sew the hem firmly all round. The arm-holes should have
narrow hems, and be very firmly sewed at the bottom, or they will tear.
Whip and sew on the frills, hem the bottom, sew on the tapes, and the
pinafore is completed. Some people put gussets in at the shoulder: and
it is better to do so for elder children.
For further sizes, see School Girl’s Pinafore.
PINAFORE WITH LAPPETS.
PLATE 3. FIG. 19.
This shape is very much used by the poor, as it protects the sleeves.
The pinafore is cut out exactly as in Fig. 18; but instead of putting
on frills, little capes or lappets are substituted. These capes are cut
width-way of the size, according to the Scale.
SCALE OF LAPPETS.
+--------------------+-------------+--------------+
| ———————— | First size. | Second size. |
+--------------------+-------------+--------------+
|Length down selvage | 10 nails | 1 yard |
|Depth | 1 ditto | 1½ nail |
+--------------------+-------------+--------------+
The cape is rounded off towards the ends, and, after being neatly
hemmed, is whipped and sewn all round the arm-hole, making the ends
come under the arm. In front, the pinafore is confined with a band,
which is stitched firmly on in two places before, and which, passing
round the waist, buttons behind.
THE WASTE-NOT PINAFORE.
PLATE 3. FIG. 20, 21.
This is a particularly simple shape, being cut without any waste
whatever.
Divide the pinafore in four, and cut it according to the Plate.
SCALE.
Nails.
Width of material 12
Length of ditto 8
Space from A to B 1½
Space from B to C ¾
Space from C to D ¾
Cut from A to D, by which means a shoulder-flap is made, and, when on,
the shoulder-piece is raised sufficiently to prevent the necessity
of hollowing out the neck. A double plait should be sewn under the
arm-hole (see Fig. 21, A). This cape, being plain, is improved by an
edging of work, or a little braid, to add lightness to its appearance.
A BABY’S DRESS PINAFORE OR TIDY.
PLATE 3. FIG. 22.
Intended to be worn when the child’s frock is tumbled or untidy. It is
made of cambric or jaconet muslin. There are two breadths in it of 14
nails wide—one breadth in front, and the other cut in two, and sewn on
each side. The arm-holes are made in the seams, and frilled round, or
lappets sewn on. At the top in front, from shoulder to shoulder, the
pinafore is drawn up by a tape in the hem, and secured to the proper
size. The front is biassed into a band of insertion-work, to go partly
round the waist. The back is drawn by a string at the top, and again
below by a string-case. The front may be either simply biassed once
into the band, or it may have three or four rows of biassing. Round the
top is an edging of work, or a frill.
INFANTS’ PETTICOATS.
PLATE 4. FIG. 1.
SCALE.
+---------------------------------------+------+----------+--------+
| ———————— |First | Child of |Child of|
| |size. |18 months.| 2 yrs. |
+---------------------------------------+------+----------+--------+
| |Nails.| Nails. | Nails. |
|Width of material | 14 | 14 | 16 |
|Length of body down the selvage | 9 | 10 | 11 |
|Depth of body | 1¾ | 2 | 2¼ |
|Depth of arm-holes | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ |
|Width of arm-holes | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3 | 3 |
|Length of shoulder-straps | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Length of short sleeve when opened out | 4½ | 7 | 8 |
|Greatest depth of ditto | 2¼ | 2½ | 3 |
|Least depth of ditto | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ |
+---------------------------------------+------+-+--------+--------+
| ———————— |Child of|Child of|
| | 5 yrs. | 8 yrs. |
+---------------------------------------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Width of material | 16 | 18 |
|Length of body down the selvage | 12 | 13 |
|Depth of body | 2½ | 2¾ |
|Depth of arm-holes | 1½ | 2 |
|Width of arm-holes | 2 | 2¼ |
|Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3 |
|Length of shoulder-straps | 2 | 2¼ |
|Length of short sleeve when opened out | 9 | 10 |
|Greatest depth of ditto | 3½ | 4 |
|Least depth of ditto | 1½ | 2 |
+---------------------------------------+--------+--------+
Petticoats are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, or
fine calico, and should be about 14 nails wide. The skirt is 2 breadths
in width, and cut to the length required, after allowing for the deep
hem or tucks. They are usually cut the following sizes for the rich and
poor.
Nails. Nails.
First size 17 15
Three-quarter size 13 12
Small size 8 7
In cutting out the body, double the strip in two, and again in half, so
as to be folded exactly in four, and cut out the arm-holes according
to the depth and width wanted, as seen by the Scale. The sleeves
are cut out according to the pattern in Plate 4, Fig. 12 or 13; the
shoulder-straps are cut out, and the body is ready for making up. Hem
it along the top, sufficiently wide to admit a tape, stitch on the
shoulder-straps, sew and hem the sleeves, and gather them into the
shoulder-straps. The body should have rather wide hems at the two ends,
and a sufficiently wide hem at the bottom to admit a narrow tape. Full
the body in front, and sew it firmly to the skirt (which should be
previously gathered), making it lie pretty evenly all round. The top
strings should draw from the shoulder-straps only, and another string
may be run in the front to draw it, and tie on one side.
INFANTS’ FROCKS.
PLATE 4.
Are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, and print, and,
when the children are older, sometimes of nankeen, jean, Holland,
merino, cloth, stuff, and silk. Those for the poor are usually of
print, and are made according to the pattern for petticoats (see Plate
4, Fig. 1); those for the rich are made in various ways, among which
are the following:—
The full body.
The plain body, cut in one piece.
The plain body, with backs and fronts cut crosswise.
[Illustration: PLATE 4.
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4
Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7
Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11
Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18
Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23
Fig 24 Fig 28
Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 30]
SCALE FOR THE SKIRTS.
Width of skirt 2 or 3 breadths, so as to form from 14 to 16 nails wide,
when the skirt is double, as if made up.
Rich. Poor.
———— ————
Nails. Nails.
Length of skirt for first size 18 15
Ditto three-quarters size 12 or 14 10
Ditto short coats 8 8
Depth of hem at the bottom 4 1
Depth of slit to the skirt 2½ 2½
There are so many ways of making up skirts, that only a few will be
described.
Broad hems and tucks of various depths are the simplest and prettiest;
others are more ornamented by letting in work at the top of the broad
hem, or working with braid, bobbin, or cord. Robings are often brought
down in front, in continuation of the little capes sewn on the bodies.
These robings should be 1½ nail broad, sloped off to ½ nail, and
carried down to the bottom of the skirt, or to the top of a deep hem.
They should be sewn on so that the edge of the work is turned outwards.
The sleeves are made according to fancy, and are of the sizes marked in
the Scale, pages 35, 36.—(See also, Plate 4.)
FULL BODIES.
PLATE 4. FIG. 1.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------+-------+--------+--------+
| | | Child | Child |
| ———————— | First | of | of |
| | size. | 1 yr. | 3 yrs. |
|-------------------------------------+-------+--------+--------+
| | Nails.| Nails. | Nails. |
|Depth of body down the selvage | 1½ | 2 | 2¼ |
|Length of body width-way of the cloth| 14 | 16 | 20 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ |
|Width across arm-hole | 1½ | 2 | 2¼ |
|Length of waistband | 8 | 9 | 10 |
|Length of band for the hem at top | 8 | 9 | 11 |
|Length of sleeve-bands | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Length of shoulder-strap, if wanted | 1¾ | 2¼ | 2½ |
+-------------------------------------+-------+--+-----+----+---+
| | Child | Child |
| ———————— | of | of |
| | 5 yrs. | 8 yrs. |
|-------------------------------------+----------+----------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Depth of body down the selvage | 2½ | 3 |
|Length of body width-way of the cloth| 20 | 20 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1¾ | 2 |
|Width across arm-hole | 2½ | 3 |
|Length of waistband | 11 | 13 |
|Length of band for the hem at top | 12 | 13 |
|Length of sleeve-bands | 4¼ | 4½ |
|Length of shoulder-strap, if wanted | 2¾ | 3 |
+-------------------------------------+----------+----------+
In cutting it out, double the strip for the body once, and again in
half, and then cut out the arm-holes the proper depth and width. The
full body is made up in either of the following ways:—the first and
most simple, is by merely hemming it at the top and bottom, putting
wide hems at the ends, and then setting it upon the skirt, making more
fulness at the back and in front than at the sides. The sleeves are put
into the body with shoulder-straps.
The tapes are put in to draw from the shoulder-straps behind, at the
top, and another string to draw in front, also a tape all through the
waist-hem.
These simply-made frocks are very useful for fast-growing children, as
they will let out to the size wanted.
ANOTHER MODE OF MAKING UP.
PLATE 4. FIG. 2.
The other mode of making them up is the neatest in appearance. The body
is gathered at the top and set into a long narrow band, which forms
the hem and the shoulder-straps. The bottom of the body is also firmly
gathered, and sewn on with very strong thread to the skirt, which
is also gathered so as to let the fulness lie principally in front.
Sometimes the body is biassed in front in two or three rows, as in Fig.
2.
PLAIN STRAIGHT BODY.
SCALE.
+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | First |Child of|Child of|
| ———————— | size. | 1 yr. | 2 yrs. |
+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of body down selvage | 10 | 11 | 12 |
|Depth of body | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Depth of arm-hole | ¾ | 1 | 1½ |
|Width across arm-hole | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Length of band, if wanted | 8 | 9 | 9½ |
|Length of shoulder-straps | 1¾ | 2 | 2¼ |
|Length of sleeve-bands | 3 | 3 | 3 |
|Length of band at top | 9 | 10 | 10 |
|Length of each cape | 9 | 10 | 11 |
|Depth down selvage | ¾ | ¾ | 1 |
+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| |Child of|Child of|Child of|
| | 4 yrs. | 8 yrs. | 10 yrs.|
+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of body down selvage | 14 | 16 | 18 |
|Depth of body | 2½ | 2¾ | 3 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 2 | 2½ | 3 |
|Width across arm-hole | 2¼ | 2¾ | 3 |
|Length of band, if wanted | 10 | 11 | 12 |
|Length of shoulder-straps | 2½ | 2¾ | 3¼ |
|Length of sleeve-bands | 3½ | 4 | 4 |
|Length of band at top | 10 | 11 | 12 |
|Length of each cape | 13 | 14 | 14 |
|Depth down selvage | 1¼ | 1¼ | 1¼ |
+----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
Straight bodies are generally used for ladies’ children, and are
ornamented in different ways. Some are worked in bobbin-work,
coronation braid (see Fig. 4), common braid, or else work is let in;
and others with satin-stitch worked on the muslin, or very fine small
tucks, either horizontal or perpendicular (see Fig. 3). One or two
bodies will be more minutely described here, as a guide by which to
make others.
PLATE 4. FIG. 5.
Divide the body in half, so as to ascertain the middle, and run a
tacking-thread down it; run two others, one on each side, at the
distance of little more than ½ a nail from the middle, at the top,
and slanting down to the middle point at the bottom of the body; run
two others, at the distance of ⅔ of a nail on each side of the last,
slanting them towards the centre, at the distance of ½ a nail on each
side from the centre. These tacking-threads serve as a guide, by which
means the pattern can be done more regularly. Sew two bobbin-lines,
one on each side of each tacking-thread, leaving a small space between
them sufficiently wide for little oylet-holes, or some other ornamental
pattern, to be worked. Afterwards, sew on the bobbin neatly in
patterns, according to fancy. Put in the sleeves next, having worked
the bands and the triangular shoulder-bits to correspond with the
front. Next put on the capes. The whole should be trimmed with a little
edging or narrow work.
PLATE 4. FIG. 8.
The front is worked in fancy button-hole stitch, as in Plate 5, Fig.
19. The bands round the sleeves and the triangular shoulder-bits are
worked in rows of the same stitch. The capes are worked near the edge
with the horse-shoe stitch, as also the ends of the body (Plate 5, Fig.
20), and the edging is entirely of fancy bobbin edging (Plate 5, Fig.
18).
PLATE 4. FIG. 6.
Procure some pretty open work, in the style of that in the Plate, and
sew several strips together, always making the pieces narrower at the
bottom than at the top, in order to make them point towards the centre,
as in the Plate. A body made thus generally wears and washes very well.
The capes should be of some pretty work, and the whole trimmed with
edging to match the rest. The triangular shoulder-bits have a piece of
insertion-work inlaid in them.
BODY WITH HONEY-COMB STITCH.
This body has the side-bits cut as above, and the front is a triangular
piece of honeycomb-stitch worked and let in. In making the triangular
bit, lay the plaits very narrow and even, before working it in
honeycomb. For a description of the stitch, see Plate 1, Fig. 15, 16.
SLEEVES.
PLATE 4.
There are various sorts of long and short sleeves, some of which it
is impossible to describe clearly, and it will not, therefore, be
attempted. The most simple are the following:—
THE ROUND SLEEVE.
FIG. 1, 18.
SCALE.
+----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+
| | |Child |Child |Child |
| ————— | First | of | of | of |
| | size. | 1 yr.|3 yrs.|6 yrs.|
+----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+
| | Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|
|Size of square piece out of which | | | | |
| the circle for the sleeve is cut| 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
|Diameter of inner circle | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 |
|Length of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 |
|Length of sleeve-band | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | 3¾ |
|Depth of sleeve-band | ½ | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ |
+----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+
FIG. 18.
Cut your material into square pieces of the size wanted (in proportion
to the Scale), and double the square in half, so as to make it
triangular, or three-cornered in shape. Fold it in the same manner
again and again, as often as it will admit of being done; one side is
longer than the other, mark it with your scissors the same distance
on the long side from the point, as it is on the short, and cut it
directly across; by which means the square will become a circle, as
will be seen when opened. This circle should be hollowed out at one
side (Plate 4, Fig. 18), in order to make it set better under the
arm. Before opening the circle, a small hole should be cut at the
pointed end, to form the opening for the arm in proper proportion. The
shoulder-strap and band are next cut. Set the inner circle very neatly
into the band; after which, gather the outer circle and sew it to the
shoulder-strap, ready to put into the body. This sleeve is sometimes
confined by loops of ribbon, or little triangular pieces of work, as in
Fig. 2 and 6.
ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 4. FIG. 13.
PRINCIPALLY USED FOR PETTICOATS AND PLAIN FROCKS.
SCALE.
+----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+
| | Baby’s |Child of|Child of|
| —————————— |first size.| 2 yrs. | 4 yrs. |
+----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Measure of the largest depth | 2 | 2½ | 3 |
|Length of sleeve, when open, | | | |
| to cut crosswise of the material| 7 | 9 | 11 |
|Measure of the smallest depth | ½ | ¾ | 1 |
|Length of band | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ |
|Length of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 |
+----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+
It is better to cut this pattern (and indeed all patterns of sleeves)
in paper, before cutting your material, to prevent waste. The pattern,
when folded in half, resembles Fig. 13, being for the first size, and
is 2 nails deep from A to B, and 3½ nails long from B to C. The top,
from A to D, is sloped down, beginning at E, which is about half the
length, by which means the depth from D to C is only 1 nail. When
opened, the sleeve resembles Fig. 12. In cutting it out, turn up a
corner of your material (Fig. 12) in the form of a half-handkerchief, A
B being parallel to, or straight with C D. The pattern sleeve is laid
with the long straight end upon the crease, so as to lie crosswise. Cut
through the folded muslin carefully by the pattern, so that the _pair_
of sleeves is cut at once. The part which forms the bottom of the
sleeve is straight, and should be gathered into the band. The sloped
side is gathered or whipped into the shoulder-strap.
PLATE 4. FIG. 14.
The Scale is the same as Fig. 13 and 8.
This sleeve is the most favourite shape, and is cut out exactly like
Fig. 13; after which the part, A B, is sloped off at 1 nail from the
end, C. A triangular piece of worked muslin is hemmed round; the sleeve
is then neatly put into the arm-hole, with mantua-maker’s hem, or run
and felled, after which the rest of the sleeve is whipped and sewed on
to the triangular piece. These sleeves are generally made with a little
frill very much fulled, which forms a cape behind, and also in front;
the frill is therefore sewed on the sleeve neatly at the edge of the
triangular bit.
PLATE 4. FIG. 9, 11.
This is another variety of sleeve, and is very pretty for a young
child. It is cut out, in the first instance, exactly like Fig. 14;
after which it is sloped off in the shape of a triangle below, so that
the sleeve requires a triangular bit below, as well as on the shoulder,
for the sleeve to be fulled to. The bottom triangle should be cut with
the band, into which the sleeve is confined.
LONG SLEEVES.
PLATE 4. FIG. 15, 16, 17.
Long sleeves, if for bed-gowns and under clothes, may be cut according
to the bits of cloth left, to prevent waste, always remembering to cut
selvage-wise. They are generally the shape of Fig. 15, Plate 4. The
sleeve is sloped off from D to A, so as to cut about a nail off the
stuff (see D C). Slope in the direction D E, to make the wrist about 1½
or 2 nails wide. The part, A B D, should be hollowed. Sometimes it is
desirable to piece the sleeve when there are many bits; in which case
it may be joined across from B to E of the under double, taking care
that the muslin pieced on also runs selvage-wise. In cutting out long
sleeves, take care to cut them a pair, so that the joinings shall lie
outside, and the hollowed part towards the inside or front. From A to C
is 3½ nails.
Long sleeves, for dresses, spencers, &c., to be properly made, should
be cut as follows (Plate 4, Fig. 16 and 17):—turn up the corner of your
muslin to form such an angle as will just hold the sleeve, so as to
make the one side of the long sleeve lie along the selvage, as in Fig.
16, where, the sleeve being small, but little of the corner is turned
up, in which the sleeve, A B C D, exactly fits. The top corner, F, must
be sloped off, and the corner, D C, also, to the proper width for the
wrist, which is 1½ nail.
Fig. 17 is a better sort of sleeve, and is here introduced, though
it properly belongs to the table of sleeves in Plate 12, in which a
description and pattern of each size is correctly given. The corner is
turned up to a complete half square, so that A and B are parallel to C
D. From A to B is 6 nails; from B to D 5½ nails. From A to H, and from
B to C, are 1½ nail. Curve from H to E. From H to G are 5½ nails. From
E to F are 3½ nails. From F to G, 1¼ nail. This sleeve is called the
gigot, or gigot de mouton sleeve, from its likeness to a leg of mutton.
For further particulars, see Sleeves, Plate 12.
AN INFANT’S RECEIVER.
A receiver, or wrapper, in which an infant is put immediately on its
birth, previous to its being washed and dressed, is composed of the
finest Welsh flannel, with a soft warm nap upon it. This flannel should
be a perfect square, and is generally made of 2 breadths of flannel;
the width of the flannel must, therefore, determine the size of the
square, which should not be less than 24 nails, or more than 2 yards.
A soft piece of fine calico, linen, or cambric muslin, is taken, of
the same size, and they are bound together with flannel binding. This
receiver is frequently used afterwards by the poor in the double
capacity of coverlet and shawl, to carry the infant about in.
INFANT’S SHAWL.
For the first three months, infants should be carried about in a shawl,
not only on account of the warmth, but as a matter of security to their
tender heads and limbs, which cannot bear the hard pressure of the
nurse’s arm or hand.
These shawls for the nursery should be simply a square of flannel of 1½
breadth or 2 breadths. The best shawl, with which it is carried into
sitting-rooms, should be made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, or, what
is better still, of the fine thick Saxony flannel. These are usually
made with very deep hems, about 1½ nail of the same material, braided
with silk braid all round, and worked at the corners, or else the hem
is formed of pearl-white satin or rich silk; but these last spoil so
soon, that it is a great expense.
INFANT’S FLANNEL CLOAK.
PLATE 4. FIG. 19, 24.
It is recommended to all mothers to have a flannel cloak to wrap round
their infants when carried about in their night clothes, and when up at
night; and they will be found especially useful when the baby is old
enough to be dipped in a cold bath, or obliged to be put in a warm one,
as, on taking the child out of it, they can wrap it up entirely, and
almost rub it dry with the cloak itself.
The first size here mentioned will last a child well from its birth
until eighteen months or two years old.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------+--------------+-------------+
| | First size. | Child from |
| —————————— | |3 to 6 years.|
+-------------------------------------+--------------+-------------+
|Number of breadths of 14 nails | 3 | 3 |
|Length of skirt |1 yd. 4 nls. | 1 yd. 8 nls.|
|Distance of arm-hole from top | 4 nails | 5 nails |
|Length of arm-hole | 2 do. | 2½ do. |
|Collar (see Plate 13, Fig. 3) | column 4 | column 2 |
|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13, Fig. 1)| | |
|Large cape, if wanted | 2 breadths | 2 breadths |
+-------------------------------------+--------------+-------------+
| | Child from |
| —————————— | 6 to 9 years.|
+-------------------------------------+--------------+
|Number of breadths of 14 nails | 4 |
|Length of skirt | 1 yd. 12 nls.|
|Distance of arm-hole from top | 6 nails |
|Length of arm-hole | 3 do. |
|Collar (see Plate 13, Fig. 3) | column 2 |
|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13, Fig. 1)| |
|Large cape, if wanted | 2½ breadths |
+-------------------------------------+--------------+
The cloak requires two flannel shoulder-pieces to make it strong. Full
the skirt very evenly all round to the proper size, and then laying the
edge between the edges of the two shoulder-pieces, which should be held
so as to fall back or down against the skirt, one on each side, sew, or
rather back-stitch them very firmly together. When this is done, turn
up the shoulder-pieces on each side, so that the edges are completely
hidden on both sides of the cloak. Sew the collar neatly on to the
other two edges of the shoulder-pieces, and conceal the rough edges by
means of a wide string-case of soft tape or calico.
The cloak is bound with flannel binding, and the arm-holes also; they
are either opened in the seam, or if that would make them too far back,
they should be cut in the flannel at once, at the proper distance. A
deep cape might be added as the child grew older, or if it were sickly
and required additional warmth.
CHILD’S BIB.
PLATE 4. FIG. 25.
This is often used by mothers for their children while cutting their
teeth, to prevent the moisture from their mouths wetting their chests
and the bosoms of their frocks. It is made of three or four folds of
fine diaper, sewed together on the wrong side, and turned inside out,
to conceal the edges, it is hollowed to fit under the chin, and made to
tie with a ribbon round the neck.
INFANTS’ PELISSES AND CLOAKS.
PLATE 4. FIG. 20.
Infant’s first cloaks are generally made of some warm material, as
cloth, merino, kerseymere, or wadded silk. The last-mentioned, though
pretty, soon spoils, being easily injured by wet, and the colours
of those parts near the baby’s chin fly and look shabby; merino and
kerseymere are decidedly the best for the purpose, and look equally
neat and handsome. There is a kind of fine but thickly woven flannel,
particularly strong and elastic, and well adapted for children’s shawls
and cloaks. It is called Saxony flannel, but is rarely to be procured
at country shops, and seldom of any colour but white. It is about 1 and
1½ yard wide, and varies from 3_s._ 2_d._ to 5_s._ per yard: for the
lower orders, cloth, stuff, nankeen, gingham, or print, are the most
serviceable.
INFANT’S LONG PELISSE.
PLATE 4. FIG. 20, 21, 22, 28.
It must be made of two or more breadths, according to the material; as
the widths vary exceedingly, it is impossible to lay down a definite
rule further than this; that the whole width round the bottom should be
from 30 to 33 nails; and at the top sloped off to 24 nails.
Supposing the material to be of wide width (say 20 nails), half one
breadth would be wide enough for the back, and one whole breadth
crossed according to Fig. 22, would form the two fronts. Observe that
the two straight sides of the crossed pieces are set in front.
SCALE.
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| | First | Second |
| —————————— | size. | size. |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|
|Length of skirt | 1 3 | 1 0 |
|Width round the bottom, about | 33 | 30 |
|Sloped off at the top to reduce the width to | 24 | 24 |
|Length of shoulder | 2 | 2¼ |
|Sloped off from the shoulder | ½ | ½ |
|Length of arm-hole | 2 | 2½ |
|Arm-hole curves into the skirt (see Fig. 28) | ½ | ½ |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 5 | 6 |
|Width of ditto | 5 | 6 |
|Double the sleeve selvage-wise, and slope off| | |
| for the wrist to | 1½ | 2 |
|Case for string sewed on inside | 4 | 5 |
|Whole length of band | 10 | 11 |
|Cape, according to Plate 13, Fig. 31 | | |
|Collar, according to Plate 13, Fig. 13 | | |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| —————————— | Third |
| | size. |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+
| | Nails. |
|Length of skirt | 14 |
|Width round the bottom, about | 30 |
|Sloped off at the top to reduce the width to | 24 |
|Length of shoulder | 2¼ |
|Sloped off from the shoulder | ½ |
|Length of arm-hole | 3 |
|Arm-hole curves into the skirt (see Fig. 28) | ½ |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of ditto | 6 |
|Double the sleeve selvage-wise, and slope off| |
| for the wrist to | 2 |
|Case for string sewed on inside | 6 |
|Whole length of band | 12 |
|Cape, according to Plate 13, Fig. 31 | |
|Collar, according to Plate 13, Fig. 13 | |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+
The sleeves, collar, &c. should be cut from the remaining half-breadth
of the cloth.
If the material be but 10 or 12 nails wide, 3 breadths must be used,
and the two front breadths sloped off to the proper width at the top.
In making up the pelisses, the front breadths are lined with silk or
sarsenet, as also the top part or body, collar, cape, &c., but the back
breadth should be lined with cambric muslin. The hem at the bottom of
the skirt is about 1½ nail deep, while that up the sides and round
the cape and collar are but ¾ of a nail. Take notice, in cutting your
collar and cape, that allowance must be made for the hems.
The skirt seams are sewed up, as well as the lining, and joined
together by means of the broad hem round the bottom; the shoulders,
arm-holes, and sleeves are next completed, after which the neck is
finished by making a hem at the top, and drawing a tape through it,
which is fastened down at both ends after the skirt has been drawn up
to the proper width which should be about 1 nail wider than is required
to set round the neck. A strong case of ribbon or other soft material
is next put round the neck inside, through which a ribbon is drawn and
fastened in the middle. This ribbon, of course, ties in front.
For children’s short pelisses, see Plate 14.
CLOAKS FOR SUMMER.
PLATE 4. FIG. 23.
This is a very simple and remarkably neat looking pattern for a second
sized cloak. It looks well when made of twilled muslin, cloth, nankeen,
print, and especially fine dimity. The material should be about 1 yard
3 nails wide, in which case one breadth and 14 nails is sufficient for
the skirt, which should be one yard long.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.|
|Quantity required for one at 19 nails wide | 3 14 |
|Width of cloak at the bottom | 2 1 |
|Length of ditto | 1 0 |
|Size of sleeves, both width and length | 5 |
|Length of wristband down the selvage | 3 |
|Width of ditto | 2 |
|Length of band | 12 |
|Width of ditto | 2 |
|Collar cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 3 | column 2 |
|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13, Fig. 4) | column 1 |
|Length of cape down the selvage | 7 |
|Whole width of ditto | 2 0 |
+-------------------------------------------+----------+
The remaining 5 nails off the second breadth of the skirt may be cut
into collar, shoulder-piece, &c. The cloak has a broad hem laid on
all round, which the cape and collar have also, to form which, strips
should be cut selvage-wise of 1¼ nail, and sometimes worked muslin
edging of a neat but open pattern is put on all round.
About 9 or 10 yards of the strips are required, and, as frequent
joinings look ill, it would be better to cut off a piece of the
material a yard long, from which all the strips can be taken off; 9
strips of this length will only take 11¼ nails out of the breadth;
therefore, if economy is a great object, 10 strips might be cut in the
breadth of but 10 nails deep, which would cut up the breadth without
waste.
Yds. nls.
Material for Cloak and most of the et ceteras 2 0
Ditto for long cape 14
Ditto for strips 1 0
—— ——
3 14
If the strips are often joined, 3 yards 8 nails.
In making up the cloak, the shoulder-piece is piped all round, and the
skirt fulled evenly into it. The collar is then sewn on, and a casing
made at the top, to admit of a ribbon. The broad hem is next laid on
all round, and the sleeves put in. At the waist, the casing is sewn on
inside, and the band outside, the back may be confined to the band or
not, at pleasure.
INFANT’S FIRST HOOD.
PLATE 4. FIG. 26, 27, 29, 30.
This is the most approved shape for infant’s first hoods, whether they
are boys or girls, owing to its warmth and softness, and also for the
comfort with which an infant can rest its head on its nurse’s shoulder.
They are generally made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, satin, silk,
nankeen, or indeed of any material similar to the cloak. Kerseymere,
lined with silk or satin of a pale colour is particularly pretty and
suitable, from its simplicity.
[Illustration: PLATE 5.
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 10
Fig 3 Fig 4
Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 12 Fig 14 Fig 15
Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 13 Fig 16
Fig 30 Fig 31
Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21
Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29]
Cut a piece along the selvage, 7 nails long, and three nails wide;
double it in half its length, making it only 3½ nails. Let F A (see
Fig. 27) be the doubled part, and on the opposite end, measure off one
nail from C to B, and cut it off in a direct line from B to A. F D is
the front of the hood. The horse-shoe crown (Fig. 26) must be cut next,
for which take another piece of 2¼ nails long, down the selvage, and
2 nails wide. Fold it half the width, and slope off a third of a nail
from the bottom, B to D, also round off the top. For the tippet or
curtain, form a perfect circle, from a square of 8 nails, from which
take out the triangular piece (see Fig. 30, A B C), the distance from B
to C being 2 nails along the line. In making up the hood, cut a lining
of silk or satin the same size; also one of fine flannel, wadding, or
demet; then sew the crowns into the head-pieces of each of the three
materials separately. The merino hood may be piped with silk or satin,
braided with silk braid or worked in chain-stitch, with netting silk,
round the horse-shoe crown, after which, place the flannel lining
between the merino and silk, and stitch them firmly together with
small neat stitches, as close to the piping or braid as possible.
Next run them all together at the edges, admitting a piece of chip or
thin whalebone to give a little stiffness. Two runners are made three
quarters of a nail from the edge, and from each other; these runners
must be of sufficient width to admit the three-penny width ribbon.
These ribbons are fastened at one side of the hood, and drawn up to
the proper size, and then tacked down at the other, leaving sufficient
ribbon to allow of the hood being undrawn entirely, when it is wanted;
another ribbon is put behind. A rosette of satin ribbon is worn on the
left side, if a boy, and in front, if a girl, and a small bow behind.
The curtain is sewed on plainly along the horse-shoe, but fulled from
thence to the ears.
These hoods will draw out to last a child twelve months after its
birth, and will clean well, when of merino.
For children’s hats and bonnets, see Plate 19.
COVER FOR A BASSINETTE.
PLATE 5. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4.
A bassinette (see Fig. 4) is a very small cradle made of wicker-work,
about 3 feet long, 18 inches wide, and 15 inches high. It is very
useful for carrying about, and may be set upon a table, sofa, or bed,
taken in a carriage, or even upon the lap with little inconvenience.
For a delicate child, and in the winter, it is very desirable, being
much warmer than a larger cradle.
Bassinettes are fitted up with a coloured lining under a thin dimity
or muslin covering. The lining is sometimes made of white, blue or
pink satin or silk, but more generally, and more sensibly, of glazed
calico. It should be put on the outside of the wicker-work, and also
very neatly fulled in regular folds inside it. The cover is made about
half a yard deep down the selvage, and 4½ yards wide. When all the
breadths are sewed together, a deep hem is made at the top, with a
runner for a string (the hem and runner together to be about 1 nail).
If the material is thick, it is better to sew to it, quite plainly, a
deep frill, of a finer texture, to give it lightness, instead of having
the frill made of the same; through the runner pass a tape, which will
draw it all round to the proper size, to fit the body of the cradle;
a second hem at the bottom will also be required for the same purpose
(see Plate 5, Fig. 1). The head-piece, Fig. 2, is made, so that when
drawn up, it will fit the head of the bassinette. Cut a piece of ½ a
yard down the selvage, and 1 yard 2 nails in width. As there must be
no seam in the width, if the material be not wide enough, it would
be better to cut the width down the selvage-way instead. It must be
doubled in half the width (the 1 yard 2 nails), see Fig. 2, and sloped
off from B to C in a very gradual curve, the space from A to B is 3
nails. Hem each of the two straight sides, and make a runner from B to
C for a tape. Next full the straight part, D A, to the exact size round
the front of the head; let the fulling lie towards the middle, and when
ready, sew on the double frill, which is made of fine clear muslin. The
frill, Fig. 3, is cut in strips width-way, of 3 nails each; sew these
strips together till you have about 4 yards length of frilling; make a
narrow hem on each side of the frill, and then begin to put it upon the
front, or fulled part of the head-piece; for this purpose, double the
frilling exactly in half, and while thus doubled, allow from the centre
¼ of a nail for the frilling, and make another even crease all along.
Open the frills, and turning down at the one side, begin to run; and,
dividing it, of course, into quarters, gather it evenly; when done,
sew it firmly to the cover, at within ¼ of a nail from the edge; after
which, turn down the other outer crease at the proper distance from the
centre of the frill, and do the same with it; when ready, sew it on to
the edge itself of the head-piece. This frilling should stand up well,
and not he flat against the cover; for this end, not quite so much as
¼of a nail should be allowed between the two seams. A ribbon the same
colour as the lining runs through the puffing, and fastens the cover on
in front, while the tape or ribbon, through the other runner, ties it
at the bottom of the head, and draws it up to the right size.
CRADLE COVER.
PLATE 5. FIG. 5, 6, 7, 8.
A cradle merely requires a little drapery over the head, to form
curtains, in order to guard the infant from the sun, or from draughts
of air, while asleep, and to give an air of comfort and cleanliness.
The drapery should always be perfectly white, of dimity, twilled
muslin, or other neat strong material. Some ladies put covers of thin
muslin over a coloured lining, but nothing looks so well as perfectly
white curtains. The dimity, &c. should be about 1 yard wide; take two
breadths of the proper length from the head of the cradle to the floor,
about 14 nails, pin them evenly together, and sew up the seam from A to
B (Fig. 5), about the distance of ½ a yard, but this must be determined
by the cradle, observing to sew up until it begins to curve. As the
curve must be cut while the material is fitted on the cradle itself,
the dimity should be pinned along the bottom of the cradle from A to
E, and also from A to B at the back. Then fit it accurately by pinning
the breadths exactly, though easily together, along the curve, allowing
enough for shrinking in washing, and when nicely fitted on, cut off the
superfluous part and stitch it along, while on the cradle; the rough
edges may afterwards be turned over, and hemmed down. The remainder of
the dimity in front, is intended to hang over the cradle top, to form
little curtains; hem round each side, and connect them together with
small stitches, by running a cord up one hem, and down the other (Fig.
5, C D), the piece is drawn up to a small compass. This drawn up piece
will require a bow or rosette of muslin (see Fig. 8); the whole piece
may be trimmed with fringe, or turned up with a piping, which, if the
cover be lined with glazed coloured calico, should be of the same. A
loop of cord should come from underneath, and encircle the rosette (see
Fig. 8).
For noblemen’s families, these covers are sometimes edged with silk
fringe, or turned up with silk or satin, to accord with a lining of the
same.
CRIB COVERS.
PLATE 5. FIG. 16.
These are generally made with a horse-shoe back, reaching from the top
to the bottom of the crib; it is piped all round, and a piece of the
proper width to go from side to side over the hoops is cut selvage-way,
and either sewn plainly or fulled on to the horse-shoe back. This
piece may either be finished in front like that over the cradle head,
by drawing it up, and thus forming curtains; or two half-breadths may
be fulled evenly round to this head-piece. Crib covers are frequently
lined with blue or other coloured calico, which is sometimes made
larger than the cover, to admit of being turned up so as to form a
little border outside.
INFANT’S HANGING COT.
PLATE 5. FIG. 9.
This is a convenient shape, as it easily takes to pieces when not in
use. The sides are either made entirely of wood, when no drapery is
necessary; but they are usually merely frames to which ticking or any
other material is fixed.
If it is furnished with ticking, it is laid on plain, though almost any
other material, which will not wash is laid in plaits or fulled. The
material is bound all round, and nailed on at the inner side, after
which, an inside lining of glazed calico, or other material is put.
If the material is a washing one, glazed calico, chintz, twill, or
white dimity is used; and this last is particularly neat and nice, and
in the country might be made to keep clean a long time; the pieces
should be fulled into some strong binding, to which very small loops
might be sewn, large enough to admit of the nail to confine it firmly
to the crib, so that when the covering is removed for washing, the
loops alone are torn by the nails, and they can be easily replaced.
The head drapery is similar to that of Fig. 16. Cotton fringe and gimp
set all round, both above and below, gives a pretty finish to the
whole. The ropes of the cots should be often looked to, and frequently
renewed, as they wear out quickly, and the child’s safety depends on
their strength.
THE TRAVELLING COT.
PLATE 5. FIG. 10,11,12, 13.
This is a most convenient crib for mothers to use when travelling with
young children, as it is extremely light, and can be put up in two
minutes, and if kept in a leathern case, with straps (see Fig. 10),
it can easily be attached to the roof, or below a carriage, and be
perfectly free from damp.
The stand (see Fig. 13) is made of strong beech-wood, and when taken
to pieces, is in seven parts. The upright posts are fastened together
two by two, by the short bits of wood, A and B, which are screwed tight
into the legs by long iron screws, with brass heads. The long bar, C D,
connects the two sides together also, by means of screws. These screws
should be attached to the posts or bars they belong to, by a string,
as the loss of one would render the crib unsafe. The lower parts of
the four posts are much thicker than the upper, to give support to
the crib. This is formed of five pieces of wicker-work (see Fig. 11),
the bottom and four sides. The four sides are fastened firmly to the
bottom, allowing, however, ample room to give full play for the sides
to fold backwards or forwards. At each extreme corner is fastened a
ring of iron, brass, or strong wicker-work. These rings are so placed,
that when the sides are turned up to form the crib, the two rings at
each corner shall slip over the top of each post of the stand, by which
means all will remain firm.
The wicker crib should be 4 feet long, 2 feet 6 inches wide, and 15
inches deep. The one narrow end might be made deeper to give more
protection to the head; and one or two hoops might be put into a ring
or staple at the sides of the wicker-work, by which means a head-piece
is easily made.
The stand posts should be 30 inches high, letting from E to G be 13
inches, from G to H, 7 inches, and from H to J be 10 inches.
The head drapery might be made similar to Fig. 15. The lining should
be very simple and easily put on; also very warm, on account of the
open wicker-work sides. Wadding or flannel should be quilted well
over, between two folds of Holland, coloured glazed calico, or chintz,
and made to tie on inside. This lining should be very thin, else it
will take room in packing. When the crib is packed up, the posts are
unscrewed, and the basket is folded with the sides inwards, so as to
require as small a case as possible. A pillow from any bed is all that
would be required, as bedding for the crib.
A child’s cradle or crib contains the following articles:—
A mattress, which should be 1 nail thick, made of ticking or
Holland, and stuffed with wool or horse-hair.
Some ladies have their mattresses filled with finely cut chaff, others
with sea-weed or with beech leaves. Chaff keeps particularly dry, and
is cool and pleasant to lie on in the summer.
A bed, which should be very thin, and made either of best feathers
or down.
A pillow, also thin, and made of down.
Three blankets, made of thick Welsh flannel, and bound round with
flannel binding, or worked with coloured worsted.
One coverlet, of which some can be procured made for the purpose;
or, if not, the material sold for toilette covers will answer as
well, if it is light.
A head-piece, or drapery for the head.
To which may be added a pair of calico sheets, if the child is
some months old; otherwise they are not sufficiently warm for them
to lie upon: an Indian rubber or a leathern sheet, to prevent the
feather bed from getting wet, and the ticking decayed; a foot
flannel, or piece of flannel 2 breadths square, bound round, to
wrap up the child’s feet.
BABY’S BASKET.
PLATE 5. FIG. 31.
A baby’s basket should be lined either with the finest dimity or
cambric muslin; in the latter case, an inner lining of coloured glazed
calico or silk is often added. The cover should be very full—about
three times the length round the basket, or more. After cutting the
strips width-way, and sewing together sufficient to form the length
required, make a small hem or runner along one side; after which,
another is made about ½ a nail or more from it, according to the exact
width of the ledge at the top of the basket. Upon the outer of these
two runners is sewed a double frill, and between this and the inner
runner, slits are cut in the proper places to admit the four handles,
which are neatly hemmed round. At the bottom, on the other side of the
strip, there is also a runner, through which a cord is drawn. A piece
of the dimity is next fitted to the bottom of the basket, after which,
the strip that goes round it being drawn up evenly, it is sewed on very
neatly and firmly to the bottom piece. To the four corner strings are
sewed, which being passed through the straw work of the basket, tie the
cover firmly down to it.
The strings for the top are put in as follows:—four long pieces of cord
are cut off, about 1½-yard each; they are doubled in two, so that one
end is only a ¼ of a yard long: these cords are sewed firmly in the
runner, each to the one side of each of the four handles, letting the
short end of the cord be drawn through the runner at that shortest side
next the corner, while the long cord has to be drawn past the handle
and along to the furthest corner, where, on meeting the short end of
another cord, it is tied firmly under the ledge of the basket. Of
course these cords cannot be run in until the covering is actually upon
the basket.
It may not be considered as out of place here, to state the usual
contents of a basket, when prepared for an infant at its birth.
At the bottom, after putting in the bottle, with its leather or
parchment suck, the other things are placed in the following order:—
The large flannel shawl, the calico bed-gown, night-flannel, night-cap,
shirt, napkins, flannel cap and band, soft towels, sponge, hair brush,
powder-bag, or box. Quite at the top are the receiver, the pincushion,
with large and small pins, large pair of scissors, and a ball of strong
thread or fine twine.
THE PINCUSHION.
PLATE 5. FIG. 17.
“The satin cushion chequered o’er
With shining pins, this motto bore.”
—THE MOTHER.
One kind, out of the numerous sorts known to every body, is alone
mentioned here, as being the best, on account of its steadiness and the
depth, which renders it safer, should it chance to get into the hands
of a young child.
It is rather longer than it is broad, being about 7 nails by 6 nails,
and nearly 3 nails deep. This will hold the largest pins without danger
of their pricking through to the other side. The top and bottom should
be made alike, with a frill all round, as seen in the Plate. These
pincushions are sometimes made of muslin over satin or silk, but, if
intended to be useful, white dimity is by far the best.
THE LEATHER SUCK FOR BOTTLES.
PLATE 5. FIG. 15.
As most of the articles used by infants have been entered upon in turn,
it is considered advisable to mention also the mode of making and
fastening on the leather or parchment suck to the bottle. The suck is
cut in the shape of the figure, so that when doubled down the middle,
it resembles the upper part of the thumb of a glove. The two sides
and the top are either joined together in the button-hole stitch or
back-stitch; and if the latter, the suck must be turned inside out,
that the smooth side may come in contact with the infant’s mouth. If
mothers follow the rather dangerous practice of putting a bit of sponge
inside the suck, it should be first well tied round and fastened to
the nose of the bottle, and the string brought round the ledge of the
hole (see Fig. 15), and brought again to the nose of the bottle and
fastened. The sucks are merely fastened on by a strong thread wound
round the nose.
LINING FOR CHAIRS.
PLATE 5. FIG. 30.
These little chairs, without legs, which are so useful to set upon
the table or floor, for those children to sit in who cannot support
themselves safely, should be softly lined throughout. A piece of
flannel and wadding, cut to fit the chair, should be quilted together
with the material the chair is to be covered with, either Holland,
chintz, or calico. The whole should be very neatly bound, and then
sewn or tacked on to the chair. A little cushion, stuffed with bran
or horse-hair, should be put for the seat. These chairs should have
sticks, with large knobs to screw on at each end. They should also
be made with the sides or arms to lay flat, or turn up and fasten
at pleasure, as they can, when flat, be easily packed in a trunk or
laid under the carriage seats; and these comforts, when travelling,
are well worth attending to. These little chairs, when the child can
walk, come in nicely for swings, when, of course, the sides require
lacing up firmly. For the baby’s night-chair should be made a flannel
cushion to sit upon. Three or four doubles of flannel, cut to the size
of the seat, with a hole stitched round in the centre, and run over in
diamonds, is both neat and serviceable.
A child’s travelling night-stool is so great a convenience in the
carriage, during long journeys, that it is here mentioned, though
there is little to be said as to its fitting up. The lid should be
covered with cloth, stuffed well with horse-hair or wool, to make it
soft as a seat. This cloth should be nailed all round with smooth
brass-headed nails. The lid should open with a spring, and the seat
inside be covered with soft quilted flannel or Indian rubber cloth. The
pan, which is of block-tin or crockery, should have a lid made to fit
it tightly. These little stools should be about 9 inches high, and 10
inches square.
CHAPTER VI.
WOMEN’S SHIFTS.
PLATE 6.
Shifts are generally made of fine Irish linen or calico, for the
upper classes, and of stout linen, or strong but soft calico for poor
children.
Shifts are cut out differently, according to the width of the cloth. If
it is wide, the shift takes 2 breadths in the skirt, and gores are cut
off from the top to sew on the bottom to widen the skirt.
If the cloth is still wider, so as to admit of only 1½ breadth in the
shift, or else very narrow, so that 2 breadths are barely sufficient,
the shift is crossed. The tops vary, as do also the shapes of the
sleeves. The following are those generally worn.
SCALE FOR GORED SHIFTS.
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| | Largest | Smaller |
| ———————— | size. | size. |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|
|Width of material | 14 | 14 |
|Quantity required for one | 3.. 2 | 2.. 14 |
| Ditto ditto for six |18.. 12 |17.. 4 |
|Length of skirt, cut in one piece | 2.. 12 | 2.. 8 |
|Width of piece to gore off at the top | 2½| 2 |
|Space to leave for the shoulders | 1¾| 1½|
|Depth to hollow the bosom | 2¾| 2½|
| Do. to hollow the back | 2 | 2 |
| Do. of flaps, if preferred | 3 | 3 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage for Fig. 1 | 6 | 6 |
|Depth of sleeve | 3 | 3 |
|Size of gusset | 3 | 3 |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| | Second | First |
| ———————— | size. | size. |
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|
|Width of material | 13 | 12 |
|Quantity required for one | 2.. 7 | 1.. 15 |
| Ditto ditto for six |13.. 11 | 9.. 11 |
|Length of skirt, cut in one piece | 2.. 2 | 1.. 10 |
|Width of piece to gore off at the top | 2 | 1¾|
|Space to leave for the shoulders | 1¼| 1 |
|Depth to hollow the bosom | 2¼| 2 |
| Do. to hollow the back | 1¾| 1½|
| Do. of flaps, if preferred | 2½| 2 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage for Fig. 1 | 5 | 5 |
|Depth of sleeve | 2½| 2¼|
|Size of gusset | 2½| 2¼|
+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+
[Illustration: PLATE 6
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4
Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7
Fig 20 Fig 8 Fig 16
Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11
Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 17 Fig 18
Fig 19]
In goring a shift, the 2 breadths may be cut in one length, to prevent
a seam on the shoulder. Fold your piece of cloth in two, and pin the
sides very accurately together, or with long stitches tack them up the
selvages. Next double the shift in half its length, from A to B, and
put in pins to mark the crease in the middle, C C. Unfold the shift
and double it again very carefully the width-way, so as to let the
four selvages lie very evenly one upon another. Measure from the top,
B, the space, B D, to be cut off, crease the linen in a straight line,
from D to C, and cut it carefully off through the four thicknesses
of cloth. The gores thus cut from off the top are reversed and sewed
on to the bottom, to widen the skirt. The dotted lines in the Plate
shew the width of the cloth, and the dark clear lines are intended to
represent the shape of the shift. When the gores are sewed in, shifts
are generally hollowed out at the back, and may either be also hollowed
in front or have a flap cut, as seen in Fig. 2. The hollowing at the
back is not so deep as in the front, therefore, great care must be
taken in cutting the one not to injure the shape of the other; and in
order to insure the two halves of each side being cut to correspond,
it is advisable to cut the shape of the parts to be hollowed out in
paper, to lay the paper on the linen, and cut by it. When the breadths
are cut separately, as in some cases they must be, the seams on the
shoulders should be sewed previously to the parts behind and before
being hollowed. If the flap in front is preferred, it may either
be cut straight down, as in Fig. 2, or in a slanting direction, as
the shoulder in Fig. 6. This last plan is usually followed, and a
button-hole is worked near the front of the shoulder-strap, which,
being folded over to a button sewed on the shoulder-strap of the stays,
neatly confines all straps, &c., in the fold.
SCALE FOR FIG. 6.
+-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+
| ———————— |First size.|Second size.|Third size.|
+-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of shoulder-strap | 4 | 3½ | 3 |
|Widest width of ditto | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¼ |
|Sloped off to | ¾ | ¾ | ½ |
|Length of plaited sleeve | 8 | 7 | 6 |
|Depth of ditto | 2½ | 2 | 1½ |
|Size of gusset | 2 | 1½ | 1½ |
|Length of sleeve-band | 4½ | 3¾ | 2¾ |
|Width of ditto | ½ | ½ | ½ |
|Length of bosom gore |1 full nail| 1 | ¾ |
|Width of ditto at the top| 1 | 1 | 1 |
+-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+
There is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift, and, from its
simplicity and economy, is preferable to any other. The shoulder-straps
are cut separately from the skirt, which is, consequently, cut shorter,
and is made quite straight at the top. The shift, after being gored or
crossed, has little bosom gores put in front. The top is then hemmed,
both before and behind, and the straps put on. A neat frill may be
added, to give a finish to the whole.
The sleeves are sometimes cut out of the width of one of the breadths
of the skirt, when the material is a little too wide; but unless you
have linen of an awkward width by you, it is a wasteful plan, as the
strip thus cut off is generally twice as long as the quantity required
for the sleeves. Observe, if this plan be adopted, to cut off the
length for the sleeves all in one piece, and not length by length from
each separate breadth, as much waste would arise from so doing. If the
sleeves are to be made as in Fig. 2, they may be cut in one length,
sleeve and gusset together, down the selvage (see Fig. 17, 18, 19),
and so many lengths in the width of the cloth. If they are to be made
according to Fig. 6, an extra nail in length must be allowed for the
plaiting. The gussets are reduced in size, according to the Scale, and
a band to gather the sleeve into, at the bottom, is neatly stitched.
CROSSED SHIFTS.
PLATE 6. FIG. 3, 4, 5.
SCALE.
+----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | Largest| Second | Third |
| ———————— | size. | size. | size. |
+----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| |Yds. nls|Yds. nls|Yds. nls|
|Width of material | 1 0| 14| 12|
|Quantity for one, not including sleeves | 2 12|2¼ 0| 2 0|
|Quantity for six, not including sleeves | 16 8|4½ 0| 12 0|
|Length of skirt | 1 6|1¼ 0| 1 0|
|Width of skirt, when sewed up, should be| 1 0| 14| 12|
|Part to mark off at top and bottom, | | | |
| at opposite corners | 10| 9| 8|
|Width of skirt at the top, when sewed up| | | |
| and double | 11| 10| 8|
|Width of ditto at the bottom, when sewed| | | |
| up, and double | 1 4|1 2| 1 0|
|Sleeves for one | 6| 6| 5|
|Sleeves for six | 1 5|1½ 0| 15|
+----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
Before crossing a shift, sew the 2 breadths or the 1½ breadth,
whichever it happens to be, together, and next, after flattening the
seams with your thumb nail, crease the skirt, so that these two seams
shall lie exactly one upon the other, and tack or pin them firmly
together; or, to give a neater effect, the seams are brought, one in
front and the other behind, so as to divide it in exact thirds. Fig.
4 represents the skirt when sewn up, A A being intended for the seam.
Measure off 1¼ nails at the left hand of the top B D, and on the right
hand of the bottom B D of the skirt, and double it from D to D, as in
Fig. 5; and that you may be sure your measurements are accurate, it
is better to double it again upwards, at X and Y, so that B D at the
bottom, should lie upon B D at the top, and the corner C upon C, as in
Fig. 3. If they do not exactly correspond, the shift is not correctly
folded. After pressing these creases with the hand, unfold C from C, as
it was before (see Fig. 5), and cut evenly from D to D. The skirt must
then be turned. The two wide ends are for the bottom—the two narrow
ones for the top of the shift.
It is made up as follows:—After sewing and felling the seams, and
hemming the bottom, the hem at the top must be turned down, as if for
hemming, and then turned back again and sewed all round, which is much
stronger than a common hem. The sleeves are generally set in plainly,
excepting, of course, in those intended to be full, as in Fig. 6.
CHILD’S SHIFT.
PLATE 6. FIG. 9, 10, 11.
This is a particularly neat pattern for a child from five years up to
any age, and is generally the first shift used after leaving off the
little shirt which is seen in the baby-linen.
As these shifts consist of 1½ breadth of 9 yards long, an even number,
as 2, 4, or 6, should be cut out at the same time to prevent waste.
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------------------+------------+
|Width of Irish linen | 12½ nails |
|Length of ditto | 9 do. |
|Number of breadths | 1½ breadth|
|Width of shift at the top, when gored, and double | 8 nails |
|Width at the bottom, when double | 11 do. |
|Space left for shoulders | 1½ do. |
|Depth of slit for lappets | 2 do. |
|Depth of arm-hole | 2¾ do. |
|Whole length of sleeve, including gusset | 4½ do. |
|Depth of sleeve | 1½ do. |
|Length of shoulder-flap | 3 do. |
|Width of ditto | 1¼ do. |
|Length of lining | 7 do. |
|Width of ditto | 1¾ do. |
+--------------------------------------------------+------------+
Two gores, of 2¼ nails at the top, and ¾ of a nail at the bottom, are
cut off the whole breadth (see Fig. 9), which reduces the body to 8
nails at the top, and 11 at the bottom, which is the proper width of
the shift. These gores are sewn on to the half-breadth, which makes it
exactly correspond with the other side. After sewing the two halves
together, leaving 2¾ nails from the top for the arm-holes, cut down
the slits for the bosom flaps 2 nails deep, leaving 1½ nail space for
the shoulders. Next, cut out the sleeve flaps (see Fig. 11) of 1¼
nail deep, and 3 nails long, and, after hemming them all round, sew
them with firm small stitches to the shoulder. At the edge, B, sew on
a piece of tape, in which make a button-hole, which buttons over the
shoulder to the button, K, and confines all straps, as seen in the
sleeve marked A, in Fig. 11, where the flap is represented as turned
back over the shoulder, as it is when worn; whereas in the sleeve,
marked B, the flap is unturned. The sleeves are hemmed all round, and
then one end is turned up to form the gusset, to one side of which the
other end of the sleeve is sewn, as in Fig. 17, 18, 19; they are then
put plainly into the arm-hole, which must be previously hemmed.
The lining is put in last, and is turned down once a deep fold, all
round. It is neatly felled inside to the shift. The lining is 7 nails
long, and 1⅓ nail wide. It is sewn in a little below the arm-hole, and
carried over the shoulder to the corresponding place on the other side
of the shift. Strings are sewn to the points of the flaps, both before
and behind. Children’s sleeves are sometimes fulled on the shoulder.
The work should be close and strong. The flaps are sometimes made of
fine lawn, edged with a cambric frill or worked muslin, and allowed to
lie over the shoulder, outside the dress, which has a clean and neat
appearance.
A SECRET WORTH KNOWING.
HOW TO SAVE ONE SEAM AND TWO FELLS IN MAKING UP TWO SHIFTS.
PLATE 6. FIG. 12, 13, 14, 15.
This is a useful hint for those who make up much linen at home. It is
done as follows:—
Take 3 breadths of the wide-width cloth, and sew them all together
like a bag; then lay two of the seams very exactly one upon the other,
and either pin or tack them firmly together; fold the whole piece in
half, width-wise, so as to have four thicknesses of linen lying upon
one another. Cross it like a common shift, Fig. 15, measuring it top
and bottom to see if it is even, and it will cut into four pieces, one
of which, Fig. 12, will have no seam at all; one, Fig. 13, will have
a straight seam down the middle; the other two, Fig. 14, have each a
piece like a gore on one side. These shifts, when neatly made, are just
as serviceable and as good as those cut in the usual way, and it saves
a great deal of work.
PLATE 6. FIG. 8, 16.
This is a pretty variety of sleeve, and is most suitable for young
children. It is intended to fall over the frock. Fig. 8 represents the
shape of the sleeve when cut out, and Fig. 16 when it is finished. The
sleeve is cut all in one piece, taking care that the slope of the flap,
C, when turned back, corresponds with the slope of the sleeve, D. The
sleeve and flap are frilled with cambric, work, or lace. The advantage
of this shape is, that both sleeve and flap are in one.
TROWSERS OR DRAWERS.
PLATE 7.
These are worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost
all ages, under the different names of trowsers and drawers. They are
made in a great variety of ways. Those mentioned here are the kinds
most generally approved. Drawers for ladies and children are usually
made of calico, twill, and cambric muslin. Those ladies who are
invalids, or who ride much, frequently wear flannel or wash-leather
drawers, with or without white calico leglets. For men, drawers are
composed of very strong twill, calico, linen, flannel, and stockinet.
CHILD’S TROWSERS.
PLATE 7. FIG. 1, 2.
This is a child’s first pair of trowsers, and should be made of fine
twill or calico. Each leg is cut in one piece, and, when folded, is 4½
nails wide; therefore, to prevent waste, the material should be 9 nails
in width.
Cut off the 2 breadths for the two legs, of the proper length, and
observe the following directions:—
SCALE.
+------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Width of material | 9 |
| Length of each breadth | 9 |
| Fold the breadth in half its width | — |
| Measure from A to B, Fig. 2 | 4 |
| From E to C | 2 |
| From F to B | 4 |
+------------------------------------+--------+
Slope off from A to C, and cut from A to B, taking off ½ a nail from
the width at the top.
In making, sew up the legs and join them at the seam in front, leaving
them open behind, with a broad hem on each side, formed by laying
a strip of the same material at each end, which is run at the edge
on the wrong side, turned over to hide the stitches, and hemmed or
back-stitched near the edge. The legs are then tucked, and the work
or frill sewn on. The whole is next set into a band, ¾ of a nail deep
when doubled, and 5 nails long, which buttons behind. Shoulder-straps,
with button-holes, are attached to the trowsers by means of buttons
before and behind. This plan is far more convenient than that of
sewing on the straps, as, when they are only buttoned on, if it is
necessary to change the trowsers in the course of the day, they may be
simply unbuttoned without undressing the child, and the clean trowsers
fastened to the shoulder-straps, which still remain over the shoulder.
[Illustration: PLATE 7
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 20
Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 21
Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 22
Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 17 Fig 19
Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 18]
A CHILD’S LARGER TROWSERS.
PLATE 7. FIG. 3, 4.
This resembles Fig. 1 and 2 in every respect, excepting that the top is
sloped or hollowed at the back.
Procure your material 10½ nails wide, to admit exactly of one leg being
cut in the width.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of each breadth | 10½ |
| Fold it in half, letting D be the double part | — |
| From the top to B | 1 |
| From B to A | 4½ |
| From B to F | 4 |
| From F to E, or the half-breadth | 5¼ |
| From F to H | 5½ |
+-----------------------------------------------+--------+
Slope from G to E, and again from E to C, through A; after which, cut
at the top of one fold from A to B, and of the other from B to C. Take
care to cut the pair to match, so that the outer, or hollowed parts of
the legs should rise, the one towards the right, and the other towards
the left side. These are made up in a similar manner to Fig. 1.
GIRL’S TROWSERS.
PLATE 7. FIG. 5, 6.
Each leg of these trowsers is also made in the entire breadth.
Procure your material 10 nails broad.
Cut each breadth 8 nails long, not including the tucks, which, if they
are deep, will add about 2 nails more. Supposing it but 8 nails long,
cut as follows, after folding the breadth in half its width.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B | 1 |
| From B to C | 4 |
| From C to E | 3 |
| From F to G, or the entire half-breadth | 5 |
+-----------------------------------------+--------+
Slope from E to G. Cut in a straight line from G, past C, to H. Cut one
fold from C to B, and the other from H to B.
If the tucks require 2 nails length in addition to the above size,
continue the width of the legs, the same as from C to E (3 nails), to
the end.
In making up, sew the trowsers up before and behind, and cut two slits,
one on each side, to the depth of 3 nails. These slits have broad hems
laid on all round them; to form which, cut two strips of 4½ nails long,
and 2 nails broad; split each length down the middle, to within 1½ nail
from the end (see Fig. 2). This strap is laid close to the edge and run
all round the two sides of the slit, turned over, and hemmed down. This
false hem greatly strengthens these slits.
The whole is then set into two bands, one for the front, and the other
for the back of the trowsers. These bands are 5½ nails long, and ¾
of a nail wide, when doubled. A button-hole is strongly worked, in a
slanting direction, at each corner of the bands, by which they are
fastened to two buttons sewed upon the stays.
TROWSERS FOR A BOY OR GIRL.
PLATE 7. FIG. 7, 8, 9.
This is a pretty body and trowsers, and is very suitable to little
boys, especially if they are at all delicate, being particularly warm.
The body is composed of one middle piece, 6 nails long, and two side
pieces, 3½ nails long each. They are 2½ nails deep, and, when sewed
together, the middle is hollowed so as to make it only 2¼ nails.
The trowsers are made as follows:—
Width of material, 12 nails.
Length of each breadth, 11½ nails.
Fold each breadth in two (see Fig. 8).
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B | 3½ |
| From A to C | 4½ |
| From C to H, half the breadth, or | 6 |
| From C to E | 6 |
| From E to F | 5 |
+-----------------------------------+--------+
Slope from H to B; also from H, past F, to G, at the top of the
breadth, whence it is cut to E, for the hollowed fold, while the under
one is cut straight from E to F.
This trowser opens at the side; there is also a small opening in front
(see K, Fig. 7). The body is hemmed all round, and sewed on plainly
to the front band of the trowser, but it is left loose, as in Fig. 7,
beyond the arm-holes on each side. The two bands button to each other
at the sides, the body ties behind, and may, or may not be fastened
also to the band of the trowsers at each side, having button-holes to
correspond with the buttons. A little pocket should be sewed inside the
slit down the sides, as in Fig. 9, where it is represented as if drawn
out, or turned inside out.
LEGLETS.
PLATE 7. FIG. 10.
These are useful to put over the legs of children’s trowsers, when they
are soiled or tumbled, before it is necessary to put on an entirely
clean pair. They are usually made of some finer material than the
trowser itself, and look well for an evening, when they are of fine
cambric muslin, with open work, or small tucks. They are fastened by
three or four buttons and button-holes or loops, the buttons being
sewed to the trowsers. Sometimes the trowser itself only reaches to the
knee, and leglets are always attached to it, by means of small buttons;
they should be put on pretty closely, to make the leglets fit well, say
six or eight on each leg; button-holes are made to correspond in the
leglets. They are especially advantageous for children who play a great
deal out of doors, or who live in a town, they will sometimes soil one
or two pair in a day.
WOMEN’S DRAWERS.
PLATE 7. FIG. 11, 12.
These are formed of two separate legs sewed into a band, which is made
to button before or behind, at pleasure. For a moderate size, Fig. 12
will be a good guide.
Width of material, 14 nails.
Length of each breadth, 15 nails.
Fold each breadth in half its width, letting D be the doubled part, and
measure as follows:—
SCALE.
+------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B is | 4 |
| From B to C | 8 |
| From C to G | 7 |
| From C to E | 7 |
| Cut in a straight line from A to E | — |
| From F to G | 1 |
| From F to S | 5 |
+------------------------------------+--------+
Cut in a straight line from S to G; cut also from E to Z, the point Z
being within ½ a nail from the side. Hem the bottoms of the legs, after
sewing up the seams, and hem round the slits, or open part; set them
into the band, making them overlap each other (see Fig. 11). The band
is 11 nails long, and 3 nails wide.
ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 7. FIG. 13, 14.
Some persons, both ladies and children, wear bodies attached to their
drawers, as in the figure, which represents a child’s size.
Procure your material 10½ nails wide.
Cut each breadth 9 nails long.
Let D be the doubled part, and mark as follows:—(Fig. 14.)
SCALE.
+-------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B | 2½ |
| From A to E | 4 |
| From E to B | 5¼ |
| Slope from B to B | — |
| From E to G | 4 |
| From the top to G | 1 |
+-------------------+--------+
Cut from G to H, H being 4½ nails from the doubled side.
Cut from H to C.
Let the body be 2½ nails deep, and 10 nails long, fold it in four, cut
out the arm-holes, and sew on the shoulder-straps.
In making up the trowsers, sew the legs together in front, after they
have been run up, leaving them open behind, and laying on a broad tape
(see T T, Fig. 13), sew on the body, and it is completed.
TURKISH TROWSERS.
PLATE 7. FIG. 15, 16.
These Turkish or full trowsers are often worn by little girls.
Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit one leg exactly in the
breadth.
Cut each breadth the proper length, say 9 nails long.
Fold each breadth in half, letting D be the doubled part (Fig. 16.)
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B, or the width of the doubled breadth | 5 |
| From B to C | 4 |
| From the top to E | 1 |
| From E to F | 4 |
+--------------------------------------------------+--------+
Cut one fold from E to F, and the other from E to G. Cut from G to C in
a straight line.
In making, sew up from B to C, and either gather the bottom, A B, into
a band, to which a frill is set on, or else make a deep hem to admit of
a ribbon, which draws it up to the proper size, and ties in a bow. To
this hem is sewed a broad frill or handsome piece of work. The latter
is the most convenient plan of the two for the washerwoman, as the leg
will lie quite flatly to be ironed.
TROWSERS FOR A LITTLE BOY.
PLATE 7. FIG. 17, 18, 19.
This is a particularly good pattern, and very suitable for a boy.
Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit of one leg in the breadth.
Cut each breadth 7½ nails long.
Double the leg so as to leave 2 nails unfolded, or rather, fold it to
within two nails of the selvage. Let D, Fig. 19, be the doubled part.
From A to B is 2 nails, and is not double. From B to C is 4 nails, the
one fold being cut in a slight curve from B to C, and in a sweep from A
to C. The bottom of the leg is 3 nails wide. Slope from G to C, G being
nearly 2 nails from the bottom.
The body is 10 nails long, and 2½ nails deep; fold it in four, and cut
out the arm-holes (see Fig. 18).
In making, sew up each leg from K to G, and hem round every other part;
next, make the body, hemming it all round, after which, sew the legs
firmly to the body, making the flap, A L C, of one leg, overlap or lie
across the flap of the other leg. These two flaps, after being firmly
set into the band, are farther secured by back-stitching them together
along the dotted line. Fig. 17.
MEN’S DRAWERS.
PLATE 7. FIG. 20, 21, 22.
These are men’s strong drawers, made of coarse twill or calico.
Procure your material 14 nails wide.
Cut each breadth 13 nails long.
Fold the breadths in half, letting D, Fig. 20, be the doubled part. The
drawers are quite straight at the top, the piece, C H F, being an extra
bit put in (see Fig. 20).
[Illustration: PLATE 8
Fig 1 Fig 4 Fig 12
Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15
Fig 5 Fig 16 Fig 19
Fig 2 Fig 6 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 20
Fig 3 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 21 Fig 25
Fig 9 Fig 22
Fig 10 Fig 23 Fig 24
Fig 11]
SCALE.
+-------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B | 3¾ |
| From C to E | 4¼ |
| From the top to G | 5 |
| From F to E | ½ |
+-------------------+--------+
Cut from G to B, and one fold from G to E; the other is from G to F.
A triangular piece is put in at the top of the back, of 3 nails in
continuation from F to H.
The pair of drawers has two bands of about 7 nails long each, and 1½
nail deep, when doubled.
In making, sew up the legs, and put on the extra piece at the back.
Sew the two legs together at the back, and hem the slit on each side
in front. Set each leg into a separate band, leaving them open before
and behind. Work four little oylet-holes in the band behind, to admit
tapes, which are laced through them and tie; in front, metal buttons
are put, and button-holes made. Down each leg, in the front, a broad
tape or piece of strong calico is laid, to strengthen it. A slit of
about 2 nails long is made at the bottom of each leg. Broad tape is
laid on round each leg at the bottom, forming a sort of hem, and oylet
holes are worked on each side of the slit, for tape to come out at,
which draws them to the proper size.
Fig. 20 represents the back of the drawers cut out.
Fig. 21 represents the back of the drawers made up.
Fig. 22 represents the front of the drawers made up.
WOMAN’S NIGHT-JACKET.
PLATE 8. FIG. 1, 2, 3.
SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES.
+--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+
| | Woman. | Girl of |Girl of |
| | | 18 yrs. | 12 yrs. |
+--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|
|Width of material | 14 | 14 | 12 |
|Quantity required for one | 2 10 | 2 3 | 1 13 |
|Quantity required for six |15 1 |13 2 |10 14 |
|Quantity required for twelve |31 8 |26 4 |21 12 |
|Whole length of body to be doubled | 1 8 | 1 4 | 1 0 |
|Space to leave for shoulders | 3 | 2¾ | 2½ |
|Length of sleeves down the selvage | 10 | 8 | 6½ |
|Width of ditto, two in breadth | 7 | 7 | 6 |
|Length of collar down the selvage | 8 | 7 | 6½ |
|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 3½ | 3½ | 3 |
|Length of wristband down the selvage | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ |
|Width of ditto, or four in the breadth| 3½ | 3½ | 3 |
|Length of binder down the selvage | 4½ | 3½ | 3 |
|Width of ditto | 1 | 1 | 1 |
|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2¾ | 2½ |
|Size of neck-gusset | 1½ | 1¼ | 1 |
|Width of frill | 1¼ | 1 | ¾ |
+--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+
Night jackets for the higher classes are made of linen, lawn, cambric
muslin, and fine calico; also of dimity and twilled calico; and for
the lower orders, of linen or calico. The calico should be soft and
strong; and the unbleached or grey calico, as it is usually called by
Linen Drapers, is warmer and often more durable than the white.
Fig. 1 represents the plan or picture of a piece of cloth of the
proper width, on which all the parts for forming a woman’s jacket are
accurately marked, with the exception of the shoulder-straps, which, as
they do not fit in, might be made of any extra bits.
Cut out the two breadths of the skirt in one length, to avoid a seam
on the shoulder. Fold it very exactly in half, and, after leaving 3
nails at each end of the folded side, to allow for the shoulders, slit
open the neck from A to G, after which, measure carefully and find the
middle of the neck, C, and slit it down to the bottom, D, to form the
opening in front of the jacket.
The sleeves, which are 10 nails long, and the two cut in the width, are
either sloped off towards the wrist, fulled into a wristband, as in
Fig. 10, or else neatly run, at a sufficient distance from the edge,
to form a kind of frill (Fig. 9). This running is done in two rows,
extended nearly all round the cuff, and neatly stretched upon a piece
of tape, which is laid inside, and carried all round the cuff.
Fig. 3 represents a plan for cutting out twelve jackets, which is the
most economical number, cut out at once, to avoid waste. The pieces in
the Plate are marked with the initial letter for their use, and the
width of the piece, thus, S 7, signifies sleeve 7 nails wide. On the
left hand of the plan is marked the length of each piece, and on the
right hand is set down the number of those lengths required to be cut
to form the set complete, thus, 12 L means 12 lengths. The frills are
generally of fine lawn or cambric, or else corded, jaconet, checked, or
other muslins.
NIGHT-GOWN.
PLATE 8. FIG. 5.
SCALE.
+------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+
| | | | |
| | Woman. | Girl of | Girl of |
| | | 18 yrs. | 14 yrs. |
|------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|
|Width of material, if gored | 15 | 14 | 12 |
|Width of gore to be cut off each | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 |
| side at the top | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Width of the bottom will be | 18½ | 17½ | 16 |
|Width across the top will be | 11½ | 10½ | 8 |
|Quantity required for one | 4 1 | 3 8 | 3 0 |
|Quantity required for two | 7 13 | 6 8 | 5 11 |
|Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1¼ 0 | 1 0 |
|Depth of slit in front | 6 | 6 | 5 |
|Space to leave for shoulders | 2½ | 2½ | 2 |
|Slope of shoulders | 1 | 1 | ¾ |
|Width of binders | 2 | 1½ | 1½ |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 |
|Width of sleeves or two in | | | |
| the breadth | 7½ | 7 | 6 |
|Length of sleeves down the selvage | 9 | 8 | 8 |
|Width of wristband (if required) | 2 | 2 | 2 |
|Length of wristband down the selvage| 4 | 3½ | 3 |
|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2 | 3 |
|Depth of frill | 1¼ | 1 | ¾ |
+------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+
This shape is not so much worn as that of Fig. 4, nor perhaps has it
so neat and finished an appearance, but on many accounts it is the
most desirable, being in the first place, more economical; it also
washes more easily, and above all, is particularly convenient in time
of sickness, when it is very essential to a weak or suffering person
to be able to draw open the gown at the neck and wrists, so as to have
full play for the arms in changing her linen, or having blisters,
leeches, &c. applied; whereas those night dresses confined at the neck
in collars are very irksome, and cause much unnecessary suffering in
being removed. The scale and plans so clearly explain the size, shape,
&c. that nothing remains to be said, except that a band is sometimes
worn round the waist, with a narrow frill sewn round the ends, which
are sloped off, according to fancy.
It is better economy to cut three or six gowns together, as the
gussets, binders, &c. take about the third of a breadth, so that in
cutting out one, there is an unavoidable waste of the other two-thirds
of a breadth. The two sleeves cut in the width, and are, for the
largest size, 9 nails long.
ANOTHER NIGHT GOWN.
PLATE 8. FIG. 4.
It is more economical to buy your material of a sufficient width to
merely gore it, if only one gown is to be cut out.
It is better to cross the skirt, and use 1½ breadth of very wide
material, if six are to be cut.
SCALE FOR CROSSED SKIRT.
+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+
| | | Girl of | Girl of |
| ———————— | Woman. | 18 yrs.| 14 yrs. |
+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.|
|Width of material | 18 | 16 | 14 |
|Quantity required for six | 18 14 | 16 15 | 15 0 |
|Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1 6 | 1 3 |
|Width of ditto | 1½ breadth|1½ breadth|1½ breadth|
+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+
|Piece to mark off at top and | 7½| 7 | 6 |
| bottom for crossing |leaving 10½|leaving 9 |leaving 8 |
+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+
|Width of bottom when crossed | 21 | 18 | 16 |
|Width of top when crossed | 15 | 14 | 12 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage| 9 | 8 | 7 |
|Width of sleeve | 9 | 8 | 7 |
|Length of binder down the selvage| 10 | 8 | 7 |
|Width of binder | 1½| 1½| 1½|
|Length of collar down the selvage| 8 | 6½| 5 |
|Width of collar | 3 | 2½| 2¼|
|Length of wristband | | | |
| down the selvage | 4 | 3½| 3 |
|Width of wristband | 2 | 2 | 2 |
|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2 | 2 |
|Size of neck-gusset | 2 | 1 | 1 |
|Depth of slit in front | 6½| 6 | 6 |
|Space to leave for shoulders | 3 | 2½| 2 |
|Width of frill | 1¼| 1 | ¾|
+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+
SCALE FOR A GORED GOWN.
+----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+
| | Woman. | Girl of | Girl of |
| ———————— | | 18 yrs. | 14 yrs. |
+----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|
| Width of material | 15 | 15 | 14 |
| Piece to be gored off at each | | | |
| end of the top | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ |
| Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1 6 | 1 3 |
| Width of sleeve | 7½ | 7½ | 7 |
| Width of binders | 2 | 2 | 1½ |
+----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+
All the other parts are the same as in the scale for the crossed gown.
In cutting out six crossed gowns, tear off the 9 breadths for the
skirts, allowing 1½ breadth to each; after which, cut off the 6 lengths
(9 nails long each) for the sleeves; two sleeves cut in the width.
Next cut off a piece 10 nails long, which divide width-way into twelve
binders of 1½ nail wide each. Afterwards, cut off another breadth of
8 nails long, to divide width-way into six collars of 4 nails width.
The gussets will require two breadths of 3 nails deep, to be divided
width-way also, in six of 3 nails width.
The wristbands are 4 nails long; and as only nine of 2 nails width
can be cut in 1 breadth, the remaining three must be cut off a second
breadth, which will leave sufficient cloth over, exactly to cut the 12
neck-gussets, in two rows deep of 2 nails square. By this arrangement,
no waste whatever is made.
The one gored gown is cut according to the scale; Fig. 8 is a
bosom-bit, which adds much to the strength of the slit. It is
impossible to cut out one of these gowns alone, without a little waste.
PLATE 8. FIG. 6.
This is an exceedingly neat looking night-dress, and for full size is
cut according to the following dimensions. Cut two breadths of 1 yard
wide, and 1½ yard long each, and sew up the seams, leaving 3 nails from
the top for arm-holes. Cut out two shoulder-pieces according to Fig.
7, which represents half, the letter D being the doubled part. If it
is made of calico, put a neat piping round the one shoulder-piece, as
it materially strengthens the night-dress; and after fulling the skirt
evenly round to the other, and setting in the sleeves, lay the upper
shoulder-piece over the lower one. Pipe and frill it up the neck, and
if preferred, a collar may be added, with a second frill above. If the
night-dress is made of linen, it must be neatly stitched instead of
piped. The sleeves are 8 nails square, and the wristband, as in Fig.
11, 4 nails square, to which a frill is added.
FLANNEL WAISTCOAT FOR A LADY.
PLATE 8. FIG. 12.
Cut a piece of flannel 12 nails wide, and 7 nails deep; fold it in two,
and at 2 full nails from the middle or doubled part, cut the arm-holes,
which are 2 full nails wide, and 1¼ nail deep, leaving 2 nails for half
the back; hollow the front half a nail. At the bottom of the waistcoat,
immediately under the arm-holes, cut a slit upwards to the distance of
3 nails, and put into these slits, gores of 3 nails wide at the bottom,
sloped off to a point, being 3 nails long. These gores are differently
cut to most others, being sloped equally on both sides, instead of
having one side straight, so that the point is in a straight line with
the middle of the gore at the bottom (see Fig. 12).
Cut two other slits to admit of bosom gores of similar shape, but
smaller size, being 1¾ nail broad, and 1¾ nail long. They are put in 1
nail from the shoulder-strap.
In making up, herring-bone all round the waistcoat; the slits and
gores, and the seams also, are herring-boned with strong thread, the
seams being turned flatly back, and laid side by side on the finger,
so that the one row of herring-boning shall join the two compactly
together (see Fig. 15). Some persons lay a broad tape, say a nail
wide, down the front, on which the buttons are sewed, and button-holes
worked. Tape shoulder-straps complete the whole. This waistcoat buttons
in the front.
A BOY’S WAISTCOAT.
PLATE 8. FIG. 13, 14.
The following size is suitable for a child of 12 years old:—
The waistcoat is made in three parts; the middle piece should be 7
nails wide, and 6½ nails deep; the side-pieces must be the same depth,
and 5 nails wide. Sew up the seams, and fold the waistcoat in four,
like a pinafore, then cut out the arm-holes, which, while thus doubled,
are 1½ nail in width, and the same in depth; the waistcoat is then
opened, and hollowed out in the front (see Fig. 13).
In making up, tape is sewed all round the edge, at the inside, and
broad tapes down the sides, in which the button-holes are cut. Straps
are sewed on, and the whole is finished.
A WAISTCOAT FOR AN INVALID BOY OF THE WORKING CLASS.
PLATE 8. FIG. 16.
Take a breadth and a half of flannel, each 9 nails long, and sew them
together, leaving them open in the front. Fold the waistcoat in four,
and cut the shoulders, and slits for the arm-holes, as in a pinafore;
the shoulders are 1½ nail deep, and the arm-holes 2½ nails long. Hollow
it a little at the top, and after sewing up the shoulders, gather it
at the top into a tape the proper length (say 5 nails). Put in sleeves
without gussets, which are 7 nails long, and 4 nails wide before being
sewed up; hem the fronts, and lay on a broad tape at the inside of the
hem, in which the button-holes are made; herring-bone the bottom and
sleeves.
A MAN’S UNDER WAISTCOAT.
PLATE 8. FIG. 17, 18.
This is generally made of fine calico, and is cut out according to the
Plate.
For the back (Fig. 17), cut your paper pattern 9 nails long, and 7
nails wide: double it in half its width, and, as in the Plate, letting
D be the doubled part, mark as follows:—
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to the top | 1½ |
| From B to the doubled side | 1½ |
| C is half way, and from C to the side F | 1½ |
| From E to the doubled side | 2 |
+-----------------------------------------+--------+
Curve from A to B, and from A through C to E.
The front is cut as follows:—Let your pattern be 11 nails long, and 8
nails wide (see Plate 8, Fig. 18).
SCALE.
+-------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B is | 9 |
| From B to C | 2 |
| From C to D | 2½ |
| The shoulder, from D, slopes | ½ |
| Length of the shoulder | 2 |
+-------------------------------+--------+
The arm-hole is sloped, and is rather difficult to manage, but by
looking at the Plate, and following the directions, as nearly as
possible, the same shape may be attained.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------+---------+
| | Nails. |
| From the arm-hole, S, to the side | 3½ |
| From the bottom, T, to the side | 5 |
| From the point, R, to the top | 2 |
| From the side to R | 1 |
+-----------------------------------+---------+
Curve from R to the bottom, also from D to B, and cut out the arm-hole.
In making up, sew the pieces together, lay on a broad piece of calico
all down the front, lay a tape round the neck, and set on your buttons
down the front, with button-holes to correspond.
This shape, but varying of course in size, will do for boys of all ages.
BOY’S VEST OR UPPER WAISTCOAT.
PLATE 8. FIG. 19, 20.
This is made of cloth, jean, or nankeen. The size here given, would
suit a boy ten or eleven years old.
The vest is in three parts, viz.—one back and two fronts. To cut out
the front (Fig. 19), let your paper pattern be 3½ nails wide, by 4¼
nails long.
SCALE.
+-------------------------+---------+
| | Nails. |
| From the corner to E is | 2¾ |
| From the top to A | ½ |
| From the side to A | ½ |
| From B to each side | 1¾ |
| From C to the top | 1 |
+-------------------------+---------+
Curve in for the arm-hole, from E to A, cut from A to B, and curve from
B to C.
For the back (Fig. 20), let your paper be 5 nails long, by 3¼ nails
wide.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the top to A | ¼ |
| From the corner to B | 1¼ |
| From the side to C | 1 |
| From the top to C | ¾ |
| From the top to F | 2½ |
| From the corner to E | ¼ |
+----------------------+--------+
Curve slightly from A to B, cut in a straight line from B to C, hollow
for the arm-hole from C to F, cutting into the cloth about 1¼ nail,
slope from F to E.
In making up, join the two shoulders together, then sew E G, Fig.
19, to F E, Fig. 20; line it, bind with galloon or tape round the
neck, arm-holes, waist, and up the fronts, put on buttons, and make
button-holes to correspond in front. Buttons are also put on round the
waist, to which the trowsers are to button, as no braces are worn with
this vest.
CHILD’S NIGHT VEST.
PLATE 8. FIG. 21, 22.
Some children are in the habit (when in bed) of kicking off their
sheets; and it is very desirable for such to wear fine flannel or
demet waistcoats under their night-gowns in winter, and calico ones
in summer, to prevent their catching cold. These waistcoats or vests,
if for children under five or six, may be cut two in the width of the
flannel, and about 8, 10, or 12 nails long, according to the size of
the child. After cutting off the pieces required, fold each in half its
length, and sew up the side-seams, leaving 1½ nail from the top on each
side, to form the arm-holes, which are neatly herring-boned round. The
top is hollowed thus: leave about 1¼ nail on each folded side for the
shoulders, and hollow down to 1½ nail in front, for the bosom, and to 1
nail behind, for the back. Herring-bone flatly all round, and the vest
is completed.
CHILD’S DAY VEST.
PLATE 8. FIG. 23, 24.
Delicate children are often recommended to wear flannel shirts or vests
next their skin. They should be of the finest flannel, with plenty of
nap, which should be next the skin. These are cut much in the same
shape as babies’ second shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 30), excepting that
the back is hollowed out, and it has no sleeves. Two shirts might be
cut in the width, of 8 or 10 nails long. When folded in two, and sewed
up at the seams, leaving 1½ nail for the arm-hole, the front should
be cut. Leave 1¼ nail in each folded side for the shoulders, cut down
nearly straight to 1½ nail for a front flap, and slope down behind to
the same depth.
BATHING GOWN.
PLATE 8. FIG. 25.
Bathing gowns are made of blue or white flannel, stuff, calimanco, or
blue linen. As it is especially desirable that the water should have
free access to the person, and yet that the dress should not cling to,
or weigh down the bather, stuff or calimanco are preferred to most
other materials: the dark coloured gowns are the best for several
reasons, but chiefly because they do not shew the figure, and make the
bather less conspicuous than she would be in a white dress.
As the width of the materials, of which a bathing gown is made, varies,
it is impossible to say of how many breadths it should consist. The
width at the bottom, when the gown is doubled, should be about 15
nails: fold it like a pinafore, slope 3½ nails for the shoulders, cut
or open slits of 3½ nails long for the arm-holes; set in plain sleeves
4½ nails long, 3½ nails wide, and make a slit in front 5 nails long.
In making up, delicacy is the great object to be attended to. Hem
the gown at the bottom, gather it into a band at the top, and run in
strings; hem the opening and the bottom of the sleeves, and put in
strings. A broad band should be sewed in about half a yard from the
top, to button round the waist.
WOMEN’S CAPS.
Women’s caps are generally made of checked, spotted, clear, or twilled
muslin, widow’s lawn, and if for night-caps for the poor, sometimes of
soft fine calico. The borders are of corded, cambric, jaconet, or clear
muslin, and are sometimes, for ladies’ caps, edged with narrow lace, or
are made entirely of hemmed net.
WOMAN’S DAY OR NIGHT-CAP.
PLATE 9. FIG. 1, 2
This is a favourite shape for a day-cap among the poor.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Width of checked muslin | 1½ 0 |
|Width of crown to cap, four in the width of material, | 6 |
| or, | |
|Length of crown down the selvage | 6½ |
|Width of puffing or head-piece, twenty-four in width | |
| of material, or, | 1 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 14 |
|Width of bands to confine the puffing, 48 in the width,| ½ |
| or, | |
|Length of bands down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of strings, forty-eight in the breadth | ½ |
|Length of strings down the selvage | 7 |
|Quantity of material for one cap | 14 |
|Quantity of material for twenty-four | 4 3 |
|Length of bordering to each, three breadths of | 16 |
|Depth of bordering down the selvage | 1¼ |
+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+
Observe, that in the Plates the letter D always stands for the doubled
part of the muslin.
In cutting out these caps, it is by far the most economical to cut out
24 at a time, as, if half that number is cut, half the width of the
length of cloth from which the puffing is cut, is wasted, whereas the
24 exactly fit in.
The crown must be rounded off at the top, for which purpose, double it
in half its width, and at 2 nails from the top corner each way, round,
or slope off the piece from A to B (see Plate 9, Fig. 1).
The cap is made up as follows:—
Double the bands in two, and turn down the edges as if for sewing. Hem
the crown-piece with a very narrow hem up each side, to the distance of
half a nail, and sew it firmly to each end of one of the bands; after
which, whip and stroke evenly the remaining part of the crown, and sew
it to the rest of the band in the middle. To the other side of the
band, full on the head-piece or puffing, which is afterwards confined
on the other side by being whipped and sewed to the second band. The
double border is sewed on in front, and a single one behind, where
previously there has been a pretty deep hem made, to admit of strings
to draw behind. These strings are sewed into the cap, each at the
opposite end of the hem to that on which it comes out. The strings are
hemmed at the end, being either pointed or rounded, according to taste.
Some ladies prefer their being 1 nail wide and rounded at the end, with
a narrow frill or edging sewed on to the distance of 3 or 4 nails round
the ends.
A VERY NEAT NIGHT-CAP.
PLATE 9. FIG. 3, 4, 5, 6.
This, when made of checked muslin, with a border of corded muslin,
has a very pretty appearance, and is particularly comfortable for a
night-cap, as it sets close to the head.
[Illustration: PLATE 9
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 17
Fig 3 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 18
Fig 28 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 19
Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 24
Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 25
Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 26]
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+
| | Yds. nls. |
|Best width of material | 18 |
|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 14 |
|Width of ditto | 4½ |
|Length of horse-shoe down the selvage | 3½ |
|Width of ditto | 2½ |
|Length of strings down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of ditto | ½ |
|Quantity of material for eight | 2 3 |
|Quantity of bordering, 3 breadths of muslin in width | 16 |
|Depth of ditto | 1¼ |
+-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+
The most economical number of caps of this pattern to cut at once, is
eight, and should be done as follows, to prevent waste (see Fig. 3).
Tear off two lengths of 14 nails, which, when torn each in four, will
form the eight head-pieces. The horse-shoe crowns must be cut in two
rows deep, four in each row, of 2½ nails wide, which will require 10
nails of the breadth, leaving a piece 8 nails wide and 7 nails long.
This piece will cut the eight pairs of strings, which are each half
a nail wide, and 7 nails long. After cutting out the cap, shape the
head-pieces according to Fig. 4 in the Plate, by which it will be seen
that 1¼ nail is taken off in a direct line from A to B. The piece for
the horse-shoe crown must be folded, and rounded carefully at the top,
and then sloped off in a direct line, thus cutting off half a nail from
each side.
In making up the cap, place the straight part of the head-piece in
front, and put two runners, besides hem, at equal distances from
each other in front, say ¾ of a nail. Whip the back neatly, and
after hemming the horse-shoe crown, sew the head-piece firmly to it.
Some people hem a cord round the horse-shoe which gives it a greater
firmness, and looks like a piping when the head-piece is sewed in, as
it ought to be, to the bottom, instead of the top of the hem. A hem is
made at the bottom of the cap for a string to draw. Double borders in
front, a single one behind, and the strings sewed on, complete the cap.
A YOUNG SERVANT’S NEAT DAY-CAP.
PLATE 9. FIG. 7, 8.
This shape is generally made of clear muslin, widow’s lawn, or jaconet,
and is particularly adapted for girls on first going to service, from
its neat simplicity.
SCALE.
+----------------------------------------------+----------+
| | Nails. |
|Best width of material | 16 or 24 |
|Width of cap | 8 |
|Length down the selvage | 5 |
|Quantity required for four caps, if yard wide | 10 |
+----------------------------------------------+----------+
The cap is folded in half the width, and cut according to Fig. 7. The
side marked D is the doubled part. Mark on the opposite side 2 nails
from the top, E, and slope or hollow out a piece from E to H very
gradually, letting the greater width of the piece thus hollowed out not
exceed half a nail.
Next slope off gradually from H to L at the distance of ½ a nail from
the bottom; after which, cut the straight line E K, which is 1 nail in
length, the letter K being situated about ¾ of a nail from the side
and 1¼ from the top, and then slope gradually to M. In making up the
cap, sew from E to K, and gather in the top from K to M, as in Fig. 8.
A single or double border is put in front. This is a small size.
Fig. 18, 19, 27, and 28 are different shaped strings for caps.
ANOTHER NEAT CAP FOR SERVANTS.
PLATE 9. FIG. 9, 10.
This shape is particularly liked by the poor, from the ease with which
it is made up and washed, as, upon undrawing the string, it opens
readily at the top, and lies quite flat to be ironed.
As the shape is peculiar, if many are to be cut at once, it would be
the least wasteful plan to cut out on a doubled piece of paper, the
pattern of the cap, according to Fig. 9; open it out and lay it on
the material in such directions as to cut to most advantage. If only
one is to be cut, procure a piece of muslin 8 nails wide and 5½ nails
long; which, when folded evenly in half its width, shape as follows,
according to the Plate. The side marked D is the doubled part; from E
at the bottom to F is 2¼ nails. From the top, G to H, measure 2¼ nails,
and cut off in a sloping line from I, at the top of the doubled corner,
to H, again cut from H to F, after which cut off from F to about ½ a
nail above E, and then the shape of the cap is formed.
Strings of the usual size, ½ nail wide and 7 nails long, complete the
cap.
In making it up, sew from H to Y, and then hem all round the open part
along Y to I, and sew on a full frill of ¾ nail deep, and about 18
nails long. Afterwards hem the front and back of the cap, put double
borders in front, and a single one behind, of 1 nail deep, and 3
breadths of 16 or 18 nails wide.
ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 9. FIG. 11, 12.
This is a very simple shape, and for washing and making up is equally
convenient with Fig 10. It answers well for a bonnet cap for ladies, in
which case it might be made of net or tulle, with a quilling or lace
border.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1 2 |
|Width of cap without runners | 4 |
|Length of cap down the selvage | 9 |
|Sloped off at the bottom from C to A | ½ |
+-------------------------------------+----------+
Fold the cap in half its length, making D the doubled part (see Fig.
11). Sew and fell from A to B, to the depth of 1 nail, and hem round
the rest of the opening behind, to admit of a ribbon. Let there be two
runners besides the hem in front, to admit of tape or narrow ribbon.
The border must depend upon the purpose for which the cap is intended:
if for a night-cap, a double border in front and single behind will be
required: if for a bonnet cap, a double border or quilling only, in
front will be sufficient. It may be as well also to remark, that if it
is meant for a night-cap, the length of the cap down the selvage should
be greater, say 11 or 12 nails; and the width of the material, to cut
to the best advantage, must, of course, be either exactly the same, or
double.
A NEAT SCHOOL-GIRL’S CAP.
PLATE 9. FIG. 13, 14.
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+
| | Yds. nls. |
|Best width of material | 1 8 |
|Length of the crown down the selvage | 6 |
|Width of the crown, or three in the breadth | 8 |
|Length of the head-piece down the selvage | 8 |
|Width of the head-piece, or twelve in the breadth | 2 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 0 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 2 12 |
+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+
This pattern needs little further explanation, the shape and size are
so clearly given in the Plate. The head-piece is sloped off at the
ears, beginning to cut at 1 nail above the corner, to 1 nail beyond the
corner, at the bottom of the cap.
This cap is for school girls, and is particularly neat if of checked
muslin with corded muslin frills.
A FAVOURITE CAP FOR LADIES AND POOR WOMEN.
PLATE 9. FIG. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1 8 |
|Width of crown-piece, three in the width | 8 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 6½ |
|Width of head-piece, twelve in the breadth | 2 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 8 |
|Length of weepers (if wanted) down the selvage | 2½ |
|Width of ditto, sixteen in the breadth | 1½ |
|Length of bands down the selvage (if wanted) | 1 14 |
|Width of ditto, twelve in the width | 2 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps, without extras | 2 2 |
|Quantity for twelve, if with weepers | 2 5 |
|Quantity for twelve, if complete with bands | 4 3 |
|Width of bordering | 1 |
|Length of ditto, two breadths width | 1 8 |
+--------------------------------------------------+---------+
This cap is pretty and not expensive if made without the band and
weepers, which, of course, add much to the cost; twelve is the best
number to cut out at once. They are generally made for ladies of
sprigged muslin, when the head-piece should be of strong muslin or
fine calico. The borders are cambric, muslin, or net, edged with
Valenciennes lace, or other neat trimming. The weepers are also frilled
and edged, as also the rounded ends of the band. The crown is sloped
off a little at the corner, as seen in Fig. 16, at A, which is about 2
nails from the corner. The weepers are also shaped to a point, as in
Fig. 19 (see B). The band (Fig. 18) is gathered in at about 1½ nail
from the end, which is rounded, with edging sewed on. The middle of the
band is plaited, and sewed firmly on to the middle of the head-piece,
in front.
A NEAT COMFORTABLE DAY OR NIGHT-CAP.
PLATE 9. FIG. 20.
This is a shape particularly suitable for day-caps for young servants,
or night-caps for any age or station. If intended for day-caps, they
should be made of clear or jaconet muslin; if for night-caps, of check
or calico.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------------------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1 0 |
|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 8 |
|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 |
|Length of crown down the selvage | 6 |
|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 |
|Quantity required for four caps without strings | 14 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 10 |
+-----------------------------------------------------+----------+
| ⁂ Cap strings, for any number of caps not exceeding sixteen, |
| require seven additional nails, as sixteen pairs exactly cut in|
| the width, so that sixteen caps would he the most economical |
| number to cut. |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
The head-piece is a little sloped off at the ear from A to B, and
is made up double, so as to be only 2 nails deep, when the cap is
completed.
ANOTHER CAP.
PLATE 9. FIG. 21.
This shape is very suitable for a servant’s day or bonnet cap; it is
simple and pretty in appearance, and not expensive.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1½ 0 |
|Length of crown down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 6 |
|Length of band down the selvage | 8 |
|Width of band[1] | 1 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 1 13 |
+-----------------------------------------------+----------+
[1] The remainder of the breadth from which the bands are cut will make
strings.
In making it up, the band is doubled in half, the crown whipped and
sewed to it, leaving it plain from A to B, for the space of 1¾ nail. A
double border is sewn on in front.
AN OLD WOMAN’S CAP.
PLATE 9. FIG. 22, 23.
This shape is generally preferred by old women, as it sets comfortably
over the ears.
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------------------------+----------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 21 |
|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 7 |
|Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1¾ |
|Length of crown down the selvage | 9 |
|Width of ditto at the widest part, or three in the width| 7 |
|Width of ditto when sloped off at the bottom | 5 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 11 |
|Additional quantity for strings | 7 |
+--------------------------------------------------------+----------+
It is almost impossible to cut out a number of these caps without a
little waste.
The head-pieces, when torn off, are 7 nails long, and 1¾ wide; double
them in half their length, and then slope off from A to B, one nail.
The straight part is the front, to which a border is sewed. The crown
is next shaped, according to Fig. 23, for which purpose, double the
piece in half its width, and from the corner, B, measure 7 nails on the
side to A, and 1 nail on the bottom, to C, and cut off in a straight
line from A to C. Round off the corner at the top, from A to D. The
crown is sewed on plain for the space of 1½ nail from the bottom, and
then evenly fulled into the remainder of the head-piece.
A POOR WOMAN’S NIGHT-CAP.
PLATE 9. FIG. 24, 25, 26.
This shape is sometimes made of linen, but generally of strong calico
or check.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 18 |
|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 9 |
|Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1½ |
|Size of squares in which to cut out the circular crown,| |
| or two in the breadth | 9 |
|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 3 15 |
|Additional quantity for twelve pair of strings | 7 |
+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+
The head-piece is sloped off, as in Fig. 24, from A, which is 1½ nail
above the corner, B, to C.
The crown, after being rounded, is evenly fulled into the head-piece,
which latter is sewed neatly together behind, at the opening, D C.
ANOTHER CAP.
PLATE 9. FIG. 27, 28.
This is a pretty shape for almost any purpose, and in any thin
material; it is cut out in front very much in the same manner that a
baby’s cap is cut behind, which will be seen if the Plate is turned
round, so as to place the doubled part, D, at the top.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Best width of material | 1 8 |
|Length of cap down the selvage | 5½ |
|Width of ditto, or three in the breadth | 8 |
|Depth from F to A | 1½ |
|Space from A to B, to be cut | 1 |
|Length to be cut from B to C | 2 |
|Then slope gradually, in a circular direction, | |
| from E to C | |
+-----------------------------------------------+---------+
In making up the cap, sew neatly from A to B, and then full in the part
from E to C, evenly to the part between C and B; a hem in the front and
at the back, is next made for a ribbon or tape, and a small bow, either
of the same material (see Fig. 17), or white or coloured ribbon may be
put at B (Fig. 28).
BATHING CAP.
These are made of oil-silk, and are worn, when bathing, by ladies who
have long hair. Cut a piece of oil-silk, 4 nails long and 8 nails wide;
double it so as to make a square; let the doubled part be the back of
the cap, and slope off the corner at the top, towards the back, in a
curve, so as to shape it to the form of the back of the head. Sew up
along the top of the bathing cap, binding it with tape at the seam,
both at the top and in the front. Lay on a tape behind to form a hem,
making oylet-holes at the ears, and passing a string through each
oylet-hole, which is fastened down at the opposite side; these strings
draw up the cap, when worn, to the size required.
It is advisable, however, for those who have not long hair, to bathe in
plain linen caps, so as to admit the water without the sand or grit,
and thus the bather, unless prohibited on account of health, enjoys all
the benefit of the shock without injuring the hair.
These caps are often worn by children when the head is shaved, if
subject to diseases in the head, as ring-worm, scald-head, &c.
DRESSING-GOWNS.
PLATE 10.
Dressing-gowns are generally made of warm materials, for the winter, as
flannels, either printed or plain, merino, shawl, either the real or
imitation, and for gentlemen, of cloth or jean. For summer, they are of
dimity, calico, twilled muslin, and sometimes, though rarely, of silk.
There are various ways of making them; only a few of the most approved
shapes will be here mentioned.
PLATE 10. FIG. 1.
A PLAIN USEFUL SHAPE, ESPECIALLY FOR MEN.
This gown is made with a deep hem turned up, and a strong piping at the
top of it. It is divided into four, and the arm-holes left in the two
front seams, sloping the flannel 1 nail deep, and 2½ nails long, for
the shoulders. The neck-gusset is put in double, and the shoulder-strap
laid over it. The gown must be neatly plaited behind and in front, set
firmly into the double collar, and stitched with strong thread near
the edge. Some people pipe every seam of a dressing-gown with white
or coloured muslin, linen, or glazed calico. The back is drawn up by
means of a string-case, over which a band should button. A large button
is put on the band, and on the collar, and the button-holes should be
very firmly sewed round, either with tape or with button-hole stitch.
After putting in the sleeves, run or back-stitch the plaits firmly down
again, at about ¼ nail below the gathering, to make them lie flat.
[Illustration: PLATE 10.
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3
Fig 4 Fig 5A Fig 5B Fig 6
Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12
Fig 9 Fig 13 Fig 14
Fig 15 Fig 16
Fig 20 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 18 Fig 17
Fig 19 Fig 21 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29]
SCALE.
+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+
| —————————— | Man’s | Woman’s | Girl’s |
| | size. | size. |large size.|
+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls. |
|Width of flannel | 14 | 14 | 14 |
|Quantity required for one |10 5 | 8 10 | 6 0 |
|Length of skirts | 2 0 | 1¾ 0 | 1¼ 0 |
|Number of breadths | 4 0 | 4 0 | 4 0 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 12 | 10 | 8 |
|Width of ditto | 9 | 8 | 7 |
|Length of shoulder-strap | 4½ | 4 | 3½ |
|Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ | 1 |
|Size of double neck-gusset | 2½ | 2 | 2 |
|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 3 | 2½ |
|Width of collar | 5 | 6 | 4 |
|Length down the selvage | 10 | 8 | 8 |
|Width of wristband | 2½ | 2 | 2 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 4½ | 4 | 4 |
|Width of band | 2½ | 2 | 2 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 20 | 12 | 12 |
|Space to cut for the shoulders | 2½ | 2 | 2 |
|Depth for the shoulders to slope | 1 | 1 | ¾ |
+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+
PLATE 10. FIG. 2.
This figure represents a dressing-gown made of dimity. A deep hem of
3 or 4 nails is made at the bottom, insertion-work is sewed up the
fronts, and round the cape, collar, and wrists, at the edge of the work
a frill is put on. The gown is fulled in evenly to the shoulder-strap
and neck-gusset at the top, and may be confined or not, at the waist
behind, according to pleasure. The front is generally left unconfined,
so that the band alone arranges it in folds.
FIG. 2, 3.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+
| —————————— | Woman’s | Woman’s |
| |large size.|small size.|
+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+
| |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |
|Width of material | 14 | 14 |
|Number of breadths | 3 breadths| 3 breadths|
|The one breadth crossed off at the top | 5 | 5½ |
|Length of breadths | 1¾ 0 |1½ 0 |
|Length of shoulder-strap | 3¼ | 3¼ |
|Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ |
|Length of neck-band or case | 10 | 9 |
|Space for shoulder | 3½ | 3½ |
|Length of arm-hole | 3 | 2½ |
|Arm-hole curved into the cloth | 1¼ | 1 |
|Length of waist | 5 | 4½ |
|Length of string-case | 10 | 8 |
|Sleeve cut according to Plate 12, |Fig. 5 & 6 |Fig. 5 & 6 |
| Fig. 5 and 6 | | |
|Collar cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 |
|Cape cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 |
+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+
PLATE 10. FIG. 3.
This gown, made of flannel, either plain or printed, is plaited in
small regular folds at the neck, where a string-case of muslin or
white ribbon is put for a string to pass through. The gown is again
plaited in the same folds at the waist, in two rows, to which another
string-case is sewed all round the waist. A deep hem is made at the
bottom, and turned up with a piping of white; or if it is a printed
flannel, of some coloured glazed calico or muslin; the ribbons in front
are the same colour, and a flannel band is piped with it, as well as
the wristbands and every seam on the shoulders, round the sleeves, &c.
The sleeves should be stitched down about 1 nail below the shoulder, to
make the fulness lie close and flat. If made of printed flannel, it is
useful to wear at the sea-side, as a walking dress, to and from bathing.
CLOAK DRESSING-GOWN.
PLATE 10. FIG. 4.
This is a comfortable simple pattern; it can be made either of flannel
or lighter material, and is equally suitable for men, women, and
children; it is very convenient for the latter when taken out of a
bath, or for sitting up in bed.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+
| —————————— | Man. | Woman. |Girl of 16 yrs.|
+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+
| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| Yds. nls. |
|Length of skirt |2 0 |1½ 0 | 1¼ 0 |
|Number of breadths |4 0 |4 0 | 4 0 |
|Space for shoulder | 2 | 1 | 1 |
|Depth of arm-holes | 5 | 4 | 3½ |
|Length of string-case | 12 | 10 | 9 |
|Length of band | 16 | 14 | 12 |
|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 |
|Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 |
|Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 |
|Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 |
| | | | |
+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+
| —————————— | Girl of 10 yrs. |Child of 5 yrs.|
+-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |
|Length of skirt | 1¼ 0 | 1½ 0 |
|Number of breadths | 3 0 | 3 0 |
|Space for shoulder | ¾ | ¾ |
|Depth of arm-holes | 3½ | 3 |
|Length of string-case | 8 | 7 |
|Length of band | 10 | 8 |
|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 4 | Fig. 4 |
|Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 31 | Fig. 13 |
|Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 |
|Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 |
| | cut smaller | cut smaller |
+-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+
After the seams have been herring-boned up, the cloak is folded in
four, to find the shoulders, which are cut in a gentle slope to the
proper width, and sewed up. The arm-holes having been left, the sleeves
are next put in, after which, the gown is fulled evenly into the double
shoulder-piece; the collar and cape are next put on; the hem at the
bottom should be deep, and turned up with a flannel or tape piping;
down the sides and round the cape, collar, &c., should be bound with
flannel binding, to give a finish. Some persons omit the sleeves,
having merely slits for the arms.
A DRESSING JACKET.
PLATE 10. FIG. 5, 6.
Some persons merely wear a little flannel, calico, or twilled muslin
dressing jacket, and as it is usually made to fit the figure, the
breadths are much gored; for the purpose, therefore, of better
explaining the shape, a figure is made of the breadth when cut out.
Fig. 5 A, is half of the back breadth, which is doubled in two, and
Fig. 5 B is the whole of one of the front breadths.
SCALE.
+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+
| | Woman’s | Woman’s | Girl’s | Girl’s |
| ———————— | large | small | large | small |
| | size. | size. | size. | size. |
+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+
|Number of breadths | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 |
|Width of material |12 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls.|
|Length of each breadth|14 — |12 — |10 — | 8 — |
|Length of sleeve |12 — |10 — | 8 — | 8 — |
|Width of ditto |10 — | 8 — | 8 — | 8 — |
|Length of collar | 8 — | 6½ — | 6 — | 5½ — |
|Width of ditto | 3 — | 3 — | 2 — | 2 — |
|Size of neck-gusset | 2 — | 1¾ — | 1½ — | 1¼ — |
|Length of arm-hole | 4 — | 4 — | 3½ — | 3 — |
|Length of string-case | 4 — | 3½ — | 3½ — | 3 — |
|Space for shoulder | 3¾ — | 3½ — | 3 — | 2½ — |
|Length of skirt-gusset| 4 — | 3 — | 3 — | 2½ — |
|Breadth of ditto | 2 — | 1½ — | 1½ — | 1½ — |
+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+
FIG. 5 A.
Or half the back of the jacket when cut out, supposing the breadth to
be folded exactly in two.
Let A L be the folded side.
SCALE.
+---------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
+---------------------------+-------+
| Space from A to B | 5½ |
| Do. do. B to C | 2½ |
| Do. do. C to D | 3½ |
| Do. do. D to E | 1¼ |
| Do. do. D to F | 2½ |
| Do. do. F to G | ¾ |
| Do. do. F to H | 3 |
| Do. do. H to I | 1½ |
| Do. do. H to J | ½ |
| Do. do. J to K | 3 |
| Do. do. K to L | 2½ |
+---------------------------+-------+
FIG. 5 B.
Or the whole of one of the front breadths.
SCALE.
+--------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
+--------------------+--------+
| Space from A to B | 4 |
| Do. do. B to C | 4½ |
| Do. do. C to D | 1 |
| Do. do. C to E | 2½ |
| Do. do. E to F | 2¾ |
| Do. do. E to G | 1 |
| Do. do. G to H | 2¾ |
| Do. do. H to I | 2¼ |
| Do. do. I to J | 6 |
| Do. do. J to K | 12 |
+--------------------+--------+
In making up this jacket, sew the 3 breadths together, putting in at
the bottom two gussets or triangular pieces. Make a narrow hem at the
bottom, sew up the shoulders, and put in the sleeves. Set the back
breadth plainly into the collar, but full it at each end into the neck
gusset, and also in front. Put the string-case about a nail lower than
the arm-holes.
FLANNEL PETTICOATS.
PLATE 10. FIG. 7.
The breadths of flannel are cut according to the height of the person,
allowing a good tuck besides, to be let down after the petticoat has
been washed.
SCALE.
First or largest size, for a full grown woman:—3 breadths
of flannel sewed simply together; slit behind 6 nails
deep, and opened in a seam.
Second size, for a middle sized woman, 2½ breadths; the half
is crossed off 5 nails, and the two gores are sewed,
one on each side, between the two plain breadths; slit
behind 5 nails; it is made in the middle of one of
the plain breadths. It is more economical to cut two
petticoats at once, as 5 breadths will make two, but it
requires 3 to cut one out, and there must be waste.
Third size, for a girl of fourteen or sixteen, 2 breadths.
From 1 breadth is cut a gore of 5 nails at the top,
sloped off to 1 nail; this gore is sewed at the opposite
side of the same breadth, placing the 1 nail width at
the narrow end of the breadth. The slit behind must be
determined by doubling the petticoat exactly in half,
letting it be about 4 nails long.
Another way of cutting this petticoat, is by crossing it
like a shift, and then putting the two broader ends to
the bottom, while the narrow part is at the top; by this
method there is no waste, and it saves both time and
trouble.
Fourth size, 2 breadths: 1 breadth is cut in half, and 1
half is gored 5 nails; the two gores are sewed, one on
each side of the whole breadth, in front, and the half
breadth is put in behind. The slit is torn down the
middle of the half-breadth, and is 4 nails long.
Fifth size, for a girl eight or ten, 1½ breadth. The ½
breadth is gored, and the whole breadth torn in half;
a gore is sewed on each side between the two half breadths.
Slit behind 3 nails deep, in the middle of the ½ breadth,
behind.
Sixth size, for a child five or six, 1½ or 2 breadths, sewed
simply together without goring. Slit 3 nails long behind.
Petticoats are variously made up. The most usual way is plaiting the
top in regular folds on each side, letting it be quite plain, or nearly
so, in front; it is then set firmly into a linen, calico, or jean band,
of the proper width to encircle the waist, and of 1 nail deep when
doubled and turned in. Strong tapes are sewed to the ends of the band,
and sometimes a large button-hole is made in the band, about 2 nails
from the end, through which the tape of the opposite end is drawn,
which makes the petticoat set neatly to the figure.
Another manner is to make the petticoat up without any slit behind,
so as to be a round skirt; a band of the same size is set on quite
plainly, without plait or fulness (see Fig. 8). A runner is made
all round in the middle of the band, and two button-holes for the
strings to come out of, are made at the two sides of the petticoat
under the arm; one tape is sewed firmly down at the end of one of the
button-holes, carried all round the petticoat, and drawn out again at
the same hole; the other tape, in a similar manner, is sewed down at
the other button-hole: when the petticoat is on, and the tapes drawn
and tied in front, the fulled part lies behind, forming a sort of
bustle to set off the dress properly (see Fig. 9).
The tops for children’s petticoats are generally a kind of stay, to
which the skirt is either sewed or fastened by means of buttons, and to
which the drawers button also. For children’s stays, see Plate 11.
POCKETS.
PLATE 10.
Pockets are either worn tied round the waist, fastened into the
petticoat, or buttoned upon the stays. When fastened into the
petticoat, they are made of the same material, otherwise of dimity,
calico, jean, twilled muslin, and sometimes of nankeen or brown jean.
Take a doubled piece of six nails width-way, and seven nails
selvage-way when doubled, and cut according to Fig. 10. For this
purpose, double the folded piece in half width-way, and slope off
from A to B one nail. The hole in the pocket is slit down about four
nails, beginning at three-quarters of a nail from the top. Cut the
slit in the shape of an I, in order to allow of a deep hem being made
on each side. The two pieces of the pocket are run firmly together
all round, at a little distance from the edge, on the wrong side. It
is then turned inside out, the seam well flattened, and back-stitched
all round with white silk, about a quarter of an inch from the edge.
The top is set into a broad piece of tape, which is doubled over it
and forms the strings also. The slit is hemmed or back-stitched neatly
down. Sometimes an inner pocket or pockets are made for a watch, &c.,
and this is done by sewing a square piece of the material inside the
pocket. The top is left open, but the sides and bottom of it are firmly
sewed down.
ANOTHER POCKET.
PLATE 10. FIG. 11.
This differs from the other merely in having the slit cut the contrary
way, so as to open width, instead of length-wise.
ANOTHER POCKET.
PLATE 10. FIG. 13, 14.
This shape is preferred by some persons, as it sets better to the
figure than the others. The straight side is worn in front; and, in
cutting out a pair of pockets, care must be taken to make them for
the right and left side. The shape is exactly the same as Fig. 10,
excepting that, after they are cut out, a gore is taken off from the
one side and sewed on to the other, by which means the one is straight
and the other, in consequence of the addition, is very much sloped.
When pockets are fastened into gowns and petticoats, they are a
little fulled at the top, and the slit of the pocket is sewed to the
corresponding slit of the petticoat. Some people cut out the slit for
the pocket differently, as they are considered to lie flatter to the
person than the usual shaped pocket. It is formed by making an oblong
bag or pocket, about eight nails long and five nails wide, and cutting
at one end, in a slanting direction, so as to take off a triangular
piece. To save waste, it is better to make two pockets at once, letting
the oblong piece be still five nails wide, when doubled, but fifteen
nails long (see Fig. 12); crease it in half its length, and then cut,
in a slanting direction, across from A to B. The part cut forms the
slit or opening to the pocket, which is sewed all round to the slit in
the petticoat or gown.
ANOTHER METHOD.
This is simply a lining or square piece of calico, about ten nails
wide and eight nails deep, sewed to the inside of the petticoat quite
plainly. The petticoat has a slit of four nails deep.
FRILLS.
Frills are in use when high gowns are worn, and are made of cambric,
muslin, net, lace, tulle, crape, &c.
A SIMPLE FRILL.
This is merely a strip of muslin, about fourteen nails long and three
nails wide, more or less, according to pleasure. It is merely hemmed
all round, and simply plaited up, in regular folds, to the proper size.
A PARTICULARLY NEAT FRILL.
PLATE 10. FIG. 15.
This is made of net or clear muslin, and is neatly fulled to the band.
The edge, instead of being hemmed, is rolled over a bobbin to stiffen
it. The band is about half a nail wide, and doubled, and is nine nails
long. The frill on each side is fourteen nails long, and two nails
wide. A button-hole is put in the middle to fasten it to the gown, and
it ties at the ends with ribbons.
A CRIMPED FRILL.
PLATE 10. FIG. 16.
This is very suitable for young children, especially boys, and is
generally made of lawn or cambric. The frill should be double the
length of the size round the neck, and about one nail wide. A neat hem
at one edge, and the other is sewed to a band of the proper length, say
about five nails, and of half a nail in depth. These frills should be
crimped very neatly.
PLATE 10. FIG. 17.
This frill is to be made like Fig. 15, excepting that the muslin is
only one nail deep, and crimped in the same manner as Fig. 16. It is
very suitable for young children.
PLATE 10. FIG. 18.
Another and more ornamental frill, made of muslin or net, with edging
sewed on it.
The muslin or net must be about four nails wide, and fourteen or
sixteen nails long. The frill is creased down the middle, and on each
side of the crease, at a quarter of a nail distance, it is neatly
run with a long thread, and drawn up to the proper width, forming a
puffing in the centre of the frill. This puffing is first stroked with
the needle into an even fulness, and then sewed at each side close to
the gatherings, to a band of a quarter of a nail wide only, or still
narrower, so as to raise the puffing sufficiently to look well, and yet
not too much to admit of a ribbon being drawn smoothly through it. This
ribbon ties the frill round the neck.
PLATE 10. FIG. 19.
This is a very simple frill, and, when well made, looks remarkably
neat. The net of which it is composed must be about two nails and a
quarter wide, creased in the middle, and finely plaited in small neat
plaits. It is then doubled, and bound on the outside down the folded
centre with a narrow ribbon, so that the two sides of the frill lie
close together, instead of being open, like Fig. 18.
ANOTHER FRILL.
This kind, which is sometimes called a Ruche, is made exactly contrary
to the usual mode. The frill, instead of being run down the middle,
is joined down the sides, and confined at the joining into a ribbon,
so that the top of the frill is double; and as it is usually made of
tulle, or some rather stiff material, it stands out stiffly from the
neck. Pelerines have sometimes a double frill or Ruche, of the same
material that they are made of, sewed to them.
CUFFS.
PLATE 10.
There are various kinds of cuffs, for different purposes, of which the
most useful only are here explained.
TIDY CUFFS.
PLATE 10. FIG. 20, 21.
Tidy cuffs are much worn by persons whose employments are apt to injure
the sleeve of the gown, either by wearing it out, staining, or greasing
it. They are very valuable whilst drawing, writing, pasting, or when
in the kitchen; and in these cases are generally made of Holland or
nankeen, and when braided with dark blue, green, crimson, brown, or
any other suitable colour, with ribbons to lace up of the same, they
have a particularly neat effect. The cuff is cut out as follows (Fig.
21):—Procure a piece of Holland four nails down the selvage, and five
nails wide; double it in half its width, and slope down by the selvage
from A to D, and from B to C, cutting off half a nail in a direct
slope, so that, when open, the end, C D, is but four nails wide, while
A B is five. Turn down a deep hem along each of the sloped sides half
a nail deep, and over the stitches put a braid, with two other rows of
the same close together on the hem, leaving sufficient space between to
insert a thin whalebone to support the cuff, and keep it from wrinkling
when on the arm. The lace-holes are worked with silk the same colour as
the ribbon. Fig. 20 represents the cuff when laced up.
PLATE 10. FIG. 22.
This is a neat cuff to lay on the dress, and is either made of plain
net, of lace, or of muslin, with or without edging, and sometimes of
satin ribbon. If for mourning, the net should have a broad hem. It is
gathered and sewed into a band about one nail deep, and three or three
and a half wide, according to the size of the wrist. There should be
two pearl buttons set on one end, and button-holes made to correspond.
PLATE 10. FIG. 23.
This is a plain band, to be made to fit the wrist exactly, of silk,
satin, or velvet, to be laid on a thin evening sleeve. It may be one
nail broad or more. A rouleau is sometimes laid on round it, or a
narrow piping. If it is made of silk the colour of the dress, or of
white silk embroidered, it has a very pretty effect.
PLATE 10. FIG. 24.
This is a dress cuff, to wear with lace or tulle sleeves, and may be
made of any rich material, with a piping of satin and an edging of
blonde or lace. The inside is sometimes embroidered in floss silk. In
cutting it out, procure a piece of paper about two nails and a half
deep, and four nails long; double it in half its length, and measure
up the side from A to C, one nail and a quarter, leaving from C to the
upper edge, J, one nail and a quarter also. Cut off the corner from E
to C, curving it a little inwards, and again, from C to A, cut off in a
direct line one quarter of a nail. Open it, and it will resemble Fig.
24 exactly.
PLATE 10. FIG. 25.
This cuff resembles the preceding one, but has, in addition, a small
second cuff laid on the lower part of it, and a slit cut down from the
top to about one nail and a quarter depth from A to B. The top of the
second cuff comes just below the slit, and it is a little sloped away
at the sides.
PLATE 10. FIG. 26.
A cuff worn in deep mourning, especially by widows, and made either
of clear muslin or black crape. It consists of fold lying upon fold,
and is either sewed upon the sleeve or made to slip over the hand. The
folds are four or five in number, and lie just one above the other,
each being about a quarter of a nail deep.
PLATE 10. FIG. 27.
This is to be worn as a trimming or edging, below the sleeve, upon
the hand: the band buttons inside the sleeve. The frill is of muslin,
cambric, net, or lace. It should be very full, and got up in puffs, or
very finely crimped. The ends of the bands should have deep hems, in
which the button-holes are worked. The band is about three-quarters of
a nail deep, and three or three nails and a half wide.
PLATE 10. FIG. 28.
This is a neat simple little cuff, and suits the collar, Plate 13, Fig.
26. It is well adapted for mourning. Cut two pieces of muslin, net,
lawn, or cambric, of two nails square, and hem each round with a broad
hem; sew the two together to the depth of about one nail; the parts
sewed together form a sort of band inside, while the others, being
unattached, fall backwards over the sleeve.
PLATE 10. FIG. 29.
A simple, plain, mourning cuff, with a broad hem above and below. The
cuff to be about two nails deep, and three and a half or four nails
long, according to the size of the wrist.
APRONS.
PLATE 11.
If for common use, aprons are made of white, brown, blue, black, or
checked linen, of black stuff, calico, Holland, leather, nankeen,
print, or long cloth; if for better purposes, of cambric muslin, clear,
mulled, or jaconet muslin, silk, satinette, satin, &c. The length of
the apron is, of course, generally determined by the height of the
wearer, and the width, by that of the material, and by the purpose for
which it is intended. For working aprons, the width is generally one
breadth of a yard wide; for dress aprons, two breadths, one of which
is cut in half, and these halves put one on each side of the whole
breadth. If the material should be wide enough, one breadth, of from
fourteen to twenty nails, will answer very well.
DRESS APRON.
PLATE 11. FIG. 1.
This is made of satinette, or thick satin silk, and consists of two
breadths, one in front, and a half-breadth sewed on each side of it.
None of them are to be at all sloped. The length is regulated by the
pleasure of the wearer, and a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail
deep is made all round. The length of the band must vary according to
the size of the waist, and must be cut by Fig. L, which represents
it when doubled. The part from A to B, or that to which the apron is
fulled, is five nails and a half; from A to C is one nail and a half;
and from B to D is one full nail. The remainder of the band, from
B D, onwards to F, is determined by the size of the waist. A piece
of whalebone is stitched into the centre of the band, A C, and on
each side of it a little chain-stitch is worked, in thick silk, of
the same colour as the apron. The folds are exactly according to the
Plate, beginning within the hem, and laid evenly along until below the
whalebone, when a space is left. The chain-stitch is next worked in
two rows, parallel with the curved shape of the band, allowing little
more than a quarter of a nail between the rows. By this means the folds
are neatly confined, and it prevents the bustling effect they might
otherwise have. These folds are very small and close. The band has a
small piping below, but is plain at the top, and fastens behind with
hooks and eyes.
[Illustration: PLATE 11
Fig L Fig P
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4
Fig 5
Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9
Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13
Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 26
Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25
Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 27 Fig 28
Fig 29 Fig 30 Fig 32
Fig 31
Fig 33]
PLATE 11. FIG. 2.
This apron is generally made of silk, but looks well also in muslin.
It requires care in the making as well as in the washing. The vandykes
are formed by turning the edge of the apron down once, all round, to
about three-quarters of a nail deep; and, after tacking it firmly down,
vandykes are neatly run, in very small stitches (Fig. 5), from the
edge of the apron to pretty near the rough edge of the silk, leaving
sufficient to turn in well afterwards:—thus, let the vandykes be run
to the depth of from A to B, leaving a small space all the way from B
to C. When finished turn each vandyke inside out, and smooth all the
wrinkles at the corners and points with a stiletto or scissors. When it
is well and evenly pulled out, turn in the rough edge and hem it neatly
down. Sometimes a little braid, or a row of chain-stitch, is put over
the stitches on the right side. The plaits are regularly laid, those
on each side being folded towards the middle. The band is frequently
lined with buckram or stiff muslin, and is made with or without piping.
Scollops are sometimes substituted for vandykes.
PLATE 11. FIG. 3.
This apron is of muslin, either clear or otherwise. A broad hem is made
all round, of the proper width to admit a coloured or white ribbon of
the half or three-quarter nail breadth. Some fine work or edging may
be sewed to the hem all round. The band should be open at the ends to
admit of the ribbon that ties it being drawn out when the apron is
washed. The hem all round should also be kept open at the ends for the
same purpose, and merely tacked up when the ribbon is put in.
PLATE 11. FIG. 4.
This is an apron with a broad hem all round, and a full frill of any
fine material.
PLATE 11. FIG. 6.
A clear muslin apron, with a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail
deep, and a shawl bordering laid all round within the hem, either half
or three-quarters of a nail deep. This is a pretty apron for a young
person. The bordering must be taken off before the apron is washed.
PLATE 11. FIG. 7.
This represents the bottom of an apron when hollowed out. It has a
simple broad hem, turned up with a piping.
PLATE 11. FIG. 8.
The broad hem here is surrounded by a deep crimped frill of about a
nail broad. These aprons are generally made of jaconet or cambric
muslin, and the frill of cambric or lawn. They are very suitable for
ladies to wear in a morning when cutting out, or in the housekeeper’s
room.
PLATE 11. FIG. 9.
This is a pretty evening apron, made with a broad hem, and muslin
insertion-work let in all round, inside which, coloured ribbon may or
may not be run. Edging, either of lace or worked muslin, is put on all
round.
APRON POCKETS.
These vary very much, some being laid on the apron as in Fig. 3, 4,
and 6; others put on at the back, a slit being made in the apron to
correspond with the place of the pockets. These last are made as
in Fig. P, from a long double piece, which, being sewed up, is cut
diagonally or crosswise, from A to B, and forms two pockets, the part
cut being sewed to the slit of the apron. The whole length of the
narrow piece, before it is cut, is six nails, and the width, when
double, two nails. The slit in the apron is neatly hemmed, and a
trimming of ribbon or silk put round it, with a bow at the bottom, or a
fringe and tassels.
In Fig. 3 the pocket is a piece of two nails and a half deep and five
nails wide. This piece is plaited in regular folds at the top to a
lining of only two nails and a half deep, and the same width. The
bottom is fulled nearly to a point in small folds, and the lining,
being turned in to the same shape, is sewed to it with a piping. The
pocket is then stitched firmly on to the apron, and trimmed according
to fancy. One or three small bows are put on the pocket.
In Fig. 4 the pocket is cut in the shape of a heart, and put plainly on
the apron. It is about two nails and three-quarters wide, and two nails
and a half deep. The pocket is piped or trimmed with edging.
In Fig. 6 the pocket is particularly neat and pretty, being made of
folds of the same material as the apron, with a coloured piping all
round it, and three bows the same colour as the piping.
COMMON APRONS.
The simplest kind, and that generally worn by working men, is a yard
wide or more, hemmed at the bottom and at the top, with a string run
through to tie round the waist. It is thus worn by brewers, &c.
PLATE 11. FIG. 10.
This is a simple shape, and the one most in use. It is either plaited
or gathered into the band, which is about a nail deep. These aprons
are usually worn by all servants and women while at work. Blue, check,
and brown linen are most used for scouring and cleaning; white linen,
Holland, and print, for less dirty employments. Ladies wear them of
silk or muslin, with or without pockets.
PLATE 11. FIG. 11.
This is a pretty apron, often worn by girls from eight to sixteen or
eighteen years of age. The bib is made of the proper size to fit in
front, between the shoulders of the wearer, coming down in a slope to
the waist. These bibs may be plain, or they are ornamented with tucks
or folds, either upright or length-wise. The shoulder-strap may be of
the same material, or of tape or ribbon. The apron is gathered evenly,
or plaited so as to reach to A on each side, which is situated exactly
between the bottom of the bib and the shoulder-strap behind.
PLATE 11. FIG. 12.
May be worn either as a common or as a pretty dress apron, according
to the material and trimming. It may be made of silk, coloured
muslin, or print. After being properly gathered into the band, two
shoulder-straps, in the form of four lappets, are cut out, either
pointed, as in A, or rounded, as in B. These lappets may be piped, and
either edged with lace or fringe, or left plain. For a full size, the
lappet is five nails along the selvage, from D to C, and one nail and
three-quarters from C to B. The two straps are sewed together at C, and
fastened with a bow of ribbon. The lappet is piped all round with a
strong cord, to make it wear well.
PLATE 11. FIG. 13.
This shape is much worn by men servants, apothecaries, grocers,
&c., and is simply gathered into a band, leaving a piece of two
nails unattached to it, A B, which is hemmed at the top, and falls
negligently down.
A COOKING APRON.
PLATE 11. FIG. 14.
This is a neat pattern for a housekeeper, cook, or kitchen-maid. The
bib is quite plain, and pins to the gown at the corners. The size given
in the Plate is suitable for a girl, but the bib should be cut to suit
the wearer at once, and not made by guess. The apron is made of check
or strong linen.
A PANTRY APRON.
PLATE 11. FIG. 15.
A very good shape for men servants to wear when trimming lamps,
cleaning shoes and knives, &c. The apron is about a yard and a quarter
long, and it is made of strong linen or calico. The tape for the neck
should be nine or ten nails long. A pocket may be added in front. The
corners of the apron are simply turned down to the distance of five
nails and a half from the top (see A A), the letters, A A, being each
exactly five nails and a half from B. These corners are either sewed or
strongly hemmed down.
GENTLEMEN’S WORKSHOP APRON.
PLATE 11. FIG. 16.
This is very useful for gentlemen when turning, or using tools, and is
generally made of Holland or strong white or brown linen. The width is
fifteen or sixteen nails; the part for the neck four and a half, five,
or more, according to the width across the shoulders of the wearer.
The depth of this part two nails and a half or more. The straps, about
eight nails and a half long, cross each other from the neck to the
half of the shoulder part of the apron; which plan holds it up neatly
in front, and makes it set more comfortably. A pocket may be added,
according to pleasure, in front, or two at the sides. A slit in the
apron, bound round with tape, and a square piece put on behind it,
looks the neatest as a pocket.
SENTIMENT, FIANCÉE, OR NECK-TIE.
PLATE 11. FIG. 17, 18.
This is made of velvet, satin, or silk, and is worn for the purpose
of keeping the neck warm, and as a finish to the dress. It is made of
two colours, which are joined in the middle and lined with sarsenet:
the silk or other material is cut crosswise and pointed at the ends.
The sentiment is six or seven nails long from point to point, when
made up, and within one nail and a half of the point at one end, is
fastened with strong stitches or a silk ring. When the tie is worn, the
other point is passed through the ring and drawn close. Sometimes the
neck-tie is of a dark coloured silk in the middle with two coloured
ends.
A DRESS SCARF OR CAPRICE.
PLATE 11. FIG. 19, 20.
This is made of the broadest satin ribbon that can be procured, say two
nails and a half wide, and is two yards and three-quarters long. Double
the ribbon on the wrong side exactly in two, and, while so doubled,
run across the width of the ribbon in a slanting direction (Fig. 19,
A B), and when opened, the scarf will set to the form of the neck. An
edging of swansdown is sewed all round, and the ends may be either
embroidered, braided, or left plain, according to the taste of the
wearer.
A CACHEMIRE OR INDIANA SCARF.
PLATE 11. FIG. 21.
This is a kind of scarf which is easily made, and is a pretty finish to
a walking dress, or may be worn in an evening at home: it is formed of
three colours, say black, scarlet, and light blue. To make one scarf,
you will want one yard and six nails in length and four nails and a
half in width, of the black cachemire.
Sometimes the length of the scarf will lie in the width of the
material, in which case it will be a great saving of expense. Procure
a piece of each of the other two colours, seven nails long, and of the
same width as the black, viz., four nails and a half. Find the middle
of each end of the black strip, and slope off one nail and a half from
the middle to each side (see Fig. 21, A C A D): next, slope one end of
the blue, and one end of the scarlet strip, to accord exactly with the
black strip, cutting the nail and a half from the middle to the ends.
After this, split the blue and the scarlet pieces down the middle, sew
half the blue and half the scarlet very accurately, first together, and
then to the black strip, making the points fit in as neatly as possible
to the half strips: do the same at the other end, arranging the colours
so as to be at cross corners with each other. Observe that the pieces
are sewed flatly together, and herring-boned all round on the right
side. A narrow silk gymp, one-third of a nail wide, is laid at the edge
and upon all the joinings; this gymp should be of some clear bright
colour, as yellow and deep brown or gold colour, and at the ends is a
silk fringe of blue and scarlet, to match the two half strips.
A SIMPLE SCARF.
This is made of plain net or tulle, the whole width of the material,
say three-quarters of a yard, and three yards long. A broad hem is made
all round, wide enough to admit of a satin ribbon of a three-penny
breadth.
STAYS OR CORSETS.
PLATE 11.
It is impossible to give any particular patterns or sizes of stays, as
they must, of course, be cut differently, according to the figure, and
be variously supported with more or less bones or runners of cotton,
according to the age, strength, or constitution of the wearer; we
shall, therefore, confine ourselves to a few observations on the making
up: and with respect to the cutting out, it is recommended to those who
make their own stays, to purchase a pair from an experienced stay-maker
that fit perfectly well, and also a pair cut out, but not made up, so
as to be a good pattern for the home-made stays.
WOMEN’S STAYS.
PLATE 11. FIG. 22.
If for ladies, they are made of sattine, or best French jean, which is
half a yard wide, and about 20_d._ or 2_s._ per yard: if of an inferior
quality, they are made of white, brown, grey, or nankeen jean, at 8_d._
or 10_d._ per yard, and lined with calico between the doubles. The stay
is generally lined between the two pieces of jean with union cloth or
Irish linen in every part excepting the gores. Stays are usually cut in
four parts, all of which are generally upon the cross, as this assists
materially in making them set better to the figure. Two of the pieces
reach from each side of the back, nearly to the hips, and the other two
from thence to the middle of the busk or steel. There are two gores on
each side for the bosom, and two larger ones on each side below, for
the hips.
The necessary bones are as follows:
A steel in the middle, which should be narrower at the top than at the
bottom, and confined in a strong wash-leather, before being put into
the stay-case.
Two bones at the extreme ends, to prevent the holes from bursting
beyond the edge.
We may also add, as they are in common use, a second bone down each
back, on the other side of the lace-holes.
Bones between the front bosom gores, on each side; but these should be
very thin and elastic, and are seldom wanted unless the wearer requires
much additional support.
Two other bones, one on each side, from about a nail below each
arm-hole to the bottom of the stay.
A few slight rib or cross-bones are sometimes put in.
It is as well to observe that unless particularly feeble, or otherwise
an invalid, it is most desirable to wear as few bones as possible; and
that for healthy persons, the two back bones, with the steel in front,
are quite sufficient. The casing of the steel in front is sometimes
made elastic to the depth of four nails from the top, by means of
Indian rubber runners; which adds much to the comfort of asthmatic or
delicate persons. (See Fig. 23.)
On each side of the steel is a cotton runner, and these are also put in
various other parts of the stays, according to fancy.
ON MAKING UP.
The needles used for making stays are called the _between_ needles.
Strong sewing silk, called stay-silk, is used for the best corsets,
and strong waxed cotton for the common ones. In sewing the seams, take
great care to turn in the work properly, so as to have all the rough
edges within the stay: for this purpose, first turn down the outside
and inside piece of jean lying on one side of the seam, with the rough
edges and the lining prepared as if for common sewing; do the same
with the other side of the seam, placing the two seams, thus prepared,
side by side, and sew them firmly together. It will have the effect of
a double ordinary seam, when held between the finger and thumb. The
mode of sewing these four thicknesses so as to make them lie flatly
when opened, is rather peculiar. Take up with your needle, three of
the thicknesses, leaving the fourth unsewed. The next stitch, take
again three folds, leaving the other outside one unsewed: continue
alternately taking up one outside and omitting the other, letting the
stitches lie close together: when completed, open the seam, and flatten
it with the finger and thumb.
The gores are next laid between the doubles of jean, and neatly
back-stitched all round; the narrow parts at the top being worked in
button-hole stitch.
The bone-cases are then made, and the cotton runners back-stitched.
The oylet or lace-holes are next worked, and after the stay-bones are
put in, the top and bottom of the stays, with the shoulder-straps, are
neatly bound with stay-binding.
As there are many varieties in the shapes of the different parts of
stays, they will be described in detail, under their respective heads.
GORES.
These are sometimes made of elastic wires, as in Fig. 23, sometimes of
Indian rubber, and sometimes of a kind of elastic twill.
SHOULDER-STRAPS
Are made of the same material as the stays, and back-stitched to the
front and back of the shoulder. Sometimes they are buttoned down in the
front, which enables the wearer, by unbuttoning them, to dress her hair
in an evening with perfect ease. (See Fig. 22.)
Others have oylet-holes to admit of bobbins, which lace them to
corresponding holes in the stays. (See Fig. 24.)
A piece of Indian rubber or elastic wire, of about one nail in length,
is frequently sewed to the end of the strap, and this is considered the
most convenient, as it will lengthen or contract at pleasure.
LACE-HOLES
Are generally worked round in button-hole stitch; sometimes tape is
laced from the outside through these holes, being drawn through every
other hole till they reach the top, and then brought down again,
drawing it round the edge, through the intermediate holes; this
preserves them from being worn. (See Fig. 26.) Others insert in every
hole a ring, called a patent lace-hole. These are very durable, but are
said to destroy the laces.
MODESTY-PIECE.
To the top of the stay is sometimes attached a small modesty-piece,
which for some people is an excellent contrivance, as it makes it set
more closely and delicately in front. This extra piece is all in one,
and is the cross-way; it is carried along the whole of the front of the
stay: it is about half a nail deep over the bosom, and sloped off to
a quarter of a nail over the stay-bone; at the top of this additional
strip, which is bound all round, a bobbin is run to draw it up. When
drawn properly, this modesty lies over the bosom so as to shade it
delicately, whereas if it were cut all in one piece with the stay
it would make it higher, but it would stand out, and not answer the
desired end. (See Fig. 25.)
NURSING STAYS.
It is essential to open the front of nursing stays, so as to give the
mother the greatest ease while feeding her infant; for this purpose,
care should be taken that no stay-bones or hard buttons should come in
contact with the child’s face: the two or three best modes of opening
them are the following:
Leave open that side of the bosom gore which is next to the
shoulder-strap, to the depth of a full nail and a half; neatly bind
the side of the gore, and after back-stitching the opposite side, sew
on very firmly two buttons, one at the top and the other lower down.
To the gore is attached two loops, by which it can be buttoned or
unbuttoned at pleasure. (See Fig. 24.)
Another mode is that of leaving open the outer sides of those gores
nearest the steel or middle of the stays.
These sides, and the parts with which they accord, have oylet-holes
worked down them, exactly opposite to each other. Through each
oylet-hole in the gore, pass a bobbin of about two nails and a quarter
long, which is fastened at one end firmly to the wrong side, just
behind the oylet-hole. The other end of each bobbin is drawn across to
the inner side of the corresponding hole, and pulled through. By this
arrangement all the ends of the bobbins lace up the whole gore. The
bobbins are sewed together at the ends, forming a loop to attach it to
a button on each side of the steel (see Fig. 23, A B).
These bobbins should be carefully cut and joined, so as to pull the
gores properly in their places. When it is unbuttoned the whole front
lets down comfortably. It is advisable to sew a little fold or oblong
piece to the stay on the inside, which forms a flap to lie between the
shift and the opening, as a guard from cold.
MEN’S STAYS, OR BELTS.
PLATE 11. FIG. 27, 28.
These are worn by gentlemen in the army, hunters, or by those using
violent exercise.
They are made of strong jean, duck, leather, or webbing.
Sometimes the stay is merely a strip or belt, as Fig. 28; at others it
is a little shaped or peaked, as Fig. 27. Towards the ends is sewed a
piece of elastic work (see Fig. 28 E). Runners of cotton are made in
various places to strengthen the whole. Long webbing straps are sewed
three on each end. These straps are sewed on with pieces of leather
over them, and are about three nails deep. The length is, of course,
determined by the size of the wearer.
BELT FOR A HUNTER OR COACHMAN.
This is often merely a simple leather belt, with three tongues and
buckles.
CHILD’S LITTLE STAY.
PLATE 11. FIG. 33.
This is made of fine jean, doubled, of three nails depth, and of the
width required by the child. Cord runners are made in front, and at the
backs, and buttons are put on, before and behind, for the drawers and
flannels to be attached to.
AN OLDER CHILD’S STAY.
PLATE 11. FIG. 29.
This is formed of double jean, and may be lined between with Irish
linen. If it is preferred, all the runners may have cotton drawn
through them, so as to admit of no bones.
BUSTLES.
PLATE 11. FIG. 30, 32.
Bustles are worn by those whose shape requires something to set off
the skirt of the gown. They should not be too large, or they look
indelicate, and in bad taste. They are made of jean, strong calico, and
sometimes of glazed calico.
Fig. 30 represents a simple bustle of strong calico. It is composed of
one piece the width of the calico, say a yard, and eight nails deep.
This piece is doubled in two, so as to make two flounces, the one four
nails and a half long, and the other three and a half. At one nail from
the doubled top make a narrow case to admit of tapes. The bottoms of
the flounces are hemmed with a very thick cord in them. When worn, the
bustle is turned inside out, by which means the frill falls between the
two flounces (see Fig. 32).
Fig. 31 is merely two flounces of jean, one four nails deep and the
other three nails, gathered into a tape at the top and vandyked at the
bottom.
Some persons wear down bustles (see Fig. 33), which are made of
glazed lining muslin. A flat half circle or oval is cut out, about
two nails and a half wide by two nails deep, and another piece, of
an oblong shape, rounded at the corners, much longer and deeper, say
three-quarters of a yard long by four nails and a half deep, is fulled
into the smaller piece on one side, and into a tape on the other or
top, thus making a bag to contain the down, which should be either
swan’s or the best goose down.
VEILS.
The subject of veils is one that may soon be dismissed, as a few words
on the materials of which they are composed, together with the usual
sizes, comprises all that can be said upon them.
Veils for ordinary wear may be of a kind of soft tulle, made on
purpose, of net, gauze, or crape. The size for a grown-up person is
from thirteen nails to a yard long, and about twenty nails wide; for
a child, eleven nails long, and the width is determined by that of
the material. Demi-voiles are about four nails deep, and the width is
regulated by that of the bonnet to which they are attached.
A pretty way of making a net or tulle veil is by hemming a satin ribbon
half a nail deep all round it, either the same colour, or, if the veil
is white, of some pale shade to suit the bonnet or the dress. This,
by strengthening the edges, makes the veil wear better than it would
otherwise do.
A crape or gauze veil is simply hemmed all round, the hem being deeper
at the bottom to give it a little weight. A ribbon is run in at the top.
Mourning veils are of black crape. They should be made of what is
termed the best, or jet black crape, as the blue-black soon wears
whitish, and looks shabby. The other, though the most expensive at
first, is the best economy in the end. They are made quite plainly,
with a broad hem all round—say three-quarters of a nail deep.
Demi-voiles, when not of blonde, Chantilly, or worked lace, are of
tulle, with ribbon run in. They should be set on the bonnet slightly,
fulled all round the brim, but much more so at the ears, to make
them hang well. A demi-voile should also be a little taken up at the
ears, so as not to be the full depth, which is apt to give a slovenly
appearance.
Riding veils are much shorter than any other kind except demi-voiles,
and sufficiently wide to draw nearly all round the hat. They are made
either of black lace, worked on purpose, or of brown or green crape.
It is a good plan to run a string through a riding-veil, both at the
top and bottom, taking care that the ribbon at the bottom is only just
as long as the veil is wide, so that it is not seen when not in use.
The advantage of this second string is, that in hot weather, and under
a glaring sun, the wearer may tie both ribbons round her hat, thus
forming a double veil for the protection of her eyes, whilst the lower
part of the face has all the benefit of the cool air.
SLEEVES.
PLATE 12.
Sleeves should, when it is possible, be cut upon the cross; for which
purpose a corner of the material should be turned up, until the doubled
part, which is the cross way, is large enough to admit of the length
and width of the sleeve.
Silk is sometimes too narrow for a very large sleeve to be made without
joining, when care should be taken to join together two selvages. The
joinings must be so contrived as to set either under, or at the back of
the sleeves.
[Illustration: Plate 12.
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7
Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 8
Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 21
Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Fig. 29
Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35]
In order to make sleeves set well, they are hollowed out, as it is
called, which is nothing more than cutting away a little of the front,
at the top, so as to make it less deep than the back, observing always
that it is straight in the front, the crosswise part of the sleeve
falling behind. This is of great importance, as the set of the sleeve
depends upon it. Of course attention must be paid to make them in pairs.
There are so many ways of finishing sleeves, and so many fancies
about them, that to describe them all would be equally impossible and
useless. A few rows of biassing, both at the top and bottom, or small
plaits, confined once or twice by narrow bands, or by back-stitching,
give a very neat appearance when the sleeve is at all a full one.
For lining sleeves, see the description in Chapter I.
A CHILD’S FIRST SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 1, 2.
This is a neat shape for a child of a year old, before which time their
sleeves are generally cut straight, and merely sloped down to the cuff.
Turn up your material seven nails, and, after cutting a pattern
according to the figure, lay it on the piece and cut by it.
The pattern is cut as follows (see Fig. 2):—Take half a square of seven
nails each way, and from A to B measure two nails; the same from A to
H, and mark across, letting the wrist be one nail and three-quarters
wide. From B to C is four nails, between which, measure downwards, one
nail and a half, and curve from B, by L, to C, which is one nail from
D. Measure next to E, three nails, and curve from C to E, and again
from E to G, which is two nails from F.
The part marked D in all the sleeves is double. When made up it
resembles Fig. 1.
AN OLDER CHILD’S SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 3, 4.
Turn up seven nails crosswise, and cut as follows, see Fig. 4:—
SCALE.
+-------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B | 1¾ |
| From A to C | 1½ |
+-------------+-------+
Cut across one nail and a quarter for the wrist.
SCALE.
+----------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to E is | 6 |
| From E to F | 1 |
+----------------+-------+
Slope gradually from B to F.
SCALE.
+-------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From the corner, K to G | 3½ |
| From the corner, I to H | 1½ |
+-------------------------+-------+
Slope from F to G, and from G to H.
In making up Fig. 3, after joining the seams, and hemming or piping
it at the bottom, gather it into the arm-hole at the top, and make a
string-case just above the elbow to confine it as in the Plate. If
preferred, it may be gathered above the elbow, and a narrow band put on.
LONG SLEEVE FOR A GROWN-UP PERSON.
PLATE 12. FIG. 5, 6.
This is cut as follows:—Turn up your paper pattern, or material, nine
nails upon the cross (see Fig. 6).
SCALE.
+----------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B is | 2 |
| From A to J is | 2 |
+----------------+-------+
Cut straight from J to B for the wrist.
SCALE.
+----------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From B to C | 3 |
| From C to E | 3 |
| From E to the corner | 1 |
+----------------------+-------+
Cut straight from B to K, which is two nails below C. Cut in a sweep
from K to the point, O, which is a quarter of a nail below E.
SCALE.
+----------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From the corner to F | 3½ |
| From F to G | 2½ |
| From G to H | 3 |
| From H to I | 2 |
+----------------------+-------+
Cut in a sweep from O to F, and from G to I.
The making up is perfectly simple. It is for a small-sized person.
THE CIRCULAR LONG SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 7, 8.
This takes rather more of the material than the other shapes, but it is
so easily cut out, and looks so well when made up, that it is allowed a
place here.
For the full size it is a perfect circle, in a square of about fifteen
nails.
After the circle is formed, double it in half (see Fig. 8); measure
at A B a sufficient width to admit of the wrist, and slit up, in a
slightly curving line, from B to C for about four nails, to form the
arm of the sleeve. A little of the circle, from E towards B, is then
sloped off to form the hollowing.
When made up, this part, E, is all taken up and gathered into the
shoulder-strap. It is considered to hang particularly well, falling
over the tight part of the sleeve (see Fig. 7.)
A PLAIN LONG SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 9, 10.
Turn up your material a yard or fifteen nails. If it will not permit of
this being done without joining, add a straight piece along the dotted
line, running the two selvages together. Cut out as follows:
SCALE.
+----------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B is | 3 |
| From A to C | 2 |
| From B to L | 3 |
| From L to E | 3 |
| From E to F | 6 |
| From F to G | 8 |
| From G to H | 8 |
| From H to I | 4 |
+----------------+-------+
Cut from C to within half a nail below B for the wrist. Cut nearly
straight from B to O, which is two nails and a half below L, and in a
sweep from O to E.
Sweep well from E to G, and from G to I.
The making up is perfectly simple.
A FULL SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 11, 12.
Turn up fifteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:—
SCALE.
+--------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B | 8 |
| From B to E | 7 |
| From E to F | 7 |
| From F to H | 5 |
| From the side to G | 1¾ |
| From H to I | 3 |
| From I to J | 2 |
| From A to C | 3¼ |
+--------------------+-------+
Curve from C to B; from B to F. Hollow from F to G, and cut nearly
straight from G to H.
It is made up either quite simply, or with one or two rows of biassing
below the gathers at the top.
ANOTHER FULL SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 13, 14.
Turn up thirteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:—
SCALE.
+-------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B | 8 |
| From A to C | 2¼ |
| From B to O | 5 |
| From O to E | 3 |
| From E to F | 6 |
| From F to G | 2 |
| From F to H | 2 |
| From H to I | 3 |
| From I to J | 2 |
+-------------+-------+
Slope in a regular curve from C, by B, to E. Curve easily from E to G,
and cut nearly straight from G to H. Cut from H to I for the wrist.
A SMALL SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 15, 16.
Turn up your material so that the cross part, is seventeen nails long.
Cut as follows (Fig. 16):
SCALE.
+-------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B | 3¼ |
| From A to C | 2 |
| From B to E | 5¾ |
| From E to F | 3 |
| From F to G | 8 |
| From G to H | 3½ |
| From H to I | 3½ |
+-------------+-------+
Slope, in an equal and full curve, from C, by B, to F. Cut straight
from G to I.
AN OLD WOMAN’S SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 17, 18.
This is an economical kind of sleeve, worn much by the working classes.
Double your material either on the cross or nearly straight, according
to taste and economy. From A to B, the doubled part, is ten nails and
a half. C is the point opposite O, which is two nails below B. Slope,
in an outward curve, from B to C, and then, taking but one fold of the
silk, cut the inward curve from B to C, which forms the hollowing or
inside of the sleeve.
A BOY’S SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 19, 20.
This is for a boy of about six years old, who wears tunics of cloth.
The sleeve, when doubled, is six nails long, four nails wide at the
top, and one nail and three-quarters at the wrist. A is three nails
from the top, opposite to which is B.
Curve from C to B, hollowing out one fold. Fig. 20 represents the
sleeve made up.
A BOY’S SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 21.
This sleeve is for a boy’s coat or tunic, and has two seams in it, like
a man’s coat sleeve.
Take two pieces of cloth eight nails long and three wide. A is half way
down the length. Curve from A to the bottom, to within half a nail from
the corner. Curve from B to C at two nails from the top, and from A to
B at three-quarters of a nail from the side, which forms the elbow.
Curve from C to the bottom, at three-quarters of a nail from the side.
A WOMAN’S LARGE SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 22, 23.
Turn up your material fourteen nails, and double it so as to be sixteen
nails long at the top, A C E.
SCALE.
+----------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| From A to B is | 2 |
| From A to C | 8 |
| From C to E | 8 |
| From E to F | 2 |
| From F to G | 6 |
| From G to H | 3 |
| From G to I | 6 |
| From I to J | 7 |
+----------------+-------+
Sweep gradually from B, past C, to F. Curve again from F to H. Cut in a
straight line from H to J.
In making up, the sleeve may be biassed one nail from the top, and a
piped band laid on, and again three or four times at the wrist, or it
may be confined above the elbow; in which case it must be made a little
longer than would otherwise be necessary.
This is a pattern that can only be used when large sleeves are worn;
but, being a good shape, it is hoped it may prove acceptable.
SHORT SLEEVES.
PLATE 12. FIG. 24, 25, 26.
These are for dresses, frocks, or even petticoats, when full sleeves
are worn and liked.
Cut the pattern of the whole sleeve in paper; and then, turning up your
material to a sufficient size crosswise, lay the sleeve open upon it,
placing the long side of the pattern upon the cross or doubled part of
the material. Both sleeves may thus be cut out at once.
SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES.
+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+
| ———————— | Large | Second | Third |
| | size. | size. | size. |
+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails.|
|Turn up the material at the side| 17 | 13 | 12 |
|From A to B | 3 | 2 | 3 |
|From A to C | 3 | 2 | 3 |
|From C to B | 2 | 1½ | 2 |
|From B to D | 14 | 10 | 8 |
|From D to E | 15 | 11 | 9½ |
|From E to F | 2 | 2 | 3 |
|From F to G | 2 | 3 | 2½ |
|From H to I | 6 | 5 | 4½ |
|From C to G | 20 | 14 | 12 |
|Length of band, say | 5½ | 5 | 4½ |
+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+
| | | Small | |
| ———————— | Girl’s | girl’s |Child’s|
| | size. | size. | size. |
+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails.|
|Turn up the material at the side| 9 | 6½ | 5½ |
|From A to B | 2 | 1 | 1 |
|From A to C | 2 | 1 | 1 |
|From C to B | 1½ | ¾ | ¾ |
|From B to D | 7½ | 5 | 4½ |
|From D to E | 7 | 5 | 4½ |
|From E to F | 2 | 1½ | 1 |
|From F to G | 2 | 1½ | 1 |
|From H to I | 3½ | 2½ | 2 |
|From C to G | 9 | 7 | 6 |
|Length of band, say | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ |
+--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+
When cut out, fold each sleeve in half (see Fig. 26), and hollow one
fold out to form the inside.
Take care to hollow the sleeves properly, so as to make a pair, the
straight part of the sleeve being in front, which is to be hollowed. If
the sleeve should require joining, sew two selvages together (see the
dotted line, Fig. 25).
In making up, the bottom of the sleeve may be either set into a band,
as in the Plate, or into a piping; at the top it is gathered, and
frequently a piping is put round it, which gives it a neat finish: it
is set into the dress quite plainly under the arms; the fulness is
thrown a little back, for if brought too forward, it is very unbecoming
to the figure.
SHORT SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 27, 28, 29.
These are cut out exactly like Fig. 25, excepting that after the sleeve
is simply cut out, a triangular piece is taken from the top of the
doubled part of it, and a triangle of worked muslin inserted. To cut
out this piece, double the sleeve, as in Fig. 29, and cut off from A to
B: when opened again, it will resemble Fig. 28, and when made up, it
will be like Fig. 27.
In making up, after setting the sleeve into a band or piping at the
bottom, gather it at the top and sew it to the triangular piece,
throwing the fulness pretty equally at the sides, and making it very
full at the point of the triangle. Sometimes the triangle is piped to
make it firmer.
CIRCULAR SHORT SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 30, 31, 32.
This is another kind of short sleeve, being cut out of a circle. It
is hollowed a little (see Fig. 30), A B, for the inside of the arm. A
circular hole is cut in the centre, a little larger than the width of
the arm; this inner circle is gathered and set into the band, and the
outer one, also gathered, is sewed into the arm-hole of the dress.
The following are good sizes for circular sleeves, all of which must be
cut out of squares.
SCALE.
+-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+
| ———————— |Full |Second| Third|Girl’s|Child’s|Baby’s|
| |size. |size. | size.| size.| size. |size. |
+-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+
| |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| Nails.|Nails.|
|Size of the square | 18 | 15 | 13½ | 11 | 9 | 7 |
|Size of the hole across| 3½ | 3¼ | 3¼ | 2½ | 2 | 1¾ |
|Length of the band | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ |
+-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+
TIGHT SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 33, 34, 35.
This sleeve may be used either for petticoats, or, when tight sleeves
are worn, for evening dresses, and children’s frocks, in which case it
is ornamented in different ways.
Turn up the material on the perfect cross, and for the better cutting
it out, double it again, as in Fig. 33, on which four folds lay your
pattern, D being the doubled part.
Turn up your material eight nails, then fold it from A to B, Fig. 35,
and cut as follows, see Fig. 33:
SCALE.
+----------------+---------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B is | 3 |
| From A to C | 3 |
| From B to E | 4½ |
| From E to F | 2 |
| From F to G | 3½ |
| From C to H | ½ |
+----------------+---------+
Cut from B to C, sweep from B to F, and then cut from H, which is half
a nail above C, to G.
[Illustration: PLATE 13
Fig. 1 Fig. 6 Fig. 9 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14
Fig. 2 Fig. 7 Fig. 10 Fig. 16 Fig. 15
Fig. 3 Fig. 39 Fig. 17 Fig. 18
Fig. 4 Fig. 8 Fig. 11 Fig. 19 Fig. 20
Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23
Fig. 5 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 Fig. 27
Fig. 28 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33
Fig. 34 Fig. 35 Fig. 36 Fig. 37 Fig. 38]
SHOULDER-PIECES, COLLARS, CAPES &c.
PLATE 13.
As the above articles, together with pelerines, tippets, and
collarettes, are required for cloaks, gowns, pelisses, frocks,
and dressing-gowns, it is advisable to class them under a head by
themselves, by which means they can be more readily explained, without
confusion or repetition, and the pattern wanted for any particular
dress, referred to.
Patterns of the prettiest and most varied forms are selected, together
with a few scales for different sizes.
OBSERVE that the Plates represent but half of the pattern, which is
supposed to be double at the end marked D; also NOTICE, that they are
drawn to a scale of the exact size of the pattern when _made up_,
so that about a quarter of a nail must be allowed all round for the
turnings in. It is a good plan, when cutting out any difficult shape,
to make a pattern on paper, very accurately, first; and then to lay it
on the material and cut by it.
As it would be impossible to describe any intricate shape clearly,
without putting it into some regular form, it is deemed necessary to
enclose each pattern within an oblong or a square, on the sides of
which are marked distinctly the nails, so that by making a figure on
paper to a scale of real nails in the same proportion, and marking with
great accuracy the parts, which the extreme points of the irregular
pattern within, touch, the shape may be easily obtained by curving
inwardly or outwardly from point to point, according to the shape to be
represented in the drawing. It is always preferable to cut the above
articles crosswise, both before and behind, as they set much better
to the shape, especially behind; for the sake of economy, they are
sometimes cut straight-wise with one end placed against the selvage;
sometimes the collar or cape is joined behind with a neat piping, in
which case the back of the pattern is frequently laid against the
selvage and the points made to lie crosswise. The Plate represents the
patterns as cut on the most economical plan, shewing whether the front
or back should be straight-wise. Observe that if one side of the back
be cut across, the other side must be so likewise, and if one side of
the back be cut selvage-wise, so must the corresponding; whereas, with
regard to the front ends, one side may be straight, while the other is
on the cross.
IN CUTTING CROSSWISE.
Turn up a sufficient quantity of the corner of the material, like a
half-handkerchief, and laying the pattern with the part marked D on the
doubled part of the material, cut it out, allowing a quarter of a nail
all round for the turning in.
IN CUTTING STRAIGHT-WISE.
Double the material selvage-wise to the proper width, and cut out
according to the paper pattern, still placing D on the folded part of
the muslin.
SHOULDER-PIECES.
Are generally employed in dressing-gowns, cloaks, and capes, also in
boys’ high dresses. It is the part to which the skirt or deep cape is
fulled, and should be made to set particularly well to the figure, else
the whole dress will have an awkward appearance.
In making up, the shoulder-pieces are generally lined, unless they are
intended for any light article of dress. If they are meant for a cloak
or warm cape, a piece of fine flannel or demet, is often put between
the material of which the cloak is made and the lining, with a piping
round the edge.
A NEAT SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK.
PLATE 13. FIG. 1.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
|Width of square when doubled | 3½ |
|Length of square | 5¾ |
|Space from A to B | 2¾ |
|Space from B to C | 3 |
|Space from C to D | 1½ |
|Space from D to E | 2 |
|Space from E to F | 1 |
|Space from F to G | 1 |
|Space from F to H | 2½ |
|Space from H to I | 2¼ |
+-----------------------------+-------+
Shape off in a gradual curve from D to B, from B to I. Cut in a
straight line from D to G. Slope from G to H.
SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A CHILD’S CLOAK.
PLATE 13. FIG. 2.
SCALE.
+----------------------------+-------+
| |Nails. |
|Length of square | 4¼ |
|Width of square when folded | 3¼ |
|Space from A to B | 3 |
|Space from B to C | 1¼ |
|Space from D to E | ½ |
|Space from E to F | 1¾ |
|Space from E to G | 1¾ |
|Space from G to H | 2 |
+----------------------------+-------+
Cut in a straight line from C to J. Curve gradually from F to G, and
from B to H.
A VERY NEAT SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK.
PLATE 13. FIG. 3
SCALE.
+----------------------------+---------------+-------------+
| ———————— |Shoulder-piece.| Collar for a|
| | |baby’s cloak.|
+----------------------------+---------------+-------------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of square | 4¼ | 4 |
|Width of square when double | 3¾ | 3½ |
|Space from A to B | 2¼ | 1½ |
|Space from B to C | 2 | 2½ |
|Space from C to D | 1¾ | 1½ |
|Space from D to E | 2 | 2 |
|Space from E to F | 1¾ | 2 |
|Space from F to G | 2½ | 2 |
|Space from G to H | 1½ | 2 |
+----------------------------+---------------+-------------+
Form the curve from B to H, so as to end without abruptness, and be
lost in the straight line. Round well from B to D.
SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A BABY’S CLOAK.
PLATE 13. FIG. 4.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
|Length of square | 3 |
|Width of square when doubled | 3 |
|Space from A to B | 2½ |
|Space from B to C | ½ |
|Space from C to D | ½ |
|Space from D to E | 2½ |
|Space from E to F | 1½ |
|Space from F to G | 1½ |
|Space from G to H | 1 |
+-----------------------------+-------+
SHOULDER-PIECE TO A CHILD’S PELISSE.
PLATE 13. FIG. 5.
This shape is much in use for spencers, pelisses, and boys’ high
dresses. The part marked S sets over the shoulder when the sleeve
is fulled on at the top. The parts marked B and F lie in the
middle, exactly behind, and in front; thus the pattern shows half
the shoulder-piece, the curve being for half round the neck. The
other half is piped and sewed on to it in front, and is fastened
behind by buttons. The fulness of the body is then sewed on to this
shoulder-piece, which is piped all round.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
|Length of square | 3 |
|Width of square | 3¼ |
|Space from A to B | ¾ |
|Space from B to C | 2¼ |
|Space from C to D | 1¼ |
|Space from D to E | ½ |
|Space from E to F | 1½ |
|Space from F to G | 1½ |
|Space from G to H, and from H to L | 1 |
+-----------------------------------+-------+
VARIOUS SIZES FOR CAPES AND TIPPETS FOR WOMEN AND CHILDREN.
PLATE 13. FIG. 6.
Column 1. A woman’s large cape for walking in.
Column 2. A woman’s large cape for morning dress.
Column 3. A child’s large cape for walking in.
Column 4. A woman’s collar.
Column 5. A child’s pretty cape for morning dress.
Column 6. A child’s cape for a pelisse.
Column 7. Pretty cape for the morning dress of a
child of four or five years old.
The Plate represents the pattern in the fourth column.
SCALE.
+-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+
| ———————— |No. 1.|No. 2.|No. 3.|No. 4.|No. 5.|No. 6.|No. 7.|
+-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+
| |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|
|Length of square | 12½ | 9¾ | 8½ | 7¾ | 8 | 7¼ | 6½ |
|Width of square | | | | | | | |
| doubled | 8¾ | 7¾ | 5½ | 5½ | 5 | 4¾ | 4½ |
|Width from A to B| 6½ | 4½ | 4½ | 4¾ | 5 | 3 | 3 |
|Width from B to C| 6 | 5¼ | 4 | 3 | 3 | 4¼ | 3½ |
|Width from C to D| 3¾ | 2¼ | 1½ | 1½ | 2½ | 2¾ | 1 |
|Width from D to E| 5 | 5½ | 4 | 3½ | 2½ | 2 | 3½ |
|Width from E to F| 2¾ | 1¾ | 2½ | 1½ | 2½ | 2 | 1 |
|Width from F to G| 1½ | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¾ | ½ | ½ | 1 |
|Width from F to H| 2¼ | 2 | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¾ | 3¼ |
|Width from H to I| 7 | 5¾ | 4¼ | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ |
|Width from I to J| 3¾ | 3 | ¼ | ½ | 1 | ¼ | |
+-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+
PLATE 13. FIG. 7.
Column 1. A neat collar for a woman’s cloak or dressing-gown.
Column 2. Rather smaller pattern of the above.
Column 3. A very neat collar for a girl of fourteen.
Column 4. A collar for a baby’s flannel cloak.
The Plate represents column 2.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+
| ———————— |No. 1.|No. 2.| No. 3.|No. 4.|
+------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+
| |Nails.|Nails.| Nails.|Nails.|
| Length of square | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | 4 |
| Width of square when doubled | 5¾ | 5½ | 5½ | 5 |
| Space from A to B | 1¾ | 1 | corner| ½ |
| | | |rounded| |
| Space from B to C | 3¾ | 4 | 4 | 3½ |
| Space from C to D | 3¼ | 3 | 2 | 2 |
| Space from D to E | 2 | 2½ | 3½ | 3 |
| Space from E to F | 2½ | 2¼ | 1¼ | 1 |
| Space from F to G | 3 | 2¾ | 3¼ | 3 |
| Space from G to H | ½ | ½ | | |
+------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+
In column 3, mark one quarter of a nail above the corner, G, and slope
off in a direct line from the mark to the opposite corner, A, which is
merely rounded off at the corner, about a quarter of a nail on each
side.
PLATE 13. FIG. 8.
A pretty collar to put on a silk mourning shawl, or for a dress or
cloak. Both the back and front must be on the cross.
SCALE.
+-------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 7½ |
| Width of square | 6½ |
| Space from A to B | 5½ |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 5 |
| Space from D to E | 1½ |
| Space from E to F | 3½ |
| Space from F to G | 4 |
| Space from G to H | 2½ |
+-------------------+-------+
A PARTICULARLY NEAT AND WELL-SETTING CAPE.
PLATE 13. FIG. 9.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 12 |
| Width of square when doubled | 8 |
| Space from A to B | 4 |
| Space from B to C | 8 |
| Space from C to D | 3 |
| Space from D to E | 5 |
| Space from E to F | 3¾ |
| Space from F to G | 2 |
| Space from F to H | 3 |
| Space from H to I | 5¼ |
| Space from I to J | 1¾ |
+------------------------------+-------+
PLATE 13. FIG. 10, 11.
Fig. 11 is a very pretty pattern for a walking cape, and is often worn
in mourning, with black crape gaufiered round the edge a nail deep, as
in the Plate. Fig. 10 is a simple collarette, which is sewed on the
cape to give it a finish.
SCALE TO FIG. 10.
+------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 4¼ |
| Width of square when doubled | 5½ |
| Space from A to B | 1 |
| Space from B to C | 3½ |
| Space from C to D | 2½ |
| Space from D to E | 3 |
| Space from E to F | 2 |
| Space from F to G | 2¼ |
| Space from G to H | 2 |
+------------------------------+-------+
SCALE TO FIG. 11.
+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 7½ |
| Width of square when doubled | 10½ |
| Space from A to B | 6½ |
| Space from B to C | 1 |
| Space from C to D | 1 |
| Space from D to E | 4 |
| Space from E to F | 5½ |
| Space from F to G | 1½ |
| Space from G to H | 3 |
| Space from G to I | 6 |
| Space from I to J | 7 |
+------------------------------+--------+
A REMARKABLY NEAT MORNING COLLAR.
PLATE 13. FIG. 12.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 10 |
| Width of square when doubled | 7½ |
| Space from A to B | 2¾ |
| Space from B to C | 7¼ |
| Space from C to D | 3½ |
| Space from D to E | 4 |
| Space from E to F | 2 |
| Space from F to G | 1½ |
| Space from F to H | 2¼ |
| Space from H to I | 5¾ |
+------------------------------+--------+
A PRETTY LITTLE CAPE FOR A BABY’S CLOAK OR PELISSE.
PLATE 13. FIG. 13.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 3¼ |
| Width of square when doubled | 3 |
| Space from A to B | 1¼ |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 1¼ |
| Space from D to E | 1¾ |
| Space from E to F | ½ |
| Space from F to G | 1 |
| Space from F to H | ¾ |
| Space from H to I | 2 |
+------------------------------+--------+
SMALL COLLAR TO BE SEWED TO A HABIT-SHIRT.
PLATE 13. FIG. 14.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 4 |
| Width of square when doubled | 4½ |
| Space from A to B | 1 |
| Space from B to C | 3 |
| Space from C to D | 1 |
| Space from D to E | 3½ |
| Space from E to F | 1 |
| Space from F to G | 3 |
+------------------------------+--------+
PLATE 13. FIG. 15, 16.
Fig. 15, is the pattern of a very handsome long pointed cape, commonly
worn to rich silk cloaks and sometimes alone; when that is the case,
they are frequently made of velvet or fine cloth, and trimmed with fur
or swan’s down.
The cape is made as follows:—Sew together three breadths of the
material, eight nails and a half long and about eight nails wide (of
course a less number of breadths will be required, if the material be
much wider, as merinos, &c.), to each end of the three breadths thus
sewed in one length, add another breadth, which, as in Fig. 15 (see A),
is eight and a half nails deep at one end, and twelve nails deep at the
other, the material being cut in a straight line from B to C.
A GOOD SHAPE FOR A LADY’S RIDING COLLAR, TO BE SEWED TO A HABIT-SHIRT.
PLATE 13. FIG. 17.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 4 |
| Width of square when doubled | 4 |
| Space from A to B | 2 |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 1½ |
| Space from D to E | 2½ |
| Space from E to F | 1¾ |
| Space from F to G | 2¼ |
+------------------------------+-------+
These collars are made of a doubled piece of lawn, which being run
together and turned inside out, are neatly stitched near the edge like
gentlemen’s collars.
A CHEMISETTE DE VIERGE, MODESTY, OR TUCKER.
PLATE 13. FIG. 18.
This is but a quarter of the article, and when the paper pattern is
made from the drawing, it should be doubled, so that when cut, it forms
half the chemisette, which if it is again laid on a piece of muslin or
net doubled, the two sides may be cut at once.
Chemisettes are worn under evening dresses, and are trimmed with
blonde, lace, or muslin edging, which should just be seen above the
gown. The part marked S is the shoulder. The chemisette is put on over
the head and draws round the waist by a tape.
SCALE.
+-------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 4¾ |
| Width of square | 4¼ |
| Space from A to B | 3¾ |
| Space from B to C | 1 |
| Space from C to D | 1 |
| Space from D to E | 3¼ |
| Space from E to F | 1½ |
| Space from F to G | 3¾ |
+-------------------+-------+
A BABY’S COLLARETTE.
PLATE 13. FIG. 19.
This is particularly neat for a baby’s pelisse, and may be sewed on to
the shoulder-piece. (Fig. 5).
SCALE.
+------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 3¾ |
| Width of square when doubled | 4 |
| Space from A to B | 2¼ |
| Space from B to C | 1½ |
| Space from C to D | 1¼ |
| Space from D to E | 2 |
| Space from E to F | ¾ |
| Space from F to G | 2½ |
| Space from G to H | 1¼ |
| Space from H to I | 1½ |
+------------------------------+-------+
This collarette should be piped all round, and edged with work,
excepting the curve, which goes half round the neck. Two half
collarettes must be cut, one for the right, and one for the left side
of the neck.
A HABIT-SHIRT.
PLATE 13. FIG. 20, 23.
Fig. 23 represents half of the back of a habit-shirt. Fig. 20, one of
the two fronts which are sewed on to the back at the shoulder, the
parts marked in each figure, S, being the corresponding pieces.
SCALE TO FIG. 23.
+----------------------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of the square | 8½ |
| Width of the square when doubled | 4 |
| Space from A to B | 6½ |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 2¼ |
| Space from D to E | 1¼ |
| Space from E to F | 1 |
+----------------------------------+-------+
This back, which, of course is cut in the whole piece, has a tape
passed through a hem at the bottom, which tape also passes through the
hems at the bottom of the two fronts, and ties before.
SCALE TO FIG. 20.
+---------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of the square | 6¼ |
| Width of the square | 6 |
| Space from A to B | 5¼ |
| Space from B to C | 1 |
| Space from C to D | 4 |
| Space from D to E | 2 |
| Space from E to F | 1¼ |
| Space from F to G | 5 |
+---------------------------+--------+
This figure represents one of the fronts of the habit-shirt; the part
marked D is the front, S is the shoulder; where the two fronts meet
they may be fastened by small buttons, and sometimes work is let in, or
narrow tucks made, which have a neat effect. Below the shoulder, and
down the front, it is finished with a narrow hem. A collar may be sewed
to it at the neck, by a mantua-maker’s hem.
A MOURNING COLLAR.
PLATE 13. FIG. 21.
Made of clear muslin, white crape, widow’s lawn, net or tulle, with a
broad hem one nail deep all round.
SCALE.
+------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 5½ |
| Width of square | 6 |
| From A to B | 5½ |
| From B to C | 2½ |
| From C to D | 3½ |
| From D to E | 2½ |
| From E to F | 3 |
+------------------+--------+
The hems to these collars are generally laid on, by being run at the
edge, and then turned back and hemmed, this is a much neater plan than
any other. Sometimes two collars with deep hems are worn one above the
other.
For mourning collars of net with either a broad hem, frills with deep
hems, or gaufiered frills are used. If the mourning is very deep, the
muslin collar is covered with black crape.
A ROUND CAPE OR TIPPET.
PLATE 13. FIG. 22.
No scale can be made to this tippet, as the size is only determined
according to the purpose for which it is to be used. Form a perfect
circle, and slit from the outer edge of the circle A to the centre B,
after which cut out a piece for the neck. This is a very good shape for
school girls, it also makes a useful dressing or combing tippet.
A HABIT-SHIRT.
PLATE 13. FIG. 24.
This is a very simple neat shape for a habit-shirt. T is the front,
and D the middle of the back. It is all cut in one piece, and the part
marked B may be laid against the selvage; S is the shoulder.
SCALE.
+-------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of square | 6 |
| Width of square | 10 |
| Space from A to B | 4 |
| Space from B to C | 3 |
| Space from B to D | 2 |
| Space from D to E | 6 |
| Space from E to F | 4 |
+-------------------+-------+
Cut in a straight line from C to A, and square the corner off at A.
A PELERINE.
PLATE 13. FIG. 25.
The back is on the cross and the front is straight.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of oblong | 7 |
| Width of oblong when doubled | 13 |
| Space from A to B | 6½ |
| Space from B to C | ½ |
| Space from C to D | 6 |
| Space from D to E | 3 |
| Space from E to F | 1 |
| Space from E to G | 4 |
| Space from H to I | 4 |
| Space from I to J | 1¼ |
| Space from I to K | 3 |
| Space from K to L | ¾ |
+------------------------------+--------+
PLATE 13. FIG. 26.
This is a very simple collar, and much worn by persons of quiet
unassuming habits. It is composed of two oblong strips of muslin,
hemmed all round with rather a broad hem, and sewed together at the
ends half the way up. Each oblong is four nails long and about three
nails deep.
A REMARKABLY PRETTY PELERINE FOR A MORNING DRESS.
PLATE 13. FIG. 27.
SCALE.
+-------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 5 |
| Width of square | 11 |
| Space from A to B | 3½ |
| Space from B to C | 1½ |
| Space from C to D | 5 |
| Space from D to E | 2½ |
| Space from E to F | 3½ |
| Space from F to G | 2 |
| Space from F to H | 3 |
| Space from H to I | 5 |
+-------------------+--------+
PLATE 13. FIG. 28.
This is the pattern of a very handsome long pelerine. The part marked S
must be laid along the selvage. Of course this is in two parts, both of
which will nearly lie side by side on the opposite selvages of the same
breadth.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of the square | 21 |
| Width of the square | 8 |
| Space from A to B | 14 |
| Space from B to C | 3 |
| Space from C to D | 1 |
| Space from D to E | 4 |
| Space from E to F | 5½ |
| Space from F to G | 2½ |
| Space from G to H | 6 |
| Space from H to I | 4 |
| Space from I to J | 5½ |
| Space from J to K | 1 |
| Space from K to L | 1½ |
| Space from I to M | 11 |
| Space from M to N | 4 |
+----------------------+--------+
A HANDSOME SHAPE FOR A PELERINE WITH A SQUARE COLLAR.
PLATE 13. FIG. 29.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 7 |
| Width of square when doubled | 12 |
| Space from A to B | 6½ |
| Space from B to C | 4 |
| Space from C to D | 2½ |
| Space from C to E | 2 |
| Space from E to F | 3 |
| Space from F to G | 3 |
| Space from G to H | 4 |
| Space from H to I | 1 |
| Space from I to J | 3 |
| Space from I to K | 2 |
| Space from K to L | 4 |
| Space from L to M | 4½ |
| Space from M to N | 2 |
+------------------------------+--------+
The letters E, F, J, and D, point out the shape of the upper collar.
PLATE 13. FIG. 30.
This is a frill to go over each shoulder of a cape or pelerine, as a
finish, and is peculiarly adapted to Fig. 25, 27.
SCALE TO FIG. 30.
+----------------------+-------+
| | Nails.|
| Length of the square | 8 |
| Width of the square | 10 |
+----------------------+-------+
Draw a straight line across from A to B, which are situated one nail
within the corners of the square.
SCALE.
+----------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Space from the corner to C | 7 |
| Space from C to E | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 3½ |
| Space from F to the corner | 1 |
+----------------------------+--------+
Curve, according to the pattern, from the corner to E. The cross part
is then fulled on to the pelerine, leaving about two nails from the
front and back points.
A CAPE FOR A BABY’S PELISSE.
PLATE 13. FIG. 31.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 5 |
| Width of square when doubled | 5 |
| Space from A to B | 3 |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 1½ |
| Space from D to E | 1 |
| Space from E to F | 2½ |
| Space from F to G | 1½ |
| Space from G to H | 1 |
| Space from H to I | 2½ |
| Space from I to J | 3 |
+------------------------------+--------+
ANOTHER SHOULDER-PIECE, OR NEAT COLLAR.
PLATE 13. FIG. 32.
If used for the latter, it may be made with a hem all round, through
which a coloured or white satin ribbon may be drawn of about twopenny
width. A single or double frill of net should be sewed round it, with a
corresponding hem for ribbon. This frill, after the hem is made, should
be a full nail deep.
SCALE.
+------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 4 |
| Width of square when doubled | 4 |
| Space from A to B | 2 |
| Space from B to C | 2 |
| Space from C to D | 1½ |
| Space from D to E | 2½ |
| Space from E to F | 1¼ |
+------------------------------+--------+
A MODESTY, OR TUCKER.
PLATE 13. FIG. 33.
This little front, or modesty, is to put inside a low dress, and may
be made very prettily. The materials most in use for them are cambric,
lawn, muslin, net, tulle, satin, or crape. They are generally tucked,
or in folds, or frilled into strips of insertion-work, either the
length or the width-way, and always trimmed with a little work or
edging on the top. When made, they are about three nails deep, and five
nails wide at the top, and tapering to three nails at the waist. They
are almost always made the straight way, particularly when they are
intended to wash.
A SIMPLE COLLAR.
PLATE 13. FIG. 34.
This is a particularly simple pretty collar, and is frequently made of
net or muslin, trimmed with narrow work or muslin. It has a broad hem
all round, through which satin ribbon is passed. The collar is merely
a straight piece, eight nails deep and fourteen nails wide. Double it
in half length-wise, and also width-wise to find the centre, and then
cut in a straight line from A B, at the top, to the centre. The points,
A B, each fall over, as seen in the Plate, and give the appearance of
a second collar. The ends should be a little hollowed out, to make the
whole set better.
ANOTHER HANDSOME PELERINE.
PLATE 13. FIG. 35.
SCALE.
+-------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 8 |
| Width of square | 11 |
| Space from A to B | 8 |
| Space from B to C | 4 |
| Space from C to D | 1¼ |
| Space from C to E | 2 |
| Space from D to F | 5 |
| Space from F to G | 4 |
| Space from G to H | 2 |
| Space from H to I | 2½ |
| Space from H to J | 2 |
| Space from J to K | 7 |
| Space from K to L | 3 |
| Space from K to M | 2 |
+-------------------+--------+
The corner or tip to be rounded off, beginning at two nails from A, at
the bottom, to one nail above A, at the side.
A ROUND COLLAR.
PLATE 13. FIG. 36.
This is a small and simple shape for a round collar, with a smaller
one upon it. When the larger is cut, the lesser one may be cut by the
eye, only taking notice to shape it off more abruptly in front than the
other.
SCALE.
+-------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Length of square | 6½ |
| Width of square | 5½ |
| Space from A to B | 3½ |
| Space from B to C | 3 |
| Space from C to D | 1¾ |
| Space from D to E | 3¼ |
| Space from E to F | ¾ |
| Space from F to G | 1½ |
| Space from F to H | 2¼ |
| Space from H to I | 3½ |
+-------------------+--------+
A SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET.
PLATE 16. FIG. 37, 38.
This is an economical mode of making tippets for poor children, or
charity schools, of remnants of cloth, print, &c. Cut a circle in
paper, of the right size, and pin it on the carpet or table cloth,
whilst you arrange strips of your material on it, in regular lines,
as in the Fig. 37; two or three strips may cross each other at right
angles; between them should be other straight pieces, and then
triangular bits will fill up the circle. Black, orange, crimson, blue,
and brown cloth, look very well.
ANOTHER SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET.
PLATE 16. FIG. 39. (Near to FIG. 10, 16.)
This is made of the list of flannel, the selvage of cloth, or any
other warm material, and is sewed on to calico; cut a lining in the
shape required, and beginning at the bottom, place layer above layer,
or strip above strip, something in the way that the many capes of a
coachman’s great coat are done: the list or cloth is not put on quite
flat, but is a very little fulled. It is then lined with flannel or
cloth, and is a most comfortable and strong tippet.
PETTICOATS.
PLATE 14.
Petticoats are made of calico, twill, dimity, cambric, and jaconet
muslin, sometimes for mourning, or for wearing under thin dresses of
silk and satin: for the middling and lower classes, they are of calico,
strong dimity, calimanco, stuff, and bombazine: they are made in
various ways, which will be described in the following pages, and the
patterns given: the figures and sizes of persons differ so essentially
that scales will not be attempted.
Petticoats are in three distinct parts—the skirt, the body, and the
sleeves, the varieties of each will be treated of in their turn.
SKIRTS.
Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half-breadths in them,
according to the width of the material of which they are made: they are
sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad,
tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners,
woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the
dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it
to hang better. Skirts are generally made with the opening behind,
but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams
being left unsewed for about four nails from the top; sometimes they
are furnished with pockets on one or both sides; for a description of
which, see Pockets. Skirts may be set on to the body, either equally
full all round, plain under the arms, and full at the front and
back, or with all the fulness behind. Servants frequently wear their
petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist, without any body,
and with or without tape shoulder-straps, to keep them up. Under or
middle petticoats are also made in this manner.
BODIES OR WAISTS.
These are made either full or tight to the figure.
[Illustration: PLATE 14.
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3
Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11
Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17
Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23
Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29
Fig 30 Fig 31 Fig 32 Fig 33 Fig 34
Fig 35 Fig 36 Fig 37 Fig 38 Fig 39 Fig 40
Fig 41 Fig 42 Fig 43 Fig 44 Fig 45
Fig 46 Fig 47
Fig 48 Fig 49 Fig 50 Fig 51 Fig 52 Fig 53 Fig 54 Fig 55]
Tight or plain bodies consist of five parts: the front, two
side-pieces, and two backs (see Fig. 1). The front is always cut on the
cross, and reaches from below one arm to the other: the side-pieces are
also cut crosswise on one side, and straight on the other, the straight
side being joined to the front, and that which is cross being stitched
to the backs, which are straight behind. Fig. 1 represents a tight body
made up, for a small person. Observe that the various directions of
the lines drawn on the engravings, represents the selvage-way of the
material, as a better guide for the inexperienced. In making up, all
the parts should be back-stitched together: the band ought to be very
strong; it is often made of webbing or stout tape. Petticoat bodies may
be made with or without sleeves, according to the taste of the wearer.
Full bodies are made in a similar manner to tight ones, excepting that
two nails more are added in width to the front, so that when laid open
it is ten nails and a half at its greatest extent, instead of only
seven and a half, like the plain body, and half a nail is also given
to each back. The front is cut straight instead of cross, in the full
bodies. (See Plate 14, Fig. 2.)
SLEEVES.
For figures of sleeves, see Plate 12 and the descriptions annexed.
NURSING PETTICOATS.
PLATE 14.
For the convenience of those mothers who nurse their infants, the
petticoat body in front may be opened in various ways.
PLATE 14. FIG. 3.
The most general mode is simply to have the front of the body in two
pieces, so as to open in the middle before, hemming it on each side,
and letting the parts tie or button together at the top: it is as well
to set the two sides of the front into the band, so that they may
overlap each other, in order to guard against cold. This petticoat
fastens behind in the usual manner.
PLATE 14. FIG. 4.
Another approved method is that of having the petticoat open on each
side in front, so as to be close at the back. This petticoat body
is made in four parts: one back, two side pieces, one front. The
back piece is cut the straight way, so as to let A B, Fig. 4, lie
selvage-wise.
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Depth from A to B | 4 |
| Width from G to D | 6 |
| Width from F to E | 8½ |
| Slope it down to H H | 1½ |
| Side-piece from below the arm to the waist | 2¼ |
| From H to J | 4 |
| From J to K cut straight-wise | 3 |
| Length of shoulder-straps | 2 |
| Breadth of shoulder-straps | 1 |
+--------------------------------------------+--------+
The shoulder-straps connect the top of the side-piece with the top of
the back. The front of the body is in one piece, being eight nails
wide at the top, sloped down to five nails and a half at the bottom;
it is four nails deep in the middle, but being hollowed out, is half
a nail deeper at the sides. This front has a broad hem all round it,
and is set into a band, which is attached to the front breadth of the
skirt, the seam on each side of this breadth being open for the space
of four nails. Tapes are attached to the band of the back breadth, and
tie in front; buttons are set on, to within a nail of the end of the
band below the side pieces, to which the band of the front buttons on
each side, and by this means overlaps the opening: button-holes are
also made at the two corners of the front (see X Z), which correspond
with the buttons on the shoulder-strap, Z. The left hand side of Fig.
4 represents the petticoat with the body drawn forward, as if for the
purpose of tying it, while the opposite side shows it as if thrown
back, ready to put the arm into the sleeve. The front is unfastened and
has fallen down.
GOWNS.
PLATE 14.
Gowns being a part of dress much influenced by the fashion or custom
of the day, will not be fully entered on in this work, as it would
be impossible to give the variety of form and size which is seen in
them, and equally impossible, were a selection attempted, to please
all tastes, or suit all figures: a few simple patterns for those kinds
which are independent of fashion, and especially for those worn by
servants, and persons engaged in laborious employments, with a very few
other plain ones, will alone come within the limits of the work.
Those commonly worn by servants, and the working classes, are of print,
linen, stuff, and for best, light ginghams, merino, or bombazine;
ladies wear muslin, gingham, silk, merino, and for dress, either
lighter or richer materials, as satins, velvets, gauzes, &c.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
The bodies of working gowns should be lined with strong linen, which is
preferable to calico, as it does not shrink in the washing; they should
be of dark and good washing colours, deep blue and lilac are the best
for wear.
It is a good plan to line silk and merino, or stuff gown bodies, with
strong linen or brown Holland, as it keeps them in shape, by preventing
them from stretching.
In buying striped dresses, be careful that the stripes run
selvage-wise, otherwise they are very unbecoming. In making up the
bodies, the stripes should lie in the same direction, and not crosswise
from shoulder to shoulder.
Checks or plaids are rarely becoming when they are large: for children
they should be particularly small and narrow, the colours should not be
too bright or gay, but sufficiently contrasted and decided, to give a
clear clean effect; plaids of which the colours are pale and indistinct
never look very well; and after wearing a short time appear faded and
shabby.
Checks are becoming to tall people, and stripes to short ones, as the
former rather diminish, while the latter give an appearance of greater
length to the figure than is natural to it, in the same way that a
striped paper makes a room look higher, than one which is checked, or
of which the pattern goes round instead of from top to bottom.
Broad hems and deep flounces also tend to lessen the height, it may
therefore be taken as a general rule that tall persons should endeavour
to add to their width, by making all the accompaniments to their dress
as full and wide, as is consistent with the reigning taste, while those
who are short, should let all theirs be as moderate as possible.
The same observations will also apply to stout and thin persons; for
the former, all trimmings of the bodies in front, such as rouleaux,
folds, and straps, should, generally speaking, be carried from the
shoulder to the waist, in preference to being laid on crosswise; while
with those who are of a slighter make, it is merely a matter of fancy,
only remarking that every advantage of fulness should be given them.
If the trimming of a dress does not exactly match it, care should be
taken to select it darker than the dress itself. Waistbands, when
shaded, or of two colours, should be always worn with the darkest shade
or colour at the bottom of the waist.
The complexion should determine the choice of colours. Persons of a
sallow or muddy complexion should carefully avoid bright and glaring,
or on the other hand, undecided colours; such as yellow, cherry colour,
light green, buff, or drab; clear tints are more suitable to them, as
white, light blue, violet, or black.
Those with pale but clear complexions, may wear all the shades of rose
colour, primrose, apricot, buff, light green, lilac, brown, and violet.
Fair persons with a colour, will find few shades decidedly unbecoming;
perhaps it will be as well for them not to wear buff.
Dark olive or brown complexions should avoid either very dark or very
light colours, but they should be careful to select clear tints: pink,
geranium, and violet are the most decidedly suitable to them.
On all occasions let the old saying be kept in mind,
“Gaudy colours strike the eye,
And magnify deformity.”
These remarks may seem superfluous to some, but as attention to the
minutiæ of dress adds much to a lady-like and refined appearance,
and as an endeavour to please by an agreeable exterior, does not
necessarily involve a disposition to vanity and frivolity, it is hoped
that they will not be hastily condemned.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CUTTING OUT DRESSES.
It would be useless to form scales for the different kinds of dresses,
as shapes vary so much, therefore none will be introduced, excepting
for children and young persons; as, however, this article of dress
forms one of the most important parts of a person’s wardrobe, all
general observations for cutting out, that can be reduced to rule, will
be given as clearly as the subject will admit of, at the same time, it
is strongly recommended to all those who can afford it, to have their
best dresses invariably made by a mantua-maker, as those which are cut
out at home seldom fit so comfortably, or look so well, as when made
by persons in constant practice. To those who have large families or
limited means, it certainly is a great saving of expense having them
made at home, and to such, the following rules may be useful. It would
be very advisable, _as a practice_, for persons little acquainted with
cutting out, to purchase cheap print for poor children’s dress and by
fitting them on, much experience and nicety might be acquired at little
waste or expense.
In making a dress for any body, the following measurements should be
taken with a piece of common tape.
From the waist to the bottom of the skirt.
From the nape of the neck to the waist behind.
Round the waist.
Round the wrist.
From the shoulder to the wrist, with the arm bent.
In sending to London or elsewhere for a dress or riding habit, of which
the exact measure is required, observe the following directions for
transmitting measure in inches:—
1. Height of the person, observing if they stand upright.
2. The length of the arm from the centre of the back to the elbow,
and thence to the knuckles.
3. The circumference of the body, over the full part of the chest.
4. The circumference of the smallest part of the waist.
5. Length of the nape of the neck to the waist, and thence to the
ground.
6. From the front of the armpit to the centre of the bosom, thence
to the chest.
7. From the nape of the neck, over the shoulder, to the centre of
the bosom, and thence to the waist immediately under it.
PLATE 14.
The bodies of dresses contain various parts, called the fronts, the
backs, the side-pieces, the shoulder-straps, the shoulder-pieces,
collars, &c., &c. These parts are variously employed and differently
cut out, according to the style of the dress, sometimes being on the
cross, and sometimes on the straight way.
Observe that the lines in the engravings denote, by their direction,
which way the selvage side of the material runs. For the purpose of
making this quite clear, let it be supposed that these lines represent
stripes which run along or down the selvage.
Linings should always be cut to lie the same direction as the material
of the gown.
In cutting out a dress, it is usual to fit the lining upon the figure,
and cut out the gown from it, though, with an inexperienced person, it
would be advisable to fit on the gown also, if the dress is to be full,
or in folds.
Gowns are high, low, three-quartered, plain, or full, open before or
behind, all of which sorts will be treated of in their proper order.
SIDE-PIECES.
PLATE 14. FIG. 12, 13.
Most dresses have side-pieces or bits under the arm, to join the backs
to the fronts. These side-pieces are cut variously. For stout persons,
the selvage-way or stripe should run from the extreme point at the
bottom of the back of the side-piece, A, towards the middle of the top,
B, of Fig. 12. For slight figures, the selvage-way or stripe should run
along, or nearly along the front of the side-piece, thus A B, in Fig.
13.
The size of a side-piece depends much upon the figure and fashion. It
should never, however, be brought much forwarder than under the middle
of the arm-hole. It varies very much at the back, sometimes being
brought but just behind the arm-hole, at others to within a nail of the
middle of the back. The side-piece is sometimes cut straight at the
back, and at others in a kind of half-arch; the latter is required for
stout persons.
BACK SHOULDER-PIECES.
PLATE 14. FIG. 5.
These are not necessary to the set of the gown, and are seldom
introduced, unless it is the reigning fashion, or for the better
cutting up of the material. When these are used, of course
shoulder-straps are unnecessary, as they connect the backs with the
fronts. A represents a back shoulder-piece.
SHOULDER-STRAPS.
PLATE 14. FIG. 6, 7.
These are mere straps to connect the fronts and backs, and lie over
the shoulder. The straps are always double and are generally sloped
at each end, so as to be wider next the sleeve than at the shoulder or
neck (see Fig. 7).
SKIRTS.
These vary very much as to the number of breadths, according to fashion
and material. Thin clinging materials, as muslin, require more breadths
than thick or standing out articles of dress, as silk-gauze, velvet,
&c.; six, seven, or eight breadths are worn now for full dresses, but
formerly four breadths were deemed sufficient. They are usually lined
with thin glazed muslin, unless the dress is very heavy as stuff,
merino, &c., it is economical to line the skirt, as it keeps the dress
cleaner and makes it look better if turned.
A PLAIN HIGH BODY.
PLATE 14. FIG. 8.
For stout persons, indeed for the generality of figures, it is
preferable to have the fronts of the body in two pieces, with a piping
up the middle. In cutting out a high plain body, lay the material upon
the person as follows:—
Let the selvage-way or stripe of the cloth lie in the direction from
the extreme point of the shoulder, A (see Fig. 8), to the middle of
the waist, B. In doing this, pin it at a sufficient distance from the
selvage of the material to allow of plenty to cover the front. Thus,
pin the material on at A B, which is some distance from the selvage, C
D. Stroke the material up to the neck in front and hollow out at the
neck, putting pins at C E. The front is thus thrown quite on the cross,
up the middle. Do the same on the opposite side. Hollow out towards the
arm, and cut off where it meets the side-piece. The back pieces, Fig.
9, always have the selvage up the middle, and are properly fitted to
the figure till they meet the side-pieces.
In making up, a piping is laid along each seam, and the edges of the
lining, and the dress should be well overcast. The sleeves have piping
also round them. The backs should have broad hems, and, together with
the waist, be lined with a strong tape or calico.
A FULL FRENCH HIGH BODY.
PLATE 14. FIG. 10, 11, 14.
This body is also in two parts in front. The material is pinned for
the selvage-way, or stripe to run from the side of the neck or collar
bone, A, to the middle of the waist, B (in Fig. 10), so as to throw the
part up the front but slightly on the cross. Put strong pins in at A
B C, to keep the material firm, and then commence laying the material
in plaits (see Fig. 11), slanting from the shoulder towards the waist,
folding them much deeper at the waist than at the top; five, six, or
seven of these plaits are sufficient. In laying them along they should
be arranged so that when the last plait is formed, and the plain part
of the body pinned under the arm, the selvage-way or stripe should lie
almost parallel with, or along with, the waist (see L M, in Fig. 11).
The backs, Fig. 14, are always selvage-way up the middle; the plaits,
about three in number, should lie from the shoulder to the middle of
the waist in a fan-like direction. They will almost form themselves
properly at the top on the shoulder, if first properly pinned on the
waist, and the material held up, and slightly pulled or shaken above
the shoulder, with one hand, while the other arranges them. They will
naturally fall in deeper folds below than above.
A WRAP HIGH DRESS.
PLATE 14. FIG. 15.
This has two fronts, to be cut out as follows:—
Lay the merino, or other material, selvage or stripe-wise from the top
of the shoulder, A, to a little beyond the middle of the waist, so as
to throw the body a little on the cross up the middle.
The plaits must be formed, while on the person, one after another,
slanting from the shoulder, across the middle, to the opposite side of
the waist. These plaits should be so folded, as to make the plain part,
under the arm, fall selvage-wise along the band.
The back is made to correspond, the selvage is straight up the back,
and the material being held tightly above the shoulder at the top,
with one hand, the three or four plaits are the more easily arranged
by the other, and should be folded over more deeply at the bottom than
upon the shoulder. These plaits should exactly meet the others on the
shoulder.
The backs and fronts join under the arm without side-pieces. In making
up, the plaits should be secured on the shoulder, with a pipe or strap,
and again secured about half a nail on each side of the shoulder. The
fronts cross, or wrap over, and are well secured to the waistband.
A HIGH FULL GOWN, TO OPEN IN FRONT.
PLATE 14. FIG. 16, 17.
These are particularly suitable for house-maids, dairy or
kitchen-maids, chair and washerwomen; they should be made of the
strongest print, at 8_d._ or 1_s._ per yard. It is bad economy to buy
a cheap poor material for a working dress, under the idea that it will
do very well for common purposes, when it is of importance that they
should stand a good deal of wear and tear.
For a young person, the skirt is in three breadths of extra-width
print, of about eighteen nails; the seams must be sewed up, making one
come in the front, which must overlap half a nail down the whole length
of the skirt, leaving the hem or seam open for about four nails below
the waist. The body is six pieces, having one back, two fronts, two
side-pieces, and one collar.
The two fronts are selvage-wise up the middle, and are cut as
follows:—Pin the material selvage-wise at A, and at the bottom, lay it
in plaits or fullings along the shoulder, to lie towards the waist, and
smooth the plain part to fit the shape, till it meets the side-piece,
cut it off, and hollow it under the arm. The back-piece, Fig. 17, is
in one piece with the selvage, to lie up the middle; therefore, pin it
firmly at the middle of the top, A, and at the waist just below, B.
Lay the material on each side in fullings or plaits, pinning them down
here and there, and, after arranging them at the top, along the back
and shoulders, smooth down the plain part, hollow out at the arm-holes,
and cut along the shoulders. Cut the side-piece next, and then make
a neat simple collar; one like Fig. 7, in Plate 13, would be very
suitable. In making up, after cutting out your tight lining, lay each
part of the gown upon each piece of the lining, and begin to stitch
strongly together all the pieces, laying a piping up every seam, and
over-casting the rough edges inside, to make them wear well and look
neat. The sleeves are short (see Fig. 24, in Plate 12). The collar and
arm-holes are also piped.
Make a broad hem up each side of the front, and put the body into the
band; let the fulness be pretty even along the piping on the shoulder,
but bring it rather towards the middle of the waistband, in front.
The fulness behind is regular along the shoulders and collar, but
drawn towards the centre of the back, at the band. Sew the body on the
skirt, put strings or bands, of the same material, of about one nail
wide, to tie the dress at the throat. The waistband is one nail deep
and about eleven nails long, and can either button or fasten with a
strong hook and eye in front.
A HIGH BODY, TO OPEN IN FRONT.
PLATE 14. FIG. 18.
This shape is often worn by elderly ladies, sometimes by servants, and
is convenient, as it enables the wearer to dress herself without the
assistance of a maid. The gown is open down the two seams at the sides
for about four or five nails, so that the front ties round the waist
like an apron, being of course well fulled in front into a band, to
which strings are attached. The slits at the sides form pocket holes.
The body is sewed on to the skirt behind and opens in front. It has
one back, which, if full, is cut with the selvage-way or stripe to lie
straight down from the neck to the waist, but if plain, it should be
on the cross. The fronts are generally on the cross with the material
cut to lie with the stripe or selvage-way, from the extreme point of
the shoulder to the middle of the waist. The fronts are continued so as
to pin down at the waist, one across the other, over which the front
breadth or apron ties.
PLAIN LOW BODY.
Pin the material with the selvage-way or stripe, to lie from the
extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist, so as to
throw the body quite on the cross up the middle, which is joined with a
piping. The backs are always selvage-wise up the middle. Join the backs
and fronts with a piping on the shoulder, also at the seams, for the
side-pieces. Stitch up the plaits that are made at the bosoms.
ANOTHER FRENCH LOW PLAIN FRONT.
PLATE 14. FIG. 19.
This is in five pieces, two backs, one front, and two side-pieces.
The front is all in one piece, and in cutting it out, the material is
pinned with the selvage-way or stripe up the middle. Pin it firmly
at A and B, at the top and bottom of the middle of the body. Lay the
material along to the shoulders, and pin it down again at C. Slope
with the scissors from the point of the shoulder to a peak down at
the front. The backs are likewise cut selvage-wise up the middle, and
peaked from the back to the shoulders: the side-pieces are joined to
the front and back by a piping. Make the bosom plaits and stitch them
up.
VARIOUS MODES OF TRIMMING LOW BODIES WHEN TIGHT TO THE FIGURE.
PLATE 14.
Tight or plain bodies require some ornament or finish to set them
off, a few neat methods of putting on folds, &c., will therefore be
explained.
Plate 14, Fig. 20, represents a plain body with the folds sewed on.
These folds are in two parts one for each side of the body in front.
They are cut crosswise and are only suitable to those gowns which are
not of a washing material, they should be from nine to ten nails wide,
and as long as will reach from the shoulder to the middle of the waist.
In making them up stitch them firmly down on the shoulder in regular
plaits, and again about a nail in front of the shoulder. Arrange them
as regularly at the waist, sewing them firmly into the middle of the
band, exactly to meet or correspond with the folds of the other side.
Plate 14, Fig. 21, represents a plain body with loose folds upon it,
the body is made exactly like that of a petticoat, the front may or may
not be in two parts, according to pleasure, and convenience; if there
is a joining, a piping should be laid between the two parts. If the
dress is of a washing material, the folds should be the straight way,
and the cross-way if it is not.
The straight folds are merely a piece of muslin or print, six and a
half or seven nails long and about seven nails wide, gathered at the
top, and neatly biassed two or three times at intervals of half a nail;
the upper gathering is then sewed very strongly on the shoulder, where
the front joins the shoulder-strap; the bottom is simply hemmed. When
worn, this piece is folded in large or small plaits, according to the
taste of the wearer, and neatly pinned across under the waist ribbon.
This method of making muslin, gingham, or print dresses, is very
convenient for the washerwoman.
The loose cross-way folds are very similar. The piece of silk, or other
material, must be six nails and a half or seven nails long, and nine
nails wide. It is secured, both at the top and bottom, in the proper
folds, as in this instance no advantage can accrue from the piece being
left unconfined at the bottom, as in the washing gowns. The top is
sewed on the shoulder, and, when worn, the folds are pinned under the
waist ribbon, as in the kind described above.
Other modes of ornamenting plain bodies are so various, it would be
endless to have plates to illustrate each—suffice it to say that bands
or rouleaux of satin, silk, gauze, &c., are often laid in various
forms. For white gowns, straps, with a neat piping at one or both
sides, are generally made; also puffings, frillings, and flouncings.
For silks, merinos, &c., satin, silk, or velvet pipings, to straps
of the same material as the gown, look well. Sometimes gaufiered or
quilled ribbon or lace is employed. For children, braid, bobbin, or
coarse netting silk is laid or worked on, in every variety of pattern.
A FRENCH FULL LOW BODY.
PLATE 14. FIG. 22, 23.
This dress is composed of a kind of plain shoulder-piece round the top,
to which the body is fulled all round. This piece is cut as follows:—
Lay the material with the selvage-way or stripe down the middle of the
top, in front (see A, Fig. 22), to the extreme point of the shoulder,
B, and pin it firmly down. Begin to cut at E, which is at a little
distance within B, and slope it along to the middle, A, making it
a little on the cross. Cut again, according to taste, either in a
peak or slope, from B to D. The backs, which are made to accord with
the fronts, are quite straight at the bottom, but a little sloped
or hollowed at the top. The fulling for the body is cut variously,
according to the texture of the dress. Cotton, muslin, or other thin
dresses should have the fulness set in with the selvage-way up the
middle; but silk, merino, and other thick dresses are made otherwise.
This body is sometimes set in plaits, and is exceedingly pretty. In
this case, the width-way of the material lies up the middle.
A GRECIAN LOW BODY.
PLATE 14. FIG. 24, 25.
This is a remarkably pretty shape, but requires great nicety in
arranging it, to make it fit well.
Turn up the corner of your material half-handkerchief way until
sufficiently wide, A to B, to reach amply from the middle of the top
of the body in front, across the bosom, to the shoulder. The folded
part, A C, must next be laid down the middle of the front. Pin A to
the top of the middle, and B to the shoulder, and begin to make four
or five plaits to lie in the same direction, making them swell more in
the middle than at the ends. In arranging these plaits fold in plenty
of the material, or they will not set well. Smooth the remainder to
the figure, and hollow out under the arm. As the material is double,
both sides are thus cut at once. The plaits should be secured twice or
three times on the shoulder. The backs, as usual, selvage-wise down
the middle, and a few plaits may or may not be added along the top.
A SIMPLE FULL BODY.
Let the width-way of the material lie up the middle in front, and plait
it in straight regular folds from top to bottom, letting the last fold
be rather deeper, in order to throw the plain part of the body more on
the cross. These plaits or fullings should slant a little towards the
middle in a fan-like shape.
FULL LOW BODY.
PLATE 14. FIG. 26, 27, 28, 29.
This is only worn by very young persons and children. It is made nearly
like a full petticoat body. The front is in one piece, and may be
either the straight or the cross-way, according to pleasure. That in
the Plate is a good average size for a girl of ten years old.
The pattern should be cut first in paper. Fig. 27 is the front, D being
the doubled part. The measurements need not be repeated, as they are
quite accurately given in the Plate. The reason why the front is so
much sloped at the lower part, is to make it set better than it would
do if left straight; and it is considered preferable to slope the
bottom rather than the top of the body: of course it is gathered and
sewed to the band in the usual manner. Fig. 28 is one back, and Fig. 29
a side-piece. In making up, if the top of the body is set into a narrow
band, instead of having a string-case, the fulness should be pretty
equal all round, only making it a little plainer towards the shoulders,
but at the bottom of the waist the gathers should be drawn towards the
centre, both in front and at the back, which gives a becoming fan-like
appearance to it.
VELVET DRESSES.
PLATE 14. FIG. 30.
Velvet dresses have frequently a breadth of satin put in behind, as
velvet injures by being sat upon. The great object is to put in the
satin so that it shall not be seen when the person who wears it is
standing or walking. There are various methods of doing this. The
following is one of the best.
The piece of satin is sewed in at the back, in addition to the full
number of breadths of velvet. After joining the breadths together,
and lining the whole skirt, the two back breadths of velvet are sewed
together at the bottom for the depth of about half a yard, the satin
being plaited up within them, and not seen at all.
At the top the opening or pocket-hole behind is made in the satin, but
not in the velvet, as the two back breadths of velvet are left open
all the way up from the half-yard at the bottom, previously mentioned,
having the satin between them. The gathers of velvet are sewed in
the usual manner into the band, but the satin is sewed back on each
side within it, so that when the gown is unfastened the pocket-hole
gapes open, and the dress has the appearance given in Fig. 30. S, in
the Plate, means the satin, and the V, velvet breadths of the skirt.
Instead of putting in a satin breadth, some persons have the back
breadth of velvet wadded, which is said to answer well.
NURSING GOWNS.
These must vary according to the pattern of the gown. In a body with
folds laid on, the openings must be made in the bosom-gore on each
side, which button up, having a fold or flap of silk behind, to prevent
any danger of taking cold.
Sometimes a tight body may be made cut in a point from the shoulders to
one nail above the waist: over this, full loose folds, confined at the
shoulder, may be pinned over at the waist.
A third may be made like a pelisse body, open in the middle of the
front.
CHILDREN’S FROCKS AND TUNICS.
PLATE 14.
These should be made of strong and washing materials, as children
should be allowed to have full exercise, and not be restrained from
running and rolling about, both in doors and out: for this purpose
(unless from its extreme delicacy a child requires much additional
warmth) cloth, merino, and stuffs are not good or suitable for them;
neither are silk, velvet, or gauze, as they soon become dirty and look
tumbled, and the child cannot play with ease or comfort.
Jeans, twills, prints, Holland, and nankeen are most proper for the
morning dress, and white or coloured muslin, or fine twill, and
sometimes washing silks, for an evening.
For children’s simple frocks, refer to the Scales belonging to the
description of baby’s frocks.
CHILDREN’S SIMPLE PLAIN FROCKS.
PLATE 14. FIG. 31, 32, 33, 34.
This is the most simple body that can be made, and equally suited to
boys and girls.
The body is in three parts—namely, two backs and one front.
The front is cut along the width of the material, and joins the backs
on the top of the shoulders and below the arms, so as to require
neither side-pieces nor shoulder-straps. This front lies quite plain to
the figure, but the backs are made to have two plaits and a broad hem.
This body can be ornamented in various ways, either with braid sewed
on, or by capes. A very pretty cape is made by cutting a diamond (see
Fig. 33), and hollowing it out on the inside exactly to correspond with
the neck of the frock.
Fig. 31 represents half the body in front.
Fig. 32 represents half the body behind, when cut out.
Fig. 33 represents the diamond for the cape.
Fig. 34 represents the front, when made up.
The sleeves may be plain, like petticoat sleeves, having three frills
laid upon them, and braided at the edge. The skirt to a frock of this
size would be about nine nails, including the deep hem of two nails,
and about two and a half-breadths wide, each breadth being thirteen
nails wide. If there are pockets in front, the slits may be braided
round, and are two nails and a half deep. In making up, the body
and cape are sewed firmly together to a band at the top, which is
ornamented by two lines of braid. The skirt is evenly gathered behind,
the gathers lying close together. The remainder is laid in regular
plaits all round.
The band round the neck is ten nails long, cut crosswise, and the
waistband ten nails long, cut selvage-wise.
A CHILD’S FULL FROCK.
PLATE 14. FIG. 35, 36.
This body is also in three parts, the front and two backs. They are
very much fulled, and are both cut the width-way of the material, so
that the selvage-way goes up the middle, both before and behind.
For a child of three, four, or five years old, cut the body as follows:—
Cut for each back a piece of six nails along the width-way, and two
nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material. Cut
for the front a piece of thirteen nails along the width-way, and two
nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material. Fold the
front in two, very evenly, and lay the two backs upon the two ends of
the double front, and pin the four thicknesses together, so as to lie
quite firmly and evenly one upon the other, as in Fig. 35. Then with
the scissors, after sloping one nail for below the arm, A B, begin to
cut, B D, for the arm-hole, cutting into the cloth about half a nail
at C. Slope from D, which is half a nail from the top, to E, for the
shoulder, letting the part, D E, be three-quarters of a nail. Hollow
down from E to F one nail, letting F to G be quite straight, for the
bosoms and backs; from G to the bottom is one nail and three-quarters
deep.
In making up, after sewing the backs to the front and putting in the
sleeves, begin to full in the body to the band round the neck, leaving
it plain both before and behind, for about one nail and a quarter from
the sleeve.
This band is about eleven nails long, and should be cut on the cross;
being doubled in quarters, mark the points for the middle behind and
before, and for the two shoulders.
The waistband is also eleven nails selvage-way, and one nail and a
quarter wide. The body is gathered at the waist, exactly to correspond
with the top.
The skirt of two and a half-breadths, of thirteen nails width, is
gathered (not plaited) all round quite evenly. The sleeves are the
usual shape (see Plate 12, Fig. 27 or 32). A braid may be laid along
the top and band, round the sleeves and the broad hem, and the whole is
completed.
CHILD’S SIMPLE THREE-QUARTERS DRESS.
PLATE 14. FIG. 37.
The body has one front and two backs.
For the front, cut a piece of thirteen nails width-way, and two nails
and three-quarters selvage-way of the material; and the back pieces
each six nails width-way, and two nails and three-quarters selvage-way
of the material.
In cutting the arm-holes, leave one nail and three-quarters under the
arm, and cut into the cloth three-quarters of a nail. Leave nearly
three-quarters of a nail for the shoulders. In making up the frock,
prepare a piping of ten nails and a half long, and a waistband of
eleven nails and a half. Divide the piping into four parts, and then
begin laying the plaits to go from the shoulders rather towards the
middle of the waist, as in Fig. 10, sewing them firmly with piping at
the top. The back is similar to the front. The skirt is laid in regular
plaits all round. The sleeves are fulled or plaited evenly at the
shoulder, and confined by a strap a little below it. A frill may be put
round the sleeve.
A CHILD’S PLAIN DRESS.
PLATE 14. FIG. 38, 39, 40.
This frock has two backs, two side front-pieces, and one centre
front-piece.
The backs, Fig. 38, are cut with the selvage-way up the middle; they
are first fitted on the figure to set plainly, afterwards, allowing two
extra nails in width for the fulness, they are hollowed out for the
arm-hole, leaving one nail and a half under the arm. The side fronts,
Fig. 39, are cut a little on the cross, so that the selvage-way or
stripe leans in the same direction with the strap or piping which joins
the centre-piece. The centre-piece, Fig. 40, is cut quite on the cross,
for which purpose, turn up a piece of material half-handkerchief way,
and lay it in fourteen or fifteen regular plaits. This centre-piece,
when plaited up, should form a triangular piece of two nails deep,
three nails and a half at its greatest width, and half a nail at its
narrowest. Put a band from each side of the triangle to the back, to
confine the gathers. The front requires no band.
A CHILD’S FULL FROCK.
PLATE 14. FIG. 41.
This frock has body and skirt all cut in one piece.
For a child’s frock, of two, four, or five years old, cut two breadths
and a half of the proper length, from the shoulder to the bottom of the
skirt. Double it in four, like a pinafore, slope for the shoulder, and
hollow it out for the arm-holes. Cut a band crosswise of the proper
length, from ten to twelve nails, and pipe it on each side; after
which, confine the top into it in regular gathers. After marking a
proper depth for the body, gather the skirt again in two rows, upon
which lay a waistband piped on each side. To this dress may be worn
long sleeves, which are piped round the arm-hole, and plaited evenly
with a strap a little below, to confine the plaits. This dress is very
pretty, when made in spotted or figured muslins or prints. The piping
should be matched with the darkest shade on the dress. Sometimes three
buttons, covered with the same as the piping, are worn on the shoulders.
CHILD’S MORNING DRESS.
PLATE 14. FIG. 42.
This looks very neat when made of Holland, and is a useful dress to
put on, for keeping the under clothes clean; it also looks well in any
other material. The skirt and body, all in one, is doubled in four, and
the arm-holes cut from the top, without sloping any for the shoulders.
A shoulder-piece is made of the proper size (see Plate 13), to which
the skirt is fulled, with a piping, in regular plaits. Set on the
sleeves also to the shoulder-piece, and full the skirt again in two
rows, on which lay the waistband, also piped. A collar or neck-band is
put on, to finish it at the neck. The sleeves are strongly biassed,
or confined by a strap, laid on regular plaits, a little below the
shoulder.
DRESS FOR A BOY OF FOUR YEARS OLD.
PLATE 14. FIG. 43.
This little frock may be worn with or without trowsers.
The width must be regulated of course by that of the material; if
nankeen is preferred, it being only six nails wide, six breadths must
be put in. Divide it into four, cut the arm-holes and a slit behind,
put in the sleeves, and then set it in double plaits all round, behind,
and before, to a band the proper width to fit the child’s neck. On
the edge of each plait, lay a piece of silk braid, which reaches to
the waist and then turns and is brought up at the other side (see the
Plate). A runner or string-case is made inside, at the bottom of the
waist, for strings to draw, and a deep hem at the bottom of the frock.
A BOY’S JEAN TUNIC.
PLATE 14. FIG. 46, 47.
This is worn by boys of five and six years old, with trowsers of white
or some material to match the dress, which is of coloured jean or
gingham cloth.
Cut a shoulder-piece similar to Fig. 5, Plate 13.
The skirt is in three breadths, and when they are sewed together, it is
doubled like a pinafore, to cut out the arm-holes. It is then gathered
before and behind to the shoulder-piece, which has previously been
piped all round. The sleeves are also fulled into the shoulder-piece,
leaving sufficient plain of them to sew into the arm-hole of the skirt,
which is about one nail and a half deep. A robing is put on in the
front. The dress is braided in front, and round the shoulder-piece and
collar. The bottom of the skirt is turned up two nails and a half, and
braided above the hem. The dress is open behind. A belt is cut out, as
in Fig. 47, which is braided round each square, and fastens behind with
hooks and eyes, or buttons. The sleeve is finished with braiding.
SURTOUT FOR A BOY OF FIVE OR SIX YEARS OLD.
PLATE 14. FIG. 44, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52.
This is made of cloth, lined with silk or net, according to pleasure,
and trimmed with flat black braid.
The body is separate from the skirt. The former is in five parts; viz.
the back, two side-pieces, and two fronts.
For the back, Fig. 50, let your paper be four nails long, and five
nails and a half wide. Fold it in half its width, letting D be the
doubled part or middle of the back. Mark as follows:—
SCALE.
+-------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B | 2¼ |
| From B to C | ¾ |
| From C to E | 1 |
| From E to F | 1¼ |
| From F to G | 1½ |
| From A to H | 1½ |
+-------------+--------+
Cut from H to B, and from C to F.
For the front, Fig. 51, cut your paper three nails and three-quarters
wide and five nails and a quarter long.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the bottom to J | 1¾ |
| From K to the side | 1 |
| From K to the top | ½ |
| From L to M | 2¾ |
| From M to N | 1¼ |
| From N to O | 2¼ |
| From P to the side | ¼ |
+----------------------+--------+
Slope from J to K for the arm-hole. Cut from K to M for the shoulder.
From M to O for the neck. Slope from O to P.
For the side-piece, Fig. 52, cut your paper one nail and a half wide
and three nails long.
SCALE.
+--------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From Q to R | 1¼ |
| From the side to S | ¾ |
| From the top to S | ⅛ |
| From T to U | ¼ |
+--------------------+--------+
Cut from V to R, and again from R to S. Curve from S to T. The small
collar, or band, is attached to O M, Fig. 51, and F G, Fig. 50. Of
course the other side of the body is made up in a similar manner.
The skirt must be next put together, and the back-piece, Fig. 48, being
opened, the two fronts, Fig. 49, being also opened out, C F, Fig. 48,
is sewed to G H, Fig. 49, it is then set on to the body in regular
plaits, and left open in the front.
The body should be lined entirely with tailors’ twilled silk, and part
of the front breadths with the same, each with half a breadth of silk.
The parts should all be strongly and neatly back-stitched together, and
braid laid on all the seams of the body. The hooks and eyes are put on
between the lining and the cloth. The skirt is hemmed and braided in
front.
The dress is worn with a broad black band. Trowsers made to button at
the side, and an under waistcoat, are worn with this surtout.
CHILD’S FIRST PELISSE
PLATE 17. FIG. 45, 53, 54, 55.
These are made of gingham, jean, cloth, merino, or silk. The former are
the best for the summer, and cloth for the winter.
For the skirt, take three breadths of about eleven nails wide and
nine nails long. Sew up the seams, make a deep hem of one nail and
a half, on which is sewed a broad flat braid. The opening behind or
pocket-hole, should be made in one of the seams.
The body is in three parts, besides the collar; viz. one front and two
back pieces. For the front-piece, Fig. 53, cut your paper seven nails
wide and three nails and a half long. Fold it in half its width, making
it a perfect square, and letting D be the doubled part, as in Fig. 53.
SCALE.
+----------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B | ¼ |
| From the corner, B, to C | 1¼ |
| From the side to E | ¾ |
| From the top to E | ½ |
| From the lower corner to F | 1¼ |
| From the corner to G | 2 |
+----------------------------+--------+
Curve from A to C. Cut straight from C to E. Curve, for the arm-hole,
from E to F. Cut in a line from F to G.
For the back, Fig. 54, cut your paper three nails and a half square.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From A to B | ¾ |
| From B to the top | 2½ |
| From the top to O | ¾ |
| From the side to O | ¾ |
| From the corner to F | 1¾ |
| From the corner to H | ½ |
| From A to J | ½ |
+----------------------+--------+
Cut from J to B. Curve from B to O. Cut in a straight line from O to F.
Curve gently from F to H.
The collar is in two parts. For each part let your paper pattern be
three nails wide and two nails and a half long.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From N to the bottom | 1½ |
| From O to the corner | 1 |
| From J to the top | ¼ |
| From J to K | ½ |
| Leaving from K to L | 1¾ |
| From the corner to M | 1 |
+----------------------+--------+
Slope from O to N, and from O to J. Curve from K to M.
In making up, sew O F, Fig. 54, to E C, Fig. 53, for the shoulder. F G,
Fig. 53, is placed against B J, Fig. 54.
The skirt is fulled on evenly all round. The collar, cuffs, and top of
the hem may have a bordering of braid or work, and a trimming of the
same may be put down the front of the skirt.
A cape, or tippet, is added to it, which is made separate.
CARE OF THE LADY’S WARDROBE.
“Order is the best economy of time.”
It is of great consequence that dresses should be carefully and neatly
put away, as their preservation depends much on the attention paid to
this: a gown smoothly folded, and laid by directly it is taken off,
will last half as long again as one that is thrown about upon dirty
chairs, or tumbled and creased in the wrapping up. The dresses that
are in constant use may be hung up in a closet; but those that are
only occasionally worn, should be folded up and wrapped either in a
linen cloth, or covered with the coarsest brown paper; the latter is
particularly good for white silk or satin dresses, as the turpentine
in it excludes the air, and thus preserves the colour more effectually
than any thing else.
The best way to fold up a dress, either when put away or packed up, is
as follows:—
Place your gown upon a bed, so that the front and back breadths, lay
one upon the other quite flatly, the back breadth being uppermost, and
the slit behind in the centre, then fold the two outer sides over, so
as to make them meet down the middle of the back; take hold at the
bottom of the skirt, and double it underneath the gown for about a
quarter of a yard deep, then fold the upper part of the skirt forwards,
to lie above it, turn back the body and arrange it and the sleeves
neatly, so as not to crush them or the trimming, turning the sleeves in
towards the middle; then take hold of the upper two folds of the gown,
and by lifting them up, the tail falls down again without displacing
the upper part of the dress: this tail or bottom of the gown is then
turned up over the sleeves and body: a pin is put in at each end, and
thus the dress may be carried about, or packed up, without tumbling
it in the least. It may be well to mention that the reason the bottom
of the skirt is turned up in the first instance, is to determine the
size to which the body is to be folded, and the reason why it is let
down in the second, is, that it may preserve the body, &c., from being
crushed. The dress may be folded to fit any drawer or trunk by wrapping
the sides more or less over each other in the middle. This is called
the French method of folding; it may appear rather complicated at
first, but by exactly following the directions here given, and a little
practice, it will soon become easy.
To wrap up a child’s frock, place it on a bed, so that the front and
back breadths lie one upon the other quite flatly, the back being
uppermost; fold the skirt once or twice, according to the length,
letting the body lie upon the skirt, and turn the two ends over the
centre.
After travelling, dresses are apt to be creased, they should therefore
be hung up, either in a closet, or on hooks fixed in the wall; they
should never be pinned to bed or window curtains, as this very bad
practice is apt to tear the chintz.
Care should be taken to separate mourning from coloured dresses, winter
clothing from that worn in the summer, perfectly white articles from
those of a dark colour, as they are liable to be soiled and injured by
coming in contact with each other.
Stains, grease spots, &c., &c., should always be taken out as soon as
possible, or they may become fixed in the silk or other material (see
Receipts). After walking in dusty or dirty weather, the dress should be
carefully wiped with a clean towel or handkerchief: if splashed with
mire, it should be dried first, and then rubbed clean with the hand and
a cloth.
Caps or bonnets should be put on cap poles when they are laid by, but
as these take a great deal of room, it is a good plan to have hooks or
branches fixed in the wardrobe for the purpose.
After being out in the damp, wadding or tissue paper should be put in
the bows of a bonnet, until they are quite dry, and then removed, lest
from its weight it should pull the ribbon out of shape.
Veils should be stretched out on a bed to dry after having been worn in
the damp: if this be not done, they will dry tumbled and creased.
Shawls should never be put away whilst they are at all damp, nor left
folded as worn, but wrapped up properly.
For those persons who have not ample space for the number of drawers,
&c., requisite to contain their clothes, it is a good plan to have a
long narrow ottoman, settee, or sofa, without backs or ends, which is
made hollow, and to open: it might be the proper length to stand at
the foot of a bed, in a window, &c., &c. These are useful to contain
bonnets, furs, or for putting away winter or summer clothing. Plate 21,
Fig. 2, 4.
A dressing stool might also be contrived hollow, which would hold
soiled linen, &c. Plate 21, Fig. 2.
An exact inventory of the linen should be kept in the wardrobe or
drawers.
Plate 21, Fig. 1, represents a very convenient wardrobe for ladies’
dresses, heavy linen, bonnets, caps, furs, sleeves, &c., and is
contrived as follows. The centre is divided into two compartments, the
upper is enclosed with doors, and contains sliding shelves or trays for
dresses, collars, &c., the rest, consisting of drawers, contains the
heavy linen. The left hand wing has one door from top to bottom, in
which a mirror is fixed. This closet is intended for dresses to be hung
in, and the drawers below to put away furs, &c. The closet on the other
side holds bonnets in the upper part, and shoes in the lower, each part
having a door to itself.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PACKING.
Arrange so that your heavy linen, books, &c., shall go in strong
trunks, whilst the lighter articles may be put in boxes.
Every leather trunk or portmanteau, should have the name and residence
of the owner engraved on a brass plate, in the middle, at the top:
these trunks should have leather or sacking cases (for the latter,
see Plate 24), to fit them: the cases are made to have an opening
just above the plate, so that if going home the person needs no other
direction, but in case he is travelling elsewhere, holes are made in
the cover all round the edge of the aperture, to which a card may be
fixed, with the address.
The keys should each be labelled with the name of the trunk, or box, as
Imperial Portmanteau, No. 1., &c.
No trunk should be filled so as to strain the hinges.
Every trunk or portmanteau should have straps fixed in the inside half
way up, in order to strap down when the linen is packed over the three
flat sticks joined together with webbing, which it is usual to lay at
the top of trunks. These sticks are of great use in keeping the linen
flat and in its place. Tapes should be nailed across the top of the
trunk in the inside, for inventories, &c., to be slipped into.
Carpet bags should be purchased with large gores at the sides, as when
thus made, they contain many more articles, and more conveniently than
when they are only two plain pieces of carpet. They should also have a
brass plate.
When gentlemen travel much between two places, it is well to have the
brass plate moveable, and engraved with one address on each side,
so that nothing is necessary but to turn it, thereby preventing the
necessity of constantly renewing the written directions: this plate is
fastened at one end by a pivot, which is secured between the two locks
(every bag should have two locks), at the mouth of the bag, and at the
other end of the plate is a brass loop, which is fastened to the lock
at either side.
In packing for a large family it is a good plan to keep the linen
separate by putting a towel between the layers of linen, letting each
layer consist only of the clothes of one person, so that on unpacking,
the towel containing the linen of each individual is simply lifted out,
without the trouble of looking at the marks.
When the party sleep several nights on the road, it is advisable to
have a large carpet bag containing the night-dress of each individual
packed up in night-gown bags, dressing tidies (see plate 24), marked
with the initials of the person; by this means much trouble is saved.
It is a good plan to sew a camphor bag to the night-gown to prevent the
attack of fleas and bugs.
In packing, observe the following general rules:—
First, divide the light things from the heavy ones; lay drawings,
portfolios, books, desks, boxes, shoes, and all hard flat things at the
bottom of your trunk, taking great care to fit them together, so as to
be perfectly even at the top, putting paper, or any small soft things
in the crevices; then put in a packing cloth, and on this lay flannels,
linen, &c., &c.: these things should be opened to their full extent,
and laid quite flat; in the corners, stockings, rolls of ribbon, &c.,
may be put; silk or any thick dresses, folded as described above, may
be laid at the top, and the whole carefully covered with the packing
sheet tightly pinned down, and strong brown paper to prevent the
possibility of rain getting in.
Bonnets, caps, muslin, or gauze dresses, and collars, should be put in
a box by themselves: tapes may be nailed across the box and the bonnets
or caps pinned to them to keep them steady.
In packing a carpet bag, it is well to roll every thing _possible_
in small compact parcels, and to put them in, very close together,
especially at the corners and ends, keeping the bag as flat as it can
be, and stretched out to its full extent, width-wise at the same time.
CARE OF THE GENTLEMAN’S WARDROBE.
Above all things in a gentleman’s wardrobe, it is necessary that the
linen should be kept perfectly separate from the cloth clothes, because
the dark colour of coats, &c. comes off slightly, and would soil the
linen.
The following is the best method of folding a coat for travelling, or
for putting away in a wardrobe, where there is not much room:—
Lay the coat at its full length upon a table, with the collar towards
the left hand; pull out the collar, so as to make it lie quite
straight; turn up the coat towards the collar, letting the crease be
just at the elbow; let the lapel or breast on one side, be turned
smoothly back on the arm and sleeves. Turn the skirt over the lapel, so
that the end of the skirt will reach to the collar, and the crease or
folding will be just where the skirts part at the bottom of the waist;
when you have done one side, do the same with the other. Turn the
collar towards the right hand, fold one skirt over the other, observing
to let the fold be in the middle of the collar.
It is advisable to have about a yard and a half of brown Holland in
which to wrap the coat, trowsers, and waistcoat; this will keep them
clean and free from dust.
If a coat is new, sponge it the way the nap lies; a silk handkerchief
is a good thing to wipe cloth with, when spotted with drops of wet.
When a hat gets wet, it should be gently brushed till dry, so as not to
crack the felt.
Boot-stands should always be made so that the legs of the boots hang
downwards.
When boots are packed up, they should always be put into cases (see
Plate 24), which cases should be marked in pairs.
An exact inventory should be kept, and pasted on one of the doors of
the wardrobe.
MOURNING.
It shows the best taste to make mourning as plain and as little
fanciful as possible.
The deepest mourning is bombazine trimmed with crape; and entirely
crape, or silk and crape bonnet.
The next is black silk trimmed with crape: silk and crape bonnet. There
is a peculiar kind of very rich silk worn only by widows, and called
“Widow’s silk.”
A third or slighter mourning, is a plain silk dress, with either black
or white silk, or even a straw bonnet.
Half-mourning is grey or lavender silk in a morning, and the same
or white with black ornaments in an evening: bonnet either white or
lavender silk, or straw.
Bombazine and black silk dresses have broad hems at the bottom, or are
turned up with crape from five to eight nails deep; this is cut the
cross-way, and is put on with a crape piping at the top. The crape
should be put on double, or if economy is an object, should be lined
with black book-muslin, which makes it wear much better, than it would
do if put on single.
The cape or collar of the dress should be either of silk covered with
crape, or of plain silk, edged with hemmed or gaufiered crape, and the
cuffs to suit.
In very deep mourning, the collar and cuffs are made of white muslin,
covered with crape.
Frills and caps, either for the bonnet or to wear in the morning,
should have the borders of white crape lisse, tulle, or net, with broad
hems.
The peculiar kind of ribbon worn in mourning is called love ribbon,
and may be had either white or black; it is very plain gauze ribbon,
without any pattern on it but stripes.
Young persons, or those who are in mourning for young persons,
frequently wear a good deal of white, as for instance, white ribbons,
handkerchiefs, and white gloves sewed with black: very young children,
only wear white frocks and black ribbons.
For caps, collars, veils, see under their respective heads.
It is the wisest economy in the end to buy the best or jet black crape,
it is more highly curled or craped than the blue-black, which makes it
more expensive, but it wears well to the last, whereas the other, even
when new, does not look handsome.
The following observations may be found useful in some cases, though
they should be received with allowance, according to the circumstances
in which the individuals are placed.
Mourning is worn for a husband or wife, from one to two years.
For a parent, six months or a year.
For children, if above ten years old, from six months to a year; below
that age, from three to six months; for an infant, six weeks and
upwards.
For brothers and sisters, six to eight months.
For uncles and aunts, three to six months.
For cousins, or uncles and aunts, related by marriage, from six weeks
to three months.
For more distant relations or friends, from three weeks upwards.
It is usual for persons of large fortune to put their servants in
mourning on the following occasions:—
At the death of the heads of the family, their parents or children, the
deepest mourning is given, as follows:—
For women servants, one stuff or bombazine gown for best, and two black
print or working gowns, a bonnet made of silk and trimmed with crape,
muslin for collars and caps, a black silk handkerchief, black stockings
and gloves.
For men servants, a complete suit of dress and common livery, with
hat-bands and shoulder-knots, gloves and stockings.
For the brothers and sisters of the master and mistress of the family,
the mourning is slighter, consisting of one best and one common gown,
and no crape on the bonnet: collar, caps, handkerchief, stockings and
gloves, as above.
In less affluent families, of course, a difference is made, as it
is a great expense to put a whole establishment into mourning, and
frequently only one suit is given.
For infants or very young children, the nurse or immediate attendant
alone receives mourning.
Hat-bands, scarfs, and gloves, are given to those who attend a funeral,
including servants; and also, in some counties, are sent, as well as
cake and gloves, to the intimate acquaintance and friends.
HAT-BANDS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 36.
Are worn of black or white silk by all those who attend a funeral; the
latter only, if the deceased is a young girl. They are made of the
whole width of the silk, and two yards and a quarter long; they are
laid in plaits, and then doubled in half the length, and tied together
with ribbon, so as to fit the hat, leaving long ends: these silk are
replaced by crape during the rest of the mourning. Crape hat-bands are
generally put on the best, at the mercer’s shop: they are the whole
width of the crape, which goes round the hat, and are sometimes put
on plainly, and sometimes folded in several folds. When made up, a
hat-band is from one nail and a half to three nails deep, according to
the relationship of the person to the deceased.
Scarfs are made the whole width of the silk, and three yards long, tied
under the arm with a piece of narrow love ribbon. A scarf is worn over
the right shoulder, so that the bow comes below the left arm. Plate 20,
Fig. 37.
Military men merely wear a piece of crape, two or three nails deep,
folded round the left arm, below the elbow.
HOODS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 38.
The hood which is worn by female mourners at a funeral, is composed of
black or white silk, book-muslin, or cambric; it is the whole width of
the silk, and is three yards long; it is made as follows:—
Double the silk in half, making three folds in the front or part near
the face, all the way down; the back is plaited or gathered up, and the
two sides sewed together for half a yard from the top, so as to form a
kind of cap with long lappets; a bow is put on at the gathered part,
another in the middle in front, and a third on one side near the ear.
These hoods are made in pairs, because those who wear them walk two and
two; that is, the bow above the ear is put on the right side of one,
and the left side of the other.
A SHROUD,
PLATE 20. FIG. 39,
Is composed of a peculiar kind of flannel, woven on purpose, and called
shrouding flannel; it is made of a breadth and a half, full length,
so as to cover the feet; one seam is sewed up, leaving the other open
behind, like a pinafore; slits are cut for arm-holes, and plain long
sleeves, without gussets set in; the front is gathered at the waist,
and drawn up into a narrow piece; this is twice repeated, at intervals
of three nails down the skirt, upon each of these gatherings, round the
neck and at the wrists, a kind of border of the same flannel, punched
at the edge in a pattern, is plaited, and an edging of the same is made
at the bottom.
For men, the shroud is made exactly the same as the above for women,
excepting that there is no gathering in the front.
CAP.
If the usual cap is not put on, the following is made for a man:—it is
of flannel, cut exactly like an infant’s foundling cap (see Fig. 40).
A quilling of the punched flannel is put round the face, and a band of
it laid on behind, and across the top of the head, strings of the same,
are also sewed on.
CAP FOR A WOMAN.
This is of flannel, cut in the shape of Fig. 41: the round part is
plaited up to form the front, and a quilling of the bordering put on, a
band of the same laid on at the back, and strings (see Fig. 42).
DAY CAPS.
PLATE 15.
Caps are made of worked muslin, lace, tulle, or blonde, and are usually
formed upon chip or wire ribbon, either silk or cotton, which gives a
firmness, and causes the cap to set better to the head. A few of the
simplest shapes are given in the Plate, and a separate description of
each is annexed; in the mean while, a few words on the general manner
of making up caps, equally applicable to all, may be found useful by
the inexperienced.
After collecting your materials, and spreading a clean cloth upon the
table, begin to make your cap, by sewing wire ribbon on such parts as
require it, generally all round the head-piece; the crown is then put
in; if a round one, it may be either gathered or plaited—the latter
looks the best; the fulness is usually put quite in the front, letting
the part at the side of the face be plain: horse-shoe crowns are
sometimes fulled a little at the top. The joinings of caps are covered
or concealed by a narrow piping or rouleau of satin.
When you buy stiff satin ribbon, before trimming your cap, pull it
obliquely across all the length, first one way and then the other, to
take out the dressing.
Bonnet or other caps, made of a washing material, should have white
lambs’ wool run in the string cases, when they are sent to the
laundress, it does not take the starch so much as the net itself, and
thus the ribbons are easily run in again, on drawing the lambs’ wool
out.
[Illustration: PLATE 15
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 29
Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 30
Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 31 Fig 32
Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 33 Fig 34
Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 35 Fig 36
Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 37 Fig 38
Fig 39]
CAP FOR A YOUNG LADY.
PLATE 15. FIG. 1, 2.
This is a pretty simple cap for a young lady or invalid, as it is not
liable to be crushed by lying on a sofa.
Take a piece of paper, four nails and a quarter long, and five nails
and a quarter wide, curve out nearly half a nail from the top, A, to
within half a nail of the bottom, E, to form the part that is to set
round the face; from the corner, J to F, is two nails and a half,
cut in a straight line from E to F, and from F to H, in a slanting
direction, the point H being one nail and a half from the bottom, and
one nail and a quarter from the side; cut into the cap from H to C,
also sloping a quarter of a nail, and then round it gradually up to B.
When you cut out your cap, be careful that the net is doubled at D.
In making up this cap, join it neatly from F to H, and then gather the
crown, B C, into the small piece, H C. Hem it from E to F, and run a
coloured ribbon into the string-case: hem or bind it in the front, and
make one broad runner, to contain a ribbon, which sets it off. A small
bow may be put at H: and any simple trimming of loops or bows between
the borders.
A MORNING CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 3, 4, 5.
This is easily made, takes very little material, and has a pretty
effect. The head-piece is cut all in one.
For the pattern, take a piece of paper four nails long by three nails
and a half broad. The front, A B, is four nails; from B to C two nails
and a half. Curve from C to E, E being two nails from the top. Cut in
a straight line from E to F, at a quarter of a nail from the bottom,
and curve from F to A. The net must be doubled at D. The small circular
crown is one nail and a half across.
This cap is made up as follows:—Wire the head-piece all round, and put
a wire also from B to C, up the front, and from E to F, up the back,
to keep it in shape. The round crown is put in quite plainly, the part
into which it fits having been previously wired. The border may then be
sewed on, and a double quilling of blonde or tulle put round the crown
at the top. Lay a piece of ribbon in the middle of the quilling, and
cover the wires up the back and front; bind it with the same behind,
and put a ribbon, which forms the strings, across the border in front.
A bow at the side, and two behind, at the top and bottom, will be found
sufficient trimming.
A SIMPLE UNDRESS, OR BONNET CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 6, 7, 8.
This cap is in two parts, a head-piece and a horse-shoe. To cut the
pattern of the former, Fig. 6, let your paper be four nails broad by
four nails and three-quarters long. A to B is the front of the cap.
Curve it slightly about a quarter of a nail to B, which is a quarter
of a nail from the bottom; then curve to E one nail from the side,
and from C to E is a gradual slope, D being the doubled part. For the
horse-shoe, let your paper be three nails broad by four nails long. F
and K are each half a nail from the side. Slope from F to I, which is
two nails and a half from the bottom, and then round to H, which is in
the centre.
In making up, hem or bind the front, and put one or more runners,
according to fancy. The size here given is only measured for one. Whip
from E to C, and sew it to the horse-shoe, keeping the fulness at the
top of the cap. Hem or bind it behind, and put on the border.
DRESS MORNING CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 9, 10, 11.
This cap is in two parts. For half the front-piece, Fig. 9, cut a piece
of paper five nails and a quarter long and two nails wide. D is the
doubled part of the net, cut in a straight line from A to B, which is
half a nail from the side. Slope from B to C, which is one nail and a
half from the bottom.
For half the crown, cut a piece four nails and three-quarters long and
two nails and a half wide. Slope off from the top, A to B, cutting off
half a nail. D is the doubled, or middle part of the crown.
In making up, the head-piece is wired all round, and the crown then
set in quite plainly for two nails above the ear, and the rest plaited
in small neat plaits quite in the front: then take two pieces of wire,
rather shorter than the front of the cap, and quill upon them tulle,
blonde, or lace, similar to that of which the border is made. This
quilling should be narrower than the border, and only moderately full.
A ribbon must be laid upon the edge to conceal the stitches and the
wire. When these bands are put upon the cap, one of them is laid on
close to the crown, and the other between it and the front. The cap is
plaited a little behind to make it fit, and a small bow is put on in
the middle of the back. A ribbon, forming also the strings, is passed
over the front, and a small bow put on one side, close to the border.
In making up this cap more simply, or as a bonnet cap, the two trimmed
bands may be omitted, and a satin or gauze ribbon merely put across the
crown and in front, with two or three loops between the borders.
PLAIN CAP FOR AN ELDERLY LADY.
PLATE 15. FIG. 12, 13.
Cut your pattern four nails wide by seven nails long. Slope off at
the top from A to B, D being the back or doubled part of the cap, and
hollow it a little at the bottom.
In making up, run two string cases, to admit ribbon in the front, hem
it behind and pass a ribbon through, sew on the border, put a small bow
at one side, close to the front, and with strings it is complete.
CAP FOR A YOUNG MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.
PLATE 15. FIG. 14, 15.
This cap is in two pieces. For the pattern of the head-piece, let
your paper be five nails and a half long, and three nails and a
quarter wide. A B is the front of the cap. From B to D is one nail
and three-quarters, and is the top or doubled part of it. Curve from
D to E, the point, E, being three nails and a half from the top. F is
three-quarters of a nail from the side and half a nail from the bottom.
Cut in a straight line from E to F, and curve from F to A.
For the crown, cut a circle of six nails across.
In making up, join the head-piece behind, and hem it all round with
a narrow hem, so as only to admit a bobbin, which draws it to the
proper size. The front is quite plain for one nail and a half above the
ear, on each side, and then drawn equally in the middle. The crown is
gathered regularly all round, and set in. The single border, about one
nail broad, is of the same material as the cap. A narrow hem is made at
the edge, and it is set on rather scantily. White ribbon strings are
sewed on at the ears.
CAP FOR AN ELDERLY MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.
PLATE 15. FIG. 16, 17, 18.
This cap is also in two pieces. The paper pattern should be six nails
and a quarter long and two nails wide. Slope from A to B, B being
three-quarters of a nail from the corner. Slope again from B to C,
cutting off half a nail.
For the crown, D, which is the doubled part, is five nails and a half
long. E, or the bottom of the cap, is three nails wide. Round off the
corner at the top, F.
The front border of this cap is in one with the head-piece. The first
thing to be done in making it up, is to join a piece of the same
material, six nails long, and double the width of the border, say one
nail and a half, to the corner or ear of the cap. This is neatly hemmed
on both sides, together with the front edge of the head-piece, which
is to form the border. A frill the same breadth is sewed to each end
of the head-piece, and is joined to the long chin-pieces at one end,
and at the other end to the lower part of the crown, which is to be the
border behind. A narrow string-case is made in front, one nail and a
half from the edge, and a bobbin run in along the front to the ends of
the chin-piece. A similar string-case is also made at the lower part
of the crown, and two bobbins run in, fastened at one end, and brought
out at the opposite one, so that when drawn up they make the cap set to
the head. The crown is set in equally full along the head-piece, the
straight part being behind.
A BONNET CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 19, 20.
This cap is in one piece. Let your paper be four nails wide by three
nails and a half long. The front, A B, is a little hollowed, say a
quarter of a nail. D is the doubled part. E is two nails and a half
from the top, and a quarter of a nail from the side. Slope from F to
E, and from E to C, which is one nail and a half from the side, and a
quarter of a nail from the bottom. Curve a little to B.
In making up, hem it in the front, and make three or four runners to
admit a coloured ribbon, the number and breadth of these depending on
fancy. They must be allowed for in cutting out, as the pattern here
given is not measured for any at all. Join it from E to C, either
plainly or with a piece of insertion-lace, and at the back, C B, make
another string-case. The upper part, from F to E, is gathered and drawn
together, and a bow put on to conceal the gathering.
A BONNET CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 21, 22.
The pattern of this cap is a square of three nails and a half. D is the
doubled part at the back. It is slightly hollowed, as in the Plate.
In making up, hem the front, A F, and the back, F E; join it up neatly
from A to B, either with a piece of insertion-lace, with a satin
rouleau, or with a ribbon, and gather the rest, B C, up to the point,
B, where a bow of ribbon finishes it. Sometimes, as in the Plate, the
border is not carried on in the front, but, leaving about one nail from
the top of the cap, is earned back again to the ear, forming a second
frilling.
HELMET CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 23, 24.
This is a remarkably pretty little morning or bonnet cap, and is
generally made of tulle or lisse, as the shape is not so suitable to a
washing material. It is in three parts, the two sides and a piece let
in between them.
To cut the pattern of the sides, Fig. 23, let your paper be four nails
long by two nails and three-quarters broad. A B is the front, which is
a little sloped.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From B to C | 2¼ |
| From C to the bottom | ⅝ |
| From E to the bottom | 2½ |
| From F to the top | 1 |
| From G to the corner | ¾ |
+----------------------+--------+
Curve from B to C. Slope upwards from C to E, and round from F to G.
The piece let in between these two sides is about three-quarters of a
yard long, two nails broad in the front, and one nail and a quarter
behind, gradually sloped.
In making up, the long narrow strip is gathered on both sides and sewed
to the other pieces, Fig. 23, at A, G, F, E, C, equally full all the
way. The stitches are concealed by a small satin rouleau laid on. The
front and back are then wired and bound with ribbon. The border and any
simple trimming complete it.
BONNET CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 25, 26.
To cut the pattern of half this neat and simple bonnet cap, let your
paper be six nails long and four nails broad. A B is the front. Curve
from B, past C to E, C being one nail and three-quarters from the
bottom and half a nail from the side, and E being two nails and a half
from the top. D is the part where the net is to be doubled.
In making up, plait it behind in the centre, or rather large folds,
seven on each side of the middle, and wrapping the folds over each
other, so as to keep them all quite behind. Ribbon is laid on in two or
three rows in front, either simply upon the cap, or covered with net.
Bind it behind, and put on a border and some light trimming.
HANDKERCHIEF BONNET CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 27, 28.
This cap is formed of a half-handkerchief, cut from a square of six
nails and a half. D is the doubled part. The front is from A to B.
Shape it a little, beginning about three nails from the top, to make it
set better to the face. The extreme point, C, is rounded off.
In making up, hem it all round, and run in a tape or ribbon behind.
BONNET CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 29, 30.
The pattern of half this cap is cut from a paper five nails long by
four nails broad. A B is the front, D the doubled part of the net.
Slope from B to C, cutting off one nail and a half. Allow for runners,
according to your taste.
In making up, hem the front and back, run the string-case, join it up
the back from C to F, and hem the rest from F to the top. Run a ribbon
in this hem, which draws it up into a crown, and ties with a bow behind
at F. This cap looks very like Fig. 20, but the chief advantage of it
is, that it can be very easily ironed, as, when the ribbon is drawn out
of the crown, it is a flat piece.
BONNET CAP FOR A CHILD.
PLATE 15. FIG. 31, 32.
This is an oblong, six nails long by four nails wide. Hem it all round.
A E is the front. A ribbon is run through the hems, both in front and
at the back, B C, which draws up the cap as much as is necessary to
make it fit.
A CAPETTE.
PLATE 15. FIG. 33.
A capette is a sort of half-cap worn by young ladies, as a preservation
from cold; it is also useful as a pretty kind of evening head dress;
they are not expensive and are easily made.
Take a piece of silk or satin ribbon, the proper length for the front
of a cap, and about two-thirds of a nail broad, along each edge hem in
a wire ribbon so as to reduce the width to half a nail, putting three
ribs or stays of wire across, to keep the ribbon its full breadth; one
should be in the middle, and one at each end: then take another piece
of wire ribbon, which is to go at the back of the head, and which is
covered with ribbon similar to the front; the length of this must be
regulated by the size of the wearer’s head, and it should be very
accurately fitted, as all the comfort, and much of the neat appearance
of the capette depends upon it setting well and closely to the shape
of the head; this back-piece should be sewed very firmly to the front,
a little above the ears. A border of net, tulle, or blonde is then
plaited on to the front, and a gauze or satin ribbon folded, and laid
upon the edge of it, so as to cover the stitches, and the foundation;
this ribbon is long enough to form strings. On the back-strap is also
laid a similar piece of ribbon, and sometimes a small bow is put in the
centre of it. The front is trimmed according to fancy, the most simple
mode generally looking the best.
Some persons wear capettes under their bonnets, and then they are
usually made without wire, and merely bound with ribbon.
LAPPETS.
PLATE 15. FIG. 34.
Lappets are merely a double border of net, tulle, or blonde, three
nails on each side, leaving a space in the middle; sometimes they
are plaited all round, or made with a plain piece of blonde over the
forehead. The edge is bound with ribbon, the ends of which form the
strings.
WIDOW’S CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 35, 36, 37.
A widow’s cap is a very difficult thing to make well, and looks
particularly slovenly when ill put together; it is, therefore, often
the best economy to buy one ready-made, as there are persons who do
little or nothing else; however, as there may be some cases in which
this plan is not advisable, a pattern is given of a full sized one, and
a few words on the manner of making it up.
These caps should be of book-muslin (not of the thinnest kind) or of
white crape.
In the Plate, half of the crown, Fig. 35, and half of the head-piece,
Fig. 36, are represented. To cut out the former, let your paper be
seven nails and a half long, and three nails and a half wide; from the
side to A is two nails and three-quarters, from the bottom to B is
three nails and three-quarters, and from the corner to C, two nails and
a half. The doubled part of the muslin is to be laid upon D.
For the head-piece, Fig. 36, your paper must be three nails and
three-quarters long, by one nail and a quarter broad. From A to the
corner is three-quarters of a nail, slope gradually to B. D is the
doubled part.
In making up, after setting the crown into the head-piece, with the
fulness chiefly in the front, and hemming it behind and all round the
face, sew on the borders: these are made of the same muslin, about
a quarter of a nail deep, they are double in front, and put on very
full: after the muslin is hemmed, a short round stick is run through,
which gives a crimped appearance, and makes the hem hollow; to keep
the border in its place, a fine tape is passed through each hem, which
is tied up to the proper size; a sort of binder is then laid upon the
head-piece and meets behind; it is thus made:—take a piece of muslin,
one nail and a half broad and two yards long, make a hem at each edge
and a tuck in the middle, the same width as the hem of the borders,
pass the stick through all these hems, and run in a fine tape or
bobbin, to draw it up to the proper size. A piece is then prepared to
fasten under the chin which is three-quarters of a yard long, and broad
enough to admit of a hem, one quarter of a nail deep at each edge, no
plain muslin being left between; the stick is passed through these
hems, and a tape run in. When worn, the ends are pinned on each side at
the ears of the cap.
VELVET OR WADDED SILK CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 38.
This cap is very useful to wear under a bonnet, especially in
travelling. It is four nails long in the front, when folded in two, and
three nails and a half wide, it is sloped behind one nail, and rounded
about half a nail at the top.
In making up, a lining is put into it, and a piece of wadding laid
between it and the cap: they are neatly run together down the front
and behind: a string-case is made at the back, for about half a nail
on each side of the middle, and a ribbon run in to draw it up to the
proper size. It is neatly joined for one nail and a half, and the rest
is gathered up, the stitches being concealed by a large button, covered
with the same silk.
SILK CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 39.
These are often worn by elderly or invalid ladies, under their caps and
bonnets. Fig. 39 is an approved shape, to wear under a cap; it is made
of silk that approaches the nearest in colour to the shade of the hair.
It is in two pieces, the one a strip ten nails long, three nails deep,
and sloped off at the ends to two nails; and the other a round cushion,
one nail and a half across, and half a nail high: the strip is joined
up at the ends, which part fits to the front of the head, hemmed all
round, and strings run in to draw it up to the proper size. The cushion
is made and filled with light sheep’s wool, and the strip or head-piece
gathered regularly to it. The use of it is to make the crown of the cap
stand up.
PINAFORES, SACCARINES, &c.
PLATE 16.
Pinafores and saccarines are worn chiefly by children of both sexes,
and of every age, also by house-maids, while making beds, or persons
engaged in particularly dusty or dirty employments. For children’s
pinafores during their earliest years, look in Plate 3, where two or
three patterns are entered, among other articles of baby linen, and
where scales are affixed for children of various ages. The following
are the other shapes most in use.
CHILD’S SURTOUT PINAFORE.
PLATE 16. FIG. 1.
This is a neat and simple pinafore for a young child, and is made of
diaper, Holland or print.
[Illustration: PLATE 16
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3
Fig 5 Fig 7 Fig 4
Fig 6 Fig 10
Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 14
Fig 11 Fig 13
Fig 12 Fig 15 Fig 16]
SCALE.
+-------------------------------+----------+----------+
| ———————— | Child of | Child of |
| | 1 yr. | 3 yrs. |
+-------------------------------+----------+----------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
| Width of cloth | 12 | 14 |
| Length of cloth | 6 | 8 |
| Depth of shoulder | 1 | 1¼ |
| Slope of shoulder | ½ | ½ |
| Length of arm-hole | 2½ | 2½ |
| Depth of lappet or shoulder | 1 | 1¼ |
| Length of lappet or shoulder | 8 | 10 |
| Depth of neck-band when open | ¾ | 1 |
| Length of neck-band when open | 5 | 6 |
| Depth of band round the waist | 1 | 1 |
+-------------------------------+----------+----------+
The pinafore is folded in half, and again in two, to find the situation
of the arm-holes at the quarters: after sloping the shoulders, hollow
out the neck about a quarter of a nail; the shoulders must then be
sewed up, and the pinafore set into the neck-band, which is first
doubled exactly in half; this neck-band buttons behind. The sleeve
lappets are gathered near the edge, and neatly set on to the arm-hole
before it is hemmed, so that when the hem is turned down, no stitches
are seen on the right side; the lappet is then fulled at the edge a
second time, which being also firmly sewed down, makes it lie flat upon
the hem. The other edge of the lappet is hemmed, and silk washing braid
put on, to hide the stitches. The lappet should be set on to within
half a nail of the bottom of the slit of the arm-hole on each side;
little gussets may be put in at the bottom of the slit, to make it
stronger. A band is sewed on in front, of the proper length to button
behind, its proper situation is in the centre in front, and a little
below the level of the bottom of the arm-hole. Boys often wear a band
of patent leather instead, with a buckle. This pinafore is quite open
behind, being only fastened by the neck-button and the band.
A CHILD’S SMOCK-FROCK, OR CLOSE PINAFORE.
PLATE 16. FIG. 2, 3.
If for gentlemen’s children, they are made of Holland, either black
or brown, or diaper, but for the lower classes, of blue check, dark
blue linen, brown and black linen, or coloured prints. These close
pinafores are very suitable for children playing in a garden, or
for going to school in, and preserve clean frocks, or hide soiled
ones effectually. It would be well if at most large charity schools,
children attended with these kind of pinafores, which at once give them
a neat respectable appearance.
The number of breadths is not mentioned in the scale, as the widths
of the material differ so much; but it is advisable, if possible,
to obtain it of such a width as will agree with the width of the
pinafore, to admit of their being but one, one and a half, or exactly
two breadths in it. The sleeves, collar, bands, and gussets, may be
made to cut to little or no waste, by fitting them well, one with
another, especially if the band be made in two pieces, instead of one
length. The pinafore is easily made up; after putting in the neck
gussets, the collar is set on, the skirt being regularly fulled into
it. The sleeves, &c., are all put on as in a shirt, excepting that the
wristbands are sewed up so as to form cuffs.
Metal or bone buttons are those in general use to fasten them. The
two nails by one and a half that are over (see K), serve for covering
buttons, or make a small gusset for the slit behind, and also for the
bottom of the sleeves, if the wristband is made open.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | First | Second | Third |
| | size. | size. | size. |
+-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
| Width of skirt when sewed up | 9 | 10 | 12 |
| Length of skirt | 9 | 11 | 13 |
| Length of shoulder | 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ |
| Slope of shoulder to | ¼ | ⅓ | ½ |
| Length of arm-hole | 2½ | 3 | 3½ |
| Size of neck-gusset | 1 | 1½ | 1¾ |
| Size of sleeve-gusset | 2 | 2¼ | 2½ |
| Length of collar | 6 | 6½ | 7 |
| Depth of collar before doubled | 1 | 2 | 2 |
| Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
| Length of sleeve down the selvage | 4½ | 5¼ | 6 |
| Width of sleeve | 4 | 5½ | 6½ |
| Depth of wristband | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ |
| Length of wristband down selvage | 3 | 3½ | 3¾ |
| Depth of band | 1 | 1½ | 1½ |
| Length of band down selvage | 11 | 12 | 13 |
+-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+
LARGE SIZED PINAFORE.
PLATE 16. FIG. 4.
To prevent waste, it would be advisable to cut out two at once, as
the collars, &c., will cut for both pinafores in one width. Cut two
breadths for each pinafore, and from one breadth of each, cut the
sleeves. For the collars, &c., cut off a piece of Holland, seven
nails long, and divide it according to the Figure in the Plate, first
taking off the two collars, C C, the whole length selvage-wise, and
each two nails wide; next, the four wristbands, W W, of which two cut
in the length, of three and a half nails long, and three nails wide;
afterwards the four gussets, G G, two and a half nails square, leaving
a strip, two nails long, and five nails wide, out of which cut the two
neck-gussets, each two nails square, to be afterwards cut crosswise in
half; also little gussets for the slit behind, and the sleeves, if the
wristbands are made open.
These pinafores are made up like those before mentioned.
PINAFORES FOR BOYS, OF STRONG BLACK GLAZED CALICO, OR HOLLAND, AT 1s.
PER YARD.
PLATE 16. FIG. 2, 3,
Represents the width of the cloth on which the pieces composing the
pinafore of the smallest size are marked.
Cut two breadths and divide one in half, from the half cut all the et
cetera according to the figure.
S S are the two sleeves, five and a half nails square.
C is the collar, two nails by six long.
W W are the two wristbands, two nails by three long.
G G are the two sleeve-gussets, two nails square.
N N are the two neck-gussets, one nail square.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+
| | Boy of | Boy of |
| ———————— | 8 years. | 10 years. |
+-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |
| Width of material | 15 | 15 |
| Quantity for one | 1 10 | 2 0 |
| Number of breadths in each pinafore | 2 bdths.| 2 bdths. |
| Length of breadths | 13 | 15 |
| Length of sleeve down selvage | 5½ | 7 |
| Width of sleeve | 5½ | 6 |
| Length of wristband down selvage | 3 | 3½ |
| Width of wristband | 2 | 2 |
| Neck-gusset cut in half | 1 | 1½ |
| Sleeve-gusset | 2 | 3 |
| Length of collar | 6 | 7 |
| Width of collar | 2 | 2 |
+-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+
CHILDREN’S SACCARINES.
PLATE 16. FIG. 7.
These are exceedingly pretty, if finished neatly with braid or silk,
and are generally made of Holland, either brown, or the light grey
called French Holland. They answer well as morning dresses, in which
children can run about, and work in the garden, with less danger of
tearing or dirtying their under clothes, than with frocks of lighter
materials.
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+
| | Child from | Child from |
| ———————— | 2 to 4 yrs. | 4 to 6 yrs. |
+--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |
| Quantity for one | 1 14 | 2 2½ |
| Width of material | 12 | 14 |
| Number of breadths | 2 bdths. | 2 bdths. |
| Length of skirt | 9 | 11 |
| Length of shoulder | 1½ | 1½ |
| Slope of shoulder | ½ | ½ |
| Length of arm-hole | 2¾ | 3 |
| Length of slit behind | 4 | 4½ |
| Length of sleeve down the selvage | 6 | 6½ |
| Width of sleeve | 6 | 6 |
| Length of collar down the selvage | 6 | 6 |
| Width of collar | 1 | 1 |
| Length of shoulder-strap | 1½ | 1¾ |
| Width of shoulder-strap | ½ | ¾ |
| Sleeve-gussets | 2 | 3 |
| Neck-gussets | ¾ | ¾ |
| Length of wristband down the selvage | 2½ | 3 |
| Width of wristband | 1 | 1½ |
| Length of band down the selvage | 11 | 12 |
| Depth of band | 1 | 1 |
+--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+
In making up these saccarines, the work must be very good and strong.
The hem at the bottom should be about one nail and a half deep. The
shoulder-straps and neck-gussets being put on, the slit hemmed, and
everything ready for biassing the pinafore, prepare some strong netting
silk of a colour that will wash well—black, purple, or white are the
best—and then bias the front and back in four rows below the collar.
Small spots worked on the gathers, between the rows of biassing, in
the same coloured silk, have a finished and neat effect. The sleeve is
also biassed at about a quarter of a nail below the shoulder, and at
the wrist. For a description of biassing, see Part I., Chapter I. Some
persons put coloured worsted braid over the biassing, and, if chosen of
a colour that washes well, and sewed on with crewel, it looks pretty,
and stands washing better than most kinds of netting silk. Little
pockets of Holland should be put in front, being particularly useful to
children for their handkerchiefs, &c. The wristbands, collar, and band
should have some little ornamental work, either in silk or braid, to
correspond with the rest.
FIG. 5
Represents the width of the Holland on which the pieces are marked for
the largest saccarine, supposing two of them cut out together, which is
by far the most economical way.
After cutting out the skirts, mark off and cut in one piece the two
breadths for the two pairs of sleeves, and, before dividing the
breadths, cut selvage-wise the whole length a strip two nails wide,
which will be twelve long, and form one of the bands. The two sleeves
exactly fit in the remainder of the width. Cut next another breadth of
the cloth of six nails long, and from it take, according to the Plate:—
Two collars, C C, the whole length, and one nail wide each.
Four wristbands, W W, two in the length, and one nail wide each.
Four gussets, G G, three nails square, two in the length.
Two half bands, B B, to be sewed together to make one, each
one nail wide, and the whole length. (The other band is
already cut off.)
Two neck-gussets, N N, of two nails square, to be afterwards
cut crosswise to form the pair.
Four shoulder-straps, S S S S, of half a nail wide and one
nail and three-quarters long, and one piece over, which will
form a slit-gusset.
FIG. 6
Represents the smaller saccarine on cloth of the proper width. In this
case, also, it is necessary to cut two at once, to prevent waste.
After cutting the two skirts and two pairs of sleeves, of which two
sleeves exactly fit in the width, cut off a breadth six nails down the
selvage, and divide it as follows, according to the Plate:—
Two collars, C C, one nail wide each, and the whole depth.
Four half bands, B B B B, one nail wide each, of the whole
length of two nails and a half, leaving one nail over.
Four sleeve-gussets, G G G G, of two nails square,
underneath which lie
Four shoulder-straps, S S, of three-quarters of a nail wide
and one nail and a half long, and two other gussets.
A strip of Holland, half a nail by three nails, remains to
bind round the slit behind, which makes it firm and durable.
HOUSEMAID’S PINAFORE.
PLATE 16. FIG. 8.
House-maids have, or ought to have, a calico pinafore to put on
when making beds, as, after cleaning grates and emptying slops,
their clothes should not come in contact with clean bed-linen and
counterpanes, lest they should soil them.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------+-------------+
| | Yds. nls. |
| Quantity for one | 3 5½ |
| Number of breadths | 2 bdths. |
| Width of calico | 1 0 |
| Length of pinafore | 1¼ 0 |
| Length of shoulder | 2½ |
| Shoulder sloped to | ½ |
| Length of arm-hole | 5½ |
| Length of sleeve down selvage | 9½ |
| Width of sleeve | 9 |
| Size of sleeve-gusset | 4 |
+-------------------------------+--------------+
The sleeves should be left large and loose, so as to admit of the
pinafore being easily put on and off, over the gown. It is more
economical to cut out two pinafores than one, as otherwise two gussets
are wasted.
SCHOOL GIRL’S PINAFORE.
PLATE 16. FIG. 9.
Pinafores for the national and other schools are generally made
of strong blue linen check, with one or two pockets at the front
and sides, in which their knitting and needle-work are put. These
pinafores, after buttoning up the pockets, are carefully taken off
when school hours are over, folded, and locked up at the school-house.
In front, near the top of the pinafore, is sewed a square patch of
the linen, on which is marked, in red or other tape, the number of
the child to whom it belongs. The child is generally called by her
companions by the number of the pinafore, instead of being addressed by
her name, which is, in many ways, a great saving of memory, time, and
trouble.
SCALE.
+------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+
| |Girl from|Girl from|Girl from |Girl from |
| ———————— | 6 to 8 | 8 to 10 | 10 to 13 | 13 to 18 |
| | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. |
+------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+
| | Nails. | Nails.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.|
|Width of material | 12 | 14 | 1 0 | 1 0 |
|Length of pinafore| 10 | 12 | 14 | 1 0 |
|Piece for shoulder| 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 |
|Sloped to | ½ | ½ | ¾ | 1 |
|Slit for arm-hole | 2¾ | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Hollowed in front | ¼ | ¼ | ½ | ½ |
|Length of pocket | 3¾ | 3¾ | 4 | 4 |
|Width of pocket | 4 | 4 | 4½ | 4½ |
+------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+
A CHILD’S PINAFORE.
PLATE 16. FIG. 10.
This is made of brown Holland, or any other neat material, and trimmed
with braid or an edging, or simply piped, to give a sort of finish to
it. Take two breadths of the proper length (say twelve nails), and sew
them together up the seams, leaving two nails and a half from the top
for the arm-holes. When thus sewed, fold the skirt in half the width,
and hollow out the arm-holes, cutting into the cloth, from A to B,
half a nail. The neck is also hollowed to about one nail, from C to D,
leaving one nail and a quarter for the shoulders, which are not sewed
up, but neatly hemmed and made to button together.
There is no slit behind, but the back is made exactly like the front,
either with large plaits, as in the figure, biassed, or gathered. A
band, sewed on in front, buttons round the waist. When the pinafore is
taken off, the shoulders are merely unbuttoned, and it falls down, as
seen on the right hand side of the figure. Lappets or frills may be
added with advantage round the arm-holes, taking care to divide them at
top, to allow of the shoulders separating.
A SURGEON’S DISSECTING PINAFORE.
PLATE 16. FIG. 11.
These pinafores are worn by surgeons over the coat, and are made high
up to the neck and down to the waist, to prevent anything soiling
the dress while dissecting and performing operations. The pinafores
are generally of black, but sometimes of grey Holland. They have two
pockets, in which to put the instruments, cloths, &c. &c.
SCALE.
+-----------------------------------------------+------------+
| | Yds. nls. |
|Width of material | 1 0 |
|Number of breadths | 1½ bdth. |
|Length of pinafore | 1 6 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 10 |
|Width of sleeve, or two in the breadth | 8 |
|Length of collar down the selvage | 9 |
|Width of collar | 2¼ |
|Length of wristband down the selvage | 4 |
|Width of wristband | 1 |
|Length of shoulder-strap down the selvage | 4 |
|Width of the two together before being cut | 2 |
|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 |
|Length of arm-hole | 5½ |
|Size of square pocket | 5 |
|Distance from under the arm to the pocket-hole | 3½ |
|Slit width-way for the pocket-hole | 3 |
+-----------------------------------------------+------------+
The breadth and half are sewed together, the pinafore doubled as usual,
and the slits for the arms cut; after which the shoulder-straps are
sewed between, and not upon the parts forming the shoulder, taking care
to put the wide end of the shoulder-straps (which are sloped as seen
below), towards the neck. Put in the sleeves, and set the neck into
the collar. Find the situation of the pocket-hole, letting the middle
of it fall in a straight line, exactly under the arm. The slit is cut
width-way, and a piece of narrow tape is sewed round it at the edge,
and hemmed down. The pocket is _sewed_ on (but not _hemmed_) at the
inside with small stitches, and, when done, well flattened with the
finger and thumb.
The piece for the shoulder-straps is crossed, making the narrow end
about one-third of a nail, as in Fig. 12.
A strong case is sewed round the pinafore inside, made of 2_d._ or
3_d._ tape. Two large oylet-holes are made at the sides, and a very
long piece of tape is first drawn all round the string-case coming
out behind, and secured in front. These strings cross behind, and are
carried through the opposite string-case, as far as the oylet-holes, at
which they are brought out. The pinafore is generally put on over the
head. The strings draw round and tie in front.
[Illustration: PLATE 17.
Fig 1 Fig 3 Fig 5 Fig 7
Fig 2 Fig 4 Fig 6 Fig 8
Fig 9 Fig 10
Fig 13 Fig 11 Fig 12]
WAGGONER’S SMOCK-FROCK.
PLATE 16. FIG. 13, 14, 15, 16.
It is made of strong linen, similar to that used for sheeting, and the
biassing upon it is worked with the strongest glazed thread or cotton
that can be procured. This work must be firmly and regularly done, as
the price of these frocks depends on the quantity and quality of work
in them.
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------------------------+---------+
| |Yds. nls.|
|Width of the material | 1 0 |
|Length of the body, both breadths being cut in one piece| 2 14 |
|Length of each half collar down the selvage | 6 |
|Width of each half collar | 4 |
|Length of shoulder-binding | 3 |
|Width of shoulder-binding | 1¼ |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 10 |
|Width of sleeve | 8 |
|Length of wristband down the selvage | 5½ |
|Size of gusset | 1 |
|Length of slit behind and before | 1¼ |
|Length of worked part in front | 5 |
|Wrist biassed up to about | 1¾ |
+--------------------------------------------------------+---------+
The two breadths are cut in one piece, and hollowed out at the neck
to the depth of one nail, making the hollowing, Fig. 13, from A to
B, as abruptly as possible, so that from B to C is quite straight by
a thread. After the body is gathered to the proper size, so as to
correspond with the two half collars, set them on so that the divisions
shall come behind and in front, at which places the frock itself is cut
down one nail and a quarter deep.
The shoulders and wrists, as well as the front and back, are biassed
with strong glazed thread, in various patterns, and stitched as in Fig.
16. The plain part, between the biassing and arm-hole, is worked in
chain-stitch, as also the collar, in various patterns.
These frocks are to be met with at clothing warehouses, and cost from
9_s._ to 18_s._ each, the price depending upon the quantity and quality
of work put on.
SHIRTS FOR THE LABOURING CLASSES.
PLATE 17.
Shirts for labouring men are generally made of the stout linen called
shirting-linen, at from 9_d._ to 1_s._ per yard. Shirts for men of
lighter occupations are sometimes of calico, with linen collars and
wristbands. Blue checks, unbleached, and striped calicoes, or prints,
are used for that purpose.
Linen for shirts should be chosen of exactly the proper width,
according to the size wanted; and as it is an expensive article,
especially when cut to waste, six Scales are drawn upon the Plate for
six different sizes of shirts, by which the most economical plan for
cutting the shirt is seen.
Each Scale is drawn upon the width of cloth suitable to the sized
shirt. Scales are also affixed for cutting out a set of six of the same
sized shirts, as, by a little management, and occasionally reducing or
enlarging a sleeve a quarter of a nail, or making some such immaterial
difference, the various parts of a set, take much less cloth by being
cut together.
If shirts are made of linen, they should always be cut by a thread;
but if they are of calico, they may be torn: still, however, the
smaller parts, as gussets, straps, &c., should be cut, in preference to
tearing, as they are apt to pull out of shape. In preparing a set of
shirts, time is saved by cutting out all the pieces of the same size
together, instead of cutting first a sleeve, then a wristband, &c. It
also saves cloth to cut strips all in one length, and then sub-divide
it: for instance, when binders and sleeves are cut in the breadth,
as one is longer than the other, it is necessary to mark off the
width of the sleeve, and then cut down the whole length of the set of
sleeves, leaving the strip in one length, to be sub-divided afterwards.
The bodies should be cut each in one piece, and not in two separate
breadths. The neck-gussets are generally single, therefore, one gusset,
cut crosswise in half, forms the pair.
Before cutting the bosom, slit, &c., of the body, observe that the
shirt should be folded in two, so as to let the front breadth be one
nail shorter than the back breadth. When thus folded, crease it by
a thread, and, after leaving the proper distance for the shoulders,
proceed to cut the slit for the neck, and down for the bosom. Next
measure the length of opening for the flaps, and for the arm-holes, and
put in pins as marks.
A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHIRTS.
There are nineteen useful parts to a shirt, which are cut out pretty
nearly by the following rough proportions; but as the figures of men
differ materially, no exact rule can be laid down.
1st The SKIRT or BODY, which is cut, with
the two breadths in one piece, and should be long enough
to reach from the shoulder to the knee of the wearer.
2nd and 3rd. The SLEEVES, which are generally about
half the length of the skirt when sewed up, and the
breadth the same.
4th The COLLAR, which is the same length as the
sleeve.
5th and 6th. The WRISTBANDS, each of which is half
the length of the collar.
7th and 8th. The BINDERS, the length of a sleeve
and a quarter.
9th and 10th. The SHOULDER-STRAPS, the same length
as the wristbands.
11th and 12th. Two SLEEVE-GUSSETS.
13th and 14th. Two NECK-GUSSETS.
15th and 16th. Two HIP, or SIDE-GUSSETS.
17th and 18th. Two WRIST-GUSSETS.
19th One BOSOM-GUSSET.
PLATE 17.
SCALE OF SHIRTS OF VARIOUS SIZES.
+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+
| | Fig. | Fig. | Fig. |
| | 1, 2. | 3, 4. | 5, 6. |
| ———————— +----------+----------+----------+
| |Child from|Child from|Child from|
| | 8 to 10 | 11 to 14 | 15 to 18 |
| | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. |
+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+
| |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |
|Quantity required for one | 2 8 | 2 11½ | 3 1 |
|Quantity required for six | 13 14 | 14 8 | 18 0 |
|Proper width of cloth | 9 | 12 | 13 |
|Whole length of skirt | 1 9 | 1 11 | 2 0 |
|Space to leave for shoulders| 2 | 2 | 2½ |
|The space for the neck | | | |
| will then be | 5 | 8 | 8 |
|Slit downwards for bosom | 3½ | 3¾ | 4 |
|Length of arm-holes | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Slit at the bottom for flaps| 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Width of sleeve | 6 | 7 | 8 |
|Length down the selvage | 4½ | 5 | 6 |
|Width of binders or linings | 1½ | 2 | 2½ |
|Length down the selvage | 6½ | 7 | 10 |
|Width of collar | 5 | 3 | 3 |
|Length down the selvage | 6 | 6½ | 7 |
|Width of wristband | 1½ | 2½ | 2 |
|Length down the selvage | 2½ | 3 | 3½ |
|Width of shoulder-strap | 1 | 1 | 1 |
|Length down the selvage | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Size of sleeve-gussets | 2½ | 2½ | 3 |
|Size of neck-gussets | 1½ | 1½ | 2 |
|Size of bosom-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ |
|Size of flap-gussets | ½ | ½ | 1 |
+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+
| | Fig. | Fig. | Fig. |
| | 7, 8. | 9, 10. | 11, 12. |
| ———————— +----------+----------+----------+
| | Man’s | Man’s | Man’s |
| | small | larger | largest |
| | size. | size. | size. |
+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+
| | Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.|
|Quantity required for one | 3 4 | 3 8 | 3 14 |
|Quantity required for six | 19 12 | 21 1 | 23 0 |
|Proper width of cloth | 13½ | 14 | 15 |
|Whole length of skirt | 2 2 | 2 4 | 2 5 |
|Space to leave for shoulders| 2½ | 2½ | 3 |
|The space for the neck | | | |
| will then be | 8½ | 9 | 9 |
|Slit downwards for bosom | 4½ | 5 | 5½ |
|Length of arm-holes | 5 | 5¼ | 5½ |
|Slit at the bottom for flaps| 5 | 5 | 5 |
|Width of sleeve | 7½ | 8 | 8 |
|Length down the selvage | 7 | 8 | 10 |
|Width of binders or linings | 3 | 3 | 3½ |
|Length down the selvage | 11 | 12 | 12 |
|Width of collar | 3 | 3 | 3½ |
|Length down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 |
|Width of wristband | 2½ | 2½ | 3 |
|Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 4 |
|Width of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 |
|Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 5 |
|Size of sleeve-gussets | 3 | 3 | 4 |
|Size of neck-gussets | 2 | 2 | 2½ |
|Size of bosom-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ |
|Size of flap-gussets | 1 | 1 | 1 |
+----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+
PLATE 17. FIG. 2
Represents the best mode of cutting out six shirts of the same size as
Fig. 1.
Cut off the bodies or skirts.
Cut off from the breadth the strip for the twelve sleeves, being in all
three yards six nails in length, and six nails in width.
Cut from the remainder of the breadth the twelve linings, two in the
breadth, six nails and a half long, and the twelve wristbands, two in
the breadth, of two nails and a half long, thus using up all the strip.
Cut the other pieces as follows:—
Two collars in the breadth, C C, six nails long, three breadths.
Nine shoulder-straps, S S, three nails long, one breadth. Three
shoulder-straps and six neck-gussets, N N, three nails long, one
breadth. Four sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails and a half long, three
breadths. The collar is very wide, and intended to turn over.
PLATE 17. FIG. 4.
The most economical plan of cutting six shirts, the size of Fig. 3:—
Two sleeves in the breadth, five nails long, six breadths. Six linings,
B B, seven nails long, two breadths. Four collars, C C, six nails and a
half long, one breadth. Two collars and twelve straps, S S, six nails
and a half long, one breadth. Six sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails long,
two breadths. Four wristbands (leaving two nails over), three nails
long, three breadths.
The remainder, two nails wide, and nine nails long, to be cut up into
six neck-gussets, N N, one nail and a half square, leaving a piece,
half a nail wide and nine long, to form the remainder of the gussets.
PLATE 17. FIG. 6,
Is the most economical plan of cutting six shirts of the same size, as
Fig. 5. Take off twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and six long, twelve
lengths. From the long strip cut two binders, in width eight nails and
a half, six lengths. And two wristbands in the width, W W, three nails
and a quarter long, six lengths.
The whole strip is thus exactly used up. Three collars, C C, to be
three nails wide and a piece over, seven nails long, two lengths. The
piece left over of the breadth to be cut into Twelve shoulder-straps,
S S, four in the width, four nails long, three breadths. Also two
neck-gussets, N N, two nails square. Four sleeve-gussets, G, three
nails square, and one neck-gusset, N, in the width, three nails square,
three breadths. Thirteen flap and bosom-gussets, one nail square, one
breadth.
PLATE 17. FIG. 8,
Represents the best plan of cutting six shirts, similar in size to Fig.
7.
Cut twelve sleeves, S S, seven nails and a half wide, seven nails long,
twelve lengths.
In the remainder of the breadth, two binders in the width, of Eleven
nails long, six lengths. Twelve sleeve-gussets, G G, three nails
square, six lengths.
After which, cut as follows:— Four collars, C C, three nails wide and
eight nails long, leaving a strip one nail and a half wide for little
gussets, one length. Two collars and six wristbands, W W, eight nails
long, one length. Three wristbands, and six neck-gussets, N N, four
nails long, two lengths. Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four nails long,
one length.
A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS OF THE SAME SIZE AS FIG. 9.
PLATE 17. FIG. 10.
Measure off the whole length for sleeves, eight nails square, twelve
lengths.
From the remainder of the breadth cut Two linings, B B, in the width,
of twelve nails long, six lengths. Two collars, C C, in the width, of
eight nails long, three lengths. The strip is thus exactly made up;—
Cut six wristbands, W W, in the width, four nails long, two lengths.
Four gussets, of three nails square and two nails over, three lengths.
From the piece over, cut two shoulder-straps, four nails long, and a
piece over. Six neck-gussets, two nails square in the breadth, one
length. Ten shoulder-straps in the width, four nails long, one length.
Fourteen gussets in the breadth, one nail square, one length.
A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS SIMILAR IN SIZE TO FIG. 11.
PLATE 17. FIG. 12.
Measure off the twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and ten long, twelve
lengths. Two binders in the width, twelve nails long, six lengths. Two
collars in the width, eight nails long, three lengths. Two wristbands
in the width, four nails long, six lengths.
The strip is thus exactly used up, after which, Cut four sleeve-gussets
in the width, three lengths. Six shoulder-straps, five nails long, two
lengths. Six neck-gussets in the width, one length. Twelve flap-gussets
in the width, two lengths.
EXPLANATION OF MAKING UP SHIRTS.
Double the long piece for the skirt in two, making the front breadth
one nail shorter than the back breadth.
Measure the proper distance from the top for the arm-holes, and the
proper distance from the bottom for flaps, and put in pins for marks.
The skirt is usually simply sewed up, but it is preferable, especially
with gentlemen’s shirts, to make a hem the whole length of the skirt,
on each side, and then sew up between the arm-holes and flaps, firmly,
with thick even stitches.
Proceed next to stitch the collar and wristbands. Let the stitching be
made about six threads from the edge, and carried all round both the
wristbands and collar; taking care not to pass the stitches through
both folds of them, at the opening or part, in which the fulness of the
sleeve or shirt is to be gathered.
Next prepare the straps by turning them in, and drawing the threads; do
the same with the neck and other gussets.
Now sew up the sleeves, putting in the large gussets, the little
wrist-gussets and gathering them into the wristbands, to prepare them
for putting into the shirts. Then put in the side-gussets, and hem
the flaps and bottom of the shirt. These gussets are fixed by sewing
them on at the wrong side of the shirt to within a quarter of an inch
less than the square, and felling the other side nearly over. The neck
gussets are next managed in the same manner, taking care to put the
stitched part on the right side.
The shoulder-strap is then doubled in half, and slightly tacked on the
middle of the shoulder in the inside; then place each side flat on the
shirt, and stitch it in the lines that have been prepared for it.
The bosom is then stitched; and the button-holes made, or if, as in
gentlemen’s shirts, a piece is let into the front, it must be arranged
according to the taste of the wearer.
The lining is now neatly felled on, and the neck gathered, and set
into the collar, after which the sleeves are gathered and put in. The
bosom-bit may then be sewed in, and when the buttons are put on the
whole is completed.
The shirt is marked about an inch below the left hip or gusset.
GENTLEMEN’S SHIRTS.
PLATE 18.
Gentlemen’s shirts are usually made of fine Irish linen or lawn, and
sometimes of long cloth. Some gentlemen wear striped calico, but
seldom, unless engaged in sporting, boating, or fishing. Gentlemen’s
sons, up to ten or eleven years of age, or persons going into hot
climates, wear strong calico, it being considered more healthful than
linen, the latter is, however, the best wearing of the two, but more
expensive. Care should be taken to procure the proper width, according
to the size wanted; and the proper quantity, according to the number
required. The Suffolk hemp is considered the best for shirting.
Gentlemen’s shirts are cut much on the same principle, but upon a more
liberal plan than those mentioned for the labouring classes, with a few
exceptions: such as some varieties in the pattern and size of binders,
collars, shoulder-straps, &c. In most of them also, a piece of the
linen is cut out in the front or bosom, and two pieces of cambric, or
fine lawn, either plaited, or fulled in the place, to form the two
sides or half fronts to the shirt. A scale is first given of different
sizes, and then the best of the various patterns will be explained.
SCALE.
+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
| | 6 Years. | 8 Years. | 10 Years.|
+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls.|Yds. nls. |
|Quantity of cloth required | | | |
| for 1, about | 2 7 | 2 15 | 3 3 |
|Quantity required for six, about |14 10 | 16 4 |20 10 |
|Proper width of cloth | 9 | 9 | 10 |
|Whole length of shirt | 1 8 | 1 9 | 1 12 |
|Space to leave for shoulders | 2 | 2¼ | 3 |
|Length of arm-holes | 3 | 3¼ | 3¾ |
|Slit at the bottom for flaps | 3 | 4 | 4 |
|Width of sleeve | 4½ |6½ or 7 nls| 6 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage| 6½ | 7 | 8 |
|Width of binders or linings | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 6½ | 8 | 8 |
|Width of collar |4 or 5 nls | 2 |5 or 6 nls|
|Length down the selvage | 6 | 6 | 7 |
|Width of wristband | 1½ | 2 | 2 |
|Length down the selvage | 2½ |3 or 3½ nls| 3½ |
|Width of shoulder-straps | 1 | 1 | |
|Length down the selvage | 3 | 3 | 4 |
|Size of sleeve-gussets | 2 | 2 | 3 |
|Size of neck-gusset | 1½ | 1½ | 1¾ |
|Length of piece to cut for bosom | | 5 | 5 |
|Width of ditto | | 3 | 3½ |
|Width of cambric to put | | | |
| in each side | | 4 | 4 |
|Width of shoulder-strap, if gored| 1½ | 2 | 2 |
|Widest width to be gored to | 1 | 1½ | 1½ |
|Width of frills if used | | ½ | ¾ |
|Bosom flap and wrist-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ |
|Slit for bosom | 4 | 5 | 5 |
+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+
| | 12 Years. | 16 Years. | Men’s | Men’s |
| | | | Small | Large |
+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+
| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls.|
|Quantity of cloth required | | | | |
| for 1, about | 2 14 | 3 5 | 3 9½ | 3 15 |
|Quantity required for six, about | 18 9 | 18 9 |20 11 |22 7½ |
|Proper width of cloth | 12 | 14 | 14½ | 16 |
|Whole length of shirt | 1 13 | 2 0 | 2 2 | 2 4 |
|Space to leave for shoulders | 3¼ | 3½ | 3½ | 3½ |
|Length of arm-holes | 4½ | 4½ | 5 | 5 |
|Slit at the bottom for flaps | 4½ | 4½ | 4½ | 4½ |
|Width of sleeve | 6 or 7 nls| 7 | 7¼ | 8 |
|Length of sleeve down the selvage| 9 | 9 | 9 | 11 |
|Width of binders or linings | 2 | 3 | 3½ | 4 |
|Length of ditto down the selvage | 12 | 9 | 11 | 11 |
|Width of collar |2 or 2½ nls| 2½ |2 or 3 nls| 4 |
|Length down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 |
|Width of wristband | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 |
|Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
|Width of shoulder-straps | 2 | 2 | 1¼ | 1½ |
|Length down the selvage | 6 | 4½ | 4½ | 5 |
|Size of sleeve-gussets | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | 3½ |
|Size of neck-gusset | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 | 2 |
|Length of piece to cut for bosom | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
|Width of ditto | 4 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
|Width of cambric to put | | | | |
| in each side | 4 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
|Width of shoulder-strap, if gored| 2¼ | 2½ | 2½ | 2½ |
|Widest width to be gored to | 1¾ | 2 | 2 | 2 |
|Width of frills if used | ¾ | 1 | 1 | 1¼ |
|Bosom flap and wrist-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | ½ |
|Slit for bosom | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
+---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+
[Illustration: PLATE 18
Fig 1 Fig 14 Fig 16 Fig 30
Fig 7 Fig 15 Fig 31 Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 32
Fig 8 Fig 17 Fig 28
Fig 9 Fig 18 Fig 20
Fig 10 Fig 2 Fig 19 Fig 33
Fig 11 Fig 3 Fig 21 Fig 36 Fig 34 Fig 35
Fig 12 Fig 4 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 37 Fig 38
Fig 13 Fig 5 Fig 24 Fig 39 Fig 40
Fig 6 Fig 25 Fig 41 Fig 42]
GENTLEMEN’S SHIRT FRONTS.
PLATE 18.
There are various modes of making up fronts, dependant on the age
and taste of the wearer, as well as upon the changes of fashion. The
material of which the front is made, should be of a width as to allow
of the two half fronts being cut in the breadth; the length is measured
from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the opening prepared for
it, allowing plenty to turn in at each end. The two halves having been
made up according to fancy, are put into the front, making them overlap
each other a full nail, exactly in the middle (see Fig. 2), which
prevents the slit opening and exposing the skin. The most approved
fronts, and those in general use, are the following:—
A YOUNG CHILD’S FRONT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 1.
Is generally quite plain, with a broad hem and small pearl buttons; it
should overlap half a nail.
A BOY’S FRONT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 2.
This is neatly gathered in, and at the end marked A, the fulling is set
into a band of calico or linen, according to the material of the shirt,
into which the shirt itself is also gathered.
AN OLDER BOY’S FRONT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 3.
These are usually secured in broad or narrow plaits, according to
taste, at both ends, but not stitched down the whole way. The advantage
of this is to permit of the first being pulled over when washed and
ironed, at the same time that it naturally arranges itself in regular
plaits whilst worn. The hem is sometimes made to project from the
collar to half its depth at the top, where a little corner is left,
attached to which is a button-hole which buttons it over to the other
side of the collar.
ANOTHER BOY’S FRONT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 4.
This is arranged in small neat tucks, and is more adapted to young boys
than the last. The make of this shirt differs from the others in most
particulars. The front is entire, but with false buttons, and it opens
behind, where there is a slit for the purpose in both shirt and collar.
Many boys have their shirts made in this manner, but the washerwomen
complain much of the trouble of ironing these closed fronts.
A GENTLEMAN’S SHIRT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 5.
This front is stitched down with the greatest neatness, in the most
perfectly regular plaits, either broad or narrow, according to the
fashion. The distance of the spaces between the plaits also varies
much; sometimes an equal distance with the width of the plait is
observed, at others only a half or a quarter, and sometimes the plaits
are made to overlap one another: this last mode looks heavy and common.
Either buttons or two sets of button-holes are put, to admit of shirt
studs, in which case, the buttons of one side are straight down the
hem, and the corresponding button-holes on the other side are cut
width-wise.
ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S FRONT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 6.
This is fulled evenly at the top and bottom, and a frill of the finest
cambric, sewed on to both sides. Sometimes the front is sewed in plain,
and two frills sewed on one side, without any on the other, but this is
rather an old fashioned shirt.
SHOULDER-STRAPS.
The shoulder-straps to gentlemen’s shirts vary also a little, but
the plain long strap, Fig. 1 and 7, is the one most usually approved
of, nevertheless the few following shapes will be explained, for the
benefit of those who may like to adopt them.
A CHILD’S SHOULDER-STRAP.
PLATE 18. FIG. 2.
The skirt of this shirt is carried straight up to the neck-gusset,
which alone forms the strap, while an extra neck-gusset, the same
size, is sewed on to the skirt at B, to lengthen the shoulder; this
gusset must be cut in two parts, to admit of the fulling of the sleeve
between the pieces. All the sleeve is fulled into this gusset, and the
sleeve-gusset below, forms the rest of the arm-holes.
A SHOULDER-STRAP FOR ANY SIZED SHIRT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 3, 8, 9.
Some straps, instead of being continued over the neck-gusset, are
divided, or split into two parts, for about half their length, and are
made to be laid along, the one on each side of the neck-gusset. The
piece is cut in a straight length, and merely slit far enough to admit
of the neck-gusset between.
ANOTHER SHOULDER-STRAP.
PLATE 18. FIG. 4, 10.
This forms shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at once, and has a neat
appearance. The strip of cloth must be of the proper length and width
for straps when gored, as mentioned in the Scale: after being gored,
this piece of cloth is set on the shoulder, with, of course, the wide
end towards the collar.
SLEEVES FOR LITTLE SHIRTS.
Young boys often have short sleeves confined into a band, as in the
right hand sleeve of the shirt marked Fig. 1.
ANOTHER SLEEVE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 2.
This is often worn by children of the working classes, and is merely a
large gusset doubled, and sewed on double (see the right hand sleeve of
Fig. 2).
AN OLDER BOY’S SLEEVE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 3.
This is made similar to those of a regular shirt, excepting that
sometimes half a gusset only is sewed on to the sleeve instead of a
square. This is less clumsy, and with a thin arm is more comfortable,
though, generally speaking, the square gusset is the best, both for
wear and for appearance.
VARIOUS WAYS OF PLAITING THE SKIRT IN FRONT.
When the part is cut out in front, a piece of cambric that is not so
wide is put in for the front, so that the skirt below the slit is full
and requires confining; this is done in various ways:—
Sometimes in regular fulling, as in Fig. 2. Sometimes in regular
plaits, as in Fig. 3. Sometimes in gathers, brought much in front, as
Fig. 4. Sometimes in double plaits. Sometimes in plaits, stitched down,
as in Fig 5.
VARIOUS SHAPES OF WRISTBANDS.
The most common shaped wristband, and one of the neatest, is that which
is perfectly straight, and stitched neatly all round.
ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 1, 13.
Fig. 13 is a favourite shape, especially for boys. It is pointed;
care must be taken in stitching it, to make the right side lie on the
outside, when turned back, as in Fig. 1 (see the wristband attached to
the sleeve).
ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 11.
This is a very neat shape, and accords with the collar of the shirt,
Fig. 6. It is stitched all round, neat button-holes made, and buttons
sewed on.
ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 12.
This is remarkably pretty, and is much worn. The wristband when
unturned is nearly as wide again as its proper width, not including the
stitched hems.
BINDERS AND LININGS.
Shirts should always have binders or linings, and these vary in a few
particulars. The binder is intended to strengthen that part of the
shirt brought most into play by the movement of the arms, especially at
the back, and also prevent the wear and tear of the braces.
Gentlemen’s shirts have usually the binders very narrow, so as to leave
a pretty wide space between each binder and the front, as in Fig. 4.
It is however thought preferable by prudent wives, either to increase
the width of the binder, so as to join the front, as in Fig. 5, or else
to have a second binder or lining smaller than the first, between the
regular lining and the front (see A, Fig. 6).
GENTLEMEN’S AND BOYS’ COLLARS.
These vary so very much, according to the make of the neck and chin, as
also the taste of the wearer, that only a few general patterns will be
introduced as guides.
Many gentlemen prefer having a narrow band sewed on to the shirt, as
in Fig. 5, about three-quarters of a nail deep, on which they fasten
the collar, by letting the shirt button slip through a button-hole made
in the middle of the collar.
Collars are always of double lawn or linen.
A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 1,
is a neat finish to a shirt, being a simple broad band back-stitched,
and a fine cambric or lawn frill crimped and sewed at the top. The band
should be one nail deep, when made up.
AN OLDER BOY’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 2.
This is a very pretty collar also for the children of friends, being
particularly simple. It is, when made up, about two nails and a half
deep. As it falls over the jacket, observe to stitch it properly. It
would suit the wristbands in Fig. 12.
OTHER COLLARS FOR OLDER BOYS.
PLATE 18. FIG. 3,
Is merely a straight band about one nail deep, and Fig. 4 is the same a
little curved, so as to be deeper and more pointed in front than at the
back, which gives a light appearance.
A MAN’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 6.
See Fig. 6. This is a very neat collar, for an elderly gentleman
especially, and when made up, is about two nails and a quarter deep.
The front is curved, and rather deeper than the back (say half a nail):
to this collar should be worn wristbands, Fig. 11.
ANOTHER COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 14.
This is a neat shape, but, as it is doubtful whether it would suit
every one, it should be cut in paper, and tried on. The Plate only
represents one half, the letter A being the centre. It should be sewed
into a band.
A NEAT GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 15.
This is the most approved sort, and may be sewed to the shirt, or to
a loose band. The half or gills, are cut crosswise of the cloth, and
four of them make one collar, as they are double; in sewing them on the
band, two places are left to form a kind of long button-hole, through
which the strings are put when tying it on. A button-hole in the middle
of the collar, enables it to be firmly fastened to the shirt, as also
do the two strings sewed to the band. Fig. 17 is one gill, and Fig. 18,
the band.
ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 27.
This is also sewed upon a band, and is a remarkably pretty shape, if
cut according to the plan of the drawing, on which the measurements of
the nails are marked. The band, Fig. 28, has in it two button-holes; it
is about one nail deep, and eight nails long. The collar is cut all in
one length, and slit down in the middle to within half a nail of the
bottom, thus making the slit one nail deep.
A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 20, 21.
These are particularly pretty collars for little boys of from six to
eight or nine. They are made of double Irish linen stitched round, and
made to fall over the dress. Frills are sometimes attached to them, and
suit young children very well; two or three button-holes are made in
them, to attach them to the shirt. A broad black ribbon is generally
worn with them round the neck.
A MAN’S FRONT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 19.
These are worn by men and boys, to put on over a soiled or tumbled
shirt, to give a neat appearance; they are, however, seldom used, it
being much better to put on a clean shirt at once. It has two sides
of fine lawn, with a front of cambric, which is plaited or gathered,
according to pleasure, with a false hem down the middle, and buttons,
so as to appear to open. This is hollowed under the neck, to the depth
of a nail; two neck-gussets are attached, of one nail and a half square.
The gussets and front are sewed to a band or collar eight nails long,
and about one nail and a half in depth before it is made up.
A BOY’S CHEAT OR FRONT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 23, 24, 25.
This is a kind of habit-shirt, to which a collar with a frill is
attached. Fig. 23 is the collar, which should be neatly stitched, and a
frill of fine lawn or cambric, half a nail in the whole depth, set on
round it. Fig. 24 is the habit-shirt of the dimensions marked on the
Plate, and Fig. 5 is the cheat completed, when sewed together.
A GENTLEMAN’S STOCK.
PLATE 18. FIG. 26.
Gentlemen’s stocks are worn round the neck over the collar, and are
made of stuff, muslin, horse-hair or buckram: the Figure is the shape
of half of one. The halves are sewed firmly together up the centre (see
M); they are bound round the edge with leather, and covered with satin,
mode, or rich twilled silk. They are sometimes made, as in Fig. 29,
with a fold of silk in the middle, through which two ends are passed;
these are of one piece of silk, cut the cross way, and are four nails
broad, and seven nails long, rounded a little at the ends.
CRAVATS.
They are generally made of fine muslin, and are the shape of a half
handkerchief, being cut from a square of eighteen nails.
CLERGYMAN’S DRESS.
The cassock, the gown, the surplice, the badge or sash, the scarf or
hood, and the bands, constitute the chief.
THE CASSOCK.
PLATE 18. FIG. 34, 35.
It is made sometimes of stuff, sometimes of rich black silk, in the
following manner:—Cut four breadths of silk, one yard and a half long
each. Two breadths form the front, and are sewed together; after which,
a gore is cut from each outer side, the width of half the breadth at
the top, sloped to a point at the bottom, by which means, when reversed
and the seams are sown, the front is increased at the bottom to three
breadths, while at the top it is reduced to one.
The other two breadths form the back; they are gored in the same
manner, excepting that the gore is only a quarter of a breadth wide at
the bottom.
The shoulder is hollowed down two nails. The shoulder is two and a half
or three nails long. The arm-hole is three nails deep. The arm-hole is
cut into the stuff one nail. The collar is six nails long, four nails
wide behind, and two nails wide in front.
The sleeve is shaped like a coat sleeve, with two seams down it,
three-quarters of a yard long, and the whole width of the silk, which
just admits of its being shaped off in the width. The wristband is four
nails long, and about two nails wide. The pocket is six nails long, and
just the width of the breadth of silk, which, when doubled, forms it.
In making up, run and fell the seams very neatly, making the two gores
fall together between the front and back breadths.
The hem down the opening in front, is half a nail broad.
The back has a piece of sufficient width cut out from the top, A, to
the waist, B (Fig. 35), to admit of its setting plain to the figure,
and from the waist the skirt is left open; the extra fulness may be
confined in two large plaits behind.
The top of the front is cut on each side to a point, and on each point
is a little loop or button-hole; one loop fastens to a button inside
near the collar, see A (Fig. 34), and the other outside, to a button at
the opposite side of the neck (see B).
The collar is sewed on to the back of the cassock, so as to leave off
on each side, just at the turn in front, thus allowing plenty of space
for the bands. The pocket is put in straight, under the right arm,
about four nails below the arm-hole (see the dotted line, Fig. 34).
The sleeves are lined with black twilled cotton, the wristbands are
also lined and turned up.
A cross-way piece of silk is laid on at the bottom of the collar of the
cassock inside, and also in front at A B (Fig. 34).
THE GOWN.
PLATE 18. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40.
This is made of fine bombazine, and contains four breadths, of nineteen
nails long, and four gores of the same length, and three nails and a
half wide at the bottom, sloped to a point at the top.
Two of these breadths fall behind, next are sewed the two gores, one on
each side, and then the one breadth to hang in front on each side.
The sleeves are one yard long, and, when open, thirteen nails wide. At
the end they are shaped according to Fig. 39, 40: the end, A B, being
but three nails wide, and a piece cut out at C, at four nails from
A. At five nails from the shoulder, a slit is made in front (see S),
through which the arms appear, whilst the remainder of the sleeve is
sewed up all round. At the back of the sleeve, two gores of one nail
and a half wide, and two nails and a half long, are put in.
The shoulder-piece is cut according to Fig. 36.
The distance from A to B being three nails, and the depth of the sides,
C to E, D to E two nails and a half, while that in the middle is only
one nail and a quarter.
In making up, after sewing the seams, &c. together, and making a hem
of about one nail broad all round, the two back breadths of the skirt
should be fulled into the middle of the shoulder-piece. This fulling
is biassed down at about the distance of one nail and a half below the
first gathering. The two gores are set in on each side into the sleeve,
which is set into the shoulder-piece, and also biassed; the other
breadth comes in front.
The shoulder-piece is lined with buckram and silk, or black glazed
calico, to make it more durable.
THE SURPLICE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 32, 33.
This is made of fine Irish linen, one yard wide, and has in it four
breadths of one yard and a half long; two breadths being behind, and
one on each side of the opening in front. Besides these four breadths,
a gore, three nails wide and carried up to a point, is put between the
front and back breadths, up to below the arm.
The straight part of the gore comes in front. The sleeve, Fig. 33, is
one yard and one nail long, and the whole width of the linen in the
breadth. The sleeve has two gussets in it; that in front of the sleeve,
or nearest the wrist, is thirteen nails square; the other gusset, which
also forms part of the arm-hole, is five nails and a half square.
The collar is thirteen nails long, and five nails and a half in its
whole width.
In making up, run and fell the seams, letting in the gores, observing
to put the straight part in front. Hem down the fronts half a nail
deep, and at the bottom one nail. The sleeve is very peculiar, and
requires attention in making up (see Fig. 32, 33). The large gusset
is put into the sleeve towards the wrist, so as to hang down very low
below the arms. This gusset is rounded off at the corner, A; and forms
the other corner of the gusset, B, along the doubled part, B A, cut
open a piece large enough to admit of the small gusset being sewed into
it; D is the doubled part of each gusset. The whole of the top of the
sleeve is gathered up into the neck at the collar, while part of the
side of the sleeve and the small gusset form the part that fits into
the arm-hole of the surplice; the skirt is all fulled into the collar,
together with the top of the two sleeves, and then nicely biassed down
in two rows below the collar.
The collar is stitched all round like that of a shirt.
THE SASH OR BADGE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 30.
It is made of rich black silk or satin.
It is the whole breadth of the silk in depth, and three-quarters of a
yard long. It is folded in three or four regular plaits until it is
about two nails broad; these plaits are confined at the ends by sewing
them to double pieces of silk (see A), which are cut out two nails
square, and rounded off at the outer ends, to a half circular form.
Strings of ribbon of 3d. width, are sewed to these ends, which tie
round the waist.
THE SCARF OR HOOD.
This is made of silk, but of such various forms, depending on the
degree of the wearer, and the college where he has been educated, that
it is needless to enter upon the subject in detail.
THE BANDS.
PLATE 18. FIG. 31.
They are made of the finest cambric, and are about two nails deep, and
one nail wide when hemmed. The hem being a quarter of a nail deep. They
should be a little hollowed at the top, to fit the neck. The two bands
are sewed to a tape in the inside, which ties round the neck.
THE CLERK’S GOWN.
PLATE 18. FIG. 41, 42.
The clerk’s gown is made of black stuff or calimanco.
Cut four breadths of about one yard and a half long; these breadths
when sewed together, leaving one open for the front, are biassed
behind, from the middle of the second to the middle of the third
breadth; this biassing is in three rows from the collar, the first row
being one quarter of a nail below it, and the two others at one nail
distant from each other.
The shoulders are next sloped from the remainder, like those of a
pinafore, being three nails and a half long, and sewed up. The arm-hole
is cut into the front breadth at the distance of one nail beyond the
first seam, and is five nails long. The shoulder-flaps are one nail and
a half deep, by five long.
The sleeve is the whole width of the breadth, about six nails wide when
doubled, and is fifteen or sixteen nails long; at six nails from the
top, the slit is cut in the sleeves of two nails deep on each side of
the top of the arm. The bottom of the sleeve is sewed up together, and
when done, instead of sewing them as the sleeve would naturally lie,
the stuff at the bottom is differently folded, so as to make the two
creases lie together, and thus distorts or twists the sleeve.
Strings are put to the collar, which is cut like Fig. 13, Plate 16. A
broad hem is made in front, and at the bottom.
CHILDREN’S BONNETS.
PLATE 19.
The first bonnet for infants after the hood (see Chap. 4, in
baby-linen), should be soft and warm, and till they are two or three
years old, children should wear them of cloth, merino, silk, satin,
print, or calico, in preference to straw, or pasteboard. Bonnets should
be light but warm, and for young children especially, should have
little trimming or ornament. A few pretty and simple shapes for both
the upper and lower classes are here given and explained.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SIX YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 1, 2, 3.
This may be made of cloth, merino, chintz, or nankeen, with cotton
runners. It is in three parts, the brim, front or poke, the crown, and
the round patch.
Cut first a paper pattern the whole size of each part of the bonnet,
the Plate represents but half, therefore double the paper and cut it by
the figure. Your paper must be five nails wide by four long, for the
poke, Fig. 2.
Measure along the top, A B, two and three-quarter nails, the point, C,
is exactly half way down the side, two nails from the top and bottom;
the point, G, is two nails from the side, and one and a half nails from
the top; curve along B G C. E is two and a half nails from the corner;
from C to E, must be gradually sloped or rounded: go on, sloping it
easily, up to F, which is one and a half nails from the top; from F to
A, is quite straight.
The crown comes next; your paper must be four nails square, when
doubled at D. From the corner to H, is half a nail, from H to I, two
nails, slope gradually to K, which is two and a quarter nails from the
top: cut in a straight line from K to L, which is situated two nails
from the corner, and again in a straight line from L to M, one and a
quarter nail from the bottom. From M to H, is slightly curved. The
patch is made to fit the crown.
[Illustration: PLATE 19
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3
Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10
Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15
Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19
Fig. 20 Fig. 21 Fig. 22
Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26
Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Fig. 29
Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32
Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35
Fig. 36 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 39
Fig. 40 Fig. 41 Fig. 42 Fig. 43
Fig. 44 Fig. 45 Fig. 46 Fig. 47
Fig. 48 Fig. 49 Fig. 51
Fig. 50 Fig. 52
Fig. 53 Fig. 54 Fig. 55
Fig. 56 Fig. 57
Fig. 59 Fig. 60 Fig. 58
Fig. 61 Fig. 62 Fig. 63
Fig. 64 Fig. 65 Fig. 66]
In making up, a lining is cut out exactly the size of the outside, run
the two together on the wrong side, at the edge of the brim, and turn
them; then run cotton cords between the lining and the outside, as in
the Plate, and two or three are put round the edge to give it firmness:
runners are also made in the crown and the patch, the latter having a
cord all round it, and they are then sewed strongly together, the part,
H M, fitting into B G C, and the patch into I K. A curtain, one nail
and a half in depth, is put on rather full behind, and strings of the
chintz, or calico neatly hemmed, or of ribbon will complete it.
The size here given is for a child five years old, but it is a useful
kind of bonnet for those much younger.
CHILD’S DRAWN BONNET.
PLATE 19. FIG. 4, 5, 6.
This is usually made of silk, satin, or glazed calico.
The poke or front (Fig. 5), is an oblong, which is cut two or more
nails down the selvage, according to the depth desired, and of such a
length (cut width-way of the material), as will be two and a half times
the length from ear to ear. This oblong is hemmed at each side, and
bobbins put in to draw it up: two runners are made at equal distances
between to draw up. The crown or head-piece, Fig. 6, is in one piece,
and is also an oblong, about one nail deeper than the poke, and a
fourth longer. Make runners down each side, and three or four equal
distances between.
In making up the bonnet, the poke is drawn up to the proper size, and
a double piping laid round it. The crown is then formed by drawing up
the first runner as close as possible, and the second sufficiently so
to make it flat and circular. The remainder is drawn to the proper
shape to form the head-piece, being less drawn at each succeeding
runner to make it wider at the bottom. Lay on a band of silk piped at
each end, and sew it firmly round, and then attach the poke to it. Next
make a soft lining to the head-piece, and a circular piece of wool in
muslin may be attached to the crown, to keep it in shape. A curtain and
strings complete the bonnet. A quilling of ribbon round the edge, and a
rosette at the side, give a greater finish.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 10.
This is a remarkably neat little bonnet; it is in four parts. The
poke is a plain piece two nails and a half deep, by ten nails and a
half long, sloped off at the outer edge one nail and a half at each
end, it is ornamented with cotton runners, quilted or braided; cut a
strip, Fig. 8, nine nails long by one nail and a half wide, which must
have a runner at each edge, and the same in rows across, to give it
firmness, if it is not quilted or braided; the third part is another
strip sixteen nails long, and three nails and a quarter wide at the
widest part, sloped off nearly to a point at each end, Fig. 10; the
horse-shoe, two nails and a quarter long, and one nail and three
quarters broad at the top, is lined and has a cord run all round the
edge. The curtain is one nail and a half deep, put on rather full.
In making up, sew the quilted poke or front strongly to the straight
strip, Fig. 8; gather the sloped strip, Fig. 10, at each edge, set
it on one side into the straight piece, and on the other into the
horse-shoe, fulling it more in front than at the sides. Put on the
curtain, and the bonnet is finished. It draws up behind to the side of
the head; here it is represented as undrawn.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD TWO YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.
This is well adapted for a child’s first or second bonnet, and looks
well, made of coloured kerseymere or Indiana braided or worked in
chain-stitch.
To cut out the poke, take a piece of paper, which when doubled is four
nails long by two and a half nails wide (see Fig. 12), the doubled
part from D to B, is two nails long; slope off gradually from A to E,
beginning the greatest sloping at F, which is about half way down the
side; the point E is one nail and a half from the corner, continue
sloping to C, which is about one nail above the bottom of your paper;
the curve, B C, is parallel to, or even with the curve, A F E. The
head-piece, Fig. 13, is cut from a paper, which when folded is three
nails long and two broad; from G to H, the doubled part, is one nail,
from G to L, two nails and a quarter; cut a slightly curved line from
L to K, the point K, being half a nail from the corner, next cut quite
straight to J, being three-quarters of a nail above the angle or
corner, sweep gradually from J to H. Fig. 14 represents half the crown;
D is the doubled part, and is four nails long from M to N; the part
from N to O is four and a half nails, the rest from O to M, is cut like
a quarter of a circle. Fig. 15 is the part that supports or holds up
the crown behind, the doubled part, U P, is two nails and a half long,
from U to T is two nails and a quarter, curve it gently about half a
nail; from the corner to T is half a nail; from T to S is one nail and
a half, S being half a nail from the side of the square; the top of R,
the next vandyke is two nails in a straight line from the bottom. These
vandykes are about one nail deep.
The Plate shows sufficiently clearly how this bonnet is made up, to
dispense with any further description, except to say that the crown,
Fig. 14, is evenly gathered into the head-piece, Fig. 13, and the
back-piece, Fig. 15. The curtain is put on, strings and a small bow may
be added behind.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD THREE YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 16, 17, 18, 19.
This bonnet is very generally worn; the one represented in the Plate
is for a little girl about three years old, though older and younger
children would find it both suitable and comfortable; it is made of
cloth, print, or nankeen, lined, and with runners in every part. It is
in three pieces; to cut out the poke, Fig. 19, take a piece of paper,
which, when folded in two, is four nails long and two nails and a
quarter broad. D is the doubled part; from A to B is three nails, it is
slightly curved; A being about one quarter of a nail from the top and
half a nail from the side, next cut in nearly a straight line to C, and
continue the curving to E, which is half a nail from the corner; from B
to E, in a straight line, is two nails and a quarter; cut in a straight
direction from E to F, the latter being one quarter of a nail above the
corner; from A to F is one nail and three-quarters.
The head-piece, Fig. 17, when doubled (D being the folded part), is two
nails and a half long, and two nails at the deepest part, which is to
go in the front, sloped off to one nail and a half for the back. The
crown is merely a horse-shoe; Fig. 18 is two nails and a half long, one
nail and three-quarters at the top, and sloped off one quarter of a
nail on each side, so as to make it only one nail and a quarter at the
bottom.
In making up, the runners may be put in simply as in the Plate, or
arranged in a pattern, or the bonnet may be quilted, but there must be
two or three runners round the edge, and inner part of the poke, at the
top and bottom of the head-piece, and all round the horse-shoe.
Put on a full curtain of one nail and a half deep.
BONNET FOR A CHILD FOUR YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 20, 21, 22.
This is a neat little bonnet with a stiff front, and is cut out as
follows:—
For the pattern of the front, Fig. 20, let your paper, when folded in
two, be three nails and a half long, by three nails broad, it may be
rounded or left square at the ends, according to fancy, D being the
doubled part; this front or poke is made of stiff pasteboard.
The crown, Fig. 22, is seven nails long at the doubled part, D, and
six nails long at the bottom, A B, cut in a straight line, A F, for
two nails, and again straight, F E, for three nails, then round it
gradually up to C.
Before making up, cut out two pieces of calico, print, silk, or other
material, the size of the poke, Fig. 21, then run them neatly together
at the edge, and up the ends, and slip the pasteboard in; hem the
bottom of the crown, Fig. 22, A B, and up the ends, A F, for the
curtain. Hem from F to E, and make a runner about half a nail within
the edge up to C, through which a bobbin must be passed, and drawn up
to the width of the poke; it must be sewed strongly to the outside
of the front, letting the little frill lie over it, as in the Plate,
forming a sort of trimming; the lining of the poke must be only turned
in, and slightly tacked down, so that the pasteboard may be easily
taken out when the bonnet is washed. A runner is made across the back
of the crown, about two nails above F E G, through which tapes are
passed: the ends of the lower ones are sewed a little way along the
poke, and when the bonnet is fitted to the head, these runners are
drawn to the proper size. Put on hemmed strings of the same material.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD, THREE, FOUR, OR FIVE YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 23, 24, 25, 26.
This is a school child’s common bonnet, it may be made of print,
gingham, or nankeen, and is in three parts. The head-piece, Fig. 24,
when folded in two, is seven nails long, and three nails wide at the
doubled and widest part, D, sloped off to one nail and a half at the
bottom. The poke, Fig. 26, when doubled, is two nails and a half broad,
by three nails and a half long, and a little rounded from A to B. Fig.
25 is the horse-shoe, two nails long, and two nails broad at the top,
sloped off to one nail and three-quarters at the bottom.
In making up, the front is wadded or quilted, with a cotton runner
at the outer edge, and two or three at the inner edge, to give it
firmness; a runner is also put in round the horse-shoe. The front of
the crown is gathered evenly to the poke, the horse-shoe set in, and a
curtain set on behind.
When worn, the front of the bonnet is turned up, as in the Plate.
ANOTHER SOFT BONNET FOR A YOUNG CHILD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 27, 28, 29.
This is also a school child’s bonnet, and may be made of any soft or
washing material.
Fig. 29 represents the poke, which, when doubled at D, is three nails
and a half long, by three nails wide. The crown, Fig. 28, is six nails
wide at the bottom, and seven nails at its longest part, rounded off
on each side; three runners are made at the bottom of it, about a nail
apart.
The poke is quilted, wadded, or run with cotton, and the crown sewed
to it, rather fuller in the centre in front, than at the sides; the
runners are drawn up, and tied at the proper size, and upon the lower
one a curtain, one nail and a half or two nails deep, is set, and
extends a little on each side upon the ends of the front or brim.
HATS AND CAPS.
PLATE 19.
Hats and caps for young boys should be made of soft materials, similar
to bonnets for little girls; as they become older, their hats must
of course be stronger and stiffer; some of both sorts will here be
described, as well as travelling and other caps for grown-up persons.
PORRINGER CLOTH CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 30.
This is an extremely simple cap for young boys; it is made of cloth
or merino, and consists of three pieces. The band, which is merely a
piece of cloth half a nail deep, and sufficiently long to go round the
child’s head, say, eight nails and a half, or nine nails long; the
head-piece, which is also about nine nails long, before being joined
up, and one nail and a half deep, is made with runners in an upright
direction or across the cloth at regular distances, which give a degree
of firmness to the cap; the round patch or crown is about one nail and
a half across, with a runner made round the edge of it. When made up,
it should be lined with demet or flannel and soft calico.
SOFT HAT FOR A YOUNG CHILD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 31, 32.
This little hat looks very pretty made of glazed cambric muslin or of
calico, either white or coloured; if wanted for winter wear, it may be
made of merino, cloth, or kerseymere, plain or braided.
For the brim, Fig. 32, cut a circle five nails across, with a hole in
the centre of it two nails across, for the head, a little may be sloped
off from the back, or not, according to pleasure; the crown is one nail
and a quarter deep, and nine nails long before it is joined up, and the
circle or patch is made to fit exactly. When the hat is made of glazed
calico, it is lined with the same, and runners of cotton put in, either
simply or in a pattern. A strap or ribbon is attached on each side,
from about half way up the crown to about half the breadth of the brim,
to keep it up and in its place. Strings are sewed at the inside.
SOFT CAP FOR A YOUNG BOY.
PLATE 19. FIG. 33.
This cap is made of glazed calico, white or coloured, or of any other
soft light material, with runners in it; the brim is cut in the shape
of Fig. 39, it is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a half
broad at the deepest part, sloped off as in the Plate; the crown is one
nail and a quarter deep, and from eight to nine nails long before being
sewed up; the circle of course is made to fit it.
ANOTHER CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 34.
This is only a variety of the preceding cap; the brim is cut like Fig.
35, and is four nails long, and one nail deep, at the broadest part in
front, sloped off at the ends; the Plate shews the way in which the
runners are put in.
CAP FOR AN INFANT BOY.
PLATE 19. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39.
This is a remarkably pretty cap for an infant, after he has left off
his hood; it is made of white or coloured satin, kerseymere, or merino.
The brim, Fig. 39, is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a
half deep, and sloped as in the Plate, the head-piece is a full nail
deep when folded in small plaits, and eight nails and three-quarters
long before it is sewed up; the little flap or piece behind, Fig. 38,
is about one nail deep; the longest part of it, or that to be turned
up, is two nails and three-quarters long; that fastened to the hat is
one nail and three-quarters; it is sloped at each end. The square or
top of the hat, is two nails and a half every way; four other pieces
must be cut one nail deep, and two nails and three-quarters wide at the
top, sloped at each side down to two nails at the bottom.
In making up, take a piece of buckram of the size of the head-piece,
lay it upon a demet or thin wadding, and flute the kerseymere upon it,
putting a fine silk cord, or a piece of coarse stay or netting silk
between the flutes.
The crown must next be prepared; ornament the square according to
fancy, working the pattern in spots, either in braid, or in stay or
netting silk; line this also with buckram, demet, and silk, to each
side of the square, sew the widest side of each of the four pieces
above described, these pieces having previously been lined, as before
mentioned, sew the corners of the four firmly together, inlaying a
piping; the head-piece is then put on, next set on the back-piece, Fig.
38, this is lined with silk or satin, in the following manner:—After
the buckram is put in, the lining is sewed to it, and not being sloped
at the narrow end of the kerseymere, it allows of being fulled or
plaited at the part nearest the hat. The brim is finished in the same
manner, the satin lining being plain at the edge, and gathered to the
head-piece; it has also demet and buckram within the lining, and is
worked in a similar manner to the square, upon the front or turned up
part, which is of kerseymere. Put a silk, calico, or muslin lining into
the head, and a silk tassel at the left corner of the square; a satin
rosette in front, and strings complete the cap.
BOY’S CAP OF FIVE OR SIX YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 40, 41, 42, 43.
This cap is made of cloth or Holland; the crown, Fig. 41, is fourteen
nails long, and three nails deep; the band, Fig. 42, is eight nails
long, and half a nail broad; the brim or edge, Fig. 43, is eleven nails
long, and one nail deep.
In making up, the crown, Fig. 41, is wadded and lined, it is then
gathered evenly into the band on one side, and into the small circular
patch or button on the other; the band, Fig. 42, is lined with flannel
as well as calico; the brim, which is wadded and lined, has a piece of
buckram put within the lining, it is sewed on so as to turn up and set
rather round. A tassel or bow of ribbon may or may not be added at the
top, according to pleasure.
CAP FOR A BOY SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 44, 45, 46, 47.
This looks neat made of Holland, with a piping of dark blue, green, or
the same colour.
The top of the crown is in eight pieces, cut out of a circle, five
nails across; this will make each division two nails and a half long,
and two nails at the broadest part, sloped to a point, and the shape
of Fig. 46. The side of the crown is in four pieces, Fig. 47; to cut
these, make another circle the same size as the top, and in the centre
of it cut a smaller one, two nails across, then divide the circle into
four parts. The band is about one nail broad, when made up, and nine
nails long, before it is joined at the ends.
In making up, sew the eight pieces together, laying a coloured piping
between them, and putting a button at the top; the four sides, Fig.
47, being previously lined with buckram, demet, and glazed calico, are
then each sewed to the circle thus formed, one of the sides fitting to
two of the smaller pieces at the top; they must be sewed on the wrong
side very firmly, and turned down, so that the stitches are not seen on
the outside, the ends of these four pieces being piped, are then sewed
together. The cap is now ready for the band, which, after being wadded,
is stitched on, and the whole is finished.
CAP FOR A BOY, SIX OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 48, 49, 50.
This is a simple cap and easily made; it consists merely of two pieces.
The crown is a circle of eight nails across, lined and wadded, which is
equally gathered all round, and set into a band, which is one nail and
a half deep, and nine or ten nails long before it is joined up, Fig.
50: this band is also wadded, and a bow of ribbon may be put on one
side.
CAP FOR AN OLDER BOY.
PLATE 19. FIG. 53, 54, 55, 56.
This is a remarkably neat cap, and may be worn by either a boy or a
man; it is generally made of cloth.
The circle at the top is five nails across, the side part is cut out
of a circle in the same manner as that of Fig. 45, the outer circle
being five nails across, and the inner one two nails; this circle is
divided into four pieces; the band, Fig. 56, is one nail and a quarter
broad, and eleven nails long before it is sewed up; the peak, Fig 55,
is generally made of patent leather; it is part of a circle, five nails
across, and is one nail and a quarter deep at the broadest part.
In making up, the circle is first lined with flannel and then with
silk; it is stretched over a strong but not very thick wire at the
edge, to keep it in shape, and a piping of cloth put on all round: the
sides, Fig. 54, are then lined with soft leather, and sewed to the
circle on the wrong side, before being joined together; the seams are
next sewed up, and a thin hoop of whalebone put at the bottom of these
sides, just where the band is to be joined on, round the head; the band
is firmly stitched to it, which band is also lined with thin, but not
very pliable leather: the peak is then put on; a lining of leather one
nail and a quarter deep is sewed in the inside, to the inner part of
which, a piece of silk is attached, with a string-case and cord to draw
it up to the size of the head. Sometimes a band of black velvet, or of
silver or gold lace is laid upon the cloth one, sometimes it is left
quite plain. The strap under the chin is of patent leather, fastened at
the side with a small buckle.
GENTLEMEN’S TRAVELLING CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 57, 58.
This is a particularly comfortable cap, and is easily made. It is
composed of fine cloth of any dark colour, trimmed with fur.
Make a circle, seven nails across, and cut it into six parts; the
brim is made either of patent leather, or of cloth, it must be three
nails and a half long at the straight part or bottom of it, one and
three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part, and rounded
off at each end: the flaps or pieces for the ears are also one and
three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part; they are cut in one
length with the band, which goes behind the cap, and is one nail deep;
the whole length, including the ear-flaps, is seven nails.
In making up, first join with a piping of the same, all the six
divisions of the crown, fastening them at the top with a round button,
and put in a lining of wadding, stiffened muslin, and any dark coloured
silk; sew all these round the edge, and then put on the brim or peak:
this, when of cloth, is made of two pieces the same size and shape;
run them together at the edge on the wrong side, with a piping between
them, turn them to the right side, put in a piece of stiff muslin, and
a thin wadding, sew it on to the front of the cap at the edge, and
again half a nail above, so that, though it can be pulled down over the
eyes, it usually remains turned up, as in Fig. 57: the band behind,
with the ear-flaps, is then sewed on; this is a piece of cloth, with
a strip of dark fur or velvet laid on it, so that when the strings of
the ear-flaps are tied under the chin, the fur lies against the throat
and ears, and when not required, the strings are tied on the top of the
head, the velvet or fur forming a kind of trimming to the cap.
A LADY’S RIDING CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 59.
This is made of velvet, and is simply a straight piece, a yard long
and about eight nails deep, lined with flannel or wadding, buckram and
silk, which is joined up at the two ends, and gathered on the one side,
under a small flat silk or gold button, and on the other, into a velvet
band, one nail deep, and made to fit the head. A silk bow and tassel
(see Fig. 51) are put on at the top, and ribbon strings fasten under
the chin, or not, according to pleasure.
A TRAVELLING CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 60.
This is a soft cap, and is generally made of cloth. It is formed of a
circle, eight nails across, cut in eight parts, which are joined with
pipings of the same, and fastened at the top with a knot or tassel.
The crown is lined in a similar manner to Fig. 58, and the band, which
must have buckram within the lining of silk or soft leather, is firmly
stitched to it.
A NEAT BOY’S CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 61.
This is made of cloth or Holland. The top is a circle of five nails
across, the head-piece is nine nails long, and one nail and a half deep
when made up, it is plaited in very small exact folds, and therefore
before it is made up, it must be four nails and a half broad: the brim
or peak is of patent leather, and the strap under the chin of the same.
In making up, the top or crown must be wadded, stiffened with buckram,
and lined: the head-piece is then prepared, by being folded, and the
folds stitched upon a piece of stiff buckram, the proper length: the
crown is sewed to it, the peak and strap put on, as in the Plate.
A TRAVELLING CAP FOR GENTLEMEN OR LADIES.
PLATE 19. FIG. 62, 63.
This is a very simple, and at the same time, a very good looking cap:
it is made either of velvet, or of fine cloth, and when doubled, as in
Fig. 62, forms nearly a square.
To make it, put in a wadding and lining, join it up behind, A B, make a
string-case, A C, through which a silk cord must be run, which draws it
up to the shape of a cap, and trim it round the edge or brim with some
rich fur. The advantage of the string-case at the top is, that when not
in use, it will pack quite flatly and take up little room.
THE WORKING MAN’S CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 64, 65, 66.
Fold a sheet of common brown paper to make a workman’s cap, as follows:—
Let it be a square of ten nails, double it across like a
half-handkerchief, and crease it well; open it and cross it again the
other way, open it again, double down the middle one way, and crease
it well; on spreading it out, it will be marked according to the lines
in Fig. 65. Measure from the centre on the cross lines, about one nail
and three-quarters (see A B C D), next crease the paper from side to
side through these points, thus:—one line through A B, another through
C D, and again C A, and D B; this will form a square in the middle. Cut
out a nail square at every corner, as in Fig. 66.
In folding it up, the square, A B C D, in the centre, forms the top of
the cap, and the points, E F, are doubled according to the crosswise
plait, and crossed in front towards each other, the other points, G H,
are likewise crossed behind towards their opposite ends. The cap is
then formed by merely turning up a piece all round to make it stand
firmly. (Fig. 64.)
WOMEN’S BONNETS.
PLATE 20.
Bonnets being, like gowns, dependent in a great measure on the fancy
and whim of the day, will only be treated of as to the general modes of
making them up, and a few of the very plainest shapes given.
Bonnets are made of velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, book-muslin,
chip, gingham, and glazed calico.
The foundations are either pasteboard, buckram, stiff muslin, or willow.
Bonnets are kept in shape by means of wire, chip, or whalebone.
They are lined either with the material of which the bonnet is made, or
with some other, lighter or warmer, according to taste, and the time of
the year; but care must be taken that the colours either harmonize or
decidedly contrast. When the lining is white, a sheet of tissue paper
is put between it and the bonnet, whether it be of silk, or only of
straw; this makes the white material, whatever it may be, look a much
purer colour than it otherwise would do. A piece of demet or of thin
wadding should always be laid between the foundation and the silk, or
other material of which it is made, unless that material is very thick.
Bonnets may be lined with ribbon in the following manner:—
Take a piece similar to the trimming, and long enough to be run plainly
to the outer edge of the bonnet all round, the other side of the ribbon
is finely gathered, and being drawn up to the size of the inside of the
bonnet, it is neatly sewed to it, forming a kind of border or trimming.
When a bonnet is lined plainly, or the cross-way, it takes half a yard
cut crosswise. If a curtain is required in addition, three-quarters of
a yard, cut the straight way, must be purchased.
In fitting your lining, lay it across the bonnet, so that as little as
possible is wasted or cut off at the corner; put small pins all round
the edge, and the inside also, so as to keep it in its place, cutting
off the superfluous quantity and then sew it, concealing your stitches
as much as possible between the lining and the bonnet.
To line a bonnet the straight way, so that, though plain at the edge,
it is a little fulled or plaited into the crown, about three-quarters
of a yard is required, influenced of course in some degree, both by the
depth of the poke and its width. This lining is very easily put in; sew
it round the edge on the wrong side as far as the ears or rounded part
of the bonnet, by which means the stitches are quite concealed, then
turn it, and sew the rest as neatly as you can; the lining looks the
best plaited into the crown; to do this equally, begin in the middle,
making a perfectly straight fold, the rest on each side should incline
a little to the centre, and be very small and regular.
Bonnets may be trimmed in a great variety of ways with the material of
which they are made, cut crosswise and either hemmed or lined, so as to
form a kind of ribbon, with velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, gauze,
muslin, or ribbon.
[Illustration: PLATE 20.
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23
Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 25
Fig. 7 Fig. 8 9 Fig. 9 Fig. 24 Fig. 26
Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 27 Fig. 28
Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31
Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 16 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 36
Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 35 Fig. 40 Fig. 41
Fig. 45 Fig. 49 Fig. 51 Fig. 52 Fig. 39
Fig. 42 Fig. 46 Fig. 48 Fig. 53
Fig. 43 Fig. 44 Fig. 47 Fig. 50 Fig. 54]
Bows to be worn in front, or at the side, are generally made up and
sewed upon a piece of wire ribbon, which gives them firmness, and makes
them keep in their place and shape.
Velvet or plush trimmings are generally lined with satin or silk of the
same shade. The colour of the ribbon, if not an exact match with that
of the bonnet, should be darker.
Curtains may be made either of the material that lines the bonnet or
ribbon. For the former, the silk or satin is cut the cross-way, and is
from one nail and a half to two nails deep; it is hemmed at the edge,
and sometimes a straw plait or silk cord is laid on above the hem; they
may be either plaited on to the bonnet in large full plaits, or hemmed,
and a piece of ribbon, exactly the length that the curtain is to be,
run in; this looks better than the plaiting, and does not so soon
become flattened.
Ribbon curtains are made in two ways, the one by merely plaiting or
gathering a straight piece of ribbon, and hemming the ends; the other,
and much the prettiest method, is also the most complicated. Fold the
end of your ribbon down like a half-handkerchief, Fig. 13, and cut it
off, thus leaving a cross-way end; fold it again, straight down the
ribbon, measuring it so as to be doubled the same depth top and bottom,
thus forming a piece like Fig. 14: cut off a number of these pieces,
which must then be run very flatly together, so that the cross-way
parts of the ribbon are at the top and bottom, and the border or edge
lies in oblique or slanting lines across the curtain, Fig. 15, 16; one
end will be pointed or sloped outwards, in order to make the other like
it, the half square cut off at first, must be joined to it. The number
of pieces of course must depend on the breadth of the ribbon, the whole
curtain should be about three-quarters of a yard long; when the parts
are joined together, hem your curtain top and bottom, running a ribbon
in at the top, in order to full it properly to the bonnet.
OLD WOMAN’S BONNET.
PLATE 20. FIG. 1, 2, 3.
This is a comfortable shape for an old woman, and is very easily made.
It is in two pieces, the front or poke is made of pasteboard, covered
with silk or any dark coloured material. To cut the pattern of it,
take a piece of paper, four nails and a half square when folded (see
Fig. 2), let D be the doubled part, and round it off gradually at the
corner, A. The crown is cut out according to Fig. 3.
SCALE.
+----------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From
B to C the doubled part | 8 | | From B to G | 8½ | | From G to F
| 2 | | From F to E | 4 | | Then slope gradually to C from E | |
+----------------------------------+--------+ */
In making up, having previously cut out two pieces the proper size to
cover the poke, one for the outside, and one for the lining, run them
together on the wrong side, round that part which is to form the edge
of the bonnet, leaving open that which is to be sewed to the crown, and
slip the pasteboard into it: then begin the crown, Fig. 3, hem it at
the bottom and make a runner from F E to H, and another, one nail or
one nail and half above it, and put in a string; set the front of the
crown, C E, on to the poke, either in gathers or small plaits, draw up
the runners behind to the proper size to fit the head, and fasten them;
sew each end of the curtain a little way on the ends of the poke as in
the Plate; put a ribbon on across the front, and strings, with a bow at
the top; one may be added behind, at pleasure.
BONNET FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 4, 5, 6.
These bonnets are made of black, white, grey, or fawn coloured silk.
They are cut out as follows:—
For the pattern of the poke, Fig. 6, let your paper be doubled at D,
which part must be four nails and a half long; from A to B is three
nails and three-quarters; slope off the front at the corner. For the
crown, Fig. 5, let the doubled part, D, be eight nails long, and from C
to E is four nails and a half; it is gradually sloped from F, as in the
Plate.
In making up, run the pieces cut for the outside and lining together
at the edge, on the wrong side, and having turned them, slip in the
pasteboard; plait the front of the crown into the poke in very small
exact folds, leaving it quite plain for some distance above the ears;
make a narrow runner behind of one nail and a half in depth, to form a
curtain, and put on ribbon strings the same colour as the bonnet.
A NEAT BONNET FOR A SERVANT.
PLATE 20. FIG. 7, 8, 9.
To cut out the poke of this bonnet, Fig. 8, which is of pasteboard,
take a doubled piece of paper, five nails wide, by four nails and a
half long, letting D be the doubled part.
SCALE.
+-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 2 | |
From A to F | 1 | | From the corner to E | 3 | | Above the corner to C
| 2¼ | +-----------------------+--------+ */
Curve from B to C, slope from C to E, round from E to F.
The foundation of the crown, Fig. 9, is of buckram, or willow; let
your doubled paper be three nails and a half wide, by four nails and a
quarter long; D is the doubled part.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the corner to C
| 2¾ | | From the corner to H | 2¼ | | From the corner to I | 1½ | | J
above the corner | 1 | +----------------------+--------+ */
Curve from G to H, cut from H to I, and from I to J.
The circular top or patch, is cut to fit the bonnet.
In making up, cover each part with silk, laying a thin piece of
wadding between the silk and the foundation, then sew them very firmly
together, with strong silk or waxed thread, and put a Persian or muslin
lining in the crown. Silk cut the cross-way and laid in moderate sized
plaits may be folded round the crown of the bonnet, which has a very
neat appearance. The more simply it is trimmed, the better it looks; a
ribbon across, to form strings, and one bow behind or at the side, is
quite sufficient.
A SCHOOL GIRL’S BONNET.
PLATE 20. FIG. 10, 11, 12.
To cut out the poke, Fig. 11, when laid open, let your paper be eight
nails wide, by seven long.
SCALE.
+-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to S is | 3¾ |
| From S to B | 2½ | | From T to C | 4 | | Above the corner to E | 1½ |
| From the side to F | 1 | | From the top to F | 2¼ | | From Z to Y |
3½ | +-----------------------+--------+ */
Cut from F to E, round from F to C, and from C, through Y, and B, to A,
curve A Z F.
The crown or head-piece, Fig. 12, is thus formed; let your paper be six
nails wide, by seven nails and a half long.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From H to G
| 2¼ | | From the corner to G | ¾ | | From the corner to K |
2½ | | J is from the corner | 1 | | From the corner to I | 2 |
+----------------------+--------+ */
Slope G to K, shape according to the Plate from K to J, cut from J to
I, curve from I to H.
The top or circle is cut exactly to fit this crown.
This bonnet is made of glazed calico; the poke is of pasteboard. If
many of them are required, it is the best economy to cut out all the
pokes at once, and then all the crowns, as they will fit into each
other. Make it up as follows:—
After joining the two ends of the head-piece, wire and sew the circle
into it, then tack the calico on the crown or circle; then tack a piece
of calico outside the head-piece, piping it up the joinings; run on the
lining of the poke, after which the outside cover is put on and tacked
strongly at the edge; the trimming will conceal the stitches; sew the
trimming, which is merely a cross-way hem one nail deep and piped to
the inside of the edge of the poke with small stitches, then turn it
over on the outside and sew it neatly down to the upper calico, taking
care not to go through the pasteboard. Fasten the poke to the crown,
and then put in the lining, making it to draw, and sewing it on the
inside. The trimming, piping and bow, are all cut the cross-way; the
strings are half a yard long, cut straight. One bonnet takes one sheet
of 3_d._ pasteboard, and about one yard and a half of 4_d._ glazed
calico, including the trimming; with the wire it comes to 9_d._ prime
cost.
For winter wear, it is desirable to line both poke and crown with
wadding or flannel.
A neat simple trimming for children’s bonnets, is made as follows:—
Cut strips of glazed calico, one nail wide, fold them so that the raw
edges shall lie at the back; making each strip somewhat less than half
a nail broad, and then with a long needleful of coloured thread, run on
the right side of it, up and down in vandykes; when done, draw it up,
and it forms a pretty sort of edging.
OILED SILK HOODS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 17, 18.
These hoods are convenient for persons who travel much, or go
excursions in open carriages, as a protection against rain; they are
made of oiled silk, either black, or light coloured, the former looks
best.
The shape is very simple, the hood consisting of four parts: the front
is a straight piece, one yard long, and six nails and a half broad. The
horse-shoe, Fig. 18, which is rather a different shape to the usual
one, is six nails and a half long, four nails wide at the top, and five
nails at the bottom; the curtain or tippet is half a yard deep, and one
yard and three-quarters long; the band is one nail broad, ten nails
long.
In making up, the head-piece is run to the horse-shoe quite plainly,
and the front, or part round the face is hemmed or bound; it is then
set into the band, the horse-shoe being plainly put in, and the rest
plaited in small folds; the curtain is sewed on in small plaits all
round, the band lined with silk or ribbon, and a large hook and eye or
chain is put on. The curtain is either hemmed or bound all round.
CALÈCHE.
PLATE 20. FIG. 19, 20.
These are worn by ladies who walk short distances to evening parties,
and are better than a bonnet as they do not crush or disturb the cap or
head dress.
A calèche is best made of dark silk or satin, and lined with the same
colour; it is in three parts. The front, or head-piece, is seven nails
and a half wide, and one yard long; the horse-shoe, Fig. 19, is five
nails and a half long by four nails and a half broad, at the widest
part, sloped down to four nails at the bottom; the curtain is one yard
and a quarter long, and one nail and a half deep. A lining is cut out
exactly similar to the outside; and it is made up as follows:—
Run the edges of the head-piece and lining together on the wrong side,
and turn them, put in a piece of whalebone the whole length of the
front, viz:—one yard, about half a quarter of a nail broad, and run
on the other side of it, to secure it, leave a space of one nail and
a half broad, and make a runner the proper width to receive a second
whalebone, and then, leaving the same distances, make runners for two
more; the spaces between are quilted, as in the Plate, to give a little
firmness to the whole.
Between the fourth whalebone and the outer edge is an interval of two
nails and a half, and this is not quilted like the rest. The horse-shoe
is then made, the outside and lining being run together, a whalebone
is put in, (see Fig. 19), at the edge, and again another, one nail
within. The head-piece is then gathered (the rough edges of both the
satin and lining being turned within, so as to make it perfectly neat
at the inside), and sewed to the horse-shoe, the fulness being chiefly
towards the top. It is then gathered at the neck, and bound with
ribbon, or a piece of the same material, which form a string-case; and
the curtain is set on, lined or not, according to pleasure. A ribbon,
about one yard long, is sewn on the front of the calèche, three nails
from the bottom on each side, forming a kind of loop, by which to hold
it forward when it is worn.
CLOAKS.
PLATE 20.
Cloaks may be made of satin, silk, cloth, merino, shawling, both the
real and the imitation, Scotch-plaid, Orleans or common stuff. The
choice of materials is of course influenced by the purpose for which
the cloak is intended to be used; for instance, carriage or travelling
cloaks are plain of a thicker substance, and have less work in them
than those used for walking in.
Satin cloaks have frequently a velvet cape or collar, sometimes they
are trimmed with broad velvet hems, laid on all round, or with fur, and
occasionally lined with fur also. Silk and merino cloaks may likewise
be trimmed with velvet, cut or uncut, plush or fur, and lined with the
same, or they may be made perfectly plain. As a silk cloak is at all
times a costly article of dress, and, with care, will last a long time,
it is worth while to have the silk a very good one; it should be soft
and rich, not liable to crease: levantine, satinette, or satin silk,
are the best; and the colour should be one that will not easily fly,
change, or spot; dark shades generally look the best, as black, violet,
myrtle-green, or deep marone.
Satin, silk, and fine merino cloaks should be lined with sarsenet,
either the same colour, or some well chosen contrast: but as these
sarsenet linings cost a good deal for a full sized cloak, two old silk
gowns, nicely picked to pieces, and either washed or dyed, would be a
good substitute, where economy is an object: when this is done, it is a
good plan to turn a deep hem of the outside silk over the edge, on each
side in front, or it is better still to let the two front breadths of
the lining be of new silk.
Cloaks may either be simply lined with a piece of flannel between the
silk and the lining, which makes them light and suitable for walking
in the autumn and the spring, or they may be lined and wadded; this
is done by laying breadths either of thin flannel or lining muslin,
cut the same size as the breadths of silk on a table, and placing upon
them sheets of wadding, so as to cover them entirely; then with a long
needleful of thread, the wadding should be tacked or basted in wide
stitches backwards and forwards in sort of vandykes upon the muslin or
flannel, in order that it may always keep in its place, which otherwise
it would not do. The flannel with the wadding thus sewed to it, is then
put between the two silks and the seams run up.
LADY’S SILK CLOAK.
PLATE 20. FIG. 21.
It consists of six breadths of silk, the proper length to fit the
person for whom it is made, i. e. from the collar-bone to the top of
the shoe. Cut a shoulder-piece the shape of Fig. 1, or 4, Plate 13,
making it to fit, with flannel and silk lining to suit; next cut a
collar, Fig. 7, Plate 13, with a stiff muslin and silk lining; then cut
the cape, Fig. 15 and 16, Plate 13, with only a silk lining.
In making up, having laid the lining and wadding together as described
above, run up the seams; cut the arm-holes one nail and a half from the
seam between the first and second breadths, and two nails and a quarter
below the shoulder-piece; each arm-hole is three nails and a quarter
long.
The shoulder-piece is next made, by running the silk and lining
together, with the wadding and flannel between them on the wrong side,
and then turning it to the other; the three back breadths of the skirt
are then hollowed out to fit the shoulder-piece, next full the whole
into the shoulder-piece, letting the two front breadths, reach to the
shoulder only, while the rest is sewed to the back. A hem one nail and
three-quarters deep of cross-way velvet, cut or uncut, or an edging of
fur may be put on, up the fronts according to pleasure. The back is
then plaited in behind, at a proper distance below the shoulder-piece,
to suit the waist, say four nails, and a band long enough to go round
the waist is laid upon these folds, and drawn through two large
button-holes, one at each end of the plaiting; this band hooks or
buttons in front, inside the cloak. Another way of confining it at the
waist, is, by laying a ribbon along the inside of the back breadth, at
the proper distance from the top, thus forming a kind of string-case,
through which two ribbons are passed, fastened at one end, and drawn
out at the other, of the runner; these ribbons tie round the waist at
the inside. The collar having previously been lined, is then set on,
and small pieces, three nails and a quarter long and half a nail broad,
are lined, piped all round, and sewed on one side of each arm-hole,
so as to lay over and cover it when the arms are not in. The cloak is
fastened at the throat either by long silk cords the same colour, with
tassels at the ends, or by a gilt or bronze chain.
The capes of these cloaks are frequently made loose from them, in which
case they may be worn separately as mantles or short cloaks; when they
are fastened on, they are sewed to the shoulder-piece.
LADY’S MANTELET OR SHORT CLOAK.
PLATE 20. FIG. 22.
These are made of velvet, satin, silk, cloth, merino or shawling; they
are lined with silk, muslin, or glazed calico, and trimmed with lace,
fringe, velvet, satin or fur; they are very convenient and light for
walking, or going out in an evening. A mantelet reaches to a little
above the knee, and fastens in the front with hooks and eyes; it is
made exactly like the cape of a large cloak, with five breadths in it,
a little hollowed round the neck, and set into a band, or a collar
turned over.
LARGE CARRIAGE CLOAK OR ROQUELAURE.
PLATE 20. FIG. 23.
Used by ladies in an open carriage, to put on in case of rain. It is
made of plaid or some woollen material, and consists of five breadths
of eleven nails wide, and one yard and a half long; two arm-holes are
made five nails from the top of the cloak, and five nails long, to
these arm-holes are sewed loose sleeves, eight nails long, and four
nails wide, when sewed up; they are merely attached to the cloak by
being sewed to the top of the arm-hole, so that they may be put on,
or left to hang down at pleasure. The cloak is lined with flannel and
glazed calico, or calimanco, it is set into a band at the neck, of
about ten nails long, and a collar and one or more deep capes put on.
It fastens at the throat with a gilt or bronze chain.
LADY’S NEAT GARDEN OR SERVANT’S CLOAK.
PLATE 20. FIG. 24.
This may be made either of merino or Scotch-plaid; if the former, it
has three breadths in it, of seventeen nails wide; if the latter, it
requires five breadths, eleven nails wide.
The shoulder-piece is like Fig. 3 or 4, Plate 13; it is lined and
wadded, as are also two capes the same shape as the shoulder-piece cut
larger; the collar is like Fig. 7, Plate 13. The whole cloak is lined
with black or coloured glazed calico; arm-holes are left between the
first and second breadths; they are four nails long, and three nails
and a half from the bottom of the shoulder-piece; a small piece of the
material, four nails long and three-quarters of a nail wide, lined and
piped all round, is set on along each slit or arm-hole.
These cloaks can be purchased ready-made at the mercer’s shop, and are
from 9s. to 18s. each.
OLD WOMAN’S CLOAK AND HOOD.
PLATE 20. FIG. 25, 27.
These are generally made of scarlet cloth, or grey duffel, and have
only one breadth in them. The cloth is about three yards wide, and it
is cut as follows:—
The width of the cloak is made in that of the material, therefore, when
the proper length for the cloak is cut off the piece (say one yard and
eight nails), it is doubled exactly in half the width, and then the
selvages being laid together, they are sloped off at the top, perhaps
from four to five nails gradually to about four nails above the bottom;
the two corners in front are also rounded off at the bottom, so that a
great part of it, as well as the two fronts are slightly on the cross,
which renders binding or hemming not absolutely necessary, though the
cloak looks much better when finished with a neat binding of scarlet or
black ribbon; the top is set into a band the proper length to go round
the neck, and a few plaits are made.
When two cloaks are cut out together, which is the most economical
plan, the hoods will come out of the sloping at the neck, but this
cannot be, if there is only one.
The hood is very simple, and is thus formed. Cut a paper pattern of
half the hood, exactly like Fig. 27, and lay it on the cloth, taking
care that D is upon the doubled part of it. In making it up, it is
gathered or plaited from the top, or doubled part to A; the rest to B,
is simply sewed up; B to C, is the part attached to the cloak, and the
front, or what goes round the face, is neatly bound with ribbon. These
hoods may be lined or not, at pleasure.
SCHOOL GIRL’S CAPE OR CLOAK.
PLATE 20. FIG. 26.
These are made of plaid or other stuff, lined with flannel and calico,
and are good things for school girls to wear at church and elsewhere.
SCALE.
+---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ |
———————— | 1st. | 2nd. | 3rd. | 4th. | | | Size | Size | Size | Size
| +---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+
| |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| |Usual width of plaid | 11 |
12 | | | |Number of breadths | 2½ | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Depth to
be cut down the selvage | 8 | 10 | 12 | 13 | |Collar like
Fig. 7, Plate 13, | | | | | | cut according to size | | | | |
+---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ */
The skirt of the cloak having been lined with coarse flannel and glazed
calico, and the shoulder-piece being piped all round with a pretty
thick piping, the skirt is plaited evenly to the shoulder-piece in
handsome plaits, and the flannel being laid against it, the calico
linings are neatly felled down over the plaits, so as to hide the rough
edges; the collar, lined also with flannel and calico, is sewed on, and
a piece of tape or strong calico laid upon the part where it joins the
shoulder-piece at the top. A button is put on at the throat, on the
right hand side, and another, four nails below, and small squares of
plaid doubled, with each a button-hole made in them, put to correspond
on the other side.
By lengthening the skirt, this would make a very suitable cloak for a
woman.
A more economical cloak, of this pattern, may be made of green baize;
without a collar, it costs very little, but of course it does not wear
nearly so well as the plaid ones.
BOY’S CLOAK.
A cloak or deep cape for a boy, may be made very simply as follows:—
Cut a large circle of cloth or plaid, the size you wish the cloak to
be, and in the centre of it, make a smaller circle for the neck; cut
from this small circle to the edge in a straight line, which will form
the opening in front. Gather or plait the neck into a broad band, and
it is completed. A cloak thus made will hang in full handsome folds,
and be very warm.
SHAWLS.
Shawls may be made of various materials, velvet, plush, silk, cloth,
duffel, plaid, or printed flannel, and they may either be square or in
the form of a half-handkerchief; they are variously lined and trimmed,
according to taste and circumstances.
CARRIAGE OR DRESS SHAWL.
This is either velvet, plush, or satin, and is half a square of one
yard, twelve nails, or less, to suit the figure of the person, and the
width of the material. It is lined with white or coloured sarsenet, and
trimmed at the edge of the two straight sides, with a satin or silk
hem, from one to one nail and a half deep, cut crosswise, lace, fringe,
or fur.
LADY’S WALKING SHAWL.
Silk, cloth, or merino, are equally appropriate for this purpose. It
may either be a square of one yard, twelve nails, or half of it, and
is lined with silk. When the whole square is preferred, and when a hem
of velvet, satin, or silk is laid on, care must be taken to arrange it
so that when the shawl is doubled handkerchief-wise, the hems of both
folds shall be seen at the same time, one lying nearly over the other,
for which purpose, after laying the border on two successive sides
of the square, turn your shawl over before sewing the border of the
remaining two sides on. Thus half the trimming is on one, and half on
the other side of the shawl.
These shawls, like the one mentioned above, may be trimmed in various
ways.
SHAWL FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.
This is a square of about one yard, twelve nails, and is made either
of fine white, or very pale drab, grey, or other quiet coloured cloth,
with a satin ribbon, the same shade and one nail broad, laid on all
round it. It may be lined or not, according to pleasure.
QUILTED SHAWL.
This is half a square of silk of about one yard, twelve nails, and has
a very neat appearance, besides being both light and warm. It is thus
made:—
Lay wadding, demet, or flannel between the outside silk and the lining,
which should be either white or some pretty suitable colour: it must
then be run in three or four rows round the edge, and the middle
quilted in diamonds, or any other pattern, according to taste.
CASHMERE SHAWL.
Purchase a piece of coloured Cashmere or Indiana, one yard, six nails
square, to form the centre of the shawl, and make a very narrow hem all
round it; then take shawl bordering, or four strips of Cashmere of some
other colour, which will harmonize, or contrast well with the centre;
these should be from two to three nails broad, and one yard, twelve
nails long; they are likewise hemmed on both sides, and then sewed to
the square; the corners are joined obliquely, or from point to point.
A fringe should be set on all round. This coloured border must be put
on, so that when the shawl is worn, the two corners shall fall properly
over each other, as described in the “Lady’s Walking Shawl.” Coloured
gimp is sometimes laid on over the joinings.
MOURNING SHAWLS.
These may be made in two ways, according to the depth of the mourning.
The first and deepest kind is half a square of black silk, entirely
covered with black crape, and lined with black sarsenet.
The other is also a half square of rich, but not very bright black
silk, with a hem of crape from one to two nails deep, laid on the two
straight sides.
PLAIN WALKING SHAWL.
This may be made of plaid, printed flannel, or duffel, and is suitable
for ladies, children, and servants.
Cut half a square of the proper size, line it with silk, or calico,
and run it at about one nail from the edge, on the two straight sides,
so as to keep it flat, and make a sort of hem: this shawl is made to
fit the neck, for this end, instead of hollowing it out, run on the
cross-way part in the centre, a little string-case, in a semi-circular
form, and by passing a ribbon through, it is drawn up to fit the neck,
making a sort of frill or standing up collar. This shawl is plaited
in at the bottom of the waist, and strings, or a band sewed on at the
inside.
Arm-holes may also be made in it at pleasure.
TRAVELLING SHAWL.
A warm shawl or handkerchief for travelling, may be made of a square of
wadding doubled in half, and covered with silk or muslin.
SPENCERS.
PLATE 20.
Spencers are made of silk, cloth, muslin, and print, and are worn with
low frocks, by children, to walk out in.
PLAIN SPENCER.
PLATE 20. FIG. 28, 29.
From its simplicity, this is suited to very young children, as well as
to school girls, or young servants.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| ———————— | 1st. |Child of |
| | Size. |4 years. |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of the body, | | |
| cut width-wise of the material | 12 | 15 |
|Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 3 | 3½ |
|When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 1 | 1½ |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1¼ | 1½ |
|Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ½ | ½ |
|Width of sleeve | 4 | 6 |
|Length of ditto | 4 | 6 |
|Neck hollowed out | ¼ | ¼ |
|Length of band or collar | 6 | 6 |
|Depth of ditto | 1 | 1 |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| ———————— |Child of| Girl of |
| |6 years.| 12 yrs. |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| | Nails. |Yds. nls.|
|Length of the body, | 16 | 1 5 |
| cut width-wise of the material | 16 | 1 5 |
|Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 4 | 5 |
|When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 2 | 2 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1¾ | 2¼ |
|Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ¾ | ¾ |
|Width of sleeve | 8 | 8 |
|Length of ditto | 8 | 10 |
|Neck hollowed out | ½ | ½ |
|Length of band or collar | 8 | 9 |
|Depth of ditto | 1½ | 2 |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
In making, sew up the shoulders, make up the sleeves, and set them in,
a little fulled at the top. Make a string-case at the wrist at about
half or three-quarters of a nail from the bottom of the sleeve, which,
when drawn, forms a frill. Gather it equally into the band or collar;
for stout children, small gussets may be put in the neck. It is either
hemmed or set into a band at the bottom; sometimes a frill is sewed on
round the waist, sometimes the spencer is cut one nail longer to admit
of a runner being put one nail above the bottom, so as to form a frill.
DRESS SPENCER.
PLATE 20. FIG. 30, 31.
This is a very pretty shape for ladies’ children, but as it must be
cut out to fit the figure, only one size, for a child from two to four
years old, will be given. It may be made of kerseymere, cloth, cambric,
or jaconet muslin.
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+
| | Yds. nls. |
|Length of body, width-way of the material | 1 0 |
|Depth of body cut down the selvage | 2 |
|When doubled in four, slit for the arm-hole | 2 |
|Cut into the material for the arm-hole | ¾ |
|For collar, see Plate 13, Fig. 17 | |
|For sleeves, see Plate 12, Fig. 1 | |
|Length of band | 10 |
|Depth of ditto | 1 |
|Length of robing, from the back over the shoulder | |
| to the front | 12 |
|Smallest width of ditto | ½ |
|Greatest width of ditto | 2 |
|For shoulder-piece, see Plate 13, Fig. 5 | |
+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+
In making up, supposing the spencer to be of cambric muslin, sew
a piece of strong insertion-work to the backs and front of the
shoulder-piece, simply hemming that part of it which goes over the
shoulder; full the body evenly into the insertion-work, both before
and behind, leaving it perfectly plain under the arm-holes; the sleeve
is next gathered into the shoulder-piece, and sewed plainly into the
arm-hole; the body is next fulled into the band. In the band, on each
side behind, is a little runner of about two nails from the ends,
through which a bobbin is run, which comes out through an oylet-hole,
at about a quarter of a nail from the end; it fastens also with a
button or with hooks and eyes: up the backs of both shoulder-pieces
and body a broad hem is made, in which are buttons and button-holes to
correspond. The robings are next put on, a little fulled at the back
and front, and a good deal over the shoulders: the robing at the back
is sewed immediately below the insertion-work; it is one nail and a
half deep, which increases to its fullest breadth over the shoulders,
and is gradually narrowed off again to the band in front. The collar,
which is trimmed with neat work or a frill, is then set on. The sleeves
are made and put in.
TIPPET AND SLEEVES.
PLATE 20. FIG. 32, 33, 34, 35.
These are very convenient for children to wear in the summer, as they
are easily put off and on. They are made of jaconet or cambric muslin,
gingham, or print, to suit the frock.
To cut the front, Fig. 33, let your paper be five nails and
three-quarters long, and three nails and three-quarters wide, when
folded in two. D is the doubled part.
SCALE.
+-----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the corner to L | 2 |
| Above the corner to T | 1 |
| From the side to V | ½ |
| From the top to V | ¾ |
| From the corner to S | 1¾ |
| From S to Z | 1½ |
| From Z to N | ¾ |
+-----------------------+--------+
Curve from L to T, again from T to V; cut from V to S; slope from S to
N. The part marked N, is for the neck; S V, for the shoulder; V T, the
flap or shoulder-piece.
For the back, Fig. 35, let your paper be three nails wide and four
nails long.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the bottom to A | 1¼ |
| From B to C | ¾ |
| From C to F | 2 |
| Leaving to G | 1 |
| From H to K | 1 |
+----------------------+--------+
Cut from H to A; slope from A to B; cut from B to F; curve from F to
half a nail below G; N is the neck; S the shoulder.
For the little flap or shoulder-piece, Fig. 32, take a piece of paper,
letting it be one nail and three-quarters long, when doubled, and one
nail and a half deep; at the opposite side to the doubled part, mark
the point A one quarter of a nail from the side, and one-third of a
nail from the bottom; cut in a straight line from the top to A, and
slope gradually from A to the bottom.
In making up, sew the shoulders of the two backs to those of the front,
set in the two shoulder-flaps, fulling them in the middle, gather the
front into the space of one nail, setting it into a band, which is
about one-third of a nail, when doubled, and nine nails long, made to
button behind; the backs are also gathered, and sewed to the band at
each end, at a proper distance, say about three nails from the middle.
The Plate represents the tippet as if the sides were not attached to
the band, observe, however, that the bottom, A, is to be sewed to the
part marked B, of the band. On the top of the tippet is set a collar,
according to fancy; Fig. 19, Plate 13, is that generally preferred.
Sleeves cut according to Fig. 1, Plate 12, are then made; they are
set into a band at the top, and then sewed on to the fullest part or
middle, under the flap, for the space of half a nail.
These tippets may be trimmed with braid, if made of cloth or
kerseymere; when they are of muslin, with narrow work or edging.
NECK HANDKERCHIEFS.
Many persons wear net or muslin handkerchiefs within their dress,
and under the collar or habit-shirt, and for those liable to be soon
heated, or who are engaged in warm or dusty employments, it is a
particularly good plan to do so, especially if the dress is not of
a washing material, as it keeps the body clean and nice much longer
than it otherwise could be. Elderly persons should always wear these
handkerchiefs, as there is something delicate and cleanly in their
having what will wash next the skin.
Muslin handkerchiefs may be purchased, woven for the purpose, with
borders, at from about 6_d._ to 2_s._, but the cheap ones are not worth
buying, they soon tear in the washing, and look thick and cottony; the
fine ones are so costly that it is better economy to have squares of
muslin cut from the piece; these, like the bordered ones, may either be
worn double, or the square may be cut in two, which most people prefer.
The muslin should be yard wide, not very coarse, nor yet extremely
fine, if wanted for common wear, but a thin transparent muslin should
be selected; that which is called India book, having a yellowish white
cast, is preferable to the blue muslins, which are apt to look heavy
and clothy when washed. Real India muslin is the best, but it is too
costly for general wear.
The extreme points of the half square should be cut off, or turned up,
which is a good plan for the back, as it makes it stronger; and after
hemming the handkerchief all round, a tape is set on behind, to go
round the waist and tie in front.
For net handkerchiefs, the best width of the net is from one yard
and two nails to one yard and four nails; it should be of a medium
fineness, not too close, or it will lose its clearness after washing.
In making net handkerchiefs, it is a good plan to run a hem of book
muslin, of about half or a quarter of a nail broad, on the two straight
sides, which prevents the handkerchief running up in the washing; on
the cross side, of course, a narrow hem is made, as the muslin would
shew in the wearing, and would look untidy. The points should be cut
off, and a tape sewed on behind.
Net handkerchiefs are, on the whole, more economical than muslin, as
they wear longer.
POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS.
These are made of French cambric, fine lawn, Scotch cambric, cotton,
or silk; the former are chiefly worn by ladies, and the latter by
gentlemen; lawn and Scotch cambric are used by young persons and
children; cotton handkerchiefs are confined to the working classes.
Ladies’ pocket handkerchiefs are usually eleven or twelve nails square;
they are purchased woven on purpose with borders. Sometimes very fine
cambric may be procured eleven nails wide, which many persons prefer to
the bordered handkerchiefs; these are often made with broad hems, half
or three-quarters of a nail deep, and a row of open veining worked at
the bottom of the hem, or a narrow edging of lace is sewed all round.
Cambric handkerchiefs for gentlemen are larger than those for ladies,
say fourteen or fifteen nails.
Gentlemen’s silk handkerchiefs should be of India silk, and are about
5_s._ 6_d._ each; they are far preferable to British silk, as they
are much softer, and keep the dye to the very last. British silk
handkerchiefs should be dipped in gall the first time they are washed.
Printed cotton handkerchiefs, for poor children, may be bought at a
penny and even a halfpenny each.
BRIDAL FAVOURS.
The customs respecting favours and bridal paraphernalia differ so much
in different places, that no general rules can be given respecting them.
Sometimes white ribbons, gloves, and handkerchiefs are given, and
sometimes only the former. Favours for the higher orders are usually
of lace, flowers, silver ribbon, or cord, and those for the middling
classes, of satin ribbon; they are worn on the left side. The usual
quantity given to servants, both men and women, coachmen, &c. is three
yards, which is worn as a trimming for either the cap or bonnet by the
women, and made up into very large bows for the men, to pin on their
coats.
SHOES AND SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20.
No shoes will be here described but such as are soft, and therefore
easily made at home, or those worn by children.
Slippers may be made of velvet, silk, cloth, kerseymere, carpet,
wrap-rascal, or frieze, and worked canvass, any of these materials,
together with ticking, having a pattern worked on it, may be used for
children’s shoes.
Cut a paper pattern of half the shoe, as follows, according to the size
required. Fig. 42.
SCALE FOR ALL SIZES.
+-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+
| | Man. | Woman. | Girl of | Child of |
| | | | 9 or 10 | 5 or 6 |
| | | | yrs. | yrs. |
+-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of paper | 5¼ | 4¾ | 3½ | 3 |
|Width of ditto | 2 | 1¾ | 1¼ | 1⅛ |
|Size from A to the bottom| 1¼ | 1⅛ | ⅞ | ⅞ |
|Size from B to the bottom| ¾ | ⅔ | ⅜ | ⅜ |
|From the side to B | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ | ⅛ |
|From the corner to C | 2 | 2 | 1½ | 1½ |
|From C to E | 3¼ | 2¾ | 2 | 1½ |
|From E to F | 1⅛ | 1 | ⅞ | ¾ |
|From F to H | 3 | 2½ | 1⅞ | 1½ |
|From H to G | ½ | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ |
|From G to I |a bare nl.| ½ | ⅜ | ½ |
|From F to the side | ⅛ | ⅛ | ⅛ | ⅛ |
+-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+
Cut from I to A, and again from A to B; curve from B to C, cut from F
to H; H to G being only a slit; cut off from G to I; from I to A is the
doubled part.
MEN’S SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 42.
These may be made of carpet, cloth and frieze, or wrap-rascal.
In cutting them out, the material should be doubled at D; these
slippers should be lined with flannel, and either silk or cloth; the
linings are tacked to the outside, and the three bound together all
round with silk ferreting or binding; the sole is of strong leather or
pasteboard, if the latter, it is put between two pieces of carpeting or
cloth, as no needle is strong enough to go through it, and the edges of
these pieces being bound round, the sole thus formed is attached to the
slipper.
It is, however, better in general that men’s slippers should be made by
a shoe-maker, as it is hard work for women.
LADIES’ SLIPPERS.
There are many neat and ornamental ways of making ladies’ slippers, or
toilette shoes; the following are the most generally approved:—
Canvass, worked in tent or cross-stitch, silk, jean, or print quilted,
cloth, or soft leather, braided or embroidered.
Care should be taken that the braid is very fine and flat; gold or
silver twist may be sewed at the edge of it, which improves the effect
very much.
When made up, these slippers should be lined with flannel, or wadding,
and silk, and bound round with silk binding or galloon. A pasteboard
sole, put between two pieces of thick cloth, or carpet, is bound round,
and sewed to the upper part of the shoe, and a warm lining of flannel,
or fleecy hosiery, put upon it, on the inside. A trimming of fur is
sewed round the edge.
QUILTED SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 43.
Some of these are made of strong silk, with a silk lining and soft
flannel between; they are quilted all over in vandykes, octagons, or
diamonds.
Some are made so as to wash, and look very well, if the material is of
blue, or any lively coloured print or jean. They should be lined with
flannel and good strong calico; the whole is then quilted together,
with thread or coloured silk. The initials of the owner may be worked
in button-hole or chain-stitch, on the top or side of the slipper; it
is slit down in the front, for about three-quarters of a nail, and the
two sides of the slit, as well as the whole shoe, bound with ribbon;
purple galloon is the best, if it suits the prints, as it washes well.
A string is made to draw from about the middle of each side, which ties
in the front.
LADIES’ SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 44, 46, 50.
This slipper is in two parts, the back and the front, which is by some
persons considered an advantage, and it certainly enables it to be cut
out with more economy.
Fig. 44 represents the back-piece when doubled.
SCALE.
+------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Greatest length of back-piece | 6½ |
| Shortest length of ditto | 6 |
| Width of ditto | 1⅛ |
| Depth of front-piece, when doubled | 1¾ |
| Width of ditto | 3 |
| From A to B | 2½ |
| From B to C | ¾ |
| From C to the bottom | ¾ |
| From F to the side | ½ |
| From F to G | 1 |
| From H to A | ½ |
| From the bottom to E | ¾ |
+------------------------------------+--------+
Cut from B to C, from C to E, from E to F, and from G to H.
This shoe is made like those described before, excepting that, being in
two pieces, the ends of the back-piece, S S, Fig. 44, are bound as well
as the top and bottom of it, and the corresponding parts, E F, of Fig.
46, being bound also, they are sewed together very securely with strong
silk.
TRAVELLING OR OVER-SHOES.
These are useful to wear on a journey, or to put over dress shoes, to
keep the feet warm in going out to dinner, &c. They are very easily
made.
Cut out the shape of the slipper (see Fig. 42), in frieze or
wrap-rascal, and also a lining of soft flannel, and of silk; tack the
linings to the outside, and then bind them round with silk-ferretting
the colour of the wrap-rascal; make a sole of the material, bind it
also round, and sew them altogether; then cut out a sole of strong
millboard, which must be covered with thick flannel, and as this is
too hard for the needle to pass through, it must be tied down within
the sole of the slipper, by means of a halfpenny ribbon passed through
holes made at the toe and heel, which must be so contrived as to secure
it effectually.
LADY OR GENTLEMAN’S HALF SLIPPER.
PLATE 20. FIG. 45.
There is also a manner of making a slipper by merely sewing on a front
to a sole, and leaving it without any back-piece at all, as shewn in
the Plate.
CARRIAGE SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 49.
These are particularly desirable for invalids, especially on long
journies. They consist of a mat, or small rug, either of sheep-skin,
or worked in rug stitch; upon this are sewed two large morocco shoes,
without soles, which are lined with soft flannel, or fleecy hosiery,
and trimmed round the top with fur, the rug itself acting as soles to
the slippers, which should be large enough to admit of any person’s
foot.
BABY’S FIRST SHOES.
PLATE 20. FIG. 51, 52, 53, 54.
These look very well made of crimson cloth, with soles of black cloth,
or they may be of silk or satin, quilted. The shoe is in two parts,
each of which is lined with flannel, and bound with crimson ribbon,
which is stitched on very neatly; between the cloth and the flannel of
the sole, is laid one of pliable leather, to give it a little firmness.
The front part, Fig. 51, is first sewed on to the sole (see Fig. 54),
after which, the back, Fig. 52, is put on, and being so cut as to
overlap the front, oylet-holes are made at A, Fig. 54, and at E, Fig.
52, through which a ribbon is passed, which serves at once to tie the
shoe, and to keep the front and back of it together; the sides not
being sewed up at all.
BABY’S SECOND SHOES.
PLATE 20. FIG. 47.
This is made of soft velveteen, strong jean, or thick cloth, lined with
fine calico. It is cut all in one piece, as follows:—let your paper for
the pattern be two nails and a half long, and one deep.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the top to A | ⅓ |
| From the side to A | ¾ |
| From the bottom to B | ⅓ |
| From the corner to C | ½ |
| From the bottom to E | ¾ |
| From the side to E | ½ |
| From the top to F | ⅓ |
| From H to G | 1 |
+----------------------+--------+
Lay B A, which is the folded part, on a double piece of the material.
Cut from F to G, slope from G to E, curve from E to A, round from C to
B, cut from B to A. This shoe should be bound with ribbon; it looks
pretty made of drab or grey, and bound with blue or rose colour. A
little bow is put on in front, and strings are sewed to the ends of the
straps, or passed through oylet-holes made in them, to tie round the
ankle, and thus keep the shoe in its place.
BABY’S TICKING SHOE.
PLATE 20. FIG. 50.
This is also in one piece, and makes a pretty variety, it is cut
according to the scale given before, and care must be taken in the
cutting out to place the ticking on the pattern, so that the stripes
lie properly, i. e. straight from the middle or front of the shoe,
to the toe. The ticking is then ornamented by being worked in the
intervals between the dark stripes, either in herring-bone, or some
other fancy stitch, in coloured netting silk, either in one colour,
or in two well chosen contrasts, as blue and brown, crimson and dark
green. It is then lined all through, bound with ribbon to suit the
work, and sewed up behind. The sole is of thick but flexible leather,
lined and bound. Oylet-holes are made on each side of the slit in the
front, through which a ribbon is laced, to tie it up, and a bow put on
at the top of the slit, completes it.
ON COVERING SHOES.
It is sometimes very good economy to cover white or light coloured silk
or satin shoes, but it requires great exactness, both in the fitting
and sewing the new cover on; black silk or satin is generally found
to answer the best, as from its dark colour any inaccuracies are less
likely to be observed. The quantity required for covering a full sized
pair of lady’s shoes is six nails, cut the straight way.
Lay a piece of soft paper upon your shoe, and cut an exact pattern,
divided of course in two parts, the front and the back. Place the
pattern upon your satin or silk, so that the material lies the straight
way, and so as to economize the satin.
The shoes must be first well rubbed and cleaned with a cloth; the
binding should, if possible, be picked off, and every little crack or
thin place neatly darned.
When you put the satin on the shoe, begin with the front, and be
careful that it lies perfectly straight and even, pin it with small
pins very near together, all round the front, next to the sole, keeping
your hand in the shoe, so as to fill it out, almost as when the foot is
in it; whip or sew it over at the inside round the edge, with a tacking
thread, and pretty close stitches; then with a stout needle and strong
but not coarse black silk, sew the satin to the shoe, as close to the
sole as possible, with small neat stitches, taking very great care not
to draw or confine it in any part, for fear of hurting the foot, and
trying it on from time to time, to make sure. The back is done in a
similar manner, and then a ribbon is laid on up the sides, where the
front and back join, and double stitched. The binding is next put on,
this must also be neatly back-stitched, and is broad enough to conceal
the tacking, or sewing-over threads; you must observe not to hold it in
too much, or all your work is wasted; for if the binding is tight, the
shoes can never be worn. Small bows and strings complete the whole.
Shoes that have been wetted by sea water, should be washed with soap
and water, which prevents their spoiling.
For cleaning white satin shoes, see Receipt, No. 41.
Patent leather shoes should be well rubbed with oil outside, to clean
them, and prevent their cracking.
The soles of shoes should be cut straight-wise, as when cut on the
cross, they will crack.
GLOVES.
The chief kinds are kid, doe-skin, Berlin, Woodstock, and Limerick. The
principal manufactures for the former kinds, are at Worcester, Dundee,
and Jersey; the latter take their names from the places where they
are made. French gloves are by some preferred to the English make, as
they are considered to be more elastic. The Berlin gloves look like
Woodstock, and wash and wear beautifully; a little pearl ash in the
water makes them look as well as new. Others are made of cotton, silk,
and worsted, and woven, net, or knit; for the latter, see “Knit Gloves.”
Cotton gloves are worn by men servants when waiting at table, and are
very good for the purpose, as they are easily washed.
It is impossible to give any shapes or scales for gloves; the best plan
to get an exact pattern is to pick an old glove to pieces, and cut
out by it. Gloves are sewed with a peculiar kind of silk, prepared on
purpose, which is finer and less twisted than ordinary sewing silk; it
is between floss and round silk. The needles are small, very sharp, and
three-sided towards the point.
For cleaning gloves, see Receipt, No. 40, 45.
ON DOWN AND FUR.
As it may be a matter of economy to some persons, especially to those
who live in the country, to understand something of the making up,
cleaning, and keeping of down and fur, such hints as are essential
to those not regularly employed in the business, are given in the
following pages.
DOWN.
The down of the swan, from its high price, is rarely used; as it is not
plucked from the skin, there is little to be said about it, excepting
that, after being well cleaned, the skin is cut into strips or squares
of the size required, and at once sewed upon the article to be trimmed
or ornamented.
Christmas is the prime season for goose down, and a great difference
is made in the waste, if it is gathered out of season, when there will
probably be a mass of pen feathers, or new quills, growing under the
breast, which must all be picked out, before the down can be got at,
which of course adds much to the trouble and expense. That down which
lies under the wings has no quill, therefore it cannot be sewed at all,
but is kept for stuffing cushions, coverlets, &c. Down should be kept
in paper bags or boxes, in a very dry place; damp spoils it.
A little while before it is used, it should be laid in paper bags
before the fire, to lighten or separate it.
For sewing on down, to be used as trimmings, &c., the following
instructions should be attended to.
Choose a small empty room, with as few drafts of air as possible in
it; wear a black silk pinafore or apron, and have a silk cover, or old
apron on the table, to prevent the down adhering to it, or to the dress.
Begin by sorting your down into a box, keeping the refuse, or that
without quills, in another box or bag by itself; in sorting it, draw
a handful out of the bag, holding it fast in the palm of the hand,
pulling it out piece by piece, by which means there is little waste;
the hands of the workwoman should be very clean and cool. When all
those pieces which have quills to them have been carefully picked out,
lay them in pairs upon the table.
Cut your strip of calico to the proper size, whether for a boa or muff,
it must be the straight way. Pin the calico, beyond the part where you
are going to work, to your waist or dress, and have some strong thread
in your needle; double your calico in regular rows or creases, rather
less than one quarter of a nail apart; then begin to sew the down upon
the first crease or fold, pass your needle through the ends of two of
the small quilled pieces, which you must hold in your hand, push them
down upon the calico, and sew three stitches strongly upon them, taking
care not to pull the thread too tight, or it will not wash well; then
take another stitch, a little further on the line, before beginning
with the next piece of down. When the row is finished, go on to the
next line marked on the calico, keeping that already done, next to you,
so as to lie inside, or under your hand.
Observe, that for a boa, the rows of down go width-wise of the calico,
while for a muff, the rows must be in a downward direction or round it;
in short it should always be sewed in that way which will make it shew
to the best advantage when made up, and so as to conceal the rows of
sewing.
Upon an average, six ounces of down will make a boa, with nearly three
ounces waste. The best goose down is about 2_s._ an ounce; it chiefly
comes from Lincolnshire.
Turkey down is also at its prime at Christmas, and is sometimes used
for cuffs, neck-ruffs, or operas, and other small articles.
IMITATION ERMINE.
Sew tails of false black sable into white Spanish rabbit skin, cut
a little V and let the tail in, covering it over with the flap, and
sewing the tail firmly in.
The following is a list of the furs in general use:—
Sable, which is black and brown.
Ermine, black and white.
Chincilla, greyish blue.
Bear, black, brown, and Isabella.
Otter.
Fox, black, brown, and white or Arctic.
Wolf, yellow or sandy.
Wolverine.
Lynx, black.
Squirrel, brown, or silver, which is also called Minever.
Racoon.
Fitch, brown.
Weazel.
Rat, Norwegian or Russian.
Rabbit.
Martin.
Cat.
TO MAKE A MUFF.
A full sized muff is about nine nails wide, and fourteen nails long,
before it is sewed up. To make a foundation for a muff, lay a piece of
Jersey on the table, and upon it a layer of curled horse-hair, next a
sheet of wadding, roll it round, and sew it up the proper size, put
it inside the muff and tack round the edge at each end, then make the
lining, slip it in neatly and fasten it. One yard and a quarter of silk
will line a full sized muff.
TO MAKE A BOA.
After sewing the down on the calico, as before directed, or the skins
of fur together, turn it to the wrong side, and sew the seam up neatly
and strongly, turning it out to the right side as you go on, then fill
it with Jersey to a proper thickness.
The usual length of a boa, is from two yards and three-quarters to
three yards.
TO MAKE A TIPPET.
A tippet is lined with flannel and wadding between the silk and the fur.
TO MAKE AN OPERA, OR RUFF.
This is lined with flannel and wadding, within the silk lining.
Fur is always cut at the back, with a knife and rule.
TO CLEAN FUR.
Unpick the seam, but not the skins. Place it on a large deal table,
and tack it slightly down with small nails. Pound white French chalk,
add some bran to it, and keep rubbing it on with the hand and a clean
flannel very hard backwards and forwards, take it out with a brush, and
when done, shake it well. When a grub or moth is in the fur, put it in
a stove hot enough to bear the hand.
TO CLEAN DOWN.
Open the seam, and wash with white soap and warm water; shake it before
a gentle fire till dry.
TO PRESERVE FUR
With respect to keeping furs, it is well to bear in mind the old adage
that
“A little neglect may breed a great mischief:”
great care should be taken to preserve them free from moths and damp;
the following are the best methods of doing so:—
On laying furs by for the summer, they should be put into brown paper
bags, with clean hops scattered over them, and once or twice during the
season, they should be exposed to the air and well combed or shaken, or
they may be put away in tin boxes, or sewed up in strong linen; pepper,
Russia leather, or a piece of mould candle are very good preservatives
against moths, when put in the box or bag with the fur.
When fur has been wetted, it should not be wiped, but only shaken, and
laid in the sun or a warm room till dry.
The best method of cleaning or preserving fur, is by washing the skin
with a solution of corrosive sublimate in as much spirits of wine as
will dissolve it, and gently shaking it, dry near but not close to a
fire. After this process has been gone through, the moth will not touch
it, but it requires care, as corrosive sublimate is a strong poison.
CHAPTER VII.
HOUSE LINEN.
House linen appears to be a branch of domestic economy little
understood and considered, in comparison with its importance.
Many persons are little aware how much the good washing and wearing
of their house linen depends on the choice and adaption of it to the
purposes for which it is intended, as well as of the different methods
of cutting and making it up, so as to have a handsome appearance, with
due attention to economy. The following suggestions, though not adopted
in all families, may, it is hoped, prove useful to some.
House linen may be classed under four heads, namely, bed-room linen,
table and pantry linen, housemaid’s linen, and kitchen linen, to which
may be added stable linen.
The following is a general table of all the linen necessary in a
gentleman’s house, together with the price, width, and quality. Each
article will afterwards be entered upon at large.
BED-ROOM LINEN.
SCALE.
+--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
| Number | | Kind of Linen. |Length.| Width.| Price. |
| required. | | | | | |
+--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
| | | |Yds nls|Yds nls| |
| |Best sheets, double bed|Fine linen | 4 0 | 3¼ 0 | 8_s._ to 6_s._ 6_d._|
| |Family sheets, double bed|Coarser linen | 3 8 | 2¾ 0 | 4_s._ to 5_s._ 9_d._|
| |Calico sheets, double bed|Fine strong calico | 3 0 | 2½ 0 | 3_s._ or 22_d._ |
| +-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
| |Servant’s linen sheets, | | | | |
| | double bed|Stout unbleached linen| 3 0 | 2½ 0 | 2_s._ 6_d._ to 4_s._|
| +-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
|From three |Best sheets, single bed|Fine linen | 2¾ 0 | 2½ 0 | 3_s._ to 5_s._ |
|sheets to two |Family sheets, single bed|Coarser linen | 2 0 | 2½ 0 | 3_s._ to 4_s._ |
|pairs to each |Calico sheets, single bed|Fine strong calico | 2 0 | 2½ 0 | 20_d._ |
|bed. +-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
| |Servant’s sheets, | | | | |
| | single bed|Stout unbleached ditto| 2 0 | 2½ 0 |10_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._|
| +-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
| |Ditto, ditto |Ditto | 2 0 | 1 0 | 4_d._ to 8_d._ |
| |Crib sheets |Fine calico or linen | 2 0 | 1½ 0 | 1_s._ |
| |Cradle sheets |Fine calico | 1½ 0 | 1 0 | 1_s._ |
+--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
| | | | |19 nls.| |
| | | | |before | |
| |Best pillow cases |Finest linen | 1 0 | sew’d | 3_s._ |
|Two to each |Family pillow cases |Fine linen | 1 0 | 19 | 2_s._ |
|pillow. |Calico pillow cases |Fine calico | 1 0 | 19 | 14_d._ |
| |Servant’s pillow cases |Soft strong linen | 1 0 | | 11_d._ |
+--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
| |Best fine towels |Finest pinafore diaper| 1 0 | 12 | 20_d._ |
|From six to |Family fine towels |Fine check diaper | 1 0 | 12 | 1_s._ 6_d._ |
|twelve towels |Best coarse towels |Fine huckaback | 1 0 | 12 | 1_s._ 4_d._ |
|each washing |Family coarse towels |Coarser huckaback | 1 0 | 11 | 1_s._ 2_d._ |
|stand. |Servant’s towels |Coarse huckaback | 1 0 | 11 | 1_s._ |
+--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
|Two to each | | | | | |
|or three to |Toilet table covers |Diaper or quilting | | | 3_s._ |
|two toilets. | | | | | |
+--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
|Two to each |Pincushion covers |Dimity or muslin | | | |
|toilet. | | | | | |
+--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+
TABLE LINEN.
SCALE.
+------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
| Number | | Kind of | | | |
| required. | | Linen. |Length.| Width.| Price. |
+------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
| | | |Yds nls|Yds nls| |
| | Breakfast cloth | Damask | 1¼ 0 | 1¼ 0 | 3_s._ 6_d._ to 6_s._ |
| | Ditto | Ditto | 1½ 0 | 1½ 0 | 4_s._ to 8_s._ |
| 8 or 10 +-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
| | Ditto, large size,| | | | |
| | or small | Ditto | 1¾ 0 | 1½ 0 | 6_s._ to 12_s._ |
| | dinner cloth| | | | |
| +-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
| | Ditto square | Ditto | 2 0 | 2 0 | 8_s._ to 20_s._ |
+------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
| | Common table cloth| Ditto | 2½ 0 | 2 0 | 10_s._ to 25_s._ |
| | Table cloth | Ditto | 3 0 | 2½ 0 | 18_s._ to 40_s._ |
| 8 to 10 | Ditto | Ditto | 3½ 0 | 2½ 0 | 21_s._ to 60_s._ |
| | Ditto | Ditto | 4 0 | 2½ 0 | 30_s._ to 40_s._ |
| | Ditto | Ditto | 5 0 | 2½ 0 | 80_s._ to 120_s._ |
| +-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
| | Largest size | Fine | | | |
| | | Damask | 8 0 | 2½ 0 | 80_s._ to 160_s._ |
+------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
| | Table linen in the| | | | |
| | piece, per yard| Damask | | 1½ 0 | 2_s._ 9_d._ to 4_s._ |
| 1 to 3 +-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
| | Ditto | Ditto | | 1¾ 0 | 3_s._ 6_d._ to 5_s._ 6_d._|
| | Ditto | Ditto | | 2 0 | 4_s._ 6_d._ to 10_s._ |
| | Ditto | Ditto | | 2½ 0 | 6_s._ to 12_s._ |
| | Ditto | Diaper | | 1½ 0 | 1_s._ 6_d._ to 2_s._ 6_d._|
| | Ditto | Ditto | | 1¾ 0 | 2_s._ to 3_s._ |
| | Ditto | Ditto | | 2 0 | 2_s._ 6_d._ to 3_s._ 6_d._|
| | Ditto | Ditto | | 2½ 0 | 3_s._ 6_d._ |
+------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
|3 to 6 doz. | Dinner napkins | Fine | | 14 | 18_s._ to 60_s._ |
| | | Damask | | | per dozen. |
+------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
|3 to 6 doz. | Breakfast napkins| Damask | | 12 | 12_s._ to 24_s._ |
| | | | | | per dozen. |
+------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
|3 to 6 doz. | Doyleys | White or| 6 | Square| 6_s._ to 12_s._ |
| | |coloured | | | |
| | | do. | | | |
+------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
|6 to 12 doz.| Large tray cloths|Damask or| 1 6 | 2 6 | |
| | | diaper| 1 6 | 2 6 | prices too variable |
|6 to 12 doz.| Small ditto | Ditto | 1 3 | 13 | to notify. |
+------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+
PANTRY LINEN.
SCALE.
+---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+
| Number | | | | | |
|required.| ———————— |Kind of Linen. |Length.| Width.| Price. |
+---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+
| | | |Yds nls|Yds nls| |
| 6 to 12|Knife-box cloths |Linen | 6 | 6 | 7_d._ per yd|
| 6 to 12|Pantry knife cloths |Coarse linen | 8 | 8 | 7_d._ ditto |
| |Pantry dresser cloths|Coarse diaper | | 11 | 9_d._ ditto |
| 3 |Plate-basket cloths |Linen | | |11_d._ ditto |
| 12 to 24|China cloths |Soft linen | | | |
| | | or diaper | 1 0 | ¾ 0 |11_d._ ditto |
| 12 to 24|Glass cloths |Soft fine linen| ¾ 0 | ¾ 0 |11_d._ ditto |
| |Lamp cloths |Linen and silk | ¾ 0 | ¾ 0 | |
+---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+
| 4 to 6 |Aprons |Leather and | See | | |
| | | linen | aprons| | |
+---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+
| 6 pr. & |Waiting gloves |Cotton wove | | |1_s._ per pr.|
| upwards | | | | | |
+---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+
HOUSEMAID’S LINEN.
SCALE.
+---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+
| Number | | | | | |
|required.| ———————— | Kind of Linen.|Length.| Width.| Price. |
+---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+
| | | |Yds nls|Yds nls| |
|12 to 36 |House dusters |Linen | 1 0 | 12 |1_s._ per yd|
+---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+
| 2 |Scouring |Coarse | ½ 0 | 14 |7_d._ ditto |
| | flannels | flannels | | | |
+---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+
| 6 to 12 |Paint cloths |Soft old linen | ½ 0 | 12 | |
+---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+
| 6 |Chamber bottle|Linen | ¾ 0 | 12 |9_d._ ditto |
| | cloths | | | | |
+---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+
| 6 |Chamber bucket|Checked blue or| 1 0 | 12 |9_d._ ditto |
| | | lilac linen | | | |
+---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+
| 4 to 8 |Clothes bags |Calico or linen| | |8_d._ ditto |
+---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+
|2 to each|Pinafores |See pinafores | | | Pl. 16. |
| maid | | | | | Fig. 8. |
+---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+
KITCHEN LINEN.
SCALE.
+--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+
| No. | | | | | |
|required| ———————— |Kind of Linen| Length. | Width.| Price. |
+--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+
| | | | Yds. nls.|Yds nls| |
| 6 to 12|Table cloths |Coarse diaper|2 or 3 yds| 2 0 |at 2_s._ 6_d._|
+--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+
| 4 to 12|Dresser cloths|Diaper or | | 11 |at 20_d._ |
| | | huckaback | | | |
+--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+
| 6 to 12|Cooking cloths|Huckaback | 3 0 | 12 |at 1_s._ |
| 6 to 12|Roller towels |Ditto | 4 0 | 11 |at 1_s._ |
+--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+
|12 to 24|Dusters |Blue linen | 1 0 | 12 |at 11_d._ |
| | | check | | | |
+--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+
|24 to 36|Tea cloths |Soft linen | 12 | 12 |at 1_s._ 1_d._|
|24 to 36|Knife cloths |Linen | 8 | 8 |at 1_s._ |
| 6 to 12|Pudding cloths|Old linen | 12 | 12 | |
| 2 |Jelly bags |Flannel | | |at 1_s._ 4_d._|
+--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+
| |Ham and bacon |Brown earn | | |at 1_s._ |
| | bags | | | | |
+--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+
| 6 to 12|Cheese cloths |Canvass or | 12 | 8 |at 8_d._ |
| | | cheese cloth| | | |
+--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+
STABLE LINEN.
SCALE.
+-----------------+-----------------+---------+--------+
| ———————— | Kind of Linen. | Length. | Width. |
+-----------------+-----------------+---------+--------+
| | | Nails. | Nails. |
| Carriage cloths | Soft linen | 12 | 12 |
| Paint ditto | Old silk | | |
| Flannels | Soft but coarse | | |
| Saddle-cases | See “Cases” | | |
+-----------------+-----------------+---------+--------+
[Illustration: PLATE 21
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3
Fig. 6 Fig. 4
Fig. 5 Fig. 7 11 Fig. 16 17
Fig. 8 12 9 13 18
10 14 19
21 23 24 26 28 31 34 37 15
25 27 32 35 38 40 41 42
22 29 30 33 36 39 43 44 45
46 47 48 49 50 51 52 58 59 60
53 54 55 56 57 61 66
64 65 62 63 67]
SHEETS.
These are of different sizes and qualities, which are regulated by the
size of the bed, and other circumstances.
Gentleman’s families generally have three and sometimes more qualities
of sheeting. The finest and best for the spare beds; the second quality
for the general use of the family; and the third, of a commoner kind
for servants; where there are several children, it is good economy to
have bed-linen of an intermediate quality, for their use.
For those families who are in the habit of going periodically to the
sea-side, it is a good plan to have calico sheets for the express
purpose, for several reasons; in the first place, they take much less
room than the linen in packing; secondly, if lost during the journey,
they, not being of such value as linen, it will not be of so much
importance; and thirdly, as very indifferent washerwomen are usually
met with at watering or sea-bathing places, it would be a pity that
linen sheets should run the risk of being badly washed or discoloured.
Invalids, infants, and young children should have sheets and pillow
cases of fine calico, as they are warmer and considered more wholesome,
especially in hot weather, when persons are liable to perspire.
Sheets should, if possible, be of such a width as to avoid a seam in
the middle, but they seldom can be procured of more than two yards and
three-quarters wide, which size, though wide enough for a good double
family bed, is still rather within that usually adopted for spare beds.
In making up, if they are in two breadths, sew them together firmly,
but with neat small stitches, the ends are turned down, as if for
hemming, but they are sewed in the same manner as the tops of shifts.
Sheets should be marked at the corner with the initials of the master
of the house alone, or with those of the master and mistress, with the
set to which it belongs, the number and the date, for instance:—
H. M. S.
F.
4
..38
Signifies Henry and Mary Saville, family sheets, the 4th pair, 1838.
B may be put for the best sheets, F for family, S for servants.
The stock of sheets should depend on the number of beds, allowing, upon
an average, either three sheets or two pair for each bed.
When worn in the middle, sheets should be turned, that is, unpicked
down the seam, and the two outer selvages sewn together, so that the
inner selvages thus become the outer, and the sheet is equally worn.
Best sheeting, four yards wide, costs per yard 6_s._ 6_d._ to 8_s._
Ditto, three yards wide, costs per yard 5_s._ 3_d._
Second best sheeting, four yards wide, costs per yard 4_s._ 6_d._ to 5_s._
Ditto, three yards wide, costs per yard 2_s._ 9_d._ to 4_s._
Servants’ common, one yard wide, costs per yard 8_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._
Ditto, two yards wide, costs per yard 1_s._ 6_d._ to 2_s._
Ditto, two yards and a quarter wide, costs per yard 2_s._ to 3_s._
Ditto, two yards and a half wide, costs per yard 2_s._ 6_d._ to 4_s._
Servants’ common sheeting, two yards and three
quarters wide, costs 3_s._ to 5_s._
Ditto, three yards wide, costs per yard 4_s._ to 7_s._ 6_d._
Fine calico, two yards wide, costs per yard 1_s._ 8_d._ to 2_s._ 3_d._
Ditto, one yard and a half wide, costs per yard 1_s._ 2_d._ to 1_s._ 8_d._
Unbleached calico, one yard wide, costs per yard 4_d._ to 8_d._
Ditto, wide width, costs per yard 10_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._
There is a common kind of calico sold in the piece, or whole sheet, for
the poor, which is both warm and cheap.
PILLOW CASES OR SLIPS.
These are made of fine linen for the best, and of coarser linen and
calico for the family and servants’ use.
Procure your material of a width which corresponds with the length of
the pillow; cut it one yard and three nails down the selvage. Fold the
piece in half its length and sew it up; one end is also sewed up to
form the bottom; at the other end, a broad hem is made, say half a nail
wide, and strings or buttons sewed on to fasten in the pillow. It is a
good plan, followed by some managing housekeepers, to cover the pillows
with linen or calico, which is slightly sewed on, and the pillow cover
is slipped over it. The advantage gained is, that it makes the pillow
case look particularly white, and as it is of no consequence whether it
is of linen or calico, the first cover may be made of any old pieces of
either that happen to be in the house.
The stock of pillow cases must depend on the number of pillows to each
bed; some beds have four belonging to them, while others have only
two; each pillow in daily use, should have two slips belonging to it,
and spare beds might have a cover to each pillow, and half the number
besides, for the washing.
In addition to the full sized pillows, some persons have small ones
made of down, five or six nails square; they are a great comfort to
those who are in delicate health, or who suffer from cold.
TOWELS.
These are always a yard long, and eleven or twelve nails wide; they may
be bought singly, with fringe at the edges, or in the piece, in which
case the ends are sewed, or very strongly hemmed. Nursery or school
towels have sometimes loops sewed to the ends by which they may be hung
to the wall.
Best towels are made of fine diaper, similar to that used for
pinafores, and fine huckaback.
The second quality is of diaper, of a different pattern, and rather a
coarser huckaback.
Servants’ towels are of coarse huckaback.
The stock of towels should depend upon circumstances, such as the
frequency or otherwise of washing; but upon an average, from six to
twelve should be allowed to each washing stand.
DRESSING-TABLE COVERS.
These are of various kinds; sometimes merely a piece of diaper of
the proper size is used, at others, a kind of Marseilles quilting
made on purpose, and muslin or dimity, trimmed with fringe or frills.
Much depends on the shape of the toilet table; some have merely the
cover laid on the top, others are bordered along the sides and front
with frills or work. Some persons have merely a piece of oil-cloth,
the proper size, and bound with ribbon round the edge, upon their
dressing-tables and washing-stands they look neat and are very durable.
PINCUSHIONS.
For these and their cover, see “Pincushions.” One cushion and two
covers should belong to each toilet table.
TABLE CLOTHS.
These vary in quality, according to circumstances. The finest are the
most expensive, and are only used for company. The price varies not
only with the size, but also with the pattern.
The material of which they are made is called damask, and may be
purchased up to a certain size in single table cloths, after which it
must be bought in the piece.
Care should be taken in choosing a table cloth, to see that the edges
are even, and the threads regular.
DINNER NAPKINS.
These are also made of damask, and vary in quality and price, according
to the pattern.
The best are from 50_s._ to 60_s._ per dozen.
The second quality from 18_s._ to 45_s._ per dozen.
Dinner napkins are folded in various ways, and are generally put upon
the plate, enclosing the roll or bread. The following modes are those
usually adopted.
THE HALF-PYRAMID SHAPE.
PLATE 21. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 10.
1st. Take the cloth as it comes from the wash, and open the square
length-wise, drawing the folded napkin to its fullest extent.
2nd. Turn up the ends to meet in the centre. Fig. 7.
3rd. Turn the napkin thus folded, so that the turned up ends are below,
or underneath.
4th. Turn up each corner, half-handkerchief-wise, towards the centre.
Fig. 8.
5th. Turn the cloth again the other side uppermost, and again turn the
corners up to the centre. Fig. 9.
6th. Take hold of the corners, A B, and by drawing them under, make
the napkin stand on its end, so that C stands up, and the cloth is
supported by A B D. The bread is within the hollow, or between the
folds thus formed.
THE DIAMOND SHAPE.
PLATE 21. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 11, 17.
1st. Open the square length-wise, drawing out the napkin to its full
length.
2nd. Fold the ends to meet in the centre. Fig. 7.
3rd. Turn up each corner, half-handkerchief-wise, towards the centre.
Fig. 8.
4th. Turn down the corners towards the centre. Fig. 11.
5th. Turn the cloth entirely over, and it is ready. Fig. 9. The bread
is put in the mouth of the napkin, which should be turned on the plate
towards the person. Fig. 17.
ANOTHER MODE.
PLATE 21. FIG. 12, 13, 14, 15, 18, 19.
1st. Open the napkin length-wise.
2nd. Fold it down from the centre, half-handkerchief-wise, at the
centre, leaving two long ends. Fig. 12, 18.
3rd. Take the right hand piece, and draw it over towards the left hand,
making the point, B, lie upon the point, A, thus forming a second
half-handkerchief, Fig. 13; turn the end back towards the right from
the centre, fold it back again in several neat straight folds towards
the centre, Fig. 19; do the same with the left hand piece, Fig. 14,
turn the napkin, and it resembles a diamond on a square, Fig. 15.
Napkins are often used to lay under fish, pastry, or sweet things, in
which case, they may be folded in the shape of a diamond, or else the
whole napkin, being first laid open, is plaited in regular and very
small folds till reduced to the proper width; it is then doubled down
a little at each end to secure the folds, and to make it fit the dish,
Fig. 16.
DOYLEYS.
These may be either white or coloured, and are sometimes open, of six
nails square; they are generally fringed.
The best linen doyleys are about 11_s._ 6_d._ per dozen.
The second linen quality, 8_s._ per dozen.
The common sort or cotton, 4_s._ to 5_s._ 3_d._ per dozen.
KNIFE-BOX CLOTHS.
These are used to lay in the knife boxes, to prevent their being
creased, and should be of thick but soft linen.
PANTRY KNIFE CLOTHS.
These are for wiping knives and forks with, when cleaning them; they
should be of common but strong material.
PANTRY DRESSER CLOTHS.
These are useful and neat in appearance; they save the paint of the
dresser from being scratched. The length and width must of course
depend on that of the dresser. They are made of coarse damask, or
tolerably fine huckaback.
PLATE-BASKET CLOTHS.
This is a sort of bag to place within the plate-basket, in order to
prevent the sides being greased by the plates, which would cause it to
smell disagreeably. These bags are made of linen and fit the basket; a
circle is cut the size of the bottom, and the sides are equally well
fitted, and sewed to it; these sides are made to hang over outside
the basket, a sufficient depth to allow it either to have a tape run
through the hem, to draw it round under the rim, or it should have
slits to fit over the handles, by which it is secured tolerably firmly
to the basket.
PANTRY CHINA CLOTHS.
These are used for washing and wiping china, they should be of a soft
and rather thin material, as linen or diaper.
PANTRY GLASS CLOTHS.
These are used for glass, and should be as thin, or thinner than the
china cloths. Old silk handkerchiefs are sometimes allowed in addition,
to give the finishing polish to glass.
PANTRY LAMP CLOTHS.
These are for cleaning lamps and candlesticks, and are of flannel,
linen, and silk.
PANTRY APRONS.
Are worn by men servants, whilst at their work; for a description of
them, see “Aprons.”
WAITING GLOVES.
These should belong to the pantry linen, as they give a clean
appearance, and are particularly desirable for coachmen, and
out-of-door servants, who are occasionally required to wait at table.
These gloves are of woven cotton, and should be marked with their
number, &c.
HOUSEMAID’S LINEN.
DUSTERS.
These are used for dusting furniture, &c.; they should be of strong and
good quality; linen is generally used, though some persons have a kind
of blue cotton check, but it wears badly, and therefore, though cheap,
is bad economy in the end.
SCOURING FLANNELS.
These should be made of strong coarse flannel, not of a very open
texture, or they wear out soon. As they do not last long, it is of
no use to mark them further than by over-casting them with different
coloured worsteds, to prevent the edges becoming ragged, and to
distinguish the kitchen ones from those used up stairs.
PAINT CLOTHS.
These should be of old soft linen, as, if they are new and hard, they
are apt to scratch the paint.
CHAMBER BOTTLE CLOTHS.
Are used for wiping the jugs, glasses, and basins; they should be soft
and not too thick.
CHAMBER BUCKET CLOTHS.
These are for the slop-bucket, and should be of a different colour and
pattern to any other, for fear of getting them mixed, and employed for
other uses. Blue or lilac checks or stripes are good for the purpose.
CLOTHES BAGS.
The size of these must depend entirely upon the use for which they are
destined. They are generally made of linen, especially when large. The
largest size is two yards long, of two breadths before sewed up; the
small ones, two yards long, of one breadth before sewed up.
PINAFORES.
These are worn by servants while making beds, as, after emptying slops,
cleaning grates, dusting rooms, &c., the clothes are apt to soil the
bed-linen, which is very unpleasant and untidy.
KITCHEN LINEN.
TABLE CLOTHS.
These should be made of coarse and often unbleached diaper; the size
must depend on the number of servants, or rather on the length of the
table.
DRESSER CLOTHS.
These are laid on the dressers and cooking tables, and are of huckaback
or coarse diaper; they should be merely the width of the dresser, and
long enough to fall over a little at each end.
ROLLER CLOTHS.
These are very useful, and are fastened upon rollers fixed against the
kitchen doors or walls. They are one breadth, and four yards long, the
ends being sewed together; they are put upon the roller, and are used
by servants after washing their hands in the kitchen.
KITCHEN DUSTERS
are made of strong cloth; often of blue linen check.
KITCHEN TEA CLOTHS
are of thin linen, and used for wiping tea things, &c.
KITCHEN KNIFE CLOTHS
are made of any common old linen, used for wiping the knives and forks.
PUDDING CLOTHS.
As these are liable to be stained, they should be made of old towels or
other coarse linen.
JELLY BAGS.
PLATE 24. FIG. 2.
These are made of flannel, and are in the shape of a half handkerchief
cut from the square of a yard, the sides being sewed together, it
resembles a reversed sugar loaf. The top is hemmed and has three loops
sewed to it, which loop on to the corners of a frame which is made on
purpose.
HAM BAGS.
These are made of earn, strong canvass or sacking, and are made of the
same shape as a ham, or else are square, as a common bag; if the former
is preferred, the wide end or mouth is hemmed, and has strings drawn
through it, so that when the ham is put in, the bag is drawn up and
hung up by them to the hooks in the ceiling. Bacon is also put into
bags, which must be open at the long side, with an ample space to admit
of the bacon being put in.
CHEESE CLOTHS.
These are made of a material usually called in the shops “cheese
cloth”; it is a kind of thin canvass.
STABLE LINEN.
No remarks are necessary under this head, excepting as respects
saddle-cases, which should be furnished always for ladies’ saddles,
as they are liable to be moth-eaten, being stuffed. They should be of
linen or brown Holland, like a bag, cut out a little to the shape of
the saddle they are to contain.
Harness should always be hung against matting or drugget, instead of
against the naked wall; those parts of the harness not in general use,
may also be put in bags.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON LINEN.
House linen should be purchased of various patterns, according to the
use for which it is intended, and a great difference should be made
between kitchen, housemaid’s and pantry linen, so that they may not
easily be mixed, for servants frequently forget to look at the marks,
and the tea cloths should be easily distinguishable from the glass or
china cloths.
House linen should be marked very clearly and fully for this purpose;
ink is better than silk: it is well to mark all pantry things P,
kitchen K, house H, and stable S, but the use should be more fully
marked, thus “P china cloth,” or “K duster,” is not at all more than is
useful.
Plate 21, Fig. 5, is a drawing of a very convenient linen press, being
a kind of bin or chest, to contain dirty linen, placed between two
cupboards, three feet wide and twenty inches deep, and from six to
seven feet high. The doors of these cupboards may be in two parts, if
preferred to one, so that the pantry linen may be divided from the
kitchen on the one side, and the housemaid’s from the bed-room on the
other; the stable linen and any that is old may be put in the two
drawers under the cupboards; the apparent drawers under the bin are
false.
The bin is four feet and a half long, twenty inches deep, and three
feet high; it should have two lids on hinges, and a division inside
down the centre, so that wearing apparel may be kept separate from
the house linen; over the bin is a shelf, on which may be kept
clothes-baskets, &c., and beneath the shelf, lists of the linen may be
hung; an inkstand and washing books might also stand there.
The cupboards should have moveable shelves, with slides all down the
sides. It is an excellent plan to paste on the edges of these shelves,
tickets of card-board, on which are written the name and number of
the article upon the shelf. Thus, a ticket with “best sheets, 6
pair,” is placed on the edge of the shelf on which they lie; perhaps,
“best pillow cases, 12 pair,” will be side by side with the sheets,
the ticket belonging to them will therefore be on the edge of the
same shelf. This arrangement is useful both to mistress and servant,
particularly when a change takes place in the household. Fig. 6.
House linen should be counted over once a year at least.
A card containing a list of articles, together with the number and
the mark, should be fastened within the cupboard, together with
another list containing the quantity of linen allowed per week for the
laundress, and the price to be paid the washerwoman for each article.
A linen press should be kept in the most perfect order.
REMARKS.
In purchasing house linen, it is a good plan to buy it in the piece,
whether wanted at the time or not; by this means, you have always
plenty of new linen by you, which being cut up, may be made by the
the servants when there is any spare time, they should also be marked,
so that when a towel or any thing wants replacing, it can be done
immediately, and it does not appear nearly so great a tax on the purse
when several things are wanted at once; much time is thus saved, and
when things are bought in the piece they are charged less.
Shirt fronts, collars, and wristbands, children’s shifts, shirts and
pinafores, with several other articles might also be cut out in the
same manner, so that there is a constant supply of new linen ready-made
when wanted. This plan, of course, only answers with large families
where children of all sizes are to be fitted.
Very convenient washing books may be printed for families who pay for
their washing by the piece, with the prices affixed, of which the
following is a specimen.
It is the best economy to wash by the year, or by the quarter, in
places where it can be done, and by the score or dozen in preference to
the piece. A calculation may easily be made so as to be quite fair both
to the washerwoman and her employer.
COUNTRY PRICES.
NURSERY WASHING BOOK.
_Betty Powell_, _For Mrs. Wilson_.
Date. Date.
March March
1st. 1st.
Number. Number. Price. £. _s._ _d._
=========+========+=============================+=====+===+====+====
| | | _d._| | |
8 | 8 | Aprons | ½ | | | 4
2 | 2 | Bands | ½ | | | 1
5 | 5 | Caps | 1 | | | 5
7 | 7 | —— Night | ½ | | | 3½
| | —— Flannel | ½ | | |
| | Cloaks | 3 | | |
| | Frills | 1 | | |
| | Frocks | 2 | | |
| | Gowns, Night | 2 | | |
| | —— Flannel | 2 | | |
| | —— Dressing | 3 | | |
| | Handkerchiefs | ½ | | |
| | —— Neck | ½ | | |
| | Long Infant’s Robes | 3 | | |
| | —— Petticoats | 2 | | |
| | —— Day-Flannels | 2 | | |
| | —— Night-Flannels | 2 | | |
| | —— Day-Gowns | 2 | | |
| | —— Night-Gowns | 2 | | |
| | Napkins | ½ | | |
| | Petticoats | 1 | | |
| | —— Flannel | 2 | | |
| | Pinafores | ½ | | |
| | Saccarines | 2 | | |
| | Stockings, pairs of | 1 | | |
| | Socks, pairs of | ½ | | |
| | Shifts | 1 | | |
| | Shirts | ½ | | |
| | Shawls | 1 | | |
| | —— Flannel | 1 | | |
| | Spencers | 1 | | |
| | Tippet and Sleeves | 1 | | |
| | Trowsers | 2 | | |
| | Leglets | ½ | | |
| | Waistcoats | 1 | | |
| | Cradle Covers | 2 | | |
| | —— Sheets | 1 | | |
| | —— Blankets | 2 | | |
| | —— Coverlets | 3 | | |
| | —— Pillow Cases | ½ | | |
| | Towels | ½ | | |
| | Pincushion Covers | ½ | | |
| | Pieces of lace | 1 | | |
| | Mending | | | |
March 4.| | | | | |
£1. 11 2½ | | | | | |
Settled,| | | +---+----+---
_E. P._ | | | £ | 1 | 11 | 2½
| | | +---+----+---
LADY’S WASHING BOOK.
Number. Number. Price. £._s._ _d._
--------+--------+---------------------------+-------+---+----+----
| | Aprons | ½ | | |
| | Caps, Bonnet | 1 | | |
| | —— Night | 1 | | |
| | Collars | 1 | | |
| | Dresses | 4 or 6| | |
| | Dressing-Gowns | 3 | | |
| | Flannel ditto | 3 | | |
| | Drawers | 1 | | |
| | Flannel Petticoats | 1 | | |
| | Flannel Drawers | 2 | | |
| | Flannel Waistcoats | 1 | | |
| | Frills | 1 | | |
| | Habit-Shirts | ½ | | |
| | Jackets | 2 | | |
| | Night-Gowns | 2 | | |
| | Neck Handkerchiefs | ½ | | |
| | Pocket ditto | ½ | | |
| | Napkins | ½ | | |
| | Pockets | ½ | | |
| | Petticoats | 2 | | |
| | Socks, pairs of | 1 | | |
| | Stockings, pairs of | 1 | | |
| | Shifts | 2 | | |
| | Stays | 6 | | |
| | Skirts | 2 | | |
| | Shawls | 2 | | |
| | Tippets | 1 | | |
GENTLEMEN’S WASHING BOOK.
Number. Number. Price. £. _s._ _d._
--------+--------+---------------------------+-------+---+----+----
| | Breeches, pairs of | 3 | | |
| | Dressing-Gowns | 3 | | |
| | —— Flannel | 3 | | |
| | Drawers | 2 | | |
| | —— Flannel | 2 | | |
| | Flannel Waistcoats | 1 | | |
| | Jackets | 1 | | |
| | Night-caps | ½ | | |
| | Nightshirts | 2 | | |
| | Neck handkerchiefs | 1 | | |
| | Pocket ditto | ½ | | |
| | Socks, pairs of | 1 | | |
| | Stockings, pairs of | 1 | | |
| | Shirts | 3 | | |
| | Shirt Collars | 1 | | |
| | Waistcoats | 1½ | | |
| | Under Waistcoats | 1 | | |
HOUSE LINEN WASHING BOOK.
Number. Number. Price. £. _s._ _d._
--------+--------+---------------------+--------------+---+----+----
| | | | | |
| |Bed Furniture |2_s._ 6_d._ | | |
| |Blankets, per pair |8_d._ or 1_s._| | |
| |Counterpanes |1_s._ | | |
| |Chair covers | ½_d._ | | |
| |Dusters and Cloths | ½_d._ | | |
| |Doyleys | ½_d._ | | |
| |Jack or Roller Towels|1_d._ | | |
| |Kitchen Cloths | ½_d._ | | |
| |Napkins | ½_d._ | | |
| |Pillow Cases | ½_d._ | | |
| |Sheets, pairs of |2_d._ or 4_d._| | |
| |Sofa Covers |3_d._ | | |
| |Table Cloths |2_d._ or 4_d._| | |
| |Towels | ½_d._ | | |
| |Window Curtains |2_d._ | | |
CHAPTER VIII.
ON UPHOLSTERY.
As some knowledge of upholstery is of importance to the head of every
establishment, a few general observations relating to the fitting up of
beds, windows, and other articles of furniture requiring much drapery;
also, blinds, carpets, &c., may be advantageously inserted in this
work; as, in families of limited income, it is a great saving to make
up the above mentioned articles at home.
The Author has only introduced those patterns which, from their
simplicity, may always be used, without being decidedly in or out
of fashion. It is strongly recommended to those who can afford the
expense, to employ an experienced upholsterer, as the patterns will not
only be more in fashion, but more tastefully and regularly put up, than
they could possibly be by any one unaccustomed to the business.
Great accuracy is necessary for the graceful arrangement of drapery.
BEDSTEADS.
PLATE 22.
There are various shaped bedsteads, and consequently numerous modes of
fitting them up, the most simple of which will be explained in their
proper order.
[Illustration: PLATE 22
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8
Fig 10 Fig 9 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14
Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20
Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25
Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 30
Fig 26 Fig 28 Fig 31]
In providing bedsteads, it is always better to purchase them quite
new, even when required for the commonest purposes, as those which are
second-hand are liable to harbour bugs, which it takes both time and
patience to get rid of.
It is desirable that all bedsteads should have castors to roll upon,
that they may be the more readily moved about. Observe likewise that
there are valance sticks, curtain rods, and a good head board.
The best bedsteads are made of mahogany and oak: the commoner sorts, of
beech, stained red or painted. Those for hospitals or prisons, of iron;
supposed to be a preventative against bugs.
Brass bedsteads are used abroad, especially by travellers, and are
ornamental and durable, but very expensive.
The following is a list of the different kinds of bedsteads in general
use:—
The four-post bed, from £2. 10_s._ upwards, Plate 22, Fig. 2.
The tent bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 15.
The camp, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 16.
The half-tester, — 18_s._ —— — 22, — 19.
The French pole, — £1. 18_s._ —— — 22, — 21.
The French arrow bed, — £1. 10_s._ —— — 22, — 22.
The canopy bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 25.
The French block bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 24.
The turn-up bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 26.
The stump bed, — 9_s._ —— — 22, — 31.
The trestle or x, — 9_s._ —— — 22, — 27.
Besides which may be added, hanging beds or cots, hammocks, cribs, sofa
or chair beds, &c.
HINTS ON PUTTING UP BEDS.
So few ladies or servants understand how to put up or take down
bedsteads, that the following instructions are entered upon at full
length. An instrument called a bed key should be procured for the
purpose (see Plate 22, Fig. 1), after which proceed as follows:—Divide
the high upright posts for the head of the bed, from those intended for
the foot; the former are easily distinguished from the latter, being
usually square and perfectly plain, whereas those for the foot are
generally circular and ornamented.
Place the two head posts near that part of the wall where the bed is
to stand. Lay the foot posts below them on the floor, first observing
whether there are any marks or numbers upon them, by which you can be
directed to place the proper foot post opposite to its corresponding
head post; next lay the side and end pieces in their proper places; the
longer ones for the sides, and the shorter for the ends; these should
also be marked to point out their relative situations. Lay the head
board at the top, and the foot board at the bottom, and afterwards put
one long and one short screw at each corner of the bedstead. Assistance
must now be procured to rear up the four posts and set in the sides.
Three persons are necessary to effect this, but four are better for a
full sized bed.
Raise up the posts and set between them the side pieces, taking care
to slip into the groove, both the head and the foot boards, as they
cannot be put in after the posts are screwed together, unless they
button against them. The four long screws are intended to screw into
the sides, and the four short ones into the ends. The screw holes are
placed behind the little brass plates usually put on the legs of the
posts. Proceed with the bed key to turn each screw till firmly fixed in
the hole.
The sacking is next tightly laced up with strong cord, and ought to be
pulled together and knotted by a man, as a woman is scarcely strong
enough to do it effectually. The top-rails are next put on by slipping
the holes at the ends over the spikes at the tops of the bed posts.
The curtains are generally put on before the outer cornice, this last
is generally fastened on by a spring, or by hooks, or some other simple
contrivance.
Camp or tent beds have ribs or bars across the roof of the bed to keep
the curved top firm, but in other respects, differ little from the
four-post bed.
Observe, on taking down a bed, to mark carefully upon the pieces,
before removing them, different numbers, so as easily to place them in
their proper situations when next put up.
The head of a half-tester bedstead, should be very strongly attached
to the back, as its weight will endanger its falling, if not firmly
secured.
The other shapes will be entered upon when the mode of furnishing them
is explained.
ON FURNISHING BEDS.
Beds are furnished with the following articles, which with the addition
of sheets and pillow cases, explained in the article of house linen,
make them complete.
The drapery, including curtains.
The straw mattress.
The wool or hair mattress.
The feather bed.
The bolster.
The two or three pillows.
The quilt or counterpane.
The blankets.
The watch-pockets.
Beds for common use are hung with linen or cotton check, or stripe,
print or stuff, but for better purposes, with dimity, fine stuff,
moreen, damask, chintz, Turkey twill, and lined with glazed calico or
muslin of various colours, and for state-rooms, fine silk, satin, or
velvet is employed.
The modes of fitting up beds are various, according to the shape of
the bedstead, as well as to the taste. The most usual and simple
methods alone will be treated of here, all best beds and drapery for
sitting-rooms should be put up by regular upholsterers, as it requires
much correctness of eye, added to taste and knowledge of the prevailing
fashion.
The following observations on taste, on the choice of materials,
and arrangement of drapery, generally speaking, will be found worth
attending to.
Beds that are placed in small and low rooms should be hung with as
little drapery, as is consistent with comfort. Large valances, deep
fringes, high mattresses look bustling, and are not so airy and
therefore not so healthful as plenty of open space.
Beds placed in lofty rooms should be high, and have deep fringe and
valances, otherwise they will have a mean appearance, still if the room
be narrow, the less bulk of drapery the better.
Beds situated in dark gloomy rooms should be furnished with a cheerful
airy material, at the same time avoiding too violent a contrast with
the character of the room, furniture, or carpet. Every thing must be
taken into consideration and is worth attending to, for with a little
judgment, a room may be more elegantly furnished than another where six
times the money has been laid out, if not under the direction of taste.
Blue is pretty, but rather cold; yellow gives great cheerfulness, as
also pink, but the latter is apt to fade soon and is perhaps a little
too shewy. Crimson, claret, stone-colour, buff, and light green all
look well; a darker green is very refreshing to the eye, and therefore
suitable for very light sunny rooms.
Beds that are furnished with thick drapery, as stuff, moreen, damask or
linens, seldom, if ever, require linings, while chintzes and sometimes
dimities are lined with glazed calico, in which case, care should be
taken that the colour of the lining harmonizes not only with the bed
furniture, but with the papering of the room. The fringe, tassels,
ribbons, cord, and other decorations, should match in colour with the
lining. The pattern of the material should also be a consideration.
Stripes or small patterns are suitable for small rooms, while large
flowers or patterns best accord with large ones.
ON THE VARIOUS MODES OF DECORATING BED FURNITURE.
Beds are generally decorated with tassels or fringe, if the latter,
lace is usually laid on, at about a nail above the edge upon the hem
which is turned up. Sometimes the lining is cut larger than the outer
part, and brought over the edge to form a hem of a nail deep all round
the material outside. This looks pretty and simple. If the cornice be
a common one, the valance may be made with a kind of frill or heading
above, or a band or rouleau of the material laid above the valance
round which may be wrapped strips of the coloured lining of half an
inch, or even a nail in width. Cords in festoons, cut velvet, binding
and ornamental gimp or open work, are often employed. White dimity
furniture is sometimes lined with coloured calico with turned up hems,
sometimes merely coloured hems, at others finished with white fringe,
or frills with white cords and tassels.
ON FURNISHING A FULL SIZED FOUR-POST BED.
Bed furniture is composed of a top, a back, two head curtains, two foot
curtains, one top outer and one top inner valance, one bottom valance,
and sometimes extra drapery laid on the back of the bed.
When beds are lined, the lining is put inside the curtains, and within
the top and back of the bed. If there is any drapery laid upon the
back, it is generally composed of the outer chintz, as is also the
inside top valance.
Large sheets of coarse brown paper pasted together in lengths should be
laid over the beds to catch the dust. Some persons lay harden or coarse
linen between the head of the bed and these sheets of paper.
The furniture for beds must be cut differently, according to the
pattern of the material. If it is in stripes down the selvage the
valances are cut in breadths, if otherwise, upholsterers generally cut
them along the selvage, as they are less liable to shrink when cleaned
or washed.
PLAIN DRAPERY FOR A LARGE SIZED FOUR-POST BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 3.
If in If cut down
Breadths. the Selvage.
Width of head curtains, each 2 breadths 2 breadths
Width of each foot curtain 4 or 5 4 or 5
Width of foot valance all round 9 or 11 11 yards.
Width of the top outside valance 15 breadths 16 yards.
Width of the top inside valance 11 breadths 11 yards.
The back and head must be exactly measured, letting the selvage-way
ran from head to foot of the bed. The curtains should just touch the
ground, as also should the foot valance. The inner top valance should
be half a nail narrower than the outer. In making up, the curtains are
bound round, or if lined, sometimes the lining is brought outside to
form a hem all round. Lace is often laid on at about one nail from the
edge. The valances accord with the rest, having often fringe added to
gve a greater finish.
FESTOON HANGINGS.
PLATE 22. FIG. 4.
In making festoon valances or hangings, measure as follows:—
Divide the side of the bed in half, driving in a small tack as a mark.
Hang a piece of tape from the middle of the side to the end, Fig. 7,
making it fall in the droop or curve desired (see A B C, Fig. 7). Do
the same with another piece of tape, making it fall in the direction
of the upper part of the droop (see D E). Lay the material, Fig. 5,
on the table, and after taking down the pieces of tape, measure the
material from A to B, the length of the lower droop. Put a pin (see
D) immediately above B, upon the other selvage as a mark, and then
measure from the end, R, upon the selvage, the length of the upper
droop or shortest tape, which will fall at E, at some distance within
the mark D. Divide the space between D and E, exactly in half at G, and
cut from B to G; cut three other pieces to correspond, which, as they
exactly fit one with another (see Fig. 5), prevents waste. These four
pieces or breadths are for part of each of the four festoons, which
require a breadth and a half in each. For the half breadths fold the
material in exactly half its width, laying selvage along selvage, and
measure for the rest of the festoons (see Fig. 6). Upon the selvage
side, H, measure the length of the shortest part of the first breadths
already cut, and on the doubled side, measure the _exact_ length of
the smallest tape for the upper droop, L, and cut from H, to within a
nail of L, thus, when the doubled part is slit down, forming two half
breadths to correspond with the two whole breadths, making in all two
complete festoons. Cut two others, and the four festoons are complete,
and when the half breadths are sewed to the whole breadths, they appear
each similar to Fig. 10. Lay them one upon another, and slope off from
the straight end at the bottom A, about two nails from the sloped side,
B, and the festoons are ready to be made up. The bottom of the bed must
be measured with tape, and cut out in a similar manner.
The corners of the festoons are cut as follows:—
Measure off from the end, A, Fig. 8, down the selvage, the length
desired, putting a pin, B, in one of the selvages as a mark. Measure
the half of the length, A B, on the opposite selvage at D, and slope
off from D to B. This forms one head post corner, or half a foot post
corner, so that it requires six of these sloped lengths to complete
the four corners of the bedstead, and if cut properly to fit into each
other, no waste occurs. The Plate, Fig. 9, represents a head corner,
and Fig. 8, a foot corner or two breadths sewed together.
Sometimes a double corner is also made to hang between the two
festoons, in which case, it is cut similarly to the above, excepting
that it is much shorter and rounder. When the festoon is carried over a
pole, it is all in one piece (see Fig. 11), the pieces being shaped at
the ends, as in the separate festoons above.
ANOTHER UPPER DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 12.
This is simply a deep fringe, and looks exceedingly plain and handsome.
A back-piece or very narrow valance should be put outside, the inner
valance to accord exactly with the outer, to which the fringe is sewed.
The rod or pole should be handsome, and should be put outside this
valance, so as just to conceal the part where the fringe is attached.
The curtains are suspended to the rod by handsome rings, and draw
outside the valance and fringe. Cord and tassels may be added, if
preferred.
ANOTHER UPPER DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 13.
This is simple and pretty, and takes less material than the full
valance; it is cut selvage-way of the material of such a depth as
will accord with both room and bedstead, and exactly to fit round
the cornice. This valance is cut in various shapes, either pointed,
rounded, vandyked, gothic or otherwise, and usually with tassels fixed
to each point or angle to give a finish. Cords may be hung in festoons
at pleasure.
ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 14.
This is equally simple; it is cut in breadths and takes about nine on
each side, and seven at the bottom, to go round the bedstead; it is
sloped or cut nearly to a point in the middle of each of the three
sides, where a bow or ornament of some kind may be put.
ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 15.
This is suitable for tent beds, and is hung with a succession of
festoons, made as explained before.
ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 16.
This is intended for a camp bed, and is hung in festoons, having
however a back valance of plaited or plain material, which, together
with the curtains may, if preferred, be of a different colour to the
valances.
ON THE HEADS AND TOPS OF BEDS.
These vary very much, being sometimes plain and at others ornamented.
The material must always lie selvage-way from head to foot, and never
crosswise of the bedstead.
When plain, the material is stretched across so as to shew neither
crease nor wrinkle. Gimp is often laid down the seams and along the
sides.
When the head is plain, it is usual to put two festoons to give it a
more finished appearance. These festoons should be of the same material
as the outer drapery.
When full, Plate 22, Fig. 20, it takes four or more breadths, and is
set evenly into a band of webbing, which is tacked on to the bed, or
with loops hung firmly to hooks, so as not to tear the furniture.
When starred, Plate 22, Fig. 17, it generally takes eight breadths,
four at the corners, and the other four top and bottom, and the sides,
these must be shaped to form the square. It is all drawn to a centre
and fastened with a brass star. Sometimes they are half starred, as in
Fig. 18, where the plaits radiate from just above the pillow.
ON FOOT BOARDS.
These are generally entirely solid wood, but sometimes the foot board
is merely a handsome frame of mahogany containing the same material as
the lining of the bed furniture.
Fig. 11 represents a foot board of wood only.
Fig. 15 represents a foot board starred within the frame with chintz or
calico.
THE HALF-TESTER.
PLATE 22. FIG. 19, 20.
These may be trimmed in a variety of ways, either festoons, as in
Fig. 19, valances, or plain, and cut out in vandykes and scollops, as
in Fig. 20. This last looks pretty and simple, and as it gives the
appearance of great lightness to the head, it is preferable to the
others. The backs should be hung to accord with the outside.
Fig. 19 may be plain, with festoons of the outer material.
Fig. 20, with a simple inside valance, or the back fulled or gathered
into a half star, or set in flutes.
FRENCH POLE BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 21.
This is a compact, pretty shaped bed, and as it can be easily moved
about, or taken to pieces, it is convenient in an invalid’s room as an
extra bed. Two poles which rise from the head and foot board, support
the curtain rod which should be handsomely finished, and might be
fastened on by pushing the ends through the rings or circular holes
formed at the top of the supporters, and large ends screwed on to fix
it firmly. The four curtains have three breadths in each, and are
bound together firmly at the top. Rings must be fastened on, through
which the rod is drawn, and fastened to the supporters. Tassels may be
hung, and cords if preferred. Valances being put round, the drapery is
complete. Sometimes the two curtains, falling one on each side, are
sewed together behind.
THE FRENCH ARROW BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 22.
This bedstead is much the same shape as the pole bed, excepting that
it has no supporters or curtain rod, and therefore, when hung with
drapery, requires being placed near the wall, into which a pin or arrow
is driven, over which the drapery is hung. This shaped bedstead, when
not hung with drapery, is particularly desirable for servants, or for
schools, as the danger of fire is lessened, and if nicely finished and
painted looks neat and respectable, besides being economical and clean.
When hung, sew nine or eleven breadths together according to the size
of the bedstead. Measure the length with a piece of tape, allowing it
to droop as it lies from the top of the pole over the foot board to the
floor. Sew the breadths up all the seams, and then, after dividing the
whole width in half, marking it with a pin, hem the whole, and draw it
up folded in two, sewing it firmly to a case which should be made to
slip on the pole, something like an umbrella case. Another, and perhaps
a better mode, is that of sewing rings to the doubled part thus drawn
up, which will slip on to the pole, the head or knob of which when
screwed on, would prevent the rings from falling off.
FRENCH BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 23.
The drapery to this bed is exactly similar to the arrow French bed,
excepting that it is passed over a hook secured to the ceiling, in
preference to a pole from the wall.
FRENCH BLOCK BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 24.
The drapery for this is also similar to that of the arrow French bed,
excepting that it is fastened with tacks round four sides of a handsome
mahogany block fixed to the ceiling. To this should be added a handsome
valance or deep fringe to hide the fastenings of the drapery.
THE FRENCH CANOPY BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 25.
The bedstead and drapery are as the preceding, but fastened to a head
or crown secured to the wall having round it festoons as a finish.
Sometimes the head is supported by rods from the bedstead. A valance is
added to complete it.
THE TURN-UP BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 26.
This is also useful as an extra bed for invalids, or for small rooms,
as it takes up but little space, can be easily moved, and when turned
up, looks neat and tidy. In the one here represented, the sides are
made to draw out, the legs to unhook, and the top to take to pieces,
so that the whole can be packed in a small compass when not wanted.
In making up the drapery, the back may be full, plain or starred;
the sides plain or plaited, and two curtains sewed on, so made as to
overlap each other a little in front. These curtains loop up at the
sides with cords.
THE PRESS BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 28.
This shuts up still more completely than the turn-up bed, and forms
a chest or toilet table, when not in use; it looks very neat with
a simple toilet cover over the top. These beds are useful on some
occasions, in towns and in small houses, although they are not
generally considered wholesome, being low and rather confined. They are
sometimes lined with glazed calico, and a cover put outside of dimity,
frilled round the top, to which is sewed a piece of the same material,
very much fulled all round, to open in the middle of the front, down
each side of which is put a frill or fringe.
THE STUMP BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 31.
These are principally used by cottagers, and men servants, and require
no drapery, they are called stump bedsteads because the head posts are
short, not being higher than is sufficient to admit of a head board.
Sometimes cottagers attach a kind of curtain to a hook in the wall,
which adds much to their warmth and comfort, and would appear like a
half French bed. This drapery might be two breadths behind, and two
on each side, making six in all, which should be doubled and gathered
to a strong webbing. Baize, calimanco, or cotton check would be very
suitable.
THE TRESTLE BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 27.
This is the most simple and most common kind of bedstead made, and from
its construction, is not calculated to support a very heavy person, all
the strength depending upon the power of the two pins or screws which
fasten the legs. No drapery is used unless fastened to the wall as in
the above stump bedstead. A head board, with two pins, slips into the
holes at the top.
THE HANGING BED OR COT.
PLATE 22. FIG. 29, 30.
These are excellent things for children, especially where there is a
large family of sons; for officers’ families who are often obliged to
change their residence, they are particularly desirable, on account of
their cheapness, durability, and the little space they occupy. They are
only proper for single beds, but are sufficiently strong for a grown-up
person. They would answer exceedingly well for cottagers, as in the day
time, they might be drawn up to the ceiling, thus affording more room
in the apartment for washing, or performing other household duties.
They are made for the higher classes as follows:—
Procure a strong frame of wood, of about six feet long, and two feet
and a half wide, also two round poles of wood, two feet long and about
two inches in diameter. Get some strong ticking, or if it be covered
and lined, a kind of thick sacking would do, which might have a cover
of chintz, and lining of glazed calico. This sacking must be cut
according to the Plate 22, Fig. 29, allowing in addition to the size of
the frame, three feet at each end, and eighteen inches at the sides.
The ends have a strong hem or case sewed to them, into which the poles
are slipped. The four sides have lace-holes large enough to admit of
strong coloured cord to lace them together. The frame is let into the
square thus formed, having previously fastened to the sides two pieces
of ticking, one sewed on each long side at the bottom.
Put the frame into the square, having, however, first firmly fastened
at the bottom of the square, another piece of ticking, which shall
lace over the frame, down the length of the cot, so as to make a kind
of straight waistcoat, which keeps the frame firmly in place. Observe
that the cot, which is two feet six inches wide at the frame, is sloped
off to two feet at the ends where the poles are admitted, in order to
contract the sides a little, this keeps the clothes in place, and if
for a child, adds much to its safety. Crimson or other coloured ropes
should be employed to hang the cot from under the frame through hems
up the high ends, and out through holes made in the poles, afterwards
to meet at the hook in the ceiling on each side. A strong cord is also
run in at the hem along the long sides of the cot. Fringe may be added
at the bottom, if preferred. They should be hung at the same height
from the ground as common beds, the ropes should be very strong, and
be constantly looked at. They are better when fitted up with two thin
mattresses than with a mattress and bed. When not wanted, they will, if
unlaced, lie flat against a wall in a closet and take but little room.
They are hung from a ring on a hook in the ceiling.
Very little cots might be made with advantage to hang in a carriage, or
within a very large four-post bed, where the mother might attend her
infant without rising in the night to the danger of taking cold.
The expense of a handsomely fitted up cot would be about £2., but a
common one might be made for eight or ten shillings.
There are no further observations to be made on beds, excepting that
the more readily the drapery can be taken off and put on to the
bedstead, the less will be the wear and tear, so that if small loops or
rings could be sewed on the valances, so as to loop over the cornice,
it would be desirable. Once or twice a year bed furniture should be
taken down and well dusted, rubbed with crusts of bread, and sometimes
calendered to keep it in order. On leaving home, the curtains should
be rolled up to the top of the bed and put into linen bags, and the
cornices and valances taken down and covered up.
MATTRESSES.
The first mattress usually laid on the bedstead is made of straw, it
is very thick, and as hard as a board; as these are never made at
home, nothing more will be said about them, excepting that they are
made in a frame, and should be covered with a very strong good tick or
Holland.
The second mattress is made of horse-hair or wool for large beds;
and for children, of chaff, sea-weed, beech leaves, cocoa nut fibre,
paper, and many other things of the sort; chaff and horse-hair appear
the most desirable, from being cool, and neither too soft nor too hard
for comfort. These mattresses are made of various sorts of ticking, of
which linen or cotton stripe, and a kind called cranky tick are most
in use. For the poor, mattresses are often filled with mill-puff, or
flock, and for children, bran might be a good substitute. Mattresses
are made exactly to fit the bedstead, being cut out at the corners to
surround the post, if they intrude into the square of the bedstead.
They have sides sewed all round of one nail and a half or two nails
deep.
In cutting out a mattress, the rule is to allow an extra inch to every
foot, to give room for the stuffing both in length and in width.
These sides are usually cut the selvage-way of the ticking, and are
attached to the top and bottom by means of ferreting or webbing, which
is stitched with strongly waxed whitey brown thread, after which, the
mattress is filled with the stuffing, and then is tufted, as it is
usually called, which is done by passing a packing needle threaded with
strong thread entirely through the thickness of the mattress and again
passing it back at a little distance, and tying the two ends firmly
together. This is repeated at intervals of four nails or more apart, in
a straight row along it. A second line of tufting is now done, still
at four nails apart, letting the stitches fall opposite the middle of
the spaces in the last row, and so on. This secures the stuffing of
the mattress, and keeps it in place, little tufts of worsted are sewed
to these parts thus stitched, to hide the stitches and ornament the
mattress, sometimes mere circles of red leather are sewed on instead.
The price of a straw mattress is from 10_s._ to 30_s._
The price of a wool mattress is from 35_s._ to 60_s._
The price of horse-hair, per lb., is from 1_s._ to 2_s._
The price of mill-puff, per lb. 2_d._
The price of linen tick, per yard, is from 9_d._ to 2_s._ 9_d._
The price of cotton tick, per yard, is from 4½_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._
The price of wool, per lb., is from 6_d._ to 1_s._ 2_d._
BEDS, BOLSTERS, AND PILLOWS.
These are filled with chicken, turkey, goose feathers, and down, for
the higher classes, and mill-puff, which is a kind of cotton, for the
lower classes. The following prices are an average of the expense of
the various articles for making up beds.
Mill-puff, 2½_d._ per lb., of which fifty pounds make a large bed.
Flock, at 3_d._ per lb.
Chicken feathers, at 10_d._ or 1_s._
Grey goose, or turkeys’, at 2_s._ or 2_s._ 6_d._
Best goose, white feathers, at 2_s._ 2_d._ to 3_s._ 6_d._
Down from geese, for pillows, 6_s._ per lb.
Cotton ticking, for beds, at 6_d._ or 8_d._
Linen ticking, for beds, at 1_s._ or 1_s._ 3_d._
Beds are made sometimes with sides, and sometimes without; in the
latter case, nine yards of ticking are sufficient, otherwise eleven
yards. Divide one yard and two nails into four, to make the long sides,
and another yard, divided into four, to make ends; the bed is two
yards and a quarter in length, two breadths above, and two below. The
ticking is waxed with white wax, or rubbed with brown soap, and when
the feathers are in, the sides are bound with the usual binding, or
what is still better, piped throughout.
In making up mill-puff beds, care should be taken to separate dust, and
disentangle it well, before putting it into the ticking.
For a bolster, two yards are required, and for each pillow, one yard.
These should be filled with the softest feathers, and the ticking well
stitched.
Pillows are sometimes covered with calico covers, which tack or button
on underneath the usual pillow cases, mentioned in the article “House
Linen,” and make them look beautifully white and clean.
Every double bed should have three or four pillows, and single ones,
either one or two. Bolsters sometimes have also covers to preserve the
ticking. Pillows are often stuffed with down, or torn pieces of paper
of a quarter of an inch square; this last is said to be particularly
soft and cool.
BLANKETS.
Every bed should have one under blanket, and two or three upper ones.
These last are usually the Witney, whilst the under blanket is of an
inferior sort; they should be thick and light, with a soft nap or wool
upon them. Blankets are generally sold in pairs, or two woven together.
These, for beds must be cut, in which case, the edges are sewed over
in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch, with red, or other coloured
wool, also a kind of circle or star is often worked in the corner with
various coloured wool.
For cribs, it is better not to divide the blankets but lay them on the
crib double, as they come in more usefully as under blankets for beds
afterwards, when uncut. The Witney blanket is considered the best.
The Rose and the Bath are the other varieties.
When not in use, blankets should be folded, and laid under those beds
in use, to keep them aired. Some persons lend blankets to the poor,
in which case, on their being returned, they should be scoured well
and baked in an oven, before they are put by in brown paper bags with
pepper sprinkled over them.
COVERLETS OR COUNTERPANES.
There are various kinds of quilts or counterpanes. Those most known are,
The Marseilles, which sell from 6_s._ to 25_s._
The Imperial, which sell from 9_s._ to 30_s._
The Summer, which sell from 25_s._ to 58_s._
The Toilet cover, or cradle quilt 15_s._ to 42_s._
Those used for servants, are of a dark brown, violet, or grey colour.
Those used by cottagers, are often of patchwork made by them at school,
or in their leisure moments. These quilts are sometimes made of a
succession of hexagons or six-sided pieces of print, at others, birds,
figures, and other devices are cut out and sewed up with various shaped
bits of calico, prints, &c. These quilts are durable when lined, and
may be good work for school children, though they certainly take up a
good deal of time in making.
All counterpanes not in constant use, should be either put by in
drawers, or laid on the bed with the wrong side uppermost.
Having now entered upon each article belonging to the bedstead, it only
remains for us to make the following observation.
It is advisable to cut several small squares of linen, and having wet
them with the marking liquid, to mark upon them the list of every
article belonging to the bed to which the square of calico is to be
attached. These squares should be washed and ironed, and sewed upon
the mattress, bed, bolster, pillows, blankets, and coverlet of each
bedstead, thus:—
BLUE ROOM.
One straw mattress.
One hair ditto.
One feather bed.
Four pillows, one bolster.
One under and three upper blankets.
One counterpane.
Two watch-pockets.
By this method, the bed furniture, if mixed, can easily be sorted and
counted by the mistress or housemaid.
WATCH POCKETS.
These are often made of the same material as the bed-curtains, or of
white muslin, or dimity, or tick ornamented. A few shapes are mentioned
hereafter, in the chapter on cases, bags, &c.
CARPETS.
Those generally known, are as follows:—
Superb Axminster.
Saxony.
Royal velvet pile.
Tournay.
Brussels.
Turkey.
Imperial.
Kidderminster.
Venetian.
Danish Venetian.
Scotch.
Druggets.
Rugs, &c.
All these carpets are expensive and durable, the Brussels is that
most in use for best apartments, and best stair-cases in the present
day, being very durable, and less expensive than most of the others
mentioned in the same list. Their price varies from 4_s._ 6_d._ to
10_s._ 6_d._ per yard. Turkey carpets were formerly in great request
for dining-rooms, and were sometimes used as table cloths in libraries,
which gave a remarkably rich and handsome, though heavy appearance.
The great objection to them is their great weight, which renders it
difficult to shake them. These Turkey carpets look well for years, and
are made in the piece, measuring sometimes ten or more yards long, and
five or more wide. The expense varies according to their size, from
£10. to £80. or more.
Those carpets generally employed for common sitting-rooms, stair-cases,
servants’ apartments, &c. are the following:—
Kidderminster.
Venetian.
Damask Venetian.
Scotch.
Druggets.
Baizes, &c.
The Kidderminster and Damask Venetian are the most desirable of these
inferior carpets; the Scotch and common Venetian being used for
school-rooms and servants’ apartments.
These vary much in price, from 2_s._ to 6_s._ per yard.
Druggets are very wide, being sometimes two yards, and sometimes
four yards. They are chiefly employed to lay over another carpet,
to preserve it when the room is in daily use, and only removed for
company. Sometimes druggets alone are laid, and when of a handsome
brown or marone colour, look exceedingly well. They should be very
tightly stretched on the floor, so as not to present a wrinkle to view.
Carpets are often made in worsted-work upon canvass, and are considered
durable, though the time occupied in making them is great.
A worked border upon canvass, with the arms or crest, with drugget
sewed between, has a very pretty effect for a stair carpet, and might
be quickly done. Borders can be purchased in shops for the same purpose.
There are various modes of making up rugs, but as this belongs more
properly to fancy work, it will not here be mentioned.
Rugs may be knit in various ways also, as will be seen in the chapter
upon knitting.
In making up carpets, observe the following directions, as they are
necessary for their appearance and durability.
Brussels, when made up, should be turned with the wrong side outwards,
with the selvages just touching each other, but not laid one upon the
other. The carpet needle is then passed backwards and forwards, always
taking up both seams at a time, first pointing the needle from, and
next towards the chest. Observe, the alternate stitches are always
taken behind, or at the back of the last stitch, so as to work along
the seam from right to left in a kind of back-stitch fashion. The seam
will be close together and tread down flat. Observe, carefully to
cut out the carpet, and sew it up to match the pattern properly and
exactly, as the slightest mistake or pucker will ruin the appearance of
the whole carpet. There is a kind of thread, called carpet thread, sold
for the purpose, of every colour.
Kidderminster and other carpets are sewed in the usual mode of sewing
seams together, taking care to secure the selvages very firmly
together, taking up every thread.
Druggets. These are turned down once, and herring-boned at the edges,
and sewed up at the seams, as above.
All carpets should be bound with the regular carpet binding at the
edges, or the carpet simply turned down with the binding laid on. This
last plan is the flattest, and answers for that end of the room where
the doors are situated, for them to open and shut more easily upon.
Expensive carpets should be cut as little as possible, therefore,
when a piece is obliged to be cut for the hearth stone, it is better
to slit the piece only at the sides, and having caught the edges over
to prevent their ravelling, the piece or lip should then be turned
in underneath the carpet. By this means, if the carpet is wanted for
another room, the lip might be sewed up neatly and form the square
again.
Carpet rods are very useful things, not only for stair-cases, but for
bed-rooms, or sitting-rooms, to fasten and stretch the carpets on the
floor with. In this case, the rod should be a little longer than the
breadth of the carpet, and a Holland or linen case sewed very firmly
underneath the carpet so as just to come to the edge of it, or even
strong tape loops would answer as well. Run the rod along them, and let
it pass at each end into two or more brass rings or hooks fastened to
the floor.
Matting is used for halls, passages, and sometimes laid beneath the
carpets to preserve them. It should always be neatly bound with red,
green, or other coloured leather.
Carpets should always be mended with a loose kind of untwisted worsted,
called thrums.
[Illustration: PLATE 23.
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5
Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8
Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12
Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 13
Fig. 19 Fig. 14
Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 20 Fig. 24]
WINDOW CURTAINS.
PLATE 23.
The drapery for window curtains, if for sitting-rooms, is generally
attached to one cornice, whether for two, three, or even four windows;
but for bed-rooms, the drapery is always separately hung. Observe for
bed-rooms, that the window curtains should always accord with the
hanging on the bed, both in colour and material, as also in shape.
Those hangings already drawn for bed furniture will be a sufficient
pattern by which to form the corresponding window curtains, therefore
but a few additional patterns for bed-rooms will be explained.
It is desirable to have as little window drapery as possible to family
or secondary rooms, particularly nurseries and servants’ rooms, on
account of their liability to catch fire, especially as toilet tables
are so often situated within the window. In an upper story, curtains
might be dispensed with, using only the valance and corners.
Windows have generally two brass pins or hooks on each side, over which
the curtains are hung or looped.
Curtains should always be cut six or eight nails longer than the length
of the window, to allow for their touching the ground when looped upon
the pin. For a window of three panes, two breadths are sufficient in
each curtain, but for four or five panes, two and a half, or three
breadths, will be necessary for each. They should be often dusted, and
in hot summers, bed-room and even sitting-room curtains might be taken
down and put by till wanted for winter, as the sun fades and makes them
look shabby.
PLATE 23. FIG. 1.
This is very handsome for a sitting-room, or even for a drawing-room, a
kind of straight valance is put behind a rod, to which a deep fringe is
sewed. The curtains with tassels sewed to them at the top, draw along
the rod with large rings. A lace may be laid down the curtains, at one
nail from the edge: this curtain in green and gold looks very handsome.
PLATE 23. FIG. 2.
This style is more suited to a sitting-room or bed-room, being rather
too heavy for a drawing-room.
The cornice is of mahogany or painted wood, to which a plain valance,
cut selvage-way, is fastened. This valance is either scolloped,
vandyked, or cut in any other form at the bottom, and a pattern in
cut velvet or lace is sewed on at the edge, and also at about a nail
above it. Two plain corners are cut, and with the curtains, are also
ornamented at one nail from the edge, with the same decoration as the
valance.
PLATE 23. FIG. 3.
This is very neat for a bed-room, or for a common sitting-room, but
unless of very handsome materials, might be considered too plain for a
best room. To a mahogany cornice is fastened a straight valance, cut
down the selvage, and shaped according to the Plate, or otherwise,
according to taste. It must be bound with another coloured binding, and
handsome tassels sewed on at each point.
PLATE 23. FIG. 4.
This is a very handsome drapery for any room, and is simply a festoon
thrown over a pole, as before explained, with double corners. Fringe
and lace add to the finish.
PLATE 23. FIG. 5.
This is suitable for gothic windows, or for a study or library, it is
very simple, and may be formed to any shape, according to the style of
the room.
The corners are in a piece with the valance, and are cut down the
selvage; a pattern of cut velvet may be laid on at the corners, to give
it relief.
PLATE 23. FIG. 6.
This is a handsome drapery for a drawing or dining-room, and might be
adapted to any number of windows, by continuing the lower cornice, and
providing one or more upper rods, in addition to the one represented in
the Plate. The corners should reach more than half way down the window,
but the middle double piece should be much shorter. Lace and tassels
are required to finish the whole.
The cornice may be black, with brass ends, or entirely brass.
PLATE 23. FIG. 7.
Another very pretty festoon, and suitable for a drawing-room or
elsewhere. The middle part is a festoon, with a point attached to it,
and, on this account, would require two breadths instead of one and a
half, to form the depth required.
PLATE 23. FIG. 9.
This is a beautiful drawing-room window festoon, and requires a more
ornamental brass cornice than usual.
The festoons are all very simple, being cut out as before explained,
excepting that the corners are longer than ordinary, being looped upon
a high curtain pin, so that the ends must be sloped off from one-third,
instead of one half of the material.
Sometimes with three windows, the two inner curtains of the outer
windows are simply muslin, and the middle window has two of muslin, as
well as of the material.
PLATE 23. FIG. 8.
Passage or church windows are generally circular, unless pointed;
in the former case, they should be hung at the top with a piece of
straight material of the depth of half the diameter of the circle,
and sufficiently long to be a little fulled to the outer part of the
circle. The inner part is gathered to a point in the middle; the
curtains simply hang to the rod, ornamented by a little frill, valance,
fringe, or tassels, as taste may direct.
There are many ways of drawing curtains together, but the one now
most adopted is that of bringing them forwards or backwards by means
of one string which at once draws both curtains; the following is an
explanation.
PLATE 23. FIG. 10.
Let A B represent the two rods under the cornice, and behind, or
concealed by the valance. After putting the rings of each curtain upon
its own rod, tie the cord to the ring, No. 1, and pass across through
the rings marked No. 2, over the side pulley of the window, down the
side, C, round the pulley, D, up the side again, and under the top
pulley, and then take it across above the rings, till it comes to
the first ring, No. 1, when it is also passed through it and all the
others towards E, it is next taken round the pulley, H, and outside
the rings, and fastened to the ring, No. 2, in a hard knot.
PLATE 23. FIG. 11.
This is an old fashioned simple curtain still in use in churches, small
houses, and for housekeepers’ rooms. The curtain is in as many breadths
as is required for the width of the window, and of the proper length.
The top is nailed to the cornice, and small loops or rings are put down
the seams of the breadths, at equal distances (say about four nails
from each other). Through these rings are passed cords which unite in
one long cord, and on pulling this cord, the whole curtain draws up,
forming as many festoons as there are breadths, or rather lengths of
rings down it. This cord must be wound round and round two pins or
hooks placed at the side of the window, at about six nails apart.
Other curtains are passed backwards and forwards like bed-curtains, or
have a cord on each side, to draw them separately; in which case, it is
passed through all the rings, being fastened to the last or innermost
ring.
MUSLIN CURTAINS.
These are put within the outer curtains in drawing-rooms, dining-rooms,
and sometimes even for bed-rooms. They serve as a great shade to the
best curtains, both from dust and sun, and have besides a neat, clean,
and rather dress appearance. Many persons take down their chintz
curtains when they put up muslin ones.
Muslin curtains are generally made of book-muslin, though sometimes
mull or jaconet have been employed. They are made with deep hems and
rings at the top, and so arranged as to fall towards the inside of the
window. Curtains are sometimes knit or net of cotton, they look very
neat and pretty, and are besides very durable.
LITTLE HALF CURTAINS.
PLATE 23.
These are much in use for the lower windows of town houses, to prevent
persons from looking into the rooms, and are generally made to reach
half way up to the second pane, or merely to the first. They are made
of muslin, or a kind of canvass, and sometimes, though very rarely of
chintz.
FULL CURTAIN.
PLATE 23. FIG. 12.
This is simply cut in as many breadths as wanted to full it to the
window, a frill is made near the top by turning down a nail or more,
and making a runner, into which the tape is run, to draw it up to the
size required, this tape is looped at each end and fastened on to two
hooks at the sides.
ROD CURTAIN.
PLATE 23. FIG. 13.
This is a favourite and very neat pattern, and is made by sewing six or
more breadths together according to the size of the window, of eight or
ten nails deep. They are hemmed at the top and bottom, and two gilt or
wooden rods are passed through the hems, fulling the curtain well upon
them, after which, the rods exactly fit into the window frames.
PLATE 23. FIG. 14.
By way of variety these rods are sometimes put in at the sides, instead
of top and bottom.
PLATE 23.
Sometimes these curtains are fixed in a frame, exactly to fit the width
of the window, in which case they are often starred like a bed foot
board, and look exceedingly neat and pretty.
WINDOW BLINDS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 15.
These are generally made of linen or long lawn, and sometimes of
Holland, calico, painted print, green canvass or gauze, or calimanco.
If possible, procure the material of the exact breadth of the window,
allowing for a good turning in, to herring-bone down, as blinds wear
and set far better without seams, and with the side herring-boned.
They should have tape loops or a case for the rod to slip in, and not
be nailed on, as the blind is so apt to wear and tear when taken off
for washing. Sometimes a small ring is fastened to the blind at the
bottom on each side, through which a cord runs, and is nailed tightly
top and bottom of the window, this contrivance always makes the blind
draw up straightly. A hem is made at the bottom, to admit of the stick,
and a cord and tassel generally fastened to the middle, by which it may
be drawn down. A cord moving round a pulley at the top, and a window
crank at the bottom, enable it to be drawn up and down at pleasure.
CHAIR, SOFA, AND OTHER COVERS.
When chairs and sofas are fitted up with damask, merino, stuff, horse
hair, or other material that does not wash, they are generally covered
with Holland, chintz, or glazed calico, which protects them from dust
and dirt, and are easily removed, when required for company. Holland
covers are the most durable, but look cold; chintz, unless very strong,
should be lined with thin glazed calico. The cover should be made
exactly to fit the chair or sofa, with or without piping at the edge,
and with loops sewed on three of the sides underneath, and a pair
of strings on the fourth side; the cover is firmly fastened down by
passing one of the strings through the three loops, and making it tie.
Ottomans generally have the covers to fit along beneath the edging of
wood, in which case, they must be pinned to the stuffing with very
strong pins, which from their length are called sofa pins.
ARM CHAIRS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 16.
It is a good plan to make a kind of case of Holland to fit half way
down the cushion, A B C D, which protects the cover from being soiled
by the head, on leaning back. Each arm chair should have two or three
of these cases for wash and wear.
SOFAS.
These, besides being covered, should have a length of Holland of one
breadth, and about one yard, or more long, for the feet of any person
lying down to be placed upon.
Where there is an invalid in the house, constantly resting upon the
sofa, it is very desirable to make a little flat pillow, put into a
muslin cover, frilled all round, to lay the head upon, thus keeping the
cushions perfectly clean and neat.
DIVAN.
PLATE 23. FIG. 17.
This is a kind of long sofa, without either back or sides, and may be
made to open, which forms a very convenient box for large engravings,
drawings, &c., &c. The cover should be all in one piece behind, but in
front, and at the sides, the top should be unconnected with the lower
part, to admit of its opening, so that in fact, the cover must look
as much like a box that opens as possible; loops sewed to the edge
might fix it into some hooks inside. These divans are very useful for
bed-rooms, and would hold bonnets or furs, or mourning, or any thing
else, and at the same time, act as a sofa also.
FOOTSTOOLS AND HASSOCKS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 18.
These are made in various ways, and may be got up very cheaply at
home. The most simple and one of the prettiest for a bed-room or even
a sitting-room is a cloth or velvet hassock braided over, or otherwise
ornamented. It is cut circular both top and bottom, a straight side is
sewed in between, and ears or handles fastened on, by which they may be
carried. These are very soft for young children to sit upon.
ANOTHER KIND.
This is made of two or four bricks tied firmly together, wrapped round
with strong sacking, and then neatly covered with cloth, and if not in
good shape a little extra stuffing may be added. These footstools are
very useful for nurseries, school-rooms, or for servants at work.
CHURCH BASSES.
PLATE 23. FIG. 20.
Flat circular ones are often in use. Sometimes straw ones are covered
with green or crimson cloth, and look very neat. Basses may be filled
with mill-puff, straw, chaff, bran, or bits of cloth, &c. Some persons
prefer a simple cushion or flat pillow to kneel upon, in which case,
they may be filled with feathers.
CHURCH SEATS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 24.
Church pews are generally lined with cloth, and fastened by brass nails
and binding laid on. The cushions, Plate 23, Fig. 24, are oblong, and
made like a very soft mattress.
They have pieces of cloth, bound round and sewed to them in front, to
give an air of comfort and neatness to the seat.
The ground or floor is generally covered with a drugget of the same
colour as the lining of the seat.
TABLE COVERS.
These may be made variously at home, or else cloth or linen covers may
be procured at the mercers’ shops. Those made at home are generally of
cloth or silk, and sometimes, though very rarely, of satin or velvet.
Cloth ones are generally bound with binding, and a lace laid on at a
nail from the edging. Velvet, cut in leaves or patterns, is sometimes
laid on; different kinds of coloured cloth, cut in the shape of oak
leaves, or according to taste, sewed on round the edge look very
pretty. Patchwork of silks on a black ground also looks handsome.
SCREENS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 21.
These may be made by merely hemming a piece of rich silk at the top,
through which a rod is passed, which is secured to the pole of the
screen. The bottom of this silk is hemmed neatly and has a deep fringe
set on. The silk should be a good deal fulled, when on the rod, to look
handsome.
Others are made by plaiting or fluting rich silk in straight lines,
Fig. 22, or to radiate from the centre, which is confined within a
frame of rosewood or mahogany.
Large folding screens are made for putting near to doors, to prevent
draughts of air, and are useful to place near a warm bath, especially
for infants or delicate persons, so as to enable them to dress free
from cold air: small screens of two folds are very convenient to place
by every washing stand, when two persons occupy the same room. The
frames, after being made by a carpenter, should be finished up at home.
They are usually covered with canvass, Holland, calimanco, chintz,
twill, or other material. Black Holland looks very neat. These screens
make very good scrap books for children, by being pasted over with
riddles, prints, caricatures, &c., &c.
CHAPTER IX.
ON COVERS, CASES, &c., &c.
NIGHT-GOWN BAG.
PLATE 24. FIG. 1.
This is made of Holland, calico, or thick cambric, or glazed muslin,
and sometimes trimmed all round with a frill, or piped with coloured
calico. It is intended to contain the night-gown, cap, also the
dressing-gown, and perhaps a change of linen, and the tidy or
dressing-case, and may be made to any size, according to the number of
things it is intended to contain.
Its chief use is in travelling, especially in a large family, when the
separate case, containing each individual’s night things are easily
found together, and as easily put up in a large carpet bag. Each bag
should bear either the name or the initials of the person to whom it
belongs.
A TRAVELLING DRESSING-CASE OR TIDY.
PLATE 24. FIG. 3.
These are most useful things, and no one who has once used them will
travel without them, unless they can conveniently carry a dressing-case
with them.
They are made of Russia duck, ticking, or stamped cloth, or any other
firm material.
In making up, the greatest exactness is required to make the parts
fit truly. The back, which is all in one piece, is lined with strong
calico, and the various pockets are then laid on, the bottom of one
being sewed a little below where the top of the next will come, so
that the whole has a neat appearance: the sizes of the pockets, given
in the Plate, allow for this wrapping over. The top of each pocket is
bound with purple or other coloured galloon, and the divisions for the
smaller ones are formed by stitching a piece of narrow galloon neatly
down upon them. The whole is then bound round with galloon, and strings
of the same colour fastened to the pointed end, so as to tie round the
dressing-case when it is full. As purple galloon will wash well, it is
best for this purpose, as most other colours fade. On each pocket is
written with marking ink, the name of the article to be contained in
it; these of course differ according to the fancy of the owner, but
the most usual are curl papers in the triangular pocket at the top, H
for hair-pins, W for thread, tapes, buttons, &c., S for soap, P for
tooth-powder, T for tooth-brush, which ought also to be enclosed in an
oil silk bag; C for comb, and B for hair brush.
[Illustration: PLATE 24.
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10
Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13
Fig. 14 Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19 Fig. 20
Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26
Fig. 34 Fig. 27 Fig. 28
Fig. 36 Fig. 35 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31
Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 39 Fig. 40 Fig. 32 Fig. 33
Fig. 42 Fig. 43 Fig. 41
Fig. 44 Fig. 45 Fig. 46 Fig. 49 Fig. 50
Fig. 53 Fig. 47 Fig. 48 Fig. 51 Fig. 52]
GLOVE CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 4.
Gloves easily become soiled, if not covered carefully, and as white
gloves, coloured, and black should be kept in separate cases, it is
better to make bags for the express purpose of keeping them nicely. It
is also advantageous to buy several pairs at once, as they are cheaper
when sold by the dozen or half dozen.
For ladies’ gloves, take a strip of the material, about four nails
wide, and five nails and a quarter long, and pipe or bind it all round
with coloured glazed calico, or ribbon; cut another strip, one nail
and three-quarters wide, and nine nails long, this is also piped and
bound; the ends may be finished according to fancy, either left square,
rounded off, or turned down to form a triangle. Crease both strips in
half their length, and lay the middle of the first strip crosswise upon
the middle of the other, so that the longest piece lies underneath,
after pinning them very evenly together, stitch them firmly with small
stitches in the piping, so as not to be seen. Strings, or a button and
button-hole are fixed to the ends of the longest strip.
White gloves may be put between the two strips and the coloured ones
above, when they are laid in, fold the side of the smallest piece over
first, then the long one, and button it together.
On the outside mark the name, and the colour of the gloves.
Gentlemen’s glove cases vary only in being larger.
POCKET HANDKERCHIEF CASE, COMMONLY CALLED PORTE MOUCHOIR.
PLATE 24. FIG. 5.
This is usually made of silk, and is lined with muslin or sarsenet,
having perfume between the silk and the lining, and when put in ladies
drawers, with the handkerchiefs laid in, gives them an agreeable scent.
It consists either of one or two pockets, generally the latter, so that
in folding up, the case is merely doubled over.
The case is about four nails wide, and if intended for double pockets,
nine nails and a half long, each pocket being full four nails, and
allowing half a nail for turnings in, and a nail space between them,
cut out the lining, and two pieces of fine muslin the same size, and
lay them as follows:—
First the silk, next one piece of muslin, then sprinkle the scent
freely all over it, after which place the other piece of muslin, and
then the lining, pin them evenly, and run them round at the edges.
Quilt it or not, according to pleasure.
The quilting keeps the scent in place; the ends are turned up the two
nails on each side, and the whole is bound with ribbon. Sometimes
the initials of the owner are marked on the outside. For a suitable
perfume, see Receipt, No. 14.
SHOE OR BRUSH AND COMB BAG.
PLATE 24. FIG. 6.
These are very convenient in travelling, as they save much paper, and
take up little room, they are made of different materials, according
to the shoe to be put in. If for walking shoes, a coarse brown canvass
called earn, is the most suitable. For house shoes, calico or Holland,
and for satin slippers, old silk. The bags are made to draw up at one
end in the usual way, and should be just wide enough to contain the
shoes, but as they are useful to put in one’s muff, or to carry in the
hand when going out to dine or spend the day, it is as well to leave
sufficient space at the top for a pair of stockings above the shoe. The
name of the owner, and the quality of the shoe, should be put outside.
ANOTHER SHOE BAG.
PLATE 24. FIG. 15.
This is a better shape for large shoes or ladies’ boots, as they
lie flatter when packed in separate pockets. The bag is therefore
back-stitched up the middle, and a button put on for the upper flap to
button upon.
A MAT.
PLATE 24. FIG. 7.
These are very useful to put on handsome tables, or to use as kettle
holders. They are made with wool, which forms a fringe similar to that
on a rug. Procure a piece of coarse flannel, the size wanted for the
mat, which must be hemmed or herring-boned down to make it firm at
the edges. Choose a mesh of the width required for the depth of the
fringe, and then after fastening the wool at one of the outer corners,
commence working by carrying the wool round the mesh and fastening the
loop thus made by a cross-stitch to the flannel. Observe always to work
along the thread, to keep it straight, and make the fringe lie very
much thicker at the corners. Continue working, never fastening off,
letting the second square be about four or five threads from the outer
one, and connected at the corners to the outer square by fringe added
diagonally. This makes the comers full and handsome. When the fringe is
all sewed on, fasten off, and then proceed to cut the fringe neatly all
round, and with the scissors spread it out, or comb it, to make it look
rich and full. Afterwards procure some stiff muslin or buckram and tack
it behind, and then sew on neatly the silk or glazed calico lining, and
the mat is complete.
BOOT BAGS.
PLATE 24. FIG. 8.
These are very useful for gentlemen whose boots take much room when
wrapped in paper, which they often burst, and soil the clean linen; a
boot when packed is generally rolled up from the top about half the
leg, the bag should be made to fit it when thus rolled, and is on an
average, about the following size:—
The width at the top of the case, about three nails.
The width at the bottom, about five nails.
The length of the case when doubled, about four nails in
front, sloped down at the top to three nails and a quarter.
NURSERY BAG.
This is used by nurses while travelling, and is very convenient for
the purpose of carrying infants’ soiled linen. The bag should be of
dark coloured silk, or washing material, made in two divisions, and
lined throughout with oiled silk, or Indian rubber cloth, so as to be
waterproof. They should be six nails wide, and five or six nails deep.
The oil-silk bag should be made to draw out of the silk or outer bag.
The one pocket or division holds the soiled linen, and the other pocket
contains a damp sponge.
BOOK COVER.
PLATE 24. FIG. 5.
Bibles or other valuable books are often covered with cloth, leather,
wash leather, Holland, &c., and for books in every day use it is far
better than wrapping them in paper. Purple or claret coloured cloth
looks very handsome, and when bound with ribbon, ribbon strings, and
the initials marked outside, it looks finished and particularly neat.
The case is merely a long piece of cloth of the width of the book, and
of such a length as to lie outside, and turn in a piece to cover the
inside of each flap with the book shut about two-thirds of the way.
The book, when shut, takes more than when open, therefore it should be
measured when shut.
ANOTHER BOOK CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 9.
This is a simple cover made usually of leather or Holland. One piece is
sufficient to go before and behind the book, allowing an extra piece
for a flap to turn over. Two strips for side-pieces complete the case.
If of leather, the pieces are back-stitched neatly together; but if of
Holland, &c., the sides are bound up with ribbon.
ANOTHER BOOK CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 10, 11.
This is made with a regular lid, as in the drawing, and buttons over.
Fig. 11 has fly pieces or bits, to lay over the book, but beneath the
outer flap or lid.
A TRUNK CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 12.
This is made of coarse sacking or earn, and is most useful for covering
large trunks, and is composed simply of two lengths of the stuff, laid
one across the other, and stitched firmly together, exactly where they
fall upon each other, forming an oblong or square of back-stitching, as
in the Plate, of the size of the bottom of the trunk. Four holes should
be made in one of the sides, on which the direction card may be more
easily fastened (see A).
The ends are turned down with a broad hem, and button-holes made on the
hems of the two ends, B and C, and at two or more nails from the hem at
the opposite sides. In packing up the trunk, it is simply laid upon the
back-stitched square of the sacking, and the sides being turned up, two
at a time, they are laced up with cord, without the trouble of getting
a packing needle and sewing it up every time.
A KNIFE OR FORK CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 13.
This is usually made of green baize, and is used for wrapping up knives
and forks (both steel and dessert or silver), when not in daily use.
The knives are put in one case and the forks in another. These cases
are made out of half or a whole breadth of the baize, according to the
width. After cutting sufficient length to hold six or twelve knives,
allowing at one end enough to tie over, cut it at the top straight from
A to B, which is to turn over as a side flap, and shape the rest from
B to C, in a semi-circular form. Cut another long strip of baize, half
the width of from B to C, lay it along and stitch it down at proper
equal distances, and when done, bind it along the outer edge, and all
round the case. The knives are then put in, with the blades between the
pieces of baize. The flap turns over the handles, the whole rolls up,
and is finally tied round with strings, sewed at the circular end.
A SACHET OR CARD CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 14.
This is very similar in shape to the porte mouchoir, excepting that
four little gores or hinges are put in at the sides of the pockets,
to enable it to open wider and contain more cards (see A). This hinge
should be creased in two, after being sewed in, and when once creased
_well_, will always set properly. They are made of morocco paper, silk,
rich satin, or velvet. A piece of flannel or demet may be put between
the outside and the lining. They are sometimes embroidered or braided
round the edge, with the initials or crest put in the middle. A cord or
twist is sometimes put round the edge, to give a finish.
A CANDLESTICK CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 16.
Covers for bed-room candlesticks, teapots, cream jugs, sugar basins,
dish covers, salvers, and indeed all plated or silver articles may
either be made to the shape or circular. The advantage of the latter
plan is, that by hemming it round and putting in a string, it will
draw up and suit any shaped article, whereas cases made to fit one
particular article will do for no other.
A NOSEGAY CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 17.
Flowers, especially geraniums, are apt sadly to injure the dress and
waistband when worn; it is therefore very useful to put flower stalks
in a kind of case, similar to a scissors sheath, which protects the
dress completely. It should be cut out of card-board, in the shape of a
wide scissors sheath, and covered all over with silk.
A WOOL CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 18.
This is made of thin muslin or of Holland, and is most useful for
holding and preserving wools. It is made something like a housewife,
having runners for the wool, side by side. The wools should be put in
in shades and numbered; each colour might have six or seven shades
allowed, so that it would require a long piece to admit three or four
colours, with their various shades. The flaps at both ends turn over,
the whole rolls up when not in use, and ties round.
ANOTHER WOOL CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 34, 35.
This is made to resemble thread papers, and is usually formed of
muslin. It is plaited along, or doubled, like Fig. 35, and all the
doubles sewed along together, thus forming a bunch of runners, for the
wool to be drawn through.
A HOUSEWIFE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 19, 20, 21.
This is made of leather, stamped paper, silk, ribbon, satin, velvet,
white dimity, Holland, or any other material, even common print.
Two pieces, the size of A B C D, are first of all cut out and
back-stitched along, to form the thread runners, after which, another
piece, E F G H, is cut out, and the places for the scissors, bodkin,
&c. made, and then a long strip is cut, not only sufficient for the
whole length, but to turn over at the end to form a pocket. The other
pieces are neatly bound to it, and the flannel or kerseymere for
needles is added. The initials may be put at the sloped end. The case
may wrap up like Fig. 19 or 20.
A YARD MEASURE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 21, 22.
This is very convenient, from the small compass in which it goes, when
folded up. It is similar to a carpenter’s rule in shape, and is marked
with nails on one side and inches on the other.
PINCUSHIONS.
PLATE 24. FIG. 23, 24, 25, 26, 27.
Pincushions may be made of every variety of shape and material, and
stuffed with bran, wool, hair, flannel, chaff, &c., &c.
Fig. 23 makes a very nice toilet pincushion, and is circular at the
top, with a deep length sewed all round, which is hemmed at the bottom;
it draws neatly beneath the cushion, and ties firmly on it.
Fig. 24 is very neat for a toilet pincushion, and is made to button and
unbutton from beneath.
Fig. 25. Another very neat toilet pincushion, made with a fringe or
frill round it.
Sometimes the cushion is of glazed calico or coloured silk, and the
cover of muslin, with a handsome worked edging all round. These are
very handsome for spare rooms, but too good for daily use. The colour
of the cushion ought to correspond with the paper or drapery of the
room.
Fig. 26 is a flat pocket pincushion, and may be circular, square,
diamond, oblong, or any other shape.
Cut out the form in two cards, both of which are covered with silk.
Flannel is put between, and the two sides neatly sewed together.
Fig. 27 is a drawing-room pincushion, usually made of silk or satin,
and is tufted like a mattress with bows or tufts of silk. Bows are
attached to all the corners.
BAGS.
PLATE 24. FIG. 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33.
Bags are made of silk, satin, velvet, and many other materials, and are
almost always lined; in which case, they are done in a similar manner
to sleeves.
There is a great variety of shapes, and they are trimmed with fringe,
lace, ribbon, silk cord, &c., &c.
The Figures represent the shapes most in use at present, and need
little description.
Fig. 32 is a double bag, being two pockets or bags, which, being sewed
together up the sides and along the bottom, form a third pocket between
them, which may either be left open, or have a regular silk bag sewed
above.
In one pocket may be kept pencil, knife, Indian rubber, and other
writing materials; in the other, money, bills, memoranda, &c.; and in
the middle part, scissors, thimble, cotton, and other materials for
work.
NEEDLE CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 36.
This is made of a strip of kerseymere, one nail and a quarter wide,
which is marked out in the required number of divisions, to separate
the different sized needles from each other. Each space between the
divisions should be half or three-quarters of a nail, so that the
length of the strip must depend upon the number and size of these
divisions. After fixing upon the length and width, cutting off the
strip, and marking in pencil the lines for the divisions, work over
the lines in chain-stitch in silk, or lay on braid, marking at the top
of each space, the number of the needles to be put in; then bind the
kerseymere down with some broad ribbon, which serves likewise for the
back of the case. This ribbon should be stiff and rich, and when turned
over the edges of the kerseymere, should be back-stitched down very
neatly. The end of the strip is usually rounded, as in the Plate, and
the initials worked on. Ribbons, or a button and loop are attached to
the end, to fasten it up by.
WORK BASKET.
PLATE 24. FIG. 37.
These are very pretty, light, and useful. Purchase a suitable size, of
the shape of the pattern, about twelve inches long, eight wide, and
three and a half deep, or smaller, are the usual sizes. As they look
neater and keep better when painted, it is advisable to send them to
the coach-maker’s to be coloured the shade desired (the darker, the
more handsome); when quite dry, procure a good silk of a suitable
colour, and also satin ribbon to match, of two-thirds of a nail wide,
and line the basket, putting first muslin, and then a layer of fine
flannel, and afterwards silk. It should be made exactly to fit, and
be quilted in some pretty pattern all over, after which, the satin
ribbon, neatly quilled, is sewed round at the top. Sometimes ladies put
little pockets or bags all round, to contain a knife, scissors, money,
pincushion, &c.
TRAVELLING BAG.
PLATE 24. FIG. 38.
A travelling bag is very useful for ladies, when taking long journeys,
especially when they are fond of working or sketching while in the
carriage.
The Fig. represents both sides of the bag complete, excepting that it
requires the sides to be sewed up. It is thus laid open, or unsewed, in
order to explain the plan more clearly.
The bag should be made of rich strong silk, and on one side pockets are
made to contain as follows:—
A. Needle-book or housewife.
B. Scissors.
C. Work and cotton.
D. Pocket for money.
E. Ditto for watch, or gold, &c.
On the other side, the pockets are as follows:—
F. For a note book, or journal.
G. For two pencils.
H. Sketch book.
I. Rules.
J. Knife.
A piece of Indian rubber is fastened to a bit of galloon and confined
to one end of the bag. The pockets should be put in rather lower from
the top than is represented in the Plate, else the bag will not close
neatly, when the strings are drawn.
SCHOOL GIRL’S BADGE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 39.
This band is made of webbing, black tape, calimanco, or any other firm
material.
To the middle of the band is attached a square piece of pasteboard, or
tin covered with flannel and calimanco, on which the girl’s number is
marked.
On this band are put several strings of galloon or tape, to which
are tied scissors, keys, pincushion, &c. A simple band of Holland,
or tape would be very useful for servants, especially housekeepers,
lady’s maids, and house-maids, to attach the keys belonging to their
department, also scissors, cushion, pencil, &c. These bands might have
button-holes, or large oylet-holes worked in them, to receive the
ribbons to which the things are attached, and they should be made to
button neatly behind.
Shoulder-straps might be added of the same material.
CARRIAGE CASE, OR PORTE FOLIO.
PLATE 24. FIG. 40.
This is very useful for those ladies who drive about constantly in a
town, and who have much shopping, or many calls, &c. to make.
The left hand side of the case marked A, is a porte folio to carry
paper, bills, &c. with a long pencil at the side, which, when the
book or case is shut, secures the two sides together, by being passed
through the loops.
The other side is made with two pockets above, at B, for visiting
cards, one pocket below C, for a rule, and crossed narrow ribbons
between, to hold bills, &c. in. This case may be made of leather,
cloth, or stamped paper, and should be laid on millboard, or pieces of
tin to form the sides.
TRAVELLING PORTE FOLIO.
PLATE 24. FIG. 41.
This is convenient for travelling, when there is not sufficient room
for a desk; it is made of card or book board, and covered with black
silk or paper. Under the part marked A, is a porte folio for paper, the
two parts being connected together by means of a wide ribbon all round.
The four flaps lay over and tie across with ribbon. On the part, A, are
places for sealing wax, pencil, pens, knife and paper knife, all in
one, and at the corner a piece of ribbon sewed on in a circle, and made
to draw up like a bag, to contain wafers.
SEAMAN’S OR TRAVELLER’S CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 42, 43.
This sort of case is very useful for men in all classes when
travelling, and for school boys, and is usually made of Russia duck,
or of leather; it is one yard long, and about one nail and a half or
two nails wide. The pockets and thread-case must all be prepared before
sewing them to the back. A is divided, according to the Plate, for the
thread case as in a housewife, it is about four nails long, and has
two flaps, C and B, at the ends, to keep the thread neat. The flap,
C, is finished inside, as seen in Fig. 43, with boot hooks, &c., &c.
The thread should be strong white, strong black, whitey brown, carpet
thread, pack thread, and other kinds, also white and black silk.
D is a square pincushion with divisions for scissors, tweezers,
stiletto, &c. Inside this pocket should slip a needle-book and sticking
plaister case, both in one; the flaps of E F G H, all hook and eye down
to their respective pockets, which contain fish-hooks, buttons, hooks
and eyes, &c., &c.
GENTLEMAN’S TRAVELLING DRESSING-CASE.
PLATE 24. FIG. 44.
This is made of leather of any length, according to the number of
things put in. It should be the width of the longest of the articles
to be put in (say the razors). A row of divisions of the proper sizes
are made by a strap of leather carried all along the case in which the
razor strop, boot hooks, razors, scissors, knife, tweezers, pencil,
tooth brush case, shaving brush, and soap case are put. The flaps fold
over, and the whole wraps up and ties round. The articles should be
bought before the case is made, as the divisions can then be formed
exactly to fit.
WATCH POCKET.
PLATE 24. FIG. 45.
These may be made of silk or cambric muslin. The one here represented
is composed of one large and two small pockets, the latter are to
hold the watch and smelling bottle, and the large pocket is for the
handkerchief. The large pocket is supported by three runners of
whalebone or ribbon wire. These should be put in so as easily to draw
out, if the watch pocket is of a washing material. Whalebone is also
put at the top of each of the three pockets.
The whole should be frilled round or ornamented with narrow lace or
fringe. The size must greatly depend upon the size of the bed, but five
nails long by four deep is a good average size for a large bedstead.
ANOTHER WATCH POCKET.
PLATE 24. FIG. 46.
This is the usual shape, and intended merely to contain the watch.
They may be made of silk, dimity, ribbon, or any other material. Some
are composed of bed-ticking, which is worked in the light stripe with
coloured silk in chain-stitch, herring-boning, or any other fancy
stitch. They are ornamented round with fringe, lace, or frilling.
AN INVALID’S CHAIR.
PLATE 24. FIG. 47.
This is very convenient for carrying invalids about when they have lost
the use of their legs, especially for conveying them down steps, to the
carriage, &c.
The two outer pieces of wood should be of beech or some other strong
kind, to which handles may be attached. These pieces of wood are
connected together by four or more pieces of very strong double
webbing, between which three strips of strong wood are firmly secured.
When used, a simple cushion is put upon this webbing, and two servants,
one on each side, can carry it with ease and safety. When not in use,
it can be rolled up in a very little compass.
It is particularly useful for invalids while travelling.
CHAPTER X.
RECEIPTS.
The following receipts have all been tried either by the Authoress
herself, or by her immediate friends, and are thoroughly to be depended
upon.
A few have been introduced not immediately connected with the
work-book, but from their value, no apology is necessary for their
insertion.
No. 1.
PERMANENT INK FOR MARKING LINEN.
1 ounce, 5 drachms, 1 scruple of lunar caustic nitrate of silver,
2 ounces of gum arabic, powdered,
1 pint of distilled water,
½ an ounce of sap green.
For the liquid pounce with which the linen is wetted, previously to the
application of the ink, mix
4 ounces of carbonate of soda,
2 ounces of powdered gum arabic,
1 pint of distilled water,
and a little cochineal, to colour it.
In marking linen, after applying the liquid pounce with a common small
bristle brush, to the part which is to receive the mark, and wetting
it very well, let it dry by the fire, and then after rubbing it with a
glass calender or glazing stone, to make it smooth, mark it with a fine
hard steel pen. It should then be exposed to the air, which makes the
letters turn quite black. The place should be washed soon after it is
dry, as the liquid pounce injures the linen, if left on it long.
No. 2.
PERMANENT RED MARKING INK.
Take half an ounce of vermillion, and a drachm of salt of steel, let
them be finely levigated with linseed oil to the thickness required.
The mixture must be well shaken before used.
Inks of various colours may be made, by using sap green, Prussian blue,
gamboge, &c. instead of vermillion.
No. 3.
TO REMOVE MARKING INK FROM LINEN.
When linen is erroneously marked or spotted with marking ink, an
application of chloride of lime with either cold or hot water, will
efface it. It should be applied over and over again till the marks are
obliterated; but as the chloride of lime spoils linen, it is advisable
to wash the part well, immediately after each application, so as to
prevent its eating away the linen.
Chloride of lime being poisonous, the mixture should be carefully
thrown away after being used.
No. 4.
TO REMOVE COMMON INK FROM CLOTHES, &c.
Rub the place immediately with lemon juice, and hot soap and water, and
if this does not succeed, have recourse to salts of lemon, which seldom
fails.
No. 5.
SALTS OF LEMON.
They are used to remove ink and iron-moulds from linen, calico, all
articles of dress and furniture, and even from wood, books, &c.
It is made as follows:—
A quarter of a pound of salts of sorrel,
A quarter of a pound of cream of tartar,
Well mixed and rubbed together in a mortar, and it is then
ready for use.
It should be kept locked up, the salts of sorrel being a strong poison.
In using salts of lemon to an inked carpet or table, merely rub it on
with the top of the finger, having previously dipped it in hot water.
If it is a piece of linen, or an article of dress that has been inked,
it is best to stretch it over a pewter or other vessel full of hot
water, and when wetted through with the steam, apply a small quantity
of the salts on the ink or iron-mould, rubbing it well at the same
time with the finger, and a spot will, on repeating the application,
disappear.
No. 6.
TO TAKE OUT INK, WHEN SALTS OF LEMON ARE NOT AT HAND.
Dip the spotted part into some melted tallow from a mould candle. Send
it to the wash thus greased, and it will return clean and white.
Of course this is only applicable to articles that will wash.
No. 7.
TO REMOVE INK FROM CLOTH OR CARPETS.
Take up the ink instantly with a spoon, and pour on water in abundance,
while still applying the spoon constantly, till it is removed; rub
afterwards a bit of lemon upon the place, which will brighten any
colour that may be deadened.
No. 8.
BLEACHING LIQUID
Is used to remove iron-moulds, or restore discoloured linen, and calico
to its former whiteness.
Pour it into a basin, one part of the liquid to six parts of water; the
cloth is dipped into it, allowed to lie in it, and well rubbed, till
the mark is effaced, when the part is washed in clear water.
The bleaching liquid is made as follows:—
A solution of chloride of carbonate of soda; this cannot be procured in
powder, but a preparation of lime in powder can be had, which will do
equally well. Unless much diluted, this is apt to injure the texture of
the linen.
Another receipt for making it is the following:—
Chloride of lime, the powder to be put into water, a part of it will
dissolve, and a part will not; decant the clear fluid, and keep it in a
dark place. The powder is apt to attract moisture from the air, and to
lose its chlorine by exposure, it must be kept in a bottle with a glass
stopper, as it corrodes corks.
No. 9.
TO REMOVE STAINS MADE BY ACIDS.
Wet the part, and lay on it some salt of wormwood; rub it, without
diluting it with more water.
No. 10.
ANOTHER RECEIPT.
Let the cloth imbibe a little water without putting it in, and hold the
part over a lighted match at a proper distance, to avoid its catching
fire. The spots will be removed by the sulphureous gas.
No. 11.
ANOTHER RECEIPT.
Tie up in the stained part, some pearl ash, then scrape some soap into
cold soft water, to make a lather, and boil the linen till the stains
disappear.
No. 12.
TO REMOVE STAINS OF WINE, FRUIT, &c. WHEN THEY HAVE BEEN LONG IN LINEN.
Rub the part on each side with yellow soap, then lay on a mixture of
starch with cold water, very thick, like paste; rub it in well, and
expose the linen to the sun and air till the stain comes out; if not
removed in three or four days, take the starch off, and renew the
process. When dry, sprinkle it again with water, and send it to the
wash.
Many other stains may be taken out by dipping the linen in sour
buttermilk, and drying it in a hot sun, then wash and dry it two or
three times in the day.
No. 13.
TO REMOVE STAINS OF PORT WINE.
Directly the wine is spilt, spread common salt all over the stain, and
wash it with water.
No. 14.
TO TAKE STAINS OUT OF SCARLET CLOTH.
Take soap wort, bruise it, strain out the juice, and add to it a small
quantity of black soap, wash the stains a few times with this liquor,
suffering the cloth to dry between, and in a day or two they will
disappear.
No. 15.
TO TAKE STAINS OUT OF BLACK CLOTH, SILK, CRAPE, &c.
Boil a handful of fig-leaves in two quarts of water, until reduced to
a pint; squeeze the leaves, take them out, and put the liquid into a
bottle for use. The articles need only be rubbed with a sponge dipped
in it, and the stains will soon disappear.
When black is stained by fruit or other acids, the spotted part turns
yellow or red, touch it with a little spirits of hartshorn, which
immediately restores the colour.
No. 16.
SCOURING DROPS
Are used to remove stains and grease from all silks; they are rubbed on
with a bit of flannel, and generally answer perfectly well. They are
prepared as follows:—
Mix equal quantities of spirits of turpentine, and essence of lemons.
No. 17.
TO REMOVE GREASE FROM SILK.
Rub it for some time with a split card, or a piece of cap paper, or if
much greased, lay under it a piece of soft paper, or blotting paper,
and the same over it, and place a warm iron upon it, which causes the
paper to imbibe the grease from the silk; after repeating this, taking
care each time the iron is applied to furnish clean bits of paper, then
rub it with split card, or soft paper. Cloth may be cleaned in the same
way.
Or, dip a clean piece of flannel into spirits of turpentine, and rub
the spots until they disappear; the silk should not be made very wet
with turpentine, or it will lose its lustre.
No. 18.
ANOTHER RECEIPT.
Rub the part with French chalk, or with part of the back of the cuttle
fish scraped, which may be bought at the druggists for one penny each.
No. 19.
LIQUID FOR REMOVING SPOTS OF GREASE, PITCH, OR OIL FROM LINEN AND
CLOTHES.
In a pint of spring water, dissolve an ounce of pure pearl ash, add to
the solution a lemon cut in small slices. This being properly mixed and
kept in a warm state for two days, the whole must be strained, and the
clear liquid kept in a bottle for use.
A little of this mixture being poured on the stained part, removes all
spots of grease, pitch, or oil, and the moment they disappear, the
cloth is washed in clear water.
No. 20.
TO REMOVE GREASE FROM SILK OR WOOLLEN.
Mix together three ounces of spirits of wine, three ounces of French
chalk powdered, and five ounces of pipe clay.
Rub the mixture on the stain, either wet or dry, and afterwards take it
off with a brush.
Sometimes an equal quantity of spirits of turpentine and pipe clay
mixed, and used as above, will have the desired effect.
This will remove stains from silk, woollen or cotton.
No. 21.
PORTABLE BALLS FOR REMOVING GREASE SPOTS.
Dry fuller’s earth so as to crumble easily into powder, and moisten it
well with lemon juice, add a small quantity of pure pulverized pearl
ash, and work the whole up into a thick paste; roll it up into small
balls, let them dry in the heat of the sun, and they will be ready for
use.
The manner of using them is by moistening with water the spots on the
cloth, rubbing the ball upon them, and leaving them to dry in the sun;
on washing the places with water, and very often, with brushing alone,
the spots will disappear.
No. 22.
TO TAKE OUT MILDEW.
Mix soft soap with powdered starch, half as much salt, and the juice of
a lemon. Lay it on the mildewed part, on both sides, with a brush. Let
it lie on the grass day and night till the stain comes out.
No. 23.
TO TAKE OUT IRON-MOULDS.
Rub them with sulphuret of potash; then bathe them well with citric
acid (lemon acid), afterwards wash the places well in water, and the
linens will be completely restored.
No. 24.
TO REMOVE PAINT SPOTS FROM SILK, &c.
Apply spirits of turpentine repeatedly, when the article is silk.
If it is muslin or linen, cover it with butter, and then wash it.
No. 25.
TO CLEAN SILKS AND COTTONS WITHOUT INJURY TO THEIR COLOUR OR TEXTURE.
Grate two or three raw potatoes into a pint of clean water, and pass
the liquid through a sieve, when it has stood to settle, pour off the
clear part, and it will be fit for use.
Dip a clean sponge in the liquid, and apply it to the silk till the
dirt is well separated, then wash it in pure water.
The coarse pulp of the potatoes which does not pass the sieve, is of
great use in cleaning worsted curtains, carpets, and other coarse goods.
No. 26.
TO WASH BLACK SILK AND CRAPE.
Warm some small beer, and mix some milk with it, then sponge the silk
with this liquid, and it will freshen the colour very much.
A strong decoction of fig-leaves, a little gin, or spirits of wine,
will have an equally good effect.
No. 27.
TO RESTORE RUSTY SILK.
Boil some green tea in an iron pot, nearly a cup full of tea to three
quarts of water. Sponge the silk with it, and iron it while damp.
No. 28.
TO CLEAN BOMBAZINE.
Use the liquid mentioned, No. 25, and sponge the bombazine with it, and
then with water, remembering to rub width-wise, not selvage-wise, or
the bombazine will be frayed.
No. 29.
COMPOSITION FOR RESTORING SCORCHED LINEN.
Boil to a consistency two ounces of fuller’s earth, half an ounce of
cake soap, and the juice of two onions, in half a pint of vinegar.
Spread it over the damaged part, and suffer it to dry on, then give it
one or two washings, and if the scorching is not so great as to injure
the threads, the part will appear white and perfect.
No. 30.
TO CLEAN CALICO FURNITURE.
Shake off the loose dust, and slightly brush it with a small long
haired brush; after which, wipe it with clean flannels, and rub it with
dry old bread. If well done, the furniture will look nearly as well as
at first.
Bran is also an excellent cleanser.
While furniture remains up, it should be preserved as much as possible
from sun and air, which injure delicate colours; the dust may be blown
off with bellows.
No. 31.
TO CLEAN CHINTZ.
Chintz may be cleaned as follows:—
Boil two pounds of rice in two gallons of water till it is soft, when
the whole is poured into a tub fit for use.
Wash the chintz till it is quite clean in soap and water, and then
rinse it in the rice water, which will act like starch. In drying, it
must be hung very smoothly, and rubbed with a glazed stone, but not
ironed.
An upper crust of bread or bran, are very good for cleaning also.
No. 32.
TO SCOUR CARPETS.
Shake the carpet well.
Dissolve one ounce and a half of alum in a quart of warm water, also
one ounce and a half of fuller’s earth in another quart of warm water,
put a little of each into a bucket full of soft water, adding a very
little gall, and rubbing in some common brown soap. Then wash a small
piece of the carpet with a flannel dipped in this mixture, so as to
make it rather wet, and to shew the colour, brush it over with soap,
which must be well washed off, and the carpet rubbed over with a coarse
cloth. Then wash it over without soap, and with water in which alum,
gall, and fuller’s earth are mixed, and rub it as dry as possible with
a cloth. When the whole carpet is washed over in this manner, piece by
piece, it will appear as fresh and bright as a new one. The quantities
here given are sufficient for a large sized carpet.
If a carpet is not very much soiled, it may be cleaned by being first
well shook and beaten, and then scoured with gall, and soap and water,
after which, it must be laid on the grass, or hung up to dry.
No. 33.
TO WASH SILK HANDKERCHIEFS.
These must be first washed in cold water, and the second lather must be
only lukewarm, then rinse them in cold water, dry them gradually, and
send them to the mangle.
No. 34.
TO WASH COLOURED MUSLINS, PRINTS, &c.
Coloured muslin, washing silk handkerchiefs and aprons, should have
a little spirits of wine in the water, about a dessert spoonful to a
gallon.
For prints, a little gall will fix the colours; if the principal
colour is lilac, pearl ash put in the water will refresh it. If green
prevails, put in a few half pence.
No. 35.
TO MAKE LINEN WHITE THAT HAS TURNED YELLOW.
Heat a gallon of milk over the fire, and scrape into it one pound of
cake soap, when it is quite dissolved, put the linen in, and let it
boil some time, then take it out, put it into a lather of hot water,
and wash it properly out.
No. 36.
TO MAKE LINEN WASHED IN THE TOWN AS PURE AND WHITE AS THAT WASHED IN
THE COUNTRY.
In great towns where linen cannot be exposed to the air and sun upon
the grass, let it be steeped for some time before it is washed, in a
solution of oxmuriate of lime; let it then be boiled in an alkaline
lye. Linen or cotton thus treated, will not become yellow from age, as
is too often the case with town washed linen.
No. 37.
TO WASH CHINA-CRAPE SCARFS, &c.
Make a strong lather of soap and boiling water, suffer it to cool,
and when nearly cold, wash the scarf quickly and thoroughly; dip it
immediately afterwards into cold hard water, in which a little common
salt has been thrown, to preserve the colours; rinse, wring and hang
it out to dry in the open air; pin it at the extreme ends to the line,
so that it may not be folded together in any part. The more rapidly it
dries the clearer the colour will be.
No. 38.
TO WASH BLONDE.
If the blonde be very narrow, it should be slightly run to the edge
of either net, or old tulle, in order to make it easier to iron, tack
it together in the same way that lace is done, in a length of three
or four nails, and wash it clean, in a light lather of white soap and
water; then put it into a basin in which there is powder blue mixed
with cold water, of a sufficiently deep colour to remove the yellow
tinge of the soiled blonde.
The iron should be getting ready whilst the blonde lies in the blue
water, which must be a few minutes, and it must only be taken out piece
by piece, to be pulled out and ironed whilst it is still damp. The iron
must be moderately warm.
The tulle, which is spoiled by the washing, is then taken off, and the
blonde will be found to have a brightness similar to new.
The following is another method, which has been found to answer equally
well:—
Tack the blonde together as before; prepare a lather of fine white
soap and hot soft water, in which a little powder blue is mixed. Dip
the blonde into this hot water, and squeeze it in the hand, so that
it shall be wetted through and through, it should not be allowed to
remain in the water, lest the blue should settle upon it unequally.
When the colour is restored, take it out, and clap it between the
hands, while still folded, until it is nearly dry, when it must be
opened out, and ironed with a moderately hot iron.
No. 39.
TO WASH LACE.
The best methods of washing fine, and valuable lace, are as follows:—
Take a pint bottle (which is better than a larger one, being more
easily held), wrap a piece of clean muslin or linen round it, and
fasten it with a few stitches, then wind the lace round the bottle,
avoiding the neck, and wash it in a light lather of white soap and
water.
When it appears clean, rinse it in fresh water, and put the bottle in
the sun, or in a warm room, to dry the lace.
On taking it off, pull it out with the first and second finger and
thumb, taking care not to tear it, at the same time to pull it open
to its full width; then lay it between the leaves of a blank book, or
pieces of thin card-board, not allowing one piece to fold over another,
and put it under a weight, till it is properly pressed.
The soap should be cut in thin slices, and boiled in the water, to make
the lather; this is particularly adapted to Mechlin lace.
The following plan is chiefly useful for Valenciennes or Lisle lace, or
for the borders of infants’ caps.
Fold the piece of lace evenly backwards and forwards (not round and
round), the length of about three or four nails, and when done, tack
it together down the middle with long loose stitches; then wash it
thoroughly in a lather of white soap and water, rinsing it repeatedly,
and squeezing it in clear water, then, while still wet, dip it in a
mixture ready prepared of beer and water in equal quantities, let it
remain about a minute, and then wring it out.
It must now be unstitched, and pulled out two or three times, until
nearly dry, this must be done width-wise of the lace, and very
thoroughly. Lay it on a table covered with a linen cloth, and glaze it
with a glass calender, or, if one is not at hand, with a glass phial
bottle.
The beer gives the creamy colour of new lace, and a little stiffness
besides; some persons dip it in water, in which they put a little snuff
tied up in a muslin bag, to colour it, instead of the beer.
Starch should never be put into lace, as it tears and spoils it.
No. 40.
TO WASH KID GLOVES.
Kid gloves, if they are good ones, and have never been touched by
Indian rubber, may be washed so as to look like new, in the following
manner; and some will bear the operation more than once; it answers
equally well both for white and coloured gloves.
Lay the gloves on a clean towel, and with a piece of flannel dipped in
warm water with a good deal of white soap, rub them thoroughly till
all the dirt is removed; take care to use as little water as possible.
Hang them up to dry gradually, at a distance from the fire, and the
next morning, they will appear shrivelled and yellow, pull them out the
cross way of the leather, and they will soon resume their colour and
shape.
No. 41.
TO CLEAN WHITE SATIN SHOES.
Rub them with stale bread. Or rub them with a piece of new flannel
dipped in spirits of wine.
No. 42.
TO KEEP BLONDE, WHITE SATIN, SILK, &c.
The above, and all articles which are apt to be discoloured by lying
by, should be wrapped up and covered with the coarsest brown paper, as
the turpentine contained in it, is an effectual preservation.
No. 43.
TO DYE GLOVES LIKE YORK-TAN OR LIMERICK.
Put some saffron into a pint of soft water boiling hot, and let it
infuse all night; next morning, wet the leather all over with a brush.
The tops should be previously sewed up, to prevent the colour getting
in.
No. 44.
TO DYE WHITE GLOVES TO PURPLE.
Boil four ounces of logwood, and two ounces of rock alum, in three
pints of soft water, till it is half wasted; strain, and let it stand
till cold. Then wet the gloves all over with a brush dipped in this
mixture, and repeat it when dry.
Twice is sufficient, unless the colour is to be very dark. When dry,
rub off the loose dye with a coarse cloth, beat up the white of an egg,
and rub it over the gloves with a sponge.
The hands will be stained in the process of dyeing, but wetting them
with vinegar before they are washed, will take it off.
No. 45.
WASH FOR LEATHER GLOVES.
If you wish to have your gloves quite yellow, take yellow ochre; if
quite white, pipe clay; if between the two, mix a little of each; if
dark, take rotten stone and fuller’s earth.
By a proper mixture of these, you may produce any shade you desire; mix
the colour you fix on with beer or vinegar, _not water_, and apply it
to the gloves, having previously washed them, let them dry gradually,
rub and pull them out crosswise.
After applying the mixture equally all over, let them dry very
gradually, not in the sun or near a fire, lest they should shrink. Rub
and pull them out before they are quite dry.
No. 46.
TO DYE COTTON A NANKEEN COLOUR.
Keep old nails and rusty iron for fifteen days in good vinegar; apply
this dye to the cotton with a brush, it will give an excellent colour,
which improves by washing.
No. 47.
TO DYE THE LININGS OF FURNITURE BUFF OR SALMON COLOUR, ACCORDING TO THE
DEPTH OF THE HUE.
Rub down on a pewter plate two pennyworth of Spanish annatto, and then
boil it in a pail of water a quarter of an hour. Put into it two ounces
of potash, stir it round, and instantly put in the lining; stir it
about all the while it is boiling, which must be five or six minutes;
then put it into cold pump water, and hang the articles up singly
without wringing; when almost dry, fold and mangle it.
PINK.
The calico must be washed extremely clean, and dried. Then boiled in
two gallons of soft water, and four ounces of alum; take it out, and
dry it in the air. In the mean time boil in the alum water two handfuls
of wheat bran, till quite slippery, and then strain it.
Take two scruples of cochineal, and two ounces of argall, finely
pounded and sifted; mix it with the liquor, a little at a time; then
put the calico into the liquor and boil it till it is almost wasted,
moving it about.
Take out the calico, and wash it in chamber lye first, and cold water
after; then rinse it in water, starch, strain, and dry it quickly
without hanging in folds. Mangle it very highly, unless you have it
calendered, which is the best.
BLUE.
Let the calico be washed clean and dried, then mix some of Scott’s
liquid blue in as much water as will be sufficient to cover the things
to be dyed, and put in some starch to give it a light stiffness. Dry a
bit to see if the colour is deep enough; then put the linen, &c. into
it, and wash it; dry the articles singly, and mangle or calender them.
No. 48.
TO CLEAN GOLD AND SILVER LACE.
Sew the lace in linen cloth, and boil it in a pint of water, and two
ounces of soap, then wash it in water.
When it is tarnished, apply a little warm spirits of wine to the
tarnished part.
No. 49.
TO PRESERVE LINEN FROM MOTHS.
When well washed and dried, fold it up, and scatter in the folds
powdered cedar wood, having previously perfumed your chest or drawers
with storax; this will effectually prevent damp or moths from injuring
the linen.
No. 50.
TO PRESERVE WOOLLENS AND BLANKETS.
They should first be properly washed in a lather of soap and water, and
well dried, then pepper must be sprinkled over them before they are
folded up and put away.
It is a good plan to keep them in brown paper bags.
No. 51.
TO PRESERVE FURS AND WOOLLENS FROM MOTHS.
Let the former be occasionally combed, while in use, and the latter
brushed and shaken. When put away, dry them very well, then mix among
them bitter apples from the apothecary’s, sewed up in small muslin
bags, or pieces of Russia leather.
No. 52.
TO VARNISH OLD STRAW OR CHIP HATS.
Take half an ounce of the best black sealing wax, bruise it, and put
to it two ounces of spirits of turpentine, melt the sealing wax very
gently, by placing the bottle that holds it in boiling water, near the
fire, taking care the spirit does not catch fire; when all the wax is
melted, lay it on the hat warm, with a fine hair brush, near the fire,
or in the sun. It will not only give a beautiful gloss and stiffness to
the hat, but will make it resist wet.
No. 53.
TO RAISE THE SURFACE OF VELVET.
Warm a smoothing iron moderately, cover it with a wet cloth, hold it
under the velvet, and the vapour arising from the heated cloth will
raise the pile of the velvet, especially with the assistance of a rush
wisk. Velvet should be cleaned either with a bit of old velvet or crape.
No. 54.
TO MAKE STARCH.
Peel and grate a quantity of potatoes, put the pulp into a coarse
cloth, between two boards, and press it into a dry cake; the juice thus
pressed out of the potatoe, must be mixed with an equal quantity of
water, and in an hour’s time it will deposit a fine sediment, which may
be used as starch.
No. 55.
TO MAKE COURT PLAISTER.
Lay some thin black silk on the table, and put on it with a brush some
dissolved isinglass, or gum water, and let it dry, then dip it several
times in the white of an egg.
No. 56.
TO MAKE LAVENDER WATER.
To one pint of spirits of wine, add eight pennyworth of essence of
ambergris, and one shilling worth of oil of lavender.
No. 57.
TO MAKE EAU DE COLOGNE.
Spirits of wine (rectified at 36 degrees), one pound and a half,
Essence of bergamot, two drachms,
Essence of rosemary, half a drachm,
Essence of cedras, half a drachm,
Essence of lemon, half a drachm,
Essence of orange flowers, twenty drops,
Essence of mereby, twenty drops,
Spirits of melisse, one ounce and a half,
Of soft water, boiled and dropt slowly through clean blotting paper,
one quart.
No. 58.
POWDER FOR INFANTS’ DUST BAGS.
The skin of infants is so apt to chafe, if not thoroughly dried after
washing, that powder is put upon all the folds of their skin, and
rubbed by the hand upon them.
This is either put on with a powder puff, or dusted out of little
muslin bags.
Lapis calaminaris, a fine yellow powder, is that generally used.
Fuller’s earth is particularly adapted, from its cooling nature, to
check inflammation. It is dusted on when the skin is not sore, but when
the chafing has taken place it is put on mixed with cold water.
Violet powder is often used, but this is frequently mixed with some
hurtful ingredient, which irritates and inflames the skin, and is
therefore objected to by medical men. It can be procured perfectly
harmless, but the druggist of whom it is purchased should be told for
what purpose it is intended.
No. 59.
POT-POURRI, OR SWEET SCENT JAR.
Put the following ingredients into a large china jar, in layers, with
bay salt between each layer; two pecks of damask roses, part in buds,
and part blown; of violets, jessamine, and orange flowers, a handful
each; two ounces of orris root sliced, storax, and gum benjamin; a
quarter of a pound of angelica root sliced; a quart of the red part of
clove gilly flowers, two handsful of lavender flowers, half a handful
of rosemary flowers, bay and laurel leaves; three Seville oranges,
stuck as full of cloves as possible, dried in a cool oven, and pounded;
half a handful of knotted majoram, two handsful of balm of gilead dried.
Cover all quite close for some weeks, and the perfume is very fine.
No. 60.
A QUICKER SORT OF POT-POURRI.
Take three handsful of orange flowers, three of clove gilly flowers,
three of damask roses, one of knotted marjoram, one of lemon thyme,
six bay leaves, two handsful of rosemary, a handful of myrtle, half a
one of mint, one of lavender, the rind of a lemon, and a quarter of an
ounce of cloves.
Chop them all, and put them in layers with pounded bay salt between
them, up to the top of the jar.
If all the ingredients cannot be procured at once, put them in as you
obtain them, always throwing in bay salt, after each fresh layer.
No. 61.
SCENT BAGS TO LAY IN DRAWERS.
Half a pound of coriander seeds, half a pound of damask rose leaves,
half a pound of sweet orris root, half a pound of calamus aromaticus,
one ounce of mace, one ounce of cinnamon, half an ounce of cloves,
three ounces of verbena powder, four drachms of musk powder, two
drachms of loaf sugar, three ounces of lavender flowers, and some
rhodium wood; beat them well together, and sew them up in muslin or
silk bags.
No. 62.
TO MAKE SHOES WATERPROOF.
One pound of mutton suet, four ounces of bees-wax, two ounces of Venice
turpentine, mixed altogether; the bees-wax being melted and strained.
Put on the composition with a hare’s foot or brush, drying it before
the fire, and repeating it at intervals of time, till all the seams and
little cracks are filled up.
No. 63.
REMEDY AGAINST FLEAS.
Sew the leaves of fresh penny-royal, in little muslin bags, and put
them between the blankets, or mattresses. Wormwood, or dried moss, will
have the same effect.
No. 64.
TO PREVENT BEING BITTEN BY BUGS.
Put a sprig or two of tansy at the head of the bed, or as near the
pillow as is not disagreeable. Pieces of camphor sewed to the bed, or
mattress, will also drive them away.
No. 65.
TO DESTROY BUGS.
Mix some quicksilver in a mortar with the white of an egg, till the
quicksilver is all mixed, and there are no bubbles; then beat up the
white of another egg, and put it to the mixture in the mortar, till it
becomes a fine ointment.
Anoint the bedstead all over in every crack, with a brush, and put it
also about the cord lacing, head board, &c. When repeated for the two
or three following days, the cure will be effectual, and the bedstead
uninjured.
No. 66.
TO DESTROY FLIES.
Ground black pepper and moist sugar mixed in equal quantities, and
diluted with milk, put into saucers, adding fresh milk, and stirring
the mixture when required.
No. 67.
TO DESTROY BUGS FROM FURNITURE.
Wash the bedstead or floor with water thoroughly saturated with glauber
salts, once or twice a year, and the bugs will shortly be effectually
destroyed.
The following receipts have been taken from that useful
and interesting work, called the Magazine of Domestic
Economy, which is strongly recommended to the notice
of all those who are engaged in the management of a
household, as containing a great variety of directions
and useful knowledge in every branch of domestic economy.
No. 68.
TO PREPARE RABBIT SKINS.
To be good, the skin should be in season.
Take the skin as fresh as possible, and having mixed a quantity of salt
and water, till it will bear an egg, saturate it with alum; put your
skin into this mixture, blood warm, and let it lie and soak twenty-four
hours; then take it out, and having tacked it upon a board, the fur
inwards, scrape the skin, and a thin membrane will come off; then
having warmed up the liquor again, put your skin again into it, and let
it remain five hours more, after which, take it out and nail it upon a
board to dry, the fur inwards as before; and rub it well with pumice
stone and whiting.
No. 69.
FRENCH POLISH FOR BOOTS, SHOES, AND HARNESS.
A quarter of a pound of glue, half a pound of logwood chips, a quarter
of an ounce of indigo, powdered very fine, a quarter of an ounce of
soft soap, a quarter of an ounce of isinglass.
Boil these ingredients in two pints of vinegar and one pint of water,
during ten minutes after the ebullition begins.
Then strain the liquid; when cold it is fit for use, and may be put
into either pint or half pint bottles.
The dirt must be sponged off the boots and shoes, and the polish
afterwards put on with a clean sponge; should the polish ever become
too thick, it must be held near to the fire to warm a little, when the
heat will give it the proper liquescence.
No. 70.
TO PRESERVE GILT FRAMES AND LAMPS.
It is usual to clothe all frames and lamps with gauze, Holland, muslin
or chintz bags, to protect them from damp, but this practice has been
stated to be very injurious to them, as these bags are known to retain
any moisture for so long a time as to be of great injury to the gilt;
whereas, when left uncovered, though more exposed to the air, it
becomes sooner dry.
The following is a good method of
REVIVING GILT FRAMES.
Beat up three ounces of eggs, with one ounce of chloride of potash, or
soda, lay it over the frame with a soft brush dipped in the mixture.
No. 71.
TO MAKE CLOTH WATERPROOF.
Take half an ounce of isinglass (Russian is best), put it into one
pound of rain water, and boil until dissolved; take one ounce of alum,
put it into two pounds of water, and boil till it is dissolved; take a
quarter of an ounce of white soap, with one pound of rain water, and
boil till it is dissolved. After each of these ingredients has been
separately dissolved, strain them separately through a piece of linen;
afterwards mix them well together in a pot, put it on the fire again
till it simmers, then take it off, and while thus near boiling, dip a
brush into it, and apply it to the wrong side of the cloth intended to
be waterproof.
The cloth must be spread out on a table during the operation, and
remain there until it is dry; after it is dry it must be brushed on
the wrong side against the grain; and then dipping the brush in clear
water, pass it lightly over, and leave it again to dry.
After that, the gloss caused by the application of the ingredients can
be taken off.
Three days after the operation has been done, the cloth will be
impervious to water but not to air.
No. 72.
TO EXTRACT GREASE SPOTS FROM LINEN.
The following method is not generally known, and is the best we ever
met with.
Take magnesia in the lump, wet it, and rub the grease spots well with
it. In a little time brush it off, and no appearance of grease will be
left.
No. 73.
TO CLEAN MERINO CURTAINS.
Remove the dust as much as possible with a brush, and lay the curtain
over a large table, and having procured three or four pieces of
flannel, and a quantity of bran, sprinkle a handful of the latter on a
portion of the furniture, and proceed to rub it round and round with a
bit of the flannel. When the bran becomes soiled, take more bran and
a fresh piece of flannel, and thus continue till the merino becomes
bright and clean.
No. 74.
METHOD OF CLEANSING SILK, WOOLLEN, AND COTTON.
Take raw potatoes in their natural state, and when well washed, let
them be rubbed on a grater over a vessel of clean water, to a fine
pulp; pass the liquid matter through a coarse sieve into another tub of
clean water; let this mixture stand till the fine white particles of
potatoe are precipitated, then pour off the liquor, which preserve for
use.
The article to be cleaned should be laid on a table, and well rubbed
with a sponge dipped in the liquor until clean, when it is washed
several times in clean water, and then dried and ironed.
Two middle sized potatoes will suffice for a pint of water. The coarse
pulp of the potatoe, which will not pass the sieve, is of use in
cleaning worsted curtains, tapestry, carpets, and other coarse goods,
while the liquor prepared as above, will clean silk, cotton, and
woollen goods.
No. 75.
TO BLEACH WOOL.
To one pound of wool yarn, take two pounds of powdered white chalk,
mixed with river water, to the consistency of paste; knead the yarn
thoroughly in it, that it may be completely saturated, and let it dry
for twenty-four hours, then rub it well, and wash it in cold water, to
remove all the chalk, and the yarn will be quite clean, and very white.
Warm water spoils the colour of the wool.
No. 76.
BALLS FOR REMOVING SPOTS FROM CLOTH.
Mix well four ounces of fuller’s earth, dried so as to crumble into
powder, with a piece of lemon; when well incorporated, add two drachms
of common pearl ash powdered. Work up the whole into a stiff paste, and
form it into balls.
Set them to dry on a gently heated stove, and when dry, they are fit
for use.
When using this preparation, first moisten with cold water, the spots
you wish to remove, and rub a ball all over them. Let the place dry in
the sun, or near the fire, and when quite dry, wash the spots with a
sponge and water, and they will disappear.
No. 77.
MODE OF WASHING A SILK DRESS.
If the dress is made up, the seams need not be separated, but the body
should be removed from the skirt, and the lining taken away from the
bottom. Trimming and ornaments should be taken off.
If dirty, let the dress be simply washed first in soft, cold clear
water, and if black, a pint of gin should be added to every gallon of
water, then proceed as follows:—
Lay the dress on a clean smooth table, a flannel should be
well soaped, being made just wet enough with lukewarm water,
and the silk rubbed one way, being careful that this rubbing
is quite even. When the dirt has disappeared, the soap must
be washed off with a sponge, and plenty of cold water. As
soon as one side is finished, the other must be washed
precisely in the same manner.
Observe that not more of either side must be done at a time,
than can be spread perfectly flat upon the table, and the
hand conveniently reach; likewise, the soap must be sponged
off one portion of the dress, before the soaped flannel is
applied to another.
The dresses should be hung up on a linen horse, in the
shade, and when dry, if of a black, or dark blue colour,
another sponging of gin, or whiskey, is highly advantageous.
Washed silks are spoiled if ironed with a hot iron, therefore
use one of moderate heat, with a sheet of paper between.
No. 78.
INDIAN RUBBER VARNISH.
Put in a bottle two ounces of Indian rubber, cut very small; add one
pound of spirits of turpentine, and stop the bottle close, that the
spirit may not evaporate; leave it two days without moving, then stir
the liquor with a wooden spatula, and if the India rubber is swollen,
and has absorbed the spirit, add a sufficient quantity for it just to
swim in the liquid. Stir it every forty-eight hours, till the India
rubber is quite dissolved, which is ascertained by squeezing a little
of it between the fingers; when in this state put it into a glass
bottle and keep it well corked till wanted for use; the longer it is
kept the better it becomes.
No. 79.
TO CLEAN PAINT THAT IS NOT VARNISHED.
Put upon a plate some of the best whiting, have ready some clean warm
water, and a piece of flannel, which dip into the water and squeeze
nearly dry; then take as much whiting as will adhere to it, apply it
to the paint, when a little rubbing will instantly remove any dirt or
grease; wash it well off with water, and rub it dry with a soft cloth.
Paint thus cleaned looks equal to new; and without doing the least
injury to the most delicate colour, it will preserve the paint much
longer than if cleaned with soap; and it does not require more than
half the time usually occupied in cleaning.
No. 80.
HINTS ON PURCHASING FURNITURE.
A misfortune of not very rare occurrence, is the splitting of valuable
tables that are veneered. We have known the infliction, and we guard
others from a similar annoyance.
One of the causes may be traced to the cabinet makers; it is not
unusual for them to make use of wood for the foundation, that has not
been sufficiently seasoned, and is besides of an open porous texture,
so different from the close hard grained wood, which is to form the
veneer, that a very long time is requisite before they can manufacture
their goods without risk of shrinking.
In order to ensure this certainty of seasoning, a larger stock of wood
is required than is always convenient to be on hand by a cabinet maker,
either from want of capital or accommodation; hence, the purchase of
new furniture requires circumspection.
In this, as well as every other requisite, we would enforce the oft
repeated advice, that a preference is always given to the trader of
known probity.
Chance bargains, cheap to the eye, almost always become dear and
unsatisfactory in the end.
Veneered furniture which is purchased from a damp warehouse, and
brought suddenly into a well aired warm room will almost infallibly fly.
Chests of drawers, particularly if they be made of coarse Honduras
mahogany, scarcely fail to crack, and throw up from their edges slips
of veneer, which snap off, and are swept away, leaving unsightly white
gaps; these have to be replaced, and look shabby and patched.
Spanish mahogany, though much more expensive in the first purchase, is
far more certain, hard, rich-coloured, and durable.
It is essential that new furniture should be inured by degrees to a
change of temperature, in order to prevent this hazardous warping, and
unequal contracting of the wood. Tables in particular, if intended to
occupy a station opposite a fire, should be kept with the grain of the
wood lying longways; not the ends of the grain and the joint pointing
to the fire; for want of this simple precaution, we have known a
beautiful rosewood table entirely spoiled.
Spanish mahogany was the beautiful wood which was first known in
England, and which was said to be of so hard and close a grain as to
turn the edges of our workmen’s tools; but since our possessions and
commerce have been extended to the North of America, we have been
stocked with vast quantities of that open grained inferior kind, that
is made into almost all our household goods, and which, from its
facility of working, is so cheap, that purchasers are continually
deceived by unprincipled tradesmen, by the substitution of one for the
other.
No person can well be deceived, however, to whom the two sorts of wood
have been explained; the one (Spanish) being rich-coloured, of an even
texture, like satin, when polished, with no grain visible; the other
pale, rough, and uneven when highly polished, shewing the coarse grain
like threads; the latter too is so soft, that it is dented with the
slightest touch, a pencil-case falling upon it, six inches from its
surface, will leave a dent that never can be removed, unless the whole
is plained over.
No. 81.
TO CLEAN SPONGE.
Wash them in very dilute tartaric acid, rinsing them afterwards in
water; it will make them very soft and white. Be careful to dilute the
acid well, as it is very corrosive.
No. 82.
A USEFUL GLUE.
This is excellent for joining wood, in furniture, &c., as it forms so
tenacious a union of the parts, that the point of junction is stronger,
and is more difficult to break, than any other part of the wood. Also
if sawdust is mixed up into a ball with the glue, it becomes solid and
elastic, so as to be fit for turning.
Beat an ounce of isinglass to shreds, and put it into a small skillet,
and pour over it a pint of brandy. Set the skillet over a very slow
fire, so that a very gentle heat may be applied to the mixture. When
all the isinglass is dissolved, strain the solution, and put it in a
wide mouthed bottle with a glass stopper, which must remain constantly
closed.
At the time it is required for use, it must be liquified by a moderate
heat, which renders it thin and transparent.
This solution in brandy never corrupts, and is therefore the best form
of dissolved isinglass for fining wines, and other liquids.
This solution likewise serves admirably for taking impressions of coins
and models, over the surface of which, a very thin coating must be
poured of the melted glue.
This coating being left on the coin, medal, or seal, during several
days, until it is hard, is then a tough, horny, transparent substance,
bearing the impression in relief on one side, and in intaglio on the
other.
Nothing can injure this glue excepting water, which dissolves it,
therefore it will not serve as a cement for china, or any thing holding
or coming in contact with water.
No. 83.
TO PRESERVE BRASS ORNAMENTS.
Brass ornaments, when not gilt or lackered, may be cleaned, and a fine
colour may be given to them by either of the two following simple
processes.
The first is, to beat sal-ammoniac into a fine powder, then to moisten
it with soft water, rubbing it on the ornaments, which must be heated
over charcoal, and rubbed dry with bran and whiting.
The second is, to wash the brass work with roche alum boiled in strong
lye, in the proportion of an ounce to a pint; when dry, it must be
rubbed with fine tripoli.
No. 84.
CHEAP SCOURING DROPS.
Take a wine-glassful of the rectified oil of turpentine, half a
tea-spoonful or more of essential oil of lemons, mix them well, and
preserve in a well stopped phial. If you have not oil of lemons, oil of
cloves, or of cinnamon, or of peppermint, will do.
The scorning drops thus prepared, are of a pleasant odour, and will
take out of silk, woollen, linen, or cotton stuffs, all sorts of grease
spots, oil, paint, pitch, tar, fruit stains, &c. by rubbing a little on
the satin, with a piece of flannel or woollen cloth.
A bit of silk velvet is the best rubber for silks; the drops do not
affect the colour of stuffs.
No. 85.
IMITATION OF MAPLE WOOD.
For frames or furniture. The stain is merely aquafortis, washed on with
a brush; as soon as it has been hastily brushed over, hold the article
to the fire, it will become yellow in a few minutes. It is then to be
brushed over with copal varnish, and left to dry in the sun or open
air; two or three coats completely fill the pores of the wood; then rub
it gently with a bit of flat pumice-stone, and give it another coat,
perhaps two, letting it be completely dry between each; then polish
again very gently, and finish off with flour and a soft rag. It is as
good as French polish, and may be washed at any time.
No. 86.
RECEIPT FOR FRENCH POLISH.
One quart of rectified spirits of wine,
Two ounces of seed lac,
One ounce of shell lac,
One ounce of gum sandrach,
One ounce of gum copal,
One ounce of camphor,
Pound the gums together and put them with the whole of the other
articles into a stone bottle; cork it securely, and place the bottle in
hot water, shaking it often, till all be dissolved.
A very small quantity is said to be used at a time, and only a small
surface of the piece of furniture is covered with the liquid, and that
is rubbed off immediately; a little more is then applied, which is also
rubbed off, and this is repeated till the desired polish is attained.
Another part of the table &c. is then treated in the same manner, till
the whole surface is polished.
No. 87.
TO CLEAN HAIR BRUSHES.
The best mode is to use soda, dissolved in cold water, instead of soap
and hot water; the latter very soon softens the hairs of the brush,
and the rubbing completes their destruction. Soda having an affinity
for grease, cleans the brush with very little friction. Hair brushes
are generally chosen by the whiteness and delicacy of the hair, it is
therefore prepared (which is injurious to them) to suit the taste of
purchasers. Dark white, coarse thick Foreign bristles make the most
durable brushes.
No. 88.
TO CLEAN KID GLOVES, WHITE OR COLOURED.
Have ready a little new milk in one saucer and a piece of brown soap in
another, and a clean cloth or towel folded three or four times. On the
cloth spread out the glove smooth and neat; take a piece of flannel,
dip it in the milk, then rub off a good quantity of soap on to the
wetted flannel, and commence to rub the glove downwards, towards the
fingers, holding it firmly with the left hand. Continue this process
till the glove, if white, looks of a dingy yellow, though clean; if
coloured, till it looks dark and spoiled; lay it to dry, and the old
gloves shall look nearly new. They will become soft, elastic, smooth
and glossy.
WASHING AND IRONING.
As the appearance of many articles of dress depends greatly upon the
skill of the washerwoman, it is thought that a few hints on the subject
may not be misapplied; these have been collected from experienced
laundresses, and from that excellent little work “Cottage Comforts.”
The first things to be attended to are, the articles required for both
wash-house and laundry, which are as follows:—
1ST. LARGE AND SMALL WASHING TUBS.—These should be of smooth wood,
with no nails, or iron hoops outside, lest the linen should be torn or
rusted.
2ND. A COPPER FURNACE in which to boil the Linen.—If required for large
washings, it should be capable of holding eighteen or twenty gallons of
water.
3RD. A MAID OR DOLLEY.—These are sometimes circular like a barrel
churn, and sometimes upright, they are used for shaking and rinsing
dirty and coarse linen.
4TH. LINES.—These should be of worsted, if not too expensive, otherwise
soft flaxen lines answer well. When they are done with, and dry, they
should be taken down, wound on a skein, and put carefully aside until
wanted.
5TH. LINE PEGS.—These should be of white soft wood; they must be kept
very clean for use, and counted before being put away.
6TH. AS RAIN WATER is essential for many articles, if none is at hand,
a cask should be kept, to catch what falls from the house.
FOR THE LAUNDRY.
The following articles are in use.
1st. Ironing cloths or blankets; these are generally made of
proper kind of flannel called fearnought; they should be
carefully dried when put away, lest moths should destroy
them.
2nd. A mangle for heavy linen.
3rd. The common irons for lighter articles.
4th. The Italian iron for frills, &c.
5th. The sleeve iron.
6th. The box iron.
7th. The gaufiering iron.
ON WASHING LINEN, &c.
A good washerwoman will examine carefully the linen she has to wash,
and rub soap on to such parts as require it the most, as the collars
and wristbands of shirts, taking care that the water is not too hot,
otherwise it will set in the dirt.
She afterwards twice thoroughly washes out all her white things in
plenty of white warm lather, shaking each article out, and examining if
every spot or stain is removed. She then boils them, taking care not to
put too many into the copper at once.
A small quantity of soft soap thrown in to the boil, helps to give a
good colour to the linen, and if well washed out of the boil, as all
linen ought to be, and afterwards well rinsed in plenty of spring
water, no unpleasant smell will be retained.
The rinsing water should be made moderately blue, by means of stone
blue tied up in a flannel bag, and squeezed in.
Such things as are to be starched, will be much clearer if they are
first dried; then dipped in the starch before it is quite cold; then
dipped in cold water and dried again; then once more dipped in cold
water, spread upon a coarse dry cloth, and rolled up; by this mode
also, their sticking to the ironing cloth, will be prevented.
The best way to make starch, is, very gradually to moisten with cold
water, a table spoonful of starch; when quite smooth, stir it into a
pint of boiling water, with a morsel of white wax, and let it boil
gently for several minutes, stirring it all the time; when poured out,
cover it over with a plate, to prevent a skin forming at top, which is
both troublesome and wasteful.
To prevent flannels or woollen stockings from shrinking, pour over
them, when new, boiling water; suffer it to remain till cold, then hang
them up without wringing; and when dry, shake them well.
Greasy spots may be taken out of all kinds of woollen cloths, blankets,
scarlet cloaks, or table baizes, without injury to the colour, by
washing them with gall, instead of soap; the gall may be had at the
butcher’s, at 3_d._ a pint.
A pint mixed up in a good sized tub of soft water, will be sufficient
for several articles; it will lather exactly like soap.
This is the process used by the scourer. The articles so washed, will
require to be several times rinsed in water, to remove the smell of the
gall; when dry, they should be removed, and suffered to remain in the
mangle all night, after which, they will appear as good as new.
In washing prints the colours should be rubbed as little as possible,
for which reason it is a good thing to boil a lather of soap till it
is like a jelly, mix this jelly with cold water, and wash them in it.
It is a good plan also to wash coloured things the first time, in
the suds in which flannels have been washed, if it is not too dirty.
They should be taken immediately from one water into another, and not
suffered to lie together damp, or they will dry streaky.
When washed, rinse them twice in spring water, and hang them out
immediately, without wringing.
Blankets are washed with soft soap.
Gall is used for bombazines and stuffs.
Any thing that has been singed in the ironing should be wetted with
cold water, and laid in the air.
Soda may be put in the water in which very greasy cloths are washed,
but it is liable to spoil other things.
Grease may be taken out with cold water and suds.
Men and boy’s stockings should be steeped, and stewed in cold water and
soap, in a slow oven, or boiled.
HANGING TO DRY.
Stockings should be hung by the toe, to prevent the feet becoming thick.
Gowns should be pinned up by the shoulders, rather than by the bottom
of the skirt, or the body lining becomes discoloured.
MANGLING AND IRONING.
Damp over the things, and iron or mangle them; the latter is used for
heavy linen, such as sheets, towels, table cloths, &c.
Those articles which have buttons or thick plaits should not be
mangled; the mangle is injured by them; besides the buttons are broken
to pieces, and the plaited articles cannot be made smooth.
In ironing, be careful first to rub over something of little value,
lest fine things be either scorched or smeared.
The Italian iron is used entirely for puffs, frills, &c.
The sleeve iron, which resembles a mushroom, having a half circle at
the top, to which is attached a handle or stalk, is put up through the
opening of the sleeve towards the wrist, and the sleeve is drawn or
passed over the iron backwards and forwards until it is all properly
ironed. This only suits some kinds of sleeves, but is remarkably good
for them.
Let every thing be thoroughly dried, and aired by the fire, otherwise
they will have a tumbled, half finished appearance, besides exposing
the wearer to the risk of taking cold.
CLEAR STARCHING.
Wash out the articles to be clear starched, and then in a very clean
vessel, put about two table spoonsful of water to two ounces of starch,
wet it and mix it well up into a paste, pour about half a pint of
boiling water upon it, keep stirring it all the while, till of the
proper consistency, then boil it up well for a quarter of an hour, and
by adding a little white wax, it prevents the starch sticking to the
iron.
Dip the articles in, and wring the starch out again very dry, spread
the things on a clean cloth, and then roll the cloth and articles
together very tightly. It should remain thus about two hours, and then
be ironed nicely.
The iron should be very clean; to effect this, rub it each time on
taking it from the fire, upon a little sand paper and a cloth.
GAUFIERING.
This may be done either with gaufiering irons, or by means of straws,
which are brought in bundles prepared for the purpose.
The following is the manner in which the straws are used:—
Procure a board about a yard long, and six nails broad, cover it with
flannel, and fasten two tapes length-wise, leaving about a quarter of
a yard between them; then pin the net to the flannel at one end, and
place a straw over the tapes (between which the net is lying) and under
the net, the next straw is laid under the tapes and over the net, and
so on alternately, taking care that the upper straws are put close to
each other, upon the under ones, forming two layers of straws. When all
the net is folded, dip a coarse cloth in water, and wring it as dry as
you can, lay this upon the net, and iron it dry, pressing on the board
as much as you can without splitting the straws; remove the cloth, and
place the board before the fire for half an hour, when you may draw out
the upper straws, and run in some cotton to secure it, after which, the
remaining straws may be taken away, and the work is complete.
Some persons hold the board in the steam of a kettle for some time and
then dry it before the fire, in preference to ironing it.
Some others sprinkle it with very weak starch water, gum water, or rice
water, before ironing.
CHAPTER XI.
KNITTING.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
Knitting is the art of uniting worsted, or any other material together,
without the aid of a loom. This work is applied to stockings, socks,
boots, coverlids, and various other articles of wear or ornament, and
is generally done with worsted, cotton or silk, but as the latter
material properly belongs to fancy work, it will not be often mentioned.
KNITTING PINS OR NEEDLES,
As they are variously called, are made of iron or brass, for common
use, and steel for best. They can be procured of every size and
thickness, and are sold in sets, each set containing four pins. These
sets cost from ⅛_d._ to 2_d._ each, according to the metal and size.
Ivory, bone, whalebone, steel, rosewood, ebony, and cane pins, of a
larger size and thickness, are employed for knitting coverlids, boots,
carpets, and other thickly knit articles. These are sometimes twenty
inches, or two feet long, and have a knob at one end to prevent the
stitches from slipping off. Of these pins two or three form the set.
For schools, common pins may be procured from a carpenter or turner,
for 2_d._ a set, whereas the former are charged at from 1_s._ 6_d._ to
8_s._ or 9_s._ the set.
MATERIALS FOR KNITTING.
Worsted, lambs’ wool, or fleecy wool, is used for stockings, and other
wearing articles.
Cotton is employed for curtains, window blinds, bags, fringe, &c.
These materials are always sold by the weight; one pound contains
sixteen ounces.
The expense of wools and worsteds varies so materially, that an average
price can hardly be stated. It has been sold as low as at 2_s._ per
pound, and as high as 6_s._ 6_d._ Crimsons are the most expensive
colours, greens and oranges the next, blue is more moderate, and black,
grey, purple, and pepper and salt are the least expensive, always
excepting white, which is the lowest of any.
Grey and white common worsted contain a good deal of turpentine, and
are often preferred by the poor on that account.
Black should be well soaked in strong vinegar, to set the colour, and
prevent its coming off on the hands while being knitted.
Worsteds are more suitable for men’s and women’s stockings.
Wools for children’s stockings, or for muffatees, ruffs, and other
lighter articles of wear, which should be soft and warm.
All worsteds and wools should be carefully wrapped up in the coarsest
brown paper, which also contains turpentine, and keeps out the air.
They should be often looked to, as the moths are apt to get at them and
spoil them.
Worsteds in use should be neatly wound in small balls, about the size
of an orange.
ON KNITTING STITCHES.
In knitting, keep the ball in the pocket, or in a bag hung to the arm,
or a basket, and do not allow it to roll on the table or floor, to get
dusted.
There are a great variety of knit stitches, all of which, are founded
on the following kinds, beginning with casting or setting on stitches,
all of which will be explained in due order.
CASTING ON STITCHES.
This must be first learned, and signifies putting the stitches on the
pins, in order to begin working.
There are two or three modes of doing this.
Hold the worsted at about a quarter of a yard from the end, together
with one of the pins in the right hand, between the finger and thumb.
Next, hold the worsted at some distance from the end, and lay it across
the palm of the left hand, holding it down with the fingers while you
make a loop, by bringing the worsted before the thumb, and carrying it
outside and back again, between the thumb and first finger into the
palm, taking care to cross it over the other worsted; with the right
hand put the pin under the loop, and take it off from the thumb upon
it, drawing the end of the worsted tight at the same time. Continue
making loops with the left thumb, and taking them off on the right hand
pin, until the proper number of stitches be set on.
Another and a better mode, is that of knitting on the stitches. For
this purpose, after making the first loop with the left hand thumb, as
above, and slipping it off the thumb upon the right hand pin, continue
as follows:—
Take another pin in the right hand, and put it under the loop on the
pin, making this right hand pin lie across under the left. Next, put
the worsted between the two pins, and press the end of the right hand
pin upon the worsted, till it is brought through the first stitch,
and forms a loop upon the pin. Take this loop off upon the left hand
pin, by putting the end of it under the loop, which gives it a kind of
twist; continue thus increasing the stitches on the left hand pin until
the proper number is formed.
THE COMMON KNITTING STITCH.
After setting on the number of stitches in the manner before mentioned,
begin to knit them off from one pin to the other, as follows:—
Hold the pin with the stitches on, in the left hand; with the right
hand, put the other pin under the first loop, making the pin lie across
behind the left hand pin, while with the first finger, the worsted is
drawn in front between the pins. Then with the end of the right pin,
press this worsted till it is brought through the stitch in the form
of a loop upon the right hand pin. Keep it on the right pin, taking
the loop quite off from the left pin. Continue knitting the stitches
off the left upon the right hand pin, till the row is completed, when
change pins, putting the one with stitches in the left hand, and the
disengaged pin in the other.
DUTCH COMMON KNITTING.
This is another mode of knitting the common stitch, and is more simple,
and more quickly done than the usual way.
Hold the pin-ful of stitches in the left hand, as also the worsted,
which should be wound once or twice round the little finger, to keep it
firm, and allowed to pass over the first finger to the pins. The right
hand pin is then simply passed through the stitch, and catching the
worsted outside, draws it through, and forms the loop on the right pin,
and so on.
THE TURN OR SEAM STITCH.
This is also called back-stitching, or pearling, but when alluded to
hereafter, it will invariably be called turn-stitch. It is simply
bringing the worsted between the needles, and taking up the loop, by
putting the needle into the stitch from behind, and knitting it off by
putting the worsted round the pin, and pressing the loop through the
stitch.
WIDENING.
This is increasing the number of loops, and is generally done in the
middle of a pin-ful of stitches.
There are various modes of widening. One is, that of simply passing
the worsted in front, before knitting the loop, and is termed making
a stitch. Another, is effected by taking up the cross loop, below the
next stitch belonging to the row before, and afterwards continuing the
plain knitting.
In some cases where the widening occurs at the end, in order to form
a gradual slope, knit the last stitch without taking the loop off the
pin. Again put the right hand pin into the loop, but in order to give a
twist to the worsted, put it in under the side furthest from you, and
knit it off.
NARROWING.
This is decreasing the number of stitches, by simply knitting two
together.
SLIPPING A STITCH.
This is merely taking the stitch or loop off one pin upon the other
without knitting it.
FINISHING OFF.
In finishing off a piece of knitting, knit two stitches from off the
left hand pin, upon the right, and then with the left pin, take up the
first stitch and put it over the second, slipping it off the pin at the
same time, so as only to leave the second stitch upon it. Knit a third
stitch, and slip the second loop over it also off the pin, and so on
till the last stitch or loop remains on the left hand pin, and none on
the right; when, after breaking off the worsted, pass the end through
the loop and draw it up, and the whole is completed.
Observe, in finishing off, not to pull the worsted too tight, as the
end will curl up, and look puckered.
WELTING.
This is usually knit at the tops of stockings, socks, muffatees, &c.
and tends to confine the article to the leg or arm of the wearer, from
its tendency to contract.
Knit three or more plain stitches, and the same number of turn stitches
alternately for several rows, observing always to knit one row or bout
exactly to correspond with the other, so that the welts or ribs are
regular.
BINDING.
In binding, or joining two stitches together, as for instance, in the
heel of the stocking, lay the two pins together in one hand, and with a
third pin knit a stitch, first off one pin and then off another, after
which, put the first knit stitch over the second, slipping it off the
pin as in fastening off, already described. Continue knitting a fresh
stitch to it, first from one pin and slipping the loop over it, and
then from the other. Pass the worsted through the last loop and the
whole is completed.
There are many terms used in knitting which ought to be familiar to all
knitters, as they are constantly introduced into knitting receipts.
The following will be described, but there are probably many more
peculiar to different counties.
A Row is one line or length of knitting.
A Rib is two rows, or a row forwards and backwards, and is
sometimes called a turn.
A Bout is one round of knitting, as in stockings.
A Welt is that part ribbed at the top of the leg of the stocking.
A Seam is that open line in a stocking, formed by a continuation
of turn stitches.
FANCY STITCHES.
The following are the various fancy stitches commonly employed by
knitters for useful articles:—
No. 1. Double knitting.
2. Another ditto.
3. Another ditto.
4. Open hem.
5. Honey-comb stitch.
6. French stitch.
7. Fantail stitch.
8. Imitation net-work stitch.
9. Open cross-stitch.
10. Insertion-work, or Berlin wire.
11. Plain open stitch.
12. The crow’s-foot stitch.
13. The chain stitch.
14. The embossed hexicon stitch.
15. The common plat.
16. The elastic rib.
17. The rough-cast, or huckaback stitch.
18. The embossed diamond stitch.
19. The ornamental ladder.
20. Imitation double knitting.
21. The knit herring-bone stitch.
22. The purse stitch.
23. The lace wave stitch.
24. The herring-bone bag stitch.
25. An improved open stitch.
26. The shawl stitch.
27. The cross-stitch pattern.
28. The curb stitch.
29. The two coloured rib-stitch.
30. A beautiful diamond stitch.
31. The raised French stitch.
32. The two coloured chain stitch.
33. The rug stitch.
34. The nondescript.
35. A new stitch
36. The new muffatee stitch.
KNIT FRINGES.
No. 1. Fringe.
2. Fringe.
3. Shawl fringe.
4. A beautiful fringe, and border.
5. A very pretty fringe.
6. Fringe for curtains.
No. 1.
DOUBLE KNITTING.
This is very suitable for blankets, coverlets, comforters, socks,
sleeves, ruffs, shawls, &c. There are three kinds of double knitting;
the first is as follows:—
Put on an even number of stitches,
Knit a few plain rows,
Then begin a fresh row as follows:—
Knit a stitch,
Pass the worsted between the needles in front;
Take off a stitch, putting the needle inside the loop;
Pass the worsted back again,
Knit another stitch, as before, and so on.
No. 2.
DOUBLE KNITTING.
Another mode is as follows:—
Put on an even number of stitches,
Knit the first stitch plain, putting the worsted twice over the pin,
Pass the worsted between the needles before,
Slip a stitch,
Pass the worsted behind again.
Again knit a stitch, putting the wool twice over the pin, and so on.
In the next row, knit those stitches that were slipped, and slip those
which were before knit.
It is advisable to knit the first three or four stitches plain in every
row, as it confines it down neatly at the sides.
No. 3.
DOUBLE KNITTING.
This is worked on the wrong side, and is particularly simple, and
far quicker work than the former method, but, as when completed, it
requires turning inside out, it must be knit with plain knitting at the
ends or sides, which to some, is an objection.
Set on an even number of stitches,
Proceed at once, without knitting a plain row,
Put the worsted in front of the pins before beginning to knit,
observing always to keep it so.
Turn the first stitch,
Take off the second stitch, and so on throughout.
No. 4.
OPEN HEM.
Use very fine pins and sewing cotton,
Set on any number of stitches, divisable by four,
Slip the first stitch at the beginning of each row,
Knit the second stitch,
Put the cotton over the pin, to make a stitch;
Knit two loops together,
Continue by knitting the next stitch,
Making a stitch, &c. &c., as before.
No. 5.
HONEY-COMB STITCH.
This is very applicable for shawls, purses, muffatees, and other fancy
articles.
Knit the first stitch,
Put the cotton over the pin, to make a loop,
Knit two stitches together,
Continue making a loop, and knitting two stitches together,
till the row is completed.
Knit the second row plain, and so on, every other row
honeycomb-stitch.
No. 6.
FRENCH STITCH.
Set on the stitches in fours, leaving two over.
Turn the first stitch,
Turn the thread back,
Knit two stitches together,
Bring the thread in front,
Knit a stitch, thus forming a new loop,
Bring the thread again in front,
Turn a stitch, one rib or pattern is then complete.
Begin the next in a similar manner, by turning the thread back, and
knitting two together at the end of the row, turn the thread, and knit
the last stitch.
No. 7.
FAN-TAIL STITCH.
This is very suitable for gloves, mits, purses, &c.
Set on fourteen loops,
Make a loop, by putting the cotton over the pin,
Knit a loop,
Make a loop, and so on,
Knit each of the two last plain,
Then narrow at the second and third stitches, both at the beginning
and ending of each row, until it is reduced to the original number of
fourteen stitches.
No. 8.
IMITATION NET-WORK STITCH.
Set on any even number of stitches you please.
Knit a row plain,
Commence the next row by putting the free pin on the wool, and twisting
the wool round it, by bringing it from behind over the pin, and putting
it behind again, then knit two loops together, putting the pin into
the one nearest to you first, then twist the wool round the pin in the
manner described above; knit two together, and so on to the end. Every
succeeding row is knit in the same manner.
No. 9.
OPEN CROSS-STITCH.
This is generally knit with two colours (suppose blue and brown); each
colour is worked along two rows alternately. In changing colours,
observe that the fresh colour crosses from under the last one, which
prevents its leaving a hole.
The first row of each colour is turn-stitched the whole way, and the
second row of each colour is worked as follows:—
Knit a stitch,
Make a stitch,
Slip a stitch,
Knit two stitches together,
Draw the slipped loop over the two knit loops. Continue to the end of
the row, and then commence two rows with the fresh colour.
This is a very suitable stitch for a shawl-handkerchief, round which,
another pattern of knitting should be made.
No. 10.
INSERTION-WORK, OR BERLIN WIRE STITCH.
If knit with fine thread, and finest needles, it forms beautiful
insertion-work for collars, capes, frocks, &c.
If knit with large pins, and lamb’s wool, it is useful for comforters
and shawls, and looks very pretty.
Set on an even number of stitches,
(If for insertion-work, eight, every four stitches forms one pattern.)
Knit three plain rows or more,
Take off the first stitch,
Knit a stitch,
Knit off two together,
Make a stitch,
Again knit a stitch,
Knit off two together,
Make a stitch, and knit the last stitch,
and so on to the end of the row,
Every alternate row should be knit plain.
No. 11.
PLAIN OPEN STITCH.
Set on an even number of stitches.
Knit two plain rows; then,
Knit the first stitch,
Pass the worsted in front,
Knit two together, thus forming a new stitch,
Again bring the worsted in front,
Knit two together, thus forming a new one,
And so on, till the last stitch, which is knit;
Knit two more rows, and so on.
This is very suitable for shawls and caps.
No. 12.
THE CROW’S-FOOT STITCH.
This is very suitable for shawls, in which case, it should be begun at
one of the corners, and added to at every row.
Otherwise set on any number of stitches divisible by three, allowing
one over, to begin with.
After knitting one plain row, begin the pattern as follows:—
Knit the first stitch,
Make a stitch,
Slip a stitch,
Knit two plain stitches,
Put the slipped stitch over the two plain ones,
Again make a stitch,
Slip a stitch, and so continue to the end.
For the next row, turn every stitch.
No. 13.
CHAIN-STITCH.
Set on thirteen loops,
Knit two plain rows,
Knit three stitches plain,
Bring the worsted in front,
Turn seven stitches,
Turn the worsted back, and knit the remaining three stitches,
Knit the next row plain,
Continue as above, till you have knit in all sixteen rows;
Next knit three stitches plain,
Take off the four next stitches upon a third pin,
Knit the next three stitches from behind the third pin, so as
entirely to miss it, drawing the worsted very tight, so
as to connect the pins close together;
Then, knit the four stitches off the third pin, and the twist is
completed. Knit the remaining three and begin to form a fresh
link, by knitting three stitches,
Turning seven,
Knitting three, and so on; making sixteen more rows before you
twist again.
No. 14.
THE EMBOSSED HEXAGON STITCH.
Set on any number of stitches, divisable by six,
Knit a row plain,
Turn a row,
Knit a row plain,
Knit four stitches, and slip two to the end of the row,
Turn a row, slipping the stitches that were slipped in
the preceding row,
Knit a row, still slipping the two stitches,
Turn a row, slipping the same two stitches,
Knit a row, slipping the two stitches,
Turn a row, slipping the same stitches,
Turn a row, taking up every stitch,
Knit a row plain,
Turn a row.
Commence the next pattern by turning a row, slipping the fifth and
sixth stitches, taking care that the slipped loops come in the centre
of the previous pattern, continue alternately knitting and turning a
row, remembering to slip the two stitches, till you have done six rows,
when knit a row, taking up every stitch and so on.
No. 15.
THE COMMON PLAT.
This is very pretty for coverlets, muffatees, &c.
Set on any number of stitches in threes.
After knitting a plain row, begin as follows:—
1st Row. Knit three plain, and turn three all along.
2nd Row. The same as above, observing to continue from where you left
off in the last row, so that if the row ended in turning, you should
begin with plain stitches and so on.
3rd Row. Observe as above.
These three rows form a succession of squares, of alternate inside and
outside knitting.
4th Row. As the work of the squares should now cross or sit alternately
with those above, like the squares of a chess-board, the first three
stitches should be the same as those with which the last row is
completed.
Continue turning and knitting plain every alternate three stitches, and
varying the squares every three rows, till the whole is completed.
No. 16.
THE ELASTIC RIB.
This is very suitable for cuffs and garters, as it clings or contracts
to the form.
Set on any number of stitches,
Knit a row,
Turn a row,
Knit two rows,
Turn a row,
Continue knitting two, and turning one row to the end of the work.
No. 17.
THE ROUGH-CAST, OR, HUCKABACK STITCH.
Set on any uneven number of stitches.
Knit plain and turn stitch alternately, observing to begin every
row with the plain stitch.
This is very pretty, and firm, and suitable for borders.
No. 18.
THE EMBOSSED DIAMOND.
Set on any number of stitches, divisable by seven,
Knit a row plain.
Turn a stitch, then knit five, and turn two alternately to the end,
Knit two, then turn three, and knit four, alternately to the end,
Turn three, then knit one, and turn six alternately,
Knit a row plain.
Turn two, and then knit two, and turn five alternately,
Knit two, then turn four, and knit three alternately,
Knit six, and turn one alternately,
Knit one, and turn six alternately,
Knit five, then turn three, and knit four alternately,
Knit three, then turn two, and knit five alternately,
Knit a row plain.
No. 19.
THE ORNAMENTAL LADDER STITCH.
Set on your stitches in elevens,
Knit two plain stitches,
Knit two together, again knit two together, draw the first loop
over the second, knit one plain, and then knit two together,
knit two more together, draw the first loop over second,
knit one plain, and so on to the end.
In the second row, turn two, pass the thread twice over the pin, turn
two, and so on.
In the third row, knit two, pass the thread twice round the pin, knit
two, and so on.
Continue alternately knitting one row and turning one, till it is the
length required, observing always to slip the loops, formed by passing
the thread twice round the pin off, without knitting them.
No. 20.
IMITATION DOUBLE KNITTING.
Set on any even number of stitches.
Turn a stitch, and knit a stitch alternately.
As the stitch that was knit before is now to be turned, commence every
row with a turn stitch; this makes both sides alike, and though single,
gives it the appearance of double knitting.
No. 21.
THE KNIT HERRING-BONE STITCH.
Set on any number of stitches, allowing three stitches for each
pattern, and one besides at each end.
Knit a plain row,
Take off the first loop,
Knit two stitches together in turn stitch,
Make a stitch by passing the wool before, and knitting one,
Turn two stitches together,
Again make and knit a stitch, and so on,
Every row is begun and continued the same.
No. 22.
THE PURSE STITCH.
Set on ninety or an hundred stitches,
Knit the first stitch,
Make a stitch by putting the silk over the pin,
Slip a stitch,
Knit a stitch,
Turn the slipped stitch over the knit one,
Repeat this till the row is finished,
Knit the next row in turn stitch,
Repeat as above, alternately knitting a row in turn stitch,
till the whole is completed.
No. 23.
THE LACE WAVE STITCH.
Set on an even number of stitches,
Slip the first stitch,
Knit a stitch,
Make a stitch (by putting the cotton over the pin),
Knit two stitches together to narrow,
Again knit a stitch,
Make a stitch, and narrow till the row is complete,
Knit the next row plain,
Next row, knit two plain stitches, make a stitch,
narrow two stitches in one, knit a stitch, make
a stitch, and narrow to the end of the row,
Next row, knit plain,
Next row, knit three plain stitches, and continue as above,
by making a stitch, narrowing two stitches in one,
and knitting a stitch,
Next row, knit plain,
Next row, knit four stitches, and continue as above,
by making one, narrowing two, and knitting one stitch.
Next row, knit plain,
Next row, knit five stitches plain, and do as above,
Knit two rows plain.
This forms one wave or pattern.
Continue as above to any length required; this, knit with fine thread,
forms beautiful lace for night-cap borders.
No. 24.
THE HERRING-BONE BAG STITCH.
Set on your stitches by fours,
Knit two plain stitches,
Turn the silk twice over the pin to make a long stitch,
Knit two stitches together,
Repeat this till the whole is finished.
No. 25.
AN IMPROVED OPEN STITCH.
Knit the first row plain,
Knit the second row like the usual open stitch,
by knitting the first stitch, putting the worsted
in front, to make a stitch, and knitting two stitches
together, and so on;
Next knit one row plain,
Turn-stitch three rows, and
Knit one row plain,
This is particularly suitable for muffatees, bags, and reticules.
No. 26.
THE SHAWL STITCH.
This is very suitable for shawls, caps, and handkerchiefs, knit with
soft wool, and large pins, and for mittens, with fine black thread or
silk, and is done as follows:—
Set on an even number of stitches,
Knit the second row in the Hole-stitch,
the next row in Turn-stitch, and so on.
No. 27.
THE CROSS-STITCH PATTERN.
This is very suitable for bags, purses, gentlemen’s caps, &c.
Set on an even number of stitches,
Put the wool over the pin, and make a stitch,
Put the needle into two stitches, and knit them backwards,
and so on.
Observe to throw the wool properly over the pin, as, if wrongly
twisted, it is apt to make two stitches.
No. 28.
THE CURB STITCH.
Set on an even number of stitches,
Knit a plain row,
Next row, knit the first stitch, after which continue as follows:—
Bring the wool in front, turn a stitch, put the wool back,
knit a stitch, putting the wool twice over the pin.
Observe, in the next row, the long stitch is the turned stitch.
No. 29.
THE TWO COLOURED RIBBED STITCH.
This is a very pretty stitch for cuffs, mits, or muffatees, and should
be done in two colours, or one colour with white.
Set on an even number of stitches, and continue knitting,
letting every other stitch be of one colour, and the
alternate loops of the other.
Observe, in crossing the worsteds, always to keep the
white wool uppermost.
No. 30.
A BEAUTIFUL DIAMOND STITCH.
Set on the stitches in threes, and one over,
Slip off the first stitch. Then knit all along as follows,
always keeping the wool in front,
Slip one stitch, holding the loop, as if going to turn-stitch,
Put the wool over the pin, to make a loop,
Knit two turn stitches in one.
Next row, it is to be turn-stitched all the way, excepting that
the formed stitch of the last row is always to be slipped,
taking hold of it as in turning.
After the beginning of this alternate row, there will be always two
single turn stitches, and one slipped stitch all along.
No. 31.
THE RAISED FRENCH STITCH.
Set on an even number of stitches,
Turn the wool over the pin to make a stitch,
Knit two together, and so on to the end of the row:
Next row, turn-stitch the whole way,
Next row, knit plain,
Next row, turn-stitch, making in all three plain rows;
Repeat the whole as above.
If this is for a shawl, increase one stitch at two loops from the end
of the needle, always at the same place, once in every rib.
No. 32.
THE TWO COLOURED CHAIN STITCH.
This is a very pretty stitch, and is suitable for muffatees, bags, and
mats. It is knit with two wools, coloured and white, and is done as
follows:—
Set on the required number of stitches, and knit in the coloured wool
alternately with the white. To form the chain-like appearance, observe
to cross the wool, with which the loop is being knit, over the wool of
the last loop. Observe to knit off the white loops with the coloured
wool, and the coloured loops with the white wool.
No. 33.
THE RUG STITCH.
This is knit with fine pins and worsted of a common kind, and the rug
or woolly part is composed of soft thick wool.
Set on any number of stitches, and knit one plain row, after which,
begin with the wool, knitting first one plain stitch, and then pass the
wool between the pins, round the second or third finger, according to
the depth required, and in front between the pins. Knit another plain
stitch, and again carry the wool between the pins, round the fingers in
front, and make another stitch, and so on to the end of the row, when
cut off the wool, and knit the row back with the worsted, which secures
the fringe.
Lay the wool between the pins again, after knitting the first plain
stitch, and continue as before, making a loop of fringe between each
plain stitch, and so on. After knitting the number of rows required,
cut the fringe and open the wool as much as possible, taking care not
to pull it out.
No. 34.
THE NONDESCRIPT.
Set on any number of stitches, knit as follows,
always slipping the first stitch;
Make a stitch, by putting the wool over the pin,
Knit a stitch;
Next row, knit two stitches together all along the pin;
Continue as above.
No. 35.
A NEW STITCH.
Set on any number of stitches,
Put the wool over the pin to make a stitch,
Turn a stitch, and so on:
Next row, turn-stitch, taking two loops at
once the whole way.
No. 36.
THE NEW MUFFATEE STITCH.
Set on any even number of stitches,
Slip the first stitch, then knit as follows:—
Put the wool in front of the pin, then take up a loop
of the former row on the pin, then turn a stitch,
take up a loop as before, turn a stitch as before,
and so on;
Next row, turn-stitch all along, taking two loops at once.
No. 1.
FRINGE.
Set on eight stitches,
Knit a plain round,
Slip the first loop,
Double the wool, and put the knot over the pin; knit two loops, put
the wool behind, knit one, bring it in front, knit two, turn it
behind, and knit one; turn it again in front, and knit the last loop,
then knit a plain row. In the third row, slip the first loop, put the
little finger of the left hand through the fringe, and pass the wool
for the next loop, round the finger also, then turn it over the pin,
and knit the row as before.
No. 2.
ANOTHER FRINGE.
This is very suitable for doyleys and pincushion covers; in which case,
it must be knit with cotton.
Set on twelve stitches,
Knit a stitch,
Make a stitch, by putting the cotton over the pin,
Knit two stitches in one,
Continue this till the row is finished.
Proceed onwards until a strip of sufficient length is made to go round
the doyley or article for which it is intended. Then fasten off six of
the stitches, letting the other six drop off your pins, and unrove it
down the whole length of the strip, to form the fringe. Sew it on with
coarse white cotton.
No. 3.
A SHAWL FRINGE.
Cast on five stitches,
Slip off the first stitch,
Knit the second stitch,
Make a stitch,
Knit two stitches together,
At the last stitch, twist the cotton three times over the pin and the
second finger, or over the pin and a mesh of the proper depth of the
fringe, and knit it firmly on. Let every alternate row be plain.
No. 4.
A BEAUTIFUL FRINGE AND BORDER.
Set on an even number of stitches of any depth sufficient to allow for
the fringe, and for the head of the fringe, and knit thus:—
Make a stitch, by laying the wool over the needle. Put the needle in
two loops, and knit them in one, just contrary to the usual way.
Continue thus, row after row, until a strip of sufficient length is
done. Fasten off, letting four, six, eight, or ten stitches drop off
the pin to unrove for the fringe.
No. 5.
A VERY PRETTY FRINGE,
For mats, handkerchiefs, mits, &c.
Use fine pins and common worsted for knitting the fringe, which should
be of thick handsome wool.
Set on as many stitches as are required for the length of the piece of
fringe.
Knit one plain row,
Next row, knit one stitch,
Lay the wool (either singly, or doubly, or even trebly, if required
very full) between the pins, from the front towards the back, round the
second or third finger, according to the depth required, and back again
through the pins in front. Knit the next stitch, and again carry the
wool behind round the fingers, to make another loop of fringe, and when
brought forward between the pins, make another stitch and so on, to the
end of the row, after which, knit a plain row back, to secure it more
firmly, knitting alternately with the wool and worsted, fastening off
as you go along.
No 6.
FRINGE FOR CURTAINS.
This is a useful and very pretty fringe for toilet tables, curtains,
pincushions, &c., and is made of cotton, wool, worsted, silk, or any
other material; the first, however, is more useful, because it washes
well.
Set on ten stitches, and knit every row as follows:—
Slip the first stitch,
Knit the next stitch,
Put the cotton over the pin twice,
Turn two stitches together,
Turn the cotton back,
Put the cotton or wool, for the fringe, over the pin, leaving the ends
behind. Knit one stitch, turn the wool in front, knit two stitches,
turn the wool behind, knit two stitches, again bring the wool in front,
and knit the remaining stitch. Knit a row plain, taking the wool with
the stitch when you come to it, to make it quite firm.
The fringe should be cut in pieces of the proper length, and three or
four taken together, to be knit in at once.
STOCKINGS.
Knit stockings are considered so much better than woven ones for
wear, that it is advisable for all servants, cottagers and labourers
invariably to adopt them, as the former will last out three or more of
the woven, which are more suitable for the higher classes.
The children of the poor should always be taught to knit, and each
member of a family ought to have a stocking in hand to take up at idle
moments, by which means many pairs might be completed in the year.
It is difficult to make very correct scales for different sized knit
stockings, as so much depends on the quality of the worsted and of the
pins, as also on the knitter, as some persons work much slacker than
others, so that two stockings knit with the same pins and worsted, may
be of very different sizes when knit by different persons.
The following proportion for a general rule is good, and may prove
useful, though to tolerably experienced knitters, it is recommended to
procure a pair of stockings that fit very well, and to knit others like
them, which can easily be done by means of constantly measuring and
comparing them with the pattern.
GENERAL PROPORTIONS FOR STOCKINGS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 21.
Ascertain the proper breadth of the stocking.
From the top to the bend of the knee is one square,
or the length of the breadth.
From the bend of the knee to the beginning of the calf
is one square or breadth.
From the beginning to the end of the calf, is one square
or breadth.[2]
[2] In this square, we narrow as many stitches as are contained on
_one_ of our three pins, narrowing always twice on the same row,
placing one of them on each side of the seam stitch. We calculate
the number of rows intervening between each narrowing, by dividing
_half_ the number of stitches contained on one pin, with the number of
stitches contained on the three, and abide by the result.
For the small of the leg, one square or breadth; for the heel, half a
square; for the narrowing on each side of the instep, one quarter of
a square; from the heel to the narrowing of the toe, one and a half
square; for the narrowing, a quarter of a square.
Observe, that the squares always relate to the breadth of the stocking,
at the time the next square is begun.
In making up stockings, see that the pins and worsted are suitable to
each other; observe also to knit regularly, and let but one person knit
each pair, otherwise they will not match or look well.
Stockings are knit with four pins, three of which hold the stitches,
and the fourth serves to knit with.
After setting on the number of stitches required, dividing them equally
on the three pins (always observing, however, that one pin has an
uneven number), commence knitting round and round, according to the
scale, taking care always to make the middle or odd stitch in the one
pin a turn-stitch, which forms a kind of seam down the stocking, and
serves as a guide, by which the place of narrowing is more easily
ascertained.
After welting several rounds or bouts, continue knitting and widening,
or narrowing, according to the scale, observing to widen or narrow
invariably on each side, within one loop of the seam-stitch.
For a description of welting, widening, narrowing, binding, &c., refer
to knitting stitches and terms.
After knitting the heel and foot, the stitches are put upon two pins
instead of three, and the narrowing begun and continued; after which it
is fastened off, and the stocking completed.
SCALE FOR STOCKINGS.
Observe these are the proper proportions for stockings, when knit with
coarse worsted and pins.
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
| |Child|Child|Child|Child|Child |
| |of 4 |of 6 |of 9 |of 12|of 14 |
| | | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Stitches on each pin, allowing one | | | | | |
|extra for the seam-stitch in the | 16 | 18 | 20 | 25 | 30 |
|middle of one pin | | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Stitches altogether, including the | 49 | 55 | 61 | 76 | 91 |
|seam stitch | | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Knit rows for welting | 8 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 10 |
|Plain rows, or two squares | 49 | 55 | 61 | 76 | 91 |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Number of double narrowings, one | | | | | |
|on each side of the seam-stitch, | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 15 |
|at three rows between | | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Stitches altogether | 33 | 37 | 41 | 51 | 61 |
|Plain rows to the heel | 16 | 18 | 20 | 25 | 30 |
|Stitches upon one pin for the heel | 17 | 19 | 21 | 27 | 31 |
|Knit rows for the heel | 9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 16 |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Narrowings on each side the seam | 2 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 |
|stitch, at one row between | | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Bind down the heel | | | | | |
|Pick up loops on each side of the | 9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 16 |
|seam-stitch | | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Widen one row every third stitch on | 4 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 8 |
|each side of the heel | | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Narrow at the two corners of the | 24 | 27 | 30 | 37 | 45 |
|heel, at one row between | | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
|Knit off plain rows | | | | | |
|Put half the stitches on one pin and| | | | | |
|half on the other, and narrow till | 6 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 10 |
|there are stitches left on each pin | | | | | |
|Bind down and fasten off | | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
| |Child|Child| Man’s | Man’s|
| |of 16|of 18| Small or |Large.|
| | | | Woman’s | |
+------------------------------------|-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Stitches on each pin, allowing one | | | | |
|extra for the seam-stitch in the | 33 | 35 | 42 | 45 |
|middle of one pin | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Stitches altogether, including the | 100 | 106 | 127 | 136 |
|seam stitch | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Knit rows for welting | 12 | 16 | 20 | 24 |
|Plain rows, or two squares | 100 | 106 | 127 | 136 |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Number of double narrowings, one | | | | |
|on each side of the seam-stitch, | 16 | 17 | 21 | 22 |
|at three rows between | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Stitches altogether | 67 | 71 | 85 | 91 |
|Plain rows to the heel | 33 | 35 | 42 | 45 |
|Stitches upon one pin for the heel | 35 | 37 | 43 | 47 |
|Knit rows for the heel | 18 | 19 | 22 | 24 |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Narrowings on each side the seam | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
|stitch, at one row between | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Bind down the heel | | | | |
|Pick up loops on each side of the | 18 | 19 | 22 | 24 |
|seam-stitch | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Widen one row every third stitch on | 9 | 9 | 11 | 12 |
|each side of the heel | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Narrow at the two corners of the | 49 | 52 | 63 | 67 |
|heel, at one row between | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
|Knit off plain rows | | | | |
|Put half the stitches on one pin and| | | | |
|half on the other, and narrow till | 11 | 11 | 12 | 12 |
|there are stitches left on each pin | | | | |
|Bind down and fasten off | | | | |
+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+
SOCKS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 22.
Socks are often worn by men and boys of all classes, and are made
similarly to the stockings, excepting that the knitter begins
immediately after the two squares knit for stockings; welting, of
course, several bouts.
GARTERS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 33.
These are chiefly worn by females, and are merely narrow strips of
knitting, of three-quarters of a yard long, and a nail, more or less,
wide.
They are made of worsted, cotton, or soft wool; the latter is most
elastic and pleasant.
For garters, set on from twelve to twenty, or even thirty stitches,
according to the fineness of the material.
Knit backwards and forwards till of the proper length, when fasten off.
Some persons prefer a loop at the end; for which purpose, when near
the end, divide the stitches equally upon two pins, and knit each pin
about ten ribs, after which connect them together by binding them in
fastening off.
Garters are sometimes knit by putting the material, which is fine,
twice round the pin at every stitch, letting the pin be very thick.
Garters are sometimes ribbed, at others knit, in a succession of
squares of different patterns.
BABYS’ SOCKS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 24.
Set on thirty loops. Knit three ribs.
Narrow each end. Knit three ribs.
Narrow each end. Knit three ribs.
Narrow each end. Knit one row plain.
There are now eleven ribs and twenty-four loops on your pin. Put twelve
on another pin, and add fourteen. Knit three ribs, and narrow at the
toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the
toe. Narrow at the heel every other row three times. There ought to be
thirteen ribs. Add fourteen loops to the twelve left on the other pin,
and do the same. Join the two together and sew up the sock.
BABYS’ SOCKS, ANOTHER KIND.
Set on twenty-four stitches. Widen at the beginning of each row, till
there are twenty-eight stitches. Knit ten ribs, narrow at the heel,
twice at one end. Take twelve on one pin and add twelve, make another
side the same, and fasten off. Add fourteen stitches to the twelve that
were left, widen each end every rib till there are thirty. Knit ten
ribs and fasten off.
BABYS’ SOCKS OR BOOTS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 25.
Set on twenty-two stitches.
Knit three ribs, widening at the beginning and end of each rib.
Knit five ribs, widening at the toe end of each rib.
Stitches altogether, thirty-three.
Knit three plain ribs,
Take off eleven stitches from the toe end upon one pin, and
fasten off the rest.
Knit six ribs, widening every rib at the toe,
Knit six ribs, narrowing every rib at the toe,
Add twenty-two stitches to the eleven already on the pin,
making thirty-three.
Knit three plain ribs,
Knit five ribs, narrowing at the end of each rib,
Knit three ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end of each rib,
and fasten off.
This forms the shoe part of the sock, and is knit of some pretty
colour, as green or blue.
For the sock or upper part, pick up twelve stitches from the front
or top of the shoe, and knit with white wool.
Knit nine ribs, connecting it with the sides, by picking up the
stitches at each edge, as you knit along
Pick up the remaining coloured stitches on each side,
Knit three plain ribs, and then one row widened at the beginning
and end alternately, for four times;
Then knit two ribs, after which, one rib more of coloured work,
and fasten off,
Sew up the seams, and the sock is completed.
BABYS’ SOCKS, OR SLIPPERS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 26, 27.
This is a very pretty kind of sock, and from being worn in two colours
with a kind of sandal, resembles slippers worn over stockings.
Set on twenty stitches of coloured wool,
Widen one at the beginning and end of each rib, four times,
Widen at the beginning, or toe end of each rib, for two ribs,
Knit two plain ribs,
Knit nine stitches at the toe end, and fasten off the
remaining ones,
Knit the nine stitches, two ribs plain,
Widen at the beginning, or toe end of the three next ribs,
Knit three plain ribs,
Narrow at the beginning, or toe end of the next three ribs,
Knit two plain ribs,
Knit the next row, which should consist of nine stitches,
and add twenty-one stitches,
Knit two plain ribs,
Narrow at the toe end of each rib, for two more ribs,
Narrow at the beginning and end of each rib, for four times,
and fasten off,
Pick up thirteen stitches, in the front of the boot,
Knit eight plain stitches in white wool,
Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib,
Knit one plain rib,
Pick up the stitches on both sides at the top of the boot
on the same pin,
Knit two plain ribs in coloured wool, and continue afterwards
in white wool,
Narrow at the beginning and end of the next rib,
Knit two plain ribs,
Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib,
Knit three plain ribs,
Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib,
Knit three plain ribs,
Knit another rib in coloured wool, fasten off, and put a little
ribbon bow in front of the boot.
Sew or lace up the square in front of the boot all round.
CHILD’S LONG SOCK.
PLATE 21. FIG. 28.
This may be knit either of two colours, or entirely of white.
Set on thirty-four stitches,
Knit sixteen rows, turning every other stitch to form a welt,
Knit one rib of coloured wool and two of white, alternately
four times,
Knit two ribs white,
Take fifteen stitches on one pin, and add fifteen stitches,
Knit twelve plain ribs in coloured wool,
Knit three ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end of each row,
and fasten off;
Take up the fifteen stitches which project beyond the leg,
and which form the top or front of the boot,
Knit twelve plain ribs,
Knit three plain ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end
of each row, and fasten off.
The loose slit in front must be connected to the shoe part, by knitting
two stitches in the centre, forming a hole on each side, through which
the ribbon is drawn. Sew up the sock and it is completed. Sometimes the
boot has a little white intermixed with the colour; in which case, the
coloured wool is simply laid inside, and brought forward when wanted.
CHILD’S FIRST STOCKING OR SOCK.
PLATE 21. FIG. 29, 30.
This is commonly made with fine cotton, letting two rows be knit in
stocking, and one in garter or turn-stitch, alternately the whole way.
Set on twenty-two stitches to each of three pins,
Knit round and round for fifty-four rows,
Put thirty-three stitches on one pin for the heel,
Knit thirty-three rows, and bind the heel,
Pick up the remaining stitches, so as to have
twenty-two again on each pin,
Narrow once at each end of the heel for five rows,
Knit seventy-three rows,
Bind down the toe and fasten off.
THE RIBBED BOOT.
PLATE 21. FIG. 31.
Set on twenty stitches on each of the three pins,
Knit a square,
Put thirty stitches on one pin, and the remaining thirty
on another pin,
Continue knitting the thirty stitches on the pin for the instep,
towards the toe, which is generally about two squares,
Then narrow at each end till but five stitches remain on the pin,
then fasten off;
Next, take the other thirty stitches, and knit a square for the heel
and fasten off;
Knit two gores to put in between the front and heel on each side,
for which purpose,
Set on twenty stitches, and narrow at the beginning of every other
row till it ends in a point,
Set in the gores,
Next, make a sole by setting on fourteen stitches, or any number,
according to the width of the
foot. Knit it straight along, till of a sufficient length,
Sew the sole upon the boot, and the whole is complete.
This boot is generally ribbed by knitting two stitches and
turning two.
THE OVER SHOE.
PLATE 21. FIG. 32.
This is very convenient to slip over a satin shoe, or as a house shoe.
Set on thirty-four stitches.
Knit a plain square, double it, and sew it up one side
to form the heel; sew up about three inches to form
the instep, and pucker in the end for the toe.
THE SNOW-HEEL.
PLATE 21. FIG. 33.
This is very useful in slippery weather for persons to put over their
shoe or boot heels, to prevent their falling. It is particularly good
for old people and children.
Set on sixty-six stitches on one pin,
Knit five ribs,
Finish off four stitches on each side, and continue knitting
the middle part,
Knit fourteen ribs,
Knit twenty-five stitches, then narrow; knit six, again narrow,
and then knit the remainder.
Continue narrowing every alternate row twice in the row,
reducing the six centre stitches every time, so that at the
sixth narrowing there are none of them left. Fasten off.
LITTLE NIGHT BOOTS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 34.
These are made by knitting a piece of six nails long, and a nail and a
half or more deep. This, when fastened at the ends, is sewed to a sole,
which is made by knitting an oval piece.
For this sole, set on about six stitches and knit on,
widening at both ends, till about fifteen stitches
are upon the pin; continue knitting till nearly of
the proper length, and then begin narrowing down to
the six stitches again. Fasten off.
The sides of the boot are generally ornamented by knitting
four rows of garter-stitch of one colour, and then four
rows of stocking-stitch of another, and so on throughout.
About thirty stitches may be set on the pin.
A VERY PRETTY OVER SHOE.
PLATE 21. FIG. 35.
Set on thirty-six stitches on each of three pins;
Knit one plain round, after which knit fifty rows (more or less,
according to pleasure) in the welt of three, by which means
it is ribbed up and elastic, and will fit almost any person’s
foot.
If for a child of five or six years old, set on eighteen stitches
to each pin.
SOCKS FOR INVALIDS, OR THOSE WHO HAVE COLD FEET.
These are very useful for those who have cold feet, either to wear in
bed, or slip over the stockings when dressing; and as they set quite
close to the foot and ankle, they give a great deal of warmth.
They are best made of floss wool of five or six threads, and about two
and a half ounces of wool is sufficient for each pair. Whalebone or
wooden pins are used; they should not be very thick, considerably less
than a drawing pencil.
For women’s full sized socks cast on thirty-six stitches on three
needles, and knit ten plain rows, then turn the first stitch of the
next row; after this, for the thirty following rows, narrow thus—the
two last loops of the last needle must be knit as one; turn the first
loop of the next row, and take the two next loops off at once, taking
hold of the loops at the back instead of in the usual way. After this
you begin to welt, and the depth of the welting is regulated by fancy.
VERY PRETTY KNIT BOOTS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 36.
Commonly called Derby jail boots, at which place the female prisoners
are employed in making them.
SCALE FOR KNIT BOOTS.
+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+
| |Child|Child|Child|
| ———————— |of 8 |of 10|of 12|
+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+
|Loops set on one pin | 14 | 16 | 18 |
| | | | |
|Widen every rib on one end till the | 17 | 19 | 21 |
| number of loops are | | | |
| | | | |
|Knit plain ribs | 2 | 3 | 3 |
| | | | |
|Narrow every rib on one end, till the | | | |
| number of loops are | 14 | 16 | 18 |
| | | | |
|Number of loops to be added, half of which | | | |
| are to be set on the pin with the | | | |
| stitches already on, and the other half| | | |
| on a fresh pin immediately joining it | 20 | 22 | 24 |
| | | | |
|Pick up the stitches on the second pin, | | | |
| which were first set on for the toe | | | |
| | | | |
|Ribs knit for the side of the foot | 7 | 8 | 9 |
| | | | |
|Pick up loops to the toe | | | |
| | | | |
|Ribs for the bottom of the foot | 1 | 2 | 2 |
| | | | |
|Pick up the loops round the ankle, | | | |
| and narrow every rib on the right | | | |
| side three or four stitches from | 10 | 11 | 12 |
| the front of the rows | | | |
| | | | |
|Fasten off | | | |
+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| |Child|Child|Child| |
| ———————— |of 14|of 16|of 18|Woman|
+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+
|Loops set on one pin | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 |
| | | | | |
|Widen every rib on one end till the | 26 | 28 | 31 | 33 |
| number of loops are | | | | |
| | | | | |
|Knit plain ribs | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| | | | | |
|Narrow every rib on one end, till the | | | | |
| number of loops are | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 |
| | | | | |
|Number of loops to be added, half of which | | | | |
| are to be set on the pin with the | | | | |
| stitches already on, and the other half| | | | |
| on a fresh pin immediately joining it | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 |
| | | | | |
|Pick up the stitches on the second pin, | | | | |
| which were first set on for the toe | | | | |
| | | | | |
|Ribs knit for the side of the foot | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 |
| | | | | |
|Pick up loops to the toe | | | | |
| | | | | |
|Ribs for the bottom of the foot | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 |
| | | | | |
|Pick up the loops round the ankle, | | | | |
| and narrow every rib on the right | | | | |
| side three or four stitches from | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 |
| the front of the rows | | | | |
| | | | | |
|Fasten off | | | | |
+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+
These boots may be knit in two wools, white and coloured. They should
have leather soles sewed on, to make them more durable. They should
have fringe, and worsted platted strings.
NIGHT SOCKS.
Coarse lamb’s wool and thick pins.
Set on thirty-six stitches, knit ten ribs, put eighteen on
one pin, and knit twelve ribs; narrow each rib at the
heel twice, making in all fourteen ribs. The other side
the same. Pick up loops on both the side pieces; for the
toe, knit ten ribs; narrow every rib on each side, so
that the narrowings shall be on the sides of the foot, and
not at the bottom; seven narrowings, and finish in a point.
VERY NEAT NIGHT SOCKS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 37.
Set forty-six stitches on one pin,
Knit twenty-seven plain ribs,
Add twenty stitches, setting them equally on three pins,
Knit twenty-six plain bouts or rounds,
Divide the stitches, letting half of them lie on one pin,
and the other half equally divided between two pins.
This arrangement makes it easier to knit than on two pins,
and, at the same time, distinctly marks the half for the
two narrowings;
Narrow on each side of the pin with half the stitches.
SQUARE NIGHT BOOTS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 38.
Set on forty loops, knit the two first stitches plain,
the rest double knitting till it is a square bag;
fasten it off, making it to open at the top; large
pins and coarse; lamb’s wool.
KNIT SOLE.
PLATE 21. FIG. 39.
This is a sole to put within a shoe or boot, and is made in double
knitting and sewed to a piece of stiff muslin of the proper shape, and
bound all round with ribbon.
For a good average size, set on fourteen stitches, knit in double
knitting for twenty-three rows, and fasten off. The knitting must be
brought into shape by taking it in with the galloon, when wanted to be
narrowed.
KNEE CAP.
PLATE 21. FIG. 40.
Set on one pin forty-seven stitches,
Knit plain seventeen ribs,
Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, widen, knit a stitch,
widen again, and knit the remaining twenty-three stitches.
Every alternate row, widen at each of the above widenings exactly
in a straight line, so that the increase of stitches falls
in the centre, forming a gore or half diamond.
Knit sixteen plain ribs,
Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, narrow, knit
thirty-six stitches, narrow again, knit the remaining
twenty-three stitches.
Every alternate row, narrow in a straight line, over each of
these two narrowings, so as to reduce the stitches between
by degrees to a point again, at the end of thirteen ribs.
Knit thirty-one plain ribs;
Next row, fasten off four stitches, and knit the rest of the row;
knit a plain row;
Next row, fasten off four more stitches, and knit the rest of
the row; knit a plain row;
Next row, same as above, and then fasten off,
and sew up the seams.
KNIT GLOVES, LARGE SIZE.
Put eighteen stitches on a pin, leave about thirteen rows open (by
knitting backwards and forwards instead of round) for the thumb; knit
round till you come to the fingers. Put half the stitches on one pin,
and half on the other. Take nine stitches off each pin for the first
finger, and add eight between the first and second finger to make a
gore, then there will be twenty-six stitches on your pins altogether;
knit two rows plain, narrow every other row at each end of the eight
loops you added, for three times on each side; there should now be
twenty stitches left. Knit plain till the finger is long enough. Then
narrow twice at each end of the finger, leaving one stitch between the
two narrowings on each side. Do this every other row three times, when
there will be eight loops left, divide them on two pins and bind them
down. For the second finger, take six stitches off each pin, and pick
up eleven stitches for a gore, between the second and third fingers.
Knit two rows plain; there should then be thirty-four stitches; narrow
every other row on each side of _both_ the gores three times. There
should then be twenty-two stitches. Finish the finger like the other.
For the third finger, take six stitches off each pin, pick up ten
at the bottom of the last gore, and add ten for the new gore; there
are then thirty-two stitches. Narrow as before, and there should
then be twenty left. For the little finger, pick up ten stitches for
the gore, and the six off the two pins make twenty-two, after the
narrowings there should be sixteen stitches left. For the thumb, pick
up three stitches at the bottom of the hole, and knit backwards and
forwards, picking up an extra stitch each time, till there are sixteen
stitches on a pin, then pick up three at the top, and knit backwards
and forwards till there are eight. Join all together, and knit round;
finish the thumb as the fingers.
DRIVING MITS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 41.
These are very useful for gentlemen or coachmen, in severe weather,
being double on the out, and single in the inside.
Set on forty stitches on ivory pins, of thick soft floss wool. Knit
several rows in double knitting until half the muffatee is completed,
when knit the remainder in imitation double knitting, which is not
so clumsy for the palm of the hand, when grasping reins, &c. When
completed, sew it up, leaving a hole of a full nail for the thumb, at
half a nail’s distance from the end.
BABY’S MITTENS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 42.
Set on twenty stitches on each of three pins, and knit plain one square.
Knit backwards and forwards along two of the pins, letting every other
row be turn-stitch, for another square, and fasten off.
Knit the other pin in a similar manner for thirty rows, and fasten off.
Sew up the hand and thumb, and add a fringe or a ribbon to tie, or, if
preferred, it may be begun with a welt at the wrist.
MITTENS.
Set on twenty-two loops on each of the three pins, welt twenty rows,
knit one row plain, next row alternate _turn and plain_, third row
plain, fourth row alternate _plain and turn_, so that the plain stitch
is over the one that was turned before, and so on till you come to the
beginning of the thumb. Then knit backwards and forwards, leaving a
hole for the thumb. Then knit round again, and finish with a welt. To
make a thumb, pick up three loops at the top of the hole left, and knit
backwards and forwards, picking up an additional loop at the end of
each row, for about ten rows. Then pick up three loops at the bottom of
the hole, and do the same till you meet the stitches at the top. Join
all together and knit round and round till it is long enough; welt five
or six rows and finish.
THE KNIT ARMLET.
PLATE 21. FIG. 43.
This is very suitable for school girls to wear over their arms, or for
old persons, or people when travelling. They may be made as high as the
elbow, or up to the shoulder. Little children, in severe weather, wear
them over their little naked arms to prevent them from chapping. Fine
black lamb’s wool is most usually worn, in which case, it should be
well steeped in vinegar, and then dried, to prevent the dye coming off.
For a grown-up person, one hundred stitches will reach to the elbow.
Knit plain, as you would a garter, backwards and forwards, using large
ivory or steel pins. About twenty rows (more or less, according to the
size of the arm) are sufficient. Sew down the whole length, leaving an
opening of about a nail long to admit the thumb, sewing beyond it to
the end, about half a nail or less. When worn, they cling to the hand
and arm, keep them warm, and look particularly neat.
Some persons prefer them welted at the top and bottom, or ribbed the
whole way.
KNIT MUFFATEE.
PLATE 21. FIG. 44.
This is made simply by setting on forty stitches, and knitting three
rows plain and three rows turn-stitch, till wide enough, when it is
sewed up, leaving a hole for the thumb. It looks very neat in black or
light grey. Use finest wool and pins.
MUFFATEE.
PLATE 21. FIG. 45.
This is in plain knitting.
Set on twenty stitches,
Knit twenty-eight ribs.
Fringe is sewed on with a carpet needle in a kind of cross-stitch,
being wound over a mesh of the proper width.
MUFFATEE.
PLATE 21. FIG. 26.
This is extremely pretty, made of the two coloured ribbed stitch, or
the two coloured chain stitch.
Set on thirty loops, and knit the first and last three loops of every
pin plain knitting, of one colour, to make a kind of border. Continue
this for about twenty-two ribs, when sew up, and either add fringe, or
not, according to pleasure.
MUFFATEES.
Use fine pins and merino wool. Set on seventy four loops, knit six
rows, backwards and forwards, then six rows double knitting, and so on
alternately three times of double, and four of plain; then knit twelve
double, six plain, and finish off. Sew it up.
MUFFATEES.
Set on an even number of stitches (twenty for a child, thirty for a
lady, or fifty for a man) on an ivory pin.
Knit four, six, or eight stitches plain, according to the above sizes,
and continue the row in imitation double knitting stitch, making as
many plain stitches at the end of the row, as at the beginning.
Continue knitting backwards and forwards until sufficient is done for
the thickness of the wrist.
Sew or lace it up, and it is completed.
FRILL OR RUFF.
PLATE 21. FIG. 47.
These are very soft for children, and are generally knit of two
coloured wools and with ivory pins of a middling thickness.
Set on thirty-five stitches for a child, and fifty for
a grown-up person.
Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool,
Knit ten rows, putting the wool twice round the pin,
with white wool.
Again, knit four plain rows with the coloured wool,
and ten rows putting the wool twice round the pin,
with the white wool.
Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool, and fasten off.
Make up the frill as follows:—
Plat or double each white row, making the three sets of white rows lie
side by side, so as to stand up, and have a square appearance. When
done, lay the frill the wrong side uppermost, and sew the middle row of
each set of stitches together, side by side, all along.
Sew a ribbon at each end, to tie.
A RUFF.
PLATE 21. FIG. 48.
This is particularly useful for children to tie round the neck, and
is knit with fine wool and coarse pins. It may be knit in the raised
French stitch, or the open hem, or any other elastic soft stitch.
Set a sufficient number of stitches on the pin to be about two nails
wide, and knit six or eight nails long, and when done, sew up along the
side, and after drawing a piece of rolled wadding through, draw it, or
sew it up at each end, and attach ribbons, or worsted cord to tie it.
It resembles a boa in shape.
A SCARF.
PLATE 21. FIG. 49.
Set on sixty stitches (more or less, according to taste), always
choosing an even number, and knit along in the “Imitation Network
Stitch, No. 8,” to the length required, from one yard and a half to two
yards. Next make a fringe by setting on eighteen stitches, and, after
knitting a sufficient quantity in the same stitch to sew along the two
ends, fasten off, leaving, however, fourteen stitches to unrove, to
form the fringe.
These scarfs look beautiful in shaded colours, and may be knit of
floss silk, netting silk, cotton, thread, or wool. The above number of
stitches is calculated for wool.
ANOTHER SCARF.
This is made of the “French Raised Stitch, No. 31,” and looks
exceedingly beautiful, when made with fine wool and small pins.
The number of stitches depends, of course, on the quality of the wool;
it is therefore impossible to set down any fixed number; suffice it to
say it should be made of the usual width. At the ends fix some long
fringe, of which there are various kinds given in this work.
COMFORTER.
PLATE 21. FIG. 50.
For one comforter, buy a quarter of a pound of lamb’s wool. The six
thread, untwisted, is the best.
Set forty stitches on a pin, and, if the pins are not very thick, put
the wool twice round them while knitting every stitch, which should be
knit in double knitting, and may have a border and fringe at the ends
to give a finish, in which case, a little more wool will be required.
COMFORTER.
PLATE 21. FIG. 51.
Set thirty stitches on one pin,
Knit sixty-four plain ribs, backwards and forwards,
Pick up twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side
of the piece, leaving twenty-one stitches on each
side from the end.
Knit on backwards and forwards for twenty-two ribs,
to make a chest piece, and fasten off.
Sew up the two ends of the long piece, and it is completed.
When worn, the comforter is drawn over the head, letting
the chest piece hang down in front.
This is knit with soft wool and upon ivory pins.
ANOTHER COMFORTER, THE SAME SHAPE, BUT DONE IN DOUBLE KNITTING.
PLATE 21. FIG. 51.
Set on fifty-four stitches, and knit in double knitting, about
sixty-six or seventy rows, and fasten off, by knitting or binding the
two ends together.
From the middle of the length in front, pick up stitches for the chest
piece, and knit forty rows or more, according to pleasure.
A HANDKERCHIEF.
PLATE 21. FIG. 52.
This is a small and very warm handkerchief, to wear under a shawl or
fur tippet, in the winter; it is knit with pretty thick floss wool,
either white or coloured, in blue or crimson it looks well; the needles
used are either of wood, whalebone, or cane.
Cast on 160 common stitches, and knit one plain row, then nine rows of
double knitting with a plain stitch at the beginning and end of each
row, continue this double knitting, narrowing at one end, until the
handkerchief is brought to five or six stitches, then take it off like
a garter. This bottom corner is bound with ribbon, and two strings put
on to tie round the waist, the other two ends are also bound, and a
ribbon loop put on each, the ribbon passes through these loops, and it
fits neatly to the figure.
LITTLE KNIT HABIT-SHIRT.
PLATE 21. FIG. 53, 54, 55.
These are remarkably nice things to wear under the shawl, as they set
close to the chest, and give a great deal of warmth. They are best knit
with small wooden or thick steel pins, and with floss wool, about three
or four threads, and in double knitting.
The habit-shirt is in four pieces, namely, one back, two fronts and one
collar.
The back should be cut out to fit the person tolerably, and the fronts
joined to it on the shoulder, and brought across over the chest.
Observe, in the Plate that in Fig. 53, SS represent the straight parts,
and PP the sloped.
Begin to knit the front, by setting on as many stitches as will form
the length required from S to A, or top, and observe, as you continue
knitting, that one end of the knitting must be much more sloped than
the other, for which purpose, at that end most sloped, increase at
the beginning and end of the row, but at the side which is less
sloped, widen only at the end of the pin. Having made the two fronts
to match each other so as to be a pair, begin making the back. Begin
it at the bottom or narrow straight part at the waist; increase it at
the beginning and end of each row, till sufficiently wide to go from
shoulder to shoulder; after which, diminish in the same way at each end
of every row to the neck. Take off or finish the few centre stitches
that may remain, and knit up first on one side, and then on the other,
lessening each row till it is properly hollowed.
The collar is merely a straight piece.
In making up, sew the sides marked P, to each side of the back marked
ZZ, and sew on the collar all round. Put a ribbon behind, to tie round
the waist, and another at the throat.
A PRETTY KNIT HALF-HANDKERCHIEF.
Begin the handkerchief from one stitch, knit as many rows, increasing
one stitch every row at the same end, until there are seven loops upon
the pin.
Begin the pattern thus:—
Make a stitch,
Slip off a stitch,
Knit two together,
Put the slipped stitch over the two just knitted in one.
Again make a stitch,
Slip off a stitch,
Knit two stitches,
Put the slipped stitch over as before,
Continue thus until four stitches from the end of the row,
then make a stitch, and knit the four remaining stitches
plain.
Knit every alternate row in turn-stitch;
This alternate row must have the three last stitches knit plain,
increasing it by making a stitch.
The handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the
straight side. When done, fasten off.
HONEYCOMB-KNIT SHAWL.
This is made of fine lamb’s wool or yarn; it looks very well when the
centre is white, with a shaded border of some bright colour.
For a small shawl, or a large handkerchief, the following quantity is
required:—
Three ounces of fine white lamb’s wool.
Two skeins of the darkest shade of colour.
Two skeins of the next.
Two skeins of the next.
One skein of the lightest.
The needles are of wood, rather fine, not so thick as a drawing pencil.
The centre is first knit, beginning with only two loops on your needle,
to make the point fine; knit several plain rows, raising one loop in
each row; the raising is merely knitting first the outside and then the
inside of the last loop, and is continued in every row, whether plain
or open, through the whole shawl.
When you have ten loops on your needle begin your pattern, which is
done as follows:—
Knit four plain stitches, bring the wool in front of the
needle, and then, taking hold of two loops instead of
one, knit them plainly together; continue this till
within four loops of the end, which must be knit plain.
Always begin and end every open row with four plain
stitches.
Knit three plain rows between each figured one. When you
have from 200 to 250 loops, (which will make a good
sized shawl), begin the border, which looks best dark at
the edges, and shaded up to light in the middle. Before
beginning the border at the top, it is best to knit
three or four plain rows of the white wool; and observe,
that as there is a right and a wrong side to the shawl,
the first row of the border must be continued so as to
suit it, by knitting one, more or less, of the plain
white rows.
Begin with your darkest shade of border, and knit three or
more rows of it, according to taste; then the second,
the third, the lightest, the third again, second, and
darkest, increasing one loop in every row, both open and
plain, as before; the last three or four rows should be
plain, to make the edge firm. Then fasten off.
Begin the side border by taking up all the inside loops, as
those in the heel of a stocking are done, and begin with
the dark shade as at the top, and in the _first row
only_, raise a loop every fifth stitch, which may be
easily done by taking up the little bars or loops that
lie between the stitches; go on as before, raising one
loop at the end of every row.
Be careful to begin all the borders on the same side, as,
in consequence of the manner of taking up the loops,
there is a difference.
The raising the loops at the side border is done to make it set loosely
to the shawl, as, if it were not thus enlarged, it would be tight and
confined. The corners and point of the border are neatly joined with a
needle and thread.
A TIPPET.
PLATE 21. FIG. 56.
Cut out a tippet or cape of the proper shape and size in paper, and
then divide it into five equal portions; each portion may be considered
a gore, and by measuring by the stitches put on the pin with the
pattern, the right number may easily be ascertained. These gores may be
made to increase equally on both sides, as in the Plate, or only on one
side. Sometimes long ends are continued with the two front gores, to
make a sort of mantilla or pelerine.
Neat tippets might be made with advantage for school girls at times
when worsteds are cheap.
FOR A PURSE.
Set on one pin ninety or a hundred stitches, knit the first stitch, put
the silk over the pin, then slip a stitch and knit a stitch; turn the
slipped stitch over the last knit one, and so on all through the pin;
then seam the next row, and so on till completed, when fasten off.
FOR A PURSE
Use four pins. If the silk twist be fine it requires two skeins—if
coarse, three skeins; or, if to be made of two colours, half that
quantity. Cast on your three pins eighteen loops, if fine, or sixteen
loops, if coarse, and begin (after one plain row) to knit in raised
French stitch (see No. 31); and when sufficient rounds have been
completed to form fourteen holes length-wise, knit backwards or
forwards on two pins in the same stitch, to form the opening; after
complete fourteen more holes or batterns, join the purse again by
knitting in three pins, as before, until fourteen more holes are done,
when bind down and fasten off.
FOR A PURSE,
Two skeins of silk are sufficient (generally of two colours); use four
pins, set on four stitches on each pin; begin to knit plain round and
round, widen one stitch each round, until you have eighteen stitches on
each pin (measure here how much silk you have used that you may know
how much to reserve for narrowing with), then knit one stitch plain
and one turned for every round, until time to make the opening, when
put all your stitches on one needle, knitting backwards and forwards,
taking care to preserve the stitch by knitting the back rows properly,
by turning the stitches that were before knit plain, continue this till
the one skein is used up, when you are at the middle of your purse;
take the other skein as many rows again, backwards and forwards, then
join the opening by putting the stitches on three needles, as before,
and knit round and round until you have but enough silk left for the
narrowing, when begin to knit plain, narrowing every round until
reduced to four stitches, as before, on each pin, when fasten off.
FOR A PURSE.
Cast seventy-five stitches on one pin; two skeins of silk are
sufficient, and very fine pins are best; after knitting one plain row,
continue as follows: knit one stitch plain, and then knit the silk
twice round the pin, knit two stitches together in turn stitch; again
put the silk twice round the pin, and knit two stitches together in
turn stitch, and so on to every row, remembering that the first stitch
in every row is knit plain.
PRETTY NEW PURSE PATTERN.
Use four pins and set on each of three pins eighteen or twenty loops,
Knit one plain round, and then continue for another round as follows:—
Bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a stitch,
then turn the slipped stitch over the knit one;
Again bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a
stitch, and turn the slipped stitch over the knit one, and so
on to the end of the round,
Knit the two next rounds plain,
And continue alternately knitting one round of the pattern, and two
rounds plain, until the purse is finished.
RECEIPT FOR A ZEPHYRINE.
This is a very convenient thing to lie over the head instead of a
bonnet, especially in travelling, and is generally knit of two colours.
It should be knit with Berlin wool, on two rather fine pins, with knobs
at the end.
Set on your pin 100 stitches,
Knit a row plain,
Turn, or purl a row,
Repeat this twice more each,
Then change the colour, and continue knitting and purling
alternately, three rows each,
Again change to the first colour, and continue knitting and
purling, three rows more each,
Continue thus changing colour until there are five stripes
of one colour, and six stripes of the other,
when it is finished,
Then gather the ends to a point, bind them with ribbon,
and sew on strings to match the darkest colour.
A ZEPHYR.
This is a soft shawl to lay a baby on, or carry it out in, and is
desirable on account of its warmth and lightness. Some are made square,
others of a half-handkerchief shape.
In either case, set on about 130 or more stitches, and knit in
honeycomb or French raised stitch, the embossed, hexagon, or any other
simple pretty pattern preferred. A border and fringe may be added,
according to taste, and certainly gives a rich finish to it.
A BABY’S CAP.
Put on eighty stitches on the three pins, so as to have 240 stitches;
knit twelve, turning every alternate stitch; in the next row turn the
stitch which was plain before; take in eighty stitches, one at every
fourth stitch, so as to leave a full border; then knit one row plain,
one open row, three rows plain, and twenty-four rows double knitting;
then knit three rows plain, one open row, three rows plain, twenty-four
rows double knitting, three rows plain, one open row, and three rows
plain.
Cast on twenty-four stitches at each end of the first three plain, to
form the back of the cap; then knit forty-eight rows double knitting
the whole length; then take in gradually to the size of the crown in
one row, knit three rows plain, one open row; again three plain; fasten
off at the top, join up the back, and knit three rows plain, one open
row, and three plain.
The crown is made by putting on sixteen stitches, and increasing one
at each end for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen rows; then decrease
sixteen rows, which forms the circle.
A BABY’S CAP.
PLATE 21. FIG. 57.
Set on one stitch on each of three pins, and knit a circular piece of
knitting in hole-stitch, until there are 110 stitches altogether on the
three pins.
Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes,
and one of garter rib,
Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes,
and one rib of garter-stitch,
Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, and one of garter,
Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, one of garter,
two of stocking, and two of garter,
Finish off twenty-two stitches, and divide the remainder
of the stitches on two pins,
Knit three ribs of stocking, making holes at six stitches
distance, which serve for ribbons,
Knit three ribs of garter-stitch, two of stocking, six of
garter, three of stocking, one row of holes, four ribs
of stocking, six ribs of garter, three ribs of stocking,
one row of holes, four ribs of stocking, six ribs of
garter, and three of stocking; after which three more of
stocking, with holes at six stitches distance, to admit
of a second ribbon.
For the border, continue knitting twenty rows in huckaback
stitch; for the border behind, take up the stitches
at the ear on each side, and knit sufficient rows in
huckaback stitch till each strip is long enough to reach
the middle of the back. Put in a ribbon behind, and the
whole is completed.
A BABY’S BONNET OR HOOD.
PLATE 21. FIG. 58.
For the border, set on eighty stitches and knit in huckaback stitch,
narrow one stitch at each end of every other row, till you have knit
ten rows. Next, commence the head-piece, and knit six rows in double
knitting, the one row of holes, eight rows of double knitting, one
of holes, and six rows of double knitting, then begin to knit in
honeycomb-stitch, fasten off two stitches at the end of each pin, every
row until there are but twenty-four on the pin, then fasten off.
For the crown, set on five stitches, widen each row till you have
sixteen loops, then knit twelve rows. Narrow at each end for two rows,
knit fourteen rows and fasten off. Sew the crown to the head-piece with
wool of the same quality.
Begin the curtain by taking up all the stitches at the back, and
knitting six rows in double knitting, widening four stitches on each
pin; then one row of holes, widening two stitches; then six rows of
double knitting still widening, one of holes, widening two stitches,
and double knitting, increasing till there are 150 stitches on the pin,
then fasten off, and put in ribbons through the holes where wanted.
A GENTLEMAN’S NIGHT-CAP.
PLATE 21. FIG. 59.
This cap has a very pretty appearance, something resembling old
fashioned insertion-lace, as there is an ornamented border round the
head. It is done with fine needles and cotton, and knit round like a
stocking. The plan is as follows:—
Cast on any number of stitches, divisable by thirteen.
1st Row. Turn one, knit one, turn one, slip one, knit one.
Draw the slipt loop over, knit six plain, bring the
cotton over, as though going to turn, knit one, bring
your cotton to the top and knit one.
2nd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
3rd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit five,
bring the cotton to the top and knit two.
4th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
5th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit four,
bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton
to the top, knit three.
6th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
7th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit three,
bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton
to the top, knit four.
8th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
9th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit two,
bring the cotton to the top, knit five.
10th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.
11th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit one,
bring the cotton to the top, knit six.
12th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit
nine, knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds, knit
one round, throwing the cotton twice over the needle;
turn one round, repeat this until you have eighteen
turned rounds. Knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds,
take four needles, and knit and turn three rounds
alternately, narrowing at each needle end, having a
turn, knit and seam between each narrowing; continue
this until there are four loops on each needle, which
will draw round the tassel.
KNIT BAGS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 60, 61.
Very pretty bags may be made of fantail stitch in silk twist, for which
purpose set on as many stitches, divisable by fourteen, as are required
for the width of the bag. About four times fourteen or fifty-six
stitches will be a useful size, adding, if preferred, four extra
stitches on each end, and between each of the fourteen stitches, to
separate the pattern more effectually, and make it look richer. These
extra stitches will amount to five times four or twenty, making in all
seventy-six stitches. Knit the four stitches of any pattern preferred;
supposing the open hem, No. 4, is selected, then knit as follows:—
Set on seventy-six stitches, knit four plain ribs,
and six turn-stitch rows.
Open hem the first four stitches,
Fantail the next fourteen stitches,
Open hem the next four stitches, and so on, till the last open hemmed
four stitches complete the row.
Continue as above till a sufficient length is done for both sides of
the bag, after which, seam it up, and put cord and tassels to complete
the whole, lining it or not, according to pleasure.
KETTLE HOLDERS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 62.
This is knit in double knitting, with a border of plain ribs round.
Set thirty-two stitches on one pin,
Knit four ribs plain,
Knit double knitting, letting the first four stitches and the
last four stitches of every row be plain knitting.
When the double knit part is quite square, add the four ribs
of plain knitting, to complete the border, and fasten off.
A little loop of twisted wool is put at the top to hang it by.
KNIT MATS, OR KETTLE HOLDERS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 63.
This is knit to resemble fringe all over, and when well done looks very
pretty.
Use fine needles and a common kind of worsted for knitting the wool
fringe, which must be thick and soft.
Set on any number of stitches, and knit one plain row, after which,
begin the next row by knitting one plain stitch, then put the wool
between the pins round the fingers, and back again between the pins in
front, and so on, similar to the rug stitch, No. 33.
KNIT OPEN BRAID.
PLATE 21. FIG. 64.
This is very simple, and if done with cord or thick cotton or worsted,
might be very useful for sewing on, to ornament children’s dresses; or
if of silk twist, for putting round pincushions, curtains, &c.
Set on one stitch, and knit as many stitches as the longest pin will
possibly hold. Knit two rows plain, and then unrove one row by pulling
out the pin, and draw the wool through the last loop, to keep it from
roving still further. The braid is thus formed, and must be sewed on at
each top and bottom loop.
KNIT MATS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 65.
Set on thirty stitches or more, according to the size required, and
knit in the two coloured chain-stitch till a square is completed, when
make a fringe, No. 1, and sew it round. When completed, cut it and comb
it out, taking care not to pull out the bits by drawing too hard.
COVERLET.
PLATE 21. FIG. 66.
This is knit with cotton, and is composed of several squares sewed
together. These squares are begun at one corner, commencing with two
stitches, and increasing to fifty or more, by widening at each end of
each row. It is then decreased by narrowing at each end of each row,
and fastened off when two stitches are left on the pins. These squares
are often ornamented, sometimes by knitting one row turn-stitch, seven
rows plain, backwards and forwards, and so on, so as to form three ribs
garter, and one rib stocking-stitch.
Some persons ornament each square differently, others merely sew them,
so that the rows shall run or lie in different positions. A border with
fringe may be put round, for which purpose, refer to the stitches for
fringes, &c.
The huckaback pattern is very suitable for coverlets.
BLANKETS.
These are usually made for infants’ cradles and invalids, on account of
their warmth and lightness; they should be knit with very large pins
and thick wool, and in double knitting all the way, having a border of
imitation double knitting or huckaback all round, to keep them more in
place.
Set on from 100 to 200 stitches, according to the size
required, knitting about ten ribs of border, after which
the remainder is plain double knitting. Observe that the
first and last eight or ten loops on each end of the pin
be knit in the border-stitch.
COTTON DOYLEYS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 67.
These are very pretty, and may be made in various stitches.
The following is a particularly pretty way:—
Set on thirty-eight stitches,
Knit two plain ribs,
Continue knitting two plain stitches and two turn stitches,
remembering every two ribs to knit plain stitches over
turn stitches, and turn stitches over plain, so as to
form a kind of ornamental knitting, resembling huckaback
or checks.
Observe, the two last, as well as the two first stitches of
every row are plain, to continue the border; also knit
two plain ribs to correspond, before fastening off. Sew
in the fringe, No. 2.
ANOTHER DOYLEY.
This is similar to the one before, excepting that it is knit in
honeycomb or hole-stitch.
A HANDSOME BORDER AND CORNERS FOR A SHAWL.
This is a very beautiful pattern when properly done, and would answer
well for a shawl, a baby’s zephyrine, a mat, carpet, counterpane, or
any other article enclosed in a square.
The border (which is a kind of fantail stitch) is ended at each corner
by squares, which gives great lightness to the whole.
In beginning one of these corners, set on but two stitches on the pin
to form the point; and observe, as you go on, to increase one stitch
at the end of every row, until the square or diamond is knit to a
sufficient width (say thirteen rows) when decrease every row one stitch
at the end, until the number of loops on your pin is reduced to two
again, when fasten off, and the square is completed.
The stitch with which the square is knitted is formed as follows; and
the number of ribs at the side should be divisable by six and one over,
to be the proper width for the border; thirteen is a very good number
of ribs.
Begin the square by knitting plain every row until you have thirteen
stitches on your pin (remembering to increase one stitch at the end of
each row) and then continue as below.
1st Row. Knit six stitches plain,
Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch,
Knit two together,
Knit the remaining stitches plain.
Next Row. Knit plain,
Knit six stitches plain,
Pass the cotton in front, to make a stitch,
Knit two stitches together,
Pass the cotton in front again, to make a stitch,
Knit two stitches together,
Knit the remaining stitches plain.
Next Row. Knit plain.
Continue the above, observing that every alternate row is
knit plain, and the rows between knit in the above
stitch; always leaving six plain stitches at each end of
the pin, to make a kind of little border to the square.
When complete, begin the border by picking up the stitches on one side
of the square, and then continue thus:—
1st Row. Seam a stitch,
Knit a stitch,
Seam a stitch,
Knit two stitches,
Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch.
Knit a stitch.
Repeat the same for six more stitches; then,
Knit one stitch.
Next Row. Knit a stitch,
Seam a stitch,
Knit a stitch,
Knit two together,
Seam eleven stitches,
Knit two together.
Next Row. Seam a stitch,
Knit one,
Seam one,
Knit two together,
Knit nine plain,
Knit three together.
Next Row. Knit a stitch,
Seam a stitch,
Knit a stitch,
Knit two together,
Seam seven stitches,
Knit two together.
Continue these four rows successively, until the border is long
enough to insert another corner or square, as before.
GENTLEMAN’S TRAVELLING CAPS.
These are remarkably pretty and comfortable, and should be made of
shaded wool or silk, and are knit with two pins only.
Set on an even number of stitches,
Knit the first row plain;
Observe to slip off the first stitch of every row
throughout, and continue as follows:—
1st Row. (After slipping the first stitch) put the wool in front
to make a stitch,
Slip off a stitch the contrary way,
Knit a stitch, as before,
Continue this until at the end of the row,
Next Row. (After, as usual, slipping off the 1st stitch) knit two
stitches together the whole way, leaving one at the
end to knit plain. Repeat this.
SOFA FOOT COVERS, OR WARMERS.
These are useful for the feet of an invalid, when lying on the sofa,
and are knit as follows:—
Set on one pin 174 stitches, and knit one plain row, after
which knit eleven or twelve rows in any fancy stitch
to form a border, and then commence double knitting,
remembering to continue the border pattern at each side,
by knitting the first and last twelve stitches on the
pin, every row in the same fancy stitch.
Continue this until your work is square, when open it like
a bag, which must be done by gently taking out your pin
and picking up the loops on two pins, each pin taking up
the alternate loops. Knit a similar border as that made
at the beginning, to each pin of stitches, and fasten
off. The foot warmer, or bag, is then completed, and may
have a fringe sewn on all round, to give a finish to the
whole.
RETICULE BAG.
This is knit in two colours, say violet and green.
Set on your pin any number of stitches divisible by six,
(about seventy-eight is a good size), and, after
knitting one plain row, fasten on the other colour and
knit six stitches with the violet and six with the
green, alternately, to the end of the row.
Next row, knit entirely turn-stitch, still knitting six
stitches, alternately, of the two colours, taking care
that each colour shall be knit in continuation of
itself, so as to form distinct stripes.
Continue knitting alternate rows of plain stitch and
seam-stitch, until the work is so long, as when doubled
will form a well-proportioned reticule bag. Observe, in
passing the wool behind of one colour across the other,
not to pull it tight; when completed, fasten off; line
with buckram and flannel and violet green or gold silk;
put a cord of silk or wool all round, with cord handles
and tassels.
This makes a durable handsome bag, and may be knit of even
more colours or shades, if preferred.
Reticules knit with other stitches look very pretty, as the
herring-bone back-stitch,
The two coloured rib-stitch,
The two coloured chain-stitch.
Or the above striped pattern may be varied by arranging the stripes in
checks instead.
Papier machée tops are now made for bags, which look very handsome.
KNIT PETTICOAT.
For delicate children, a knit petticoat is far warmer and lighter than
a flannel one, and is knit in double knitting, or in imitation double
knitting:—for a child of four or six years of age, set on 400 stitches
and knit the proper length, when finish with a few plain rows and
fasten off. Sew up the seam to the proper distance behind.
CHILD’S KNIT STAYS.
As stays vary so very much in size, according to the make of the child,
it would be difficult to form a receipt, as they should fit well, and
the styles of knitters vary so much. It is better to cut, in paper,
the exact shape of the stay, and then knit your stay to match it, by
constantly measuring. Set on sufficient stitches on your pin to form
the depth of the end of the stay, and knit several plain rows until the
rise of the shoulder.
Add a stitch at the beginning of every rib until it is sufficiently
raised or hollowed, to form the beginning of the shoulder-strap,
then begin to hollow for the arm-hole, decreasing one stitch at the
beginning of one row, and the end of the next, and so on, until the
hole is deep enough, when commence increasing in the same proportion,
to form the rise inside the arm-hole.
The body in front should be slightly hollowed towards the middle, and
the remainder half of the body finished in the same manner, therefore,
it is advisable to set down every widening and narrowing as you do it,
in order that the one half may exactly correspond with the other.
These bodies generally have tape shoulder straps, but knit ones can
easily be attached, by picking up six stitches on the shoulder,
knitting a narrow strip.
They are generally straight at the bottom, and are usually knit of
cotton, and are very elastic.
SILK WATCH GUARD.
Set on your pin seven or nine stitches, or even more if the silk is
very fine.
Knit in common knitting a yard and a half in length.
Some thread their silk with beads, either black or gold, and introduce
them in the knitting to form the initials or name of the wearer, or
to make fanciful devices; others knit it entirely with beads of one
or more colours, introducing one bead at every stitch, but the plain
knitting is the neatest and handsomest of the three kinds, the other
two being too gay for daily wear.
CHECKED NAPKIN RINGS.
Choose two colours, say green and gold, set on your pin with the green
wool twenty-four stitches and knit one plain row, and then knit as
follows:—
1st Row. Knit plain four stitches, alternately of each colour,
to the end of the row.
2nd Row. Turn-stitch (four stitches alternately of each colour)
to the end of the row, observing to keep the gold colour
over the gold, and green over the green
.
3rd Row. Plain knit, as in the first row.
4th Row. Turn-stitch, as in the second row.
Repeat these four rows.
The next eight rows are knit exactly the same way, excepting that the
colours are arranged so that the green is placed over the gold, and the
gold over the green.
Continue alternately changing the situation of the colours every eight
rows, until about one and a half nail in length is knit, when fasten
off, line with buckram or wire, and silk, putting a bow at the seam
where the ends are sewn together, and it is completed. Some knit these
in the two coloured rib and two coloured chain-stitch.
SOFA SHAWL.
These are very expensive, but useful for invalids, on account of their
warmth and lightness.
Set on five or six hundred stitches and knit a square of double
knitting, or imitation double knitting, either with or without a
border, if the latter is preferred, the one which is explained with
corners is the handsomest, unless fringe is also required, when one of
the fringe borders may be added at once.
A BOSOM FRIEND.
Set on your pin seventy stitches, and knit in imitation knitting for
about 100 rows, when knit twenty-five stitches of the next row, after
which take another pin and fasten off the next twenty stitches, then
knit the last twenty-five stitches on another pin.
Continue knitting the twenty-five stitches on one pin in the same
stitch, fastening off one stitch at every end and beginning of each
row, next to the middle, which forms the hollowing round the neck.
When the stitches are reduced to four, fasten off.
Do the same with the other pin containing twenty-five stitches, and
fasten off.
Sew pieces of white ribbon to the corners, to hang it by round the neck.
Some persons do not hollow out bosom friends, but knit them square or
oblong.
BRACES FOR GENTLEMEN.
These may be knit in wool, cotton, or even silk. The following receipt
is for cotton braces (the wool would require fewer stitches, and the
silk more than the cotton).
The shape of a brace is wide in the middle, with two narrow ends.
For the first narrow end, set on twenty-four stitches, and knit two
nails in length, in imitation of double knitting, or in huckaback
stitch. Widen to forty-eight stitches, and knit a length of nine nails.
Narrow at each end, till reduced to thirty stitches, when put half
the loops on one pin and half on another; continue knitting each end
separately until three nails long, when fasten off and the one brace
is completed. These two last ends should be knit with a button-hole in
each, which is easily done by again halving the stitches on two pins,
and knitting them separately a few rows (say eight or twelve), and
afterwards joining them together on one pin again.
THE SPIRAL BOA, OR RUFF.
Set on any quantity of stitches to form an even number of threes, say
thirty-six or forty-eight, and knit a plain row in one coloured wool.
Fasten on the other colour, and knit three stitches alternately with
each colour.
Next row, turn-stitch back again, knitting each colour over
its own shade.
Continue knitting one row plain, and turn-stitch back again,
observing each plain row to alter the arrangement of the
colours one stitch, which gives the shades a spiral direction.
For a clearer explanation, observe as follows:—
1st Row. Knit plain three grey and three scarlet stitches,
alternately to the end of the row.
2nd Row. Turn-stitch back, keeping the colours over their
own shades.
3rd Row. Knit two grey stitches, then three scarlet and
three grey, alternately, to the end of the row, leaving
one grey at the end.
4th Row. Knit the colours over their shade in the last row
in turn-stitch.
5th Row. Knit one grey stitch, then three scarlet and three
grey, alternately, ending with two grey at the end.
6th Row. Turn-stitch back again.
7th Row. Knit three scarlet and three grey, alternately to
the end.
8th Row. Turn-stitch back again.
9th Row. Knit two scarlet, and three grey, and three scarlet
alternately, leaving one scarlet at the end.
10th Row. Turn-stitch back again.
11th Row. Knit one scarlet, and three grey, and three
scarlet alternately, leaving two scarlet at the end.
12th Row. Knit three grey and three scarlet, alternately
and so on. Observe that you keep your wool (which is
constantly passed across) always at the wrong side of
the knitting, or that side which does not resemble the
stitch of a knit stocking. Take care not to pull the
wool tight when passing it across.
When a sufficient length is knit, fasten off and sew up, and fill with
wadding or wool, which is pushed down with a stick or long knitting
pin, and then sewn up.
Three or more colours may be used, but it is rather troublesome to
prevent the wools from entangling, on account of their crossing each
other so frequently.
SWISS CAP.
This is a kind of woollen tie or frill, to keep the head and ears warm
when in an open carriage, and is put on over the border of the bonnet
cap, and ties under the chin.
Its length is about six nails and a half, and the depth when double,
one nail and a half.
The colours generally chosen are white, blue, and scarlet.
Choose two very thick wooden pins, also some very fine lamb’s wool, and
some thick sewing silk of the same colour.
Set on about sixty stitches or more (according to the length desired)
on one pin with silk, and knit a plain row, then knit another plain row
with wool, putting it three times round the needle every stitch instead
of once.
Next row, knit exactly the same.
Next row, knit plain, passing the wool but once round the pin as usual.
Repeat the three rows twice more, and then finish off by knitting a
plain row of silk.
Double the piece of knitting in half its depth, so as to form a kind of
frill, and run in a ribbon along the third row of long stitches in and
out through both the folds or frills, to keep them in place, which also
serves as strings to keep the cap on the head by tying under the chin.
A LIGHT SCARF.
Set on 100 stitches, and knit either in one or two colours, seven nails
of raised French stitch, or honeycomb-stitch, after which, knit a row
plain, putting the wool six times round the pin at every stitch.
Next row, knit plain, taking care to keep the long stitches even.
Knit one row of honeycomb pattern.
Knit another plain row.
Repeat the row of long stitches, by again putting the wool six
times round the pin.
Again the plain row, as also the row of honeycomb pattern,
and the other plain row.
Continue this till the scarf is long enough to allow of your ending as
you began, with seven nails of fancy stitch. A fringe should be added.
These scarfs are often made with the long stitches white, and all the
rest coloured, and look very handsome.
AN IMPROVED SOCK.
Use coarse lamb’s wool and middle sized pins; cast on
seventeen stitches of coloured wool, this makes the
first row in reckoning.
At the end of the second row, make a stitch, which gives
a better form to the heel than setting on eighteen at
first.
At the end of the third row, add a stitch.
Add a stitch at the end of the fifth, seventh, ninth,
eleventh, &c., until you have twenty-five loops on the pin.
Then with a third pin knit ten stitches only.
Continue knitting backwards and forwards the ten stitches
only, until you have knit twenty rows.[3]
At the end of the twenty-first row, make fifteen stitches,
so as to have twenty-five stitches again on the pin, and
to make it correspond with the other side.
Finish this side of the shoe with as many rows as you knit
on the opposite side, decreasing every other row by
knitting the two first stitches together at the toe,
until there are but seventeen left on the pin, and
fasten off.
All this has been knit of red wool.
Then continue with the white wool for twenty-four rows,
which will complete the sock, adding at the end of the
two first sixth and seventh rows, one to enlarge the boot.
Sew up the shoe to the sock at the instep, and draw up the
toe and sew it round the heel and up the leg. A bow may
be added, if required, also leather soles.
[3] At the end of this twenty rows, take up ten stitches, and with
white wool knit fourteen rows. Then take on to this middle pin, which
has the white even upon it, nine stitches from each side (namely, from
the top of the heel) of the red shoe, and knit two rows with coloured
wool for the strap.
FLOWER STAND COVERS.
Take a tin can or jar, of the proper size for the flowers to be placed
in, and make the knit cover as follows:—
Choose two middle sized steel pins, and rather fine wool of two
colours, and begin as follows:—
Set on as many stitches as will measure to the depth of the
flower stand, and knit six rows of one colour, letting
the alternate rows be plain, and turn-stitch so as to
make one side appear like knit stockings on the right
side. The next six rows knit of the other colour, and
altering the alternate rows of plain and turn-stitch, so
as to throw the stocking-stitch inside. Continue thus
ribbing the piece of work until you have knit sufficient
to go round the base, when fasten off and sew up. Add a
fringe at the top, and a circular piece of wire inside,
both at top and bottom, is sometimes put to keep it in
shape; though the jar generally is sufficient in itself
when put inside. A leather or cloth bottom may be added.
KNIT PEN WIPER.
Set on your pin thirty stitches of black wool, and knit
eight rows backwards and forwards for the border. The
middle part is next begun in the embossed hexagon-stitch
of red, or any other colour, still observing to continue
the border, by knitting four plain stitches at the
beginning and ending of each pin of the black wool.
End by knitting the eight plain rows of black wool as
before, to complete the first enclosed square of the pen
wiper, do not fasten off, but begin knitting another
piece exactly to match the first, which when finished
completes the pen wiper. Double it like a book and sew a
bit of ribbon down the inside, under which may be passed
bits of silk or rag to wipe the pens upon.
CHAPTER XII.
STRAW PLATTING.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
The precise period when the Dunstable bonnets, made of straw plat, were
invented, is unknown, but is supposed to be probably a century and a
half old.
The straw platting districts now, include Bedfordshire,
Buckinghamshire, Hertfordshire, and Essex. In many other counties the
platting is partially followed, and it may be well adopted in other
districts for the supply of the neighbourhood.
There are markets for the sale of the large bundles of long straw, both
rough and properly stripped; also the short straws, the straw plats,
and the bonnets throughout the straw plat districts. The best bonnet
market is at St. Alban’s, but there are others at Luton, Dunstable, and
Braintree. These markets are held only in the morning, from about eight
to ten o’clock, when the plat buyers always attend.
Experiments on the different straws of corn and grass, and on the
precise times when they should be cut, whether before or at the time
when the grass and corn are ripe, might lead to some discoveries which
would add to the durability and beauty of the bonnets.
There are few manufactories in the kingdom in which so little capital
is wanted, or the knowledge of the art so soon acquired as in that of
straw platting; it is, therefore, particularly suitable for school
children, from six years old and upwards, as also for the sons of
cottagers to employ their spare moments.
The expense of a _perfect_ apparatus for bleaching, rolling, pressing
upon, &c., amounts to about three guineas, which will employ any number
of persons from one to one hundred; but, by contriving with materials
at hand, a guinea alone would almost provide those articles not to be
procured at home.
The following are the articles required for platting, and making up the
plats into articles for sale:—
£. _s._ _d._
Box for bleaching the straw and bonnets 0 18 0
Mill for rolling and glazing the plat 0 18 0
Bonnet stand for ironing and shaping the bonnet upon 0 11 0
Box iron with two or three heaters 0 4 6
Tin kettle for dyeing 0 5 0
Tailor’s measure 0 0 6
Earthenware jar for the brimstone 0 0 4
Cloths for ironing 0 0 6
Large iron basin tinned 0 1 6
Straw splitting machines, two at 4½_d._ 0 0 9
Stone brimstone, bone-dust, needles, &c., about 0 3 0
£. 3 3 0
THE BLEACHING, OR FUMIGATION BOX.
PLATE 24. FIG. 50.
If required to be large enough to hold several bonnets, two stories
high and two rows in width, it should be made about three feet long,
two feet wide, and two feet deep.
The earthen jar is put in the middle of it, in which the brimstone
is put and set fire to when articles are to be bleached, as there is
danger of some of the straw falling into the jar and catching fire;
it is advisable to have four stout legs or wires about a foot high,
fastened round the jar in the centre of the box, and, by carrying a
wire round from peg to peg at the top, and the second a little lower,
a kind of double railing would be formed round the jar as a protection
to the straw (see Fig. 50). The box should be made to shut down very
close, for which purpose the lid should have a ledge to fall over the
sides of the box, something similar to the lid of a band-box.
MILL FOR ROLLING THE PLAT.
PLATE 24. FIG. 49.
This is difficult to procure well made, and is essential to give the
gloss and finish to the straw plat. It should be made of the strongest
oak or box-wood, and of the following size, or larger:—
Inches
The upright sides, from A to B 15½
Ditto sloped down to (as from C to D) 13½
Width of these sides, from E to F 1½
Depth, or thickness, from F to G 3½
The two bars of wood, H and T, in width and depth, to be 3½
Distance between H and T 11
Circumference of each wheel, K L 7
Length of screw, not including handle 4½
Length of handle 3½
Depth of bar across, R ½
Length of handle, L 3
Height of upright, M 5½
Length of upper handle, O 5
The use of the screw is to press the upper wheel nearer upon the lower
one, if wanted, as the thickness of the various plats vary materially,
and what will press one kind, will not be close enough to do another
properly.
The plat being put in at one end, is worked through between the wheel,
till the whole is drawn through. The wheels should always be as near
together as will just admit the straw without spoiling, as the greater
the pressure the finer the gloss. It is a question whether glass
rollers would not produce a still higher finish. The holes are made
entirely through the wood at the end, A B, to admit of screws, by
which the whole mill is fastened to the side of some chest, or press,
or door. Care should be taken to place it at the proper height from
the floor, for convenience. From three feet and a half to four feet
and a half is about the best distance. It should also be placed in a
situation where the handle may have free play when turned.
THE BONNET STAND.
PLATE 24. FIG. 48.
This is made of strong deal or oak, and is formed at one end smaller
and differently to the other. The one end is circular, and so formed
as to fit into the crown of a bonnet or hat; the other end is shaped
like the poke, or front. This wood is mounted on a kind of stand, at
a convenient height, and is used for ironing the bonnets upon, after
being wet with the stiffening.
BOX IRON.
PLATE 24. FIG. 52.
This is made much in the usual way, excepting that it should be
particularly heavy, and have a large handle to enable the person, while
ironing, to have a firm grasp.
THE TIN DYEING KETTLE.
This should be made as long as the longest bundle of straw, as also
deep and narrow. To have a lid to fit tightly on, and a long handle to
carry it about with greater ease. The following dimensions are very
suitable:—
Inches
Length 17
Width 5
Depth 6
The earthenware jar should be like a little painter’s pot.
The tailors’ measure is used for measuring round a person’s head, to
work the crown of the bonnet by.
The ironing cloth is merely to lay between the iron and the bonnet; it
might be of calico, or any other common material.
THE STRAW SPLITTER.
This is a useful little machine, for dividing or splitting the straws,
and may be procured with almost any number of wires or divisions, from
two up to seven or eight. The machine, which is nothing but crossed
wires or divisions in iron, is set into a wooden handle, through which
the straw is pressed, and thus divided into an equal number of splints
or split straws. These machines cost from 2_d._ to 8_d._ each.
ON PREPARING STRAW.
In selecting the straw, great care should be taken as to the sort and
the colour. Rye straw is considered the best for platting, but is more
difficult to get than wheat, which is preferable to any other sort of
common straw. As it should be picked carefully, it is advisable to
go to the barn itself, or to send some experienced person thither,
previous to the straw being thrashed. Soft good coloured straws should
be chosen, as free from blight and spots as possible. The ears should
be cut off with scissors (not pulled off), and then the straw is tied
in bundles and removed. It is then prepared as follows:—
Cut off at the joint and pull off the outer or loose covering, which
process is called shocking.
Each straw will generally cut into three lengths of different
thicknesses and sizes. These lengths should be carefully sorted into
bundles, taking care to put together not only those of the same
thickness, but those also of the same length.
ON BLEACHING STRAW.
Take six quarts of water, and make a strong lather of soap; put in
half an ounce of pearl ash, and half an ounce of sugar of lead, and
make it quite hot. Wash the straws well in it, (keeping it still tied
up in little bundles) after which, place the bundles in the fumigating
box, which should be air tight, and shut it down close, after having
previously lighted the stone brimstone, which should be broken into
small pieces in the jar.
Observe carefully, when setting the bundles round the box, that they
stand firmly, so as not to fall upon the lighted brimstone and catch
fire.
These bundles should not be tied very tightly, but sufficiently loose
to stand out a little, as in Fig. 51, Plate 24, to allow of the steam
gaining free access to them.
They should remain shut up for twelve or eighteen hours, after which,
the bundles should be opened one at a time, cleaned with a cloth, and
then tied up again, ready for platting.
ON DYEING STRAW BLACK.
One pound of logwood chips,
Four quarts of water,
A piece of copperas the size of a walnut,
One pennyworth of verdigris.
Let the logwood remain in the water three hours, then boil it half an
hour over a slow fire, put in the articles, whether straw, silk, or any
thing else, let it boil half an hour, then take out the chips, and the
straw, add the copperas and the verdigris, previously dissolved over a
slow fire, then put in the straw again, boil it half an hour, let it
stand to cool three hours, wash the straw in cold water, and dry it in
the air, without putting it in the sun.
To stiffen it, steep gum arabic in small beer, wet the straw with it,
and dry it as before.
ANOTHER BLACK DYE.
Three quarts of water,
Three quarts of urine,
Three quarters of a pound of logwood,
Half a pound of alum,
Quarter of a pound of copperas,
Three or four nut galls.
Boil the water, urine, logwood, alum, and nut galls together a quarter
of an hour, then add the copperas and boil the whole half an hour,
afterwards put in the straw, and let it boil six hours. Let the straw
remain in the dye till quite cold, then take it out, spread it on a
tray or board to dry in the air, turn it every day for a fortnight,
then rub each straw with an old linen duster, tie the straw in bundles,
and keep it in a damp place. It should be used up quickly, or else it
will decay, without being stiffened.
DIRECTIONS FOR PLATTING.
Each platter should have a separate bundle of straws, and great care
taken that the straws in the bundle are exactly alike, unblemished, and
equal in quality, as no good platter would work a tough straw with a
pliant one. These bundles should have a piece of paper or calico round
them to keep them clean, and they are generally kept by school children
under the arm to prevent their being mixed with a fellow platter’s
straws.
Observe as follows:—
1st. Platters should use the second finger and thumb,
instead of the forefinger, as this last is very useful
in assisting to turn the splints, and thus facilitates
the work.
2nd. The straws while being platted should be held with
the long ends turned up above the hand, and not below
towards the waist; this arrangement keeps the straws
cleaner and they are less liable to be bent or broken.
3rd. The straws should be renewed before used too near
the end, as the joining is more firm; also avoid if
possible, renewing two straws at the same time as the
plat will be weakened.
4th. Avoid wetting the straws unless absolutely necessary
while platting, as water tends much to diminish the
glossy appearance afterwards. In working double splints,
there should be just sufficient moisture to make them
stick together while being worked.
5th. Each platter should have a piece of board, about a
quarter or half a yard long, and three or four inches
wide, on which should be wound the plat worked, taking
care to cut off the ends of the straw as the plat is
worked along, previous to winding it on the roller, to
keep it in nice order. These boards should be rounded
at the sides, to keep the plat from cracking. Some use
rollers, and this last is perhaps the better plan. The
circumference of the rollers should be of some settled
size, say half a yard, so as to enable the platter
easily to ascertain by counting the turns of the plat
wound round it, how many yards have been completed.
6th. When the number of yards required are finished,
the plat is passed through a roller, as often as is
necessary, till well flattened and glazed, when it is
folded like a coil of ropes in an oblong shape, ready
for making up. The coils should be kept perfectly dry
and free from dust, until a sufficient number is made
for use.
PLATS.
There are numerous kinds of plats of which the names vary so much in
the different countries that it is needless to call them by their
names, excepting those universally known by one term; they will
therefore be simply distinguished by the number of straws employed in
making them.
Plats are sometimes made with whole straws; sometimes with half straws;
sometimes with a third or fourth or even seventh parts of straws,
according to the quality required.
Another plat is made with double straws; that is laying two splints or
part of a straw together with the polished parts outside.
Plats of whole coarse straws are applicable to mats, basket, matting,
&c.
Plats with finer whole straws; are used for school children, servant’s,
or ladies’ country bonnets, and are commonly called Dunstable.
The split single, or split double, are made of every quality and
number, and vary in price, according to the labour.
Some bonnets are made of paper, of grass, of Tuscan plat, and even of
rushes; also of whalebone, of chip, &c.
Plats made of coloured straw may be platted in various patterns, by
varying the number or position of the one colour with the other.
The following names of plats, together with their prices per score, are
those in general use.
_s._ _d._
Whole Dunstable 0 6
Fine whole Dunstable 2 3
Patent Dunstable 2 6
Luton Dunstable 1 4
Devonshire plat of seven or eight 0 0
Bedford Leghorn 4 0
---------------------------------------------------------
1 2
Mixture plats to
2 0
---------------------------------------------------------
Tuscan ends 3 0
Rustic plats 0 6
Fine seven plats 0 0
Back-bone straw 0 0
Double seven 0 0
The eleven straw 0 0
The double eleven 0 0
The lustre, or shining, of seventeen straws 0 0
The wave of twenty-two
(the straws appear as if worked one way) 0 0
The diamond of twenty-three straws 0 0
PLAT OF THREE.
Double one straw in two, letting the ends be unequal. Lay a second
straw upright, between the two ends of the first; thus forming three
ends, which must be held with the points upright, between the finger
and thumb of the left hand. Put the right hand straw over the middle
straw, flatten it with the finger and thumb.
Put the left hand straw over the middle, also flatten it.
Continue thus all the way along, remembering when
joining on a new straw, to let the ends all lie on the
outer side.
Observe, in platting, that the straw be always entirely
folded over, as you would in platting paper, and the
edges kept even.
This may be platted with whole straws, or split ones.
ANOTHER PLAT OF THREE.
This is done with very fine split straws, and is similarly platted with
the one above, excepting that the straw is not flattened on folding in
the patterns, but simply a little twisted, so as to keep the polished
edge uppermost. This is called pearl plat, and is used by bonnet makers
to form ornamental bonnets.
PLAT OF FOUR.
Double two straws, so that all the ends shall be of unequal lengths,
and plat as follows:—
Put the right hand straw, over one, and under one;
Put the left hand straw, under one;
Again, the right hand straw over one, and under one,
and so on.
ANGULAR PLAT OF FOUR.
This is sometimes called the corner plat,
Put the right hand straw, over one, and under one;
Again, put the right hand straw, over two, and under the
last straw, making it the left hand, or outside straw.
Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one.
Again, put the left hand straw, over two, and under the last
straw, making it the right hand straw.
PLAT OF FIVE.
Double two straws, so that the ends shall be of unequal lengths, and
add a fifth straw between the left hand, first and second.
Put the right hand straw, over one, and under one;
Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one;
Repeat this all along.
PLAT OF SIX.
Double three straws unequally, and begin.
Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two; Put the
left hand straw, over one, and under one.
PLAT OF SIX.
Double three straws unequally, making six ends to plat with;
Put the right hand first straw, over one, and under one;
Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one;
Repeat this.
PLAT OF SEVEN.
Double your straws;
Put the right hand first straw, over one, under one, and
over one;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, and over one.
ANOTHER PLAT OF SEVEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two;
Put the left hand straw, over one, and under two;
Repeat this all along.
ANOTHER PLAT OF SEVEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, and over one.
Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, and over one.
Repeat this.
PLAT OF EIGHT.
Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two;
Put the left hand straw, over two, and under two;
Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF EIGHT.
Put the right hand straw, over one, and under three;
Put the left hand straw, over one, and under two;
Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF EIGHT.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, and over two;
Put the left hand straw, under one, and over two;
Repeat this.
PLAT OF NINE.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over one;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over one;
Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF NINE.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and
under one;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and
under one;
Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF NINE.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, and over two;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, and over two;
Repeat this.
PLAT OF TEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over one;
Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF TEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and
under two;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and
under one;
Repeat this.
PLAT OF ELEVEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
under one, and over one;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
under one, and over one;
Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF ELEVEN.
Put the right hand straw, over three, under three;
Put the left hand straw, over three, and under one;
Continue thus all along.
ANOTHER PLAT OF ELEVEN.
Put the right hand straw, over two, under two, and over two;
Put the left hand straw, over two, and under one;
Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF ELEVEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
Continue this.
PLAT OF TWELVE.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, over two, and
under one;
Continue this.
PLAT OF THIRTEEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two, over two;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, over two, and
under one.
ANOTHER PLAT OF THIRTEEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over three,
and under one;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over three,
and under one;
Repeat this.
ANOTHER PLAT OF THIRTEEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
under one, and over one;
Put the left hand straw over one, under one, over one, under
one, over one, under one, and over one.
Repeat the same.
PLAT OF FOURTEEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, over two,
under two, and over one;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over two.
PLAT OF FIFTEEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over two.
ANOTHER PLAT OF FIFTEEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
under one, over one, under one, and over one;
Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one,
under one, over one, under one, and over one.
PLAT OF SIXTEEN.
Put the right hand straw, over one, under three, over three,
and under one;
Put the left hand straw, over two, under three, and over
three;
Continue this.
HOLLOW SPIRAL STRAW WORK.
This is used for ornamented bonnets, and when made with a great many
straws forms a basket, into which may be put fruit, and other small
light things.
Take any number of uneven straws, from five upwards, to fifteen or
twenty-one.
If five are taken, tie them securely together in a knot, and spread out
the straws, laying a pencil or other round thing upright upon the knot,
and begin working, making each straw as it is folded over, lie across
in a horizontal position.
Lay one straw, across over two straws,
Miss the next straw,
Lay the next again across over two straws,
Again miss the next straw,
Repeat this continually until sufficient is made, and fasten
off.
THE TUSCAN HAT, COMMONLY CALLED LEGHORN BONNETS.
The manufacture of straw bonnets is a considerable employment in
Tuscany. The platting is chiefly carried on in the neighbourhood of
Florence, Pisa, and Sienna.
The straws used in working those flats, which is the term for large
flat circular plats, is grown in barren and mountainous districts,
and is produced from a kind of wheat, said to be like cape wheat, of
which the grain is very small. This straw, though slender, has much
consistency, and the upper part of the stalk being hollow is easily
dried. It is pulled out of the earth before the grain begins to form.
After being freed from the soil that adheres to the root, it is formed
into small sheaves for winnowing. The part above the last joint of the
stem is then plucked off, the ear remaining attached to it, this being
done, it is bleached alternately by the dew and the sun-shine; rain is
very injurious and destroys much of its proper colour. The lower parts
of the straw are treated in the same manner, and employed in forming
flats of an inferior quality. The upper parts, torn off just to the
knot, are sorted according to their degrees of fineness. This stapling
is made with much care, and usually affords straw of three different
prices. A quantity of straw worthbut 4½ _d._ will, after undergoing
this process, be sold for 4_s._ 7_d._
The tress is formed sometimes of seven or nine straws, but generally
of thirteen. For the latter number, tie them together at one end; then
divide them, placing six straws on the left side, and seven on the
right. The seventh or outermost on the right, is to be turned down
by the finger and thumb of the right hand, and brought up under two
straws, over two, and under two, thus seven straws will be placed on
the left hand; then the finger and thumb of the left hand is to turn
the seventh or outermost straw on the left side, and bring it up under
two straws, over two, and under two, and seven straws will again be
on the right hand, and so on alternately doubling and platting the
outermost seventh straw from side to side until it becomes too short
to cross over; then take another straw and put it under the short
end at the point of the angle, and by another straw coming over and
under the joined one from both sides of the angle, in the operation of
platting, it will become fastened; the short ends always being left out
underneath the plat. Continue until a piece of about twenty yards or
more, is completed. As fast as it is worked, it is rolled on a cylinder
of wood: when it is finished, the projecting ends and ears are cut off,
it is then passed with force between the hand and a piece of wood, cut
with a sharp edge to press and polish it. The tresses, when prepared,
are used so that a complete hat shall be made of one piece; they are
sewed together with raw silk; the diameter the of various kinds of hat
is in general the same; the only difference being in the degree of
fineness, and consequently the number of turns which the plat has to
make, varies.
These hats have from twenty to eighty such turns, the number regulating
the price from 9s. to £20.
The Tuscan plat, made from Italian straw, and Tuscan bonnets, have
since become a considerable manufacture in this country.
ENGLISH IMITATION LEGHORN FLAT.
A kind of grass has been discovered in America, England, and in
Ireland, which, upon repeated trials, has been found to answer as well,
and is broke equally fine as the Tuscan straw. It is called the crested
dog’s tail, and grows on barren poor soils. Its flower stalks are so
remarkably harsh and tough that cattle will not touch them, and they
remain all the winter in the fields useless. They are called, in Irish,
trawnyeens; hence the Irish saying, “When a thing is useless, it is not
worth a trawnyeen.” This has been dried and platted, and made up by the
Irish, and it said likely to become a productive manufacture.
ARTICLES MADE UP OF STRAW PLAT.
Bonnets of all descriptions and sizes.
Boy’s straw hats.
Boy’s straw caps.
Baskets and reticules.
Mats.
Basses.
Matting.
BONNETS.
In making these up, begin by preparing the plat for the crown by
pulling out the edge, as the outer circle must be larger than the
inner one. Sew the plat, making long stitches on the wrong side, and
laying one plat about half or more under the preceding one. No good
directions for bonnet-making can be given in writing, it is therefore
recommended to the inexperienced to take a lesson from a bonnet maker,
or to pick an old one to pieces, as a kind of guide. When made up to
shape or pattern, the bonnet, if it requires it, is bleached in the
sulphur-box, after which, when quite dry, it is sponged all over,
inside and outside, with the stiffening prepared according to the
receipt mentioned below; when dry, another wash of stiffening is put
on, and then, when quite dry, spread a wet piece of jaconet muslin
over the bonnet, and press it with the box iron upon the bonnet block
until it is quite in proper shape. This pressing is very hard work, and
requires much strength and weight. The bonnet is then wired and papered.
RECEIPTS FOR STIFFENING.
The best stiffening is that made of buffalo’s hide or vellum, which may
be procured in London and Liverpool, cut in shreds, and sold at 8_d._ a
pound. Others use bone-dust, ivory shavings, also isinglass for best,
and white glue for common bonnets.
VELLUM STIFFENING.
Boil a quarter of a pound of vellum shavings in two quarts of soft
water for six or seven hours, filling it up occasionally until quite
glutinous, then let it stand a few minutes to settle, pour it out into
a basin, and it will become a thick jelly. A second two quarts of
water may be added to the sediment left in the pot, and after a second
boiling, will form a second quantity of almost as strong a jelly.
When used, melt up a quart of the jelly, and add a sufficient quantity
of oxalic acid to make it white in the degree desired, a table spoonful
to a quart is a very good average measure for good bonnets, more is
required for the very best, and less for servants and school girls, &c.
This acid, if too strong, turns the straws a pink colour.
Observe, that oxalic acid is a most dangerous poison, and should be
kept locked up in a safe place.
BONE-DUST STIFFENING.
Put half a pint of bone-dust to half a pint of water, and boil it eight
hours; then strain it through a thick earn strainer into a basin, let
it stand about five minutes, and pour it very carefully into another
vessel, as there will be a sediment at the bottom. Put the stiffening
on the straw articles with a clean brush, making them quite wet. Hold
the bonnets before the fire a few minutes, pulling them into shape, and
afterwards hang them to dry for six hours, then with a sponge damp them
with warm water, and spread over them a fine cloth or handkerchief, and
press them well with a box iron. Take off the cloth, gloss the bonnets,
then wire and paper the crown.
N.B. The white bonnets should have a little sugar of lead put in the
stiffening, and they should be steamed in the brimstone a second time,
after being made up, previous to being stiffened.
ON CLEANING BONNETS.
Take out the wires, and wash the bonnet with common brown soap and
water. Bleach them with stone brimstone; a bit the size of a walnut is
sufficient for twelve bonnets, dry, and mend them; if required, stiffen
them according to the receipt and press them.
ON TURNING BONNETS.
The bonnet is picked to pieces, and the plat turned, so that which was
inside is then outwards, the bonnet should be cleaned well before being
unpicked.
HATS.
Men’s and boy’s hats are easily made of straw, and the brims may be
narrow or broad, at pleasure; baby’s straw hats are generally looped up
with a plat loop.
Boy’s caps may be made of straw also, and are very serviceable.
MATS.
These are made of plats also, and may be made round or oblong for the
table, as also for door mats. The latter requires a very wide plat.
Very pretty mats may be made of fine straws or rushes, about twenty
taken in the hand at once, and connected together in a similar manner
as the straw work of a bee-hive, either with very fine split osiers,
which are passed through the straws easily when a hole is bored through
with a kind of packing needle threaded with twine; braid answers very
well indeed. The stitches should be very regular, and if for a circle
or oval, observe to let the stitches radiate from the centre. Baskets
look very pretty when made in this way, also church basses, which also
are made of straw plats, and sewed over sackcloth after it is made to
the shape of a cushion, and properly filled with bits of straw, bran,
or flock, &c.
BOBBIN MAKING.
PLATE 24. FIG. 53, 54, 55.
This is done on a cushion, and with bobbin handles similar to those
used by lace makers; Fig. 54, a cushion stuffed with wool is firmer
than one of feathers, it is rather heavier, but that is not an
objection. The cost of the bobbin handles is four-pence each, and there
are nine required. It is preferable to have the handles made with two
_necks_, any turner accustomed to make lace bobbins will know what is
meant.
The best cotton for use is knitting cotton, and for very broad bobbin,
a double thread of middling fineness is preferable to a single coarse
one. It is done as follows:—
Let the nine threads be tied together, and fastened upon the top of the
cushion with a stout pin; Fig. 53, then separate them so that five fall
on one side, and four on the other. Fig. 55.
The object is to pass No. 9 _over_ Nos. 7 and 8, and under Nos. 5 and
6; therefore, take up the two latter bobbins in the right hand, No. 5
between the thumb and first finger, and No. 6 between the first and
second fingers; the thumb and first finger may, notwithstanding, grasp
No. 9, and throw it over Nos. 7 and 8 to the left hand side of the
cushion, next to No. 4. Lay Nos. 5 and 6 in the places from which they
were raised, and perform the same process described with the left hand,
taking up Nos. 9 and 4, and passing No. 1 across to the right hand.
The bobbin, as it is made, may be wound several times round a card at
the top of the cushion, and then passed under a large pin. Fasten on
a single thread, by tying the two ends together, and looping it round
a pin stuck just above where you are at work, it is thus perfectly
strong, and a knot does not occur in the bobbin.
The outer thread to the left hand, over two, and under two; the same
with the right hand.
INDEX.
Page
ANGULAR STITCH, see _Stitches in Needlework_
APRONS, 76
—— Clear Muslin, 77
—— Common for Ladies, 78
—— Working, ib.
—— Cooking, 79
—— Dress, 76
—— Evening, 78
—— Frilled, 77
—— Gentleman’s Working, 79
—— Grocers’, ib.
—— Hollowed at the bottom, 77
—— Muslin, ib.
—— Nursery, 17
—— Pantry, 79, 179
—— Silk, 77
—— Pockets, 78
—— with Bibs, ib.
—— with Shoulder-straps, 79
ARTICLES USED IN THE LAUNDRY, see _Washing_
ARTICLES USED IN THE WASH-HOUSE, see _Washing_
BABY LINEN, 16
—— —— General Observations on, 17
—— —— Articles necessary for Wardrobe, 16
—— —— —— for lending the Poor, 17
—— —— Band, 28
—— —— Basket for Nursery, 44
—— —— Bassinette Cover, 41
—— —— Bib, 38
—— Bodies, full, for Robes, 33
—— —— Plain, 34
—— —— Fancy, ib.
—— Bottle, Leather suck of, 45
—— Caps, material for, 17
—— —— Day, 20
—— —— Flannel, 19
—— —— Foundling, 18
—— —— Full French, 21
—— —— French, ib.
—— —— Horse-shoe, ib.
—— with Runners, 19
—— Cloak, Flannel, 38,
—— —— Silk or Merino, 38
—— Cockades, 22
—— Cot, Hanging, 43
—— —— Travelling, ib.
—— Cradle and Cover, 42
—— Crib and Cover, ib.
—— Crib, or Cradle Furniture, 44
—— Chair for Day, 45
—— —— for Travelling, Night, 46
—— Frocks and Robes, 32
—— Gowns, First Flannel, 25
—— —— Another, 26
—— —— for the Poor, ib.
—— —— Second size Night-Flannel, 27
—— —— First size Day Flannel, ib.
—— —— Another, 28
—— —— First Calico Night Gown, 29
—— —— Another, 30
—— Another, ib.
—— Hood, for Boy or Girl, 40
—— Napkins, 29
—— —— Another sort, ib.
—— Pelisse, 38
—— —— Long, 39
—— —— Summer, 40
—— Petticoats, 32
—— Pilcher, 28
—— Pincushion, 45
—— Pinafores, 30
—— —— with Lappets, 31
—— —— Waste Not, ib.
—— —— Tidy, or Dress, ib.
—— Receiver, 37
—— Robes, 32
—— Rosettes, 22
—— Savers, 28
—— Shawl, 37
—— Shirts, First Open, 22
—— —— Close, or Second, 23
—— Sleeves, the Round, 35
—— —— the Common, ib.
—— —— the Triangular, 36
—— ——, Long, 37
—— Skirts, 33
BADGE, Clergyman’s, 149
—— School Girl’s, 214
BANDS, Clergyman’s, 150
—— Infant’s, 28
BAGS, Boot, 210
—— Brush and Comb, 209
—— Clothes
—— Family, 1
—— Night Gown, 208
—— Nursery, 210
—— Rag, 15
—— Travelling, 214
—— Work, 213
BASKETS, lending out for the Poor, 17
—— Nursery, 44
—— Work, how to line, 214
—— —— for Servants, 15
BATHING GOWN, 61
—— Cap, 68
BEDS, see _Upholstery_
BELTS, Men’s, 83
—— Hunter’s, ib.
—— Coachmen’s, ib.
BIASSING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
BINDING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
BLANKETS, see _Upholstery_
BLEACHING LIQUID, see _Receipts_
BLEACH Linen, Wool, &c., see _Receipts_
BLINDS, see _Upholstery_
BLUE CHECKS, 12
BOA, fur, 176
BOBBIN, making, 290
BOLSTERS, making, see _Upholstery_
BOOK Cases, 211
—— Covers, 211
BOMBAZINE, to clean, see _Receipts_
BONNETS, Children’s, 150
—— —— soft, for young, ib.
—— —— drawn up, 151
—— —— soft, for two years old, 151
—— —— soft, for three years old, 152
—— —— soft, for four or five years old, 153
—— —— soft, for eight years old, 151
—— —— soft, another sort, 153
—— Women’s, 158
—— —— Another shape, 159
—— Member of the Society of Friends, 160
—— For a Servant, ib.
—— School Girls, 161
BOX Clothes, see _House Linen_
—— Tin, 15
—— Work, 15
—— Carriage, 16
BRAIDING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
BRASS Ornaments, to preserve, see _Receipts_
BREAKFAST CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
BRIDAL FAVOURS, 170
BROAD HEMS, rules for cutting out, 14
BUGS, to destroy and prevent, see _Receipts_
BUSTLES, 83
BUTTON Holes, see _Stitches in Needlework_
BUTTONS, to make, 5
—— How to keep, 1
CALICO, on choosing, see _Purchasing Goods_
CALICO FURNITURE, to clean, see _Receipts_
CALÈCHE, or Woman’s large Hood, 162
CAMBRIC, on choosing, see _Purchasing Goods_
CANDLESTICK Case, 212
CAPS for Infants, see _Baby Linen_
—— for Boys, 153
—— Soft and Light, 154
—— —— Porringer, Cloth, ib.
—— —— for a Young Child, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— for an Infant Boy, ib.
—— for a Boy of six years old, 155
—— Another, ib.
—— for a Boy of seven or eight, 156
—— for an older Boy, ib.
—— Boy’s neat, 157
—— Gentleman’s Travelling, 156
—— Another, ib.
—— for a Lady or Gentleman, 157
—— Lady’s Riding, ib.
—— Workman’s Paper, ib.
CAPS of Muslin, or Thick Material, 61
—— Woman’s, Day or Night, 62
—— —— very neat Night, ib.
—— Young Servant’s Day, 63
—— Very neat shape, 64
—— Another, ib.
—— School Girl’s, 65
—— Favourite Lady’s Night, ib.
—— Neat Day or Night, 66
—— Another, ib.
—— An Old Woman’s, ib.
—— A Poor Woman’s Night, 67
—— A Neat Old Fashioned, ib.
—— Bathing, 68
CAPS of a thin material, as Net, &c., 124
—— Day, 124
—— for a Young Lady, 125
—— Morning, ib.
—— Undress, ib.
—— Dress Morning, 126
—— Plain, for an Elderly Lady, ib.
—— for a Member of the Society of Friends, ib.
—— for an Elderly Friend, 127
—— Bonnet, ib.
—— another Shape, ib.
—— Helmet Morning, ib.
—— Bonnet Cap, 128
—— another Shape, 129
—— Handkerchief Bonnet, 128
—— Bonnet Cap for a Child, 129
—— Widows, ib.
—— Velvet, 130
—— Silk, ib.
—— Half-Cap, or Lappets, 129
CAPES, see _Collars_
CAPETTE, 129
CARE of a Lady’s Wardrobe, 119
—— of a Gentleman’s Wardrobe, 121
CARD CASE, or Sachet, 212
CARPETS, see _Upholstery_
—— to Scour, see _Receipts_
CARRIAGE Cloths, see _House Linen_
CHAIN-STITCH, see _Stitches in Needlework_
—— Fancy, ib.
—— on Gathers, 9
CHAIR for Invalids, 216
—— and other Covers, see _Upholstery_
CHAMBER BOTTLE Cloths, see _House Linen_
CHAMBER BUCKET Cloths, see _House Linen_
CHEAT, Boy’s, 147
CHECKS, see _Purchasing Goods_
CHEESE CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
CHEMISETTE, 97
CHINA CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
CHINTZES, see _On Purchasing Goods_
—— to Clean, see _Receipts_
CHURCH SEATS and BASSES, see _Upholstery_
CLEAN, Curtains, see _Receipts_
—— Gold and Silver Lace, ib.
—— Gloves, ib.
—— Shoes, ib.
—— Sponges, ib.
—— Hair Brushes, ib.
—— Paint, ib.
—— Cotton, Woollen, Silk, ib.
CLEAR STARCHING, see _Washing_
CLERGYMAN’S Dress, 147
—— Cassock, ib.
—— Gown, ib.
—— Surplice, 149
—— Sash, or Badge, ib.
—— Scarf, or Hood, ib.
—— Bands, ib.
CLERK’S Gown, 150
CLOAKS, Infants’, 38
—— Womans’, 163
—— —— Short, or Mantelet, 164
—— —— Carriage, ib.
—— —— Garden, ib.
—— —— Servants, ib.
—— Old Woman’s, and Hood, ib.
—— School Girls’, 165
—— Boys’, ib.
CLOTH, see _On Purchasing Goods_
CLOTHES BAG, see _House Linen_
COCKADES, 22
COLLARETTE, 98
COLLARS, Gentlemens’, 145
—— Boys’, 146
—— General Rules for Cutting, 14
—— Women’s, 93
—— —— Round, 94
—— —— another, 99
—— for Infants, 94
—— Square, 95
—— Mourning, 99
—— for a Cloak, 94
—— to wear over a Shawl, ib.
—— a very Pretty one, 95
—— for Walking in, ib.
—— Morning, 95
—— for a Habit-Shirt, 97
—— Pointed, ib.
COMB BAG, 209
COMPLETING WORK, General Rules, 10
COOKING CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
CORONATION BRAID, 8
CORSETS, see _Stays_, 180
CORD, sewn on, 8
CORAL PATTERN, see _Stitches in Needlework_
COT for Infants, 43
—— or Hammock, 198
COTTONS, to Clean, see _Receipts_
—— Sewing, how to keep, 1
—— —— how worked, ib.
COVERS, CASES, &c., 208
COUNTERPANES, see _Upholstery_
COURT PLAISTER, to make, see _Receipts_
COVERLETS, see _Upholstery_
CRACK, on mending one, 4
CRAPE, see _On Purchasing Goods_
CRADLE, 42
CRAVAT, 147
CRIB, 42
CROSSWISE, how to Cut, 14
CURTAINS, see _Upholstery_
—— Moreen to Clean, see _Receipts_
CUFFS, Tidy, 75
—— Morning, ib.
—— Satin, ib.
—— Dress, ib.
—— Double, 76
—— Mourning, ib.
—— Muslin, ib.
—— Mourning, ib.
—— another Shape, ib.
CUTTING OUT, General Rules, 14
CUTTING OUT Dresses, 107
DARNING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
DINNER NAPKINS, 179
DIVAN, see _Upholstery_
DOUBLE HERRING-BONING, 9
DOWN, see _Fur_, 175
DRAWERS, see _Trowsers_, 50
—— Women’s, 53
—— Women’s, ib.
—— Men’s, 54
DRAPERY, see _Upholstery_
DRESSES, see _Gowns_, 106
—— see _Frocks_, 32
DRESSING-GOWNS, Men’s, 68
—— —— Plain, ib.
—— —— Cloak, 70
—— —— Ladies’, 69
—— Jacket, 70
—— Case, or Tidy for Travelling, 208
DRESSER CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
DUSTERS, see _House Linen_
DOYLEYS, ib.
DYE Cotton Nankeen, see _Receipts_
—— Furniture, ib.
—— Gloves, ib.
EAU DE COLOGNE, see _Receipts_
FANCY BOBBIN EDGING, see _Stitches on Needlework_
—— Button-hole Stitch, ib.
—— Chain-stitch, ib.
—— Herring-bone Stitch, ib.
FIANCEE, or Neck Tie, 79
FLANNEL, see _On Purchasing Goods_
—— Scouring, see _Upholstery_
FLANNEL, Petticoats, Women’s, 72
—— —— Small Size, ib.
—— —— Girl’s Large Size, ib.
—— —— Smaller, ib.
—— —— Ten years old, ib.
—— —— Six years old, ib.
FLEAS, to Destroy, see _Receipts_
FLIES, to Destroy, see _Receipts_
FLOUNCES, Rules for Cutting, 14
FOOTSTOOLS, see _Upholstery_
FRENCH POLISH, see _Receipts_
FRILLS, 74
—— General Rules for Cutting, 14
—— Simple, ib.
—— Neat, ib.
—— Crimped, ib.
—— For Children, ib.
—— Dress, ib.
—— Otherwise called Ruche, ib.
FROCKS, Infant’s, see _Baby Linen_
—— Child’s simple, 114
—— —— full, ib.
—— —— simple, three-quarters, 115
—— —— plain, ib.
—— —— full, 116
—— —— Morning, ib.
—— —— for a Boy, ib.
—— —— jean tunic, 117
—— —— surtout, ib.
FRONT for Shirts, 147
FUNERAL, articles worn at, 123
FUR AND DOWN, 175
—— Muff, 176
—— Boa, ib.
—— Tippet, 177
—— Opera, ib.
—— How to clean, ib.
—— To clean Down, ib.
—— How to Preserve, see _Receipts_, 177
FURNITURE, Hints on Buying, see _Receipts_
GAGING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
GATHERING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
GAUFERING, see _On Washing_
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON NEEDLEWORK, 1
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BABY LINEN, 17
—— —— ON COMPLETING WORK, 10
—— —— ON CUTTING OUT, 14
—— —— ON GENTLEMAN’S WARDROBE, 121
—— —— ON LADY’S WARDROBE, 119
—— —— ON LINEN PRESS, 187
—— —— ON NEEDLEWORK, 1
—— —— ON PURCHASING WORK, 11
—— —— ON PACKING, 121
GENERAL RULES FOR COMPLETING WORK, 10
GERMAN HEMMING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
GINGHAMS, see _On Purchasing Goods_
GLOVES, 175
—— to Wash, see _Receipts_
—— to Clean, ib.
—— to Dye, ib.
—— Cases, 209
GLUE, How to make, see _Receipts_
GOWNS, 106
—— General Observations on, ib.
—— On Cutting out, 197
—— Side pieces, 108
—— Back Shoulder-pieces, ib.
—— Shoulder straps, ib.
—— Skirts, 109
—— Plain high body, ib.
—— Full French body, ib.
—— Wrapping high body, 110
—— High, to open in front, ib.
—— Another pattern, 111
—— Plain low body, ib.
—— Another French low front, ib.
—— Trimming low bodies, ib.
—— French low full body, 112
—— Grecian low body, ib.
—— A simple low body, 113
—— Full low body, ib.
—— Select dresses, ib.
—— Nursing, ib.
—— Bathing, 61
GOWN, Clergyman’s, 148
—— Clerk’s, 150
GRAVE CLOTHES, 124
GREASE, to Remove, see _Receipts_
GUSSETS, to Cut, 14
HAM AND BACON BAGS, see _House Linen_
HATS AND CAPS, 153
HAT LININGS, 14
HAT-BANDS, 123
HABIT-SHIRTS, 99
HEAVY PINCUSHIONS, 15
HEMMING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
HERRING-BONEING, ib.
HONEY-COMBING, ib.
HOOD, Oiled Silk, 162
HORSE-SHOE STITCH, see _Stitches on Needlework_
HOUSE LINEN, 178
—— —— Bed-Room Linen, ib.
—— —— —— —— Sheets, 181
—— —— —— —— Pillow Cases, 183
—— —— —— —— Towels, ib.
—— —— —— —— Toilet Covers, ib.
—— —— —— —— Pincushions, ib.
—— —— Table Linen, 179
—— —— —— —— Table Cloths, 183
—— —— —— —— Dinner Napkins, ib.
—— —— —— —— —— how to fold, ib.
—— —— —— —— Doyleys, 184
—— —— —— —— Large Tray Napkins, 179
—— —— —— —— Small ditto ditto, ib.
—— —— Pantry Linen, ib.
—— —— —— —— Knife-box Cloths, 184
—— —— —— —— —— Pantry Cloths, ib.
—— —— —— —— Dresser Cloths, ib.
—— —— —— —— Plate-basket Cloths, ib.
—— —— —— China Cloths, ib.
—— —— —— Glass Cloths, ib.
—— —— —— Lamp Clothes, 185
—— —— —— Aprons, ib.
—— —— —— Waiting Gloves, ib.
—— —— House-maids’ Linen, 180
—— —— —— House Dusters, 185
—— —— —— Scouring Flannel, ib.
—— —— —— Paint Cloths, ib.
—— —— —— Chamber Bottle do., ib.
—— —— —— —— bucket do., ib.
—— —— —— Clothes Bags, ib.
—— —— —— Pinafores, 185
—— —— Kitchen Linen, 180
—— —— —— Table Cloths, 186
—— —— —— Dresser Cloths, ib.
—— —— —— Cooking Cloths, 180
—— —— —— Roller Towels, 180, 186
—— —— —— Dusters, ib. ib.
—— —— —— Tea Cloths, ib. ib.
—— —— —— Knife Cloths, ib. ib.
—— —— —— Pudding Cloths, ib. ib.
—— —— —— Jelly Bags, ib. ib.
—— —— —— Ham and Bacon Bags, ib. ib
—— —— —— Cheese Cloths, ib. ib.
—— —— Stable Linen, 180
—— —— —— Carriage Cloths, ib.
—— —— —— Paint Cloths, ib.
—— —— —— Flannels, ib.
—— —— —— Saddle-Cases, ib.
—— —— General Observations, ib.
—— ——, Remarks, 180
HOUSEWIFE, 212
INFANT’S WARDROBE, 16
IMITATION OF MAPLE WOOD, see _Receipts_
INDIA RUBBER VARNISH, ib.
INK, Marking, to Make, ib.
—— —— to Remove Spots of, ib.
IRON-MOULDS, to Remove, ib.
JACKET, Woman’s Night, 55
—— —— Dressing, 70
JELLY BAGS, see _House Linen_
KNIFE AND FORK CASE, 211
KNITTING, see _separate Index_
LADDER, on taking up, 4
LAMP CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
LAPPETS, 129
LAVENDER WATER, to Make, see _Receipts_
LAWN, see _On Purchasing Goods_
LENDING LINEN, for the Poor, 17
LEGGETS, 52
LINEN, see _On Purchasing Goods_
LINEN, Baby, 16
—— Men and Women’s, 46
—— House, 178
—— Press, 187
LININGS, 14
MANTUA-MAKER’S HEM, see _Stitches in Needlework_
MARKING, ib.
MANTELET, 164
MAT, 210
MATTRESSES, see _Upholstery_
MENDING A CRACK, 4
MILDEW, to remove, see _Receipts_
MODESTY, 102
MOURNING, 122
MUFF, 176
NAPKINS, Infants, see _Baby Linen_
—— Dinner, see _House Linen_
NEEDLES, How to keep, 1
NEEDLE CASE, 15 & 213
NEEDLEWORK, Observations on, 1
NECK-TIE, 79
NECK HANDKERCHIEF, 169
NIGHT-JACKET, 55
—— Gown, 56
—— Another pattern, 57
—— —— Gored, ib.
NIGHT-GOWN BAG, 208
—— Chair, 45
NOSEGAY CASE, 212
NURSERY BAG, 210
OPERA, or Ruff, see _Fur_, 177
PACKING, Directions for, 120
PAINT Cloths, see _House Linen_
—— Spots, to remove, see _Receipts_
PELERINES, see _Collars_, 100
—— long, 101
—— —— Frill for, ib.
—— Morning, 100
—— Handsome, 193
PELISSE, Baby’s, see _Baby Linen_
—— Child’s, 118
PETTICOATS, Flannel, 72
—— Calico, &c., 104
—— Skirts for, ib.
—— Bodies or waists, ib.
—— Nursing, 105
—— Pieces, fulled in bands, how to cut, 15
PILLOWS, see _Upholstery_
PILLOW CASES, see _House Linen_
PINAFORES and Saccarines, 130
—— Child’s Surtout, ib.
—— —— Close or Smock-Frock, 131
—— —— Large sized, 132
—— —— —— for Boys, ib.
—— —— Saccarines, 133
—— Housemaid’s, 134 & 180
—— School Girl’s, 135
—— Child’s, 135
—— Surgeon’s, ib.
—— Waggoner’s Smock, 136
PINCUSHIONS, Nursery, see _Baby Linen_
—— heavy, 15
—— other sorts, 213
—— covers, see _House Linen_
PIPING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
—— how to cut, 14
PITCH and Oil spots to remove, see _Receipts_
PLAITING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
PLATE-BASKET BAG, see _House Linen_
PLATTING, see _Straw Work_
POCKETS, 73
—— for Aprons, 78
—— Watch, 216
—— Handkerchiefs, 170
—— —— Case, 209
PORTFOLIO for a Carriage, 215
—— for travelling, ib.
POWDER for Infant’s Dust bags see _Receipts_
POT-POURRI, ib.
PRESERVE Linen, Woollen, Furs, &c., ib.
PREPARE Rabbit Skins, ib.
PRINTS, see _On Purchasing Goods_
PUDDING CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
PUFFING, see _Stitches in Needle-Work_
PURCHASING GOODS, 11
—— —— Blue Checks, 12
—— —— Calico, ib.
—— —— Cambric, ib.
—— —— Cloth, 13
—— —— Crape, 13
—— —— Flannels, ib.
—— —— Lawn, 12
—— —— Linen, ib.
—— —— Muslin Checks, ib.
—— —— Prints, Chintzes, &c., 13
—— —— Satins, ib.
—— —— Silks, ib.
—— —— Stuffs, ib.
QUILTING, see _Stitches in Needle-Work_
RAISE THE SURFACE OF VELVET, see _Receipts_
RECEIVER, see _Baby Linen_
RECEIPTS, 217
—— Balls to remove Grease, 229
—— Another Receipt, ib.
—— Bleaching Liquid, 218
—— Bleach Wool, 229
—— Bleach Yellow Linen, 223
—— Blonde to Wash, 223
—— —— Town Washed, 223
—— —— Wool, 229
—— Brass Ornaments to keep, 233
—— Bugs to prevent, 227
—— Bugs to destroy, ib.
—— Carpets to scour, 222
—— Clean Bombazine, 221
—— —— Brass Ornaments, 233
—— —— Cotton Silk, Woollen, 229
—— —— —— —— —— 221
—— —— Chintz, 222
—— —— Curtains, Moreen, 229
—— —— Calico Furniture, 222
—— —— Gold and Silver Lace, 225
—— —— Hair Brushes, 234
—— —— Kid Gloves, 234, 224
—— —— Paint, 230
—— —— Satin Shoes, 224
—— —— Sponges, 232
—— Cloth to make Waterproof, 228
—— Court Plaister, to make, 226
—— Dye Cotton and Nankeen, 224
—— —— Furniture buff, ib.
—— —— —— pink, 225
—— —— —— blue, ib.
—— Leather (wash for), 224
—— —— Gloves like tan, ib.
—— —— —— purple, ib.
—— Eau de Cologne, 226
—— Fleas, to destroy, 227
—— Flies, to destroy, ib.
—— French polish for Furniture, 233
—— —— —— Boots and Harness, 228
—— Fur, to preserve, 225
—— Furniture, hints on buying, 230
—— Grease to remove from Silk, 220
—— Another Receipt, ib.
—— —— from Silk or Woollen, ib.
—— —— from Linen, 229 & ib.
—— Glue to make, 232
—— Imitation of Maple wood, 233
—— Indian Rubber Varnish, 231
—— Ink, permanent marking, 217
—— —— red marking, ib.
—— —— to remove spots of, ib.
—— —— to remove, common, 218
—— —— from Cloth, &c., ib.
—— —— Iron-moulds, to remove, 222
—— —— Lavender water to make, 226
—— Mildew to take out, 221
—— Paint spots, to remove, ib.
—— Pitch and Oil spots to remove, 220
—— Powder for Infant’s dust bags, 226
—— Pot-pourri, ib.
—— —— quicker sort, ib.
—— Prepare Rabbit skins, 227
—— Preserve Linen from Moths, 225
—— —— Woollens and Blankets, ib.
—— —— Furs, ib.
—— —— Blonde, Satin, &c., 224
—— —— Gilt Frames, 228
—— Raise the Surface of Velvet, 226
—— Restore rusty Silk, 221
—— —— Scorched Linen, 222
—— Revive Gilt Frames, 228
—— Another Method, ib.
—— Salts of Lemon, to make, 218
—— Scent Bags, 226
—-— Scouring Drops to make, 220
—— Another kind, 233
—— —— —— Cheap, ib.
—— Shoes to make Waterproof, 226
—— Stains to remove, from acids, 219
—— —— Another Receipt, ib.
—— —— Fruit or Wine, ib.
—— —— Port Wine, ib.
—— —— Out of Scarlet Cloth, ib.
—— —— Black Cloth, Silk, &c., ib.
—— Starch, to Make, 226
—— Varnish old Straw Hats, 225
—— Wash black Silk or Crape, 223
—— —— Silk Handkerchiefs, 222
—— —— coloured Prints, Muslins, 223
—— —— Blonde, ib.
—— —— Lace, 224
—— —— Kid Gloves, 224 & 234
—— —— Leather Gloves, 224
—— —— Silk Dresses, 230
—— Waterproof, to make Shoes, 226 & 228
—— —— to make Cloth, 228
RESTORE RUSTY SILK, see _Receipts_
—— Scorched linen, ib.
ROBES, Infant’s, see _Baby Linen_
ROLLER CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
ROQUELAURE, 164
ROSETTE, see _Baby Linen_
ROULEAUS, 8
RUCHE, 74
RUNNING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
SACCARINE, see _Pinafore_
SATCHEL, or Card Case, 212
SALTS OF LEMON, see _Receipts_
SASH, or Badge, 149
SATIN, see _On Purchasing Goods_
SCARFS, Clergyman’s, 149
—— Dress, or Caprice, 80
—— Cashmere, ib.
—— Simple, ib.
SCENT BAGS, see _Receipts_
SCISSORS, Remarks upon, 1 & 15
SCOURING FLANNEL, 180
—— Drops, see _Receipts_
SCREENS, see _Upholstery_
SEAMAN’S CASE, 215
SENTIMENT, or Neck Tie, 79
SERPENTINE STITCH, see _Stitches in Needlework_
SEWING SILKS, How kept, 1
SEWING and Felling, see _Stitches in Needlework_
SHOULDER Pieces, or Stays, how cut, 15
SHIFTS Gored, 46
—— Not hollowed, 47
—— Crossed, 48
—— Child’s ... ib.
—— To save a seam and two fells, 49
SHIRTS, Infant’s see _Baby Linen_
—— For Labouring Men, 137
—— Scales for, 139
—— On making up, 141
—— Gentlemen’s, 142
—— —— Fronts, 143
—— Young Child’s Front, ib.
—— A Boy’s Front, ib.
—— An older Boy’s Front, ib.
—— Another, ib.
—— A Gentleman’s Front, ib.
—— Another, 144
—— Shoulder-Strap, ib.
—— Child’s Shoulder-Strap, ib.
—— Sleeves, ib.
—— Wristbands, 145
—— Binders and Linings, ib.
—— Collars, ib.
—— Boy’s Collars, 146
—— Men’s Collars, ib.
SHAWLS, Infant’s, see _Baby Linen_
—— Carriage, 166
—— Walking, ib.
—— For a Member of the Society of Friends, ib.
—— Quilted, ib.
—— Cashmere, ib.
—— Mourning, 167
—— Plain walking, ib.
—— Travelling, ib.
SHEETS, see _House Linen_
SHOES, SLIPPERS, 171
—— —— Men’s, ib.
—— —— Ladies’, ib.
—— —— Quilted, 172
—— —— Ladies’, ib.
—— —— Half, 173
—— —— Carriage, ib.
—— —— Infants’ first, ib.
—— —— —— second, ib.
—— —— —— Ticking, 174
—— To Cover, ib.
—— To Clean, see _Receipts_
—— Bags 186
SHOULDER-PIECES, 91
—— —— For Woman’s Cloak, 92
—— —— For a Child’s Cloak, ib. & 93
—— —— —— Woman’s Cloak, ib.
—— —— —— Infant’s Cloak, 93
SHROUD, 124
SILK, see _On Purchasing Goods_
—— sewing, how to keep, 1
SLEEVES, Infant’s first, see _Baby Linen_
—— General Rules, 15
—— Child’s first, 85
—— Older Child’s, ib.
—— Long, 86
—— Circular, ib.
—— Plain long, 87
—— Full, ib.
—— Another, ib.
—— Small, 88
—— Old Woman’s, ib.
—— Boy’s, ib.
—— Woman’s large, ib.
—— —— short, 89
—— —— short, 90
—— —— circular, ib.
—— —— tight, ib.
—— On lining, 6
SLIPS, or Pillow Cases, 182
SOFA, see _Upholstery_
SPENCERS, Plain, 167
—— Dress, 168
STARCH, to make, see _Receipts_
STAYS, or Corsets, 80
—— —— materials for, 81
—— —— making up, ib.
—— Woman’s, ib.
—— —— gores for, 82
—— —— shoulder straps, ib.
—— —— lace-holes, ib.
—— —— modesty-piece, ib.
—— —— nursing, ib.
—— Men’s, 83
—— Coachmen’s, ib.
—— Hunter’s, ib.
—— Child’s small, ib.
—— —— large, ib.
—— —— first, see _Baby Linen_
STAINS, to remove, see _Receipts_
—— —— from acids, ib.
—— —— from fruit or wine, ib.
—— —— from Port wine, ib.
—— —— out of scarlet cloth, ib.
—— —— out of black cloth, ib.
STEEL, How to keep, 1
STITCHES IN NEEDLEWORK, 1
—— Angular stitch, 9
—— Biassing, 6
—— Binding, 7
—— Braiding, 6
—— Button-holes, 3
—— Chain-stitch, 8
—— Coral pattern, 10
—— Darning, 4
—— Double gathering, 2
—— Fancy Chain-stitch, 8
—— Fancy Bobbin-stitch, 9
—— Fancy Herring-boning, ib.
—— Fancy Button-hole stitch, 10
—— Gaging, 7
—— Gathering, 2
—— German hemming, 3
—— Hemming, 1
—— Herring-boning, 4
—— Honey-combing, 7
—— Horseshoe-stitch, 10
—— Mantua-maker’s hem, 2
—— Marking, 5
—— Quilting, 7
—— Running, 2
—— Serpentine stitch, 9
—— Sewing and felling, 2
—— Stitching, ib.
—— Whipping, 3
STOCKS, 147
STRAW PLATTING, see _Separate Index_
STUFFS, see _On Purchasing Goods_
SUCK, to Baby’s bottle, 45
SURPLICE, 149
SURTOUT, 117
TABLE CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
TABLE COVERS, see _Upholstery_
TAPES, How to keep, 1
TEA CLOTHS, see _House Linen_
THIMBLE, Remarks upon, 1
THREAD, How to strengthen, 1
—— How to keep, ib.
TIPPETS, see _Collars_
—— School Girl’s, 99
—— Another, 104
—— Another, 168
TOILET Covers, see _House Linen_
TOWELS, see _House Linen_
TRAVELLING DRESSING-CASE, 215
—— Portfolio, ib.
—— Bag, 214
TROWSERS, Child’s, 50
—— —— larger, 51
—— Girl’s, ib.
—— Boy or Girl’s, 52
—— Turkish, 54
—— For a little Boy, ib.
TRUNK CASE, 211
TUCKS, Making, 5
TUCKER, 97
TUNICS, see _Frocks_
UPHOLSTERY, 190
—— Arm chair Covers, 206
—— Bedsteads, 190
—— —— Hints on putting up, 191
—— —— On Drapery, 193
—— —— On Heads and tops, 195
—— —— On Footboards, ib.
—— —— On furnishing, 4 posts, 193
—— —— On Prices, 199
—— —— On Coverlets, 200
—— —— On Blankets, ib.
—— Beds, the Tent, 191 195
—— —— Camp, ib. ib.
—— —— Half-tester, ib, 196
—— —— French Pole, ib. ib.
—— —— French Arrow, ib. ib.
—— —— French, ib. ib.
—— —— French Block, ib. ib.
—— —— French Canopy, ib, 197
—— —— Turn-up, ib. ib.
—— —— Press, ib. ib.
—— —— Stump, ib. ib.
—— —— Trestle, ib. ib.
—— —— Hanging, or Cot, 198
—— Mattress, ib.
—— Beds, 199
—— Bolsters, ib.
—— Pillows, ib.
—— Blinds, window, 206
—— Chair, Sofa &c. covers, ib.
—— Carpets, 201
—— Curtains, window, 203
—— —— Muslin, 205
—— —— Little Half, ib.
—— —— Full, ib.
—— —— Rod, ib.
—— Church Basses, 207
—— Church Seats, ib.
—— Divan, 206
—— Footstools and Hassocks, 207
—— Screens, ib.
—— Sofa, 206
—— Table Covers, 207
—— Watch-pockets, 201
VARNISH, old Straw Hats, see _Receipts_
VEILS, common, 84
—— Crape, ib.
—— Demi-voile, ib.
—— Mourning, ib.
—— Riding, ib.
—— Tulle, ib.
VELVET, Dress, 113
—— Cap, 130
—— To raise the Surface of, see _Receipts_
VEST, Boy’s, 60
—— Night, 61
—— Day, ib.
WAISTCOAT, Lady’s Flannel, 58
—— Boy’s, ib.
—— —— Invalid, 59
—— Man’s under, ib.
—— Boy’s upper, 60
—— Child’s, see _Vest_
WAITING GLOVES, see _House Linen_
WASHING BOOKS, for Nursery, 188
—— —— Ladies’, 189
—— —— Gentlemen’s, ib.
—— —— House Linen, 190
WASHING AND IRONING, 234
—— Articles used in the Wash-house, ib.
—— —— —— —— Laundry, 235
—— Clear Starching, 236
—— Gaufiering, 237
—— Hanging to dry, 236
—— Ironing, Mangling, 235
WASH, Black Silk or Crape, see _Receipts_
—— Silk Handkerchiefs, ib.
—— Coloured Prints, &c., ib.
—— Lace, ib.
—— Blonde, ib.
—— Kid Gloves, ib.
—— Silk Dresses, ib.
WATCH POCKET, see _Upholstery_, 216
—— —— Another, ib.
WATERPROOF, see _Receipts_
—— Shoes and Boots, ib.
WHIPPING, see _Stitches in Needlework_
WORK-BOX, 15
—— Basket, 214
YARD MEASURE, 213
ON KNITTING.
Page
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 237
KNITTING PINS ib.
MATERIALS FOR KNITTING ib.
ON KNITTING STITCHES 238
—— —— Binding, 240
—— —— Casting on stitches, 238
—— —— Common knitting stitch, 239
—— —— Dutch common stitch, ib.
—— —— Finishing off, ib.
—— —— Narrowing, ib.
—— —— Slipping a stitch, ib.
—— —— Turns for stitches, 240
—— —— Turn or seam stitch, 239
—— —— Welting, 240
—— —— Widening, 239
FANCY STITCHES, 240
—— —— Berlin wire or insertion, ib.
—— —— Chain stitch, ib.
—— —— —— —— two coloured, ib.
—— —— Cross-stitch pattern, ib.
—— —— —— —— Open, ib.
—— —— Crowsfoot stitch, ib.
—— —— Curb stitch, ib.
—— —— Diamond stitch, ib.
—— —— —— —— Embossed, ib.
—— —— Double knitting, ib.
—— —— Another kind, ib.
—— —— Another kind, ib.
—— —— —— Imitation, ib.
—— —— Fantail stitch, ib.
—— —— French stitch, ib.
—— —— —— Raised, ib.
—— —— Hem open, ib.
—— —— Herring-bone stitch, ib.
—— —— Another kind, ib.
—— —— Hexagon embossed, ib.
—— —— Honey-comb, ib.
—— —— Huckaback, or rough-cast, ib.
—— —— Lace wave stitch, ib.
—— —— Ladder, ornamental, ib.
—— —— Muffatee stitch, new, 240
—— —— Network, imitation, 244
—— —— New stitch, ib.
—— —— Nondescript, ib.
—— —— Open stitch, plain, ib.
—— —— —— —— Improved, ib.
—— —— Plat, common, ib.
—— —— Purse stitch, ib.
—— —— Rib-stitch, elastic, ib.
—— Two colours, ib.
—— —— Rug stitch, ib.
—— —— Shawl stitch, ib.
FRINGES KNIT, ib.
—— —— Plain, ib.
—— —— Beautiful on border, ib.
—— —— Very pretty, ib
—— —— For a Shawl, ib.
—— —— For Curtains, ib.
ARMLET, 262
BAGS, 270
BLANKETS, 271
BONNET, or hood, 269
BOA or ruff, spiral knit, 276
BOSOM FRIEND, 275
BOOT, ribbed, 257
—— For infants, 258
—— Night, ib.
—— Square night, 260
—— Derby jail, 259
BORDER AND CORNER, handsome for Shawl, 272
BRAID, open, 270
BRACES, for Gentlemen, 275
CAP, Infant’s, 268
—— Another, ib.
—— Gentleman‘s night, 269
—— Gentleman’s silk travelling, 273
—— Travelling knit silk,
—— Knee, 260
—— Swiss, 276
COMFORTER, 264
—— Another, 264
—— Another, ib.
COVERLET, 271
DOYLEYS, Cotton, ib.
—— —— Other sorts, ib.
FLOWER STAND COVERS, 278
FRILL, 263
GARTERS, 255
GLOVES, Large size, 261
HABIT-SHIRT, 264
HANDKERCHIEF, ib.
—— Small half, 265
HEEL, to wear in snow, 258
HOOD, or Bonnet for a baby, 269
KETTLE HOLDERS, 270
LIGHT SCARF, 277
MATS, 270
—— Another kind, 271
MITTENS, 261
—— For driving in, ib.
—— For Infants, ib.
MUFFATEES, 264
—— Another kind, ib.
—— Another kind, ib.
—— Another kind, ib.
NAPKIN RINGS, 275
PETTICOAT, for a child, 274
PEN WIPER, 278
RETICULE BAG, 273
RINGS, for dinner napkins, 275
RUFF, 263
SCARF, ib.
—— Light, 277
—— Another, 263
SHOE, over, 258
—— Another pretty kind, 258
SLIPPERS, Infant’s, 256
SNOW HEELS, 258
SOCKS, Night, 259
—— For invalids, ib.
—— For infants, 255
—— For grown-up persons, ib.
—— Child’s long, 257
—— Child’s improved, 277
—— Neat night, 260
—— Several kinds, 256
—— Another sort, 255
SOFA, Foot warmer, 273
—— Shawl for Invalids, 275
SOLE, For inside of Shoe, 260
STAYS For Children, 274
STOCKINGS, 253
—— Proportions for, ib.
—— Scales for, 254
—— Child’s first, 257
SHAWL, For a Baby, 268
—— For a Sofa, 275
—— Honey-Comb, 265
—— Fantail border and corners, 272
SPIRAL Boa or Ruff, 276
SWISS CAP, 276
TIPPET, 266
PURSE, ib.
—— Another, 267
—— Another, ib.
—— Another, ib.
—— Another very pretty, ib.
WATCH GUARD, Silk, 274
ZEPHYR, or Baby’s Shawl, 268
ZEPHYRINE, or Soft Bonnet, 267
ON STRAW PLATTING.
Page
STRAW PLATTING, 278
—— —— General Observations, ib.
BLEACHING BOX, 279
BONNET STAND, 280
BOX IRON, 280
MILL FOR ROLLING THE PLAT, 279
STRAW SPLITTER, 281
STRAW, on Preparing, ib.
—— on Bleaching, ib.
—— on Dyeing Black, ib.
—— Another Black Dye, 282
TIN DYEING KETTLE, 280
DIRECTIONS FOR PLATTING, 282
PLATS IN GENERAL USE, 283
—— —— of 3, ib.
—— —— Another, 284
—— —— of 4, ib.
—— —— Angular 4, ib.
—— —— of 5, ib.
—— —— of 6, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— of 7, 285
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— of 8, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— of 9, ib.
—— —— Another, 285
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— of 10, 286
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— of 11, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— of 12, ib.
—— —— of 13, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— Another, 287
—— —— of 14, ib.
—— —— of 15, ib.
—— —— Another, ib.
—— —— of 16, ib.
HOLLOW SPIRAL PLAT, ib.
ARTICLES MADE OF STRAW PLAT, 288
BONNETS, 289
—— On cleaning, ib.
—— On turning, 290
HATS, ib.
—— Tuscan, 287
LEGHORN, English imitation, 288
MATS, 290
STIFFENING, 289
—— Made of Vellum, ib.
—— —— of Bone-dust, ib.
THOMAS EVANS, PRINTER, 30, COLMORE ROW, BIRMINGHAM.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75494 ***